FTL Knots
Web version by J. Dalton – 1995-1999
Condensed version by B. Rogers – 2002
The Sheet-Bend:
First take the larger
diameter rope and
make a bend as
shown (left)
Pass the smaller
rope throught the
bend and around
the back (right)
Then pass the
smaller rope
under itself so
that tension
can lock it
down (left)
The finished
knot (right)
This knot in theory should be used to tie together two ropes of different thicknesses as shown.
However, experience shows that there are better knots for that purpose.
The Frost Knot:
First place one end of webbing within a
bend in the other end. NB: the diferent
colors here are to illustrate technique,
this knot is most often tied with one
length of webbing (left).
Tie an overhand (see FTM knots) with
the folded ends (right).
This will result in a loop
with the short free end
inside it (left).
The frost knot is used to tie an etrier (ay-tree-ay). A completed etrier is pictured above.
The Butterfly Knot:
Start by taking a section
in the middle of the rope
and making two loops,
one big, one small (left).
Fold the large loop down
over the smaller one
(right).
Pull the large loop throught
the small loop from
underneath (left).
The finished knot (right).
This knot is used to put a loop in the middle of a rope. This knot does not decrease the linear
strength of the rope nearly as much as other similar knots.
The One-Way Knot:
Start with a figure-8 in one end of
one rope (left).
Follow it through with the end of
another rope (right).
The finished knot.
This knot ties two ropes together in such a way that they will pass through a pulley in one
direction. This knot will only pass through a pulley in one direction because of the short tails
which come out of the same side. FYI you will still need a knot passing pulley to make this
work, and this knot is not as strong as a barrell knot.
The Bowline on a Coil:
Start with 15 or so
feet of the belay line
wrapped around
your torso with
about 3 feet left over
(left).
Create a loop in the
long end of the line,
just like you would
for the regular
bowline (right).
Use the short piece on
the other side of the
wraps to finish off the
bowline (left).
The finished knot
(right).
This was often used long ago as an impromptu harness. this is not recommended today because
of the availablity of pre-fabricated harnesses and the ability to tie a much better harness from 1
inch tubular webbing. If none of those are available, however, this method is preferable to a
single loop around the body because it distributes the weight much more across all those wraps.
The Load-Releasing Hitch:
Start by
creating a long
sling out of
webbing with a
water knot.
Clip one end
into the line to
be tensioned,
and have a
carabiner
attached to your
anchor about a
foot and 1/2
away (left-top).
Make an "X" in
the loop where
you want to
start the hitch
(left-bottom).
Clip the anchor carabiner into the "X" as shown. This is very important to get
right. If this is done incorrectly, the system could be very dangerous to use. Clip
across the "X" in line with the system (left-below).
Now bring the long remaining end of the loop up toward the hitch and through the
lowering line's carabiner, then back through the anchor carabiner as shown (rightbelow).
Now begin wrapping the remaining webbing around the
system to create the friction that will allow you to release a
heavy load (left).
When you reach the top, use a third carabiner to clip the
loose end to the lowering line's carabiner to finish (below).
To be used in a haul system or
vertical lowering to release tension
after a fall or arrest.
The Cross-Chest Harness:
Start by measuring out two lengths from your outstretched hand to
the opposite shoulder (left).
Tie a water knot in the webbing at that point to form a loop. Put
your arms through the loop... (right).
Making an "X"
in the back (left).
Clip a carabiner
in to complete
the harness
(right).
This is a way to make a fast and easy chest harness if you are top heavy due to a backpack, etc.
The Münter Hitch:
With your rappel line set
up, grap the line with your
thumb down as shown
(left).
Bringing your thumb
toward you and flipping
your hand over will give
you a loop like this one
(right).
Now without letting go
of the loop, grab the
rappel line above the
loop (left).
Clip your carabiner
around the two sections
you are holding by
clipping from the back of
your hand to the front
(right).
Grab the carabiner and pull
down to pop the hitch
through the carabiner (left).
And you're ready to clip in
and go (right).
A quick and neat rappell/belay device that provides lots of friction. Excellent backup, does put
alot of twist in the rope though.