International Institute of Field Studies 444 Mountain Street, Hinton, Alberta, T7V 1K2, CANADA HIMALAYAN FIELD STUDY PROGRAM (HFSP) – NEPAL A Program of the International Institute of Field Studies (IIFS) in collaboration with The International Center for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD), Kathmandu, Nepal. PROGRAM HANDBOOK Prepared by Sharad C. Karmacharya, Ph.D. Program Coordinator International Institute of Field Studies (For the use of participants only. Not to be copied or circulated) Himalayan Field Study Program in NEPAL A program of the International Institute of Field Studies in collaboration with the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development 1. Group size: 2. Duration: 3. Cost: 4. Program includes: 5. Program does not include: 6. Places to visit in Nepal: 7. Program: Maximum of 20 including leaders. May 2 - 23 (excluding international travel time). $4,900 Cdn. (possible bursary of up to $300 available for students taking this course for credit and writing a paper). Air travel from major Canadian cities; all ground transportation in Nepal; 2 days of rafting; 3 days in wildlife resort; 5 days of trekking; academic program and field visits; hotel accommodation; all meals. Visa fee; airport taxes; telephone/fax/email; any personal expenses (including medical/medicine); alcoholic drinks and beverages, etc. Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur, Nagarkot, Royal Chitwan Nationa Park, Lumbini (birth place of Lord Buddha), Palpa/Tansen, Pokhara, trekking in the Annapurna region, Manakamana. The program includes 10 days of academic program in Kathmandu and 13 days of field trip. a. Academic part: Kathmandu b. Trekking (Annapurna conservation area) c. Wildlife viewing (Royan Chitwan National Park) d. Rafting (Trisuli river) e. Sight-seeing (temple, monasteries, sacred/historical sites) f. Visit government, NGO and Canadian project offices and field sites. For registration and detailed information, write/call/e-mail to: Sharad C. Karmacharya Ph.D. Program Coordinator, IIFS 444 Mountain Street, Hinton, Alberta T7V 1K2 CANADA Telephone: (780) 817-3239 E-mail: sharad.iifs@shaw.ca or himalayan.iifs@shaw.ca 2 ABOUT THE PROGRAM Introduction The International Institute of Field Studies (IIFS), in collaboration with the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD), is offering an environmental field study program in Nepal. The main focus of the program is the study and experience of environmental, developmental, ecological and cultural issues of the Himalayan region of Nepal. The academic component of the program is conducted through a series of seminars, workshops and discussions with international experts and assistance from local experts. Activities include visits to the Institute of Forestry, and other governmental and NGO field activities such as a biogas project, community forestry, watershed management and environmental management. Other activities include trekking in the Annapurna region, rafting on the Trisuli river, an elephant ride to watch wildlife (rhino, tiger, deer) in Chitwan National Park, trip to view Mt. Everest, and visits to temples, monasteries, palaces and other historical international heritage sites. This program is designed for environmental studies students, but it is open to everyone such as teachers, environmentalists, development aid workers and others interested in Himalayan environmental issues. Participants must be in good health, and be open to a variety of cross-cultural experiences. The HFSP is sponsored by IIFS in collaboration with the ICIMOD, a regional international non-governmental organization (INGO) which has its headquarters in Kathmandu, Nepal and will be conducted in the Kingdom of Nepal under the direction and supervision of Dr. Sharad C. Karmacharya, President of International Institute of Field Studies, and an expert in forestry science and environmental economics. The Himalayas Stretching over 2500 kilometres, the Himalayas constitute on of the most complex ecological and cultural system in the World. The Himalayan region, broadly defined, provides the life-support base for some 50 millions mountain people and an estimated 400 million people in the plain. Politically, the Himalayas include Nepal and Bhutan, parts of China, Pakistan and Bangladesh, the border region of northern Myanmar and Thailand, and many diverse parts of India. In the past 30 years, unprecedented political tensions have beset most of the Himalayan region, resulting in a large-scale military presence in many areas, putting special pressures on the ecology of the mountain massif. Culturally, the Himalayas are a region traversed by three of the major linguistic, racial and cultural dividing lines of Asia. In some parts there is predominance of Tibetan 3 Buddhism culture; in others, Hindu, Nepali and Indian culture; and in still others a splattering of Islam and Christianity. These cultures “meet, combine, and collide in the nooks and crannies of the world’s highest mountain mass, creating not so much boundary, border, or buffer, as a zipper which stitches together these densely textured cultural fabrics.” In addition, for centuries, the Himalayas – real or mythic – have held a special sway on the minds and imagination of the people: they are part of the “Sacred geography”, a “landscape of the imagination”, the “abode of Gods” and the “origin and fountainhead of spiritual and poetic fulfillment.” The Himalayas are thus an integral part of the cultural and spiritual heritage of millions of people on the Indian subcontinent. Focus of the HFSP The focus of the HFSP is the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal. Its emphasis is on “field observation.” Hence, all participants are encouraged to do the following: 1. To observe with a variety of people – children, women, officials, doctors, nurses, etc.– life in its various facets; often the various organizers of the Program will act as interpreters and translators. 2. To observe the state of the environment – forest, agriculture fields, sanitation conditions, water supplies, use of energy, etc. – and make notes to be shared with each other and at informal seminars and meetings that are regularly organized for this purpose. 3. To learn about tourism and its social and environmental impacts. 4. To learn about health care systems, family planning programs, childcare schemes and needs, etc. 5. To learn about various development projects, such as road construction, television, cinema, radio and tourism. 6. To understand the social and political pressures on young people for migration to the lowlands. 7. To learn about various environmental or development movements at grass-root levels. 8. To observe the architecture and construction materials of various structures on the way and their relationship to geography and other conditions. The program is directed and supervised by Sharad Karmacharya, Ph.D., and assisted by another co-leader. Both the Program Coordinator and Co-leader will lead the Group for the entire duration of the Program. Participants in the Program are selected on the basis of their academic and intellectual accomplishments, cultural and social adaptability, physical fitness, commitment to learning about the developing countries and willingness to travel in a Group. Logistics of the Program HFSP is conducted in the central Himalayas, in the Kingdom of Nepal. The area of study is environment, development and human ecology of the Himalayas. All travel and other arrangements for the group are made by IIFS, in consultation with ICIMOD, Tourism 4 Nepal, Forest Department, National Parks and Wildlife Department, and the Canadian Cooperation Office. When ever possible, a number of scientists, environmental groups, government officials, foresters, teachers, journalists, healthcare workers and politicians will be invited to meet with the participants in the program to share their views and life experiences, and to lead field visits to specific sites and projects. The Group will under take trekking and hiking trips in the Annapurna range at heights of up to 3,000 metres. The trips are on well-travelled routes. No “mountain climbing” is involved and no special skills are needed. At no stage is anything undertaken that can be considered dangerous or risky. The Group is accompanied by the course coordinator and an associate of the Program, as well as by a leader employed by reputable trekking company who is familiar with the geology, physical geography and life in the region. The trek leader will also act as a translator and interpreter. Most of the ground travelling of the Group will be in a specially hired bus. The trekking company is a private agency in Kathmandu, especially licensed by the government; it also arranges all the meals, overnight stays in tents and transportation of all the baggage during trekking. About the Coordinators and Associates of the Program Sharad Karmacharya, Ph.D. Dr. Karmacharya, a Canadian and native of Nepal, has completed advanced studies in forestry, environmental economics and community development from American Universities, and operates a consulting practice. He has extensive experience in forestry and the environment. He has, among others, undertaken several projects for UNDP, FAO, CIDA, the World Bank, the Nepalese Government and several private firms in Canada. J. G. Campbell, Ph.D. and ICIMOD team of Experts Dr. Campbell is the Director General of the International Centre for integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD), a regional international NGO based in Kathmandu, Nepal , with focus on mountain ecology of the entire Hindu-Kush Himalayan region. ICIMOD is governed by an international board of directors and supported by the governments of countries in the region and countries in Europe and North America. Dr. Campbell has decades of experience in Nepal and the region, heads a staff of professional experts from ICIMOD in various aspects of mountain ecology. Dr. Campbell and the following experts from ICIMOD will provide academic support for the Program: Prof. Li Tianchi (Mountain Risk Engineering); Dr. Duresh Raj Chalise (Mountain Natural Resources); Suraj B. Thapa, Farm manager, Godavari; and Dr. Ya Tang (Agroforestry and soil conservation). Mr. Narayan Poudel Mr. Poudel, Deputy Director General, Department of National Parks and wildlife conservation, will provide support and deliver a talk program on “History of National parks and wildlife management in Nepal and community forestry in wildlife management.” 5 Dr. Narayan Khadga Dr. Khadga, former Chief Advisor to the Prime Minister and VC of Planning Commission, will deliver a talk program on “Politics, Development and Environment in Nepal.” Mr. Krishna Bahadur Shrestha Chief Community Forestry, Department of Forest, will deliver a talk program on History and the present status of Community Forestry Development program in Nepal. Dr. Madhav P. Ghimire Joint Secretary, Foreign Aid Division, Ministry of Finance, will deliver a talk program in Environment and Foreign aid in Nepal. Mr. Kapil Chitrakar Executive Director, C-FORD C-FORD is a forestry consulting form based at Kathmandu. Dr. Binod Bhatta Forestry and environmental education in Nepal. The presenter for the following talk program is yet to be determined: Health and family planning Eco-tourism Hinduism/Buddhism and nature And from representative of the following organizations. WWF FAO of United Nations NGOs 6 PPEPARING FOR THE TRIP All HFSP participants are expected to act in a manner that does not, in any way, hamper the harmonious functioning of the Program or interfere in the life and pursuits of anyone else in the Group. Specially, the following Code of Ethics shall be adhered to: 1. No participants will engage in excessive drinking of alcoholic beverages that may lead to undisciplined behaviour. 2. No participant will consume, buy, sell, exchange or ship any illegal drugs at any time while in the country. 3. All participants are expected to dress appropriately and in a manner that is not immodest, shabby or dishevelled. 4. All participants are expected to be punctual and regular for various academic, social and other engagements. To make a habit of keeping others waiting or not keeping an appointment will be regarded as undisciplined behaviour. 5. All participants are expected to contribute to various activities of the Program. It should be noted that in the past all Groups have worked harmoniously and with great enthusiasm, a sense of cooperation and good will. Preparing for the Trip 1. Documents to bring: A passport is essential. An International Certificate of Vaccination should be kept with your passport at all times. See below for more details. Student or youth hostel cards may help you get occasional discounts. 2. Passport: All foreigners require a valid passport to travel to Nepal, and if you plan to include Tibet, Bhutan, or India, to those countries as well. The passport must be valid for at least for two months after the trip is to end. Make two photocopies of the first page of your passport (the page with passport number, picture and other relevant information). Keep one copy at your home in Canada, and give the other to a coordinator of the Program. All information in this page is crucial in the event of loss of a passport. 3. Obtaining a passport: If you don’t have a passport, or if yours has expired, you can obtain an application form at any Post Office. For a Canadian passport, you need to include two recent photographs, proof of citizenship, the signature of a guarantor (both on the form and on one photo), and the fee (currently $60). 4. Visa for Nepal: In order to enter Nepal, a visa is required. The fee for the visa depends on the length of stay. Nepal has a consulate office in Toronto (Mr. Kundar Dixit, Honorary Consul) where a visa can be obtained (Tel: [416] 4841838) but a visa can also be obtained at the Tribhuban International Airport upon arrival. The visa form can also be obtained from the International Institute of Field Studies office. It is the responsibility of each participant to obtain the visa. You will need two small photographs. (A few copies of additional photographs may come in handy.) If you are planning to extend your trip to India you will have to obtain a visa in Canada itself. Indian consulates are located in Ottawa, Toronto and Vancouver. 7 5. Immunization: Before leaving Canada you should ensure that you have been vaccinated against common tropical illnesses. 6. Medical Insurance: All HFSP participants must make their own arrangements for medical and health insurance during the Program. Blue Cross offers one such plan. You may find it worthwhile to make enquiries regarding this with your present insurance company. Travel Cuts offers travel insurance with medical coverage and may be worth looking into. Call around a number of travel agents who can give you an idea of the types of travel insurance available, their coverage and cost. Blue Cross has a toll-free number: 1-800-688-6262. 7. Property Insurance: All participants must make their own individual arrangements for insuring valuable belongings (camera, laptop computer, tape recorder, etc.). Sometimes these items could be attached as a “rider” on your home insurance policy with an additional premium. Judging from past experiences, having such insurance save a lot of unhappiness in case of loss, damage or theft. 8. Luggage: On international flights you are allowed two pieces of luggage and one piece that can be carried on board, provided it fits in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you. (Check the maximum dimensions and weight allowed by the airlines.) All of your luggage must have a name and address tag on it. It would be advisable to have one inside as well. This very important step should be taken before leaving the country. High value items should be declared upon entry in Nepal. If they are imported items which look new, you should carry a receipt for purchase to avoid headaches at Canadian Customs. 9. Clothing: In summer months, most of southern and central Nepal gets quite hot, and in some places extremely hot. So bring light clothing for the hot days. However, the Himalayas have a very different climate from the lowlands. At the height of 1,500 m (about 5,000 ft.) or more it is never very hot. In fact in the evening it gets quite chilly. June to August is the rainy season, when there can be heavy rains for many hours. The program ends before the rainy season (monsoon) starts, but during the month of May occasional pre-monsoon rains are quite common. So, having a raingear can be very helpful. Since we trek up to the height of 3,000 metres, it can be very cold at night, possibly with temperatures of 5 degrees Celsius. So be prepared. In view of all these weather conditions, in addition to usual personal clothing your travel clothing should include a sweater or pullover, shorts, long skirt/dresses (for women), a light jacket and a warmer jacket (ski jacket), swimwear, walking/hiking shoes, a bush hat or baseball hat, a boy-scout whistle, a mask against dust, and some semi-formal clothing for special occasions. As far as possible, clothes should be washable drip-dry. For emergency washing, a bar of soap would be useful. Take along fairly tough clothes. Dress well and modestly. In general, women participants should avoid too much revealing clothing. During trekking, shorts and sleeveless shirts are generally acceptable. In towns, women are advised to keep their upper arms, chest and back covered at all time. By paying close attention to local standards of dress, many problems can be minimized. When invited for dinner or tea, participants are advised not to be dressed too casually, or in a dishevelled manner. 8 Please always take your shoes off before entering any temple, Stupa, monastery and private home unless instructed otherwise. 10. Other Items: Tents, sleeping bags, mats for sleeping on, spoons, forks and other utensils will all be provided while camping during trekking and rafting. Other personal items to bring: towels; soap; wash cloths; toothbrush and toothpaste; toilet paper and/or tissue; shaving set; items of feminine hygiene for women; insect repellent; sun blocks; water bottle with water purification apparatus or medications; flashlight with extra batteries; plastic sandwich boxes of the Tupperware variety; Ziploc bags; first aid kit; altimeter, compass, binoculars (all optional); large plastic bag for protecting camera, clothing, and other valuables; and snow goggles/sunglasses. During trekking all baggage will be carried by porters; all meals will be cooked by cooks; guidance will be rendered by the Guides; and tents are pitched at campsites by the camping crew. If you don’t wish to share a tent provided by the organizer, you would need to pack your own tent which should be able to withstand fairly cold weather and windy conditions. When trekking, you carry only those items that you may need for 5-6 hours of trekking (e.g., camera, film rolls, toilet paper, journal, reading material, water and special food items, first aid kit, etc.) – this all should not weigh more than 6 – 8 lbs. ( 3-4 kg). When not trekking, we will have our chartered bus. Again, you will not be carrying baggage yourself. In view of the above, a backpack would be most convenient (consider the type that has zip-away or hideaway straps). A small bag for your passport, air ticket, cash, traveller’s cheques and other valuables, with plastic bags to keep them dry and organized, is strongly advised. Before you leave, reinforce your backpack to prevent having to do repairs on the road. Treat it with waterproofing material such as Scotchguard for water repellency. Bring along a repair kit containing safety pins, a sewing kit, and rope or string for emergencies or use as a clothesline. It is also a good idea to bring along few large garbage bags. You can easily slip your pack into one of the garbage bags, protecting it from moisture. Overall, if you think in terms of what one would take on a one or two week camping trip to Jasper National Park in Alberta or Algonquin Park in Ontario, you are probably on the right track. 11. Health Concerns: 1. Shots: To travel in Nepal or any other tropical country, you need certain vaccinations. Travel clinics can advise you as to which vaccinations are recommended and at what intervals before travel they should be taken. 2. Meningococcal meningitis: This shot requires one injection about 4/6 weeks before departure. 3. Typhoid fever: Two injections are required about 4 weeks apart. If you are in a hurry they can be taken as soon as 2 weeks apart, but this is not recommended. 4. Hepatitis A: One injection shortly before travelling. 5. Malaria: Malaria tablets could be obtained by prescription. They are essential. Instructions for use are provided with the tablets. (Other precautions, such as use of mosquito netting or insect repellent are also 9 6. 7. 8. 9. advisable.) However, the Himalayan region we will be travelling in is a relatively low-risk area for malaria. Avoiding dirty needles: A kit of sterile needles and other medical supplies designed to minimize risk of infection for travellers in Third World countries would be helpful. Each participant is also advised to have the following information available: blood type, any health problems, any allergies or reactions to any drugs, name of your family doctor in Canada, medical insurance number, etc. First aid kit: A basic first aid kit should include: Band-aids, gauze pads, cotton bandage, sterile dressing, adhesive tape, antiseptic and burn creams, a low reading thermometer, scissors and tweezers. Medical kit: You may never need it, but you are advised to take along medication for headaches, a general course of antibiotics, a solution to cure severe gastro problems, moleskins (for blisters), UV and blockout (sunburn) cream, lip seal and heat rub for aching limbs. (Refer to: Medicine for Mountaineering, ed. James Wilkerson. Publisher: Mountaineers, Washington, DC.) Sickness prevention: While trekking, it is very important that certain precautions be taken at all times. These are: a. DON’T DRINK WATER from the streams, however “clear” the water may appear. You must use your water purifier all the time, without fail. Bottled water is generally available along the trekking routes but one back-up plan to access pure water is strongly recommended. b. WASH YOUR HANDS thoroughly before each meal, and wash you body every day to counter prickly heat or skin infection (during treks, bathing might not be possible). c. DONT PUT YOUR FOOD (bread, cookies, etc.) on any surface before eating. 12. Some common problems: a. Gastroenteritis: Gastro problems are the main concerns for travellers in Nepal, and particularly for trekkers. Since we will have good deal of control on our food on the treks, we are likely to safeguard ourselves quite well. However, if you should get diarrhea, don’t panic – it happens to almost everyone. Usually bowel movements normalize within 24 hours, and diarrhea should subside within a few days. Remember to keep up fluids, rest sufficiently on the trek and take medicine such as codeine for stomach cramps. b. Altitude sickness: This occurs when a trekker ascends too quickly beyond altitudes of 3000-3500 metres without adequate time for acclimatization. Since our trekking involves only low altitude (below 3000 metres), we should not experience this problem. c. Keeping healthy: Before visiting the Himalayas, a thorough medical check-up is advisable. This is your personal responsibility and should be done without fail. People with a history of chest pain, asthma, bronchial 10 or heart problems are advised not to apply for this Program. A visit to the dentist is also recommended before departure. d. Having made the decision to go to the Himalayas, GET FIT! Jogging, swimming, cycling – in fact any regular exercise is a good preparation. Begin your program of regular exercise at least three months before departure. The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy the Himalayas. It is also equally important to approach the Himalayas with a sound and tolerant attitude. Health instructions will be provided at various points during the trip. Please follow them closely. You have a social responsibility to remain healthy. If you are sick you will hold back the entire Group. 13. Some general notes on health when travelling in Nepal: a. Glasses and contact lenses: Owing to the dust and heat in Nepal, you’d be better off with glasses if you currently wear contacts. It is also hard to keep the lenses clean, and saline solution isn’t fun to cart around. If you do wear glasses, carry two pair in case the one you wear gets broken or lost. Also bring your lens prescription. b. Health suggestions: Keep in mind that the most common illnesses you might encounter are those transmitted through water. Hence, DO NOT DRINK ANY WATER (restaurants included) unless you know it has been boiled for 20 minutes or treated with tablets. The same holds true when you brush your teeth and when taking a shower. Carry with you a spare bottle with you and fill it with known clean water whenever possible. Portable water purifies are also available in Thermos form (e.g., Water Tech water purifier – it is a device the size of a drinking glass which contains a purifying resin that destroys bacteria, viruses and parasites when water is poured through it. Each unit is good for 500 litres of water, or 3300 fillings). (Note: This device has been found to be very useful on the past trips. It is small and portable, two very important considerations for a field trip. Many participants have used the device in the past at a number of streams and water resources without any detrimental effects. IIFS however does not endorse it in any way.) c. It is absolutely essential that every participant has some safe water purifying system at all times and no water is consumed at any stage without the use of this system. The only alternative to this is bottled water which costs 50 cents to a dollar. As you travel away from the town or city centres, bottled water gets more expensive. If you drink pop, don’t drink anything that does not look like it was bottled properly, as it may have been put together in a backyard operation. Don’t drink straight out of the bottles of pop or juice. Use a straw. d. Avoid ice and ice cream. They are particularly notorious for infecting unsuspecting travellers. It may seem tempting to indulge in something cold, but a lot of nasties can survive low temperatures. If everything looks suspicious, go for HOT TEA. e. Don’t eat pre-sliced fruit sold by street hawkers. Thick-skinned fruits (oranges, bananas) are good bets, as they are naturally pre-packaged. 11 f. Be sure to bring a hat (or cap), sunglasses (polarized and ultraviolet [UV] lenses are recommended) and suntan lotion. g. Bring thick woolly socks. Shoes are forbidden in temples and stupas, but socks are allowed. h. Many travellers recommend multi-vitamin pills to supplement your diet, and suggest increasing your protein intake (eggs, peanuts, etc.) if you find yourself somewhat tired. IF YOU FEEL EXTREMELY TIRED, REST! i. Lactobacilus Acidophilus (or Yogurt) capsules are very useful to increase the number of lactic bacteria in your stomach and make you a little more resistant to changes in diet. It is a good idea to start taking these capsules at least once a day six weeks before starting the trip. They can be obtained at any good health or natural food store. j. Power Bars: Some travellers have found these and similar food items very useful and energizing on trekking trips. Some participants may also like to carry with them their favourite snacks, like peanut butter, chocolate, raisins, nuts, almonds, cashews and other such items. Such things are not available on trekking routes in the Himalayas, and you do get very hungry when trekking. k. Medical check-up on return: Make an appointment with your doctor for a complete medical check-up, especially for stomach bacteria, etc. upon your return from your trip. l. Shoes/Boots: It is highly recommended to have a pair of comfortable walking, hiking and trekking shoes/boots. To bring with you new shoes with not much experience is not a very good idea. New shoes should be tried out enough to make sure they are comfortable. Blisters are very common during trekking. One way to avoid them is to have comfortable shoes. Make sure you have something for blister if you get one. 12 TRAVEL INFORMATION Time Nepal is 5 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or 10 hours ahead of Eastern standard time in Canada. This means that 8 PM in Toronto or Ottawa is 6 AM next day in Nepal or when it is 5 PM in Vancouver it is 6 AM next day in Nepal. Electricity Nepal’s electricity runs at 230-240 volts, 50 cycle (50 Hz) AC, which is different from Canada’s 110 volts, 60 Hz AC current. Adapters will be necessary unless your appliance has a two-position “international” switch. Electricity is widely available but black-outs and failures are not unusual. For this reason, battery-powered equipment is more convenient. Money The Nepalese rupee is the basic unit of currency in Nepal. One Canadian dollar is worth about 50 Nepalese Rupees. Participants will need spending money for personal use, such as telephone calls, postage stamps and gifts. Traveller’s cheques in denominations of $20 and $50 are recommended. Keep two copies of numbers on the cheques, one in Canada and one with a friend on the trip. You will need these numbers in case of loss. Many shops accept credit cards for more expensive items in the cities. In small villages and during trekking, cash (Nepalese Rupees) is the only currency that can be used. There is no black market for Canadian or American dollars in Nepal. Even if you are offered a little more for dollar exchange, it is not worth the risk. You are strongly advised to exchange dollars through a bank or authorized money exchange agency. Money Exchange To exchange money or cash traveller’s cheques you need your passport. Also, your signature on the cheques and in the passport must tally closely. In addition you must keep all receipts for exchange of money. You may be asked to present them when leaving Nepal or to convert back Nepalese Rupees to dollars. Please remember that all transactions at the banks and other institutions in Nepal take much longer than they do in Canada, so be patient. Try to exchange as much money at a time as you are comfortable carrying and take many small denomination notes. It is very advisable to carry a light money belt or pouch with you. Money belts made up of canvas or lighter material can be worn inside your clothing around the waist, and so avoid undue attention which a fanny pack or external pouch attracts. Small pouches of canvas/leather that can hang from the neck would also be useful. Film or X-Rays: Despite the reassuring notices next to the X-ray machines at airport security gates, film has been known to fog up after being X-rayed. Whenever possible have your camera and film manually searched and do not let it go through the machine. If you are particularly concerned, lead-lined bags offer some protection. The fogging effect is cumulative: the more times through the X-ray the worse the film may look. Buying film in Nepal is expensive, so bring as many rolls as you need with you. Printing 13 and developing are also expensive, so take the exposed film back home for developing and printing. Taking Pictures Most travellers take usually large numbers of pictures – far more than they expect – so you are advised to take lot of rolls. Pictures to Avoid Many Nepalese are sensitive about foreigners photographing beggars, slums and unsavoury sights, so be highly discreet about this. Don’t take indiscriminate picture of funeral pyres, the inner sanctums of temples or of women. Video Equipment You may take a video camera with you. However, it will be marked on your passport when you enter the country and you must take it back when you leave. You must carry with you a good supply of videocassettes and batteries, as they are not readily available in the Himalayas. The easiest and most convenient camera to take is the one-piece camcorder with a tape transport mechanism built into the body. Food Nepali food is very different from the food consumed in North America; nevertheless, many of the standard items like milk, tea, coffee, fruit, eggs, grains and bread are readily available. Undoubtedly everyone in the Group will get many opportunities to taste and live on Nepali food, but it is imperative that no one feels rushed about it. Do make extra efforts to eat nutritious and satisfying foods. Drinks Chiya or tea is the most popular drink, although it is decidedly different from the tea served in the west. Chiya is usually prepared by boiling water, tea, milk and sugar together; although it is almost addictive once you begin to like it, it may take some getting used to. Western-style tea, with tea, sugar and milk in separate containers, is served at higher price in most relatively fancy restaurants. Coffee and carbonated pop are readily available, as are hard drinks (alcohol) and beer. Things that Fly As in Northern Ontario, you can’t avoid flies and mosquitoes. Coating yourself with insect repellent might help a little bit, but won’t hold them off for long. It may be good idea to take a mosquito net along, however; it is small, easily carried and offers some protection. Remember that mosquitoes are attracted to soap, shampoos, etc. Some people recommend washing in the morning and going to bed with the day’s dirt on to reduce the mosquito bite count. Toilet Most toilets in Nepal are of the “squat” style, although Western-style sit-down toilets are increasingly being used in hotels and cities. Except in hotels with star ranking, you are 14 expected to provide your own toilet paper, which is generally rather expensive in Nepal. It is advisable to carry one or two rolls from Canada. When travelling in the mountains or villages, toilet facilities are almost non-existent. This poses difficult problems for women in particular. Women participants should be aware of this fact and should always carry with them a small wrap-around sheet or long skirt. Tipping As in most countries there are no clear-cut rules in Nepal about tipping in restaurants and other services. In cities and towns a 10 to 15 percent tip is generally expected, and it is equally true of many other services. There are, of course, many other ways of expressing your appreciation for various services and for hospitality – a small gift or a word of thanks are gestures of courtesy and good will. Washing Clothes Laundry facilities are available in most hotel and lodges. They will take your clothes in the morning or evening and bring them back the next day. They are quite expensive. It is a good idea to take along a few clotheslines or lengths of strong nylon-based string for drying clothes. Telephone Calls Nepal’s international call code is 977; the city code for Kathmandu is 1, and for Pokahra it is 61. Telephone charges from Nepal to Canadian cities are quite high, hence it is advisable to make prior arrangements with your family to call you in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Hotel phone numbers will be provided to participants before leaving on the trip. E-mail E-mail facilities are available in most cities in Nepal. So, it is recommended that you have a Hotmail.com or Yahoo.com e-mail address before leaving Canada. Things to Buy Nepal has some very beautiful handicrafts, carpets and all kinds of garments/clothing at most reasonable prices. It might be a good idea to pick one or two pieces here and there instead of keeping everything to buy at the last minute. In and around most tourist sites you will be followed by number of men and women wanting to sell their products. The best way to avoid them if you are not at all interested is not to answer any question (even if it sounds rude) and to avoid eye contact. Any kind of conversation or eye contact will be regarded as your interest in the product. Entertainment All participants are advised to carry some reading material with them, especially for times when moving outdoors may not be possible. Consider bringing one or two paperback novels, a deck of cards and Walkman/CD player. Some board games like checkers, chess and others would be very ideal. Frisbee has always been very popular among the participants and the local people. You may expect others in the Group to also bring a few, so swapping would be possible. 15 Women Participants In general, Nepalese people are gentle and very friendly. They especially enjoy talking to foreigners – both men and women alike. But be careful about getting involved in private conversation with a man by yourself, as this could be considered a turn-on. Open eye contact, too, indicates aggressive interest. The most believable “NO” is to turn away with a certain dignity. It is definitely within your right to tell someone who is hassling you to go away. Do whatever you have to do to protect yourself. Different cultures have different sets of norms regarding personal space, gender, and the relationship between men and women. The idea of men and women being ”just friends” is not one shared by every culture, and so being “friendly” may be taken as an indication of being flirtatious. In general, all participants – men and women alike – are advised to move in groups of three or four, the classic “buddy” system. Losing Something If you lose something, don’t panic, as The Hitch-Hikers Guide to the Galaxy suggests. If it is a valuable or an insured item, then make a report to the local police. They will make out a report. Be sure to get a copy of this. In this report, you give your version of how something was lost, and when was the last time you had it in your possession. If necessary, take someone along to the police station to translate for you. You can take someone from the organizing group or from the hotel or tour organizing staff. IIFS staff will be glad to assist you in any way possible. If it is your passport, and you have lost it when away from Kathmandu, telephone the Canadian Cooperation Office (1- 415- 193/389/391 or Fax 1-410-422), and upon return back to Kathmandu go to its office at Lazimpat, Kathmandu. Airport Tax All travellers have to pay N Rs. 650.00 departure tax at the airport at the time of departure, so be sure to have this money available since it has to be paid by each participant personally. You may exchange dollars at the airport if necessary. Keeping a Journal One of the most rewarding activities that participants can engage in, even those who are not submitting a paper as part of a credit program, is to write about the experience in Nepal for a campus or local newspaper. This is a wonderful means of sharing your ideas and impressions on the Nepalese culture, environment and lifestyle that you experienced. This also allows other persons who might be interested in such a program, or who are just interested, to read about life in Nepal from your perspective. Major Canadian cities Major Canadian cities include Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa, Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Federicton and Saskatoon. 16 Language Nepali is the main language in Nepal, with dozens of other ethnic dialects. Newari is predominant in Kathmandu for the reason that the majority of the population in Kathmandu is of Newari origin, the original inhabitants of Kathmandu valley. English is spoken by many, particularly by the well-heeled and educated, and in the cities. Even though someone may be speaking English, the way the language is used can vary greatly from one culture to another. The following are some very basic Nepali words and sentences to start with: Na-mas-te Ta-pai-lai Tim-lai Ta-pai-lai kasto cha? Ta-pai-ko nam ke ho? Na-mas-te or Feri ve-tau-la Bhok la-gyau Ram-ro Na- ram-ro Hello, Good Morning, Good Evening, Good Bye. You or to you (respectful). You or to you (friendly). How are you? What is your name? Good Bye! I am hungry. Nice, beautiful, bravo! Not nice, ugly. Chi-ya Coffee Pa-ni Bhat Dal Tar-kari Ma-su An-da Cha? Cha Bathroom kaha cha? Ma-lai sancho chaina Ukalo Oralo Thik Cha Thik Chai-na Tea. Coffee. Water. Rice. Lentil soup. Any kind of vegetable curry. Meat. Egg. Do you have? (An-da cha? = Do you have eggs?) Yes, I have. (Cha or An-da Cha = Yes, I have eggs) Where is the toilet? I am not feeling well. Uphill. Downhill. Okay, all right, or I am fine. Not okay, not all right, or I am not fine. 17 Some Recommended Readings: Bista, Dor Bahadur. 1991. Fatalism and Development: Nepal’s Struggle for Modernization. Chamoli, S. P. 1983. The Great Himalayan Traverse – Kanchendzonga to Karakoram. Denniston, Derek. 1995. High Priorities: Conserving Mountain Ecosystem and Cultures. Gerald, John. 1990. Mountain Environments: An Examination of the Physical Geography of Mountains. Goode, P. M., Martin F. Price, and F. M. Zimmerman. 1994. Tourism and Development in Mountain Regions. Ives, J. D. and others. 1994. The Himalayan Dilemma: Reconnecting Development and Conservation. Karan, Pradyumna and Hiroshima, Ishi. 1966. Nepal: A Himalayan Kingdom in Transition. Lall, J. S. (ed). 1981. The Himalaya: Aspects of Change. Savada, A. M. (ed). 1993. Nepal and Bhutan: Country Studies. Stevens, Stanley F. 1993. Claiming the High Ground: Sherpas, Subsistence and Environmental Change in the Highest Himalayas. Wahab, Salah and Pigram, John J. 1997. Tourism, Development and Growth. The Challenge of Sustainability. Note: ICIMOD (www.icimod.org) web site, under publication, has a number of very relevant and interesting articles, reports and newsletters on Nepal and Hindu-Kush region. Furthermore, under links there are other web sites covering number of relevant topics, together with On-line material – books, journals, papers, etc. 18