Bedfordshire Ghosts Introduction This is a selection of the many tales of ghostly activity and supernatural occurrences associated with Bedfordshire as recorded in books, newspaper cuttings, pamphlets and other materials in Bedford Central Library, Local Studies Collection. The stories included in Bedfordshire Ghosts are based on eyewitness reports or legends that have been passed down through the ages, as a result they are all open to interpretation and it is up to the reader to judge the true factual nature of these tales. Front cover image: detail of St. Mary’s Church, Clophill. © Bedfordshire Libraries, 2006 2 Contents Page No. Animals 4 Cinemas 6 Highway men 7 Historic buildings and locations 8 Holy places 11 Hospitals 13 Museums 14 Pubs 15 Roads and lanes 18 Miscellaneous 21 Bibliography 22 Index 23 3 Animals The world of the supernatural is very various and it comes as no surprise that ghosts, ghouls or apparitions can appear in all shapes and sizes - even animals - and it seems that Bedfordshire is rich in such sightings. A member of staff at the Bedford pub The Bullnosed Bat, now known as The Square, reported seeing a ghostly cat appearing in his bedroom, an unnerving sight considering the doors and the windows were locked. However this was a mild occurrence when you consider the frequent reports of Bedfordshire’s own Demonic Dog, or a “Shuck” as it is known in the general folklore of this country. Black Shuck is a common term for apparitions of dogs which occur in East Anglia. The name Shuck is believed to originate from two sources - as a deviation of Shukir, who was the dog of war in Norse mythology, and Scucca, from the Anglo-Saxon meaning demon. Considering the terrifying descriptions of Shuck that have been recorded, both these definitions are apt. The favoured haunting places of such beasts are believed to be lanes, graveyards and gallows sites. Luton’s own gallows site – Galley Hill – was the location of a demonic dog sighting in the 18th century. A fierce storm descended on the town which resulted in the gallows being struck by lighting and catching fire, the blaze spread creating an inferno which engulfed the site. At the heart of this nightmarish scene eyewitnesses reported seeing a large black dog seeming to dance in the flames in celebrant glee as the corpses of condemned criminals burnt. With the dying down of the fire the dog was heard to utter a piercing howl, and, as characteristic of other Shuck sightings throughout history, vanished! The dog was often seen in the same area after the event, blocking the paths and roads, its fierce red eyes confronting any traveller who dared to journey there. The paths of local villages have also seen appearances of hellhounds of similar description. Footpath number 4 in Kenworth, which runs between Common Road and Hollicks Lane, has hosted appearances by a ghostly one-eyed black retriever, and in Millbrook a dog “as big as a calf” with the glowing red eyes associated with Black Shuck was said to have terrorised a young woman to such an extent that she died three days after the encounter. Not all the reports of ghostly dogs in Bedfordshire have the same sinister air or appearance as the Shuck sightings. A lady was cycling from Pavenham when a large white dog suddenly appeared in front of her. Unable to stop her bike in time the cyclist actually passed through the animal. Ghostly animal manifestations are not just restricted to dogs. Eastfields Corner in Riseley was the setting for a strange encounter involving a seemingly supernatural horse. A local farmer was walking along the road when he heard the sound of a horse galloping towards him, yet no sign of the beast could be seen. The next instant the hedgerow crashed with the sound of something passing through it, and the farmer felt a rush of cold air as if something had just rushed past him. Again the sound was real, but the source of the noise was not visible. Phantom horses have also been recorded at Carlton Hill in Chellington. A cyclist was pushing her bicycle up the hill when she was confronted, much to her surprise, with two horses speeding down towards her. The cyclist quickly moved over to the 4 side to allow the horses to pass. Yet when the lady – fearing an accident because of the charging beasts – went back down the hill the horses had vanished leaving no trace. A similar sound of hooves has been heard along Sandhill Close in Millbrook. Such hooves have been attributed to the legendary highwayman Galloping Dick, whose hauntings will be described in a later section. 5 Cinemas We all love a good film. Enjoyable though a trip to the cinema can be, beyond the glitz, the special effects and popcorn, something sinister can stir in those dark screens… Though now demolished, Luton’s historic cinema The Alma had a string of supernatural occurrences attached to it. The building, on the corner of Alma Street and New Bedford Road, was said to be cursed due to ill feeling towards the project when people’s houses and cottages were knocked down to accommodate it. The cinema staff spoke of a strange atmosphere that permeated the rear of the building – an atmosphere of oppression and unease. The stairs in particular seemed to possess a dark intent – people felt that there was something on the stairs with them and a feeling of being followed. With the cinemas demolition in the 1960’s a disturbing artefact was found – that of a blood encrusted cap belonging to a workman who had allegedly fallen to his death during the building’s construction. Was it this workman’s spirit which was responsible for the uneasy atmosphere? Was he haunting the corridors of the very building where he spent his last hours? Luton’s current cinema, Cineworld, also has a haunted air. Both staff and customers have said that strange noises have been heard as well as inexplicable changes in temperature and shifting, unaccountable shadows. Bedford’s Cineworld cinema seems to attract its fair share of ghostly activity too, the majority of which seems to centre on Screen 4 and even the toilets near said screen. Several witnesses have reported seeing a monk or a hooded figure in both the foyer and the toilet. Indeed, one young girl claims to have seen a ghostly monk in the toilet mirror. A sight that terrified her so much that she locked herself in a cubicle! Screen 4 reportedly suffers from frequent temperature drops; strange scratching noises and the sound of jangling chains have been heard resonating through the space. There have also been a few accounts of ghostly activity manifesting itself in more physical ways – cleaners at the cinema have had apples and sweets thrown at them from an unknown source, customers have complained of the feeling of hands brushing against their legs as they sit watching a film, and seat 8 in row A refuses to stay upright no matter how many times it is adjusted by staff. The history of haunting in this area does not restrict itself to the cinema, before the multiplex Newnham Swimming Pool once stood on the site and that too had a history of supernatural activity, primarily involving the lockers, which would open and shut by themselves. With so much activity it is necessary to examine the causes. The ground where the cinema now stands was once Newnham Priory – an ancient wall still remains around the back of the Aspects Leisure Park – which could explain why monk-like or hooded phantoms have been seen. Construction workers also discovered a burial ground on the site. Have the dead, disturbed from their slumber, chosen to linger at the cinema? On a sadder note, a young man once hung himself from a tree in the grounds of the old priory on the exact spot where Screen 4 now stands. Could this be another source for the strange variety of happenings recorded at this most unlikely of haunted locations? 6 Highway Men Many lanes and roads of this county are rife with the tales and legends of highway men who plied their dreaded trade upon the rich and wealthy of the day. Although the time for such men has passed, it seems that their presence is still felt in the guise of apparitions and ghostly figures. One of the most notorious highway men in the history of Bedfordshire – both as a historical figure and as a ghostly entity – is Black Tom. So named for his dark complexion and hair, Black Tom terrorized Bedford with his unique brand of devilry before meeting his end at the gallows on Union Street in 1607. He was buried at the junction of Tavistock Street, Union Street and Clapham Road, with a stake driven into his heart to prevent his evil spirit remaining in this world. But, despite these methods, he did return, and terrified people began to witness his apparition stalking the area near his burial ground. The 1840’s saw a number of Black Tom sightings; the fear that they engendered caused many a soul to stay indoors at night. The last reported sighting of Black Tom came in 1963 when he was seen by several people staggering along Regent Street in Bedford. The apparition was black faced with a head displaced in such a way as to suggest hanging. If this sight wasn’t frightening enough, the witnesses watched in terror as the figure slowly faded and vanished. Another notorious Bedfordshire highway man was Galloping Dick, who was renowned for robbing the stagecoaches which travelled along the Woburn Road. Dick was a wretched figure who, because of his outlaw ways, lived by the sandpit on Millbrook Hill. The ghost of Dick has been attributed to eerie events in the picturesque village of Millbrook. Apart from the aforementioned sound of his steed’s hooves down Sandhill Close (see chapter on ghostly animals), Dick also haunts Station Road in the form of a headless horseman. The most notorious of highway men, the legendary Dick Turpin, also has connections with Bedfordshire, in particular with Aspley Guise and the Old Manor building. Around 1730 the owner of the manor is said to have murdered his daughter and her lover in a fit of rage after discovering them together. The father then concealed the bodies in a cellar cupboard. Turpin’s part in the tale begins when he and his gang arrived at the Manor to burgle the building, Turpin – expecting to find gold and silver in the locked cupboard – found the two bodies and blackmailed the guilt stricken father into letting him use the manor as an occasional hideaway. It is believed that Turpin is the ghost often seen around the building, complete with highwayman’s uniform of cloak and tricorn hat, skulking in the shadows, hiding from the law after a night of banditry on the Leicester Road. 7 Historic Buildings and Locations The eternal feature of any ghost story is the haunted house. Cobwebbed corridors and creaking floorboards are staple requirements of the world of the supernatural. While the majority of historic buildings can be awe inspiring due to their graceful architecture, such facades can also hide darker, mysterious histories waiting to be unearthed. Ampthill Castle was originally built in the fifteenth century and was situated on land now known as Ampthill Great Park (an historic site itself as it was designed by the genius "Capability" Brown). A commemorative cross to Henry VIII's wife Katherine of Aragon now marks the exact location of the castle. Although the castle has now gone, a residue of its former days is apparent in the ghost of a knight that has been sighted emerging from the area marked by the cross. Descriptions of the knight have varied throughout the years; some have witnessed a clearly visible armour clad figure riding a magnificent horse, whereas a policeman in 1965 witnessed a more vague shape - but a horseman none the less. The majority of accounts have testified to the figure vanishing near a stream. The ruinous structure of Houghton House (also in Ampthill) played host to a phantom horse and carriage that was distinctly heard but not seen. The building was originally built in 1615 for the Countess of Pembroke and is believed to have been the inspiration for the "House Beautiful" in Bedfordshire visionary John Bunyan's famous work The Pilgrim's Progress. It was in 1915, during the First World War, that a munitions worker was walking home when she heard a sound of hooves so intense she had to throw herself into a ditch for fear of being trampled. As she lay on the ground a thundering sound of hooves and jangling harnesses rushed past on the way to Houghton House, yet no great coach was visible to account for the din. A recent visit to the house by Bedfordshire author and paranormal writer Damien O'Dell featured several spirits and presences being detected by mediums. It would thus seem that the great house is infused with both history and spectres! The South Bedfordshire village of Barton-le-Clay is home to a mill site which has been in use since the Domesday Book. The area, now known as Waterside Mill, has two ghosts attributed to it. When the building was a restaurant, John Duggan had just locked up and was about to drive away when he noticed a beckoning figure at the window. Fearing that he had locked somebody in John returned but found nobody there. A thorough search of the premises yielded no other person. John had a similar encounter a week later; again he was about to drive away when his car headlights illuminated the window to reveal the beckoning figure. This time he managed to see that the figure was an elderly woman with long grey hair and incredibly bony hands. The second ghost has been heard but not seen. A visitor to the restaurant reported hearing a persistent baby crying, yet there were no children in the building to account for this. Flitwick Manor, a large Georgian building, now a hotel, is over three hundred years old. With such a vast span of history it is no surprise that supernatural activity has been reported there. One guest was awoken by something heavy on the end of the bed. However, after turning on the light, he found nothing there. A short time later the man went back to sleep. About fifteen minutes later, alerted by a strange shuffling noise that appeared to be coming from the foot of the bed, the guest turned the light on again and was met by the sight of a woman sitting at his feet and staring out of the window. After speaking to the spectre and getting no reply the man watched in amazement as the woman gradually disappeared. 8 The hotel receptionist also saw an elderly lady in one of the rooms; this lady also vacated the room mysteriously. The receptionist managed to describe the figure as wearing a long Victorian dress and a small white cap and, sadly, crying. This ghostly Victorian lady was also reported to have appeared to the family of the hotel’s original owners. The family were gathered together for Christmas when the lady entered the room and walked across it oblivious to what was going on around it. It is believed that this apparition could possibly be the wife of John Thomas Brooks. Mr Brooks and his family once lived in the manor and it was here that his daughter died unexpectedly at the age of 26 in 1848. John Brooks’ wife was believed to have never recovered from the shock of this death and lived the rest of her life as a sad figure, succumbing to senility in her old age. This story would certainly account for a forlorn lady staring out of the window or crying. Like Houghton House, the sound of a phantom horse and carriage has been heard at Kempston Manor, albeit with more sinister undertones. The manor is now offices but in the nineteenth century it would have been a busy family house. The story tells how one Christmas Eve the owners were returning from a ball and their young son ran out to meet the carriage and was knocked down and sadly killed. It is believed that every Christmas Eve the sound of the horse and carriage can be heard as well as the screams of the boy trampled by the hooves. Odell is the setting for a tale of the supposedly diabolic Sir Rowland Alston. The Odell family had their ancestral home on the site of Odell Castle - where they had lived for over 300 years - and the majority of the family members were pillars of community and well respected. Sir Rowland was the exception. Apparently a depraved and wicked man - his crimes included brawling, gambling, drunkenness and cavorting will ladies of ill repute - who had sold his soul to the devil, so the story goes. Rowland’s notoriety was such that even after death his presence still cast a black shroud over the village. His ghost was seen to walk through walls and tree trunks in broad daylight; he further terrified the villagers by riding his ghostly steed inside his ancestral home, an act that would leave demonic hoof marks on the floor. Such examples of supernatural terror eventually led the people of Odell to raise a mob and exorcise the foul spectre. His spirit was relegated to the murky depths of a pond on Odell Wold where he remained for a time, only to emerge from the pond a hundred years later ready to begin anew his tyranny. The devil hadn’t forgotten the pact Alston had made when he was alive and thus was waiting for Sir Rowland when he escaped. According to folklore the devil chased Alston to Odell’s All Saints Church and, fearing his prey had escaped, shook the church in a fit of rage and left five giant finger marks on the porch. It is believed that since that day Alston’s ghost has restricted its appearances to every 100 years, the next visitation scheduled for 2044! A burial mound - believed to date from around 1500 BC - in the village of Shillington plays host to the ghost of an ancient ruler. The mound – also known as Knocking Knoll – is home to a phantom which knocks on the side of the mound, listens carefully, and then vanishes. It is believed that the spectre buried some treasure at the location and is periodically checking that it is still safe and hidden. A communicative "foreign" ghost has been witnessed in the South Bedfordshire village of Studham. The spirit has been described as a short man with a beard dressed in a blue suit with a tall hat. This ghost is encountered on the common where he walks up to people and asks them a question. Nobody knows what the question is because he speaks in a foreign language which none of the witnesses have been able to understand. With the realisation that his latest enquiry has not been met the ghost suddenly vanishes. 9 Thurleigh Airfield has a rich historical heritage due to it once being the home of the 306th Bombardment Group, United States Air Force, during World War Two. This group holds a unique place in military history as having the longest length of stay at a UK base (September 1942 – December 1945) and also, unfortunately, as having the highest loss rate in the Eighth Air Force (between October 1942 and August 1943). The officers' mess is believed to be haunted by the ghost of an American airman. In the early 1990s a civilian staff member of the Ministry of Defence witnessed the door to the reading room opening wide and then closing all by itself. Another incident in the same room saw a light bulb fall from its fitting and land on the coffee table next to the man's hand. This was then followed by the feeling of another presence in the room. The corridors have also echoed with the sound of footsteps when there has been nobody there to make them. Local historian Keith Paull has researched the history of the 306th Bombardment Group. While using the car park at the Electronic Training School, Keith detected a strong smell of frying bacon and eggs, an aroma which became very strong in one area of the car park and then seemed to suddenly disappear. It later transpired that the location was originally used by the airmen as a billet for their mess tents, thus many a hearty breakfast would have been prepared there. One of the ghost stories told to Paull was experienced by Ministry of Defence Policemen who had to patrol the airfield and concerned a haunted hut. The policemen were doing their rounds when they noticed that one of the huts was lit up; looking inside they were met by the sight of a wartime aircrew playing cards. Upon further investigation the hut was empty and in darkness. The village of Willington is home to a manor house that was once used by Henry VIII and has undergone constant rebuilding in its long history. It was during refurbishment in the early twentieth century that a skeleton was discovered bricked up behind a wall. Some believe this gruesome discovery was linked to the hauntings which have been associated with the building. Though a ghost has never been seen, numerous unaccountable noises have been heard including heavy footsteps and the sound of bells. Woburn Abbey has a long and distinguished history. Originally a Saxon hamlet in 969, Cistercian Monks founded the actual abbey in 1145. The house as it stands today dates to 1744 and is home to the famous safari park as well as a rich tradition of ghost tales. With its origins as an abbey Woburn has a couple of reported monk apparitions. One phantom apparition appeared in the crypt and it is believed to be the spirit of Robert Hobbes, a former Abbot who was hanged due to his opposition to Henry VIII’s marriage to Anne Boleyn. A monk clad in brown has also been seen standing between the pillars on either side of the entrance to the sculpture gallery; the monk was then said to disappear. A number of doors in the building are prone to opening by themselves – a fact attested to by jazz legend Acker Bilk, who was staying at Woburn on the night of such spooky activity. A recent haunting has entailed the ghost of a former servant to the seventh Duke, a servant who met a murderous end. One night burglars broke in and assaulted the servant and locked him in a cupboard. With the man disposed of the thieves went about robbing the house, when they had finished they drowned the servant in the lake. A number of people have reported feeling the sensation of a wet hand passing across their faces. Is this the lakesodden spectre of the servant making his presence felt in the very rooms where he served? 10 Holy Places Churches and holy buildings have always been staple locations for events of a supernatural nature. The close proximity of graveyards could account for the number of ghostly occurrences reported at such locations. Also churches are regarded as peaceful places, sanctuary from the busy world, and thus can attract a reflective spirit. Whatever the reason for the number of sightings in this county the holy buildings of Bedfordshire appear rife with mysterious happenings. Bedford’s Methodist Chapel on Newnham Avenue is said to be home to a dapper spirit who has been seen standing quite clearly by the Chapel resplendent in tweed clothes of a 1920’s cut. The ghost is reported to walk by the chapel and then vanish. Another ghost was witnessed at the same location in the middle of the 20th century. This time the ghost was seen walking along the back of the building. A suspicious witness followed the man only to see him walk through the wall leaving a puff of smoke behind him. It is possible that these two apparitions are the same ghost. Both cases have seen the figure vanish, and also the second ghost was reported to have been well dressed, although not in tweed. Also located in Bedford is Sister’s House, a former nunnery next to St Luke’s Church on St Peter’s Street. In 1997 a member of staff from the Pilgrim’s Housing Association (who owns the building) was awoken by the feeling of a heavy weight on the end of his bed. When he looked he was met with the figure of a nun sitting there. As if this wasn’t enough to startle the man, the nun then slowly passed along the room and vanished through the wall. Dunstable is also home to a number of ghostly apparitions, particularly by the Priory. One such ghost is thought to be a former prior who is occasionally seen walking around the building eight times in a day, each walk in accordance with religious ritual. The area opposite the gates of Priory Gardens was once home to another monastery in Dunstable, this time of the Benedictine order. A Bedfordshire archaeologist was staying in a caravan on the site while undertaking excavation work. One night he awoke to discover that his caravan was shaking. He went outside to investigate and came face to face with a hooded monk wearing the typical habit of the Benedictine’s. The man ran back to his caravan and left Dunstable the next day! The Churches in the villages of Stevington and Millbrook also have their own ghostly characteristics. Stevington's St Mary the Virgin plays host to a shadowy spectre in a long cloak and hat, while St Michael and All Angels in Millbrook once echoed with the sound of groans and whipping noises. Perhaps one of the most notorious churches in Bedfordshire is St Mary's Church in Clophill. The ruins attracted notoriety in the 1960s when an alleged ritual took place. Strange symbols were daubed on the walls. The grave of an eighteenth century woman had been broken open and her bones were found laid out in a circle within the church and her skull impaled on a railing. Many paranormal investigations have taken place in the location, all of which have commented on the dark and oppressive atmosphere that haunts there. In terms of specific ghosts, the church is believed to be visited by a spectre which the locals call “Sophie”. A coffin bearing the name Sophia Mendham was discovered in the nave of the church. Sophia died in 1893 and she is presumed to be the source of the haunting. 11 Further ghostly tales associated with the church concern two close friends, George and William, who joined the Air Force during the First World War, the latter becoming a pilot and the former an air mechanic. After a dangerous mission, William’s damaged plane crashed into the ground and caught fire, George ran to help his friend but sadly both men died in the endeavour. It is believed that George’s spirit remains in the church graveyard looking for the resting place of his friend. Chicksands – built for the monastic Gilbertian order – is another Bedfordshire building with both a holy and a ghostly pedigree. Two cases of the Priory haunting can be traced to the First World War when the property was in the hands of the Osborne family (later becoming Osborn). Annie Stamp, a maid, was walking to the King James Room when she witnessed a tall lady dressed in white flash past her. A more sinister occurrence at the house in the same period was the discovery of a dead man found outside the Priory. The man’s black hair had been turned white and his features were etched in terror leading many to believe that he had been scared to death. During the Second World War Chicksands became a Signals Station for the Royal Air Force and was again visited by strange phenomenon. Another female presence – this time dressed in black with unkempt hair partially obscuring a wrinkled crone’s visage. In the 1950’s the Priory gardener was in the greenhouse – an area where a number of graves were excavated – when he noticed a greyish shape move along the path, the shape having vanished by the time the gardener came out to investigate. A few years later in 1954, another female apparition was encountered. Clasping a notebook, the ghost was discovered at the end of an RAF officer’s bed. Three years later another member of the RAF had a more violent encounter with one of the Priory phantasms. While asleep the man was clawed on his left side and then dragged by a ghost which, despite such violence, had a face that smiled in a friendly manner. The spectre then vanished emitting a strange cry. In recent years the Priory has come under the ownership of the Defence Intelligence and Security Service. Due to the organisation's sensitive work the scope for further paranormal research in the building is extremely limited. Despite this, occasional occurrences have been reported such as strange white lights and the sounds of both children’s laughter and music from a harpsichord drifting through the empty rooms. Local Bedfordshire historian Roger Ward has written extensively about Chicksands Priory and its history including a volume dedicated to the hauntings - The Ghosts and Tunnels of Chicksands Priory. Ward's output can be found at Bedford Central Library and is recommended to anyone with an interest in the subject. As all the above stories illustrate, Bedfordshire’s holy places may continue to present us with a rich variety of strange and awe inspiring activities. 12 Hospitals Hospitals are not one of the usual locations that spring to mind when considering the paranormal, yet there have been several occurrences of a ghostly nature that involve hospital environments. The south wing of Bedford Hospital has been the stage for a number of reports including eerie footsteps and unsettling presences. In 1972 a trainee nurse on Russell Ward saw a pretty girl wearing a long dress and a long white coat walking up the stairs. Another member of staff also saw the girl and both nurses watched the stranger go into the toilet – from where she never emerged. Upon investigating the toilets the two women found only a distinct cold spot. Both nurses also agreed that the figure seemed to be gliding. Another strange occurrence came from Shand Ward – the distinct sounds of elderly footsteps were heard, yet the only people in the ward were younger, more mobile people. Fairfield Hospital in Stotfold was originally known as The Three Counties Asylum until the 1960's. Though the site is now being renovated as part of the Fairfield Park development, there are many stories of hauntings from the time of the building's use as a hospital. Mary, a female nurse, reported a couple of things happened to her at Fairfield. She would notice how the kitchen door handle would move whenever she was alone in the room, when Mary would go out into the corridor to investigate the culprit was nowhere to be seen. Once, again in the kitchen, Mary was making hot drinks for the rest of the staff. Having forgotten one of the orders she asked, "Did you want tea or coffee?" to which a voice replied "Tea, with two sugars". Yet the staff member wanted coffee with one sugar and hadn't actually replied to Mary's request. There was no one else in the kitchen to account for the mysterious voice. Another female member of staff, Jenny, witnessed a number of strange events during her 15 years of working at Fairfield, including wheelchairs soundlessly moving of their own accord, windows which were locked being unlocked while nobody else was around, and the sound of dragging feet from an otherwise empty room. Jenny also witnessed a number of apparitions during her employment at the hospital. She noticed a man walking along the drive wearing the green staff uniform. Yet when Jenny looked again the man had vanished. Another vanishing man was witnessed in 1996; he was seen early in the morning and then was gone! Strange occurrences at the hospital were not just restricted to staff, vehicles have also been affected. An ambulance driver reported that her vehicle had moved on its own fifteen feet across the car park – despite the fact that the engine was off, the handbrake was on and the car park was flat. Whether such activity will cease now that the hospital is being made into flats remains to be seen. Could it be possible that the occupants of Fairfield Park may have a few unexpected guests when they move in? 13 Museums Our history continues to inspire and influence our modern lives. It is in the antiquarian world of museums that our collective pasts can be encountered and re-lived, and it is also in such reflective and nostalgic spaces that numerous ghostly or supernatural events are enacted. Luton’s Museum and Art Gallery in Wardown Park has been the setting for a ghostly manifestation, although the last recorded sighting occurred in 1971. The museum, once a Victorian house, was used during the First World War as a military hospital, and it was here that reports emerged of a female figure clad in grey appearing to the nurses and the wounded soldiers. When the building became a museum the sound of footsteps could be heard on the back stairs – these footsteps usually occurred early in the morning or in the evening, times when there was nobody in the building to make the sounds. In 1971, again in the evening, two engineers were working on the heating of the museum when they too heard footsteps coming down the stairs. They saw a woman wearing a dark dress with a set of keys hanging from her belt. The lady turned, went back up the stairs and couldn’t be found. When the engineers talked to the caretaker he assured them that nobody else was in that area at the time of the visitation. Was this the same ghost which used to appear to the nurses and the soldiers in previous years? The lady is generally thought to be the spirit of a Victorian housekeeper haunting the building where she used to serve. Bedford’s Cecil Higgins Art Gallery and Museum – which was also a Victorian house - has been the locale for a number of paranormal events witnessed by both staff and visitors. A lot of these events seem to be poltergeist in nature. The door of the ladies toilet, (similarly Bedford Cineworld also suffers from a haunted convenience), a heavy door shut on its own, much to the surprise of the museums secretary. The museum curator was also the victim of unaccountable phenomenon. A ladder was moved from where she had left it and a set of dummies had been rearranged in a straight line. Such mysterious occurrences are not just restricted to staff. Visitors in the Nursery have seen cupboard doors closing by themselves, a clock falling, and pages of music on top of the piano were seen to be turned as if invisible hands were leafing through the manuscript. The Hexagonal Gallery was the scene for a bowl of oil moving on its own. The bowl slid along the table and rested at the edge before rocking back and forth! Although there are many similar reports of activity in the museum – falling portraits, electrical equipment mysteriously malfunctioning – some actual spectres have been recorded in visitation to the building. An unknown man in a dark suit has been witnessed, as has a man in a bowler hat looking as if he had just emerged from the 1930s. The library within the museum plays host to a ghostly stable boy who has been seen browsing the bookshelves. The entire museum seems to be a fascinating place, a doorway into the past that some presences don’t want to leave behind! 14 Pubs If you mention pubs and spirits in the same breath it is likely that alcohol intake be blamed as a possible cause for the experiencing of paranormal phenomenon. Yet inns and public houses have been the stage for a number of strange events throughout both history and the county. Bedfordshire paranormal writer Damien O’Dell, in his study Ghostly Bedfordshire....Reinvestigated – A Haunted History makes several interesting points regarding the association of ghosts and pubs. O’Dell points out that inns were frequently used to take the bodies of murder and accident victims as hospitals were not in existence or if they were, not very widespread. Pubs often had a room reserved for the laying out of bodies before burial. Another fact is that after the church the pub was usually the oldest building in the town or village, and as such has a long historical lineage. All the above suggest reasons why the departed may linger in such establishments. Pubs are also usually places of good cheer and good times. Why shouldn’t ghosts return to places that may well have happy connotations for them! The King's Arms in Bedford plays host to two ghosts. The spectre of an old man has been seen in the cellar and is believed to be responsible for such mischievous antics as throwing beer barrels and taking the beer taps apart! The second ghost hasn't been seen, but has been heard to walk upstairs and is just as prone to mayhem – it has even been known to throw nails at customers in the bar. Beeston's The Cross has a number of poltergeist activities attached to it. Instances include whisky bottles falling off the shelves, chalk levitating from the snooker table, beer and larger barrels being tampered with, and customers becoming trapped in the toilet when the doors inexplicably locked themselves. Haunting of such extremity doesn't seem to occur at The Golden Pheasant in Biggleswade, although unknown footsteps have been heard as has a phantom vocalist singing in the bar. A young ostler – a stable hand employed at an inn - haunts The Falcon Inn in Bletsoe. The story goes that the unfortunate lad fell from the hayloft and died. His ghost is often seen in the pub, generally in the kitchens, and is believed to be responsible for a number of items going missing on the premises. A nautical theme permeates the bar at The Five Bells in Cople as it is haunted by a sailor. The sailor sits by the fireplace smoking a clay pipe and has been described as wearing his hair in a pigtail. Sightings of this maritime spectre are a common occurrence with a previous landlady having seen him frequently during her twentythree years at the pub. Dunstable has a number of pubs as well as a number of ghosts haunting them. The Black Horse is no longer in existence but in its time it suffered from the usual activity that seems a part of haunted pubs. Items were often moved or went missing and the lights would frequently go off and on. A ghost was actually seen during the pub’s history; the figure stood by the bar and was dressed in Civil War era clothes. The barmaid had cause to remember this spirit, as he didn't have a head! A stable boy with an injured hand haunts another of the pubs in the town –The Victoria. The stable block is at the back of the pub and it is here that the ghost has 15 often been seen. It is believed that the boy injured his hand in the stable door, a wound that would have prevented him from being able to work. The White Swan is home to a spirit that has given the ghost tale a more modern twist. Security cameras monitor the bar in this establishment, and on a number of occasions a figure has regularly been seen on the screen walking through the empty bar. Yet when the tape is played back the figure is not on the film. Former pub staff can also return in ghostly form to their previous workplaces. The Oakley Arms in Harrold is visited by a landlord from the 1930s and 40s. Dan Orpin has appeared to drinkers many times, he is either seen walking through the pub or standing by the bar smoking and drinking. Ghosts stir regularly in the Houghton Conquest pub The Knife and Cleaver. It is reported that almost everyday staff feel a draught brushing past them when there is nobody there. One barman was particularly surprised when the pages of his bookings diary started turning over of their own accord. The feeling of fear was heightened when he saw an unknown hand appear over his shoulder. Leighton Buzzard has a couple of haunted pubs – The Bedford Arms and The Buckingham Arms. The former is frequented by an old woman who is in the habit of peering over people when they sleep, while the latter establishment is visited by a troublesome spirit which slams all the doors and runs up and down the stairs. The Cork and Bull in Luton is unique in its haunting in that there has supposedly been physical interaction between the customers and the ghost of a lady called Ann. It is believed Ann was murdered in the pub and thus remains there. Her antics have included moving things, throwing stools across the room and shaking tables. Ann has been described as being all white and some customers have reported sitting and talking to her without knowing that she was a ghost. In response Ann has often touched these individuals as they talk. Another Luton pub also has a tragic death associated with it. The Four Horseshoes originally burnt down in 1876; the owner died in the blaze and his charred body was found clutching the cash box containing that night’s takings. The man obviously thought more of money than he did for his own safety and the sound of coins being counted can often be heard resonating from the cellar of the now rebuilt pub. With this sound gusts of cold air have been felt even on the warmest days. The site in Northill now occupied by The Crown was once a monastery belonging to The Order of the Knights Hospitallers. It is no surprise to learn that ghostly monks have been seen on the premises. The sons of one of the landlords remembered seeing a ghostly figure draped in black walk up the stairs and then vanish. Customers have also seen a monk-like figure drifting across the car park. The obligatory grey lady has been spotted in The Cross Keys at Pulloxhill. It seems this particular spectre favours sitting near the fireplace as she has been seen there on numerous occasions. Customers feel very uneasy in this spot; some even refuse to sit near it because of a strange atmosphere that pervades there. A paranormal investigation at this location in 1999 resulted in reports of strange shadowy figures walking across the bar as well as a blue light which moved along the floor. A male ghost has also been witnessed wearing a brown suit from the 1930s. This man has since been recognized as a former landlord who died in the pub. 16 Similar to the above pub, The Fox and Hounds in Riseley is also home to a female ghost which haunts the fireplace in the lounge. The ghost – believed to be a nurse who was run over and killed by a coach, her body then being taken to the nearest pub – has a habit of turning the lights on and off, creating footstep sounds on the floors above and, most unusually, coughing. The Old George in Silsoe has the usual signs of a pub haunting – unknown footsteps heard and strange presences felt. In 1959 the landlady at the time was so troubled by spirits that she called in an exorcist. Such measures were to no avail as the ghost continued to bother the inn by consistently slamming the doors. An actual figure has been sighted at the inn. In the 1960s, a workman looked up and saw a young woman dressed in grey and wearing an impressive hat stroll past. The ghost is believed to be that of Lady Elizabeth Grey and her tale is a tragic one of forbidden love. Lady Grey met and fell in love with the young coachman at the inn. As her father would never have approved of such a relationship, she hid at the inn for two weeks in a desperate attempt to keep her love alive. However her father found out and as Elizabeth and her beau fled their coach crashed into the lake drowning the occupants. Thus Elizabeth still lingers at the location where she spent her last days. The picturesque village of Toddington is home to The Bell which is haunted by the ghost of a landlord’s daughter. The girl, when alive, was prone to fits and tantrums and she died in the kitchen from a seizure brought on by one such fit. The ghostly activity now takes place in the same kitchen, pots and pans have been thrown across room and pictures have been known to jump off the walls, seemingly ripped off by a severe rage. In the same village stands The Bedford Arms which is visited frequently by a seafaring ghost christened “The Captain” by the staff. He is often to be heard walking about upstairs creating clear, resounding footsteps. Descriptions of the ghost describe him as a big man with a beard dressed in a red and blue tunic. Other instances of strange activity include doors opening by themselves and one of the barmaids being tapped on the shoulder by the mysterious spirit. Another establishment called The Bedford Arms was to be found in Woburn. Now know as The Inn, the premises have been plagued by two spirits. The first is of a man sitting by the fireplace smoking a clay pipe; he has been described as wearing a hat and a smock and is also joined by his dog! A white lady is the second spectre also known to stalk the inn. A tall lady that seems to manifest in vaporous, steam like motions. The Chequers Inn in Wootton is home to a couple more examples of the paranormal. The majority of staff have been witness to a vanishing customer who is seen from the corner of the eye and then disappears. Glasses have also fallen from the shelves for no reason, yet have not smashed when they hit the floor. Judging by all these examples, it would seem that pubs offer more than just thirst quenching, with a variety of strange phenomenon being enacted before and after time is called! 17 Roads and Lanes The roads and lanes that zigzag the county may seem inconspicuous spaces, just passages that take us from A to B, or otherwise picturesque locations for a stroll. However, such areas have an historical lineage and can seem to leave their marks in the most mysterious of ways. Clophill’s Great Lane – the name given to the road that runs from Haynes Church End to Clophill Road – is haunted by a ghostly horse and rider. The figure has been described as hooded like a monk and carrying a lantern. In 1969 a newsagent was delivering papers when he saw the eerie glow of the lantern. Stopping his car, the newsagent saw to his amazement, the rider appearing out of the dark proceeding to pass straight through the car. A family who lived near the same spot are said to have moved because they were upset by the presence of the ghost. It has been suggested that the rider is on his way to Chicksands Priory (hence the monkish appearance) which was nearby and could be reached by the old path. Wood End Road in Cranfield is visited by another spectre on horseback, this time a woman by the name of Lady Snagge. Lady Elizabeth Snagge was married to Thomas Snagge – a Member of Parliament and Attorney General for Ireland. The legend states that Lady Snagge was riding down Wood End Road and was decapitated by a rope which had been stretched across the road by thieves intent on unseating riders. The bandits robbed her body of its jewels and finery and then fled. Her ghost is often sensed riding down the lane past pedestrians who feel the cold air generated by her presence swishing against them. She is also said to materialize along the narrow lane. Sometimes the spirit is seen headless – befitting the manner of her death – and at other times fully formed. Dunstable has a number of haunted highways and byways. Buttercup Lane was the setting for two men witnessing a strange apparition in 1969. As they were walking they saw something wearing a big hat and gliding about eighteen inches off the ground. Despite the hat there was nothing else to suggest that the shape was a person – no arms, no legs. The thing was about eight to ten feet tall and changed colour from white to black. Church Walk was the setting for the strange demise of a loyal dog. A narrow footpath running from Dunstable High Street towards Priory Church, Church Walk already had sinister connotations due to its nickname of Corpse Walk due to coffins being taken to Priory Church via the path. In the late 1940s a man was walking his dog along Church Walk. The dog ran off and when the owner caught up with it it was rooted to the spot growling and baring his teeth, yet there was no visible threat. Suddenly the dog gave a yelp and ran back down the alley onto the High Street and unfortunately ran straight in front of a passing car. It was never determined what had spooked the dog; although it seems that the sight of something caused the poor creatures demise. The A5 road towards Dunstable has been the setting for a number of reports featuring a ghostly cricketer. The phantom has been seen standing by the side of the road – and on one occasion the ghost actually stepped out in front of a car. This spectre is linked to a coach crash in 1958 when two members of the Kenwood Manufacturing Company cricket team were killed returning from a match at Milton Bryan. Mag Lane is situated near Hockliffe and is believed to be visited by a ghost of a witch known as Headless Mag. Nobody knows when Mag lived, though some reports 18 say she occupied the lane early in the 20th century. Descriptions of Mag usually start with her form rising up in a white mist then have her moving silently through the shrubbery on the look-out for unwary pedestrians crossing her path. A ghost of a girl haunts Drury Lane in Houghton Regis. Her spirit has been appearing as far back as the 1930s. The girl is usually barefooted wearing a white party dress. Church Walk in Kempston runs near the River Great Ouse and it is because of this stretch of water that a ghost haunts the path. Frequent sightings have been seen of a green lady that seems to be gliding through the river mist. The sightings grew so intense that various clubs refused to go to their meetings at the church in case they ran into her. The death of a lady through drowning has been attributed as the cause of this water-walking spectre. Various female spirits haunt another location in Kempston, that of Ladies Walk. The aforementioned Lady Snagge has appeared in this location as has a young girl mourning the death of her lover in the Civil War. Most touching of these visitations are the spirits of two childhood friends who walk hand in hand just as they did when they were alive. Footpath Number 4 may not be the most inspiring of names for a haunted location but this area has thrown up a number of interesting phantasms in its time. The footpath runs between Common Road and Hollicks Lane in Kensworth. A Shuck has been seen skulking around the path (for more information on Shucks see Chapter One – Animals) although this particular devil dog only seems to have one eye. A witch is also said to haunt this location, descriptions of her are slight although some believe she is the same witch haunting the hamlet of Church End north of Kensworth. This particular witch follows the path towards the church and angrily shakes her fist at the holy building in retaliation for not being allowed into the church when she was alive because of her occult leanings. The footpath's other spectre is a headless milkmaid recognisable by a yoke and pails she carries. As with any ghost sighting there are a number of explanations as to how she lost her head. Some say she was attacked and murdered as she walked down the path, another that she was decapitated in a farming accident, and, perhaps the most morbid, her lover cut off her head so as part of her could remain with him forever! Phantom Hitchhikers have very much become a part of urban myths. Bedfordshire also has similar apparitions, with one of the better-known stories taking place in Leighton Buzzard. The incident involved Roy Fulton who was driving his van where Peddars Land becomes Station Road. Roy noticed a young man hitchhiking; he pulled over and offered the man a lift. The hitchhiker was described as dark haired with a pale and unusually long face. He got into Roy’s van and simply pointed ahead when asked where he wanted to go. During the drive Roy turned to offer his guest a cigarette only to discover that the man had vanished! Roy stopped the van and searched the road. There was no sign of anyone. No other sightings of a disappearing hitchhiker have been recorded for that particular stretch of road, thus the whole escapade is a true mystery. The strange occurrences associated with Millbrook's Woburn Road are so unlike any other that they are well worth a mention. One night a mother and her child were walking along the path when a pile of stones rose up in the air and proceeded to fly about in all directions. Another night saw a man being followed by a strange light which emerged from a hedgerow and then disappeared. The same hedgerow could also have been another setting for a Shuck sighting – a woman saw a large black shape leap over the hedgerow and land in the middle of the road without making a sound. 19 Even a form of teleportation has been encountered at the spot. A man was climbing a stile and suddenly found himself in Clophill, a locale some ten kilometres away! A lane running north of Ravensden is the setting for an eerie encounter with a blackdraped crone. The elderly woman has been described as wearing a long dress or cloak, and her face is alleged to be fixed in an expression of utter hatred, one that never fails to startle those who encounter her. Some say that she is a spirit of an old 17th century witch who died of exposure on the roadside after being turned out of her home. Witch or not, it is considered bad luck if you see her. In 1997 a car was driving along Sandy’s Potton Road when a figure emerged from the side of the road and proceeded to walk across it. With the sudden appearance of this person the car had no time to stop, the occupants of the car prepared for the worst but the car ended up passing through the figure. The spirit was described as a headless skinny woman in modern clothes. The woman also had a small dog with her. These are just a small number of the weird and wonderful road and lane encounters which have been reported throughout the county. Such stories prove that locations for ghostly appearances don’t necessarily have to be grand houses or ruined churches; even the most banal of locations hold a hidden undercurrent. 20 Miscellaneous Due to the random and unpredictable nature of many supernatural occurrences it is not possible to neatly categorise all events worthy of note. This, the final chapter of Bedfordshire Ghosts, deals with those numerous spirit encounters that have spilled out from the main chapters. Domestic dwellings are just as likely to be haunted as a grand Manor House as these two examples from Bedfordshire prove. Bailey Street in Luton is home to a series of flats in Dorset Court. A man was sitting watching his television when he noticed a headless man appearing in the doorway. The following day the man felt something splash him in the face – his wife, in some distress, pointed out that his face was covered in blood, blood that was not his own. This same blood then appeared all over the bathroom walls. The occupants decided to arrange an exorcism to rid them of this problem. Despite these measures the shock was too much for the couple and they moved out vowing never to return. Tavistock Street in Bedford is home to another supposedly haunted flat. The flat has been used as accommodation for the workers of a local brewery. Writing on the windows of the flat apparently started to appear and furniture would move across the floor. An employee who lived there twenty years ago reported coming home to the empty flat only to find his records were being played. Many people in the flat have reported feeling a strange atmosphere pervading the place. The flat used to have a bicycle shop beneath it, a shop where the owner shot himself. Could this explain the eeriness of the flat above? A premises in Church Street in Ampthill was the setting for a most unlikely haunting – that of a hairdressers. One customer saw the image of a hanged man in the upstairs room. The owner called in an exorcist who seemed to have banished that particular phantom, yet soon after a small boy was seen repeatedly by staff and customers in the same upstairs location as the hanged man. Many have remarked that this room is filled with a strange atmosphere and not the sort of place to be on your own. Most stories end with a resolution; however, in the case of Bedfordshire Ghosts you are invited to draw your own conclusions. Whether you are a believer or a sceptic hopefully these tales and legends of our county will have fascinated and amused. 21 Bibliography King, William H. – Haunted Bedfordshire: A Critical Compendium. The Book Castle, Dunstable, Bedfordshire, 2005 Matthews,Rupert – Haunted Places of Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire. Countryside Books, Newbury, Berkshire, 2004 O’Dell, Damien – Ghostly Bedfordshire…Reinvestigated. A Haunted History. Egon Publishers LTD, 2004 Puttick, Betty – Ghosts Of Bedfordshire. Countryside Books, Newbury, Berkshire, 1996 Rose, Carol – Giants, Monsters, and Dragons: An Encyclopaedia of Folklore, Legend and Myth. Oxford, England, 2000 Simpson, Jacqueline and Roud, Steve – A Dictionary of English Folkore. Press, Oxford, 2000 OUP Ward, Roger – The Ghosts and Tunnels of Chicksands Priory. R.W. Ward, Bedfordshire, 1989 Newspaper articles and pamphlets in Bedford Central Library’s Local Studies Collections. 22 Index Page No. A5 Alma Cinema Alston, Sir Rowland Ampthill Ampthill Castle Animals Aspects Leisure Park Aspley Guise Bailey Street, Luton Barton-le-Cley Bedford Bedford Arms Public House, Leighton Buzzard Bedford Arms Public House, Toddington Bedford Arms Public House, Woburn Bedford Hospital Beeston Biggleswade Bell Public House Black Horse Public House Black shuck Black Tom Bletsoe Brooks, John Thomas Buckingham Arms Public House Bullnose Bat Public House Buttercup Lane, Dunstable Carlton Hill Cecil Higgins Art Gallery and Museum Chellington Chequers Inn Public House Chicksands Chicksands Priory Church End, Kensworth Church Street, Ampthill Church Walk, Dunstable Church Walk, Kempston Cinemas Cineworld, Bedford Cineworld, Luton Clapham Road, Bedford Clophill Common Road, Kenworth Cople Cork and Bull Public House Corpse Walk, Dunstable Cranfield Cross Public House Cross Keys Public House Crown Public House 18 6 9 8, 21 8 4 6 7 21 8 4, 6, 7, 11, 13, 14, 15, 20 16 17 17 13 15 15 17 15 4 7 15 9 16 4 18 4 14 4 17 12 12, 18 19 21 18 19 6 6 6 7 11, 18, 19 4, 19 15 16 18 18 15 16 16 23 Dogs Drury Lane, Houghton Regis Dunstable Dunstable Priory Eastfields Corner Fairfield Hospital Falcon Inn Public House Flitwick Five Bell Public House Flitwick Manor Four Horseshoes Public House Fox and Hounds Public House Galley Hill Galloping Dick Golden Pheasant Public House Great Lane, Clophill Grey, Lady Elizabeth Harrold Headless Mag Headless spectres High Street, Dunstable Highway men Hitchhikers Hockliffe Hollicks Lane, Kenworth Horses Houghton Conquest Houghton Regis Houghton House Hospitals Kempston Kempston Manor Kensworth King’s Arms Public House Knife and Cleaver Knocking Knoll Leighton Buzzard Luton Luton Museum and Art Gallery Mag Lane, Hockliffe Mendham, Sophia Millbrook Monks Museums New Bedford Road, Luton Newnham Avenue, Bedford Newnham Priory Newnham Swimming Pool Northill Nuns Oakley Arms O’Dell, Damien Odell Odell Castle Old George Public House 4, 18 19 11, 15, 18, 19 11 4 13 15 8 15 8 16 17 4 7 15 18 17 16 18 19 18 7 19 18 4, 19 4, 8 16 19 8 13 9, 19 9 19 15 16 9 16, 19 4, 6, 14, 16, 21 14 18 11 5, 7 6, 10, 11, 16, 18, 19 14 6 11 6 6 16 11 16 8 9 9 17 24 Paull, Keith Pavenham Poltergeists Potton Road, Sandy Priory Church, Dunstable Pulloxhill Ravensden Regent Street, Bedford Riseley Saint Luke’s Church Saint Mary’s Church, Clophill Saint Peter’s Street, Bedford Sandhill Close, Millbrook Sandy Shillington Silsoe Snagge, Lady Station Road, Millbrook Station Road, Leighton Buzzard Studham Tavistock Street, Bedford Thurleigh Thurleigh Airfield Toddington Turpin, Dick Union Street, Bedford Victoria Public House Ward, Roger Waterside Mill White Swan Public House Willington Witches Woburn Woburn Abbey Wood End Road, Cranfield Woburn Road, Millbrook Wootton 10 4 14, 15 20 18 16 20 7 4, 17 11 11 11 5, 7 20 9 17 18 7 19 9 7, 21 10 10 17 7 7 15 12 8 16 10 19, 20 10, 17 10 18 19 17 25 © Bedfordshire Libraries Researched by Daniel Stannard, 2006 26