MILAN DESIGN ITALY´S STYLE CAPITAL QUARTER 2 2010 24 HOURS IN MANILA MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB QUARTER 2 2010 CO N T E N T S DEPARTMEN MEN TS ON T HE WING O 03 MESSAGEE FROM 44 INSIDE CX Cathay Pacific’s engineering team oversees safety THE CLUB B 04 EXPLOREE HONG KONG ONG Feng shui ui woodlands, the best spas, and how to see ee stars 08 EXPLOREE THE WORLD RLD Irises bloom oom in Tokyo, Resorts World Sentosa in Singapore pore and history tours ours in Hanoi 14 FE AT URES 10 WHAT’S ON Dragon-boat races in Hong Kong, ART HK10 and Grand Slam tennis at the French Open 14 EXPERT ADVICE How to prepare to put your hand up and bid at auction 28 24 HOURS Experience all Manila has to offer in a heady, hectic tour 12 CHOICE Vases: our picks of the finest cells for those stems 20 PERSPECTIVE Mainland China’s golf courses are designed by the world’s best 36 TRAVEL If it’s sleek and Italian, it quite possibly was designed in Milan EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Grace Poon Mun Wong Ella Young Mandy Chau The Club is published by Cathay Pacific Loyalty Programmes Ltd. (CPLP) Cathay Pacific – The Marco Polo Club, PO Box 1024, Tsuen Wan Post Office, Hong Kong. Tel +852 2747 5500 Fax +852 2537 9900. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of CPLP Ltd. All rights reserved. Copyright 2010 by CPLP Ltd. Opinions in The Club are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CPLP Ltd. Manuscripts, photographs, drawings and other materials will not be returned unless they are accompanied by a self-addressed envelope and appropriate international postal coupons. The Club cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material. 2 THE CLUB 20 PUBLISHED BY ACP MAGAZINES ASIA LIMITED Unit 604-5, 6/F, 625 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel +852 3921 7000 Fax +852 3921 7099 Website www.acpmagazines.com.hk Email cathay@acpmagazines.com.hk Chief Executive Officer Julie Sherborn • Publishing Manager Alky Cheung • Editor in Chief William Fraser • Chief Sub Editor Andy Gilbert • Sub Editors Ellen Wong, Yam Yim-lan, Kathy Wang, John Cramer, Ling Ka-wai, Reggie Ho • Art Director Shaun Horrocks • Designers • Gigi Lee and Charles Leung • Photo Editors Elisa Fu, Ester Wensing • Production Manager Jimmy Tse • Assistant Production Manager Chris Wong ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES ASIAN IN-FLIGHT MEDIA LIMITED Managing Director Peter Jeffery +852 2850 4013 peterjeffery@asianimedia.com Hong Kong, Advertisement Director (Cathay Pacific) Teresa Ngai +852 3106 8133 teresa@asianimedia.com Printer: Paramount Printing Company Limited Photos. Nick Faldo: Warren Little – Getty Images. Cover photo: Walter Bibikow – JAI/Corbis 36 48 CX NEWS New route to Moscow, the Home Delivery Service expands and more news M E SSAG E FR O M T H E CLU B Positive news at last Katie Rowen, Manager The Marco Polo Club C athay Pacific’s 2009 annual results provided hope that the worst times might be behind us – although we must remain cautious – and was the first of several pieces of good news that I would like to share. We reported an attributable profit of HKD4,694 million versus a loss of HKD8,696 million the previous year. Excluding fuel hedging gains of HKD2,758 million, a oneoff item of HKD1,254 million resulting from the sale of HAECO shares, and the contribution from subsidiaries and associates, Cathay Pacific made an operating profit of HKD285 million from its core airline business compared with a loss of HKD1,440 million in 2008. In February, Cathay Pacific announced it had signed a framework agreement with Air China to establish a jointly owned cargo airline. The cargo joint venture, which is expected to begin operations in summer 2010, is conditional upon approvals from regulatory bodies and the independent shareholders of both Cathay Pacific and Air China. The joint venture will provide the two most important cargo-generating regions on the Mainland with efficient and highly competitive home-based carriers – Cathay Pacific in the Pearl River Delta and Air China Cargo in the Yangtze River Delta. There was more good news with the launch on 28 March of Cathay Pacific’s four-times-a-week service to Milan, providing a direct link between Hong Kong and Milan Malpensa. In July, Cathay Pacific aircraft will touch down at Moscow’s Domodedovo Airport as Russia’s capital is added to our network with a threetimes-a-week service. I am sure these new destinations will bring more convenience to all, whether for business or leisure. Cathay Pacific was honoured to receive the Total Caring Award 2009-10, which recognises local companies that demonstrate a “continual and sustainable total commitment in caring for the well-being of the community, the employees and the environment”. The Caring Company Scheme is organised by the Hong Kong Council of Social Service and Cathay Pacific has been awarded a Caring Company Logo every year since the scheme launched in 2003. As you fly with us, I hope you can feel happy in the knowledge that we take our social commitments seriously. THE CLUB 3 Have a sweet time at Sugar E XPLO R E HONG KONG Open house Shop, eat and sip Exquisite taste Combine a trip to the tailor with lunch and a wine tasting at Alfred Dunhill’s new store in the Prince’s Building, Central. The Home of Alfred Dunhill combines custom tailoring with Alfie’s, a clubby restaurant, bar and lounge operated by the KEE private members’ club. The store houses Berrys’ Fine Wine Reserve, operated by Berry Bros. & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine-and-spirits merchant. www.dunhill.com Eat like a local Download to find Hong Kong eats 4 THE CLUB Visitors who would like to try Hong Kong’s local cuisine – but are not sure where to start – can download a nifty free guide to their iPhone, iPad or iPod touch. The Hong Kong Local Delicacies Guide, produced by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, introduces four types of classic Hong Kong food – congee, rice noodles, noodles and rice – as well as restaurant contact details and street maps. Available from iTunes. www.discoverhongkong.com A new batch of outdoor bars has opened in time for the warmer weather. The Grand Hyatt Hong Kong’s new poolside The Waterfall Bar occupies a zen-like space on the 11th floor with views over Victoria Harbour, plenty of leafy tropical greenery and comfy rattan couches. The bar is stocked with a selection of fine Champagnes available by the glass. In Mong Kok, Langham Place Hotel’s The Backyard has 6,000 square feet of outdoor space filled with bean bags, lounging couches and chillout music. In Quarry Bay, EAST hotel’s bar Sugar has a stylish outdoor deck on its 32nd floor with DJ, tapas and cocktails from 5pm. www.grandhyatthongkong.hk http://hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com www.east-hongkong.com Smart talk The art of debating has been resurrected and popularised by Intelligence Squared, a debating forum that now has a branch in Hong Kong. Leading speakers are pitched against each other and the audience votes on the outcome. British sculptor Antony Gormley will be one of the speakers arguing for the motion that “You don’t need great skill to be a great artist”, in Hong Kong on 28 May. www.intelligencesquared.asia Antony Gormley speaks up Show time Hong Kong’s slick, three-storey pavilion at the Expo 2010 Shanghai China is designed to express the city’s modernity, creativity and connectivity. Designed by Hong Kong architects Chan Wai-ching and Sze Ki-shan, who won a government competition in early 2008, the theme of the 800-square-metre space is “Hong Kong – Potential Unlimited”. The contemporary design incorporates a ground-level exhibition hall linked to an open, transparent middle level by a pedestrian ramp. On the upper level is an indoor replica of Hong Kong’s Wetland Park. The space can accommodate 7,000 visitors a day. www.hkexpo2010.gov.hk Hong Kong gets connected in Shanghai Perfect pearl Photos. Anthony Gormley: Dan Kitwood – Getty Images. Food: Getty Images. HK Pavilion: ChinaFotoPress Dubbed the most extraordinary South Sea pearl in the world, the Paspaley Pearl will go on display at the new Paspaley flagship store at 1881 Heritage in Tsim Sha Tsui. The Seeing stars Gaze at Hong Kong’s night sky from the city’s new Astropark located at High Island Reservoir, near Sai Kung in the New Territories. The park is managed by the Hong Kong Space Museum and has three sections: a telescope area with 10 piers for amateur astronomers to mount their own telescopes; a naked-eye observation deck with specially designed stargazing benches; and an educational zone with a replica of a Ming Dynasty celestial globe, a mini planetarium and a gnomon, the instrument traditionally used in China to measure the length of the sun’s shadow. www.astropark.hk.space.museum perfectly round pink cultured pearl, 20.4mm in diameter, was harvested in Australia in 2002 and has been displayed around the world. Also on show is Paspaley’s Unique Pearl Collection and the Kuri Bay Collection, which was harvested in the 1950s and became the standard for valuing cultured pearls worldwide. www.paspaley.com Limited-edition Ribbon pearl strands with pavé-set diamonds THE CLUB 5 E XPLO R E The feng-shui woodlands stand out against the denuded hills in this 1960s photograph Kop Tong village near Lai Chi Wo has a layout typical of Hakka hamlets in the New Territories, with a clearing in front and feng shui woodlands behind The Lin Au feng shui woodlands shelter the village in the New Territories 6 THE CLUB Some of Hong Kong’s natural gems are its feng-shui woodlands, found around many villages in the New Territories. The woodlands, many of which are now under preservation orders, were originally an important resource for the villages, providing herbs, food, bamboo for building and protection from harsh winds and searing heat. According to feng-shui principles, the best place for a village is by water with a mountain backdrop, which is why many settlements are surrounded by mountains and protected by a crescent shape of woodland. Villagers believe these woodlands bring luck and govern the prosperity of village. The largest, best-preserved woods are in the northeast New Territories and around Sai Kung and Ma On Shan. The only surviving example on Hong Kong Island is the fourhectare Nam Fung Road feng-shui wood, which spreads along the south side of Mount Nicholson. Follow the path along Lady Clement’s Ride to enjoy the woods. Other woodlands that are worth exploring include She Shan Tsuen feng-shui woodlands, a small village on the downward slope of She Shan in Ma On Shan Country Park; Shing Mun feng-shui wood in Shing Mun Country Park, which originally sheltered the hamlet of Tai Wai before it was relocated to make way for Shing Mun Reservoir in 1929; and Lai Chi Wo feng-shui wood on the north-western side of Lai Chi Wo Village in Sha Tau Kok, set amidst the beautiful scenery of Plover Cove Country Park. www.hkherbarium.net Photos. Kop Tong: From Hong Kong Nature Landscape by Edward Stokes (The Photographic Heritage Foundation – Hong Kong University Press). Others: Courtesy of Hong Kong Herbarium Into the woods Just relax Hong Kong has some of the best spas in the world. Be smoothed, soothed and pampered in ultimate luxury. Balancing act Chuan Spa’s treatments are inspired by the philosophy of traditional Chinese medicine. The spa, on Level 41 of the Langham Place Hotel, combines principles of wu xing (the five elements), yin and yang and jing luo (the meridian system) for relaxation and balance. The spa’s own doctor of Chinese medicine is available for consultations. Treatments include the use of the spa’s health facilities such as the fitness studio, rooftop pool and Tri-bathing Ritual areas with Asian hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms and onsen showers. www.chuanspa.com.hk Chuan Spa Four Seasons Spa Bliss® Spa MiraSpa Light this way MiraSpa is the newest five-star spa on the scene and provides 18,000 square feet for pure pampering. Enjoy the spa’s pretreatment facilities including the 25-metre indoor infinity pool, the Aura Room where guests relax on loungers and experience moodaltering light therapy and the wet zone, which includes waterbeds and steam showers. There’s also a nail bar and a hair salon. www.themirahotel.com Sinfully good Asia’s first Bliss® Spa opened at the W hotel in West Kowloon. With fab views from its 72nd floor home, this hip spa has nine treatment rooms, a movie-while-youmanicure/pedicure nail station and luxe pre-treatment lounges with steam showers, saunas, steam rooms plus Bliss’ legendary chocolate brownie buffet. Popular treatments include the Ginger Rub and Triple Oxygen facial or try the locally inspired “Thai” the Knot that uses traditional Thai massage techniques. www.whotels.com/hongkong Fragrant view The Spa at Four Seasons offers airy, contemporary design with treatment rooms overlooking Victoria Harbour and Kowloon. The Vitality Lounge is perfect for relaxation with its Finnish sauna, crystal steam and rhassoul chamber and indoor vitality pool. www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/spa THE CLUB 7 E XPLO R E THE WORLD A touch of Hollywood in Singapore That’s entertainment Iris focus Singapore Singapore’s mega resort and entertainment complex Resorts World Sentosa has opened its doors. It’s made up of six hotels, a casino, Southeast Asia’s first Universal Studios theme park and a shopping and dining promenade, FestiveWalk. www.rwsentosa.com Tokyo Cherry blossoms are not the only flowers to charm visitors to Tokyo. During June, the Meiji Jingu Iris Garden is a blaze of colour when 80 species of vibrantly hued irises bloom. The garden, whose iris beds were planted about 1897, is part of the 71-hectare forested oasis in central Tokyo next to the Meiji Shrine. Emperor Meiji (1852-1912) commissioned the garden for his wife, Empress Shoken (18501914) and the two are said to have spent a lot of time there. www.meijijingu.or.jp Oriental influence Step this way for history in Hanoi History lesson Hanoi Take a trip around Hanoi led by Douglas Jardine, a professor of Vietnamese history at Hanoi University. Organised by Exotissimo to celebrate Hanoi’s 1,000th birthday this year, the half-day tours focus on a particular aspect of Hanoi’s history or culture such as the French colonial era or the Chinese-influenced architecture. www.exotissimo.com 8 THE CLUB London The Connaught Hotel in London gets a taste of Asia with the opening of the Aman Spa in the hotel’s new wing. Treatments and décor reflect the Aman resorts. www.the-connaught.co.uk/Aman.aspx Sit down and relax: the Aman Spa at the Connaught Hotel The irises are watered from a constantly flowing historic well Chic lit: Melbourne’s new Wheeler Centre Photos. Irises: JTB/ArgusPhoto. Hanoi: Courtesy of Exotissimo. Aman Spa: Damian Russell. Wheeler Centre: Andrew Paoli Writer’s block Melbourne Melbourne, a UNESCO City of Literature, is home to the newly opened Wheeler Centre for books, writing and ideas. Named after Tony and Maureen Wheeler, founders of Melbourne-based ed Lonely Planet Publications, who made a substantial donation to the he centre, the space is dedicated to the discussion and practice of writing and ideas. In addition to creating a home me for literary organisations including the Melbourne Writers’ Fest Festival and the Victorian Writers’ Centre, it will Ce host talks, lectures and debates. d www.wheelercentre.com The eyes have it New York ork Customeyes eyes on Manhattan’s Upper East ast Side transforms vintage eyewear wear into contemporary frames. Owner, designer, optician and collector ctor Nader Zadi, makes bespoke frames rames using antique eyewear components. omponents. www.rareframes.com ames.com Eye right: Eyes Bespoke Be spectacles spec THE CLUB 9 W HAT ’ S O N SUMMER EVENTS 23 May-6 June French Open Roland Garros Stadium, Paris Expect some classy tennis at the second grand slam of the year, played on clay courts at the Roland Garros Stadium. Last year’s winners Roger Federer and Svetlana Kuznetsova will defend their titles. www.rolandgarros.com 25-29 May RHS Chelsea Flower Show London The pick of the bunch of garden designers converge on Chelsea this month for the world’s most famous flower and garden show. www.rhs.org.uk for the first time – to see these hidden gems along Amsterdam’s three main canals. You get to see inside the houses as well on the way to the gardens. www.opengardendays.nl JUNE 12-14 June Winter Wine Weekend Mornington Peninsula, Australia Sip and slurp your way through a weekend of wine tastings among the rolling hills of the Mornington Peninsula, less than an hour from Melbourne and home to more than 200 boutique vineyards. www.mpva.com.au Dragon boats at Aberdeen 16 June Dragon Boat Festival (Tuen Ng Festival) Various venues, Hong Kong Long narrow boats with elaborately decorated dragon heads are manned by teams of about 20 paddlers who stroke to the sound of beating drums. www.discoverhongkong.com 18-20 June Open Garden Days Amsterdam Peek at the gardens of some 30 canal houses – many open to the public JULY 5-8 July Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/ Summer Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong Find out what we’ll be wearing this time next year at Asia’s largest fashion fair, showing everything from mass market to high end. More than 1,100 exhibitors are expected. http://hkfashionweekss hktdc.com Photos. James Bond Island I: Courtesy of White Cube. Chelsea: Impact/ArgusPhoto. Dragon boats: TPG Images. Rick Kulacz: Quinn Rooney–Getty Images MAY Daisies and geraniums at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show James Bond Island I by Andreas Gursky on show at ART HK10 16-18 July Honda Indy Toronto Exhibition Place, Toronto Top international drivers roll into the city for a series of races, including the Firestone Indy Lights, the SPEED World Challenge, the SCCA Pro Racing Trans-Am Series and the Canadian Touring Car Championship. www.hondaindytoronto.com Title holder Rick Kulacz AUGUST 5-8 August Asian Tour: Worldwide Holdings Selangor Masters Seri Selangor Golf Club, Kuala Lumpur Last year’s winner Rick Kulacz from Australia will defend his title. www.asiantour.com SUM M E R FE STI VAL S 27-30 May ART HK10 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong The Hong Kong International Art Fair is back with more exhibitors than ever. This year more than 150 galleries from 29 countries will take part. www.hongkongartfair.com 1-23 June: Holland Festival various locations, Amsterdam www.hollandfestival.nl 24 June-4 July: Greenwich+Docklands International Festival London www.festival.org 25 June-4 July: TD Vancouver International Jazz Festival Vancouver www.coastaljazz.ca 7-25 July: Lincoln Centre Festival New York www.lincolncenter.org 16 July-22 August: Puccini Festival Great Open Air Theatre G. Puccini, Torre del Lago Puccini, Tuscany www.puccinifestival.it 13-29 August: The New York International Fringe Festival New York, www.fringenyc.org THE CLUB 11 CH O I CE VASE SQUAD With or without the flowers, vases add a sculptural element to décor. Heritage brands update while retaining trademark craftsmanship and others recruit well-known designers Waterford Lismore Essence Art of Venice Acqua 9 The crisp facets make Irish Waterford crystal immediately identifiable and a rakish angle updates Lismore, a pattern started in 1952. www.waterford.com Venice has long been famous for the glass produced on the island of Murano. This blownglass vase, signed by the maker, has been deeply etched with a ripple effect called battuto. www.artofvenice.com Pritzker Prize-winning architect Zaha Hadid morphs her trademark organic curves into this towering Crevasse design for Italian brand Alessi. www.alessi.com 12 THE CLUB Baccarat Rois de la Forêt Dutch designer-of-the-moment Marcel Wanders has developed a new range for Baccarat. The Kings of the Forest vases are mounted on metal or marble bases and are part of the United Crystal Woods collection. www.baccarat.com Photos. Kosta Boda: Micke Persson. Alessi: Robert Bianchi – Courtesy of Alessi Alessi Crevasse Philippe Starck Holly All It’s a vase, it’s a seat, it’s a sculpture. Holly All by Philippe Starck stands two metres tall and you also can sit on it. The only problem will be finding flowers long enough. www.serralunga.com Lalique Révélation Bacchantes To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of French art-glass master René Lalique, the 1927 Révélation Bacchantes vase is updated using the costly, time consuming and complex lostwax technique. www.cristallalique.fr Kosta Boda Grass Bud Eva Solo Solitaire Swedish designer Anna Ehrner uses a glass-on-glass technique to add depth to the blade of grass. Also in orange and black to show the life cycle of the grass. www.kostaboda.com Danish design company Eva Solo pares this specimen vase back to basics to highlight a single perfect flower. Also available in red and black. www.evasolo.com THE CLUB 13 Early Ming vase HKD20,820,000 , , Christie’s Qing celadon green jade vase HKD2,660,000 Sotheby’s Qianl Qianlong cinnabar lacquer alms bowl lacqu HKD2,660,000 HKD Sotheby’s Sothe eby’s Qianlong Imperial yellow jade bowl HKD12,980,000 Sotheby’s 14 THE CLUB E XPE R T ADV I CE That’s your lot BY TAR A JENK INS AND K AR EN PI T TAR Making your first foray into the auction world? Don’t worry, experts are on hand to help you at a time when Asian bidders are waving their paddles Qianlong moulded octagonal gourd brushpot HKD1,460,000 t was a rare and beautiful yellow gourd vase, a piece of Qianlong Imperial ware from the Qing Dynasty, that seduced Kelly Cheng from Hong Kong, and became her first purchase at auction. Today, an avid collector of antique Chinese ceramics, Cheng clearly remembers her mixture of emotions at that first auction. “When I placed the winning bid, I felt as if I had won the lottery,” she says. “I’ve been collecting Chinese ceramics for over six years and I have never seen a piece like this auctioned anywhere else in the world. I went to the preview a few times and researched the pricing, but I was still very nervous before the bidding started. I had set a price in my head, but I was worried I would get overexcited and bid and bid.” Auctions can be daunting to the uninitiated. Exorbitant prices, uncertainty about how and when to bid, the involved process of even getting in the door, are some of the misperceptions that deter potential buyers from taking that first step. But buying at auction is much easier than you might think, as more and more people across Asia, like Cheng, are discovering. Christie’s, Sotheby’s and Bonhams – the three big international auction houses – report a substantial increase in the number of auction bidders, particularly those from China. “In Hong Kong the percentage of business from Chinese Sotheby’s THE CLUB 15 E XPE R T ADV I CE Contemporary Asian art is just part of the massive Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction preview (right) This Patek Philippe watch set a world record of HKD4,460,000 buyers was once insignificant, to a current spectacular 50 percent or more,” says Kevin Ching, Chief Executive of Sotheby’s Asia. “The impact of Chinese collectors is felt not just in our biannual Hong Kong sales series, but increasingly in our sales rooms around the world, and in a variety of categories.” There seems little doubt that Asia is leading the way in auction sales. “We definitely see a growth in the Chinese market, with the most relevant category being Chinese art,” agrees Carson Chan, Managing Director of Bonhams Hong Kong. “But there are also many new categories the Chinese market is interested in, such as fine wines, jewellery, watches, classic cars, and so on.” So how does one become a buyer at auction? Chan says many people think they can only attend an auction if they 16 THE CLUB have been invited, though most are open to the public. “We do not require you to commit to a purchase before admission, so visiting a preview or auction is actually a great source of information, especially for people who are interested in Chinese arts, paintings, jewellery design, watches and fine wines.” Buyers range from amateur collectors to museum owners, and goods on sale also cover the whole spectrum. Of course, there is a protocol to follow, but it’s fairly straightforward. A buyer simply needs to pre-register, especially if they are a new bidder, as many of the auction houses like to run background checks. On the day of the auction the buyer needs to bring ID and proof of address before being assigned a numbered paddle. Prior to the auction, it’s also helpful to obtain a copy of the auction catalogue, which can be viewed online, and condition reports for the pieces you are interested in. Photos. Previous page. Ming vase: Christie's Imaging Ltd. Others: Courtesty of Sotheby's. at Christie’s Photos. Watch: Christie's Imaging Ltd. Auction previews: Courtesty of Sotheby's. Zhang Xiaogang: Mike Clarke – AFP/Getty Images Works by Chinese artist Zhang Xiaogang were on sale at Sotheby’s April auctions in Hong Kong (above) Buy the best you can afford advises Kevin Ching, Chief Executive of Sotheby’s Asia (right) If it all seems too complex then experts – either employed by the auction house itself or independent – will guide you through the process step by step. Amelia Johnson, who owns a contemporary art gallery in Hong Kong’s Central district, often works on behalf of her clients to secure special artworks at auction. “If the piece a client is interested in is by an artist I do not represent or work with, I would thoroughly research the artist’s work, checking market values and auction history globally, as well as price, quality and quantity of works available on the market, so we can agree a ceiling price,” she says. “During the actual auction I often bid on behalf of the client, who is either unable or unwilling to attend personally, although they may be following the progress online and/ or on the phone.” According to Sotheby’s, about 20 percent of participants bid by phone, and there is a special process to do this: a buyer must complete an absentee form and a representative from the saleroom will help relay the bids to the auctioneer. Tsang Chi-fan, Senior Specialist, Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art, Christie’s Asia, says telephone bids are particularly popular with Asian buyers. “They feel more comfortable “THE IMPACT OF CHINESE COLLECTORS ORS IS FELT IN OUR SALES ROOMS AROUND THE WORLD” hearing increments in their own languages, whether it be Mandarin, Cantonese or Bahasa,” Tsang says. But as there are a limited number of telephone lines, buyers must make an arrangement for this service 24 hours before the sale, with advance warning for languages not native to the auction location. A word of warning from the experts: make sure phone reception is good, as buyer’s phones have been known to go dead in the middle of a bidding war. Christie’s International Co-Head of Watches, Tim Bourne, explains that there are other ways to place a bid. “It’s possible to place a written bid, but watch collectors and lovers tend to be IT savvy and often consult our e-catalogues, use online condition reports and register to bid with Christie’s LIVETM, our online bidding room,” he says. Online bidding is definitely a growth area: at Christie’s last year, 30 percent of all bids and 14 percent of all winning bids were made online. Winning bidders participating online in 2009 increased by 40 percent on the previous year. If you feel confident enough to turn up on the day and go it alone at a sale, it’s reassuring to know that each of the auction houses has specialists on hand to give adv advice. Mei Giam, Jewellery Specialist Specia at Christie’s Asia, explains: “I would encourage anyone interested in buying a pi piece of jewellery to visit a C Christie’s pre-auction This work by early Chinese modernist Lin Fengmian sold for HKD5,024,000 by Bonhams viewing to examine and learn more about the pieces on offer. Here you can try on the jewels and consult with our specialists. We have 35 jewellery experts, all of whom have a degree in gemology. Our specialists are also available at all times to help explain any particular jewel – its age, rarity, provenance and price. They can even tell you the level of interest in a particular piece.” Christie’s Senior Specialist in Asian Contemporary Art, Ingrid Dudek, agrees it is important to make every effort to see the sales in person. “Even if you are still in an educational mode [learning about the market], auctions are not only exciting but are a great venue to get a broad view of a market, a place to train your eye and develop your own personal taste and standards of value.” There is an argument, however, that a piece of art, jewellery, Christie’s International Director of Asian Contemporary Art Eric Chang with a painting by Zeng Fanzhi (above) Sold! Christie’s Eric Chang has the winning phone bid (right) Photos. Zeng Fanzhi: Philippe Lopez–AFP–Getty Images. Lin Fengmian: Courtesty of Baonhams. E XPE R T ADV I CE “DON’T GET DRAWN INTO A BIDDING WAR WHICH GOES WAY BEYOND THE NORMAL VALUES” Photo. Eric Chang bidding: Christie's Imaging Ltd. watch or antique is ultimately worth whatever someone is prepared to pay for it. “The work of most artists has little or no resale value unless and until that artist has established a track record at auction,” says avid collector Howard Bilton of the Sovereign Art Foundation. “In a way, the auction is the perfect market place because if a painting goes for a lot more than expected, then it is generally thought this establishes a new value for that particular artist, so the art work is immediately worth exactly what you have just paid for it. So it could be said it isn’t possible to overpay at an auction except for the dealing costs, which are substantial at around 30 percent (20 percent paid by the buyer and 10 percent by the seller).” Bilton is quick to point out however, that this argument – often made by the auction houses – does not always hold true. “Don’t get drawn into a bidding war which goes way beyond the normal values if a similar piece is available from the gallery at a normal price. You may be able to commission the artist to make you a similar piece or buy a similar piece another day from another auction. Unless the work is quite outstanding and unlike anything you think will come up again, it is better not to chase it too hard at auction.” All experts agree on the importance of setting a price in your mind before entering the fray. Many recommend sitting at the front of the room and trying to catch the auctioneer’s eye – especially if the auction has a large attendance. Kelly Cheng would never dream of buying one of her precious Chinese ceramics anywhere but at auction. “The big auction houses ascertain the provenance and authentication of every piece, and they have to reveal its true condition. It’s totally transparent and, because the pieces are previewed all around the world, they have been exposed to many different experts.” Ultimately, the most important thing is to look for something at auction that speaks to you and that you will always value. “Any serious collector should first and foremost look for something that they love and will enjoy possessing,” says Kevin Ching, “and always buy the best they can afford.” THE CLUB 19 Club class BY AL C A M PB ELL Golfers are spoiled for choice in Mainland China thanks to spectacular courses developed by the game’s top designers PE R S PEC T I V E Mainland China lends itself to beautiful golf courses Photo. Tom Breazeale M ainland China is easily the hottest golf-design market in the world and undoubtedly will be for years to come. Starting from a base of about 20 clubs two decades ago, the number has grown to more than 400 and counting, representing some of the most innovative and dramatic layouts in the world. Star players Jack Nicklaus, Nick Faldo, Peter Thomson, Greg Norman, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player and Ian Woosnam – major winners all – are among the many famous golfers designing courses in Mainland China. But so too are celebrated designers Robert Trent Jones II and Pete Dye, as well as Nelson & Haworth, Schmidt-Curley, Roger Packard, Pacific Coast Design and JMP Golf Design Group, who have multiple projects being designed in the country. Golf in Mainland China dates back to the late 1800s when the first courses were built in Shanghai and later in Beijing and Nanjing. The game wasn’t played after 1949 – the site of the old Hung Jao Golf Club is today the home of the Shanghai Zoo – but the the seeds for its resurgence were planted in 1984 when Arnold Palmer designed the first modern course on the Mainland at Chung Shan Hot Spring Golf Club near Zhuhai. With 2,000 workers at his disposal, Palmer created a magnificent hand-built, tree-lined course that set the bar for all that would follow. While the southern province was the catalyst and now has about 75 layouts, the demand for new clubs has spread across the country and today Mainland China’s golf hotbeds are Shanghai, Beijing, Kunming and, perhaps the biggest growth centre, Hainan. The southern island boasts about 25 courses with numerous others under construction, most notably the new Mission Hills project outside Haikou which will feature 10 courses upon its completion. THE CLUB 21 Tom Weiskopf is another champion with designs on Hainan: the 1973 British Open winner recently opened the first 18 holes of his initial Mainland China design, the 36-hole The Dunes at Shenzhou West. “I am just experiencing a small amount of what is happening within China and specifically what is happening on Hainan Island,” says the 67-year-old American. “Someone who does not personally visit China and see firsthand how the game of golf is growing there is going to have a difficult time comprehending what its potential could be over the next 10 years. To me, it’s truly unbelievable and I am just glad to be a small contributor.” Mark Hollinger, an old China hand, has created numerous layouts throughout the country with his company JMP, most notably Dongguan’s Long Island Golf and Country Club and Beijing Qinghe Bay Golf and Country Club. Among his newest creations is Grand Hill Golf Course near Chengdu. The Californian says he loves the detailed landscapes that can be created on golf courses in Mainland China. “This is the signature feature of most of my golf courses – and what we spend an enormous amount of time working on – the landscaping themes for our projects. We can [get] 20 times the detailed landscaping in China for the same amount that we can work with elsewhere in the world. It can really pay off with special features and visually dramatic impacts to the overall golf-hole design.” British great Nick Faldo is increasingly making a name for himself as a designer following a standout career that saw the former world number one capture six major titles. With 21 courses to his credit to date, including seven in Asia, the Englishman emphasises strategy and “memorability” in his designs. He also likes to keep his layouts “clean” without residential developments infringing on the design. “I understand real estate plays an important part in many projects, but there are ways to design property on a golf course so that the result 22 THE CLUB Long Island Golf and Country Club in Dongguan (above), created by Mark Hollinger The Dunes Golf Course (right), next to the sea in Hainan, was designed by Tom Weiskopf Photos. Long Island and The Dunes: Tom Breazeale. Tom Weiskopf: Stuart Franklin – Getty Images PE R S PEC T I V E Grand Hill Golf Course (above, right) at Jintang, near Chengdu, was designed by Mark Hollinger’s company Tom Weiskopf (right) is happy to be working in Mainland China is not just ‘corridor golf’,” says Faldo, whose Mainland China layouts include his signature course at Mission Hills in Shenzhen, Beijing Honghua International Golf Club and one in Kunming. “If we can set the housing to one side or in the middle or wherever … at least golfers can have a little freedom.” With so many Chinese developers looking to build the toughest and longest layouts to host pro championships, Faldo points out such courses also have to be playable the other 51 weeks a year for members. “So we have to balance that. The trick is to place bunkers where they will annoy good players while giving options for not-so-good players. We can do that with tees THE CLUB 23 PE R S PEC T I V E of different lengths, obviously, but we also must consider the ‘power factor’. Some players can hit the ball miles and turn what you might think a good hole into a laughing stock.” In Mainland China, where a weekday game of golf can be enjoyed for RMB500 (about HKD570) and double or more on weekends, caddie included, the sport is ranked as the second-favourite activity of the country’s growing group of millionaires, just behind travel, according to the Hurun 2009 Wealth Report. The luxury business magazine’s report of Mainland China’s 51,000 “super rich”, those with assets of more than RMB100 million, claims more than 40 percent of respondents played golf and boasted an average handicap of 24.1. Despite 24 THE CLUB Part of the 17th hole of Nick Faldo’s course at Mission Hills, Shenzhen a central government ban on new course construction that has been in effect since 2002, the wealthy elite of Beijing were ranked the most enthusiastic swingers and it was the only city where golf surpassed travel in terms of popularity. With Mainland China’s golf clubs so far largely catering to the wealthy elite – there are only a handful of public courses in the country – Greg Norman, “The Great White Shark”, says he sees no reason why new course development in Mainland China shouldn’t be a model of sustainability for the world. The Australian, who is designing the Kaikou Golf Club course at Xiamen, as well as the stunning The Dunes layout in Danang, Vietnam, claims Mainland China has nearly three million golfers and Photos. Nick Faldo & Misson Hills: Stuart Franklin – Getty Images. Nick Faldo (below) prefers space between his courses and property development PE R S PEC T I V E “THE OLYMPICS WILL SERVE AS A CATALYST FOR NEW COURSES” 26 THE CLUB Greg Norman believes the number of golfers in Mainland China could double in five years HIT THE GREENS Beijing Honghua International Golf Club, Beijing www.h-cgolf.com Beijing Qinghe Bay Golf Country Club, Beijing www.qinghebay.com Grand Hill Golf Course, Jintang, near Chengdu www.grand-hill.com/en/ Chung Shan Hot Spring Golf Club, Zhuhai www.cshsgc.com.cn The Dunes, Shenzhou West, Hainan www.shenzhoupeninsula.com Kaikou Golf Club, Xiamen www.kkgolf.com Kau Sai Chau, Sai Kung, Hong Kong www.kscgolf.org.hk Long Island Golf and Country Club, Dongguan www.longislandgolfclub.com Mission Hills, Shenzhen & Hainan www.missionhillschina.com Greg Norman: Martin Hunter – Getty Images the figure could “easily more than double in the next five years”. Without a doubt, Norman says, golf’s reinstatement into the Olympics for the Rio de Janeiro 2016 Games in Brazil “will help propel the sport to the next level”. “China is blessed with a diverse landscape that will support spectacular and challenging golf courses,” says Norman, the former world number one who has almost 50 golf projects in various stages of development around the world. “The Olympics will enhance the competitive landscape of global golf and bring both new fans and new players to the sport. There is no doubt that the road to Rio means expansion of golf courses and associated real-estate development across Asia. The Olympics will serve as a catalyst for the development of new courses, especially in China where its Olympic sports programmes have a history of quickly developing world-class athletes in the Olympic arena.” While Mainland China may indeed be the saviour for designers who have seen their commissions dry up in Western economies, Gary Player and others advise that greater scrutiny of the golf-design sector is needed to ensure that reputable and qualified people are working on projects. “Golf could be a big thing [for Mainland China],” says the South African great, a winner of nine majors and designer of the first 36 holes at Hong Kong’s Kau Sai Chau public course. “Golf courses create demand in manufacturing, exportation and tourism. All these create employment, but it’s so easy to go the wrong way.” 24 H O U R S 24 Manila HOURS 10am METRO MANILA fascinates with contrasts: the old and new, the wealthy next to the poor, the sacred amid the profane. About 11 million people live in the urban sprawl that is the Philippines’ capital, an adventure in diversity and layers of cultures. Residents love Manila for being a mega city full of possibilities. The heart of the business district in Makati, just a half-hour drive from the airport with regular traffic, is the perfect perch from which 28 THE CLUB to explore Manila, a metropolis of many tales to tell. Most major international company headquarters are in Makati, as are a number of retail, dining and cultural offerings. Check into a suite at a fivestar property such as the Makati Shangri-La hotel or the Peninsula Manila, oases in the middle of all the Metro Manila action. Ascott Makati luxury serviced apartment tower is right on top of the Glorietta 4 development. An alternative, at only four storeys, is the boutique Hotel Céleste. BY A L E X A N D R A A . SEN O AND T R ICCIE BAQUIR AN 10:30am VISIT THE Ayala Museum, whose core art holdings and financing come from one of the country’s biggest conglomerates. Take a Philippine history lesson through dioramas. The museum also mounts exhibits of art and antiquities. Not to be missed: the fantastic and dazzling special gallery dedicated to pre-Hispanic gold objects and the traditions behind them. The museum also regularly mounts shows of contemporary Philippine Manila has it all: museums and mega malls, high-rise alongside history, bustle and boutiques. So grab a drink, enjoy the sunset and practise your karaoke Local colour: sunset over Manila Bay 24 H O U R S Boutique charm at Hotel Céleste art with works from some distinguished private collections. 11:30am POWER shop at Greenbelt mall. Although it houses global brands from Hermés to high-street fashions, it also has an array of shops by Filipino names. Local designers are known worldwide for their skill, craftsmanship and creativity. At Greenbelt 5, check out party dresses and gowns by glamour master Jun Escario, whose staff can alter and fit their outfits off the rack. Also of note are Amina Aranaz handbags as well as exquisite statement contemporary jewellery by Arnel Papa. Then, cross over to the Peninsula shopping arcade for Jewelmer, which is a prime purveyor of quail-eggsized South Sea pearls taken from the waters of the Philippines. 30 THE CLUB Noon NAVIGATING the streets and sights of Manila is by no means an easy task. Arrange to hire a car and driver from the hotel and a good tour guide. One of the best is the flamboyant artist and amateur historian Carlos Celdran, who organises and performs for regular group tours. He also conducts private, bespoke tours upon request. Drive to the war-ravaged Spanish-era settlement close to the old walled city, as Celdran or someone like him explains the present by visiting the past. One of Celdran’s most popular standard spiels he calls “Living La Vida Imelda”, a route inspired by Imelda Marcos and an entertaining romp through the former first lady’s colourful life and the monumental 1970s and 1980s architecture that she sponsored. At the height of her power, she underwrote the construction of grand and visually ambitious buildings such as the Manila Film Old gold: pre-Hispanic ear ornament from Ayala Museum Center and the Cultural Center of the Philippines, which has a great gift shop with unique crafts. PA R T N E R O F F E R Archway at Casa Manila Intramuros Photos. Previous page: Roe Empleo. Intramuros: Alamy–ArgusPhoto. Gold: Neil Oshima. 2pm A LATE LUNCH of “new” Philippine cuisine, catered by chef Roland Laudico, can be served by special arrangement at one of the sumptuous rooms of the Coconut Palace. The compound, intended to demonstrate the beauty and versatility of the coconut tree as a construction material, is one of Imelda’s legacies. She had it built for the 1981 visit of Pope John Paul II, but it was so ostentatious that he politely refused to stay in it. The palace is now available for hire. Feast on re-imagined classics, lighter than traditional fare, dramatically presented, such as heart-of-palm spring rolls, tuna with pickled shrimp and the famous adobo rice. And for dessert, indulge in Laudico’s version of halohalo, shaved ice topped with fruit and water buffalo milk ice cream. As a key trade port in the region for centuries, the Philippines’ culture and food emerged from the mingling of Chinese, Indian, Malay and Spanish traditions. 3:30pm Enjoy special rates and other privileges at The Peninsula Manila From 16 May to 15 August 2010, stay at The Peninsula Manila, and you’ll enjoy Special Guest Room Rates from PHP8,500 per night! Plus, you’ll receive a complimentary room upgrade to the next room category, as well as daily breakfast for up to two persons. Built in 1976, the hotel stands as an icon and is at the epicentre of high finance, lifestyle and entertainment in the heart of the central business district, on the corner of Ayala and Makati Avenues. For reservations, please contact The Peninsula Manila Room Reservations Department directly and quote promotion code “Marco Polo Club Member Summer Promo” at the time of booking. Telephone: +63 2 812 3456 or +63 2 887 2888 Fax +63 2 810 4346 Email: reservationpmn@peninsula.com AT THE METROPOLITAN Museum of Manila, in the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex, see treasures from bygone eras: THE CLUB 31 24 H O U R S Bags of style: Amina Aranaz designs have international appeal from 8th-century pottery to 19th-century paintings by Filipino realist masters such as Felix Resurreccion Hildalgo, whose work was once feted in Europe. Some of the Philippines’ most prized possessions are in the building, which also houses a regular schedule of exhibits. much as they once were. (Chinese and Filipinos had to live outside the walls.) What still exists makes it easy to picture the area in its glory days in the 18th century. The settlement was made wealthy from the riches of the ManilaAcapulco galleon trade, one of the most profitable sea routes. 4:15pm 6pm WALK BACK in time strolling around Intramuros, the colonial Spanish walled city and its ancient Catholic churches, which continue to function. Though the Manila Cathedral traces its origins to 1571, it has been rebuilt and restored several times following earthquakes and the bombs of World War II, and the dome dates from the 1750s. The cathedral is impressive as a historical site and national landmark. The cobblestone streets and the houses of Spanish and part-Spanish mestizos (mixed-race people) remain 32 THE CLUB MANILA BAY’S sunsets are legendary. In 1898, the United States became the country’s new colonial master after the American navy defeated the Spanish in an epic sea battle here. On a calmer note, book a yacht from RealShip to sail the bay and to enjoy the views from the deck, a refreshing green mango juice drink in hand. Float past Roxas Boulevard and its fascinating skyline, a curious mix of Art Deco buildings and 1980s blocks, lit up to welcome the early evening. 7pm HEAD TO the Edsa Shangri-La Manila hotel and its award-winning CHI, the Spa for a relaxing hilot session, a traditional massage technique based on Philippine folk medicine. Therapists use ingredients including virgin coconut oil for its trademark treatments. After all the walking, also recommended is dagdagay, a foot massage using bamboo sticks inspired by rituals of the Philippine mountain tribes. Sweeping statement: make an entrance at the Makati Shangri-La PA R T N E R O F F E R 10:30pm Photos. Bags: Andy Maluche – OnAsia 9pm REFRESHED, dodge Manila’s notorious traffic and fly via Canadian Helicopters to Tagaytay, 55km south. Along the way, marvel at the thrilling vista of Manila by night. In Tagaytay, dine at Antonio’s, one of the region’s top 20 restaurants according to the Miele Guide. Famous for using fresh and organic ingredients, Antonio’s offers an experience in fine dining and impeccable service. ROCKAOKE time. Fly back to the city, to Bonifacio High Street, to start an evening where the nightlife is king. Rockaoke is karaoke with a live band, available at venues such as Mag:net Café. The tone-challenged can be reassured that your participation isn’t necessarily required. As a music-loving city, a good number of amateur singers will probably be in attendance, so just being in the audience can be fun. Mag:net also holds various live-music performances by a roster of hip local bands that play the night away. Midnight WATCH, be watched and party at The Establishment, a fashionable bar and restaurant complex at The Fort Strip in Taguig. Have one of its original cocktail drinks or an ice-cold San Miguel beer, as Manila’s social set sashay by. The venue has quickly become the “it” spot thanks to its clientele, food and ambiance. Enjoy 20% off with Hertz in the Philippines From 16 May to 15 August 2010, members of The Marco Polo Club who rent a car with Hertz in the Philippines will receive a 20% discount on Affordable Rates – on top of the regular 250 Asia Miles you will earn for every qualifying rental. To enjoy this offer, simply make your reservation at least 48 hours prior to your departure and quote PC# 143684 with CDP# 1039946 (Green), 44130 (Silver), 226006 (Gold) or 226817 (Diamond) at the time of reservation. Then present your Marco Polo Club membership card at the rental counter. Telephone: +852 2525 2838 Email: reshertz@hertz-gsa.com.hk Website: www.hertz.com Terms and conditions 1. This offer is valid for self-drive rentals on Affordable Rates at participating locations in the Philippines. 2. This offer is subject to a minimum two-day rental. 3. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any CDP discount. 4. Standard Hertz rental terms and conditions apply. THE CLUB 33 24 H O U R S 1:30am onwards SHOP Amina Aranaz Greenbelt 5, Makati +632 757 0301 http://aminava82.multiply.com Arnel Papa Greenbelt 5, Makati +632 729 0181 Greenbelt 5 +632 729 8684 www.ayalamalls.com.ph Greenhills Shopping Centre +632 721 0572 www.greenhills.com.ph Jewelmer (The Peninsula) +632 844 0347 www.jewelmer.com Jun Escario +632 729 9070 www.junescario.com SM Megamall +632 633 5042 www.sm-megamall.com EAT & DRINK Antonio’s Barangay Neogan, Tagaytay +63 917 899 2866 Apartment 1B Ground Level, One Lafayette Square, 132 L.P. Leviste Street, Makati City Chef Laudico Bistro Filipino +632 856 0634 www.cheflaudico.com.ph Encore +632 819 5481/5 www.encoresuperclub.com 34 THE CLUB Harbour View +632 524 1532 www.harborview-manila.com Kamayan +632 892 8897 www.kamayan.com.ph Mag:net Café High Street +632 856 3400 www.magnethighstreet.com Sala Bistro +632 729 4888 www.salabistro.com The Establishment The Fort Entertainment Centre, +632 844 6364 VISIT Ayala Museum +632 757 7117 www.ayalamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Manila +632 521 1517 www.metmuseum.ph Canadian Helicopters International Royal Star Aviation Hangar, Andrews Avenue, Manila Domestic Airport, Pasay City +632 851 6521 Carlos Celdran Tours +63 920 909 2021 www.carlosceldran.com Cultural Center of the Philippines +632 832 1125 www.culturalcenter.gov.ph Coconut Palace Roxas Boulevard, Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex, Manila +632 832 0223 CHI Spa, Edsa Shangri-La +632 633 8888 www.shangri-la.com Manila Cathedral +632 527 1796 www.manilacathedral.org Manila Film Center +632 832 1125 www.culturalcenter.gov.ph RealShip +632 832 5424 www.realshipcorp.com Resorts World Manila +632 836 6333 www.rwmanila.com STAY A MUST SEE is the recently opened Resorts World Manila casino, where locals really can play hard. The casino has Manila all abuzz about who has been winning and losing. Gaming is a standard, aspirational and well-accepted part of leisure in the Philippines. This shiny, new casino has been drawing the crowds with its flash and cash, spectacular entertainment numbers on the floors as well as the chance to win at the tables and slot machines. Back at Greenbelt mall, recuperate with a visit to the urbane Sala Bistro. The restaurant does a very civilised and restorative breakfast and the city’s most perfectly made lattes. It is the ideal setting at which to contemplate the last day and living la vida Manila. Ascott Makati +632 729 8888 www.the-ascott.com Hotel Céleste +63 2 887 8080 www.hotelceleste.ph Makati Shangri-La +632 813 8888 www.shangri-la.com The Peninsula Manila +632 887 2888 www.peninsula.com MORE INFO www.wowphilippines.com.ph Greenbelt is one of the many malls in Manila PA R T N E R O F F E R Photos. Greenbelt: Andy Maluche – OnAsia Mitzi Tronqued Cathay Pacific Customer Services Manager, Philippines When in Manila, eating is a must to experience the authentic local flavour. Some of the Filipino dishes, delicacies and desserts include the popular lechon (roasted pig served with liver sauce), adobo and pork or beef sinigang (soup soured by tamarind, calamansi and tomatoes) with local vegetables and halo-halo dessert – Tagalog for “mix-mix”. All these may be sampled at Kamayan in Makati City. Freshly caught prawns, crustaceans, fish from the Philippine Sea and a wide array of delectable Filipino food, can be savoured at Harbor View Restaurant, near the famous Luneta Park. For a restaurant that gives you the feeling of being served in a cosy condominium unit (because it is!), try Apartment 1B in Makati City, and their array of gourmet comfort food. My special favourite is fillets of tilapia fish with its own special sauce. And you just have to try the entire list of desserts, starting with frozen pie topped with vanilla ice cream, choco syrup and nuts! Apart from the infamous “jeepney” souvenir, good buys are Philippine pearls from Greenhills Shopping Center, capiz (mother-of-pearl) and coral picture frames and jewellery cases, specially woven hand and shoulder bags. SM Makati (for those living in this premier city’s hotels) or SM Mega Mall near the Ortigas Business District give a wide selection of reasonably priced, fashionable and trendy clothes and home wares. Various local designer boutiques and ready-to-wear clothes can be found here at bargain prices. For jewellery at more than reasonable prices, Greenhills Shopping Center is the place to go. It boasts a wide assortment of pearls (South Sea, water, rice), semi-precious stones, gold and silver jewellery locally handcrafted and from Luzon in the north and Mindanao in the south. For a taste of Manila nightlife go to Encore at The Fort Entertainment Centre, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, an after- party meeting point that on a Friday and Saturday is packed with people who love the party life. On Monday nights, it is transformed into a ballroom-dancing venue. If you have the time, make the trip to Corregidor, 40 minutes by ferry from Roxas Boulevard. In World War II, this island was one of the last to surrender to the Japanese forces which occupied the Philippines from 1942-45. Day trips and tours can be arranged through hotel concierges. Enjoy a complimentary third night stay at the Manila Marriott Hotel From 16 May to 15 August 2010, stay at the Manila Marriott Hotel at Best Available Rates for two consecutive nights – and you’ll receive a complimentary third night stay! And to make your stay even more comfortable, you’ll also enjoy an upgrade to the next available room category – plus daily buffet breakfast for two. For reservations, please quote rate code “CJ8” and your Marco Polo Club membership number. Then present your Marco Polo Club membership card at check-in. Telephone: 800 968 328 (Hong Kong toll-free) Email: asia.reservations@marriott.com Website: www.marriott.com Terms and conditions 1. Room upgrade is subject to availability at the time of reservation. 2. Room rate is subject to service charge and taxes. THE CLUB 35 T R AV E L BY SAL LY H OWAR D Source of the look Instantly recognisable Italian design originated in Milan, where form and function melded to make it accessible to all 36 THE CLUB P From left: Arco lamp by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni; Olivetti Valentine typewriter; Ply on Ply chair by Martino Gamper; Alessi Kettle by Michael Graves; Tufty Time sofa by Patricia Urquiola erhaps you don’t know the name, but you’ll know the look. The influence of disegno industriale, the Italian industrial design movement that first bloomed in early 20th-century Milan, is all around you: in the conical chrome kettles copied from Alessi’s 1985 design classic by Michael Graves; in the voluptuous, rounded office machine design influenced by Olivetti; in any number of takes on elegant desk lamps first styled by Artemide. To the early owners of the Olivetti Valentine typewriter, or the Artemide Nesso (1967), the squat plastic lamp shaped like a nuclear cloud, this was potent stuff. Arriving with mass production, disegno industriale was democratising: it was all about harnessing the possibilities of the production line to bring high design to all. It’s an idea that resonates, and remains as seductively Italian, today. Although the root of disegno industriale was in Italy’s great craftsmanship traditions – Murano glass-blowing, cabinetmaking and lamp decoration – its aesthetic was inarguably born of Futurism, the runaway turn-ofthe-20th-century movement founded by Italian writer Filippo Tommaso. Tommaso and his adherents, as he chirpily wrote, “want no part of it, the past; we are the young and strong Futurists”. Thus the Futurists rejected the stuff y classics-obsessed Victorian age for speed, youth, originality and the technological triumph of man over nature as evidenced by cars, planes and the modern industrial city. Within a decade, their movement was to infiltrate every medium of Italian art: textiles, painting, sculpture, music, architecture, literature and gastronomy. But it was in product design that the new movement was to have its most far-reaching impact. One of the leading lights in Milanese contemporary design, Martino Gamper, 38, spent his childhood in Merano (a town in the Southern Tyrol mountains north T R AV E L States in the export of stackable furniture and home appliances. But it was in the 1950s that the aesthetic impetus truly bloomed, spurred in large part by L’Azucena, a design workshop and think-tank set up at the University of Milan by architect Luigi Caccia Dominioni, with the aim of making everyday objects both functional and beautiful. By the mid-1950s, industrial products had become synonymous with the well-lived life, the concept “consumer aesthetics” was coined and the insatiable conveyor belt of mass production fed the work of talented Italian designers into homes and offices around the world – among them such classic items as Ettore Sottsass’s Valentine typewriter for Olivetti (1969), Franco Albini’s woven cane Margherita (1950) and Gala chairs (1951), and Achille Castiglioni’s alien pod-like suspension lights for Flos (1960). Central to the runaway success of mass-produced Italian design was manufacturers’ relationship with talented star designers, who’d move from brand to brand and became powerful enough to make production decisions on the manufacturers’ behalf. King of these mid-century renaissance men was Giò Ponti – a Milan-born architect and industrial Leading lighting company Flos was founded in Milan in 1962 Gala rattan armchair designed in 1951 by Franco Albini 38 THE CLUB Photos. Gala chair: Alamy/ArgusPhoto . Alessi factory: Gianni Berengo Gardin-Contrasto/IC of Milan) and, after studying sculpture and product design in Vienna, moved to Milan in 1996 to earn his spurs in the city’s design studios. Gamper, who now lives and works in London, recalls growing up inspired by design. “As the centre of Italian design, Milan was a rite of passage for me,” he says. “When I was a child, these inspirational, revolutionary designs were all around me. There was a hotel Giò Ponti designed in the 1940s that was very close to my parent’s home in the mountains. Its smooth lines captured my imagination.” Gamper says he also loved Italy’s cars and bikes, at a time when star industrial designers were sought after by its carmakers, such as Pininfarina for Ferrari. He also appreciated simple designs that he says one might not notice at first, such as the Achille Castiglioni switch, a much-copied rounded light switch designed for component company VLM that became a 1960s standard, and the bollards in Milan designed by Enzo Mari, “a hero of mine”. By the 1940s, Italy was second only to the United Previous spread: Alessi Kettle: Alamy/ArgusPhoto. Ply on Ply chair: Åbäke and Martino Gamper Taraxacum designed by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni designer, furniture designer, artist and publisher who turned his talent with form to everything from bathroom fittings (for Richard Ginori) to chairs (for Cassina, including the famous 1957 Superlight chair that could be lifted by a single finger) and lamps (for Artemide, Fontana Arte and Venini, including the standard-setting minimalist 1931 Bilia lamp). “Giò Ponti showed it was possible to succeed in a number of design fields, and to produce for the mass market, without compromising his standards,” says Gamper. “If I could own one product from the history of Italian design it would be a 1925 cutlery set commissioned from Giò Ponti by Tony Bouilhet. To me it symbolises the best of Italian design in its Alessi design factory in the 1980s with (from left) Alberto Alessi, Achille Castiglioni, Enzo Mari, Aldo Rossi and Alessandro Mendini “EVERYDAY OBJECTS BOTH FUNCTIONAL AND BEAUTIFUL” THE CLUB 39 T R AV E L OWNING AN ICON D Design expert Dominic Lutyens on the best buys in Italian industrial design: b A Achille Castiglioni and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni: Toio floor lamp, 1962. C SStyled from a car headlight and transfformer, the Toio’s spare looks are classic Castiglioni. About USD1,400. C Boffi Carrellone Mini-Kitchen 40 THE CLUB J Colombo: Boffi Carrellone MiniJoe Kitchen, 1963. Operating from one power socket, this is a masterpiece in miniature design with a hob, a fridge, a chopping board, storage drawers and a pull-out work surface. Recently reissued, but originals cost about USD2,300. Ettore Sottsass: Olivetti Valentine typewriter, 1969. Bright red with orange spools, this whimsical design brought pop-art to the workplace. About USD300. Architect and designer Giò Ponti in his Milan studio in 1974 Photos. Joe Colombo: Courtesy of Boffi. Ponti: EDO/RCS/CONTRASTO/IC. Cutlery: Alamy/ArgusPhoto marriage of form and function.” One of these sets recently sold at auction for USD5,000. Today, the popularity of Italian products still pivots on the country’s design talent. In 2007, in the face of growing aggression from Asian manufacturers, Italy’s Institute for Foreign Trade initiated the Machines Italia programme to promote Italian manufacturers’ recognised preeminence in design innovation. “The competition from cheaper rivals toughened in the early 1990s,” says Giorgio Barba Navaretti, Professor of Economics at the University of Milan. “Coupled with this was the impact of the Euro. In the ‘80s and early ‘90s devaluations of the lira helped the country’s exporters retain their edge. But entry into [the single European currency] pushed Italian firms to drastically change the way they did business, as their competitive edge evaporated overnight.” Entering the 21st century, manuacturers were forced to streamline and attract new talent in order to survive. Data from the Bank Ban of Italy showing that PA R T N E R O F F E R “INDUSTRIAL DESIGN REMAINS A GOING CONCERN FOR ITALY” Classic cutlery set designed by Giò Ponti in 1925 between 2002 and 2006 the median age of Italian company chief executives had fallen to 45.4 years of age from 51.9 and the number of CEOs with a university degree had risen to 40.7 percent from 23 percent. These unflinching moves to modernise have paid off and today industrial design remains a going concern for Italy – car and furniture design contributing to the country’s strength in manufacturing (in addition to chemical goods and precision machinery). Even Italy’s fashion designers are gaining ground in the market with Armani, Versace, Valentino and Moschino’s incomes from industrially produced design items – such as eyeglasses and handbags – far outstripping their incomes from haute couture. Alberto Alessi took the helm of one of the most recognisable Italian design factories, Alessi, from his father Carlo in 1970, and sees himself very much in the disegno industriale tradition. “I’m more like an art-gallery owner, museum curator or even a film-maker than a design manager,” he says, dubbing his designers a “stable of first-class racehorses”. Alessi is optimistic that Italy will retain its edge in industrial design, rising to the challenge presented by Asian competitors. For Alessi his brand is selling something concrete and intangible: the Italian dream for living. “As it always has been, successful design today is about being a mediator between the best expressions of creativity and what’s called Enjoy up to HKD350 discount on Milan packages Members of The Marco Polo Club who book a 5-day/3-night Milan package from Cathay Pacific Holidays will receive HKD250 discount on Economy Class packages – and HKD350 discount on Business Class packages. Package prices start from HKD6,190 and include: • A round-trip Economy or Business Class flight between Hong Kong and Milan on Cathay Pacific Airways • Three consecutive nights’ accommodation with daily breakfast at selected hotels • 1,000 Asia Miles (Economy Class) or 2,000 Asia Miles (Business Class) • Travel insurance For reservations, please contact Cathay Holidays Limited: Telephone: +852 2747 4388 Website: www.cxholidays.com Terms and conditions 1. Price is quoted per person, based on two adults sharing one room, checking in and travelling together throughout the entire journey. 2. This offer is not applicable to online booking. 3. This offer is only valid for packages booked and paid for, and for travel between 16 May and 15 August 2010. 4. Cathay Holidays Limited and Asia Miles terms and conditions apply. THE CLUB 41 T R AV E L W H AT ’ S I N S T O R E With so many of the country’s designers based in and around Milan, the city remains the shop-window for Italian design Flos Founded in 1962 and still going strong, Flos produced the output of the celebrated Castiglionis and continues to do so. Come here to pick up a design classic such as the Arco floor lamp or Relemme pendant lamp, or for modern pieces such as Konstantin Grcic’s floor and suspension lamp May Day. Corso Montforte 9, +39 02 7600 1641 www.flos.com Artemide Another lighting legend, with historical lamps such as the Fato by Giò Ponti, Dalù by Vico Magistretti and the sinuous Lesbo by Angelo Mangiarotti. Corso Monforte 19, +39 02 7600 6930 www.artemide.com May Day lamp by Konstantin Grcic 42 THE CLUB Schiffini Founded in the 1920s, this modular kitchen designer is famous for its use of brushed and lacquered aluminiums, as in star designer Vico Magistretti’s sharp-edged, muscular Cinqueterre. Via Passione, +39 02 7600 3211 www.schiffini.it Counter culture: kitchen design by Vico Magistretti Relax in style: sofas by Patricia Urquiola Photo. Alessi: Alessandro Albert – Contour by Getty Images. B&B Italia For retro and up-to-the-minute homeware designs, including Patricia Urquiola’s Tufty Time brilliant-hued blocky sofas and Antonio Citterio’s pencil-thin Charles Bed. Via Durini 14, +39 02 764441 www.bebitalia.it PA R T N E R O F F E R Enjoy a guaranteed room upgrade and exclusive benefits at Park Hyatt Milan the market, but I prefer to call people’s dreams,” he says. “Since the economic downturn, more and more people are buying objects with intellectual and spiritual nourishment in mind. This is something Italy excels at.” The ongoing health of Italian product design, says Deyan Sudjic, Director of The Design Museum in London, which is hosting a series of talks “Made in Italy – The Influence of Italian Design” during May, will depend on playing to its historical strengths. “Italy has a unique place in the landscape of contemporary design with its long history of innovation, rooted in the skill and craftsmanship of its traditional workshops, and continually refined by a commitment to new technologies,” he says. “Italian design, much like Italian culture, is all about the family firm. If the sector keeps sight of this, the future will be bright.” For more on London Design Museum’s talks visit www.designmuseum.org/talks Laid-back: Alberto Alessi carries on the family business From 15 May to 18 August 2010, members of The Marco Polo Club will enjoy the following privileges during their stay at Park Hyatt Milan: • Guaranteed room upgrade from a Deluxe room to Junior Suite with Hyatt Daily Rate • Breakfast buffet (cold buffet only) • One bottle of Italian sparkling wine This elegant hotel is located in the heart of the famous fashion district, overlooking the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and within walking distance of the ultra chic shops in Via Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga. Please quote offer code “MP728 ” and your Marco Polo Club membership number when making your reservations with Hyatt Worldwide Reservation Centre. Then present your Marco Polo Club membership card at check-in Telephone: +852 2956 1234 (Hong Kong) +81 3 3288 1234 (Japan) Email: milan.park@hyatt.com Website: milan.park.hyatt.com THE CLUB 43 INSIDE CX BY TAR A JENK INS AND K AR EN PI T TAR Under control n a darkened room, engineers Pierre Lancrenon and Kevin McHugh closely watch over eight huge monitors that scroll and flicker, as vital new information comes in from dozens of Cathay Pacific aircraft around the world. A Boeing 747-400 in Los Angeles needs extra engine oil; an Airbus Industrie A330-300 that has just arrived in Hong Kong is ready for its yearly overhaul. At Heathrow Airport, an Airbus Industrie A340-300 has detected a minor fault, and avionics expert McHugh is helping the pilot reset computers to avoid a lengthy delay. Working in the Integrated Operations Centre (IOC) is a critical job, and the atmosphere in the hushed room at Cathay Pacific City in Hong Kong is focused and intense. But Cathay Pacific is an airline that is unfailingly serious about safety. “The IOC forms the hub of the airline,” says Christopher Gibbs, Cathay Pacific’s Engineering Director. “The operations team shares the same space as the engineers and when there’s any sort of disruption – bad weather, a strike, aircraft on ground – staff from the two departments can easily integrate to take the appropriate action. This might include communicating with pilots, or staying in touch with the ground engineers. We’re monitoring the planes all the time with the latest technology. The key is good co-ordination across functions.” 44 THE CLUB There’s no better example of how this works than during a typhoon. The IOC has a large bank of spare desks that is used to accommodate extra staff during a crisis, such as when a storm blows into Hong Kong. “All stations in the IOC are manned in the event of a typhoon – aside from monitoring and managing the planes themselves, staff call every member of The Marco Polo Club due to travel, to advise them of forthcoming delays,” says Gibbs. Entering the IOC at Cathay Pacific City is an experience akin to being a visitor at NASA’s Mission Control Centre. The airline is an early adopter of state-of-the-art communications technology. The room is filled with rows of monitors displaying the latest software, automatically downloading information from planes. “Our planes are now self-monitoring, and the staff at IOC often know about problems even before the pilots do,” says Gibbs. “If there are three systems running and one has an issue, we might see it before they do. We certainly use leading technology but when it comes down to it, the culture of safety at the heart of the company is the most important thing.” And Cathay Pacific isn’t afraid to put its money where its mouth is where safety is concerned: in 1997 the company held back an entire fleet. “We grounded the Airbus A330 fleet of 10 or so aeroplanes because we’d had an engine issue. We made the decision to put safety first, despite great expense to the airline. Photo: David G. McIntyre Rest assured, Cathay Pacific’s engineering department monitors all aircraft at all times Cathay Pacific Engineering Director Christopher Gibbs INSIDE CX Gibbs and HAECO technician Liu Guoyou check the inflight entertainment system 46 THE CLUB Cathay Pacific has reduced margin for human error to the absolute minimum by ensuring any critical checks on the twin-engine aircraft are carried out separately by two people. If an engineer carries out a check on one engine, he is not permitted to do it on another. Cathay Pacific outsources much of its maintenance to quality partners, including aircraft engineering firms such as Hong Kong Aircraft Engineering Company Limited (HAECO) and Taikoo (Xiamen) Aircraft Engineering Co. Ltd. (TAECO). “For example, to ensure service excellence, we send the engines around the globe to be serviced, from Hong Kong to Zurich, Madrid or Hamburg. We find outsourcing gives us more flexibility,” says Gibbs. To make triply sure the processes are watertight, the Civil Aviation Department in Hong Kong regularly carries out external audits. When it comes to new planes, Cathay Pacific has full-time managers based in Toulouse (where Airbuses are made) and Seattle (home to Boeing), who oversee every step as a new Cathay Pacific aircraft is constructed. “The manufacturers do a lot of quality inspections themselves, but we witness many of their checks and, when the plane is delivered to Hong Kong, we check it very thoroughly again.” Gibbs runs a tight ship and leads by example. “I walk through the maintenance control centre once a day to find out what is happening at the sharp end. The senior staff in my area are not divorced from day-to-day operations. We keep in touch, we meet twice a week to simply discuss operations.” Gibbs is intent on keeping his finger on the pulse. For example, any time an inflight entertainment system goes down on an aircraft, Gibbs is personally notified by SMS on his mobile phone, no matter where he is or what time of day it might be. “I’m getting maybe one alert in a month and we’re operating 400 flights a day.” So back to those entertainment systems that figure so largely in passenger’s minds. Gibbs says the airline has been making Christopher Gibbs (top, right) keeps a close watch on all aspects of aircraft maintenance Delivering a new aircraft (above) Photos: David G. McIntyre Our passengers place great trust in us to get them from A to B safely; they may not articulate it as their primary concern – focusing instead on seat pitch or the inflight entertainment system. But of course it’s paramount and our overriding responsibility is to them. There is a prodigious safety culture here, which has been built up over time. It sounds easy to put safety first, but in practice it’s not quite so straightforward. At Cathay Pacific we have worked hard to create a robust platform to deliver it.” Gibbs and his team are responsible for the maintenance of 150 aircraft, including Cathay Pacific’s own fleet, the Dragonair fleet and those of Air Hong Kong, a joint venture with international courier DHL. Planes are painstakingly serviced every year, with a major overhaul every five years lasting three or four weeks, where the aircraft is completely opened up. “Every single galley and seat is taken out, as are the side walls. You could argue it’s unnecessary but it has to be done. The whole objective of maintenance is to be proactive, and find issues before they become problems.” Of course, each time a flight lands there are also rigorous checks, including tyre pressure, system checks and filling up with fuel. great strides to improve its service. “We have lifted overall basic Personal Television (PTV) reliability on departure to 99.94 percent. Resets are only at 97.38 percent, so three in 100 passengers are affected, and we are now working to lift this. Seat reliability is well over 99.9 percent in Business and Economy Class. First Class seat reliability at 98.8 percent is not yet satisfactory and so we are currently implementing a modification programme on the actuators [switch mechanism] and seat control, with about half the Boeing 747 fleet completed. We are working on a defect-free initiative, and over the last three or four years have Maintenance Controller Brendan Clarke in the Integrated Operations Centre in Hong Kong been placing greatly increased emphasis on cabin equipment – ovens, chillers, toilets, coffee makers and so on.” For someone who’s always had a passion for aviation, Gibbs’ job is only set to get more interesting, with the advent of the new double-decker Airbus A380, and carbon composite Airbus A350 and Boeing 787 planes. These planes are constructed from the same lightweight material as tennis rackets, so there is little or no corrosion. For Cathay Pacific, the possibilities for engineering and safety are entering an exciting new phase. “THE WHOLE OBJECTIVE OF MAINTENANCE IS TO FIND ISSUES BEFORE THEY BECOME PROBLEMS” THE CLUB 47 C X N E WS Fly to Moscow, the beating heart of Russia Kingfisher Airlines to join oneworld India’s leading domestic carrier Kingfisher Airlines is preparing to join oneworld® after signing a memorandum of understanding as its first step towards full membership of the world’s leading airline alliance, subject to Indian regulatory approval. Kingfisher Airlines could be expected to start flying as part of oneworld next year. Its addition will link India’s most extensive domestic network with oneworld’s unrivalled global network as the only alliance with airlines based on every continent. It will add 58 Indian cities to the oneworld map. This will expand its network to 800 destinations in almost 150 countries, served by a combined fleet of 2,350 aircraft operating about 9,000 flights a day, carrying some 340 million passengers a year, providing greater flexibility and choice for your travel needs. 48 THE CLUB New route to Moscow Cathay Pacific Airways will begin a service to the Russian capital Moscow on 13 July with three flights a week leaving Hong Kong on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Moscow is a stunning city steeped in history and culture. Red Square, The Kremlin and the Cathedral of the Assumption will be among many visitors’ must-sees. And then there’s the art galleries and the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet. All this and much more is now within easy reach on Cathay Pacific. The Moscow route follows the new service to Italy’s fashion capital Milan, which was launched on 28 March. Flight no. From To Departure/Arrival Days of operation CX207 HKG DME 00:45/07:05 Tue, Thu & Sat CX206 DME HKG 17:45/07:00 (+1) Tue, Thu & Sat Use the e-Channel for faster clearance No waiting around at immigration For faster immigration clearance at Hong Kong International Airport, Silver or above members can use the Frequent Visitor e-Channel. Enrol quickly with your membership card and travel document at the desks located after immigration upon entering Hong Kong, then simply scan your travel document and thumbprint each time you travel. Extra special delivery service Cathay Pacific’s inflight sales programme Discover the Shop has been listening to passengers. In October 2009 it launched a Home Delivery Service for passengers living in Hong Kong. The focus was on fine wines and the service, which delivers purchases direct to customer’s doors, proved a hit. In response to demand, the service was expanded in April 2010 to include Château Lynch Bages 2000, gourmet food and other affordable lifestyle luxuries. Go to www.cathaypacific.com/dutyfree to see the full range. Orders can be placed inflight or online and hassle-free delivery is guaranteed. Photos. Russia: Frans Lemmens – The Image Bank/Getty Images CLUB PARTNERS : For exclusive Club partner offers, please visit the member’s area of www.cathaypacific.com Hilton Worldwide Hilton® Hotels • Conrad® Hotels & Resorts • Doubletree by Hilton™ • Embassy Suites Hotels by Hilton™ • Hilton Garden Inn™ • Hilton Grand Vacations™ • The Waldorf Astoria™ Hotels & Resorts Hyatt Hotels & Resorts™ Park Hyatt™ Hotels • Grand Hyatt™ Hotels • Hyatt Regency™ Hotels • Hyatt Place™ • Hyatt Summerfield Suites™ Langham Hotels International The Langham • Langham Place • Eaton Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group Marriott International Hotels Marriott® Hotels & Resorts • JW Marriott® Hotels & Resorts • Renaissance® Hotels & Resorts Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts • Traders Hotels Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide Sheraton Hotels & Resorts® • Four Points® by Sheraton • St. Regis® Hotels & Resorts • The Luxury Collection® • Le Méridien • W Hotels® • Westin Hotels & Resorts® Swire Hotels The Peninsula Hotels Avis Hertz SIXT rent a car For all partner offers, prices quoted are subject to change without prior notice. Peak season surcharges apply. Advance reservation is required. Rooms and offers are subject to availability. Blackout dates apply. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotional offer or membership benefit. THE CLUB 49 MILAN DESIGN ITALY´S STYLE CAPITAL QUARTER 2 2010 24 HOURS IN MANILA MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB QUARTER 2 2010