receive tons of great questions from web readers. I really appreciate hearing from folks around
the globe because I learn as much as those who write looking for answers. I want to share these
questions and answers with all so we can all learn from each other. Remember you can use our
search engine or click on Edit, then on Find and plug in what you're looking for to search all
these pages on particular topics. Or you can glance through the FAQs below.
Q:
Which
should
I
buy,
the
AFS
or
AFS
II
version
of
a
lens?
Q:
How
many
days
out
of
the
year
are
you
shooting?
Q: When are you going to write another book on wildlife photography?
Q:
Have
you
done
any
macro
with
the
D1?
Q: I've read you're buying the D1H over the D1X, is that correct and if so, why?
Q:
Do
you
sell
prints
of
your
images?
Q:
What
kind
of
loupe
do
you
use
to
edit
your
images?
Q: You use only Nikon gear now when you use to recommend some Tokina. Why the change?
Q: You shoot the 400f2.8 AF-S, can I use a 400f5.6 and accomplish the same thing while saving
money?
Q:
Which
would
you
recommend,
the
F100
or
N80?
Q:
Why
have
you
switched
to
the
D1
and
digital?
Q:
What
lenses
do
you
use
and
why?
Q: I have troubles focusing with the Kenko extension tubes, how come?
Q: I'm having a heck of a time learning flash, what do you suggest?
Q: What's wrong with my lens, when I try to focus on a moving subject is just searches?
Q:
Do
you
always
use
a
Moose
filter?
Q:
Why
do
you
use
Nikon?
Q:
Why
do
you
use
a
400f2.8
and
a
600f4?
Q:
What's
the
difference
between
teleconverters
and
extension
tubes?
Q:
Do
I
really
need
an
eyecup?
Q: I read a lens review on the web which is different from your review, which do I believe?
Q:
Why
do
you
only
write
good
things
about
Nikon
lenses?
Q: Do you work for Nikon? Does Nikon give you all of your gear?
Q:
Why
do
you
hate
Canon?
Q: I understand that the D lenses offer advantages when used with flash photography and the
newer
Nikon
speedlights.
Q: I am unsure if they offer much advantage with non-flash photography. However, I am
wondering if the new RGB metering system in the F5 changes any of my understandings.
Q: Should I wait to buy a D version of a lens I am interested in or is there not big difference
except
for
flash
photography?
Q: This point seems to be confusing many people and is causing problems and confusion. For
example, I am interested in the 75-300 zoom but it is not a D lens. I can wait if getting a D lens is
worth
it.
Q: Are well-used big Nikkors a good bet; if so, is it worth the extra money to get autofocus or
should I look for an older manual focus lens? (I recently used a friend's 300mm f2.8 and loved
the
autofocus
feature.)
Q: I have been reading many photography books. And many of them have exposure settings for
every photo. ... How do these people record all these settings? Do they keep proper notes for
every photo they take?...
More questions...
Q: Which should I buy, the AF-S or AF-S II version of a lens?
A: Not a clue as I don't know you, your style of photography or your abilities. The AF-S II lenses
offer a slighter less weight and slighter shorter MFD lens. If there are problems you're facing in
photography and these new designs solve them, then you probably have your answer. But it's
not one I can answer for you.
Q:
How
many
days
out
of
the
year
are
you
shooting?
A: In 2000, it totaled 6 months away from home and when I'm home, I shoot nearly everyday.
SO it's safe to say it's nearly everyday! And believe it or not, I'm shooting even more in 2001!
Any less and I get really grumpy!
Q: When are you going to write another book on wildlife photography?
A: We've started our own book publishing business and the first book should be out in late
November, The D1 Generation (copyright 2001). There are two books scheduled after that so
I'm hoping the next book on wildlife photography, one like you've never seen before, will be next.
Q:
Have
you
done
any
macro
with
the
D1?
A: I have on limited bases. I find it easier and more fun to do macro with the D1 then
conventional because of the fact I can instantly see if everything is working right and the 1.5x
focal length increase. Moose getting down needs all the help he can get.
Q: I've read you're buying the D1H over the D1X, is that correct and if so, why?
A: Yes, I want the D1H (5fps) over the D1X (3fps) and my reasons are simple. I need fast
camera response vs. big files for my work. Since I already shoot with the D1 and it delivers files
big and good enough for my needs and that of my clients, larger files are not important to me.
Shooting 5fps is to capture action!
Top of Page
Q:
Do
you
sell
prints
of
your
images?
A: You bet, I like money just like the next guy.
We can provide you any print size of any image
you like that you see on our web site For more info and pricing, call our office at 760.924.8632
(M-F 9-5 PST)
Q:
What
kind
of
loupe
do
you
use
to
edit
your
images?
A: I use a 12x loupe as I'm just looking at the eyes of the subject to see if they are sharp. I don't
recommend this power loupe for most folks though, 4x does a great job. Most folks over edit in
the first place, a powerful loupe just increases this problem.
Q: You use only Nikon gear now when you use to recommend some Tokina. Why the
change?
A: I'm a photographer, a wildlife photographer with constantly changing projects. As new
problems arise I find new solutions. Tokina makes an excellent line of optics, have no hesitation
recommending them but for the moment, none solve the problems I run into.
Q: You shoot the 400f2.8 AF-S, can I use a 400f5.6 and accomplish the same thing while
saving
money?
A: I don't know, have no clue what you're trying to accomplish. I rely on the very narrow depthof-field of the 400f2.8 as well as the amount of light it lets in in dark situations for the AF sensor.
Top of Page
Q:
Which
would
you
recommend,
the
F100
or
N80?
A: I hate these types of questions as there is no right or wrong answer, at least for me. I like both
cameras but of late I've been recommending the N80 to most folks as it does a great job for very
little money.
Q:
Why
have
you
switched
to
the
D1
and
digital?
A: I'm a photographer, a wildlife photographer with constantly changing projects. As new
problems arise I find new solutions. For me, my shooting and business, digital offers a whole lot
more solutions. It is also a whole lot more fun! You might want to refer to my Digital Pages for
more in-depth info.
Q:
What
lenses
do
you
use
and
why?
A: You might want to refer to Moose's Camera Bag pages for more info. You might also want to
subscribe to the BT Journal.
Q: I have troubles focusing with the Kenko extension tubes, how come?
A: Without being there to see for myself, I can only guess. I would suspect
that simply there is not enough light for the AF system to function. The
best solution is to turn off the autofocus and manually focus and get the
shot, worry why it didn't work later.
Q: I'm having a heck of a time learning flash, what do you suggest?
A: practice, practice, practice! Flash is hard to learn except when actually using it. You might
want to read the many pages on the web site about flash and try the Teddy Bear exercise to
learn more.
Q: What's wrong with my lens, when I try to focus on a moving subject is just searches?
A: There is nothing wrong with your lens, it's your technique. You are not smoothly tracking or
panning with the subject so the AF sensor isn't constantly on the subject so it keeps searching.
You might want to read on the site about proper long lens technique, hand holding and panning.
Top of Page
Q:
Do
you
always
use
a
Moose
filter?
A: No! The Moose Filter (polarizer) is for removing reflections. I only use this tool when this tool
is needed.
Q:
Why
do
you
use
Nikon?
A: The main reason I originally went with Nikon and stuck with it was for its flash technology. I
still use Nikon because I like it, nothing more complicated than that!
Q:
Why
do
you
use
a
400f2.8
and
a
600f4?
A: One is my "mammal" lens and the other is my "bird" lens. I have specific lenses for specific
uses, that's my style of photography. For a more in-depth answer, you need to attend one of my
seminars where I really go through this lens use.
Q: What's the difference between teleconverters and extension tubes?
A: Teleconverters have glass optics that "magnify" the image. Extension tubes are mere spaces
decreasing a lens' minimum focusing distance.
Q:
Do
I
really
need
an
eyecup?
A: I think so, it acts like a shock absorber minimizing shake and helping in capture sharp images.
Q: I read a lens review on the web which is different from your review, which do I believe?
A: That's strictly up to you! I write from personal experience, shooting with a lens and having
results I can use in my business. There's lots of stuff on the web. I personally don't find a whole
lot I can believe.
Top of Page
Q:
Why
do
you
only
write
good
things
about
Nikon
lenses?
A: I write about the lenses I use in my own shooting and if those lenses aren't any good, I'm out
of business. Nikon manufactures a couple hundred lenses and you'll find only a handful on my
web site To me, that's not writing something nice about every lens.
Q: Do you work for Nikon? Does Nikon give you all of your gear?
A: I do not work for Nikon, they, like other clients who use my images time to time for their
advertising. Nikon does not give me my gear, I buy it like anyone else. Nikon does provide me
gear on consignment for evaluation purposes such as when writing a review. These consignment
periods are normally two weeks.
Q:
Why
do
you
hate
Canon?
A: That's a popular myth that people write because they have nothing to add to the gene pool. I
don't hate Canon or Canon shooters (my best friend is a Canon shooter). I personally don't care
which brand of camera a person uses as I know it's the person behind the camera that counts!
Q: I understand that the D lenses offer advantages when used with flash photography and
the
newer
Nikon
speedlights.
A: Well, you need the "D" lens, flash and N90/N90s or F5 for this to be true.
Q: I am unsure if they offer much advantage with non-flash photography. However, I am
wondering if the new RGB metering system in the F5 changes any of my understandings.
A: The F5's RGB meter requires either an AF-S, AF-I, "D" AF or non-D AF lens to function. You
loose a small portion of the formula with the RGB meter if you don't use a non D lens, but it's not
a big deal.
Top of Page
Q: Should I wait to buy a D version of a lens I am interested in or is there not big
difference
except
for
flash
photography?
A: You need to buy the lens that solves the problems you face in photography. If that's a D lens,
great, if not, so be it.
Q: This point seems to be confusing many people and is causing problems and
confusion. For example, I am interested in the 75-300 zoom but it is not a D lens. I can wait
if
getting
a
D
lens
is
worth
it.
A: I use the 75-300 all the time with the F5, no problems and no loose of technology.
Every time a new body comes on the market, this question arises. New bodies should be kept in
perspective and while true, the F5 will change your photographic life, it's still the lenses that
communicate what we're seeing to others, captures your ideas on film and defines you style in
photography.
Q: Are well-used big Nikkors a good bet; if so, is it worth the extra money to get autofocus
or should I look for an older manual focus lens? (I recently used a friend's 300mm f2.8
and
loved
the
autofocus
feature.)
A: This is a multi-part answer. Right now, there are some great deals on used Nikkor big lenses
that I would hope smart folks are snapping up. I personally wouldn't hesitate for a moment
buying one myself and in fact, my 300f2.8N AF I bought used. Now the question of manual focus
or autofocus is an excellent one. First, in all honestly, if you're not shooting with an F5, don't buy
autofocus because there is no other Nikon body that's going to make it worth your money. The
reason for that is simple, all other bodies except the F5 have just one AF sensor, dead center in
the frame. That's no good!
Q: I have been reading many photography books. And many of them have exposure
settings for every photo. Many of these books are written by pros like John Shaw, Joe
McDonald, Art Wolfe, Moose Peterson, etc. How do these people record all these
settings? Do they keep proper notes for every photo they take? How about for animal life,
I would think there would be no time to take notes and capture a fox running. Or do they
add exposure settings just by experience after they get the slides back?
A: I don't keep track of shutter speeds, but aperture is easy to figure as the vast majority of the
time, I shoot at f/5.6. Under certain instances, I shoot just f/8 and all my scenics are f/22. Having
a set style where the aperture is a given, it is easy to look at the light and determine a rough idea
for the shutter speed based on basic daylight. The real important info is the aperture and not
shutter speed as aperture controls depth-of-field and therefore, what you communicate in your
photograph. I can only of course, answer this for myself. Hope it helps!
Top of Page
Q: I currently use the F4s and a variety of lenses from 20mm to 300mm to record for
stock, mostly subjects of ecological interest such as clear cutting, other types of timber
harvest, replanting, trash in forest, etc.) I rarely make images of wildlife (although some
day...). Do you feel the metering of the F5 is reason enough to consider changing to this
model as my primary camera body? While I don't really need speed (most of the time) and
usually have the time (and take it as well) to argue with myself over method of exposure,
compensation or not, where to meter, etc. I would like to be rid of the nasty little job and
concentrate on compensation and how the final image is to look. Your discussion re: the
3D matrix metering has just about convinced me. I tried a N90s for a while and didn't like
it for my style of work, since my camera ate batteries! and it didn't have mirror lock. I
would be willing to leave behind the "manual" F4 and try auto again if you feel the
metering
is
that
reliable?
A: The fast answer to your question, No. The slow answer has the same outcome but with an
explanation. Whenever a new body is introduced, this debate goes through the head of every
photographer. To buy, or not to buy, that is the question! The F5 provides photographers with a
whole new arsenal that basically do nothing more than eliminate variables in the shooting
process,
mainly
exposure
and
focus.
Now, prior to the F5, did photographers capture incredible images? You bet. Will incredibly
images be captured by the F5 otherwise not possible? You bet. The real question here is really,
will the $3000 for the F5 get your further ahead photographically than $3000 worth of film and
time in the field? I've always said and I'm not changing my song even with my switching to the F5
system, using the big bucks to buy film and time in the field in a better investment the latest
equipment.
Top of Page
Q: You mentioned that the lack of a tripod collar on the 80-200mm f2.8 prevented your
from owning one. Do you feel that for general outdoor shooting that the new tripod collar
version
would
be
the
better
buy,
not
considering
filter
size?
A: I have one sitting on my desk that I've been using for a week now. I really like the new 80200N D AF for a couple of reasons. On the F5 (wouldn't be applicable to other bodies) the two
ring operation is great because zooming by turning while the lens focuses via the F5 works
beautifully. I was photographing flying gulls with the lens and F5 and really love my results. You'll
see the new 80-200 in my camera bag shortly.
Q: I remember reading *somewhere* in one of your recent articles that you had a
preference for one brand of padding/insulation for your Gitzo's legs -- but, I just can't
seem
to
find
the
article.
Am
I
crazy?
A: You might have seen my write up in my Journal on the Op/Tech Tripod Leg Wraps. Really
cool, highly recommend. You can contact them at 888.678.3244. Tell them Moose sent you!
Q: I noticed from your web page that you put either a Tiffen 812 or a Nikon warming filter
on each lens and that they are always on the lens. Do you remove the filters if you put
another filter on the lens such as a skylight or Tiffen Enhancing filter?? If you use more
than one filter on a lens at the same time, does order make a difference?
A: I leave the warming filter on all the time, even if stacking another filter on top of it. Yes, I've
heard it will degrade the image as well. It's one of those things that folks write about not doing
but do all the time. In my case, I tell you I do it because it's a very valid method and technique in
capturing what you see and communicate it to others. That's always the bottom line with me.
Try the Moose Filter, a combination of a warming filter and polarizer.
Top of Page
Q: I read on your Moose's Camera Bag page that the AF of the 80-200/2.8N D AF is really
fast when used with the F5. Most people I have talked to say that it takes about 3-4
seconds for this lens to go from its min. focusing distance to infinity focus.
A: I don't know what to tell you there, I've not had any problems. But then, I don't go from
minimum to maximum to focus on a subject. Whether manual or autofocus, I've always
prefocused so as little focusing must be done to bring an image into tack sharpness with as little
effort, or time required
Q:
What
kind
of
film
A: I use Agfa RSX 100 exclusively. (Digital Film - Lexar)
do
you
use??
Q: My basic question, which I even had 15 years ago - print vs slide film.
A: I use slide, or positive film as that's how the industry is set up for publication and reproduction.
Also, I can't take out a page of negatives, scan them and decide which one is the best, I need to
look at positives, I believe the same holds true for editors.
Q: Which 2x TC would work best on my 300 f4 and would the f stop be too low since that
would
make
it
a
600
f8?
A: The Nikon, but you need to remember that while your effective f/stop is f8, your DOF remains
at f/4. To get the DOF, you'll need to close down, further increasing you effective f/stop.
Top of Page
Moose's Favorite Sites
Photo Industry Web Sites
Nikon USA http://www.nikonusa.com/
Nikon Pro http://www.nikonpro.com/
Nikon Digital Tech Support http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?goingto=dtc_home
Nikon Legends http://home2.nikonnet.com/nikoncentre/archive/legend_archive.html
Nikon Australia LightReading http://www.nikonclub.com.au/lightreading/index.html
Canon USA http://www.usa.canon.com/html/canonindex.html
Canon EOS
http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=111
Digital Darkroom Web Sites
NAPP http://www.photoshopuser.com/
PhotoShop World http://www.photoshopworld.com/
PhotoShopSupport.com http://www.photoshopsupport.com/index.html
Digital Mastery http://www.digitalmastery.com/
Epson http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/index.jsp
Nik Multimedia http://www.nikmultimedia.com/index/usa/entry.php?
Wacom http://www.wacom.com/index2.cfm
GreTag McBeth http://na.i1color.com/
The Russel Brown Show http://www.russellbrown.com
Craigs Actions http://www.craigsactions.com/
Wildlife Information Web Sites
Ecology and Societyhttp://www.ecologyandsociety.org/
Environmental Science Journals http://www.esd.ornl.gov/journals.html
US Fish & Wildlife Service http://www.fws.gov/
NatureServe http://www.natureserve.org/
The Wildlife Sociery http://www.wildlife.org
Bighorn Institute http://www.bighorninstitute.com/
The O.W.L. http://www.aves.net/the-owl/
Biology at UAF http://mercury.bio.uaf.edu/
Nevada Dept of Conservation & Natural Resources http://dcnr.nv.gov/
Carnivore Conservation http://www.carnivoreconservation.org/
Prairie Wildlife Research http://www.prairiewildlife.org/
Top of Page
Photographic Information Web Sites
SportShooter.com http://www.sportsshooter.com/
Rob Galbraith http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/index.asp
B&H http://www.bhphotovideo.com/
Roberts Imaging http://www.robertsimaging.com
Mentor Series http://www.mentorseries.com/
White House News Photographers http://www.whnpa.org/
Editorial http://www.editorial.com/
foto8 http://www.foto8.com/
TheDigitalJournalist http://digitaljournalist.org/contents.html
Poynter Online http://www.poynter.org/default.asp
Top of Page
Photographer's Web Sites
Kevin Dobler http://www.kevindobler.com/
Dave Black http://www.daveblackphotography.com/index.htm
Vincent Versace http://www.versacephotography.com/e1.html
Laurie Excell http://www.versacephotography.com/e1.html
Ken Sklute http://www.kensklute.com/
Lynn Goldsmith http://www.lynngoldsmith.com/
Dan Burkholder http://www.danburkholder.com/
Jan Allinder http://www.wildlifephoto.net/