“New” Red Wine Varieties for Trial in the Northern Parts of
Eastern North America
Bob Pool
Department of Horticultural Sciences
Cornell University
Geneva, NY 14456
In 1964, when wine grape research became “officially” acceptable and even
encouraged at Cornell’s Geneva experiment station, 80% of table wine
consumption in the U.S. was red. The primary goal of the new program was to
create or identify varieties that would make better red table wines than were
obtained using the traditional Native American varieties.
At that time, a de facto testing group had already been testing new varieties,
mostly hybrid ones, for use in eastern North America. In addition to John Einset and
Willard Robinson of the station, this group included such names as Phillip Wagner,
Charles Fournier, Ed Haynes, A. DeChaunac, Ollie Bradt and other American and
Canadian leaders of the effort to transform our industry from the production of
sweet dessert wines to main stream table wines.
That effort identified many varieties now industry standards including DeChaunac,
Baco Noir, Chancellor and others. During the last half of the 1960’s very palatable
red wines were being produced in the east using these varieties. However, as
demand outpaced supply, growers found they could sell inferior grapes from
overcropped vines. The result was that in the early 1970’s red wine quality declined
precipitously and sales fell in response. The hybrids, formerly looked upon as the
salvation, became a curse.
It is somewhat ironic that by 1970, not only had U.S. table wine consumption
increased almost 10 fold, nearly all the increase was in white wines. The interest in
new red wine varieties for the east disappeared. Perhaps for that reason, the first
product of Cornell’s new wine grape program was Cayuga White, introduced in
1972. In 1974 when I took over the grape-breeding program, I was asked by the
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station director, “When can we expect the new red varieties promised when the
program was started.” An industry member answered for me; “the last thing we
want is more red hybrids.” After that the problem wasn’t so much working with white
wine varieties, but persuading administrators to continue to support a balanced
program of red and white wine grape breeding.
The pendulum has now swung once more. Advances in regional winery
sophistication, population demographics, increasing consumer sophistication and
health news have combined to renew the interest in red wines. Once again we are
asked to identify varieties to meet the changed markets. There are really two
separate markets, the mass market and the emerging “ultra” premium market. The
two segments have different needs.
The following discussion is based on my personal opinions. These comments should
all be taken as preliminary. On the other hand, if you want exact knowledge, you
will have to wait until these varieties are no longer “new”.
Mass Market Red Wine Varieties
Much of the new interest in red wine is coming from people who are not already red
wine drinkers. These consumers have heard that red wine is good for you, but may
not be familiar with or ready for a “big” red wine of character. The wine should be
pleasant, but not too assertive. Perhaps a little residual sugar will not detract from
acceptance. Neither the grape nor the wine producer should expect to get top
dollar from this market. The grapes should be widely adapted, and not require
above average vineyard inputs to succeed.
Named Hybrids:
Chambourcin – this is not really a new variety, but it has not been widely grown in
New York. Personally, I am still not enthusiastic about it for our region, but the vine
has moderate cold hardiness and, when the grapes ripen, the wines are good. The
drawbacks are that the hardiness is not all that great (for a hybrid) and too often
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the grapes do not fully ripen in our climate. Unripe Chambourcin makes
herbaceous, not very interesting wines.
St. Croix – I really do not have much personal knowledge about the variety. It seems
to grow like a weed in New York, and the wines I have had from Missouri have been
pleasant. Check with others before planting.
Hybrids not yet named
The breeding effort of the 1960’s and 1970’s may be finally producing pay back. Dr.
Bruce Reisch and Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling have identified two selections for
advanced testing. These may be released sooner rather than later. They can
already be purchased from the Grafted Grapevine Nursery under special license.
(The
comments
below
were
taken
directly
from
Dr.
Reisch’s
web
site.
I have tasted the wines and find them equal or superior to the hybrids presently
available)
NY70.0809.10 - (SV 18-307 x Steuben) - produces a highly ranked vinous, vinifera type
wine. The vine is vigorous and very productive at Geneva. Some cluster thinning is
usually required to avoid overcropping. Vines are healthy with good powdery
mildew and Botrytis rot resistance and often maintain green leaves up until frost. Fruit
maturity is late, with harvest Oct. 15-20 in Geneva.
NY73.0136.17 - [(NY33277 x Chancellor) x Steuben] produces an excellent full-bodied
wine with a distinct pepper character and moderate tannin content. Vines have
generally been vigorous and productive in the Finger Lakes of New York, though
older vines occasionally show a slow decline in vigor that may be indicative of a
need for grafting. The leaves show moderate resistance to powdery mildew, but
both fruit and leaves require a regular spray program to control downy mildew. Fruit
maturity is mid-season, approx. Oct. 1 in Geneva.
(These comments are my own and do not necessarily reflect the views of Dr.
Reisch)
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GR7 – This is one of the oldest selections in the Geneva grape breeding program. It
has been tested widely in commercial Finger Lakes vineyards. It is an exceptionally
well adapted variety. It is very productive, cold hardy and lends itself to
mechanized production. The wine is not exceptional. In fact the wines are
somewhat thin and have only moderate flavor. They sometimes have a slight
American (Labrusca) aroma. However, the wines are very well received in the
standard quality market. Because of the remarkable vineyard adaptation, I would
like to see this vine made available to growers. While the wine quality is only
average, growers in lower quality sites will be able to produce grapes, which
presently have a good market.
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Less widely planted vinifera varieties
Table 1 is reproduced from a research report prepared by Thomas Henick-Kling and
me. It is a list of non-standard varieties we have been testing. The above varieties
have produced some interest.
Dornfelder – this is a “new” variety from Germany produced to make wine with
better color than most German reds attain. The variety has been very easy to grow,
productive and hardy. We have only made a few wines and these have ranged
from acceptable to good. The wine is pleasant rather than impressive. It would
probably be best marketed to main stream consumers who will pay a premium for
vinifera wine.
Petit Verdot – This is one of the authorized varieties for Bordeaux blends in France.
We have had long experience with it in Geneva. It ripens with Cabernet Sauvignon,
and I see little reason to plant it except when wine makers want to increase the
complexity of his/her Meritage blend.
Table 1. Mean median low temperature exotherm temperature
for primary buds from various red wine Vitis vinifera
grape varieties (January 1999).
Variety
Dornfelder
Petit Verdot
Malbec
Trollinger
Lemberger
Pinotage
Shiraz
Gamay Noir
Mean median low
temperature
exotherm (F)
-13.3
-12.5
-11.8
-11.2
-10.2
-8.7
-8.1
-6.9
Malbec – This is supposedly the most widely planted red wine variety in France
(mostly grown under the name, Côt). We really do not have all that much
experience with the variety or its wine, but our experiences have been pleasant so
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far. I can only recommend for experimental planting. Though 100% Malbec wines
from South America and Australia are accpetable to good in quality—not
outstanding.
Trollinger – is grown in Germany where it is often blended with Lemberger. It seems
to be reasonably cold hardy. The wine is light and fruity rather than big and
complex. Sometimes the color is more like a rose than a red. The wine has very
attractive fruit aromas and a lively palate.
Pinotage – is a new variety from South Africa. It was produced from the cross, Pinot
Noir X Cinsault. The vine performance is similar to Pinot Noir. Probably the only reason
to grow it is to have a unique wine to personally market.
Shiraz (Sirah) – this is the Australian clone of Syrah. As a Rhone variety, we would
expect low cold hardiness. To date we have not had severe injury and the wines
have been impressive. Again, plant only as an experiment.
Gamay Noir – this is the variety of Beaujolais and parts of Burgundy. It produces a
wine similar to, but less impressive than, Pinot noir. It will easily overcrop. Personally, I
would plant Pinot noir until I had too much to sell. Then I might consider Gamay noir.
Still it seems about as easy to grow as Pinot noir and makes very pleasant, fruity
wines. It might have interest as a true premieur variety.
Lemberger -
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