What Is Indoor Air Quality?
“Through the years, man has built increasingly elaborate boxes to protect
himself from the elements. Designed to keep out the rain and snow, warm
him in the winter and cool him in the summer, he now lives and works
inside these boxes up to 90 percent of the time. Rather than hold
environmental hazards at bay, however, he has trapped himself in a
chemical stew of contaminants that might make him sick, or even kill him.
Buildings don’t always protect their occupants from pollution. Just the
opposite, the molds, fungi, dust and toxic gases on the inside may well
exceed those outdoors. By shielding ourselves from the outside
environment, we have created an inside environment with a whole new set
of problems.”
A healthy indoor environment for a home is one in which the occupants of
the home feel a sense of health and well being attributable to the air that
they breath while in the home. The qualities of good indoor air include:
1. Introduction of fresh air and distribution of adequate ventilation air.
2. Control of indoor contaminants such as Mold Volatile Organic
Compounds (VOC’s).
3. Maintenance of acceptable temperature and relative humidity in an
acceptable manner for occupants.
Polluted indoor air can cause problems and have serious consequences
such as:
A. Repetitious health problems such as coughs, eye irritation, headaches, and allergic reactions.
B. Unacceptable lethargy and feelings of malaise due to discomfort,
stress and increased absenteeism.
C. Accelerated deterioration of furnishings and equipment.
About This Report
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This report was prepared by CALTEX. The purpose of the report is to
provide the reader with information that would be of value to them in their
desire for understanding of mold and its affect on homes and their
occupants.
SUMMARY
Toxic mold is labeled as being the asbestos and lead -paint issue of the
21st century – and for good reason. The health effects of exposure to
concentrations of the mycotoxins produced from some molds are just
beginning to be documented , and the results are startling.
Toxic mold exposure has been linked to many dangerous health issues,
including:
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Allergies
Asthma
Memory Loss
Bleeding Lung Disease
And Death, among others
This report has been prepared and is delivered to you by CALTEX
to be a primer for you as you begin to investigate toxic mold, and make
decisions about this issue and how it relates to your business and We hope
you find the information contained in these pages helpful.
TOXIC MOLD
Historical Perspective
In biblical times, the awareness of people on this matter appears to have
been superior to today.
Leviticus, Chapter 14: 39 – 47
On the seventh day the priest shall return to inspect the house. If
the mildew has spread on the walls, he is to order that the
contaminated stones be torn out and thrown into an unclean place
outside the town. If the mildew reappears in the house after the
stones have been torn out and the house is scraped and plastered,
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it is a destructive mildew and the house is unclean. It must be torn
down - its stones, timbers and all the plaster - and taken out of
town.
Leviticus 14:45
A house desecrated by mildew, mold, or fungus would be a defiled
place to live in, so drastic measures had to be taken.
Leviticus 13:47-50
If any clothing is contaminated with mildew ---any woolen or linen
clothing, any woven or knitted material of linen or wool, any leather
or anything made of leather ---if the contamination in the clothing or
leather, or woven or knitted material, or any leather article, is
greenish or reddish, it is a spreading mildew and must be shown to
the priest. The priest is to examine the mildew and isolate the
affected article for seven days…
Leviticus 11:47
You must distinguish between the unclean and the clean…
The Learning Channel recently aired a program on the Ten Plagues (4/98)
that discussed the theory that the plagues weren't ten separate events, but
one long series of connected events.
The first thing the scholars determined was the time frame. They agreed
on 1260 BC, about a thousand years after the pyramids were built.
Supposedly around that time, the Egyptian life centered around Memphis,
just south of present-day Cairo, and the Israelites were living 50 -80 miles
northeast of there.
The first plague turned the waters to blood, the fish died and the river
stank. The show's contention is that this constituted a local outbreak of
pfiesteria. This is the organism that killed many fish off the coast of North
Carolina recently. The phenomena produces sores on the fish that leak
blood and this, with the red pigment that occurs with some strains of the
organism, would account for the first plague.
Once the fish had died and polluted the water, the next plague --frogs-appeared. Seeing all the fish were dead, there was nothing feeding on the
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spawn and huge groups of frogs would hatch and look to leave the
stinking river. Toads of the specific genus Bufo are supposedly very
common throughout the world and they have large clutches of eggs, so
that the numbers can go up drastically within a short period of time if the
conditions are right. Why the frogs died, however, was not discussed.
Nevertheless, with all the frogs dead, the insect population would explode.
The next plague was of lice. The explanation for this plague was put off as
exactly which insect was meant by the word "lice" was difficult to pin
down. Seeing the classification of insects didn't come about until 1,000
years later, the experts believed that there were too many unanswered
questions to make a definite choice.
They moved on to plague #4, the swarm of flies. They whittled the field
down to 5 possibilities with just one fitting all the criteria --the stable fly.
These types of flies bite and they lay up to 500 eggs at a time.
Next came the murrain on animals, an epidemic of sickness among
livestock. Anthrax was discounted because no humans were infected.
Hoof and mouth disease also was shot down because the tell -tale signs were
not mentioned in the Bible narrative. To get this info they went to a
USDA agency located on Plum Island off of the coast of CT where they
were doing animal research for the Department of Agriculture. The expert
there stated he thought this plague was caused by two different diseases -African horse sickness which strikes quickly and affects horses, mules and
asses, and blue tongue, which is another closely related virus of the same
family, which would attack the cattle, sheep and goats.
Once they had decided on what the murrain was, they discovered that
those two viruses were transmitted by Culicoides, the midge or no-see-um
and this gave them the missing plague of the lice. Elusive plague number
three was identified as the midge which would attack humans and animals,
but would also transmit a disease to the animals, but not to man.
On to plague #6, boils, blains or ulcers. They were looking for something
that would affect both man and humans and found it in an obscure
bacterial infection called "glanders" that could possibly be transmitted by
the stable fly. Apparently this disease was described by ancient Greek and
Roman historians and was even used as a biological warfare agent in
WWI. This disease affects horses, camels, oxen, sheep, pigs and humans
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and causes lymph nodes to expand and oftentimes leads to death.
The Egyptians would have been having a very hard time of it by now (with
the Israelites being spared these local occurrences because they were
situated too far away to have been affected). The food supply was
dwindling as the fish were dead, the cattle were dying and the Egyptian's
last hope was about to be wiped out by the next plague --the hail. This is
not uncommon in the area, but for the Egyptians it was very untimely.
The eighth plague, locusts, would finish off whatever the hail had not
totally destroyed. And to add to their woes, the ninth plague, three days of
darkness which the experts believe to have been a sandstorm, hits the
area. The land is now covered with a layer of sand.
What crops the Egyptians had been able to harvest would have been
hastily stored away in small pits under the desert sand, then the
sandstorm would have created a "blanket" that bakes the stored crops and
increases rotting. This rotting would have produced mold which in certain
conditions can produce mycotoxins. Stachybotrys atra, a mycotoxin
released by black mold in damp areas has been implicated in the deaths
of many children recently in Cleveland. Many homes of the infected
children showed evidence of this mold in the basement caused by water
damage. If this toxin had been present in the grain that was left after the
other nine plagues, it could account for the tenth plague --the death of the
firstborn. Apparently this mycotoxin grows best on cellulose --grains and
cereals --and can kill within hours.
According to the Bible, the eldest customarily receives a double portion.
This may be the reason why the firstborn alone died --he was the only one
who ingested enough of the mycotoxin for it to be lethal. This, however,
does not account for why the firstborn of the animals died. The Jews at
this time, Passover, would have been eating lamb, herbs and unleavened
bread which the experts consider to be safe from contamination.
The show ended by saying: "For Jews, the ten plagues were directed by
the hand of God, but we can begin to see now how that hand may have
moved." It's an interesting hypothesis.
What Is Mold?
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First, one must understand how mold lives. Most mold requires simple
things to exist and colonize. It requires some type of moist intrusion or
humidity, otherwise known as "the wicking effect." In some cases, it can
take as little as 24 hours for this process to begin.
After the source of the moisture has stopped, it does not mean that the mold
has stopped growing. Some molds are cryophytes (these adapt to low
temperatures), some are thermo tolerant (they adapt to a wide range of
temperatures) and some are thermophiles (they adapt to high temperatures).
Depending on the species, these microbes will grow just about anywhere.
Mold requires a compatible temperature for each species. Environmental
factors (temperature, nitrogen, oxygen, etc.) are necessary compounds for
indoor molds to thrive.
Mold also needs an organic source of food. People might be confused as
mold can grow on glass, tile, stainless steel, cookware, etc. but it is
generally feeding off of some organic source deposited on this material
(oils, films, dirt, skin cells, etc.). The fiberglass insulation people like to say
that mold does not grow on their product which is a fairly true statement,
however, it grows on the organic debris that become trapped in their
products. Mold also grows on things such as wood, fabric, leather,
gypsum, fiberboard, drywall, stucco, and many insulation fibrous
materials.
All molds require some form of moisture to grow. However, like
temperature , the amount of moisture varies for different species. Some
are xerophillic (colonize under very dry conditions) some are xerotolerant
(colonize under a wide range of moisture levels) and some are hydrophilic
(colonize at high moisture levels). It doesn't have to be a leak. Humidity or
moisture content of the substrate can often be sufficient (relative humidity
over 50% start becoming problematic in many indoor cases.) It can spread
very easily through any HVAC system.
Mold consists of long, highly branched thread -like linear groups of cells
that intertwine to form the fungus body. These threads can penetrate
many materials, but especially common building materials such as drywall,
wallboard, carpeting, and insulation. Mold usually requires a water source,
habitable temperatures, and ample nutrients to grow. Humidity levels
greater than 50% are considered a water source. A temperature range of
40 to 100 degrees F is prime for mold growth.
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Like all living things, molds are designed to reproduce. The "seeds of
mold" are called spores, which are very tiny (roughly one -half the width of
the tip of a human hair), and in other than very high concentrations,
odorless. Mold spores travel much the same way that dust travels, and if
you're like most people, you have dust in your home.
Many types of mold spores have a protective substance on them called
mycotoxins. The role of mycotoxins is to protect the spore from other
vegetation that might harm it. Unfortunately, mycotoxins, which are also
neurotoxins (a toxin that is determined to cause neurological damage) are
harmful to human beings.
The most common forms of harmful mold are:
1) Stachybotrys
2) Aspergillus
3) Penicillum
Stachybotrys is the one with the most media hype. People who are
exposed to high concentrations of this mold often experience health
problems (headaches, bloody noses, respiratory illnesses, etc.). Just as
bad as this type of mold are Aspergillus and Penicillum. These too can
cause immediate respiratory problems, not to mention other serious health
effects.
Mold Exposure In The Media
Toxic mold will soon become a household phrase, similar to what
asbestos was in the latter part of the 20th century. Insurance companies
are under siege with claims from homeowners, and the problem could cost
billions to clean up.
December 3, 1999 - The cover story of the USA Weekend insert to
Sunday newspapers across the country is entitled: "The Mold in your
Home May Be Deadly."
March 2, 2000 - Dan Rather and CBS' 48 Hours present a program
entitled "Invisible Killers" - which is a story on the hazardous effects of
mold exposure in your home.
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December 4, 2000 - Newsweek magazine prints an article entitled: "A
Hidden Health Hazard. Sneezing and sniffling? Maybe the problem isn't a
cold but mold. It's more dangerous than you think."
June 2001 - A Texas jury awarded a family $32 million when they claimed
mold in their home caused them to have neurological problems.
August 12, 2001 - The New York Times Sunday Magazine features a
cover story entitled: "Lurking, Choking, Toxic - Haunted By Mold."
April 2002 - ABC News reports that Ed McMahon filed a $20 million
lawsuit against his homeowner insurance company claiming the insurance
company botched a simple repair on a broken pipe. As a result, he says, a
black toxic mold spread through his 8,000 -square-foot, six -bedroom
Beverly Hills mansion causing him physical injuries and emotional duress.
August 2001 – Mealey’s Online, an online publication targeted to lawyers,
states that according to a recent Wall Street Journal article, Farmers
Insurance, which has 7% of the U.S. homeowners insurance market,
estimates that mold claims will cost it $85 Million 2001 alone.
April 2001 – GP Solo Magazine reports on the legal aspects in California
and other states of property damage and personal injury claims arising
from microbiological agents found in structures.
November - 2001 – Risk Management Magazine reports that toxic mold is
an emotionally charged issue that has created a public frenzy over its
potential health impact.
Health Effects Of Mold
We live in a veritable "mold soup", with mold spores constantly around us
and in the air that we breath. Under normal circumstances, natural
cleansing mechanisms in our bodies and in the indoor and outdoor
environments control the concentration of mold to acceptable levels.
However, water leaks that occur in homes and offices that are not cleaned
up promptly, or correctly, almost invariably become breeding grounds for
mold. This is why interstitial walls, attics, and floor underlayment are
frequently found to contain higher concentrations of mold.
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All molds have the potential to cause health effects. These health effects
generally fall into three categories:
1) Allergic
2) Infectious
3) Toxic
The severity of the effects experienced by human beings is based on a
combination of the health of the persons immune system, the type of
mold, and the concentration of the mycotoxins produced by the mold.
The following is a comprehensive list of the most common health effects
and maladies associated with exposure to toxic mold.
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Allergies Flu-like
Symptoms
Epileptic -like
Seizures
Upper
Respiratory
Distress
Asthma Trouble
Breathing
Bloody Noses Irritation Of The
Eyes, Nose or
Throat
Skin Rashes Coughing Loss of Eyesight Restlessness
Fatigue Sinus
Congestion
Loss of Hearing "Crawly"
Feeling Skin
Depression Nausea Loss of Memory Chronic
Headaches
Unexplained
Irritability
Sneezing Runny Nose Arthritic-like
Aches
Equilibrium Or
Balance Loss
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Organ
Infestation
Dizziness Or
Stuffiness
Death
Stachybotrys
Stachybotrys Chartarum is a greenish to blackish
fungus that is found throughout the world, and is most
abundant in habitats where the humidity exceeds 50%.
This fungus needs only three things to thrive:
1. Moisture
2. Oxygen
3. Materials High In Cellulose (like wallboard,
carpet, wood, paper, insulation)
Stachybotrys can be dangerous to humans because it creates toxic
chemicals called mycotoxins. Mycotoxins can cause non -specific health
problems in humans and pets. Some of these are:
1. Eye Irritation,
2. Headaches
3. Skin Irritations
4. Allergies
5. Asthma
6. Nasal Stuffiness
7. Sore Throats
Some severe reactions that some professionals have linked to
Stachybotrys include:
1. Memory Loss
2. Nosebleeds
3. Aches
4. Fever
Also, people with chronic illness or damaged immune symptoms could
develop mold infections in their lungs. Individuals with persistent problems
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should see their physician.
If you suspect that you have mold in your home or business, or, if you
have any of the symptoms listed, you should have your habitat
professionally inspected.
Professional inspection and laboratory testing is the most certain way to
know what type, where , and in what concentrations you have mold in your
environment. The professional inspection will include:
1. A Visual Inspection
2. Moisture Content Testing of Suspect Areas
3. Photos of Visible Mold
4. Air Sample Testing For Airborne Spores
5. Interstital Wall Testing For Mold Growing In Wall Cavities
6. Carpet And Furniture Testing
7. Accredited Laboratory Identification Of Mold Type and
Concentration
8. Professional Report
Home Toxicity
The only way to find out if your home or office is toxic due to mold is to
have it tested. The most definitive way to do this is to have a Caltex
technician take mold samples and to have an accredited laboratory analyze
the samples to see what type of mold you have and in what concentrations.
The technician will then review the results, and prepare a thorough
assessment of the mold influences. Additionally, and if this is warranted, the
technician will also create a remediation plan that describes how to clean up
the mold and make your home healthier.
Mold Scams
Because the mold industry is so new, it is currently unregulated and
unlicensed. Because the demand for mold testing and mold remediation is
so high, there do exist, unfortunately, mold scammers who want to
separate property owners from their money rather than from their mold
problems.
To avoid being a victim of a mold scam, if you have a possible mold
problem, please hire a Certified Indoor Air Quality Technician, Certified
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Mold Inspector , Certified Mold Contractor , or Certified Mold Remediator .
You’ll be happy to know that every technician working fo r The Mold
Consultants has at least one of these certifications.
Here are several of the leading mold scams . . .
Insurance Companies and Insurance Adjusters as Scammers
Here are several mold frauds perpetrated by insurance companies and
insurance adjusters--1. Hiring incompetent, low -paid, company -stooge testing personnel to do
the least possible mold testing in the least likely mold -locations in an
insured's property so that any actual mold is NOT likely to be
discovered.
2. Utilizing ineffective Air -O-Cell mold testing media so that little or no
mold will be discovered. Air -O-Cell cassettes test too small of an air
sample to give a truly accurate insight into a property's real mold
infestation problems. Direct sampling of visible molds and mold culture
plates are vastly superior to Air -O-Cell technology in determining the
extent of mold problems in a property and in identification of the molds
present.
3. If the testing stooges uncover any mold problems, the serious mold
test results are not to be shared with the insured’s and are to be kept a
complete secret forever from the insured’s [this common insurance
company fraud is one of the causes of actions in the $20 million Ed
McMahon lawsuit against his homeowner's insurance company.
Two insurance stooge testing and remediation companies. The
McMahon defendants kept secret mold test results showing a serious
mold infestation in the McMahon residence of the deadly mold
Stachybotrys.
4. Telling insured’s that there is no mold insurance coverage even though
there is evidence that insurance -covered water damage is the direct
cause of the resulting mold infestation.
House Cooking
House cooking is when the mold scammers introduce large numbers of
mold spores into the home or other building, and then increase the
temperature and humidity [e.g., shut off air conditioning, close windows
and run humidifiers full blast] to cause high levels of detectable mold to
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justify expensive mold remediation work
Fraudulent Mold Testing
The mold scammers will bring back mold test results showing big time mold problems in the property. Unfortunately the mold samples are
NOT actually from the home but are, in fact, samples that had been
intentionally infected [inoculated] with large amounts of mold species from
other locations or from mold collections maintained by
the scammers.
Mold Remediation Shortcuts
Many fraudulent mold remediation jobs end with the mold problems as
great or greater than before the remediation work was done because of
shortcuts taken by the mold scammers and because of flawed remediation
techniques, procedures, and techniques utilized by the mold scammers
who only care about getting the money, rather than solving a customers
mold crisis. One big shortcut is that many mold remediators often rely on
ineffective but cheap chlorine bleach as an alleged mold killer. See the
discussion on chlorine bleach below.
TESTING YOUR HOME
How To Test Your Home
Mold spores are found everywhere in our environment, and we are
constantly exposed to them. High concentrations of any mold in living or
work environments must be considered unacceptable because of possible
health problems and structural damage. If mold is present, it is important
to find out what kind and how much.
WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO SAMPLE AND TEST FOR MOLD?
When a building is tested for mold, the purpose is to find out what type of
mold is in the building and if the mold is being amplified (growing).
Environmental testing for mold is a three part process: Caltex dealer
collects samples (sampling), the laboratory analyzes the samples
(testing), and the Caltex Dealer interprets the laboratory results and develops
an appropriate remediation plan, if necessary.
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PHYSICAL FACTORS: Modern construction methods that tightly
seal homes and hold in moisture can encourage mold growth.
Many commonly used construction materials are good media for
mold to grow on (wood, drywall, insulation, etc.). Growing mold can
threaten the structural integrity and finished surfaces of a home.
Mold can literally "eat" the house. About 35% of all properties suffer
water infiltration each year.
HEALTH FACTORS: Many of the thousands of common molds
cause people to experience allergy symptoms such as runny nose
or wheezing. Some molds may cause more severe problems such
as irritation of the lungs and fugal infections in persons with
immune problems. A few highly toxic species can affect anyone,
causing severe nerve and skin reactions, and even death.
ECONOMIC FACTORS: The value of a home can be decreased
enormously by the threat of disease and structural damage by
mold. Clean up in severe cases can be very expensive, up to and
including the value of the home. These factors, combined with new public
awareness along with demands by insurance and mortgage companies, have
created a need for mold sampling and remediation.
"RED FLAGS" WHICH SUGGEST MOLD SAMPLING AND
TESTING IS NEEDED
About 70% of all buildings will exhibit "red flags". "Red flags" are
conditions that lend suspect to the presence of mold. These "red flag"
condition s are generally:
VISIBLE MOLD: Visible mold comes in many colors (red, orange,
black, white, etc.). Mold of any kind should not be growing in any home
or work area.
1. Discolored spots in areas
2. "Hairy" covering on surfaces similar to white or green on fruit or
bread
3. Slimy surfaces
MOISTURE: Mold grows where there is a moist environment. Mold
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may be growing within or behind wet materials in the building. The first
indication that you need to sample and test for mold is the discovery of
any water related structural or design problem such as:
1. Evidence of water penetrating the home (stains, moist areas,etc.)
2. Evidence of any area that might allow water penetration
3. Actual construction defect or deterioration allowing water
penetration
4. Plumbing defects (leaky drains , pipes or toilet seats, bad
caulking, etc.)
5. HVAC problems (dirty, moist filters, poor condensation
drainage)
6. Dryer vented indoors
7. Inadequate ventilation for bathrooms, laundry, spas, hot tubs,
etc.
SENSITIVITY: Human senses are a valuable tool in discovering mold.
1. If you think there is a musty odor, there may be mold present.
2. If you think a room has a damp atmosphere, there may be mold
growth
3. If occupants complain of allergy -type symptoms which seem to
increase while in the home, this may be caused by mold.
Home Test Kits
Stated as briefly as possible - Avoid Them.
There are many reasons why the mold test kits that you can purchase at a
home supply store or on the Internet should be avoided.
Over-The-Counter/Web And Into The Trash: Over-the-counter/Web
mold test kits produce highly inconsistent results. When testing for mold in
your home or office, precision and accuracy are very important to
comprehensively assess the type, location, and concentration of mold.
Store and web purchased mold test kits are neither as accurate, nor as
precise, as the testing that is done by highly skilled technicians using
expensive sampling equipment. Don't let the claims of some merchants
deceive you -- No skilled mold technician would ever rely on the test
results from a sample taken by an over -the-counter/Web product to
comprehensively assess the indoor air quality of a residence or office.
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False Readings The Advertisers Don't Tell You About: Advertisers of
over -the-counter/Web products won't tell you this, but they have a very
high rate of false readings -- meaning that samples sent in to the lab for
analysis cannot be processed for one of a number of reasons.
Limited Number Of Molds Tested: Most over -the-counter/Web mold test
kits only test for a limited number of species of mold -- in some cases, only
four. There are hundreds of different molds in existence, and more are
being discovered every day.
Incomplete: Over-the-counter/Web mold test kits employ one of a number
of different mold sampling techniques. One. A skilled technician will use
several different types of sampling techniques in the course of an
investigation, with the decision about which to use in any given
circumstance being based on the technician expert knowledge. Having
available these different techniques allows the technician to apply
accuracy, precision, skill, and technique to the process of sampling.
Imprecise: Over-the-counter/Web mold test kits produce results that are
incomprehensive at best, and clearly fail to provide results comparable to
those developed when a certified professional technician uses precision
equipment. One style has you lay a petri dish in the middle of the room for
a certain period of time and hope that airborne mold spores land in the
dish. Another style has you hook up a device to the end of your household
vacuum cleaner to act as a pump to pull air through a filter. And still
another style has you place a piece of sticky -tape on the visible mold, and
then stick the piece of tape on to a microscope slide. Each of these
methods is incomprehensive at best, and possibly dangerous to providing
the laboratory with a full set of samples by which they can accurately
determine the type, location, and concentration of mold.
Sampling Definitions
When sampling, the following definitions are significant:
Fumes – Solid particles generated by condensation from the gaseous
state, generally volatilization from molten metals.
Mists – Suspended liquid droplets generated by condensation from the
gaseous to the liquid state or by breaking up a liquid into a dispersed
state, such as by splashing, foaming, or atomizing.
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Gases – Normally formless fluids which occupy the space or enclosure
and which can be changed to the liquid or solid state only by the combined
effects of increased pressure and decreased temperature.
Dusts – Solid particles that are capable of temporary suspension in the air
or other gases. Usually produced from larger masses through the
application of physical force.
Vapors – Gaseous form of substances that are normally in the solid or
liquid state (at room temperature and pressures).
Sampling Background and Types
There are a number of different types of sampling techniques, each is
useful in specific situations. The types of sampling techniques are:
Bulk – This involves removing a sample of the mold -infected material (i.e.
coating paper from drywall, carpet, etc.)
Swab – This involves dabbing a swab onto the area of suspected mold
contamination and testing the material adhering to the swab tip.
Tape – This involves placing a piece of clear tape on the area of
suspected infestation of mold and extracting some of the suspect material
with the sticky side of the tape.
Andersen N-6 – This involves extracting suspected mold spores from the
air with an air extraction device and isolating and identifying the captured
spores.
Spore Trap – This involves laying a petri dish containing a supply of lab quality food in an air space for a sufficient period of time so that airborne
mold spores can fall into the dish and begin to concentrate and multiply on
the food source.
Wall Check – This involves drilling a small hole through wallboard,
inserting a tube connected to a pump that has a filter, and extracting a
precise amount of air from the wall cavity over the filter, with the filter
capturing the material extracted from the air.
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The purpose of sampling is to:
1. Provide information regarding the type and relative quantity
of “hazards” present
2. Document airborne concentrations
3. Document a settled containment
4. Assist in finding the source of containment
Comparing Sampling Types
Sampling Type Pros Cons
Bulk
 Inexpensive
 Rapid Spore Identification
 Can Speciate
 Destructive
 Doesn’t Relate To Airborne Exposure
 Can Be Difficult To Sample
Swab
 Inexpensive
 Non-destructive
 Rapid Spore Identification
 Doesn’t Relate To Airborne Exposure
 May Not Be Quantitative
 May Miss Organisms
Tape
 Inexpensive
 Rapid Spore Identification
 Convenient To Hold/Ship
 Cannot Be Cultured
 Is Not Quantitative
 Tape Pressure Can Deform Spores
Andersen N-6
 Can Sample For Fungi And Bacteria
 Related Directly To Airborne Exposure
 Can Speciate
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 Equipment Is Expensive
 Sampling Is Time Consuming
 Sampling Is Cumbersome And Noisy
Spore Trap
 Cassettes Are Easy To Store
 Cassettes Have A Long Shelf Life
 Provides Semi – Quantitative Results
 Gives Rapid Results
 More Expensive Than Other Methods
 Sampling Is Time Consuming
 Sampling Is Cumbersome
 Can Not Do Bacteria
Wall Check
 Cassettes Are Easy To Store
 Cassettes Have A Long Shelf Life
 Provides Semi –Quantitative Results
 Gives Rapid Results
 Can Identify Molds Hidden In Wall Cavities
 More Expensive Than Other Methods
 Sampling Is Time Consuming
 Sampling Is Cumbersome
 Can Not Do Bacteria
 Requires A Small Hole Be Drilled In The Wall
CLEANING YOUR HOME OF MOLD
How To Remove Mold And Mildew
When the weather is damp, you may find items in your home that have
musty odors and mildew stains. Once you find mold and mildew spots,
remove them as soon as you can. Old stains are very hard to remove.
To remove mold and mildew stains from fabric:
1. Brush off the entire mold. If you can, take the item outside to do
this.
2. If you cannot take the item outside, use a stiff brush or broom and
brush the item over a piece of newspaper. Then, roll up the paper
19
and throw it away.
3. If the mildew is on a carpet, vacuum to remove as much as you
can. Throw the vacuum cleaner bag away after vacuuming the
mold.
4. Dry-clean materials that can not be washed. Be sure to point out
spots to the cleaners.
Wash clothing at once with laundry soap and water. Rinse well, but
dry in the sun, not the clothes dryer. Heat from the dryer may make
spots harder to remove.
If a stain remains, try to:
1. Soak in a laundry pre-soak product.
Use:
Bath tubs, shower stalls, tiled floors and bathroom walls often have
mildew. Use a brush. Scrub with a mixture of 2 to 4 cup of Calbrite
1 gallon of water. Wear water -proof gloves to protect your hands.
An old toothbrush works well on grout. Soak plastic shower curtains in a
solution of Calbrite solution and water. Then wash.
Upholstery, mattresses and rugs should be cleaned using as little water
as possible.
1. Brush off mold. Shampoo lightly with an upholstery shampoo, or
use a rug shampoo on carpets. Calbrite can be added to the solution.
2. Wipe with a damp cloth. Dry in the sun, if possible, or use a fan.
Spray with a fungicide spray.
Luggage and leather shoes should be aired and dried after brushing off
mold. Make a mixture of 1 cup denatured alcohol and 1 cup water. Dip a
cloth in this mixture and wring it out. Rub mildew spots gently. Dry well.
You can also use saddle soap. Dry and air well before storing.
Remove the odor of mildew as soon as you can. Brush the area. Then
wash and dry well. The odor often goes away when the area is dry. You
may wish to spray with Calbrite.
Prevent Mildew In Your Home
20
You may first notice mildew by its musty odor. It leaves an ugly black stain
which can rot fabric, leather and paper. And it can cause problems for
those with allergies.
Mold and mildew are often found in basements, crawl spaces, closets,
showers and under beds. They will grow wherever it is damp and warm,
and there is little air movement.
Mold and mildew are hard to remove, but not hard to prevent. Since they
are tiny plants, you must make it hard for them to grow. To keep your
home free from mold and mildew:
Keep things and places clean. Even small amounts of dirt or dried food
will help mildew grow. Keeping closets, drawers, walls and clothing clean
will prevent many mildew problems.
Keep things dry. At the first sign of mildew, find the source of moisture. Is
it from a leak in the basement or roof or a spill? To keep your home dry:
1. Wipe down shower walls after taking a shower.
2. Cover pots while cooking.
3. Use air conditioning to remove moisture from the air.
4. Vent the clothes dryer to the outside of the house.
5. Use exhaust fans in the kitchen, utility room and bathroom.
6. Waterproof the basement. Seal any cracks in the foundation.
7. Spread heavy plastic or roofing paper over 80 percent of your crawl
space to control dampness.
Be sure you have air movement in all areas.
1. Open windows to let outside air in, if the weather is nice.
2. Use a fan, even in the winter, to move the air.
3. Leave closet doors and dresser drawers open sometimes.
4. Be sure clothing is dry when stored. Hang it loosely in the closet.
5. Store items where they will not get damp.
6. Don't put furniture tightly against the wall.
Dry the air.
21
1. Heat the air in closets by keeping a light bulb burning, if there is
one in the closet.
2. Use a heater, or turn on the furnace if the house is damp.
3. Use a dehumidifier.
4. Use chemicals such as Silica gel to absorb moisture. Place on a
closet shelf or hang in a cloth bag to absorb moisture. Keep out of
the reach of children.
Keep fabrics clean and dry.
1. Dirty clothing should be dry before putting it into the hamper.
2. Wash or dry clean clothing or household items before storing them.
3. Store clothing in a warm, dry place.
4. Stretch shower curtains out to dry after taking a shower.
5. Don't put damp clothing on the floor, especially a cement floor.
6. Air tents and sleeping bags before storing.
Protect with a mildew-resistant finish. Cotton items like awnings and
tents can be treated with Calbrite (chemicals to make them resistant to
mildew) before using them.
Protect leather goods by applying a paste -wax shoe polish or saddle
soap.
1. Store shoes, purses and suitcases in closets, not in basements.
2. Never put shoes or leather items away damp.
How To Prevent And Remove Mildew – Home Methods
Mildew can be found on many different surfaces. It is a thin, black, or
sometimes white, growth produced by mold. Molds are simple plants
belonging to the group known as fungi. Though molds are always present
in the air, those that cause mildew need moisture and certain
temperatures to grow. They commonly develop in humid summer weather,
especially in closed houses.
These molds grow on anything from which they can get enough food. In
homes they develop most often on cotton, linen, rayon, silk, wool, leather,
wood and paper. Many synthetic fibers resist mildew.
22
Molds that cause mildew flourish wherever it is damp, warm, poorly lighted
and/or where air is not circulated — in cellars, crawl spaces of houses
without basements and clothing closets. It can also be found on draperies
and rugs in basement recreation rooms, on shower curtains and on damp
clothes rolled up for ironing. These molds are also likely to grow in a new
house because of moisture in the building materials.
As the molds grow, they cause considerable damage. They leave a musty
odor; they discolor fabrics; and sometimes they eat into them until the
fabrics rot and fall to pieces. They also discolor leather and paper.
Preventing Mildew
Keep things clean
Keep closets, dresser drawers, basements — any place where mildew is
likely to grow — as clean as possible. Soil on dirty articles can supply
enough food for mildew to start growing when moisture and temperature
are right. Greasy films, such as those that form on kitchen walls, also
contain many nutrients for mildew -causing molds.
Clean clothing is less likely to mildew than soiled clothing. Because most
synthetic fibers, such as acetate, acrylic, polyester and nylon, are resistant
to mildew, clean fabrics of these fibers will not support mold growth. But
even on these fabrics, soil may supply food to start mildew. Clean all
soiled fabrics thoroughly, regardless of fiber type to help prevent them
from mildewing.
Get rid of dampness
Mold spores are present in the air and may settle onto surfaces if there is
sufficient moisture. A damp basement, or any other structure, is often caused
by moisture condensation from humid air onto cooler surfaces. Excessive
moisture may indicate that repairs or additional insulation are needed.
Replace cracked or defective mortar. Some basements are continually wet
from water leaking through crevices in the wall. Make sure outside drainage
is adequate. For waterproofing concrete and other masonry walls above
ground, apply two coats of cement paint, tinted with mineral coloring if
desired. Waterproofed coatings to seal absorbent brick and other outside
surfaces may be needed. Spread a layer of moisture -barrier material over the
23
soil in crawl spaces under houses. You can use heavy roofing paper or
polyethylene plastic film. Good ventilation is important. If possible, do not
enclose the crawl space. In extreme cases, a fan or blower may be needed to
move the humid air from under the building.
If your clothes dryer is equipped with a vent, have it exhausted to the
outside to remove moist air.
Dry the air
Air conditioners and dehumidifiers. Cool air holds less moisture than warm
air. Properly installed air -conditioning systems remove moisture from the
air by taking up warm air, cooling it (which removes the moisture) and
circulating the cool, dry air back into the room. In rooms that are not air conditioned — especially the basement — mechanical dehumidifiers are
useful. A humidistat can be attached to the unit to control the humidity.
Mechanical dehumidifiers, however, can add heat to a room.
When using air -conditioners or dehumidifiers, keep windows and doors
closed.
Heat
Get rid of dampness by heating the house for a short time. Then open
doors and windows to let out the moisture -laden air. An exhaust fan may
be used to force it out. Air in closets and other small areas can be dried by
using an electric light continuously (60 - to 100 -watt bulb). The heat will
prevent mildew if the space is not too large.
Circulate the air
Air movement is excellent at removing moisture. When the air outside is
drier than that inside, ventilation allows the dry air to enter, take up excess
moisture and then be carried outside. When natural breezes are not
sufficient, you can use electric fans placed in a window, set in a wall or
vented to the attic to move air from the house.
Poorly ventilated closets get damp and musty during continued wet
weather, and articles stored in them are apt to mildew. Try to improve the
air circulation by opening the closet doors or by installing a fan.
24
In addition, hang the clothes loosely so that air can circulate around them.
Dry all wet clothing (including clothes wet from rain or perspiration) before
putting it in the closet.
Cooking, laundering, and bathing may add 2 gallons (7.6 liters) or more of
water a day to the house, un less circulation is adequate. It is often
necessary to use some type of exhaust fan.
Get rid of musty odors
Musty odors, which indicate mold growth, are sometimes noticeable in
basements and shower stalls. Take special precautions to get rid of musty
odors as soon as possible to prevent further objectionable and damaging
mold growth. Usually musty odors disappear if the area is well heated and
dried. If the odors remain, the following treatments may be necessary:
In basements, use Calbrite to remove musty odors. Spray the calbrite
floor and let it stay until all mustiness disappears. Then wipe or wash it up.
On cement floors and on tiled walls and floors in bathrooms, get rid of
mustiness by washing with calbrite. Rinse with clear water
Keep windows open until walls and floors are thoroughly dry.
Preventing Mildew On Clothing And Household Fabrics
Keep fabrics dry. Never let clothing or other fabric articles lie around damp
or wet. Dry soiled clothes before putting them into the hamper. Wash out
dishcloths and hang them to dry. Spread out washcloths and damp towels.
Stretch out wet shower curtains. It is the wet curtain left bunched together
or sticking to the wall or tub that is most likely to mildew. Sprinkle only as
many articles as can be ironed in a day. Shake out and dry those not ironed.
Dry washed garments and fabrics thoroughly and quickly. Fabrics dried
slowly may get sour and musty smelling — a sign of mold growth.
.
Preventing mildew on unpainted wood
In damp, warm, poorly ventilated areas, surface mold often develops on
wooden parts of buildings. The new, unseasoned lumber is particularly
susceptible to mildew
Preventing mildew on painted wood
25
Indoor wood surfaces covered with softer coatings and paints mildew very
easily. Molds feeds on the oil and minerals in the paint and cause a dirty looking discoloration. It may penetrate the paint film deeply, even to the
underlying wood. Clean with 100 percent Calbrite and use Ion mold in the
paints or sealers.
.
Preventing mildew on paper and books
In damp summer weather, keep papers and books as dry as possible to
help control mold growth. If you have an enclosed bookcase , keep a small
electric light lit continuously in the bookcase or use a chemical
dehumidifier. To clean books with mold take them outside and dry.
Removing Mildew
Clothing and household fabrics
Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Do not give the
mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any surface
growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in the house. Sun
and air fabrics thoroughly . Dry clean non washable articles.
Wash mildew-stained articles at once with soap or detergent and water.
Rinse well and dry in the sun.
Upholstered articles, mattresses and rugs
First, remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered articles,
mattresses, rugs and carpets by brushing with a broom. Do this outdoors
to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house.
Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to draw
out more of the mold. Remember that the mold spores are being drawn
into the bag of the vacuum cleaner. If the appliance has a disposable bag,
remove and dispose of it immediately. If not, empty the bag carefully
(preferably outdoors) to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article — use an electric
heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the article to stop the
26
mold growth.
If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge lightly
with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean, damp cloth. In
doing this, get as little water on the fabric as possible so the filling does
not get wet .
Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it with a
cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to
1 cup water). Dry the article thoroughly.
Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo and 25
percent calbrite. Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened
with clear water.
Dry in the sun if possible.
Leather goods
To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth moistened with
diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup wate r). Dry in
a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with thick suds made from a mild
soap or detergent, saddle soap.
Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop
unpleasant odors, and colored mildew shows up on the inner sole and
linings and up into the toe. You can remove this kind of mildew with low pressure sprays especial y intended for freshening shoes; these sprays
are available at shoe and department stores. Use these products as
directed.
Wood
Use heat and increase the air circulation to get mildewed wood as dry as
possible. We all know how to clean various types of wood with 50 to 100
percent Calbrite. Dry well before refinishing.
Paper and books Fan out" pages of books to increase air circulation. If the
books are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the
leaves to absorb the moisture. Leave starch or powder on for several hours,
27
then brush off. Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft
cloth. If mildewed paper is damp, dry it first in an airy place.
To dry wallpaper, heat the room for several hours or even days to dry the
plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to prevent
cracking. If mildewed paper is washable, wipe it gently with a cloth wrung
out of Calbrite then with clear water and White vinegar. Take care not to
wet the paper more than necessary. Do not scrub it. Finally wipe with a soft,
dry cloth.
Mold Cleanup
If you already have a mold problem - ACT QUICKLY. Mold damages what
it grows on. The longer it grows, the more damage it can cause.
Bathroom Tip: Places that are often or always damp can be hard to
maintain completely free of mold. If there's some mold in the shower or
elsewhere in the bathroom that seems to reappear, increasing the
ventilation (running a fan or opening a window) and cleaning more
frequently will usually prevent mold from recurring, or at least keep the
mold to a minimum.
Who should do the cleanup?
Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One
consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less
than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most
cases, the customer can handle the job.
However: If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth
covers more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) guide: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial
Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this
document is applicable to other building types. It is available free by calling
the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438 -4318,
or on the Internet at epa.gov/iaq/molds . If you choose to hire a contractor
(or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the
contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the
contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA's Mold Remediation in
Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American
28
Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other
guidelines from professional or government organizations.
Mold Cleanup Guidelines
The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up
your mold problem. Please note that mold may cause
staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so
that its original appearance is restored.
1. Scrub mold off hard surfaces with Calbrite and water, and dry
completely.
2. Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible.
Dry all items completely.
3. Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet,
do not have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow
on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials. Calbrite can
pull the mold that may be difficult or impossible to remove by other
methods.
4. Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold.
When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold
1. Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces.
2. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces with Calbrite before painting.
3. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas
It is important to take precautions to limit your exposure to mold and mold
spores.
Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure
to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N -95 respirator, available at
many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet.
(They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N -95 respirators resemble a paper
dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic
or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores
from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit
properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator.
29
We even recommend N-100.
Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are
recommended. When working with water and Calbrite, select gloves made,
neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC Avoid touching mold or moldy
items with your bare hands.
Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are
recommended. Avoid get ting mold or mold spores in your eyes.
How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?
1. You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem
before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.
2. You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy
odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause
staining and cosmetic damage.
3. You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it
should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
4. People should have been able to occupy or re -occupy the area
without health complaints or physical symptoms.
Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer.
Moisture Control is the Key to Mold Control!
Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills
occur indoors - ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried
24-48 hours after a leak or spill happen s, in most cases mold will not
grow.
1. Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
2. Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so
that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
3. Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines
unobstructed and flowing properly.
4. Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below
60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity.
Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity
meter, a small, inexpensive ($50) instrument available at many stores.
Actions that will help to reduce humidity:
30
Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves,
and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion
appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and
will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
Use air conditioners and/or de -humidifiers when needed. Run the bathroom
fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows
whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.
If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes
ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water
source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.
Actions that will help prevent condensation:
1. Reduce the humidity (see above).
2. Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or
windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
3. Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
4. Increase air temperature.
Testing or Sampling for Mold
Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area has been
adequately cleaned or remediated.
Hidden Mold
You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot
see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and
residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places
such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of
ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible
locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with
leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where
condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling
tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation). Investigating hidden mold
problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation
involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of
wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing
31
on the underside of the paper.
Cleanup and Biocides
Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a
chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for
example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup.
There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may
indicate its use (for example, when immune -compromised individuals are
present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area;
a background level of mold spores will remain - these spores will not grow
if the moisture problem has been resolved.
Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people,
so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.
Toxic Mold: Moisture Control And Moisture Control Tips
Water in your home can come from many sources. Water can enter your
home by leaking or by seeping through basement floors. Showers or even
cooking can add moisture to the air in your home. The amount of moisture
that the air in your home can hold depends on the temperature of the air.
As the temperature goes down, the air is able to hold less moisture. This
is why, in cold weather, moisture condenses on cold surfaces (for
example, drops of water form on the inside of a window). This moisture
can encourage biological pollutants to grow.
There are many ways to control moisture in a home:
1. Fix leaks and seepage. If water is entering the house from the
outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive
excavation and waterproofing. (The ground should slope away from
the house.) Water in the basement can result from the lack of
gutters or a water flow toward the house. Water leaks in pipes or
around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants
to grow.
2. Put a plastic cover over dirt in crawlspaces to prevent moisture
from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well ventilated.
3. Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to
32
the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the
outside.
4. Turn off certain appliances (such as humidifiers or kerosene
heaters) if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces.
5. Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid
climates, to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the
appliances themselves don't become sources of biological
pollutants.
6. Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses.
Use insulation or storm windows. (A storm window installed on the
inside works better than one installed on the outside.) Open doors
between rooms (especially doors to closets which may be colder
than the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries heat to
the cold surfaces. Increase air circulation by using fans and by
moving furniture from wall corners to promote air and heat
circulation. Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and
can expel excessive moisture from the home.
7. Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can
absorb moisture and serve as a place for biological pollutants to
grow. Use area rugs which can be taken up and washed often. In
certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it
may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the
concrete and cover that with sub -flooring (insulation covered with
plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.
Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another.
The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is
hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of
these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative
coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological
pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the
air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough
to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and
weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and
solutions.
Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?
You should consider having the air ducts in the home cleaned if:
1. There is substantial visible mold growth inside hard surface (e.g.,
sheet metal) ducts or on other components of the heating and
33
cooling system.
2. There are several important points to understand concerning mold
detection in heating and cooling systems:
3. Many sections of the heating and cooling system may not be
accessible for a visible inspection,.
You should be aware that although a substance may look like mold, a
positive determination of whether it is mold or not can be made only by an
expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation.
If there are insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or moldy it
cannot be effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced.
If the conditions causing the mold growth in the first place are not
corrected, mold growth will recur.
Humidifiers And Toxic Mold
As has been discussed, mold needs moisture to live. Without moisture,
mold cannot thrive. Some homes, and the people that live in those homes,
need humidifiers to create a comfortable indoor air environment.
Unfortunately, improperly used or maintained humidifiers can create
environments where mold can settle and concentrate.
Excess Moisture: Prevent excessive moisture levels in the air in
the house by using the exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens
where moisture is often generate d. Make sure the air from your
clothes dryer exhausts from the house. Be careful when using a
humidifier. If you think that you need a humidifier, first measure the
relative humidity inside your home. A device called a hygrometer
can measure the relative humidity. Try to keep the relative humidity
(RH) below 60%. There is rarely a reason to use a humidifier if the
RH is above 25%. If you feel you must use a humidifier, measure
the relative humidity in the area receiving the humidified air. Never
let the humidifier raise the relative humidity above 35%.
Mold And Carpet
If carpeting was saturated with water it is most likely growing mold.
Although a lot of people think that carpet cleaning kills mold, the reality is
that it doesn’t. To be sure, it is possible that too frequent carpet cleaning
that does not have a chance to thoroughly dry within a short period of time
34
could cause a mold problem. Additionally, many mold spores are small
enough that they are not trapped in the vacuum cleaner filtration system
and therefore exit the vacuum cleaner without being trapped.
Carpet cleaning is NOT going to kill the mold, and it is highly
recommended that any carpet that was soaked with water be ripped up
and thrown away. If you do not remove the carpeting the mold will
continue to grow in it and get worse and worse over time. Your carpet has
now become a " mold farm" and your living room is now a giant petrie
dish!
Unless you remove the source of the mold, the carpeting, you will only
make a minor dent in the fungi growth in the home.
When removing the carpet be sure to wear a face mask, and protective
clothing as even dried mold spores can be toxic.
Once the carpet has been removed make sure the floor is dried thoroughly
Cleaned with Calbrite before continuing. Turning up the heat can help dry
the flooring. Use a dehumidifier if one is available.
Vacuum the floor with a HEPA filtered vacuum to remove any loose
spores still remaining.
If you have plywood flooring under the carpeting it is highly recommended
that the flooring be Cleaned with Calbrite then if necessary painted with two
coats of oil based paint. Water based paint will not seal out bacteria that is
remaining in the wood, so make sure it is oil based paint. Concrete floors
should be washed with Calbrite and water to kill mold that is living on its
porous surface. We strongly suggest removal of carpeting that was soaked
with water.
Remediation Is An Art
Remediation -- It's not something you want to do twice
Molds needs cellulose, a non -living organic material found in drywall and
ceiling tiles as a nutrient source for growth and reproduction. Many mold s
can colonize in water -damaged materials and through the digestion
process fungi secrete enzymes into the nutrient source to break down
complex compounds into simpler compounds.
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The digested nutrients are classified into two categories, primary and
secondary metabolites. The primary metabolites are used for energy to grow
and reproduce. The secondary metabolites, called mycotoxins, are produced
to give fungi a competitive edge against other microorganisms. Many of
these mycotoxins are harmful to humans when inhaled, ingested or when
come in contact with skin.
Research indicates significant secondary health effects may also be caused
by the mycotoxins produced by the fungi. Every mycotoxins / toxin has to
be treated differently. Even the same toxin has to be treated differently
depending the environment, what the contaminated material are, and it could
depend on what other toxin is present. While it is always present, it remains
relatively harmless to most people unless it gets fed and begins to grow and
multiply.
Since mold readily eats cellulose -based materials, all it takes is water
leaking from the roof, plumbing, condensation, or high humidity for it to
grow and spread to carpets, cloth, wood, wallboard, insulation, paper and
leather to name a few. As it breaks down building materials, mold can also
release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air. These may include
irritating alcohols, aldehydes, and acidic molecules, or highly toxic gases.
One fungus growing on wallpaper, for example, was found to release arsine
from its pigments that contained arsenic.
Once mold contamination gets afoothold, it can spread through a structure
via airborne microscopic spores. Mold chemical components from these and
other species tend to dominate in damp indoor spaces. What you can’t see is
hurting you!
Environmental Assessment
The presence of mold, water damage, or musty odors should be
addressed immediately. In all instances, any source(s) of water must be
stopped and the extent of water damaged determined. Water damaged
materials should be dried and repaired. Mold damaged materials should
be remediated in accordance with this document.
Visual Inspection
A visual inspection is the most important initial step in identifying a
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possible contamination problem. The extent of any water damage and
mold growth should be visually assessed. This assessment is important in
determining remedial strategies.
Ventilation systems should also be
visually checked, particularly for damp filters but also for damp conditions
elsewhere in the system and overall cleanliness. Ceiling tiles, gypsum
wallboard (sheetrock), cardboard, paper, and other cellulosic surfaces
should be given careful attention during a visual inspection.
The use of equipment such as a boroscope, to view spaces in ductwork or
behind walls, or a moisture meter, to detect moisture in building materials,
may be helpful in identifying hidden sources of fungal growth and the extent
of water damage.
Bulk / Surface
Sampling Bulk or surface sampling is not required to undertake a
remediation.
Remediation of visually identified fungal contamination should proceed
without further evaluation. Bulk or surface samples may need to be collected
to identify specific fungal contaminants as part of a medical evaluation if
occupants are experiencing symptoms which may be related to fungal
exposure or to identify the presence or absence of mold if a visual inspection
is equivocal (e.g., discoloration, and staining). An individual trained in
appropriate sampling methodology should perform bulk or surface sampling.
Bulk samples are usually collected from visibly moldy surfaces by scraping
or cutting materials with a clean tool into a clean plastic bag.
Surface samples are usually collected by wiping a measured area with a
sterile swab or by stripping the suspect surface with clear tape. Surface
sampling is less destructive than bulk sampling. Other sampling methods
may also be available.
Air Monitoring
Air monitoring may be necessary if there is evidence from a visual
inspection or bulk sampling that ventilation systems may be contaminated.
The purpose of such air monitoring is to assess the extent of contamination
throughout a building. It is preferable to conduct sampling
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while ventilation systems are operating. Air monitoring may be necessary
if the presence of mold is suspected (e.g., musty odors) but cannot be
identified by a visual inspection or bulk sampling (e.g., mold growth behind
walls).
The purpose of such air monitoring is to determine the location
and/or extent of contamination. If air monitoring is performed, for
comparative purposes, outdoor air samples should be collected
concurrently at an air intake, if possible, and at a location representative of
outdoor air proficiency testing (Environmental Microbiology Proficiency
Analytical Testing Program (EMPAT)). Evaluation of bulk/surface and air
sampling data should be performed by an experienced professional. The
presence of few or trace amounts of fungal spores in bulk/surface
sampling should be considered background. Amounts greater than this or
the presence of fungal fragments (e.g., hyphae, and conidiophores) may
suggest fungal colonization, growth, and/or accumulation at or near the
sampled location.
Air samples should be evaluated by means of comparison (i.e., indoors to
outdoors) and by fungal type (e.g., genera,and species). In general, the levels
and types of fungi found should be similar indoors (in non -problem
buildings) as compared to the outdoor air. Differences in the levels or types
of fungi found in air samples may indicate that moisture sources and
resultant fungal growth maybe problematic.
In all situations, the underlying cause of water accumulation must be
rectified or fungal growth will recur. Any initial water infiltration should be
stopped and cleaned immediately. An immediate response (within 24 to 48
hours) and thorough clean up, drying, and/or removal of water damaged
materials will prevent or limit mold growth. If the source of water
is elevated humidity, relative humidity should be maintained at levels
below 60% to inhibit mold growth. Emphasis should be on ensuring proper
repairs of the building infrastructure, so that water damage and moisture
buildup does not recur.
Caltex International Ltd.
Manufacturers of Ecologically Responsible Products Since 1986
(315)425-0140 www.caltexinternational.com
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