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A Cruising Guide to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence
Credit: DFO Canada
Second Edition – Revised January 2010
Edited by Jim Evans
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A Cruising Guide to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence
This guide covers the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence clockwise around the Gulf as follows:
The St. Lawrence below Québec City to Sept-Iles and Cap de Gaspé
La Côte- Nord - the Québec northern shore from Sept-Iles to Blanc Sablon, including the Ile
d’Anticosti
Les Iles de la Madeleine
Prince Edward Island, including the Northumberland Strait
Miramichi Bay to Baie des Chaleurs and Cap de Gaspé
We are constantly looking for updates on ports and anchorages. If you have cruised any of these
areas in the past few years we would be grateful for your observations, particularly on off lying
dangers, cautions on entry, quality and availability of shelter and remarks on shore side facilities
and attractions (or otherwise). You get your name in print!
Please send information to:
Jim Evans.
134 Machon Point Road,
Murray Harbour, PE
Canada
C0A 1V0
or, preferably, by e-mail to: jamesevans@eastlink.ca
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:
We gratefully acknowledge the cooperation of Small Craft Harbours Branch, Fisheries and
Oceans Canada in allowing us to use aerial photos of harbour installations from their website,
and Fisheries and Oceans Canada for their image of the Gulf on the front cover.
And, of course, thanks to all the sailors who shared their experiences to make this volume
possible.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Table of Contents
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE 2
HOW TO USE THE GUIDE .............................................................. 9
GETTING TO THE GULF ............................................................... 11
CRUISING IN THE GULF ............................................................... 12
CHARTS, WEATHER AND STUFF .............................................. 13
Charts ............................................................................................13
Notices to Mariners ......................................................................13
Tides ..............................................................................................13
Sailing Directions .........................................................................14
Lights, Buoys and Fog Signals ....................................................14
Radio .............................................................................................14
Weather .........................................................................................14
THE ST. LAWRENCE BELOW QUÉBEC CITY TO SEPT-ILES AND CAP DE GASPE
................................................................................................................ 16
Québec City ..................................................................................17
Québec City Yacht Club ..............................................................17
Marina du Vieux Port, Bassin Louise ........................................17
North Shore ..................................................................................19
Mouillage à la Prairie / St. Joseph de la Rive de l’Ile aux Coudres
Cap à l’Aigle .................................................................................20
Tadoussac......................................................................................21
Grandes Bergeronnes ..................................................................22
Anse Saint-Pancrace ....................................................................22
19
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Godbout ........................................................................................23
Ile aux Oeufs .................................................................................24
Ile du Grand Caouis.....................................................................25
South Shore .......................................................................................... 26
Saint Jean Port-Joli......................................................................26
Gros Cacouna ...............................................................................27
Baie du Ha! Ha! / Anse à l’Orignal ............................................27
Rimouski .......................................................................................28
Matane ..........................................................................................29
Ste. Anne Des Monts ....................................................................30
Mont-Louis ...................................................................................30
Rivière la Madeleine ....................................................................31
Rivière au Renard ........................................................................31
L’Anse à Valleau ..........................................................................32
Cap-des-Rosiers Est .....................................................................32
LA CÔTE-NORD FROM SEPT-ILES TO BLANC SABLON, INCLUDING THE ILE
D'ANTICOSTI .................................................................................... 33
Sept-Iles.........................................................................................33
Anse à la Marmite ........................................................................34
Ile du Corossol ..............................................................................34
Ile Grande Basque........................................................................35
La Grosse Boule ...........................................................................35
Rivière Moisie ...............................................................................36
Havre à la Goèlette.......................................................................37
Rivière aux Loups Marins ...........................................................37
Rivière au Tonnerre .....................................................................38
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Anticosti Island, Port Menier......................................................39
Anticosti Island, Baie Sainte-Claire ...........................................39
Mingan ..........................................................................................41
Havre St.-Pierre ...........................................................................42
Archipel de Mingan .....................................................................44
Ile à la Proie ..................................................................................44
Ile à Samuel/ Ile Niapiskau..........................................................45
Baie des Grès and Havre de Betchouane ...................................46
Baie Johan-Beetz ..........................................................................47
Natashquan ...................................................................................49
Baie Coacoachou ..........................................................................49
Cape Whittle .................................................................................49
Harrington Harbour ....................................................................50
Passe Aylmer ................................................................................51
Havre de la Croix .........................................................................51
Anse du Petit Mécatina ................................................................52
Baie de la Tabatière .....................................................................52
Baie du Portage du Canot ...........................................................53
Rivière Kécarpoui ........................................................................53
Petit Rigolet ..................................................................................53
Saint Augustin ..............................................................................54
Grand Rigolet ...............................................................................54
Ile Lecouve ...................................................................................54
Ile Monger.....................................................................................54
Bayfield Harbour to Cumberland Harbour ..............................55
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Baie de Jacques Cartier ...............................................................56
Anse du Portage ...........................................................................56
Baie de Brador..............................................................................57
Havre des Belles Amours...........................................................57
La Falaise ......................................................................................57
Baie de Blanc Sablon .................................................................58
L’Anse au Clair ............................................................................58
LES ILES DE LA MADELEINE ..................................................... 60
Millerand (Anse à la Cabane) .....................................................61
L’tang du Nord.............................................................................62
Pointe du Cap ...............................................................................63
Cap du Dauphin ...........................................................................63
Old Harry .....................................................................................64
Grande Entrée ..............................................................................64
Havre aux Maisons ......................................................................65
Cap-aux-Meules ...........................................................................65
Havre Aubert ................................................................................66
Ile d’Entrée ...................................................................................67
NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT HARBOURS ........................... 69
Canso Lock ...................................................................................69
Port Hood ......................................................................................70
Mabou ...........................................................................................71
Margaree .......................................................................................73
Havre Boucher .............................................................................76
Bayfield Wharf/ Pomquet Road .................................................77
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Cribbon’s Point (Cribbean Head) ..............................................78
Ballantyne’s Cove.........................................................................78
Livingstone Cove ..........................................................................79
Arisaig ...........................................................................................79
Lismore Wharf (Baillie Brook) ...................................................80
Merigomish ...................................................................................81
Pictou Island .................................................................................82
Pictou .............................................................................................82
Caribou .........................................................................................83
Tatamagouche Bay.......................................................................84
Wallace ..........................................................................................85
Pugwash ........................................................................................86
Cape Tormentine .........................................................................87
Shediac ..........................................................................................87
Richibucto .....................................................................................89
Pointe Sapin ..................................................................................90
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND ........................................................... 91
Northumberland Strait Ports of P.E.I. ............................................ 92
Wood Islands ................................................................................93
Pinette River .................................................................................95
Hillsborough Bay .........................................................................96
Charlottetown ...............................................................................97
Victoria..........................................................................................99
Borden .........................................................................................100
Summerside ................................................................................100
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West Point ...................................................................................102
West Coast of PEI .............................................................................102
Howard‘s Cove (Seal Point) ......................................................103
Miminegash ................................................................................103
North Shore of PEI............................................................................104
Tignish.........................................................................................104
Alberton (Northport) .................................................................105
Malpeque Bay .............................................................................106
New London Bay ........................................................................106
Rustico Bay .................................................................................107
St. Peter’s Bay ............................................................................107
East Shore of PEI ..............................................................................109
Souris...........................................................................................109
Fortune Bay ................................................................................111
Annandale ...................................................................................112
Launching Bay ...........................................................................113
Three Rivers Area ......................................................................113
Georgetown .................................................................................113
Cardigan River ...........................................................................114
Brudenell River ..........................................................................115
Montague ....................................................................................115
Graham’s Pond ..........................................................................117
Murray Harbour ........................................................................118
Beach Point .................................................................................120
Machon’s Point Wharf ..............................................................120
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Murray Harbour Village ...........................................................121
Murray River .............................................................................123
Greek River ................................................................................123
MIRAMICHI BAY TO BAIE DES CHALEURS AND CAP DE GASPÉ 124
Escuminac ...................................................................................124
Miramichi ...................................................................................125
Shippagan Gully .........................................................................125
Shippagan: ..................................................................................126
Caraquet .....................................................................................127
Paspébiac ....................................................................................128
Chandler .....................................................................................129
Ste. Thérèse de Gaspé ................................................................129
L’Anse à Beaufils .......................................................................130
Percé ............................................................................................130
Gaspé ...........................................................................................131
How to use the Guide
This guide does not attempt to replace the information given in Sailing Directions or nautical
charts, but tries to fill in with the personal experience of sailors who have actually visited each
place described. Their names are noted and the timeliness of the information may be judged from
the year each visit was made. Where possible, information has been listed under the following
headings:
Directions: how to enter the port in question, with warnings where appropriate
Berths and Anchorages: where to berth and recommended anchorages.
Facilities: facilities available dockside and nearby.
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Remarks: comments about local sights, things to do and general cautions.
Where place names appear in French on the charts I have not tried to translate them. However,
the most important descriptors are:
anse – cove
havre – harbour
archipel – archipelago
îlet – islet
baie – bay
île – island
banc – bank
passage or passe - pass
battures – flats
pèninsule – peninsula
brisants – breakers, shoals
rivière - river
chenal – channel
récif – reef
dètroit – strait
rocher - rock
haut-fond – shoal
traversier - ferry
traverse – crossing
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Getting to the Gulf
Like most of the best places, the Gulf is a long way away - from just about anywhere. over 600
miles from Lake Ontario to Sept-Iles, over 750 miles from New York to the Strait of Canso: and
only just reached the start of it. It’s a big area: 300 miles north to south, 500 from Québec to the
Strait of Canso. Once there, though, you have many choices of types of cruising: open water
passages, pottering around fishing villages, or exploring genuine wilderness. One thing there
isn’t is big cities - Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island is the biggest below Québec, but with
a population of 32,000 a big city it’s not!
Coming from the south, the Strait of Canso between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton is the logical
route: it is a long haul around Cape Breton and you are faced with a potentially nasty stretch of
water, the Cabot Strait, once you get to the top. If you are coming through the Strait of Canso
take the time for a day or two around Ile Madame and the Lennox Passage: it’s beautiful cruising
and you won’t regret it.
Bound for the Gulf via Newfoundland you could choose to take the route down through the Bras
d’Or Lakes and through the Strait of Canso or direct into the Gulf, perhaps via the Iles de la
Madeleine. Only the adventurous and hardy will choose to go north of Newfoundland and down
through the Strait of Belle Isle.
Coming from the Great Lakes the choice is between the Gaspé and Northumberland Strait, the
Côte du Nord or straight across the middle via the Iles de la Madeleine: the choice will depend
on one’s taste for the wilderness, for the Côte du Nord has plenty of it. Some combination of
these choices will probably suit most sailors best.
There are a number of Vessel Traffic Separation schemes in the Gulf and River. They are all
very clearly shown on the charts, are rarely very busy, and in every case it is possible to stay out
of them unless you have to cross, which must of course be done as nearly as possible at right
angles to the traffic. If in doubt, a VHF securité call or a call to Vessel Traffic Operations (see
Radio Aids to Marine Navigation for frequencies and call signs) would be a good idea.
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Cruising in the Gulf
For those coming from the States or the Great Lakes the biggest shock will be the paucity of
marinas and the plethora of public wharves (few of which ever charge anything for dockage).
Most bigger towns will have a marina with the usual facilities, or possibly charge to lie alongside
the dock, but fees are usually small: typically a dollar per foot or less, or a flat rate of $15-20.
(The highest I’ve found for my 28-footer was a flat rate of $35 at l’Etang du Nord in the Iles de
la Madeleine, but nobody bothered to collect it). There are a few privately operated marinas or
yacht clubs in the larger places or those with a substantial pleasure boating population, and these
often offer haulout facilities. However, several larger fishing ports have substantial travel-lifts
for hauling the fishing boats and these are available to the public; they also usually have hard
standing for winter storage.In the smaller ports it may be necessary to lie alongside a fishing
boat. Ask around and you may find one that is not leaving at 3 in the morning. In any case use
long lines and tie direct to the shore, not to the boat, and the fishermen will extricate themselves
without waking you.I have never been asked to pay for anchoring off and I would ask for the
credentials of anyone who asked for payment.As there are so many small places with wharves it
is possible to cruise without a dinghy here unless you are venturing into the wilderness, but a
dinghy to get to a swimming beach (the water, at least in the Northumberland Strait, is warm and
conducive to swimming even for the not-so-hardy) or ashore for a stroll is definitely a
bonus.Many small places don’t have a store, or a very marginal one at best, so it is advisable to
carry plenty of provisions. If you do get stuck for something a long way from a store, ask around
and you may find someone to drive you (or they may sell or give you something). You won’t
find a car rental except in the biggest places. If you need supplies for the boat, ask the fishermen:
there may be a fishermen’s co-op which will have at least things like rough cordage, epoxy and
fibreglass and antifouling, local charts and big green rubber boots.Climate is typically maritime,
but with much less fog than the Atlantic coast. Ice persists later in the spring, however, usually
disappearing by the end of April but making early-season (May) cruising somewhat rugged (see
below under Charts, Weather and Stuff)
Where I am aware of specific dangers I have indicated them with a red CAUTION.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Charts, Weather and Stuff
CAUTION: NONE of the chartlets, drawings or photographs in this Guide is intended for
navigation. Channels change, harbours are rebuilt, and the chartlets themselves are liable to
distortions in preparation.
ChartsThe Canadian Hydrographic Service maintains an excellent interactive website which has
all the information about Canadian charts that you could possibly want, including dealers in
Canada and other countries and how to order direct (usually the best option, as charts will then
be assured to be the latest updated version). The web address is:
http://www.charts.gc.ca/publications/cc-eng.asp
If you prefer to order by snail mail the addresses are:
Central and Eastern Canada
Pacific Coast
CHS Chart Distribution Office
CHS Chart Distribution Office
P.O. Box 8080
9860 W. Saanich Rd.
830 Industrial Ave, unit 19
Sidney, BC
Ottawa, ON
V8L 4B2
K1G 3H6
Ph: (250) 363-6358
Ph: (613) 998-4931
Fax: (250) 363-6841
Fax: (613) 998-1217
E-mail:chartsales@pac.dfoE-mail: chs_sales@dfompo.gc.ca
mpo.gc.ca
I will not suggest which charts you should have as this will depend on your chosen route, depth
of pockets, availability or type of electronic charting and comfort level with poking into tight
spots with minimal information. (Poking into major ports with minimal information is much
easier – they have a lot more aids to navigation!).
Notices to Mariners
Notices are invaluable for updates to charts, lights etc. Available monthly in PDF format from
http://dsp-psd.pwgsc.gc.ca/Collection/T34-14-2-27-5E.pdf
Tides
Tidal predictions for individual locations can be obtained via:
http://www.waterlevels.gc.ca/cgi-bin/tideshc.cgi?queryType=showRegion&language=english&region=4
but only in a seven-day format for individual locations.
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Tide and Current Tables Vol. 2 - Gulf of St. Lawrence gives tide but little current information for
the Gulf. Basic current information is given on some charts.
For the St. Lawrence River to Québec you will need the Tidal Atlas of the St. Lawrence – this
quasi-essential publication gives hour-by-hour graphics of the complicated and powerful current
flows in the River and estuary. It is very strongly recommended.
Canadian Tide and Current Tables Vol. 3 - St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers is a necessary
accompaniment to the Tidal Atlas, giving times of high and low and peak currents.
Sailing Directions
Sailing Directions A, Gulf of St. Lawrence
Sailing Directions St. Lawrence River ATL 110 Cap Whittle/Cap Gaspé to Les
EscouminsSailing Directions St. Lawrence River ATL 111 Ile Verte to Québec
Sailing directions are the perfect accompaniment to this book: they won’t tell you about
restaurants or ambiance, but there’s a huge amount of factual detail.
Lights, Buoys and Fog Signals
You can buy the List of Lights, but a current, updated List of Lights, Buoys and Fog Signals can
be downloaded free in PDF form from:
http://www.notmar.gc.ca/go.php?doc=eng/services/list/index
Radio
Radio Aids to Marine Navigation is a useful publication that gives details of marine
communications frequencies, Vessel Traffic Systems channels, weather forecast channels and
times, canal and lock operations channels etc. It is available from the Canadian Hydrographic
Service at the address above or on-line at:
http://www.ccggcc.gc.ca/eng/CCG/MCTS_Radio_Aids
Weather
For weather forecasts and current conditions on the Gulf see
http://www.meteo.gc.ca/marine/region_e.html?mapID=15
For weather on the Saint Lawrence see http://www.meteo.gc.ca/marine/weatherConditionscurrentConditions_e.html?mapID=12&siteID=14500&stationID=WSF . This site gives clickable
access to forecasts and current conditions at each weather station along the river.
A very useful publication regarding weather and its effects on sea conditions in the Gulf and
River is Secrets of the Saint Lawrence – Marine Weather Guide, which can be downloaded free
from the following site: www.qc.ec.gc.ca/.../secrets.../quebec_pointedesmonts_e.htm as an
interactive file or www.qc.ec.gc.ca/meteo/secrets.../oldsalt_seadogs_e.htm in PDF format. Note
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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that these links don’t work with Windows Vista Explorer 8 for some reason (the old oxymoron
“Microsoft Works” in action?)
Pilot charts as such do not exist for the Gulf. However, a near equivalent can be downloaded in
PDF format from http://www.criacc.qc.ca/villes/fleuve_e.html Note that this site is under
reconstruction as of December 2009 and the address may change. It is also not accessible with
Explorer 8.
The Saint Lawrence Global Observatory has interesting information on current flows and the
ecology of the Gulf at: http://slgo.ca/en.html
Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia
Companion volumes to this Guide, the Cruising Guide to Newfoundland and Labrador and the
Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia, are highly recommended.
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The St. Lawrence below Québec City to Sept-Iles aFrom Québec down the River the Tidal Atlas
of the St. Lawrence is invaluable. This book is arranged in different sections with the tidal
currents broken down graphically as to state of tide and shows force and direction for each part
of the river. The diagrams are to scale, correspond to locations on the chart and are easy to use in
conjunction with the Tide Tables.
(Noel Lien) We were able to use this Atlas in 2002 when we brought Kalinka1 home to Toronto
from Sydney, Nova Scotia. We were 9 ½ days from Sydney to Brockville. At one point we were
making 10 ½ knots over the ground against the ebb tide by following the eddies shown in the
Atlas. Going downstream in 2000 we made 17 ½ knots OTG in the vicinity of the Saguenay
River. The Atlas is available from the Canadian Hydrographic Office or through some Chart
dealers. Price is $50.00 Cdn. The tide tables are less than $10.00 Cdn. but do not give this
detailed current information.
(Jim Evans 2002) Another publication that I found useful is called Secrets of the Saint
Lawrence, published by Environment Canada. It can be downloaded at
http://www.qc.ec.gc.ca/meteo/secrets_stlaurent/index_e.htm. It shows how different weather and
tide conditions can cause problems on the river and northern Gulf – largely common sense but
handy to have.
L’Escale Nautique, a Québec yachting magazine, publishes an excellent and up-to-date Cruising
Guide to the St. Lawrence River and Quebec Waterways (2nd. Edition) which covers all Québec
waters below Québec City as far as Havre de Betchouane, including the Iles de la Madeleine,
plus the Acadian Peninsula of New Brunswick. It is a very professional piece of work and has a
lot of detail about routes and facilities on the lower St. Lawrence river, including excellent
chartlets and directions for small harbours, anchorages and marinas not covered here. It is a very
valuable document and I would heartily recommend it for the detail on ports not covered in this
Guide. The Quebec-Saguenay section only is available as a PDF download in French from
http://www.escalenautique.qc.ca/quebec-saguenay.pdf. The hardcover guide is available for
$29.95 from Maureen Dawson, 418 694 6903 Fax 418 694 6904. E-mail
abonnement@escalenautique.qc.ca
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Québec City
Québec City is what the Québécois call the National Capital. (Strange country, Canada – I
always thought Ottawa was the capital…) As such it is the centre of the provincial bureaucracy
but it is also the historical and cultural centre of Québec. The food and ambiance are great – but
some of the inhabitants are prone to insist on their right to speak French. On the other hand, if
you make an attempt to meet them halfway on that they will mostly make you very welcome.
Québec City Yacht Club
46 47N, 71 14W
Chart 1316
Noel Lien 2000, 2002
Directions
Tide and currents can make entrance tricky!18 foot
tide so flood and ebb currents can create some
difficulty in entering and leaving.
Anchorage and Berths
Once inside the fuel and check-in dock is to the starboard side. 1st night is free if from a
reciprocating club, otherwise $1.00/ft. This was the going rate for all the Marinas/clubs down the
River. There was never a charge if anchored out.
Facilities
The club has all the facilities including a pool and repairs of all kinds could be arranged. Québec
City is a major city. Airport, railway, bus terminals, car rentals etc. were all readily available.
The YC was a ½ hour walk from the Old City. Just far enough away to work up an appetite for
delicious French cuisine.
Marina du Vieux Port, Bassin Louise
46 49.2N, 71 12.3W
Chart 1316 (full directions in Sailing Directions)
Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
The marina is entered via a narrow entrance into a basin and then through a tide lock. This is
actually quite straightforward – I had engine trouble in ’96 and had to sail out! The advantage, of
course, is that there is very little rise and fall once inside.
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Anchorage and Berths
Berthage is on floating docks.
2009 rates:
Boats 59 feet or less: $1.95 per foot per night
Boats between 60 and 79 feet: $2.40 per foot per night
Boats 80 feet or more: $2.95 per foot per night
Facilities
Over 415 slips and facilities for vessels up to 200 feet in length with a draught of 20 feet. Each
berth has a drinking-water hook-up and a 30-amp hydro hook-up (50- and 100-amp hook-ups are
also available). All docks have power and water. There are repair facilities and a large chandlery
nearby. Swimming pool. Travelift. Dismasting crane. Laundromat. 24 hr. security.
Boat storage: In summer and winter, storage spaces are available for boats. Water and hydro
services are provided at the storage sites from approximately April 15 to November 15 in each
year. Non-members of the Marina must reserve their space as early as possible because the
number of spaces is limited.
Gasoline or diesel can be obtained at the service station, which is open 7 days a week from 8:00
a.m. to 8:00 p.m. during the busy season. A pump to empty septic tanks is available to visitors at
the service wharf and may be used free of charge by everyone.
www.marinaportquebec.ca/en/01/01_1.htm Phone: (418) 648-2233
Remarks
The Bassin Louise is right next to the old city, which makes it ideal for tourism and access to
bars and restaurants.
CAUTION: Between Québec City and the Saguenay most harbours are subject to shoaling-in
from soft mud. The only well-sheltered harbour accessible at all states of the tide is the harbour
of refuge at Cap-à-l’Aigle on the north shore. At Berthier on the south shore a vessel drawing
1.8m must wait until ½ to 1 hour before and after the tide to enter and leave, 1 to 1½ hrs at SaintJean-Port-Joli. The rest are not accessible until 2-4 hours before and after high tide and some dry
completely, although boats sink into a mud so soft that it is not a problem At Rivière-du-Loup
the service quay is accessible at all states of the tide. All of the channels are subject to strong
tides and tide rips in certain conditions. A copy of the Tidal Atlas of the St. Lawrence is very
strongly recommended – and a must-have if you’re going upstream, of course. By working the
tides it is possible to cover a remarkable distance in a day – but harbours and anchorages are few
and far between. Careful planning requires a departure from Quebec 2 – 3 hours before low tide
and an average speed of 5-6 knots to reach Cap-à-l’Aigle in one day (72 miles), so it is well to
have a Plan B ready if the weather comes foul. It goes without saying that wind against tide is
something to be avoided here.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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There is a choice of channels below Québec City. The Chenal de
l’Ile d’Orleans is reported to be picturesque and buoyed with
lighted buoys, but narrow, with many shoals and no harbours. The
route that Jim Evans took seems to be the most often used the
Chenal des Grands Voiliers (Channel of the Great Sailing Ships) is
obvious - with a name like that who could resist it! The Chenal du
Nord splits from the Chenal des Grands Voiliers at the eastern end
of the Ile d’Orleans and is dredged for its first part and wellmarked, and leads past the first anchorage below Québec on this
side, that of Mouillage à la Prairie, where there is also a marina at
St. Joseph-de-la-Rive. The Chenal du Milieu and Chenal du Sud are
both encumbered by shoals to a greater extent than the Chenal du
Nord. The channels come together again below Ile aux
Coudres.North Shore
Mouillage à la Prairie / St. Joseph de la Rive de l’Ile aux Coudres
47° 25.16’N, 70° 24.5’W
Chart 1233
Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
Anchorage: This is an open roadstead subject to strong tidal currents (4 knots or so) and to N
and E winds. Jim Evans: On my first visit I awoke to find the boat had dragged into the middle
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of a field of very nasty rocks, but the second time spent a quiet enough night except for the
sluicing of the tide past the hull and the wake of a large ship in the middle of the night.
Marina: The marina is in a basin beside the rather exposed public dock. However, in 1996 it
was well filled with very soft mud – about 2 feet depth at low. I was able to motor out through it
with 4’6” draft and a very skinny fin keel!
Cap à l’Aigle
47°39.70’N 70°05.80’W
Chart 1234 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002
Directions
Access is possible at all states of the tide
although the fuel dock is only accessible
from half-tide. Access is easy to the east
of the public wharf on which there is a
red flashing light. A yellow light marks the end
of the breakwater. Shelter is good.
Berths
Visitor docks are along the breakwater at the east
end.
Facilities
Fuel and water. It is reported that a restaurant
has recently been built. Phone 418 665-3698
Remarks
Noel Lien: A port of refuge some 65 miles East of Québec on the North shore near Pointe à Pic,
this is a man-made harbour administered by the Québec Yacht Club. Marina has 56 berths. Too
far from anything so just a layover for the change of the tide.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
21
Tadoussac
48° 08.3’N, 69° 42.9’W
Chart 1203 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002, Jim Evans 1996, 2002
Directions
The mouth of the Saguenay River is beset
by tide rips and can be dangerous in
strong wind against tide conditions, and it
is wise to plan an approach bearing the
weather and tide conditions in mind.
Remarks
Noel Lien: Tadoussac lies at the mouth of the Saguenay River. Very strong currents at the
confluence with the St. Lawrence. A great spot for whale watching. Belugas, Blue Whales,
Humpbacks and Sperm whales, Pilot and Minke whales have all been seen here. There is a good
anchorage by the Marina. We did not go ashore here.
Jim Evans: The marina has the usual facilities including diesel, restaurant, dry storage, laundry
etc. Tadoussac is a nice little town with restaurants and grocery stores and reputedly the oldest
church in North America. We saw dozens of belugas here, and fin whales and Minkes on the
way downstream. We went a few miles up river – far enough to see that it is indeed spectacular
and would be worth a few days to explore more thoroughly. It is possible to go right up to
Chicoutimi in deep water, through North America’s largest fiord.
Marina de Tadoussac, Club Nautique-Tadoussac Marina and Nautical Club
367 rue Bord de l’eau,
Tel.: (418) 235-4585
Fax: (418) 235-4795
$1.22/ft 2009
This marina is reported to be often full in high season – one should book ahead or be prepared to
anchor out off the beach to the north of the public wharf (but beware of rapid shelving to the
west). Gusts from N or NW may be violent here.
22
Grandes Bergeronnes
48 13.24’N, 69 33.2’W
Chart 1235
Jim Hawkins 2004
Directions
The Sailing Directions has a diagram of the
entrance.
Jim Hawkins said ‘Silting has now occurred from both sides of the channel near the last red
buoy near the docks going in. The harbour master is restricting entry for up to two hours before
and after low tide.
We went in without calling, ignorant of the shoaling. With pure dumb luck we slipped between
the shallows on each side. Others might not be so lucky.’
Anse Saint-Pancrace
49 17.1’N, 68 02.6’W
Chart 1236
Jim Hawkins 2004
Jim Hawkins said: ‘Anse-Saint-Pancrace is very
deep so the Baie Comeau Yacht Club has
installed a long floating dock ($20/night). The
dock sits within a high cul-de-sac, waterfalls
pouring down from each side. A Minke whale and a large shark came by close enough to spit on.
And we took a bath in the ‘tub’, a pool contained by rocks cleverly placed to capture a flow of
warm fresh water.’ There is a trail up to an overlook.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
23
odbout
49° 19’N, 67° 36’W
Chart 1236 (inset)
Jim Hawkins 2004
also – see below under la Cote-Nord
Directions
CAUTION: Jim Hawkins reported compass
errors of up to 20° in the area south of Anse
Saint-Pancrace and Godbout approaching
from the south offshore.
Access is easy at all stages of the tide. The bay is open to winds from the south and east. The
village is hardly visible from the river as it is hidden by the point of the river mouth, but some
fishing huts are visible and the church spire shows above the Trees.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a public dock east of the ferry terminal with 7 feet depth, but Jim Hawkins reported
that the whole area inside the breakwater is used by ferries and the only dock available is a very
high one in some disrepair. According to the Guide Nautique de la Cote du Nord anchorage is
available off the last houses in the village to the east, but care should be taken to avoid the
numerous mooring stakes and running moorings.
Remarks
Godbout has hotels, dépanneurs, gas station and health centre and beaches. This is a centre for
trout and salmon fishing. Jim Hawkins recommends the Inuit museum, particularly for its
excellent traditional bread!
24
Ile aux Oeufs
49° 37.9’N, 67° 10.6’W
Chart 1236, 1226
(Information from La Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Directions
Approach from the west in daylight and do not
attempt to pass between the north end of Ile aux
Oeufs and Rècif Northeast. It is possible to pass
between the two islands with care.
Anchorage
Anchor in 7.5 feet, sand bottom. Ensure that the
anchor is well dug in because it will not bite easily.
This is recommended as a fair-weather anchorage
only.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
25
Ile du Grand Caouis
49° 50N, 67° 01W
Chart 1226
(Information from La Guide Nautique de la CoteNord)
Directions
A light (Fl6sec 148ft 11M) appears on the southern tip of the island. Take care entering Le Fer à
Cheval as there are shoals .25M off shore; shelter is good except in strong winds from east or
north. There is reported to be a wreck on the bottom that may foul anchor lines.
Le Havre aux Americains is the better anchorage in winds from east or south. Do not go too
close to the beach as there is a risk of grounding low tide. The bottom is sand; a rocky point
separates two beaches.
Remarks
This island is reported to be a bird nesting area and popular with divers – there are a number of
wrecks to the north of Le Fer à Cheval. Fishing nets may sometimes be encountered in this area.
26
South Shore
Saint Jean Port-Joli
47° 13.02’N, 70° 16.4’W
Phone 418 598-7374
Chart 1233
Jim Hawkins 2004
Directions
As of 2004, most boats can enter here at any tide. The channel does narrow down to about 15
meters at low. At some of the slips further in boats still touch bottom at low tide. We went in
with our five foot draft about an hour before low tide and got all the way to our close-in slip with
plenty of water, but later touched bottom briefly.
Facilities
Water, electricity, showers, laundry, bar, wi-fi. $1.25/ft 2009
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
27
Gros Cacouna
47° 29.5’N, 69° 37.4’W
Chart 1234
Jim Hawkins 2004: The commercial
harbour at Gros-Cacouna is boring and
unattractive. But it provides a convenient,
protected anchorage with good holding and
no wharf fees.
L’Escale Nautique reports that this harbour
is only open to pleasure craft in cases of
difficulty and that permission must be obtained from the harbour master – phone
418 867-1784 or 418 868-9920.
Baie du Ha! Ha! / Anse à l’Orignal
48° 20.84N, 68° 49.53W
Chart 1236, 1223
Jim Evans 1996, Jim Hawkins 2004
Directions
Baie du Ha!Ha! (left) only gives shelter
in winds from south to north through
east. Holding was good in mud and
sand. There was nothing here but trees
in 1996 – in fact, in pouring rain it was
very gloomy.
Jim Hawkins found Anse à l’Orignal, the other side of Cap à l’Orignal, a magnificent and truly
beautiful anchorage, surrounded by the hills of the Parc du Bic.
28
Havre du Bic, a little further east,
is also a popular Rimouski
48° 28.8N, 68° 30.8W
Chart 1236 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002, Jim Evans 1996, Jim Hawkins
2004
Directions
Noel Lien 2002: This is a good deep
water harbour. The entrance can be a
little tricky the first time! Follow the
channel in to the break wall, keep to
the outside of the east side of the wall
then enter into the Basin just before
the rock wall. Contact the marina on
VHF ch. 68. For a picture see the
Sailing Directions.
Remarks
Rimouski is a major town on the south side of the River. All kinds of repairs are available, plus
train and bus depots, supermarkets and liquor (Socièté des Alcools or SAQ) and beer stores.
(Beer is available in convenience stores (called ‘‘depanneurs’’, in Québec). There is a wonderful
museum devoted to the Empress of Ireland which sank just 7 miles from shore with the loss of
over 1400 persons.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
29
Matane
48° 51.15N, 61° 37.75W
Chart 1236 (inset)
Noel Lien 2002, Jim Hawkins 2004
Directions
Access is straightforward if narrow – straight up the channel and a tight turn to port, almost
under the bridge, into the marina basin. Access at all states of the tide for 5’6” draught (2004).
Facilities:
Showers, laundry, bar/snack bar. Ch 68 or 418) 562-3300
The New Port (about 1 ½ miles east) is commercial but offers easy access and shelter at night or
in foul weather. There is room to anchor although one would be in the way of traffic..
30
Ste. Anne Des Monts
49° 08N, 66° 29.2W
Chart 1230
Noel Lien 2002
Directions
When entering keep
to the centre of
church spires which
will lead you right in,
in deep water. In
1997 we were able to
get 85 boats of the
Newfoundland
Flotilla in here, and
in 2000, 17 boats.
Remarks
A very well protected harbour with good docks. Fuel available by jerry can or truck.
Mont-Louis
49° 14.25’N, 65° 43.9’W
Chart 4026
Jim Hawkins 2004, David Hartman 2008
Jim Hawkins says there is a choice of tying to the wharf or anchoring.
David Hartman anchored in the middle of the bay between the piers in 5 m water. “Great until
the SW wind picked up (25+) and the swell wrapped around the western point. I upped and
moved anchor to 100° from western pier position 49° 14.05’ N, 65° 44.14’ W There were
fishing boats plus 4 Quebec cruising boats tied off to the wharf. They were rafted in pairs as
there was not enough space.”
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
31
Rivière la Madeleine
49° 14.95’N, 65° 19.5’W
Chart 4026
Jim Hawkins 2004
‘There are quite a few summer people here, many of whom speak English. If you express a need
for something, you had better be ready to go right then, as they grab your arm, plunk you in a
car, and take you there! We trekked up and over the mountain on a day-long hike to see a salmon
ladder’.
The marina phone is 418 393 2436.
Rivière au Renard
48° 59.95’N, 64° 22.9’W
Chart 4026
Jim Hawkins 2004
David Hartman 2008
It is possible to anchor in
the harbour. The public
wharf is in the SE corner
of the harbour (lower left
in the photo) and there is
a marina at the west end
of this wharf. Water,
electricity and laundry
available, with food
available in the village.
David Hartman in 2008
found “depth 4+m. Large
commercial fishing port
plus Coast guard station. A marina, brand new in 2006, had floating docks with finger docks 35
ft long. Laundry and dryers ($1 ea/load) hot water showers. Docking $1/foot length of boat.
People very friendly and helpful.
Fuel: they carry jerry cans of gas and diesel. Someone from the marina drives to the gas station
to refill the jerry cans.
Shopping: grocery store 200 m from the dock, well stocked. There was also an auto store.
On the dock at the marina are two chip wagons with the usual burgers and poutine through to ice
creams.”
32
L’Anse à Valleau
49° 04.9N, 64° 32.7W
Chart 4026
Jim Evans 1996
Look for the Mo(A)
Bell just offshore.
This is a tiny place,
but with good docks
and friendly folks,
and well sheltered.
Cap-des-Rosiers Est
48° 50.37’N, 64° 12.76’W
Chart 4026
Jim Evans 1996
Remarks
This is another tiny, well-sheltered harbour about five miles from the tip of the Gaspé. There is
an attractive interpretive centre for the Forillon Peninsula. There were no facilities for yachts
when I was there – the harbour was devoted to whale-watching, tourism and fishing boats – but
there was dock space although the harbour had silted to about four feet depth. It is dredged
periodically, however.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
33
La Côte-Nord from Sept-Iles to Blanc Sablon, including the Ile
d’Anticosti
NOTE: I acknowledge some following information from the useful and comprehensive Guide
Nautique de la Côte-Nord, published by:
Club Nautique de Sept-Iles,385 rue Arnaud, C.P. 664,
Sept-Iles,
Québec G4R 4K9
Alas, it is only available in French as far as I know, only goes as far west as Havre Saint-Pierre
and seems to be out of print. It is aimed primarily at operators of small powerboats but the
information is detailed enough for use by larger boats. If you can track down a copy it’s
worthwhile.
Sept-Iles
50° 12.1’N, 66° 23.2’W
Chart 1220
Jim Evans 2002, Dave Heffler 2008
Directions
Sept-Iles is a major port (iron ore) and the aids to navigation are
accordingly substantial and numerous.Anchorage and Berths
The bay of Sept-Iles is large and anchorages are subject to wakes from ships and power boats.
The best shelter is in the marina of the Club Nautique (in the background in the photo above).
34
The dock at the Quai du Parc Urbain (distance) offers reasonable shelter in winds from the south
and east but is likely to be busy with tourists and fishing boats. A large yellow tent at the head of
the quay often has entertainments. It is possible to anchor off here, but keep well clear of the
dock to allow room for arriving and departing vessels.
The docks at the Quai Monseigneur Blanche (foreground), although well-sheltered and officially
available for pleasure craft, are generally full of fishing and work boats.
There are a number of good anchorages in the Sept Iles (Seven Islands) themselves - see below.
Facilities
The marina has electricity and water at the docks. Sept-Iles is a good-sized town and has most
things you’re likely to need, although it’s a tidy walk to the well-stocked Canadian Tire store.
There are some good restaurants with fine seafood. Dave Heffler said ‘ it was a big ugly marina.
I went for a walk ashore and decided that someone built a town and no one came’.
Anse à la Marmite
50° 09.6’N, 66° 25.7’W
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
This small bay on the tip of Pointe Noire offers a good anchorage in sand in about 12 feet once
clear of the reef in the entrance - pass to the south side.
Ile du Corossol
50° 05.75’N, 66° 23.25’W
Chart 1220
(Information from Le Guide
Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
35
There is a choice of anchorages in the channel between Ile du Corossol and Ile Manowin and in
Anse de l’Ouest on Ile Manowin, as indicated above.
Remarks
The island is named for the King of France‘s ship Corrosol which was wrecked on this island in
1693. The lighthouse was built in 1870. The picturesque island is a nesting colony for gulls,
guillemots, terns and cormorants
Facilities
None
Ile Grande Basque
50°10.3’N, 66°22.0’W
Chart 1220
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la CoteNord)
Anchorage and Berths
There are two anchorages between Grande and
Petite Ile Basque as shown above. Both are
reported to be in sand bottom.
Four orange and white mooring buoys were and may still be maintained by the Club Nautique de
Sept-Iles along the western shore of Ile Grande Basque. There are also anchorages in Anse à
Cyrille and Havre à Zoël on the north end of Grande Basque. The latter is reported to give good
shelter in strong westerly and south-westerly winds.
La Grosse Boule
50°09.3’N, 66°17.5’WChart 1220
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
Directions
Approach between Grosse and Petite Boule
from east or west is straightforward.
36
Anchorages and Berths
The anchorages on the northern tip of Ile Grosse Boule are on the east and west sides, making
them suitable for winds from west or east accordingly, and they are sheltered from the NNW by
la Petite Boule.
Facilities
None
CAUTION The coast from here eastward is generally poorly charted and very foul. It is
advisable to stay well out beyond the 20 fathom line.
Rivière Moisie
50° 12’N, 66° 04’W
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la
Cote-Nord)
There is reported to be a good anchorage in 2 to
4 metres behind the Pointe aux Americains
inside the river. However, a look at the chart and consideration of the reported strong tides and
shifting channels would suggest local knowledge is essential.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
37
Havre à la Goèlette
50°15.7’N, 65°48.5’W
Chart 4026
Jim Evans 2002
Havre à la Goèlette (Schooner Harbour in
English) is a beautiful tiny hole-in-the-wall
anchorage behind off lying reefs and rocks, used occasionally by fishing boats – I shared it with
a longliner from the Gaspé.
DirectionsThe anchorage is just
to the east of Point Charles and
is difficult to see from offshore.
Approach from the southeast
and identify the small, bare,
low-lying island that protects the
anchorage. Enter slowly,
watching for reefs that extend
from both sides of the channel.
Anchor in about 9 feet in sand
and mud, quite close in to the
small bay in the north side of the
island. In winds with an easterly
component, anchor in the small
bay to the east of the anchorage.
Once in, shelter is excellent in
reasonable weather and this is a
beautiful and lonely spot with
dark firs behind and smooth
wave-worn rocks to seaward. It
could be a trap in a strong
southerly, however.
Facilities
You are very much on your own here, although the road is only half a mile away. The east side
of the harbour dries to sand if you need to dry out and it is reported that there is an anchorage
just inside the tip of Point Charles,
although it wasn’t obvious when I was
there.
Rivière aux Loups Marins
50° 15’N, 65° 44’W
Chart 4026 (no detail chart)
38
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
Directions
Two miles east of Havre a la Goèlette, a cross is displayed on an islet to the west of the river
mouth. Follow the centre of the channel avoiding the islets and rocks at the entrance and the
shoals to the west.
Anchorage
There is reported to be room for a dozen boats to moor in shelter except from easterly winds, in 7
to 10 feet sand. There are beaches of fine sand to the west. There is also anchorage in the Anse à
la Baleine (Whale Bay) to the west and in a number of bays and inlets further west, but in each
case there is no detailed chart and the Guide recommends exploration by dinghy before entering.
Rivière au Tonnerre
5016.5’N, 6446.7’W
Chart 4026 (no detailed chart but there
are clear directions and a chartlet in
the Sailing Directions).
Jim Evans 2002
Directions
Rivière au Tonnerre can be identified from offshore by the church spire (100 ft) to the east of the
harbour. Follow the range lights (360°) in to the tiny harbour. There may be a lighted Morse
‘‘A’‘ R/W bell buoy in about 50° 15N, 64° 46W.
CAUTION The narrow channel into the harbour is reported to be difficult in strong southerly
winds and there are shoals and rocks close on both sides. There may be only 5 feet or so in the
channel (note the caution on seasonal silting in ATL 110: silt is washed down from the interior in
the spring runoff), although there is more depth at the dock. When I was there depth was no
problem and it is reported to have been dredged in 2006.
Anchorage and berths
Tie up to the L-shaped public wharf or anchor in the basin in sand and rock bottom. There is not
a lot of anchoring room.
Facilities
There is a shop with some basic supplies, a garage and a ‘‘casse-croute’’ (snack bar) just up the
road to the east. Water and power are on the dock but access may not be convenient. The historic
church is worth a visit. A (thunderous, hence the name) salmon river flows into the head of the
harbour.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
39
Anticosti Island, Port Menier
49° 48.9’N, 64° 21.8’W
Chart 4026
Noel Lien 2000, Eric Radin 2001, 2003, Dave
Heffler 2008
Noel Lien 2000: The only ‘Port’ on the Island. It
is
open to all winds, has terrible holding and the
harbour is a U shaped steel pile basin used by a pulpwood barge and tug. 8 ft tides make it
difficult to get off or on the boat. We only spent one very uncomfortable night here in 2000.
However, if you get quiet settled weather the town was worth a visit for all the white-tailed deer
walking around: 250,000 at last count.
Eric Radin 2001, 2003: The only decent harbour on Anticosti Island is Port Menier, which is on
the southwest end of the island. It is well buoyed and has a range. It’s commercial, but has
enough space for a yacht. There is an airport with service several days a week, some provisions
are available and a trip inland by vehicle can be arranged. There are some named anchorages on
the northwest end of the island, but they are small and open. The island is well named, Anticosti
means “no landing”. (Anticosti is privately owned and is organized as a hunting preserve and
lumbering operation. The timber is shipped out on the biggest timber barge you’re likely to see
and loading it is big-time stuff.)
CAUTION In a region without other nearby harbours, Port Menier is a poor place to ride out a
gale. One can get beat to death at the commercial wharf in this harbour, which is open to
anything with south in its title. According to the locals, the waves in the harbour apparently kick
up in westerlies as well, as the waves resonate off the high Y-shaped wharf. The government has
offered to build an outer barrier for the inner harbour but those in control are afraid it might be a
navigational hazard to the giant wood-carrying barges that frequent the place. The locals
recommend staying off the wharf and anchoring just inside the entrance in the SE corner of the
harbour. In a strong gale, we tried tying to a fishing boat but it rode up and down at a different
cadence than we, so we moved aft to the dock and put out all the fenders we had. It was not a
pleasant night but we only sustained some minor superficial damage.
If you want to visit the national park part of the islands and see the multitudinous deer, it would
probably be best to leave your boat in the Havre St. Pierre marina and take the tour boat
Dave Heffler 2008: Port Menier gives good shelter from everything but a south easter and they
never blow in the summer (!). The south easter we had made for good sailing but poor shelter.
We arrived mid afternoon on a beautiful day and hoped to find some shelter north of the big dock
where they were loading a timber barge. No luck. It was too shallow.
Anticosti Island, Baie SainteClaire
49° 53.7’N, 64° 30.2’W
40
Chart 4026, 4430
(Information from Le Guide Nautique de la Cote-Nord)
Directions
Opens 2M north of la Pointe de l’Ouest. Can be seen from a distance by the light (Fl5sec, 88ft,
21M) and, from 3.1M by a pylon 144m high with aircraft warning lights. Reefs and flat rocks on
both sides are visible at low tide. Align at 130° with two houses at the foot of the bay for
entrance.
Anchorage and Berths
Anchor in 12 feet. Shelter is good in south-westerly winds but the bay should be avoided in
winds from north and northwest.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
41
Mingan
50°17.4’N, 64°01.3’W
Chart 4432
Jim Evans 2002, Eric Radin 2001 & 2003, Ned
Cabot 2004
Directions
Entry is easy from east or west as there are
ranges (288° or 066°) for each course.
Anchorage and berths
Jim Evans 2002: The government dock
shown in the above photo tends to be very
crowded in summer, but there is good
anchorage a few yards to the east with dinghy landing at the dock or on the beach. The tide flows
fairly strongly off the dock but less strongly in this anchorage area, and holding appears to be
good. I had a Minke whale play around my anchor chain for half an hour here in 2002. Anchor
lights are a must as there may be traffic at any hour.
In addition there are day anchorages around the Iles aux Perroquets (yes, there are puffins here)
and an anchorage in Anse Jos on the west side of Ile aux Bouleaux that is well sheltered except
from the south.
Ned Cabot 2004: The town of Mingan, located on the shore opposite the inside of the Ile du
Havre de Mingan, has good protection. There is a float inside the western end of the town dock,
which tends to have fishing boats tied up there. We anchored to the east of the town dock with
good holding in 2-3 fathoms, but care should be taken as the bottom shoals up rapidly near shore
2001 & 2003 Eric Radin: This is a National Park made up of rocky islands, some tree covered,
that is a destination for cruise boats and many boat-owning Québécois. It contains some obvious
small, uninhabited harbours that are quite attractive. There is a small habitation at Mingan
Harbour, on the mainland at the eastern end of the islands, offering good holding ground for
anchoring about ¼ mile southwest of the government wharf in 10 feet of water. Watch out for
abandoned seabed rope cables from an old mooring pattern. The harbour is a quiet place, without
the bustle of Havre St. Pierre and seemingly less current. Mingan Harbour is protected by an
attractive offshore island. One can safely enter the harbour entranced between Ile Nue de Mingan
and Ile de Wreck. There are entrance buoys but not all the hazards are buoyed. However, the
range is accurate and avoids all dangers. This would not be an easy place to get in or out of in
limited visibility when the range can’t be seen, as the chart datum is pre-GPS and some of the
hazards do not show. There are no services available.
42
Facilities
The nearest store is a small supermarket at the Indian reserve a mile or so to the west. There are
more facilities in Havre St. Pierre, 17 miles east.
Remarks
Mingan is one of the gateways to the Archipelago de Mingan, a National Park and an area of
outstanding natural interest.
Jim Evans 2002 There is a lovely day anchorage on the
west side of Ile Nue de Mingan inside l’Ilot; anchor in 8
feet over stony bottom which looks as though it would
not give good holding.
Havre St.-Pierre
50°14.2’N, 63°36.3’WChart 4429 (inset)
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot 2004, Dave Heffler
2008 Eric Radin 2001 & 2003
Directions
Approach from offshore is
straightforward and well
marked with buoys and
ranges for the large vessels
that use the harbour to
transport ilmenite, one of
the raw materials from
which titanium is made ( is
the world’s largest
producer of this mineral).
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
43
Anchorage and Berths
Havre St. Pierre is the main centre of the area, and offers the inestimable advantage in bad
weather of a perfectly sheltered marina. The tide flows strongly across the entrance, though, so
take care when entering.
It is possible to anchor in good weather to the east of the marina but the bottom is reported to be
weedy and poor holding.
The public dock is usually very crowded and there is a very strong current.
It is recommended in the Guide Nautique not to anchor off the north side of Ile du Havre but to
go around to La Grande Anse on the east end of the island. However, by far the best anchorage is
in Baie Quarry, where there are government moorings.
Ned Cabot 2004: There appear to be no good anchorages anywhere in the roadstead outside the
marina. The marina inside the breakwaters is crowded, with a narrow entrance and a small basin,
but there is good water within and excellent protection. We were able to raft up at the marina. A
slot is kept open for the Coast Guard Rescue boat, and the floats to the east are for the Park
Service boats and are not available. There is a floating pier at the fuel dock, which is convenient
for fuelling but is not available for dockage.
Eric Radin 2001 & 2003: This harbour is behind Isle du Havre. It’s a very commercial harbour
with a strong crosscurrent. There is a marina with good facilities and most needs are available.
Fuel can be delivered by truck and there is an airport for crew changes. Those wishing to anchor
are best advised to gunkhole in the Mingan Island National Park just to the west. The beauties of
this park are best seen from a boat anyway
Facilities
Jim Evans: In 2002 the marina lacked facilities except fuel – there was only a public toilet
across the road – but the staff were friendly and helpful and found me someone to do outboard
repairs promptly and at a reasonable price. Noel Lien reported ‘‘a very nice marina’’ in 2004.
Facilities include train, bus station, shops, restaurants, garage, hospital, bank and hotel. Boat
tours to the islands are available with guides for shore visits. Ned Cabot reported a bank, the
liquor store, a small hardware store and convenience store are all within a block of the marina.
There is an excellent supermarket further to the east, but it’s a long walk for lugging groceries
44
Archipel de Mingan
The archipelago is a unique and beautiful place and definitely not to be missed. It has some
amazing rock formations (some of those on Ile Quarry shown above), unique plant ecology and a
colony of puffins. Whales are common here. Information is available on the web
http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/qc/mingan/index.aspx or in Havre St. Pierre.
There are many day anchorages around the islands, for example Havre Sauvage on Ile du Havre
and on the west side of Petite Ile au Marteau.
Ile à la Proie
Chart 4429
50° 13.2’N, 63° 48.1’W
Jim Evans 2002, Noel Lien 2000
Noel Lien: A great anchorage in a well protected bay (Baie Quarry) on the North side. In 2000
there were 5 free moorings here. The whole archipelago is a National Park and famous for its
limestone flower pots and sculptures carved out of the limestone by the currents and tides. There
is a house on shore that is open for anyone’s use to get in out of the weather to cook. A large
wood cook stove was installed and put to good use. Lots of walking trails.
Jim Evans: In 2002 there was a young interpreter from the Parks Service who gave daily guided
tours in French and English.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Ile à Samuel/ Ile Niapiskau
50°13.2’N, 63°44.2’W
Chart 4429
Jim Evans 2002
CAUTION: Anse aux Loups Marins on the east side is less than satisfactory as an anchorage and
has a lot of rock slab and kelp. If the wind comes easterly you may have to leave (in the middle
of the night, of course) like I did. Anse au Noroit on the west side is better in quiet or easterly
conditions – good for a day stop. There is now reported to be a Parks Canada landing in Anse des
Bonnes Femmes with anchoring nearby (reported to be poor holding).
Havre St. Charles
50°13’N, 63°20’W
Chart 4456
Jim Evans 2002
CAUTION: I went hard aground here in 25
knots of wind in 2002 in less than three feet right
where the chart says ‘‘Saint’‘, and I didn’t find
anything deeper when I finally got free a few hours
later. GPS seemed accurate elsewhere so I suspect
the bay has silted in. My fault for not watching the
depth sounder on a falling tide…
This is a lonely spot.
46
Baie des Grès and Havre de Betchouane
50°13.8N, 63°12.3WChart 4456
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot 2004
Directions
It is possible to pass through
into Havre Betchouane from
Baie des Grès in about 10
feet. Parallel the south-eastern
shore of Ile à la Chasse close
to shore until halfway across
the gap between the rocks and
small islet, turn hard to port
to run about equidistant
between them and then harda-starboard at the 3 fathom
line past the last islet. In
practice it’s clearer than my
description (but the chartlet should help) The course is approximately between the two western
rocks shown on the chart and the rocks and small island in Havre Betchouane. I was given this
information by a local sailor and it worked for me. No guarantees offered!
Anchorage
There is reasonably sheltered anchorage in mud and rocks in both Baie des Grès and Havre de
Betchouane. Apart from this there isn’t anything there – not necessarily a condemnation.
Ned Cabot 2004: Havre de Betchouane is a wide open, but completely protected anchorage to
the north of Ile a la Chasse where we chose to ride out a predicted gale in 20 - 25 feet of water
with excellent holding. It cannot be entered from the west via Baie des Grès (it can- see above!).
Entry from the east is straightforward, taking heed of the shoals on the north side and passing to
the north of the very low Ile a Mouton.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
47
CAUTION: Chart 4452, Harbours and Anchorages – North Shore is essential for the following
harbours. Dave Heffler (2008) made this comment: “I noticed that the charts for this coast are
1:300,000 scale with very few large scale charts. Imaging enjoying the south shore of Nova
Scotia with just “Yarmouth to Halifax” which is also 1:300,000. I might try Shelburne but not
Lockport, the Lahave Islands or River. Lunenburg would be scary and most of Mahone Bay
would not be doable. St. Margarets would be fine but I don’t know where I would go to anchor.
And forget Dover, Rogues, Sambro and all those wonderful places we all know. And there are
way fewer buoys and stakes up here.”
You are on your own up here. Gunkholing in anything but good conditions with anything but
extreme care is obviously dangerous – but it is very rewarding.
Baie Johan-Beetz
50°17N, 62°48.6W
Chart 4455, 4452
Jim Evans 2002, Ned Cabot
2004Eric Radin 2001 & 2003
Dave Heffler 2008
Directions
A huge (555 feet) microwave tower
shows the way from miles
offshore. Approaching on a course
043°T a lighted range becomes
visible onshore, then watch for the
range (319°) in to the dock keeping
FlG C81, which marks a shoal, to
port. There is a light Iso R 2s on
the north end of the T-shaped
dock.Anchorage and Berths
Jim Evans 2002 There is room and depth
enough for a boat up to about 45 feet on the inside of the wharf. In a strong easterly this is the
only good shelter (I had to share this spot with a 50-foot longliner in 2002) as the swell comes in
over the reef from the east and makes the east side of the wharf untenable. I got in on the
northern side of the pier with my 28-footer with 4’6’’ draught, while the longliner lay inside the
T; it was tight but sheltered. An anchorage is indicated in the bay in 4 ½ fathoms, but fishing
boats come in here at all hours and good anchor lights would be advisable. The head of the bay is
used by small boats but is very foul.
CAUTION Ned Cabot 2004: This harbour offers no protection whatsoever from the south or
southwest. There is a public wharf on the west side, but one can only lie on the outside (but see
48
above), which is completely exposed and no place to be in any southerly blow. We tried to find
some shelter elsewhere in the harbour, but a sizable swell was rolling in, so we gave up and went
back out to sea.
2001 & 2003 Eric Radin: Watch the rock at the intersection of the two ranges going in, even
though there are buoys. The end of the T-shaped wharf has 14-foot depths alongside and is well
protected. Be aware of the inside of this wharf (see above – it’s not as bad as it looks). The road
is paved to St. Pierre and beyond.
2008 Dave Heffler: The cove was well marked with an easy range to get in and a moderate
protection from the east wind but not much protection is the wind swung anywhere south. We
visited the famous house (Johan Beetz House, look it up on the Internet) which was closed but
we chatted with the owner. We checked out the wharf on the east side of the cove and decided
that didn’t look as good as our anchorage.
Then we had a good look at the charts and the cruising guide (thanks to Jim Evans). Jim has a
little less draft and way more nerve than I do.
Facilities
There is a small store and a post office.
Remarks
Jim Evans 2002 The museum about Dr. Johann Beetz, after whom the bay is named, should not
be missed as his is a wonderful, romantic story. The museum is set in his old house on the hill,
still furnished with his own furniture and with decorations painted by him.
The coast east from here is very foul inshore but still offers some possible anchorages. I was told
by local sailors that Baie Pontbriand and Baie Jalobert are both reasonable anchorages. The
paucity of soundings on the chart indicates a cautious approach would be advisable.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Natashquan
50° 11.37N, 60° 50.6W
Chart 4454, 4428
Noel Lien 2004, Eric Radin 2001 & 2003
Noel Lien: Natashquan: Literally the end
of the
road! The North Shore Highway ends here and there were no further roads East on the North
shore of the Gulf. An open roadstead with a long steel walled pier. No shelter. Difficult to enter
due to shoals and rocks awash and discoloured water. Not much here in any event. Except
whales! We had one breach right beside the boat as we were navigating a tricky channel between
some rocks! Heart in the mouth time! Friendly people.
Eric Radin 2001, 2003 There are strong rip tides on the approach, inside there is a range.
CAUTION: Although there’s quiet water off the wharf we couldn‘t get our anchor to set in the
eelgrass.
According to Sailing Directions there is a grocery/hardware store, staffed dispensary, inn and
post office.
Baie Coacoachou
50° 13.3N, 60° 18.4W
Chart 4025, 4452
Eric Radin 2001, 2003, Noel Lien 2004
Noel Lien 2004 One of only a few marked anchorages on the North shore. Deep water all the
way in but a rock garden so follow the range!! A large well protected anchorage with a couple of
mussel beds. There was a Native summer camp up the river just to the West of the anchorage.
Friendly sort of but they didn’t like us fishing their water!
Eric Radin 2001, 2003 Sailing Directions for the St. Lawrence River (ATL 110) describes a
great gunkhole in this bay. It’s about ½ a day’s sail from Harrington Harbour
Cape Whittle
50° 11‘N, 60° 07‘W
Chart #4440
Eric Radin 2004 There is a lovely inside
passage to the northwest of Isle St. Marie (50°
19N., 58° 39W). Under the right conditions and proceeding with caution, for there are several
well charted but unmarked rocks, this is much more scenic than the outside passage.
50
Harrington Harbour
50° 30’N, 59° 29’W
Chart #4468
Alexander Weld 1985, Noel Lien and Eric Radin 2002, Michael Moore 2005.
Harrington Harbour is a major community on this coast; it’s located on the southern tip of
Harrington Island and, as of 2005, seems to be thriving. The only safe entrance into the harbour
is between Entry Island and Schooner Island, as shown on the inset on chart #4468. This
passage is narrow, but there is plenty of water. Actually, the water in the harbour is too deep for
easy anchoring.
Anchorages and Berths
The Government wharf has at least 10 feet half way along both sides of the wharf. The
ferry/freighter, in 2005, arrived Thursday evening (going east) and again Saturdays (going west).
It docks on the south side of the wharf, since it hit a ledge to the north of the dock in the late
1990s. So it’s best to tie up on the north side of the wharf. One will probably want fender
boards and it’s a high climb up unless one can position oneself alongside one of the ladders.
Facilities
As of 2001 there was gas, diesel and fresh pond water available, as are most basic supplies often including fresh vegetables - all jammed into two small general stores. Amy Evans
Boarding House provides meals and showers and has a washing machine/dryer. The
Harbourside, a modest restaurant, has simple food, a bar and pool table. There is a bank, post
office and two B&Bs. There is an active fish plant.
Air transportation is from Chevery, a new town 6 to 7 miles to the west, just up the Negagamu
River. A water taxi, a small runabout that carries 6 passengers plus baggage, makes the run back
and forth; it takes about 20 minutes. The taxi costs $15 per person (2001), except evenings when
it’s a special charter when it’s $80. Reservations are advisable, call 418-795-3219. There is a 2
km cab ride between the airport and marina in Chevery.
Remarks
Do climb to the radio tower for a spectacular 360 degree view.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
51
The Québec-Labrador Foundation built a small swimming pool, primarily so that the children
will learn to swim. It is fresh water and can be as warm as 60 degrees on a sunny midsummer
day.
Passe Aylmer
50° 33’ N, 59° 23’ WChart 4468CAUTION horizontal
datum on this chart is significantly off
Alexander Weld 1985
Louisa Harbour - This is a charming cove, with a
towering rock wall on one side. Perhaps only a lunch
break, in settled weather or with easterlies.
Baie Salaberry - Our 9 ½ foot draft was carried safely to
an anchorage near the 3 fathom 4 foot spot shown on
chart 4468 in the northern end of the western finger. We passed to the east of the rocks in the
middle of the bay, by the ‘‘S’’ in Salaberry. These rocks are exposed at low water, but not at
high tide; making negotiating past them much more disconcerting. On our departure, we nosed
into the unnamed finger to the southwest off this bay, where we had seen a fisherman anchored
the night before.
Havre de la Croix
50° 32’N, 59° 21’WChart 4468
Alexander Weld 1985, Michael Moore 2005
This harbour is located on the southern tip of Little
Mecatina Island. It has a very narrow entrance. Locals
advise that a 6 foot draft would require a high tide
entrance/exit. Otherwise, once inside it’s a suitable
harbour with good holding.
52
Anse du Petit Mécatina
50° 33.5’N, 59° 18’WChart 4468
Michael Moore 2005
Go up the middle to the SW end and anchor in
appropriate depth, mud and sand bottom.
Awesome rock formations with overhang on north
entrance.
of
Baie de la Tabatière
51° 10.6’ N, 59° 49.8’ WChart 4474
Alexander Weld 1985, Michael Moore 2005
Directions
It is an easy enough harbour to sail into, minding the buoys
and range lights as marked on the chart. But once off the fish
plant the maneuvering space quickly diminishes. The plant
was still busy in 2005.
Anchorages and Berths
In 2005 the wharf was in moderate condition, the ferry docks at the northern end on Fridays and
Saturdays, which, when it’s not there, is quieter and cleaner than at the fish plant end.
During a strong northerly Alexander Weld moved north a few miles and entered Havre aux
Poissons from the north, running along the southern side of Ilet au Bois, to anchor to the west of
the island with good protection and holding.
Facilities
In 1997 the fresh water was good and fuel was available by truck. Basic supplies can be had
from several small general stores, the biggest being the Hudson Bay Company store a short walk
from the fish plant along the road to the head of Baie Rouge - where the post office is also
located. We were advised that the rock shown in the middle of the entrance to Baie Rouge is
really there, only skiffs use this cove.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
53
Baie du Portage du Canot
51° 03’N, 58° 51’WChart 4474
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
The large bay to the south, as one enters this arm, is
deep right up to the shore, too deep for my
anchoring purposes. Instead we continued to the
head of the arm, carrying 20 feet all the way, for
good protection and good holding.
A path leads across to Baie des Ha! Ha! or hike up
the hills to the south.
Rivière Kécarpoui
51° 04’ N, 58° 50’ WChart 4474
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
This area goes off chart 4474, but by following the east finger one can carry at least 10 feet along
the narrow passage, which opens into a small bay at the base of tall cliffs. Anchor in the
northwest corner, carefully avoiding rocks that are offshore from a cabin hidden in the woods
near the river’s mouth.
Petit Rigolet
Chart 4474 & 4473
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
This channel, behind islands of rock and fir and the
best part of 20 miles long, is deep enough for
steamboats, calm as can be, absolutely wild and
unspoiled. It’s a marvellous place to investigate.
It’s the best route between La Tabatière and Grosse
Isle Tickle, far easier and more enjoyable than
fighting foul weather off shore. A sail along here is
fun, and keeps you on your toes, as the wind constantly changes direction. There are loads of
places to duck into for a brief stop, or longer. The vegetation is much thicker here than along the
Grand Rigolet, making hiking ashore more difficult. There are also more bugs.
To enter or exit Petit Rigolet’s western end it is recommended to use Passage Germain. This
passage looks narrow, as it is, but it is deep and the rocks appear to be accurately charted on
Canadian chart 4474. When approaching from the south “stay to the right when entering, and to
the left when leaving the passage”. There can be a knot or so of current.
54
Saint Augustin
51° 13.5’ N, 58° 38.5’ WChart 4473
Tom Leonard 1983, Alexander Weld 1985
It is impossible to reach St. Augustin in anything but a
skiff. Should one want to get there, anchor in Baie des
Oies and use an outboard, or the coastal ferry stops at a
dock on the north side of Ile de la Conserverie, marked
“public” on the chart.
A vast area of inland waterways exists to the east of
Petit Rigolet’s eastern end. The possibilities are endless.
Given one’s inclination and the weather, one can find almost any type of intrigue. It is possible
to circumnavigate Ile des Genevriers, or use Passage de I’Ile au Sable, or exit via the ship
channel with lights on Ile de la Grande Passe. Having exited this area via the narrow passages to
the west of Ile Cumberland in good visibility and calm weather it is not all that difficult. One
does not want to try, I’m told, the short passage to the east of Ile Cumberland. Only outboards
can use it at high tide.
Grand Rigolet
Chart 4474 & 4473
Alexander Weld 1985
Grand Rigolet parallels Petit Rigolet, but more to the south and is more open although still
behind offshore shoals and islands.
Ile Lecouve
51° 02.5’ N, 58° 39’ W
Alexander Weld 1985
We spent a night on the south side of this island, having entered via the deep water shown
through the islands off Ile Lecouve’s southwest corner, and anchored near the 4 fathom 2 foot
spot just north of the island 94 feet high. Walking around on Ile Lecouve was easy and
enjoyable. The off lying islands broke up a slight southwest swell, which provided us with a
quiet night.
Ile Monger
51° 05’N, 58° 41.5’ W
Alexander Weld 1985
On this island’s eastern shore is an unnamed cove, to the northwest of Ile Newberry - at the
southern end of Passage Fournier. We missed the 2 fathom 2 foot area, rounded into the tiny
cove, and dropped the anchor nearly on the northern beach and fell back to the 3 fathom 2 foot
spot. The depth was there, but not the necessary swinging room. Had we stayed for more than
lunch and a hike ashore, I’d have wanted a second anchor or a line ashore.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Bayfield Harbour to Cumberland Harbour
51° 12’ N, 58° 22’ WChart 4472
Bill Cook 1986
The narrow passage between
Bayfield Harbour and
Cumberland Harbour can carry
at least 6 feet at low water, BUT
it is not as simple as chart #4472
suggests. When going from
West to East, it is necessary to
keep well to the North shore as
approaching the shallow East
end. Once past a shallow bar on
the South side, turn back to the
middle to avoid another bar off
the North shore, right at the East
end. Good light is very useful
here!
Although chart #4472 shows 11
feet in the middle of the SE cove of Cumberland Harbour, we could not find less than 40 feet
until close to shore, except in the mouth of the small indentation on the NE side of this cove,
where we were able to anchor with the heavy kedge in 25 feet.
56
Baie de Jacques Cartier
51° 17’ N, 58° 16’ WChart 4472
Alexander Weld 1985, Noel Lien and
Michael Moore 2001
There are a number of fine anchoring possibilities within this
long bay, to include the very head of the bay in a cove with
20-25 feet of water over a sand and mud bottom, providing
good holding and where the water is very swimmable. The
chart shows 6 fathoms at the narrowest point just north of
Anse Scallop. Alexander Weld didn’t find nearly that much
water even at high tide; but had at least 10 feet through at
low tide. There is also a noticeable current here. In 2001 a
scallop farm has closed the bays east of the electrical lines to
anchoring.
Anse du Portage
51° 14.5’ N, 58° 17.5’ W
In 2001 the houses on the southeastern side of this bay look like only weekend cottages. By
following the chart, 15 feet can be carried to the east of the small island in the southern part of
this bay. Anchor due south of the small island as the farther in one goes the deeper the water
then gets, the bottom is good sticky mud.
In 1985 this was one of the larger summer fishing communities on this coast.
The fishermen move out to it as soon as the ice left in June, their families come out for weekends
from St. Augustine.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Baie de Brador
Chart 4470
Havre des Belles Amours51° 28’
N, 57° 27’ W
Bill Cook 1986
Sally Richards 1997
Michael Moore 2004 & 2005
This harbour is located on the mainland, on the western end of Brador Bay.
It is easy to enter with decent visibility. One must avoid the rock that dries 4 feet to the north of
Harbour Point.
In 2004 and 2005 the northern section of the harbour was filled with an extensive aquaculture
operation, blue balls in a line, parallel to the channel, with yellow balls marking each end of each
string. Leave all the gear close to starboard, until the last two strings which should be passed
between. On approach the amount of gear appears overwhelming, but you should find room to
pass and swing to anchor in the SW corner in 20 - 30 feet, with a good mud bottom.
La Falaise
51° 29.5’ N, 57° 15’ WThere is
a red and white channel marker
¾ of a mile northwest of Ile aux
Perroquets and a range marker at
the end of the channel leading
north to La Falaise with a true
course of 005°. This range takes one safely between Rocher Bull and Rocher Gull. There is a
very nice anchorage on the west side of La Falaise. The north side of this harbour has summer
cottages, unoccupied when we were there, and a road leading to Blanc Sablon. The cove
shallows rapidly, but there is plenty of swinging room when anchored in 20-foot depths. A
spectacular waterfall is visible on the way in off to the north.
58
Baie de Blanc Sablon
51° 25’ N, 57° 08’ WChart
4020
Bill Cook 1986
Michael Moore 2004 &
2005
Anchorage and Berths
The ferry from Newfoundland lies along the north side of the largest wharf, built in the 1970’s,
which has a fixed light on it. The ferry noses onto the ramp so vehicles can drive on and off.
One can lie at the L-shaped wharf, also built in the 1970’s, just to the north of the ferry wharf,
but the sheltered area behind it is small, and is often filled to capacity with fishing boats. There
are over 12 foot depths along the outside face and perhaps 6 feet on the south end and inside.
In 1985 the Government was building a 100-ton travel lift facility next to the inner small public
wharf. However, there is a large unmarked ledge due south of this area.
There is no protection here from southeast winds. The locals advise one to move to Havre à la
Frégate (Frigate Harbour) in Brador Bay.
If heading to the west and a westerly is blowing, this is a good harbour to escape in. The Strait
of Belle Isle is famous for nasty westerlies, accompanied by a steep chop and adverse currents.
Ile au Bois protects the bay somewhat from the sea to the southwest, and the wharf gives further
protection. The Strait has a well deserved reputation for inclement conditions.
Facilities
The town of Blanc Sablon has nothing, although this will probably change, as all the freight
headed for coastal Labrador will be coming through here by truck. Until then, if you need
supplies go to Lourdes-de-Blanc-Sablon, which has a bank, hospital and stores. If you go by
boat, the red buoy (CY2) due south of that town was not in place in ‘85. Regardless, going in
there looked suitable for only a dinghy and at that only in calm weather.
There is air service to Blanc-Sablon as well as a ferry from St. Barbe, Newfoundland. A paved round road extends from Blanc-Sablon eastward and northward to Red Bay and gravel roads to
all the way to Cartwright and eventually to Goose Bay).
L’Anse au Clair
51° 25’ N, 57° 04’ W
Chart #4020John Harries 2000, Noel Lien 2001.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
59
Directions
This harbour is located just 2 miles east of the Québec-Labrador border, about 3 miles east of
Blanc Sablon. The approach is straightforward after the sea buoy is left to starboard.
Anchorage and Berths
There is good shelter and ample space behind the breakwater situated in the northwest corner of
the harbour. Wharf charges were $5.00 per night in 2000 with fresh water and electricity
available.
Facilities
A modern hotel and complete hardware store are in town.
60
Les Iles de la Madeleine
These islands are part of the Province of Québec and mostly French-speaking, although there is a
small remnant population of Scottish settlers on Entry Island. The islands are vividly green with
red cliffs and white beaches, dotted with small farms and brightly painted houses. There is very
much an ‘‘island’‘ atmosphere to the place, as well there might be because the islands can only
be reached by air between January and April, when the Gulf is frozen.
The sheltered, shallow lagoons are popular with windsurfers and kite-surfers, who rarely lack for
motive power here, but the more-sheltered eastern side of the islands also offers lovely sailing in
the prevailing south-westerly winds.
For those who are tempted by the small size and apparently low-lying nature of the islands to
rent a bicycle, be warned that the islands are much hillier than they look, and five miles against
the wind can be an awfully long grind. I speak from bitter experience (but it was worth it!).
The Québec government promotes a tourism concept known as ‘‘le corridor bleu’’, covering the
St. Lawrence, Baie des Chaleurs and Iles de la Madeleine. A list of participating marinas and
their facilities and rates is available at http://fr.corridorbleu.com/naviguer/marinas.html but is
somewhat incomplete and subject to some wishful thinking…
Dredging for fishing harbours on the islands was announced in 2008.
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From south to north, clockwise, the harbours are as follows:
Millerand (Anse à la Cabane)
47° 13.0N, 69° 59.1
Chart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004
This is a tiny, shallow artificial breakwater on
the south shore of Ile du Havre Aubert. Due to constant silting depths vary according to when it
was last dredged. J. Hawkins reported that wharfage in 2004 was free but there were no services
except a small but good restaurant five minutes’ walk away and basic groceries about 15 minutes
away.
62
L’tang du Nord
47° 22.2N, 61° 57.7WChart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004, Jim Evans 2006
Directions
The entrance from seaward is clearly marked with an R-W-G sector light and flashing lights on
the ends of the breakwaters. There is plenty of depth but in a strong westerly the seas break
heavily across the entrance.
Berths
This is a French-speaking fishing port and has adapted only minimally to the tourist trade.
Outside of fishing season there is room for several pleasure craft. Pleasure boats usually tie on
the north side of the main wharf. Wharfage in 2006 was or a flat rate $35.
Shelter in the harbour is poor in a westerly gale, as a severe surge sets in. The south side of the
wharf was completely full of fishing boats tied stern-to (and hence offering no opportunity to lie
alongside them) in September 2006. Anchorage in the harbour is possible but the harbour is
mostly shoal and, of course, there is a lot of traffic.
Facilities
A sign at the head of the wharf mentioned electricity and water but there was no sign of them in
September 2006. J. Hawkins noted that there are no official facilities, but if you have a long
enough cable you may be able to reach an electrical outlet. Water is available if your hose is long
enough. The washroom and shower (you get a key) is locked at night and located a hundred
yards from the wharf, attached to a good restaurant open from breakfast through dinner. A classy
tea room serving lunch, as well as tea and pastry the remainder of the day, also has creative
artwork, dolls etc. There are gift shops and a pleasant little park at the head of the wharf.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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A lovely walk on the bluffs by the sea, several kilometers long, starts from the wharf. Ice is a
little more than two kilometers away. The Co-op grocery was not open in 2006, the nearest
alternative being in Cap-aux-Meules (over 5km away). There is continual dock traffic.
(The list of marinas mentioned above makes this sound like a full-service marina, hence editorial
cautions about believing all you read in it).
Pointe du Cap
47° 31.8N, 61° 42.9W
Chart 4951
No personal information
This tiny breakwater wharf only has 3ft. alongside.
Cap du Dauphin
47° 37.7’N, 61° 30.8’W
Chart 4954
No personal information
Cap
du Dauphin was named by Jacques Cartier. This is another tiny breakwater/wharf but had 6ft.
alongside in the 1990’s. There is a fish plant operating here and the small village of Leslie so it is
probably still dredged.
The Sailing Directions suggest that this area offers good anchorage in southerly winds in good
holding, but this is of course directed more to ships than to yachts.
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Old Harry
47° 34.26’N, 61° 28.03’W
Chart 4952
No personal information
The breakwater/wharf has 3 to 5 ft. alongside. The sandy bay between Old Harry and Pointe de
l’Est (to the north) is reported to afford anchorage in winds between west and NE through north.
Grande Entrée
47° 33.4’N, 61° 33.5’W
Chart 4954
No personal information
Entry is via a dredged channel subject to silting but which is frequently used so should offer no
problems. The harbour itself is very busy with fishing craft in season (Jim Evans ran into the
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
65
fleet coming out of there one dawn in 2002 and it was hectic!) and has 6ft. inside the basin, 8 to
10 ft. alongside the outer wharf.
Havre aux Maisons
A marina is shown in Havre aux Maisons, a couple of miles north of Cap aux Meules, but access
to sailboats is blocked by a shallow approach and a fixed bridge. Depths in the marina are less
than 1.5 metres.
Cap-aux-Meules
47° 22.6N, 61° 51.4W
Chart 4956
Jim Evans 2002, Fred Keire 2006
Directions
The approach is clearly marked with a
range from seaward. The entrance to
the harbour is marked with a FlR4s and
QG (the front range marker) on the
breakwater ends – however, the marina is south of the harbour entrance and its entrance is
marked with another FlR4s which could lead to confusion. There are spots which may be less
than 2m in the marina, so deep draft yachts should take care.
There is no obvious anchorage but in settled westerly conditions anchorage should be possible in
any of the bays south of the harbour in 2-3 metres, sand bottom.
Facilities
Fred Keire: The marina has berthing space limited to about seven or eight feet in the yacht
harbour. A freshly refurbished local yacht club had two clean shower rooms of ample size.
Laundry facilities were also available as was electricity and water on the floating docks. In the
main, commercial harbour there are no floating docks, but pier space appeared to be available for
lay up alongside. A visiting yachtsman, however, has to put up with the commercial aspects of
the rather busy harbour.
Cap-aux-Meules is the main town and administrative centre of the islands and has car and
bicycle rentals, windsurfing rentals, tours, restaurants, hotels, stores etc. It is also the ferry port
66
and the closest town to the airport (north of Havre aux Maisons) and can get surprisingly busy
when the ferry comes in. If you can’t get it here you can’t get it on the islands.
Havre Aubert
47° 14.4N, 61° 50.1W
Chart 4957
Jim Evans 1996, 2002, 2009J. Hawkins 2004, Fred Keire 2006
Directions
From the north it is a delightful sail across the aptly named Baie de Plaisance until you pick up
the QR YK2. A new flashing buoy, YK1, is located between YK11 and the channel entrance due
to the advance of the sand shoal into the bay from the sand spit. Leave it to port going in.
From there steer 033 for the QG on the end of Pointe a Fox. The channel is well marked and free
of dangers – as long as you stay in it.
From the east or south, Ile d’Entree is bold and easily identified in good visibility or by its
powerful lighthouses at night. Passage to the north of the island is straightforward. Be prepared
to encounter currents and confused seas through La Passe, particularly in wind against tide
conditions. The tide sets SW on the flood. The passage is well marked and is a spectacular
welcome to the islands. Make sure you are well clear of Point Sandy Hook before turning
towards the harbour, as its shoals extend a long way.
Anchorage and Berths
There is an attractive marina on the north side of the harbour, with floating docks, power, water
etc. The channel shoals towards the marina but there should be at least six feet, although the
docks themselves are shallower towards the land.
J. Hawkins says (2004): ‘No-one actually ties up at the Quai du Havre Aubert anymore, we
were told, even outside of fishing season, and we saw none do so over the three days we were
there. The small craft harbour operated by the club is very busy, but very receptive. There are
two permanent moorings in place to port of the channel going in. The fish pier opposite Fox
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
67
Point is in ruins and the path to it silted in we were told. Havre Amherst is good and frequently
used in the busy season.’ Jim Evans found holding in Havre Amherst to be rather unreliable and
in August 2009 the whole harbour (in fact the whole island) was very busy; it seemed like every
yacht in Quebec was visiting, presumably because of the previous week’s sandcastle
competition. The fishing harbour on the port side of the entrance was busy, with a few yachts
among the fishing boats.
(Jim Evans didn’t find it so)
Remarks
Most people find this a delightful harbour. There is also a tourist development here which has
turned the old net sheds into a street of craft boutiques, smoked fish shops, cafes etc. Some of the
stuff for sale is unique and high-quality, and well worth a look. There is an interesting marine
museum ashore, where you will find friendly folk with suggestions about what to see and where
to go in the islands, and an excellent walk up to the cross on the hill above the harbour where
there is a panoramic view of the islands. The flats west of Sandy Hook have clams, while the
beach across the dunes is beautiful (although the water is cold and swimming is not
recommended due to powerful rip currents – as on most of the islands’ shores). An international
sand-castle building competition is held during the first week in August. The sandcastles are
truly stunning.
Facilities
The marina provides water and electricity, showers, ice, telephone and a lounge for $1.00/ft
(2009) but no fuel although delivery from a local garage may be possible. The staff is friendly
and bilingual. The marina is open from the middle of June to the first week in September. There
is a bar and Internet access. They monitor VHF 68 and the phone number is 418 937 5283.
The village has several restaurants and a grocery store (depanneur) where beer and wine may be
bought. There is a bakery, and fresh seafood is available.
Ile d’Entrée
47° 16.7’N, 63° 43.1’W
Chart 4951
J. Hawkins 2004
Directions
Jim Evans: The island is easily identified from north, east or
south by the high red cliffs and green slopes above. The
channel between Ile duHavre Aubert and Ile d’Entrée tends to
kick up a bit, particularly in wind against tide conditions (the flood sets south). A long shoal
stretches northeast from Dune Sandy Hook, while rocks lie off the tip of Ile d’Entrée.
68
J.Hawkins: To enter, find red buoy YM12. Leave it well to port. Track toward the bluff which
faces the water south of the harbour until the entrance opens up, then go straight in.
Remarks
Ile d’Entrée is noted for its high hills and the trails up to the top where you get a lovely view of
the islands, and Cape Breton on a clear day. The harbour is small, but has enough turning room
for small craft. Tour boats come and go all day bringing hikers from Cap aux Meules. The dock
nearest to the breakwater is reserved for these boats but can be used by pleasure boats for brief
periods or after the last hikers leave for the day. A dock attendant takes the name and address
and the town sends wharf bills by mail. There is no electricity or water. A poorly-maintained
public bathroom is at the top of the wharf. A number of English-speaking families live here.
Island teenagers whoop it up until about 11 pm on the breakwater. The island makes a good
departure point for Cape North or Chéticamp .
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
69
Northumberland Strait Harbours
This chapter covers the Northumberland Strait from the Strait of Canso west to Miramichi and
north to Cheticamp, and Prince Edward Island.
The Northumberland Strait Yachting Association runs a site, which includes some cruising
information and information on sailing races in the Strait, at http://www.nstya.com/. The
Canadian Power and Sail Squadrons, Blue Heron Squadron, runs a ‘‘Cruising PEI’’ site at
http://www.blueheroncps.pe.ca/CruisingPEI.htm
Canso Lock
Remarks
Canso Lock operates 24 hours – call Lockmaster Canso on Ch 16 : he won’t want any money but
will want to know your last port and destination. The lock walls are high so it may be easier to
simply hold the boat under power in the middle rather than tying up. Wind and sea tend to funnel
into the Strait from the west, making it a rough and tumble into the canal although the last few
70
yards are sheltered. Be prepared for a rough ride going west exiting the canal if the wind’s
westerly even though it may be quite quiet on the Port Hawkesbury side. Havre Boucher makes a
useful bolt-hole if it’s rough, going either way.
The Northumberland Strait extends north to Chéticamp from the Lock.
From the Lock itself, harbours are as follows:
Port Hood
46º00’N, 61º33’W
Chart #4448
Wallace Feldman, Brian Dalton, and S.Dumaresq 2004, Jim Evans 2008
Directions
The harbour is south of the breakwater
here. (Never be tempted to anchor north of
the breakwater.) Entrance from the south is
straightforward. Coming from the north it
is possible to save a couple of miles around
Henry Island by passing between Henry
Island and the reef to the south of Susannah
Point – the passage is marked by two small
buoys.
Coming north up the harbour look for the
sandy beach on Spit Head – a favourite
swimming place.
Anchorage and Berths
The snug harbour on Port Hood Island is to the west and south of the breakwater that runs
between the island and Cape Breton. The three timber wharves encompass a square basin of
about 40 square yards. The harbour was dredged in 2008 and was a minimum 7 feet deep in the
basin and entrance. The “breakwater’ is really the remains of an old causeway. The gap in the
causeway is a government dredged channel and is marked by one pair of tiny white buoys.
There is a fine anchorage off the wharf near the light, well-sheltered from west and southwest
winds. There is also room for one or two boats to tie up at the wharf which offers good shelter
from winds in any direction. If you don’t want to go up to the harbour there is good anchorage
off Spithead – the sandy point to port heading north inside the entrance to the bay.
Remarks
This former fishing village has become a small summer colony, occupied by U.S. and Canadian
residents in equal numbers. The former government wharf noted above is now well-maintained
privately. If one wants to learn about the fascinating history of Port Hood Island, it is worthwhile
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
71
to seek out Earl Smith, a direct descendant of the Bostonian who settled there in 1786. In 2008
there was a huge pod of pilot whales a mile or so offshore here – at least 50 individuals.
Facilities:
In 2007 there was “Dave’s Canteen” by the harbour, but as far as we could tell, nothing else on
the mainland side either. Good swimming at Spithead.
Mabou
46º04.6’N, 61º25.5’W
Charts: #4448, #4462, #4463
Rewritten and condensed from earlier material by P. Pereira, C. Bartlett, L. Brunton
H. Sullivan, S.Dumaresq and J. Evans 2006, 2008
Directions
This harbour can be
entered using Chart #4463,
but Chart #4448 is
preferable.
The entrance can be seen
clearly from quite a
distance offshore:. Mabou
Highlands to the north
noticeably slope down to
Green Point and then
suddenly drop off. The low
72
land to the south of the entrance is quite conspicuous in comparison. When one comes a little
closer, one can see Green Point is well named. Its large expanse of open pasture is invaluable for
identifying the harbour entrance during the summer. Pick up the range of 107.5º (true) and
follow it in. Mabou has finally been dredged and S. Dumaresq reported a minimum of 7ft two
hours after low tide. There is a fierce tide in the harbour mouth: slack tide is recommended.
Jim Evans 2006: It is pretty shallow (less than 7 feet) in a direct line into the harbour but I found
on the way out that keeping to the north, as on the attached sketch, is much better.
Anchorage and Berths
Syd Dumaresq: This harbour is well protected from every wind, and it is safe to anchor
anywhere. There is a government wharf at the base of the inside range lighthouse with a
minimum of 6ft feet on its face. Upriver at the village of Mabou, there is a floating dock just
below the highway bridge. There is lots of water at the dock. Passage to the dock is well marked
by stakes driven into the mud banks. Surprise made this run to the dock within two hours of low
tide and the shallowest point they found was 6ft under their sounder.
Remarks
This is one of the most beautiful harbours on Cape Breton and a very pleasant place to spend a
few days. To the south of the entrance is one of the few sand beaches on Cape Breton. It is
peaceful and you may very well be the only boat in the harbour. St Mary’s Church is a stunning
piece of architecture that dominates the beautiful Mabou countryside.
Facilities
Basic supplies may be had in the village. There is no fuel or water available. The Red Shoe pub
has good food and great live Celtic music.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
73
Margaree
46º21.9’N 61º11.4’W
Charts 4449, 4464
S. Dumaresq 2004
Syd Dumaresq: Surprise followed the range lights into the harbour just after high tide. Between
the red (QR) buoy and green (QG) buoy, our sounder went down to 7 feet. This happened again
at the end of the breakwater. Although not shown on the chart, there is a red buoy at the end of
the breakwater.
There is lots of water at the Fisherman’s Co-op Wharf, although we were advised not to go all
the way to the northerly end of the wharf. We were able to get fresh water at the wharf. As this
was a short lunch stop, we did not explore any further.
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Chéticamp
46º38’N, 61º01’W
Charts: #4449, #4464
Rewritten and condensed from earlier material by H. Barlow, P. Richmond and V. Spooner,
with new information P. and H. Travis, and F. Keire. 2006, Jim Evans (shore only) 2009
Chéticamp La Digue
Chéticamp Town Wharf
Chéticamp Point
N 46° 36’ 11” ,W61° 3’6”
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
75
Directions
At the north end of Chéticamp
Island, there is a range bearing
108º (true) which will bring
you to a point where the
harbour opens up to starboard.
You will see a RWG sector
light bearing 190 (true), with
white marking the center of the
channel which is dredged 2
fathom past La Digue, the first
wharf to port.
Anchorage and Berths
Approximately 0.1 mile south
of the channel buoys VD 13-14
you are in the main harbour
and can anchor anywhere. The
holding ground is good mud.
There is a depth of 12 feet at
the last pair of buoys.
After entering the harbour,
there is first a fish plant (La
Digue) on the port side, with a large wharf that is normally full of fishing boats. The harbour has
been dredged (2006) and there is 10ft or more water up to the T-shaped government wharf , very
much available for visiting yachts. However, there may be a lot of activity in the wee hours of
the morning when the crab fleet heads out to sea. If you are following the buoyed channel, it
ends at a small wharf that is also a good place for yachts to tie up. The “lighthouse” painted like
an Acadian flag - red, white and blue stripes with a gold star - identifies this wharf; there is a tiny
marina here. The dock is part of the waterfront boardwalk in the middle of town; it is very handy
to the grocery and hardware store as well as other shops and restaurants. In 2009 there was a
very good seafood restaurant just above this wharf.
Southeast of Chéticamp Island there is a small fishing harbour at Chéticamp Point with a
reported depth of 4-6ft and water and electricity available. No other facilities. Dredging is
proposed for this harbour.
Remarks
Chéticamp (pop. 3,000) is a French-speaking community, though cultural imperialism has
forced it to be bilingual. The road through the town is part of the Cabot Trail, and aside from the
fishing, the main industry is tourism. The town consists of houses strung out along the waterfront
for a considerable distance, but not extended back. The land is fairly high.
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There is a flourishing craft industry here, the main product being hooked rugs, which are
acclaimed to be very good.
Facilities:
This is a good place to provision, as most needs can be found within walking distance - a large
grocery store, bank, post office, liquor store, laundromat and some restaurants. People are
friendly and helpful. Water is available at the small-craft basin as you enter the harbour on the
south, facing the pier. There is no dockside fuel.
Westward from the Lock ports are as follows:
(for comments on tides see Prince Edward Island, below)
Havre Boucher
45° 41.3N, 61° 31.6WChart 4335, 4448Jim
Evans 2008
Directions
The entrance is well marked by a lighted range (194½°) and a pair of buoys in the entrance.
There is ample depth until one passes the green buoy, when several spots of six feet are found in
the channel. There is deeper water on the west side of the channel.
Anchorages and Berths:
There is ten feet or more on the outer face of the government dock (above left), although the
inside is shallow. The bay is protected from all directions although some northerly swell can get
in, and there is ample room for anchorage in about 1 ½ fathom, mud, off the wharf. There is also
a quiet anchorage between the island at the south end of the harbour and the mainland, in about
eight feet mud and rocks.
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Facilities
No facilities close by.
Remarks
Havre Boucher is about five miles west of the Canso Causeway - a useful bolt-hole if you don‘t
like the conditions after you’ve left as returning to the lock with a tailwind often isn’t an
attractive prospect. A railway yard above the dock can make things noisy.
Bayfield Wharf/ Pomquet Road
45° 38.7N, 61° 45.2W
Chart 4447
(Information from Northumberland Strait Yachting Association)
Directions
CAUTION A sand bar extends a long way south of Pomquet Island and it is important to identify
the buoys and wharf before a close approach. The church spire in Bayfield village may prove a
useful leading mark.
Anchorages and Berths
Pomquet Road is reported to offer good shelter in winds from south through north-west in two to
three fathom, sand.
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Cribbon’s Point (Cribbean Head)
45º 45.3N, 61º 53.7W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
(Jim Evans 2005 – shore information only)
Cribbon’s Point is the local name for this small
harbour that is now fully enclosed and very similar to Ballantyne’s Cove (below), with floating
docks and a few resident yachts. The main difference is that the food, in the ‘‘Seafood Galley’’, a
cafeteria-style place with outdoor and indoor tables and a good seafood menu, is much better.
Entry is easy but facilities, apart from the restaurant, minimal.
Ballantyne’s Cove
45° 51.4N, 61° 55W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
Jim Evans 2004, 2008
Directions
Ballantyne’s Cove lies
under tall cliffs a mile and a
half south of Cape George.
It can be identified at night
by a G-W-R sector light, but
the light is low-powered and
not easily seen at a distance.
The entrance to the harbour
is quite close to the shore,
making it a little nervewracking in strong onshore
winds or at night, but there is ample depth through the entrance.
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Anchorage and Berths
There are floating docks (more than in the above photo), some of which are occupied by resident
yachts and, in season, the harbour may be very crowded with tuna fishing boats. Tuna season
usually starts in mid August.
Facilities:
Fuel and water is available. There is power on some docks. There is also a seafood snack bar and
a Bluefin Tuna Interpretive Centre. There is a takeout snackbar.A walk up to the lighthouse is
recommended for the athletically inclined – there is a trail or you can follow the road. The view
is stunning.
Livingstone Cove
45° 52N, 61° 60W
Chart 4462, 4404
Jim Evans 2005 – shore information only
CAUTION There is only a short wharf with room for 3 or 4
boats, very shallow alongside although it would probably be
possible to lie alongside a fishing boat in 5 or 6 feet.
Arisaig
45° 45.6N, 62° 10.3W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
(Jim Evans 2005
– shore information only)
Information from
Northumberland Strait Yachting Association
Directions
Arisaig Harbour range lights FR open at 112°M approximately 12.5 miles south west of Cape
George.
CAUTION There is reported to sometimes be a salmon net strung from the end of the outer
breakwater which runs in a southerly direction almost to the range lights. This net is legal and is
owned by a family who were given “Kings Rights” many years ago. A bow lookout is
recommended on entering this harbour. A third but very shallow wharf is located on the west
side of the ranges. The large white church, on the side of the hill at the highway is very
conspicuous. The highest mountain, reaching 1,100’, along the ranges lies behind Arisaig
Point.A large rock formation, called Frenchman’s Barn, lies in a few feet of water just off the
cliff, approximately one mile east of Arisaig Point.
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(Jim Evans 2005 – I spoke to a fisherman here who suggested that the best depths were on the
west wall and that a sailboat should keep close to this wall when entering. The east side has
about 3 feet at low tide.)
Anchorages and Berths:
There are two wharf/breakwaters on the north side of the shallow harbour, the outer more
northerly one extends 480’. There is a rock obstruction off the southwest corner requiring
caution when manoeuvring in this area; the second 280’ wharf/breakwater allows slightly deeper
- but still shallow - accommodation on its eastern face. A fish plant is located at the head of the
two main wharves.
Facilities
You may be able to get water and ice from the fish plant if it’s operating.
Lismore Wharf (Baillie Brook)
45° 42.4N, 62° 16.4W
Chart 4462, 4404(inset)
(Jim Evans 2005 - Shore information only)
Information from
Northumberland Strait Yachting Association
Directions
The leading range light QR is situated on a 25 ft steel tower at the extreme end of the 800’ stone
protected L- shaped east breakwater; the rear range IsoR4s is located inland on a similar 50 ft
tower. A second stone-wrapped breakwater extends from the west bank, creating a staked “run”
approximately 120ft. wide leading to the 400ft. wharf which lies parallel to the river. Depth
along the wharf face varies from 5ft. to 8ft., a slipway is located at the convergence of the east
and west brooks. The chart shows a depth of 8ft. off the end of the east breakwaterA prominent
white church is situated on the brow of the hill in the village of Lismore at the highway. The hills
and mountains to the south behind the small village reach 800ft. and run along towards Cape
George, creating interesting sailing along the coast caused by the downdraft winds on this shore.
The coastline is bold and landing places are almost nonexistent.Although the water depth looks
deep close to shore, yachts are advised to stay outside the 25ft. depth line.
CAUTION A rock bank showing 5 clearance, is located approximately 0.5 miles NE of the
Baillie Brook east breakwater, just inside the 20 depth line.
Jim Evans, 2005: I took a look at this harbour from the shore and it looked difficult: a very
narrow and shallow entrance, then a sharp bend to port with drying rocks on the outside. Once
inside, the inner harbour was essentially full; there was a floating dock but it was full of fishing
boats moored stern-to. There was room for a boat or two on the north side of the inner harbour.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
81
Merigomish
45º 39.2N, 62º 28.3W
Canadian Chart 4445
Jim Evans 2006, 2009
David Hartman 2008
Directions
The entrance to Merigomish Harbour is
possible even in strong northerly winds,
as the shoals on the eastern side of the
entrance break the waves for the turn in
the channel – although experience
shows it may be rough over the bar.
From the fairway buoy FlR SA2, a
course of 169°T will bring you past FlR
SA6 and within sight of the channel
buoys past the narrows at Savage Point.
Betty Point can be shaved very close;
the water is deep right up to the point. The current flows strongly through here at half flood and
ebb, but is nothing that will cause problems to a boat with a good auxiliary. Keep fairly close to
shore until you round the next point to starboard – there should be a small red buoy here – as
there is an unmarked shoal to the south that comes up very sharply.Local boats usually follow
the narrow and largely unmarked (there were a few stakes and two buoys in 2009) channel up to
Blackhall Gut, a perfectly protected hurricane hole, but even they sometimes find themselves on
the mud. The channel is accurately shown on the chart - I have negotiated it several times by preplotting and following the GPS – but inattention will put you on the mud…
Anchorage and Berths
Blackhall Gut is a perfect anchorage, and there are a couple of moorings provided by Pictou
Yacht Club right at the western end, as well as several private moorings. The area between
Muless and Quarry Islands also offers good anchorage.There is excellent anchorage in behind
Colquhoun Point outside the harbour in westerly conditions - I have ridden out a 25 knot SWesterly in comfort here - in 2-3 fathom sand bottom. In fine weather you can anchor in close
enough to swim ashore to the lovely sand beach - but watch for the tide. It might go out while
you’re having fun and leave you aground.
David Hartman anchored in the lee of Roy Island in a light SW and found it comfortable.
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There is a dock northwest of Savage Point that is reported to be accessible by a narrow channel
at high tide.
Pictou Island45° 48.16N, 62° 35.15W
Canadian Chart 4023, 44830
Jim Evans 2005
There is a tiny harbour close to the western tip of the
island that serves the 12 families that live here year
round. If you want tips on home-schooling your
kids, ask here: they home-school to Grade 8 and
some have home-schooled right through – including
two sisters who reportedly went to Harvard! There
are few attractions here – you can walk along the
road or the beach, although there is also a church
and a dance hall. There is a website:
http://www.pictouisland.com/index.htm.
Directions
The entrance is straightforward from the south. There is about nine feet in the entrance and a
little more inside. The harbour was dredged in 2005 – it was formerly very shallow.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a floating dock (new in 2005) or you can tie to the wall or a fishing boat. Keep clear of
the unloading crane on the south wall.
Facilities:
(The following information is from the website). Pictou Island has a complete fire ban prohibiting
any open fires what so ever. So that means no bonfires. Please respect this. Most of Pictou Island
is private land, so there are no camping areas. However private land does end at the high water
mark. And if you are planning to camp on the beach, please respect the residents and do not
camp in front of any houses or cottages. There are no garbage facilities on the island, so you
must take your garbage back to the mainland with you and dispose of it there. There are no stores
of any nature on Pictou Island, so you alone are responsible for anything that you may need
during your visit. There is a public well located at the Community Centre which is roughly 2.5
miles from the wharf. There is a day park located at the East End of the island. This is roughly 5
miles from the wharf. At it are several picnic tables, a change room and a outhouse. There is no
camping allowed at the park.
Pictou
45º 40.5N, 62º 42.3W
Canadian Chart 4437
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Jim Evans 2005
David Hartman 2008
Directions
The channel is marked for quite large vessels and is straightforward to enter at any state of tide,
day or night.
Anchorage and Berths
The town marina is well-equipped and right in the town (look for the masts of the pioneer
immigrant ship replica Hector – see photo above), but the floats near the entrance tend to be
exposed in a southeasterly. The Pictou Marina at Campbell Point, home to the Pictou Yacht
Club, has a travelift of sorts, gas and diesel and repair facilities, but is a longish hike from town.
The Yacht Club bar is open to visitors and they are a very friendly crowd – club night is Friday.
There is a reasonable anchorage just off the Yacht Club in westerly conditions – right on top of
the start line, so make sure it’s not race night! David Hartman rode out 40 knots, SW to SE,
here with no problems for 24 hours.
Remarks
Pictou is a small, pleasant and historic town with a well-developed waterfront and tourist
facilities including pubs and restaurants and a replica and museum of the Hector, the ship that
reputedly brought the first settlers to Nova Scotia from Scotland. The only supermarket is a long
way from the marina - beyond walking distance. Unfortunately, if the wind is from the southeast
the paper mill on the opposite shore blankets the town with an eye-watering stench like a giant‘s
fart.
Caribou
45°44.34 N, 62º 41.23W
Canadian Chart 4404, 4483
(Jim Evans 2005 - shore observations only)
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Directions
The channel is buoyed and marked for the ferry to Wood Islands, PEI, so entry in all weathers is
straightforward.
Anchorage and Berths
The fishermen’s harbour is to the lower right in the chartlet. There are anchorages to east and
west of the ferry docks, and to the south of Munroe’s Island depending on wind direction.
Remarks
Caribou is the PEI ferry terminus. There are several yachts laid up here in wintertime but I’m not
sure how they are hauled.
Facilities
There is a cafeteria at the ferry terminal.
Tatamagouche Bay
Jim Evans 2009: There are, surprisingly perhaps, some keen sailors in Tatamagouche Bay. They
take some pride in the seemingly essential ability to sail while going aground every time they
tack! They claim it is possible to get a yacht almost up to Tatamagouche village via the staked
channel, but local knowledge would definitely be an advantage here. Barachois Harbour offers
reasonable shelter in south and west winds but the anchorage is wide open to east and north. I
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ventured up the bay and anchored for a night, but chickened out of going further up to
Tatamagouche.
Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club
N 45° 43' 56" W 063° 15' 54"
Bo Garrison 2009
Directions
Full directions are available at
http://www.angelfire.com/ns/BarrachoisYachtClub/directions.html
Facilities:
The Club is located at Sunrise Marina. Bo Garrison recommended it as a friendly place and a
good place to launch his 26-ft trailer-sailer.
Wallace
45º 48.9N, 63º 28.4W
Canadian Chart 4402
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
Entrance is straightforward, aided by a sector light which makes a welcome change from the
usual ranges.
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Anchorage and Berths
If you can squeeze into the snug harbour (above) shelter is complete; however, outside there is a
fair fetch from east and west and, since the river mostly dries, anchoring opportunities are
limited. The village has little to recommend it.
Pugwash
45º 50.8N, 63º 39.8W
Canadian Chart 4498
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
The entrance is tortuous but very well
marked as Pugwash is also home to,
of all things, a huge salt mine and
large ships enter this tiny harbour. If
you are lucky enough to see one of
them turning round in the harbour you will see some real seamanship.
Anchorage and Berths
Yachts dock at the Pugwash Yacht Club float, across the river from the salt dock close to the
road bridge. It isn’t a grand affair - the float (above) is all there is. It is reported that there is an
obstruction on the landward side, so keel boats should keep very close if going inside the
dock.There is a small private marina near the Fisherman’s Wharf but it appeared to be full of
small powerboats when I was there.
Facilities
There is a garage, hardware store and restaurants across the bridge. Seagull Pewter is close by to
the west from the Yacht Club float. There is good clamming on the beach outside the harbour, an
interesting museum and an excellent restaurant.
Remarks
Pugwash is a little gem. Home to the Nobel Peace Prize-winning Pugwash Peace Conferences, it
has benefited greatly from the efforts of philanthropist Cyrus Eaton, a native son. The museum is
worth a visit.
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Cape Tormentine
46º 07.98N, 63º 46.3W
Chart 4905, 4406
Jim Evans 2004
Directions
This is the former ferry terminal, about two miles east of the Bridge, and easy to spot from the
Strait in either direction. A FR light is shown from the outer breakwater.
Anchorage and Berths
There is an enclosed fishermen’s harbour with good shelter. The outer harbour has over 20 feet
depth and enough room for anchoring.
Remarks
There is nothing here except good shelter.
Shediac
Pointe du Chêne
46º 14.45N, 64º 31.74W
Shediac Yacht Club
46º 13.7N, 64º 32.73W
Canadian Chart 4909
Jim Evans 2003, 2004
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Directions
The channel is well buoyed but it is narrow, and shallow outside, particularly close to the Yacht
Club.
Anchorage and Berths
Shediac has two marinas. The first (Pointe du Chêne) incorporates a public wharf, the second is
the home of Shediac Yacht Club. The bay tends to be weedy and shallow and there is not much
suitable room for anchoring.
Facilities
The Yacht Club has all the usual facilities. This is the most convenient marina for the town
although it is still at least a mile to walk downtown. There is a lively sidewalk pub scene in the
summer. Pointe du Chêne is reported to be rather raucous in the season. Eric Radin (2001,2003)
made the point that Shediac is probably too close to Summerside to be much use to anyone
travelling up or down the Strait; however, it does offer an alternative with a quite different
flavour, as it has a distinctively French air. (New Brunswick is Canada’s only officially bilingual
province).
NOTE: The few harbours north of Shediac along this coast are mostly in rivers and very prone
to silting. This is the longest stretch of barrier beach in Canada. Eric Radin passed this way in
2001 and 2003 and recommends local knowledge, as dredging is carried out from time to time
and some harbours may be available. Cocagne Harbour is reported to be very shoal, while
Buctouche has a reasonable entrance (2-3 metres depth) except in an easterly and a very narrow
staked channel up to the town.
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Richibucto
46° 43.52N, 64° 44.47W (Mo A fairway buoy)
Chart 4906, 4909
Eric Radin 2001 and 2003
Jim Evans 2006
90
Directions
The buoys for the entrance over the bar were replaced in 2006 with small plastic ones that are
very hard to see from offshore – particularly if there is any sea running. The entrance in 2006
was basically straight in to shore from the R-W fairway buoy between the red and green, which
are quite far offshore, then follow the line of red buoys along the shore inside the surf. The break
in the bar can be seen as a relatively calm area if the surf is breaking and boats may be seen
along the shore inside the surf line, but the red buoy at the end of the shoal is very hard to see.
It’s all quite easy coming out, but that’s not much help. There is a minimum 9 feet, and more
once across the bar. The Sailing Directions warn of changing conditions but, although the
buoyage has changed since my 1992 chart was printed, the channel hasn’t actually changed
much. This is not to say, of course, that the channel may not change considerably in future…
CAUTION: Some of the local fishermen go in right across the shoals. Following them is
definitely not recommended.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a friendly marina a few miles in on the north side which can handle boats with drafts up
to 6ft. Anchorage is possible in the river above the town.
Facilities
The marina ($25 a night in 2006) has water, power and a shower/washroom. Fuel is available on
the north side of the harbour – there is a speaker phone to the Irving station just up on
shore.There is a supermarket (at the south end of town) and two hardware stores (north on the
main street) within walking distance. A pharmacy is next to the marina. There is a library with
Internet access across the road and several restaurants and snack bars nearby.
Pointe Sapin
46° 57.56’N 64° 49.8’WChart 4906
No personal experience
This small artificial harbour is the only feasible shelter between the Richibucto entrance and
Escuminac some 25 miles further north.
Local sailors reported constant dredging and a minimum of five feet in the harbour in 2006.
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Prince Edward Island
Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province, but it offers some fine cruising. Much of it,
though, is best enjoyed by those with less than six foot draft and some of it is limited to those
with much less.
The Northumberland Strait and east coasts have most of the harbours suitable for keelboats,
although there are some interesting destinations on the north shore. The west coast offers little
more than a nasty lee shore, although it is a pretty sail in good weather.
Although PEI is Canada’s most densely populated Province it is still uncrowded - except perhaps
in Charlottetown on a summer afternoon. Big stores are limited to Charlottetown and
Summerside, but you should be able to find most things in the smaller places. Sunday closing is
no longer observed during the summer except by some smaller stores, although stores in smaller
places may be closed Sunday morning.
Charlottetown has regular flights to major centres (direct to Montreal, Toronto and Halifax); the
Island can also be reached by ferry from Caribou and by the world’s longest bridge over
seasonally-frozen water, the Confederation Bridge.
All of Prince Edward Island’s libraries have broadband Internet access and will let you use a
terminal if you need to check e-mail or whatever.
The Island has a remarkable range of musical talent, from country to classical, and there are
ceilidhs (traditional musical entertainment, usually with local amateur talent) everywhere. If you
check one out you won’t regret it.
Many fishing harbours have someone who stocks basic boating stuff - it’s always worth asking
around, and you’ll find in the process that Islanders are a friendly and helpful bunch. If you need
diesel repairs or parts, try East Coast Engine and Machine in Murray Harbour (see entry under
Murray Harbour).
In many of the smaller harbours you will have to lie alongside a fishing boat. They won’t mind
as long as you don’t mind being woken very early in the morning - and as long as you take your
own lines in to the shore as they do, so they can leave without having to re-tie everything. It goes
without saying that big fenders are de rigueur. Island lobster boats don’t have much in the way of
cleats - typically just a ring on the bows, a recessed cleat on the quarter, and a loop of line or a
hole in a deck knee under the side deck that you can tie on to. If you’re coming alongside a
lobster boat short-handed it helps to have a short line made fast amidships so you can jump
aboard the other boat and get your boat under control by tying to this deck knee quickly while
you run your lines ashore. An old fisherman gave me this tip and it’s a good one. You are
unlikely to be asked to pay in these little places.
This guide covers the whole island, clockwise from the eastern end of the Northumberland Strait.
I haven’t sailed into all the harbours described, but I have had a good look at them from the shore
and I’ve noted that in the text where applicable.
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Fishing areas
The diagram above shows fishing areas around the and southern Gulf. Opening times vary from
year to year and area to area, so it is worth contacting the Department of Fisheries and Oceans at
http://www.glf.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/general/contacts-e.php for details. They can also give information
about the northern Gulf. Listening to VHF broadcasts on the weather channels will also give
some information on fisheries openings and closings (Notices to Fishers). Lobster season is
May-June in the eastern Strait, July-August in the west, and if you want to stay clear of floats try
to stay beyond 10 fathoms (which can’t be done in the west…). If you’re travelling from the
Strait of Canso to eastern PEI, be aware of the Fisherman’s Bank which often has concentrations
of boats day or night, particularly during herring season in August. Tuna normally starts in
August and most of the action is north of the island and out to the east.
Northumberland Strait Ports of P.E.I.
CAUTION – Tides and Currents Although only 75 miles or so long and no more than 25 miles
wide, the tide and winds funnel through the Strait and can kick up some surprisingly nasty seas
and nasty weather, particularly in wind against tide situations. The waves usually seem to be
exactly as far apart as the length of one’s boat… According to the Sailing Directions currents at
the Bridge are related to tides at Yarmouth Nova Scotia, but they are also subject to weather
influences and to an offshoot of the Gaspé Current that lends an overall east-flowing component.
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Generally, though, the major portion of the tidal current seems to run in from either end of the
Strait on the flood, meaning that with a little luck it may be possible to carry a fair tide right
through if you’re not stopping. The current is often less in the middle of the Strait than along the
edges; in particular, it’s worth keeping well clear of Cape Bear, North Cape and West and East
Points, where one can encounter very nasty seas in a wind-over-tide situation. Along the east
side of the island flood tides run south and the ebb runs north, while east of North Cape the ebb
runs south. Tides are generally stronger at the west end of the Island.
Tugs with gravel barges in tow (a long way behind, and often not brightly lit), cruise ships, bulk
carriers and oil tankers may be encountered, though infrequently, in the Strait.
This section covers harbours from east to west.
Wood Islands
45º 57.1N, 62º41.2W
Canadian Chart 4483 (inset)
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
Approach from the east is unobstructed, but when
approaching from the west Rifleman Reef and Bell
Point Reef should be noted and Indian Rocks given a
wide berth. It is possible to pass inside Indian Rocks
with care. Caution is advised when entering or
leaving, as the ferries come in and out at full throttle.
A securité call to ask about the ferries’ intentions
may be a good idea.
Anchorage and Berths
94
This is the rather unlovely northern terminal for the ferry to Nova Scotia, but it offers welcome
shelter on a nasty day. The photo is looking south, and the small-craft dock is to the left in the
photo and right in the sketch (the east side). The sides are sheet metal pilings, so it helps to have
good big fenders and/or a fender board.
It is possible to dock inside the L-shaped pier of the small-craft dock for best shelter but the
entrance is shallow (about 5-foot tidal range). If docking outside of the L-shaped pier avoid the
southern face as it is open to wake and prop-wash from the ferry. The best shelter is found as far
in as possible.
Remarks
There isn’t much here, although you can visit the lighthouse and there are some facilities at the
ferry terminal including washrooms and cafeteria, and Crabbys seafood bar closer to the dock.
There is a tourist information centre and a liquor store half a mile up the road together with one
of the termini of the Confederation Trail, a biking/hiking trail that criss-crosses the Island on old
rail tracks. It’s a nice ride of about 20km to Murray Harbour from here if you have bikes aboard.
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Pinette River
46º 02.7N, 62º 17.1W
Canadian Chart 4466Jim Evans 2005
The entrance to Pinette River is shoal and exposed to the south - safe enough in calm weather or
in winds with a bit of north, but you could find yourself stuck if a strong sou’westerly blows up.
There isn’t any good reason to go in here except that it’s an interesting exercise in piloting.
Directions
96
The approach is across the bar via
a range on Pond Point and then up
the channel. The approach is best
made from the southwest to avoid
the Pinette Shoals, then there is a
green buoy to line you up with the
range; the back marker is only
visible in direct line of sight. The
channel is then well marked but
some of the buoys are very small.
There is a minimum of seven feet
all the way in at low tide once over the five-foot bar.Anchorage and
Berths
The first dock you come to is McAuley’s Wharf to port (right). This is well sheltered but has less
than a couple of feet of water in the entrance.
At the head of navigation (the road bridge) there is another public dock, this one having around
seven feet alongside but a strong current and rather open to the south west, although the banks
break any severe waves.
Anchoring is only possible in the channel, again in a strong current. I tried it for an afternoon and
holding seemed good. A Bahamian moor and good anchor light would be advisable if you’re
staying overnight.
Facilities
There aren’t any facilities close to either dock, although the Pinette Raceway (trotting
Wednesday nights) is a few hundred yards east along the main road.
Hillsborough Bay
Canadian Chart 4466
Jim Evans 2005
Hillsborough Bay is a fine big expanse of water, and
quite , surrounded by green hills and low red - but the
water is spread rather thinly. There is good anchorage
to the north of St. Peter’s Island (St. Peters Roads) - a
surprisingly sheltered spot as the half-tide bar blocks swells even when covered. Holding is
good.
CAUTION Beware of the spit that projects northward a long way from St. Peter’s Island. The
end is unmarked.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Charlottetown
46º13.8N, 63º 07.3W
Jim Evans 200
Fred Keire 2006
Directions
The approach to Charlottetown is straightforward: there are huge, brilliantly lit ranges for the
benefit of oil tankers and gravel barges (P.E.I. has to import all its gravel!) and the occasional
large cruise ship (the photo above is of one at the marine terminal). The range lights make night
entrance easy, although it can be difficult to identify the marinas against the city lights.
CAUTION Beware of moorings near the Yacht Club if you enter at night – the moored boats are
very hard to see; there is also quite a strong current across the entrance at half tide.
Anchorage and Berths
There are two docking choices: Charlottetown Yacht Club and Peake’s Quay (right above).
There is possible anchorage in the North and West Rivers - both are subject to strong currents.
You could also anchor off the moorings near the Yacht Club.
Facilities
Both marinas have restaurants and fuel, water and electricity, and showers (laundry at the Yacht
Club) and are very close to downtown. The Yacht Club is friendlier and a little quieter, while
Peake’s Quay is surrounded by tourist-oriented shops and often has bands, dancers and so on
plus a noisy pub deck. The Yacht Club has been known to get raucous on weekends, too.
Fred Keire: The yacht club is rather exposed to the winds in the harbour and visiting yachts are
typically berthed on the outer face of rather substantial floating docks. Inside the floating docks
the waters appeared to be calm. If a berth cannot be secured to one of the inside slips when
higher winds from the wrong direction are expected, it would be advisable to seek space in the
98
Quartermaster’s Marina. Diesel at both establishments was sold at very competitive rates. At the
Quartermaster’s Marina, there are no laundry facilities and while the toilets for use by the marina
guests are shared with the public, the unisex showers are only key accessible.
Jim Evans: The Yacht Club has a nominal 10,000 lb hoist (which couldn’t handle my Freedom
28’s nominal 7,000 lbs). A heavy crane (Brown’s Crane Service) is available in town and
Quartermaster Marine at Peakes Quay has a hydraulic trailer.
If you need chandlery there is a very limited selection at Quartermaster Marine at Peake’s Quay.
There is a much better selection at Atlantic Warehousing on Garfield Street - about a mile east
along the bypass – lots of rope, blocks, foulweather gear etc.
Remarks
The Delta Prince Edward, just around the corner from the Yacht Club, is a fine hotel and offers
excellent meals at surprisingly reasonable prices. The Gahan House Pub on Sidney Street has
superb mussels, the best fish and chips in town and great micro-brewery beer, too. The
Merchantman Pub at the bottom of Queen St. is convenient to the harbour and has good food.
There are also many other good restaurants and pubs in the downtown area, often with live
entertainment. There is a good art cinema (the City Cinema, corner of King and Queen) and
regular exhibitions, shows and concerts at the Confederation Centre of the Arts, the Guild and
the Mack. The library at the Confederation Centre has current periodicals etc. and Internet
access, and there is a street of cafés on Victoria Row which includes an Internet café. There are
lots of gift shops The Confederation Square Mall just up Queen Street has shopping including
Canadian Hydrographic Charts at The Bookmark and is a wi-fi hotspot.
There is a small grocery store (Clover Farm) at the bottom of Queen Street. if you need to reprovision a bus service that runs from downtown up University Ave. to the big Atlantic
Superstore on University at Belvedere and the usual big-box stores plus department stores
/shopping mall at the top end of University.
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Victoria
46º 12.7N, 63º 29.3W
Canadian Chart 4405
Jim Evans 2005
Dave Heffler 2008
Directions
Victoria is approached via a
winding but fairly wellmarked channel between
shoals which give some
shelter to the wharf. The
channel moves frequently
and the buoys may or may
not show the best channel.
CAUTION A rising tide
approach is a good idea:
there may be much less than
five feet in the channel at
dead low. In 2005 the bank
protruded well west of the
last red buoy and the
channel nearly dried at low
springs. Victoria has the
largest tidal range along this shore: over 8.5 ft. at springs.
Anchorage and Berths
Berthage ($16 in 2005) is against the wharf and may be crowded. Best shelter is on the east side
except in easterly winds, outer end for best depth. Even where the chart shows seven feet beside
the wharf my 4’6” was firmly aground on a spring tide. Shelter is very good at low tide but the
wharf is less secure from the south and southeast when the banks cover, although they still break
major waves. There is no anchorage. Power (15A) and water points are on the wharf.
Remarks
Victoria claims to be the prettiest town in somewhere or other - and it is a lovely little place.
Facilities
The restaurant on the wharf is good and there’s a pub (live music Saturday nights - a detraction if
you want a quiet night, and the patrons tend to use your decks as an ashtray). There’s an
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excellent second-hand book shop if you need to replenish the ship’s library, a playhouse with
summer theatre, and lots of craft shops, antique stores, a great chocolate shop and cafés. There‘s
also good clamming and walking on the flats and a little beach near the wharf for the kids. Ice
(the shaved fisherman’s kind) is available by the bucket from the seafood store and fish plant
(the white building east along the shore road). The nearest grocery store, though, is in Crapaud
over a mile away.
Borden
46º 14.7N, 63º 41.9W
Canadian Chart 4905
Jim Evans 200, 2006
Directions
The harbour at Borden is the former ferry dock and is almost in the shade of the new bridge to
the mainland. The entrance is clearly marked by buoys and a range (027 1/2°) between the
harbour wall and a separate breakwater. The harbour is easy to enter in any conditions, but take
care through the bridgeduring Fall lobster fishermen set traps right in the marked channel and
the buoys tend to get towed under in the strong currents here.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a public dock, although only the outer part is deep enough for a sailboatholding is good
for anchoring. Shelter is not quite as good as you might expect, as waves seem to reflect into the
harbour from the breakwater in some conditions, but it is safe and a welcome port on a nasty day.
Facilities
No facilities unless you walk up to the tourist shops, gas station etc. at the bridge toll terminal about a mile away.
Summerside
46 23.25N, 63 47.2W
Chart 4406, 4459
Jim Evans 2005, Fred Keire 2006, Dave Heffler 2008, David Hartmann 2008
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101
Directions
The approach is well marked by lighted ranges and buoys and is straightforward in all conditions
or at night.
Anchorage and Berths
The Silver Fox Yacht and Curling Club (one way to make the most of our Canadian seasons!)
has a large marina (above photo). : David Hartmann anchored just outside the markers opposite
the main shipping dock. CAUTION Jim Evans: Although the Dunk River appears suitable for
anchoring, the channel is unmarked, holding is poor and there is a mysterious current which
wraps rodes around keels...
Facilities
Fred Keire: The Silver Fox Curling and Yacht Club has an excellent marina with all the
facilities such as clean showers and toilets, a restaurant and good alongside floats for visiting
yachts. Internet is a short distance away at the public library. Fuel is available at the marina. It is
a delightful, friendly place to stay especially if one has to ride out bad weather.
Remarks
There is a good selection of shops and restaurants including all the usual fast food outlets.
Spinnakers Landing has gifty places and ice-cream and often offers free concerts.
Summerside has made a major effort in recent years to improve its waterfront and in 2005 it will
be completing a walkway the length of the waterfront. The town still lacks cohesiveness, though.
While it may not be the Provincial capital there is plenty of culture on offer, including regular
Celtic music concerts by the College of Piping and in the large cultural centre close to the Yacht
Club.
The large mall just outside the Yacht Club has been turned into condominiums and the nearest
supermarket is now Sobey’s on Granville Street.
102
West Point
46º 37.1N, 64º 22.3W
Canadian Chart 4905
Jim Evans 2005, 2006
Directions
I could not see an entrance range (although there is one in the undated photo above) but a
daymark on the east end of the pier and three red buoys indicate the way in. There is a minimum
of about 6 feet on the way in (provided you keep close to the red buoys – don’t venture too far
over to the west) and more in the harbour. It is shallow close to the wall on the way in but there
was at least six feet in the middle of the entrance in 2006.
Anchorage and Berths
Tie to the harbour wall or to the floats if there is room- but be aware that there is not much depth
( - less than 4’6’ at some of the floats) No anchorage.
Remarks
West Point is a secure harbour and had plenty of room in June and July 2005 although it was
fairly busy in September 2006.
Facilities
There is a small snack bar and convenience store with a very limited selection at the harbour but
there is a good restaurant at the black-and-white-banded lighthouse that you can see from the
harbour: first left out of the harbour or walk along the beach.
West Coast of PEI
The following harbours are approached over very shallow bars and have very little water inside. I
have only shore experience of them. They are really only suitable for shoal draft power craft.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
103
Howard‘s Cove (Seal Point)
46° 44.4N, 64° 56.5W
Canadian Chart 4906
Shore information only
Two breakwaters form a narrow run into a small harbour with 2 to 4 foot depths.
Miminegash
46° 52.7N, 64° 14W
Canadian Chart 4906
Shore information only
Miminegash has a very narrow, shallow entrance, sheltered slightly by an off-lying reef.
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North Shore of PEI
Tignish
46° 56.2N, 63° 59.4W
Chart 4023, Diagram in Sailing Directions
Shore information only – Jim Evans 2008
Directions
Tignish has a long, shallow (2 metres in the entrance but less than a metre at the exit from the
breakwaters into the harbour proper) and very narrow run between long breakwaters. It doesn’t
look like a good prospect except perhaps in calm conditions at slack high water: turning around
once committed would be difficult at best. However, some of the wharves have over 2 metres
alongside. Dredging and wharf repairs are proposed for this harbour (2009), which may make it
more accessible.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
105
Alberton (Northport)
46º 47.7N, 64º 03.4W
Canadian Chart 4023, 4492
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
CAUTION Northport is the best harbour between Souris and Summerside on the north side of
the Island - is approached over a bar that is reputed to be impassable in some conditions of wind
and tide (several lives were lost in a fishing boat capsize and rescue here about 15 years ago). In
good conditions there are reported to be no problems; the Sailing Directions says that currents in
the entrance are typically less than 1 ½ knots but can exceed 4 knots. I entered at what according
to Visual Navigator was low slack in a south-easterly 15 knots and encountered over four knots
ebb, four to six foot breaking waves and, to add to the fun, two buoys way off station (one was
on the beach) and, apparently, no entrance range! It was too hairy to turn around and very scary.
The final range, at the dock, was very hard to see against afternoon sun. I guess this was one of
the exceptional circumstances referred to in the Directions.
On leaving, again in a southeasterly but at slack tide, it was a little bumpy but no trouble at all. A
missing light had been replaced on the front range (I had taken the back one for an errant street
lamp!).
The entrance changes constantly – if you can, ask before you enter.
Anchorage and Berths
Northport has floating docks, (berthage $12 plus GST in 2005), and claims to offer marina
services with power (15A), water and showers, but all there was at the end of June was wall-towall fishing boats with no place at all except to raft alongside. I saw no sign of the
harbourmaster, so at least it didn’t cost anything. The floating docks are in the first dock that you
come to upon entering the harbour - the top dock in the photo above.
The bay north of Fox Island is a snug spot but partly filled with mussel rafts. A pair of ospreys
was raising a family on the island in 2005. There is a real hurricane hole at the top of the Dock
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River, just past Dock Creek, with excellent holding; I rode out a very severe thunderstorm here.
This anchorage should also be convenient for getting into Alberton by dinghy; it looks as though
landing should be possible close to the road bridge, saving a long walk.
Beware of buoyage in Cascumpeque Bay: it seems designed to lure the unwary onto the shoals!
The apparent shortcut around Berry Head was less than the four feet shown in 2005.
Remarks
Northport is about 105 miles from Havre Aubert in the Iles de la Madeleine or 95 miles from
Etang du Nord, making it a potential jumping-off point for the islands.
There is a tourist centre at the dock with restaurant, gift shops, washrooms and a history of some
of the more alarming shipwrecks of the area. There is also a quite large hotel. Ice is available
from the fish plant but it is a long walk to Alberton for groceries.
CAUTION: All the north shore bays have shallow, constantly-changing entrances that are open
to northerly swell and wind. The only conditions for a safe entrance for those not familiar with
the entrances would be in light conditions with offshore wind and no swell: and then you may
have to wait for the same thing to get out again.
I had hoped to visit the following harbours in 2005 but a big swell was coming in off the Gulf
and instead I was faced with a 24-hour trip round to Souris. That’s fairly typical!
Malpeque Bay
46° 35N, 63° 37W
Chart 4023, 4491
The entrance to Malpeque Bay doesn’t look bad (if
you consider ten feet over constantly shifting shoals
in a channel which is completely blocked by breakers
in bad weather not bad). The Sailing Directions
consider the latest information essential for safe
entry. Currents may be strong in the channel and
inside the harbour, which has a lot of oyster
cultivation.
New London Bay
46° 31.8’N, 63° 28.2’W
Chart 4023, 4467
(Shore information only Jim Evans 2005, 2008)
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This is another shallow, narrow, changeable entrance requiring the latest information. Once
inside there are two narrow channels, both subject to strong currents, leading into the bay which
tends to be busy with aquaculture. There is a small wharf at Stanley Bridge at the head of the
bay. Yachts do get into New London Bay; I saw a 35-40 footer anchored here in 2005.
Rustico Bay
46° 27.3’N. 63° 17.6’W
Chart 4023, 4467
(Shore information only Jim Evans 2005, 2008)
CAUTION I talked to a fisherman in Rustico and
he said that his boat regularly hits bottom in the
entrance with about four-foot draft. He didn’t think
much of the idea of taking a keelboat into there…
Directions
The latest charts are essential, and local knowledge
is recommended in anything but fine conditions.
Berths and Anchorages
There is a fishermen’s wharf to starboard inside
the entrance, then a small, well-sheltered but
shallow marina. It would be possible to anchor upchannel past the marina, but the channel is fairly
narrow and currents strong.
Facilities
The little town has a grocery and a couple of restaurants. There is a garage with diesel..
St. Peter’s Bay
46º 26.8N, 62° 44.3W
Canadian Chart 4425
(Shore information only Jim Evans 2004)
CAUTION The entrance to St. Peter’s Bay is narrow,
twisting and exposed, but it is well marked. Once in it is possible to get nearly up to the village
of St. Peter’s, where there is a garage and a couple of restaurants, although ther bay is very much
108
encumbered by mussel farms. A powerboater I spoke to commented that he had found the
entrance scary, so it is probably not recommended for sailboats except in very favourable
conditions. The Greenwich National Park nearby is very well worth a visit, , with spectacular
dunes, wonderful beaches and a lovely trail through a little forest and across the marshes via a
floating boardwalk.
CAUTION The harbours at Naufrage and North Lake are both blocked by low bridges –
even lobster boats have to lower their antennas.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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East Shore of PEI
Souris
46° 20.86N, 62° 15.3W
Chart 4403, 4419
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
CAUTION Watch for the Magdalen Islands ferry and for smaller craft appearing around the end
of the high breakwater as you approach or leave. There are no dangers in the approaches. The
marina is at the head of the first (southernmost) dock.
Anchorage and Berths
Souris is one of the best harbours on the island, The surroundings are still rather industrial,
though, although efforts are being made to clear things up. Shelter has not always been
comfortable in the past (although it doesn’t get dangerous) but the new docks should help as they
are in the most sheltered corner of the dock. There is no sheltered anchorage away from traffic.
The best shelter is in the fishermen’s harbour but it is usually very crowded.
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Facilities
There are showers, washrooms and laundry (all wheelchair accessible) and the office has
magazines to read on a rainy day. Electricity and water on all docks The marina is investigating
an arrangement to supply fuel (gas and diesel) from the fishermen’s dock. Berthage was $20 in
2009.
If you need help or information Eric Gallant (687-1891 (home) or 969-2262 (cell)) is a sailor and
member of the marina committee.
Souris has a big travel-lift (capable of lifting draggers) which is available to yachts. Peter
Boertien is a skilled and careful operator and will arrange shoring-up for a boat. Winter storage
is available on the docks here for a reasonable fee but the location is somewhat exposed,
although the authorities seem to be making more of an effort to put sailboats in better shelter
than in previous years (2008). Most boats were stored mast-up in 2008-9 and I’m not aware of
any problems. Tarps (unless heavy, well fitted and well tied down) aren’t likely to last long,
though. This is a cold place in the spring - don’t plan on starting your season much before the
middle of May. Harbourmaster is Art MacDonald (Margo Robertson Secretary) – 902 687-7209
FAX 902 687-7210 e-mail SHAI@ppei.aibn.com
There is a marine equipment store (Lea-Mac Marine& Electronics (902) 687 3225) at 81 Main
Street. T&G Welding (687-1666) does aluminum welding and Eastern Upholstery (687-1520)
close by can make sail and canvas repairs and excellent heavy-duty winter covers.
Remarks
About half a mile uphill (turn left at the junction at the top of the hill) is a shopping plaza with a
supermarket, hardware store and pharmacy. There is a small greasy-spoon takeout near the docks
and a couple of restaurants downtown. The Bluefin, a family restaurant, is the best (but still not
much): take the left turn at the bottom of the hill. It’s a pleasant walk of about half a mile. The
lighthouse should be open to the public in 2010.
The ferry to the Iles de la Madeleine leaves from here, making Souris a possible crew-change
point. This is the best jumping-off point for the 73-mile passage to the Iles de la Madeleine - a
reasonable overnighter (or a possible day trip for a fast boat) from here.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Fortune Bay
46° 19.7N, 62° 20.93W
Chart 4403 - there is no detailed chart.
Jim Evans 2005
Directions
There is a green buoy NC1 and three reds (2 of which have R lights) close inshore. There may
also be a sector light on the north breakwater - it is low-powered and not easily seen from a
distance. The channel has about six feet or a little less at low tide and deepens once between the
breakwaters. The north breakwater (north is at the bottom in the photo above) is ruinous except
for the inshore part, which is very shoal.
Anchorage and Berths
The southern side of the narrowest part of the entrance has about 10 feet. On the south side there
is a small dock with 4-5 feet inside, soft mud, deeper outside. There is a buoyed channel leading
to Fortune Bridge - a couple of miles upstream - but it was a falling tide and I didn’t risk it
although it is reported to have 10 feet all the way up. It is tortuous and barely a couple of boatlengths wide.
CAUTION Holding anywhere inside the harbour entrance is poor, in very soft mud and thick
weed. Just outside you might find reasonable holding and shelter in hard sand in westerly
conditions.
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Remarks
There are no facilities but this is a very pretty and peaceful spot which would make a pleasant
alternative to Souris if one didn’t need any services. The beautiful Inn at Bay Fortune (local base
of TV chef Michael Smith) is a short walk upriver and offers fine dining and accommodations in
lovely surroundings at prices to match. There is reputed to be excellent take-out food about three
miles away .
Annandale
46º 15.4N, 62° 25.4W
Canadian Chart 4421
Jim Evans 2003
Directions
The entry over the bar into Annandale looks scarier on the chart than it is in fact, in good weather
at least. There is a very high and conspicuous back range on the shore, although the much-lower
front range is hard to see. The channel buoys are changed from time to time although the
published chart was accurate in 2003. There are now two small docks – the lower dock shown
above has been extended. North is at the left in the photo.
CAUTION The water is shoal just outside and in the entrances of these docks - entry or exit at
less than half tide may be difficult - but there is enough to lie inside with at least five feet at all
states of the tide. You will probably have to lie alongside a fishing boat. Lie with bows toward
the entrance if at all possible as a chop can come in from the south.
Remarks
There are no facilities - just a charming hamlet of a dozen houses and some very friendly locals
who would probably give you a ride somewhere if you needed anything. Ask at one of the
houses if you need to fill a water jug or use a phone.
The Boughton River is deep enough for exploration for about six miles upstream but there is a
nasty series of unmarked shoals just beyond the harbour and strong currents in this area which
may discourage the cautious.
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113
Launching Bay
46°12.1N, 62°25.5W
Chart 4403, 4422Jim Evans 2005
Remarks
This is a lovely spot and would offer a charming
anchorage behind a long, shallow, grassy dune
which joins Boughton Island to the main
island.(shown as covering on my chart but clearly
high and dry) – if most of the available area were not full of mussel buoys and if they had not
encroached on the channel with very poorly marked buoys that make the approach quite
hazardous. The main thing to remember is that the yellow buoys are actually on both sides of the
channel, although it’s hard to tell which is which and there are a few errant white floats in the
middle to add to the confusion. Trust your depthsounder and GPS – and have a sharp knife handy
if you venture in; I, for one, have little sympathy for this misuse of aquaculture as others have
proved that it can be done responsibly elsewhere in the area.
Three Rivers Area
Canadian Chart 4422
Georgetown
46° 10.6N, 62° 32WJim Evans 2003, 2005
Remarks
Georgetown is an attractive little place and has a playhouse, a gas bar/mini-market on the Main
Street and a nice restaurant (Clamdiggers). In contrast to the 1992 report in the Cruising Guide to
Nova Scotia, the Georgetown Shipyard is now thriving, building big tugboats for the Panama
Canal and other places, and there is a branch of Holland College (welding and diving training perhaps a source of expertise if you need it?).The Fishermen’s Wharf has recently been enclosed
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and is now well-sheltered but usually chock-full of fishing boats. It’s possible to tie up outside
the wharf in settled weather. Anchorage is available to the west of the wharves in reasonable
shelter except from the SW, or between the wharves except in SE. Check with the
harbourmaster if you need diesel or water, as he may be able to supply you from the Railway
Wharf.
Cardigan River
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
The Cardigan River is to my mind the most beautiful of the three rivers and easily navigated to
the road bridge at its head. There are a lot of mussel-growing facilities (although fewer than in
the other two rivers) but they are well marked with red and green buoys and the channel is easily
seen - in fact, the mussel farms delineate the best channel quite clearly. Cautioned is required at
the head of the river as the channel becomes narrow and quite shoal in spots, although it is
possible to carry at least 5ft. up to the docks.
Anchorage and Berths
There are several well-sheltered anchorages (the little bay inside NJ15 has a nice beach) and a
marina at the head of navigation at the road bridge The current runs fast between the floating
docks and fixed wharf at the marina.
Facilities
The marina has showers, laundry, water and electricity.
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115
There are two restaurants close to the marina. If you need serious work done, or to buy bearings
and oil seals etc., there is a machine and welding shop - Cardigan Bearing and Steel - just up the
hill. There are two garages and a small store right by the bridge, and a liquor store rather further
away.
Brudenell River
Jim Evans 2005
Anchorage and Berths
There is a marina at the large resort on the north bank, with all the usual facilities plus access to
the resort restaurant and an excellent golf course.
It is possible to anchor in behind the mussel rafts in several spots provided one does not leave too
much scope out.
Montague
46° 10’N, 62° 39’W
Chart 4422
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
Just follow the river
between the mussel
beds.
There
are
several large lit buoys.
Only after the second
bend before the town
do things become at
all tight; you will see
several boats moored,
they are all in deep
water. Just before the docks note that the channel is staked: it is shallow outside the stakes here.
The current is strong at the docks at half-tide.
Anchorage and Berths
The marina at Montague has ample depth, although room is limited and there is a strong tidal
current at the docks (arriving on a rising tide makes docking easier). However, the 75-foot
Palawan managed to get alongside here in 2003. Maneuvering into the fuel dock is particularly
tight. Diesel and gas are available at the fuel dock (by the small hut on the waterfront).
116
CAUTION: Large quantities of sea-lettuce are often swept down the river in high summer and
may block water intakes and wrap around steering gear – worth a check before you leave.
There is no anchorage by the town but there is room around the first bend downstream on the
north and west sides (there are several private moorings here).
There is also a wharf at Lower Montague with about ten feet alongside, well sheltered except
from the north, but it is busy in lobster season and busy with mussel farming activities the rest of
the time. Anchorage close by is reasonably sheltered if you don’t want to go up the river. No
facilities here.
Facilities
Montague has water and power to all docks and showers although the shower room is attached to
a public washroom and so rather insecure. Gas and diesel are available at the fuel dock. There is
a small restaurant in the visitor centre but I have not found food or service to be good.
Harbourmaster Jock Beck is a fount of good advice on the area.
Remarks
Montague is the main centre of this end of the island and offers most facilities. There is
restaurant (Windows on the Water) by the road bridge, with a fairly ambitious menu and a view
of the marina from its deck , and a large selection of fast food up town. This is a good place for
provisioning: the closest supermarket is Sobey’s (1/4 mile up the hill), with Atlantic Superstores
about quarter of a mile further; the DownEast Mall opposite has a Radio Shack. There are two
large hardware stores, an auto parts store, pharmacies and several banks close to the marina, but
the liquor store is a few miles out of town. Laundry facilities are available at Lane’s Cottages
(first street on the right up from the marina). There is another laundromat in the DownEast Mall
but it’s a pretty grubby sort of joint.
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR
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Graham’s Pond
46° 05.73N, 62° 27.1W
Canadian Chart 4023
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
There is a red and white buoy about ½ mile east of the entrance. Steer directly towards the group
of buildings on shore. There is a red buoy at the entrance marking a rock pile, but the entrance
itself is clear of obstructions and was dredged in 2009. When leaving get a good offing before
turning north or south, as there are shoals.
Anchorage and Berths
There is about 5 feet in the channel and harbour – tie to the wall or a fishing boat - and about the
same in the pond itself where there is limited room to anchor.
Facilities
The “Kitchen at the Crick” takeout offers the usual takeout fare.
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Murray Harbour
46º 02.1N, 62º 27.1W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2009
The photo above shows Murray Harbour from the north. Beach Point is in the far distance, with
Nova Scotia faintly visible beyond. Cahoon’s Wharf is in the foreground - it’s possible to get in
here with care - Clow’s Wharf and the Murray Islands beyond. Sandspits out on the islands often
have seals on them – worth a dinghy trip on a fine day.
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119
Directions
CAUTION The entrance to
Murray Harbour is good by
local standards but should
definitely be avoided in a
strong easterly gale,
particularly on the ebb, as the
seas break right to the bottom
on the bar. It is safe in all other
conditions.
The entrance changes
somewhat each year. You
should have no trouble carrying
at least seven feet at lowest tide
to the entrance. There is a
conspicuous range which works well until one gets close to the entrance; however, the best
course in 2009 was to take a straight line from the red-and-white fairway buoy towards the front
range. Watch for first the FlG buoy (the shallowest part of the bar is close to this) and then the
red as you approach the entrance - favour the red, then look for the red lighted buoy NM8 just
inside the entrance. A shoal makes out eastward from Beach Point (Oldstore Point) eastward
(the edge of the shoal is very abrupt and it dries at low tide) and northward of the point. A small
green buoy was added to the south side of the channel close to the entrance in 2008. Favour the
north side in the entrance. When the sun is out and the water clear the shoals are obvious, but
may be harder to see after a storm. Currents run strongly here – up to 4 knots - and mixing of the
water layers sometimes gives false sonar readings (with consequent imminent heart failure) just
inside, but there is in fact at least 20 feet. It’s not as difficult as it sounds – I routinely sail in and
out from my mooring.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a lovely quiet
anchorage in by Gordon’s
Island (46° 01.323N, 62°
29.786W), perfectly sheltered
from northerly winds and
fairly well sheltered from the
rest by the shallow banks to
the south. This was an
anchorage in the days of
working sail when the
schooners that sailed from
this area to Cape Breton and
Newfoundland with Island
produce were sheltering or
waiting for a tide or a wind. The island used to have several homes and a canning factory.
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The channel is easy to see at low tide after rounding Sable Point but even when the banks are
covered it is easily found by taking it slowly and using the depth sounder. Once the channel has
been located follow in to the middle of the island where anchorage may be found for several
vessels in about 16 - 17 feet. Although there is a channel westward shown on the chart it is hard
to find and has shoaled.
Many of the other potential anchorages have been taken over by mussel farms.
It appears on the chart that there might be a potential anchorage at Cody Point, Murray Harbour
North, but the old piers are ruinous and completely shoaled in.
Beach Point
46º 01N, 62º 92.2W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2008
Remarks
The locals call Beach Point ‘‘the Cape’’ or ‘‘the Bull Pen’’. It’s a busy place in lobster season,
but they won’t throw you out. Out of season it’s well-sheltered, with easy access through a short,
well-buoyed channel. There’s power and possibly water available; you may be able to get lobster
and ice from the plant, although it was closed in late 2009. It’s half a mile or so to a nice beach at
Beach Point (much quicker by dinghy, but watch the current in the entrance).
Improvements were being carried out in 2009.
Machon’s Point
Wharf
46º 00.8N, 62º 30.8W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
The range on Machon’s Point
should be followed closely
from green lighted buoy
NM14. The channel is fairly
wide but the depth fluctuates;
in
particular there is a shallow spot a few hundred feet before the green buoy NM16 which
continued to shoal in 2009 to about 6ft. low water. Efforts are being made locally to get some
dredging done. As soon as the range into Murray Harbour village from NM15 lines up (have
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121
binoculars ready, it’s hard to see the range in daylight although it’s easy to see after dark – the
range is just to the left of the church spire) turn hard to port onto the range around the buoy.
There are shoals close on either hand at this point and the current can be strong on the beam for
the first hundred yards or so; it’s easy to drift onto the shoals. The channel into the village is
staked but the stakes are in the shallows - the range accurately shows the deepest water right
through the narrows just past Machon’s Point wharf. There is at least ten feet all the way in - but
the channel is narrow. Take care turning into Machon’s Point Wharf: there are shoals on both
sides and it isn’t very deep in the middle! The wharf itself is usually busy, but you can anchor in
the bay.
Remarks
Machon‘s Point Wharf is best avoided in lobster season and in herring season - it’s very noisy
and crowded with much coming and going. The rest of the year the only reason to go here rather
than Murray Harbour a short distance away is that there is a fishermen’s co-op chandlery (they
have good things like boat nails, stainless nuts and bolts, epoxy, antifouling, foul weather gear,
rope and fishing tackle) in the shack above the wharf (nearest the road by the parked boats on the
left in the photo above).
Murray Harbour Village
46º 00.3N, 62º 31.3W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
Simply follow the staked channel on past Machon’s Point Wharf - it is quite deep and wide once
past the narrows and the stakes are reliable past this point.
As you come in look for ‘‘Nellie Lamb’’ on her mooring in front of the yellow bungalow inshore
from the last red stake before the harbour (that’s her picking up the mooring above). If she’s not
122
there feel free to use the mooring - but be aware there’s only five feet or so at low water springs.
The mud’s so soft you may not notice... If she is there come ashore and say hi!
Anchorage and Berths
As well as the public docks on both sides of the river (power available if you have a long
extension and can find the outlets) Murray Harbour boasts Jamie Richards’ ‘‘Bowdridge
Landing’’ marina: (902)962 2427. The marina is in the small indentation in the south river bank
at the top of the photo above – the floating docks are not shown in the photo – and there was a lot
of dredging done in 2009. Murray Harbour offers the best shelter south of Montague - Hurricane
Juan hardly disturbed boats in here while it wreaked havoc in Charlottetown.
Facilities
The marina has a shower and toilet, and power and water on the docks. Jamie will go out of his
way to help with anything you need. In the village there is a small supermarket hardware store
and a post office (up the hill at the top of the photo) and a good small restaurant (Brehaut’s their chowder is recommended) across the bridge. There is a gas station with diesel and good
mechanic just across the road from the docks.
A machine shop (East Coast Engine and Machine), situated just west of the village, is equipped
to do major engine rebuild and installation work. They provide a manufacturer's authorized sales,
warranty parts and service centre for: Deutz*, Lister Petter, Daewoo/Doosan, Iveco,
Yanmar* , Hatz*, Ford power products*, Kohler diesel*, Robin, Subaru*, Mann filters* , Lofa
control panels, and Farymann*. (*Exclusive to PEI)
Contact Person: Alan Baker or Scott MacNevin
Telephone: (902) 741-3500
Alt. Telephone: (902) 741-3501
Toll-free: 902 460-3501
Facsimile: (902) 741-3502
Email:
Most other things can be organised if you ask around.
Often there is a ceilidh at the Community Centre on Friday nights. The library at the Community
Centre has high-speed Internet access.
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Murray River
46º 00.8N, 62º 36.6W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
Instead of turning west towards Murray Harbour, continue past Machon’s Point (the point, not
the wharf) and watch for several small green and red buoys (they change with some regularity)
and then the QR NM30 buoy marking the turn into the Murray River.The Murray River is
navigable (the first part is easy - just follow the mussel farms) to the dock at the road bridge in
the village of Murray River.
Anchorage and Berths
There are a couple of floating docks but one is used by a seal-watching tour boat and the other by
fishing and mussel boats. There may be room for you, but please ask. There is room to anchor in
the river but take care not to block the fairway as it is used by a floatplane which gives aerial
tours.
Remarks
There is a gas station/convenience store just across the road. There is no proper grocery or
hardware store, but there is a seasonal ice cream shop, a book store and a couple of gift stores.
There is a bank, too (CIBC). The award-winning Eagle’s View golf course (nine holes) is a short
walk up river across the bridge.
Greek River
46º 02.5N, 62º 31.7W
Canadian Chart 4420
Jim Evans 2009
Directions
Continue past the Murray River entrance towards the bold spit (McInnis Point) somewhat to
starboard. Turn sharply around it - a stake often (but not always) marks its underwater extent then watch for Clow’s Wharf (shown as ruined on older charts but now repaired and busy) to
starboard and the entrance to the Greek River to port. Take it slow, keep to the watching for the
stakes, and it is possible to get alongside Cahoon’s Wharf. This stretch is a popular swimming
hole for the local fishermen’s families and you may meet a lobster boat or two anchored along
here. There are no facilities.
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Miramichi Bay to Baie des Chaleurs and Cap de Gaspé
Escuminac
47° 04.8N, 64° 53.2W
Chart 4906Eric Radin 2001, 2003
Jim Evans 2006
David Hartmann 2008
Eric Radin mentions that this double basin about 6NM west of Point Escuminac outside the
south shore of Miramichi Bay is popular with Québécois cruisers and certainly offers shelter
without the long haul up to Miramichi. Work was carried out on the harbour in 2001 to repair ice
damage.
Only the inner basin is deep enough for sailboats.
Jim Evans: In 2006 dockage was $8.50 – not a great bargain as there weren’t any facilities
except a good sheltered dock shared with the fishermen and a quantity of herring scales, and a
small restaurant just across the road which opens at 0600 and is reputed to serve excellent fish (it
ought to be fresh!).
David Hartmann: “ was concerned about the depth in the marina so anchored instead just
off the beach in 5 m water at 47º05.19'N 064º56.12'W. The ground was a bit hard and took a
while to dig in. It was well sheltered for the wind from the SW.”
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Miramichi
47° 05.88N, 64° 56.5W
Chart 4906, 4911, 4912
(Shore information only, Jim Evans 2003)
Miramichi is at the end of a long and tortuous channel. There is a good dredged channel into the
river, well buoyed and lighted, plus a number of other entrances which would definitely demand
local knowledge.
The town is a grimy, smelly industrial place with high unemployment and a recent history of
bitter labour unrest, poor relations with Burnt Church First Nation and a high crime rate. Hardly
an enticing recipe for a cruising destination, but one is sometimes surprised by what one finds on
arrival by boat so perhaps it’s worth a try just out of interest if you’re in the area. Amazing,
really, that the upper Miramichi is a salmon river producing nearly half of North America’s rodcaught salmon. You have to hire a guide to fish, though.
The wharf at Loggieville (about halfway upriver) was due to be dredged, improved and to have
floating docks installed in 2006.
The Miramichi Boating and Yacht Club is situated on the right bank of the Miramichi River just
after you pass under the Centennial Bridge at Chatham, New Brunswick.
Shippagan Gully
47° 43.0N, 64° 39.9W
Chart 4913, 4920
Eric Radin 2001 and 2003
Jim Evans 2006
Directions
Eric Radin 2001 and 2003:
The lift drawbridge leading to the harbour
only clears 38 feet (43 feet at low tide – the
bridge keeper will give you the current height
if you call on VHF), so if one is traveling
along the coast, (unless one wants to go
around Miscou Island, into Chaleur Bay and
back down to the inner entrance to Shippagan
Harbour (about 50 NM)), shelter can be
obtained only in Shippagan Gully. The
channel across the bar into the Gully begins
southwest of the outside entrance bell and is
buoyed. Once inside, the channel is buoyed
but silts up the closer to the bridge you get.
The Gully seems to offer no reasonable
anchorages outside the channel. The best bet for shelter is the boat basin on the south bank, just
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inside the entrance to the gully. The safest approach to its entrance is a southward turn from the
channel 2/3 of the way from mark TJ24 to TJ27, which, because of changes in buoyage over the
years are adjacent. Aim for the port side of the basins entrance. Keep to the port side in the basin
as well as its starboard side is shoal. We tied up to the wharf in 8 feet of water but it is possible
to anchor if there is not a lot of fishing activity. Just be sure the fishing boats can get past you.
Jim Evans 2006: According to Roger Doucette of Richibucto, the Gully and Boat Basin are
well dredged and no problem. However, he sails out of Richibucto and only has four foot draft,
so those of deeper draft and/or a nervous disposition may want to treat his advice accordingly.
CAUTION: Depth at TJ27 was reported to be less than charted in September 2006
Shippagan:
47°44.9’N, 64° 42.3’W (Marina entrance)
Chart 4913,4920
Jim Evans 2006
Directions
It is about nine miles into
Shippagan from the west
fairway buoy and, although
the channel is well marked
by buoys and ranges, the
ranges are not easy to see
and the channel does
demand attention.
Anchorage and
Berths
The marina is in the first
harbour you come to on the starboard side – the entrance is hard to see and narrow. (To the left
of the photo above – it’s not shown). Watch carefully for the staked channel through the
entrance. Depth in the entrance is about 6 feet (much less outside the stakes) and about 9 feet at
the docks.
There is anchorage in the Baie de Lamèque and Saint-Simon Inlet to the north and south of the
river respectively.
Facilities
The marina has the usual facilities. When I was there it was herring season and everything was
covered in gull poo, but it is reported that there has been a recent overhaul. There are restaurants
and a supermarket within less than 1 kilometre. The Pro Hardware store (on Main Street towards
the bridge) had some chandlery items including head repair kits etc.
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127
Caraquet
47° 48.25’N, 64° 52.4’W (Middle Caraquet)
Chart 4913, 4920
Jim Evans 2006
There are three Caraquets: Lower, Middle and just plain
Caraquet. Lower Caraquet is home to a shipworks handling large draggers, while Middle
Caraquet has a yacht marina. Caraquet town also has a harbour but it is entirely fishing boats.
Directions
The approaches to Middle Caraquet are simple via a well-marked and well-lit channel from the
Shippagan channel (turn to starboard at the first red after the Mo(A) fairway buoy) and it is an
excellent alternative to the convoluted approaches to Shippagan, particularly at night or in bad
weather. The only caution is that the final entrance to the harbour is narrow, at an angle and has a
sharp bend.
Anchorage and Berths
In settled weather there is good anchorage inside Caraquet Island – but beware of aquaculture
facilities in the bay.
Facilities
The marina is very clean and tidy with good docks, and has diesel, showers and a restaurant.
There is a take-out just up the hill and a gas station and convenience store close by.
Remarks
Although it is possible to dock in Caraquet itself, the stores are a long way from the harbour (I
gave up trying to find the supermarket) although there are restaurants close by.
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Paspébiac
48° 0.1’N, 65° 15.5’W
Chart 4024, 4921
Jim Evans 2006
Directions
Avoid the Pointe de Paspébiac if
approaching from the east. From the
Mo(A) fairway buoy it is a direct
approach to the harbour mouth, which is
wide and easily entered.
Anchorage and Berths
There is a tiny marina on the north side
of the harbour (not shown in the photo
above) but it appears to be a private
club and was not welcoming. Otherwise, tie to the high sheet-piled walls of the harbour. It’s
sheltered enough but dirt washes off the shore onto the boat in wet weather.
There is anchorage to the west of the harbour (to the east there are obstructions) which offers
shelter in winds from east through north to west.
Facilities
There is an interesting historic site (a former cod-fishing station) on shore, with a restaurant. A
nature path runs from the bottom of the hill. At the top of the hill is a dépanneur and pharmacy,
but it is a further mile or so into the town.
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Chandler
48° 20.6’N, 64° 40.2’W
Chart 4485, 4921
Jim Evans 2006
Directions
Entry is on the range between the ferry
pier (marked with a Fl 5s 14m) and Ile
Dupuis and its surrounding reefs (FlR 6s
13m 5M). The marina has been built
inside the old pier on the northwest of the
bay (shown as ruined on older charts).
Anchorage and Berths
The marina is new and has excellent
accommodations. It would be possible to
anchor to the west in Anse à l’Ilot in
northerly and westerly conditions,
although a lot of swell comes into the bay.
Facilities
The marina has about 40 berths, fuel, showers and laundry and is close to town for supplies. The
upper storey of the marina building has a lovely restaurant with a magnificent view across the
bay. The food is excellent and the restaurant has a delightful French ambiance.
The town has the usual stores but little charm.
Ste. Thérèse de Gaspé
48º24.84'N 064º23.54'W
David Hartman 2008
“This was a welcome shelter after 14 hours in strong sw winds. Very busy commercial fishing
harbour with two inter-linked basins. In my tour through the basins I saw 3.5m+. Ended up tying
on to a large long-liner.
130
Fuel could be got from a fuel truck which visits the harbour for the fishing boats.”
L’Anse à Beaufils
48° 28.33’N, 64° 18.30’W
Chart 4485, 4921
Jim Hawkins 2004, Jim Evans 2006
Directions
Approach is straightforward from
offshore but the entrance, though
deep, is very close to shore.
Anchorage and Berths
Jim Hawkins found room for no
more than ten boats, as the harbour
was full of the tour boats that work
the Perce area five miles north. Jim
Evans found everything closed in
mid-September but from the number
of floats on shore it looked as though
there might now be more than shown in the photo above.
Facilities
There is a restaurant in the red-roofed building on the north bank, a hardware store about half a
km north and a garage about 1 km beyond that. Presumably fuel is available at the dock, at least
for the tour boats, in season.
Percé
48° 31.2’N, 64° 12.6’W
Chart 4485
Jim Evans 2006 – just passing by
Anchorage and Berths
Although anchorage in the bay and dockage alongside may be possible the number of tour boats
taking trippers around the Rocher Percé and Ile Bonaventure would make this an un-restful place
to stop. There is not a lot of shelter, either.
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131
Gaspé
48° 49.69’N, 64° 28 46’W
Chart 4485, 4416
Jim Evans 2006
Directions
The harbour lies at the head of the long (15 miles or so) Baie de Gaspé in a bowl of high hills.
The photo above shows the town (centre) which lies mostly on the west bank of the Rivière
York. The marina is just across the bridge from the town centre on the east bank.
The passage to the north of the long sandspit shown at the bottom of the photo is quite narrow
but well marked by two lighted buoys. The approach to the marina should not be made direct as
there are shoals off Pointe de Lourdes in a direct line from these buoys.
Anchorage and Berths
Some larger yachts anchor off the marina. The Sandy Beach area to the east is a large oil tank
complex and much of the bay is obstructed by aquaculture operations. Otherwise, the marina
itself is large and very well equipped.
Facilities
The marina has all the usual services plus a hefty travel lift (many yachts winter here). It also has
the incomparable advantage of a VIA Rail station literally outside the gates – trains direct to
Montreal twice a week. The town is big enough to have two shopping malls – just up the hill
from the marina and across the bridge – plus many smaller stores and restaurants. This would
make an excellent place for re-provisioning, crew change or seasonal layup.
e Baie Chaleurs
132
This hand-tinted photo is of Murray Harbour in the early 1950s.
The boats have changed, but the harbour has changed surprisingly little
A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE GULF OF SAINT LAWRENCE EDITION 2 – JIM EVANS, EDITOR