Cruiser Log by Sheila Penfold
The Big One
Canaries to St Lucia Tuesday 27th November to Friday 14th December.
In November 2012 the Tim and Freddie Penfold family sailing adventure had reached Las Palmas in
the Canaries, and the next leg was Trans Atlantic to St Lucia in the Caribbean. Their year long trip on
‘Open Blue’ had started in Greece, and had now reached the Canaries where a crew change was
planned. Freddie and the girls, now 3 ½ and 5 flew back to the UK , while the ARC crew of Oliver
Curties, Paul Noble and James George (JJ) and myself joined Tim on board.
‘Open Blue’ is a 47’ Northwind, built in Spain, not in the first flush of youth, but sound and well
found, and fully kitted out as a floating home for a year. She is equipped with a watermaker,
generator, twin foresails, good big engine, and bunks for eight in three cabins. With two showers,
loads of storage space (most of it full) a good gallery and lovely light airy saloon, we were in for an
exciting trip.
We arrived in Las Palmas to a scene of feverish activity, shopping, preparing sails, washing
vegetables and fruit for storage, safety checks, and numerous briefings. With over 220 entries in the
event there was a tremendous bustle and hum. There were also one or two sundowners and parties
which needed attention. I managed to blot my copy book early on by walking off the pontoon, and I
can image Tim thinking ‘oh dear, what have I let myself in for! We arrived on the pontoon in the
dark, and as Oly seemed to be taking a bit of time to climb on board, I walked past him to grab the
rail and SPLASH. It was a very short length of pontoon. The water was very warm, and my first
thought was, oh bother why did I put my clean jacket on to save carrying it, and even more oh
bother, my phone was in my pocket! The one good thing was that it did point out to my fellow crew
that when I say my eyes are not good in the dark, I do mean it. That was the end of my phone! A
quick shower and off for a Sundowner. The next four days were filled with last minute food
shopping, all non perishables had already be organised by Freddie, but the list included fresh
provisions, fishing tackle and ukuleles.
JJ arrived from Australia in time for the scheduled start on 25th, but this was delayed by 48 hours
due to some adverse weather conditions. Some of the racing fleet did start as planned with much
hullabaloo and local bands, but of the few cruisers who started, some turned back. The extra days
were easily filled with jobs, including a last wash which left ‘Blue’ looking like a floating Chinese
laundry.
Tuesday 27. We were up early, relatively, to complete the jobs list. We all had our areas of
responsibility. Tim was needless to say in charge, but Oly was medic and moral booster, Paul was
electrics and Marmite promoter, JJ everything else and fishing. My special job was with food storage
and rotation. This involved lots of washing vegetables in a mild solution of Milton, and drying in the
sun. Wrapping in foil, newspaper, or Lakeland green storage were also used as methods to keep
food fresh. Storing on board so as to be accessible but stacked so it would all not shift with the
inevitable motion. Most of it ended up in crates in a top bunk bed. More of this later... Also I was
charged with painting our battle flag on the harbour wall for posterity. With hindsight, ‘Blue’ should
have been running downwind. Tim and Paul managed to finally fix the wind indicator which involved
going to the top of the mast, but this was only half an hour before the off. The water was topped
up, all rubbish ashore, and shoes and decks washed down with fresh water. Crew shirts on, a quick
photo or two and we were ready for the off.
It was a grey squally day, with gusts of up to 40 knots, but much anticipation as we left the marina in
a great raft of yachts. No bands for the second start, but lots of spectators on the harbour moles.
With so far to go we did not attempt to be first over the line, but soon settled down, getting used to
the rather awkward motion caused by a fairly confused sea. Oly had suggested we all take some
motion sickness medication, at least for the first 48 hours or so, and patches were distributed except
Paul and I who stuck to good old Stugeron. The patches worked well, and although one or two had a
few ‘quiet’ moments, no one was seriously seasick during the whole trip.
So we were finally off with the Forecast of 25-28 knots, oilskins and lifejackets, a reef and reduced
genoa, and cracking along at 6-7 knots. The wind slowly increased. We slotted straight into the
watch rota, which works very well and bears a bit of explanation.
The 24 hours were divided into 3 hour watches, and with one crew member cooking for a whole
day, that left four crew to cover the eight three hour watches, with two on watch at a time. The
cook for the day started with a normal 0600-0900 watch and then was off watch apart from the
galley duties until the following 0600. (This was the ideal time to start the bread for breakfast!) After
cook had done dinner, they were off until the next 0600, so it was even worth putting the pyjamas
on! The 0600 watch was always shared by the on-coming, and off -going cook, so notes could be
compared. It worked very well. One problem I found was that as it was four days between your cook
days, it was difficult to keep track of what was where in the galley lockers, as contents frequently all
fell out with the motion. We invented a new game - extreme cooking! Although the galley was
narrow, this meant that to counteract the motion you could lean on the cooker while washing up,
and also lean on the sink while chopping etc. Everything had to be wedged in, weighted down, or left
with a lid on, and often it all ended up on the galley floor. This could be quite exciting if things were
hot, and I learnt a few new, er, words. Food was an important part of the day, a time to socialize and
gave the day structure. We ate well, some meals were a bit experimental, and Paul’s meals had a
heavy Marmite bias, but we did not go hungry.
The motion deserves a mention. For the first ten days or so the sea state was fairly rough and lumpy,
with no regular motion that you could get used to. I certainly got used to one hand for the ship and
one for myself. Putting oilskin trousers on in the main saloon in the dark with the boat lurching
about, and a slippery varnished floor could be fun, and I acquired several impressive bruises. This
only lasted for about ten days, then the weather warmed up and the sea sorted itself out a bit.
Our first 24 hour run was an impressive 174 miles. The wind had slowly built until we had 40 knots,
so another two reefs in the main, and the 3rd reef is huge. More rolls in the genoa to balance, and
‘Blue’ was trucking along at 7 knots plus, and surfing down waves at 10.6 knots. We had slotted
straight into the watch pattern, Oly was cook. That first night at sea was bumpy with strong wind,
but we were making good progress. It was amazing how quickly the other yachts dropped out of
sight.
The next day dawned still grey and overcast. Still 25-30 knots, 40 in the squalls, with two rolls in the
main, but all getting used to the routine on board. There was a fantastic moon that night, and one
excitment when we radioed a large fishing vessel, who obligingly altered course for us.
Still bowling along at 6-7 knots, the record surf down a wave 10.8 knots. Daily run for Thursday
was 156 nautical miles. JJ is cooking, not easy with the motion. I had decided to store all the extra
stores in the top bunk, opposite the girls cabin. It was quite difficult to check the food over at that
height, and I was a bit concerned about the weight, the lee cloth was straining at the seams! So I
decided to move it to the lower bunk. After an hour of bumpy hot work and a few more bruises, all
was in the lower bunk.
On Friday 30th. The breeze is 15-30 knots, and daily run 167. JJ excelled himself catching the first
fish.
We think it was a blue fin tuna, weight about 10 lbs but it may have been a skipjack. Much
excitement, and the fish box came into its own. A large plastic crate with lid, which keeps all the
mess in one place. First the decks were sloshed with salt water, then fish came aboard. A quick
squirt of alcohol spray to the gills, to quieten the fish, current mix is gin and rum! Sushi for lunch
and tuna steaks for supper, very good. Although Olys attempt at dinner in the saloon with plates
was a disaster, and we will go back to dog bowls ( soup plates) and spoons in the cockpit with head
torches. Back to three reefs, sea state rough, but wonderful moon. Flying fish on deck.
Monday brings a record days run so far 175 nautical miles. Course 237o, uneven swell. 1027 nautical
miles sailed, so we had a bottle of wine to celebrate the 1000 miles up. Two fishing lines out but
nothing caught. Night watches are developing into noisy sessions of backgammon by moonlight. Tim
has a small amplifier box, which we can use with MP3’s and iPhones, and it not too loud for the
sleeping off watch crew.
The days begin to follow a pattern, and are slipping past. The breeze was up and down, sea still
confused, but we caught an albacore, (thought that was a sailing dinghy) it was filleted and in the
fridge before you could say knife. We had a half way party, bottle of wine with bangers and mash.
Then at last shorts and tee shirt weather at night as well as day. The wind dropped to 5 knots, so
shook out all the reefs and rolls. A heavy downpour arrived, so all crew except me stripped off and
had a fresh water shower, then quick as a flash, 35 knots. We launched a message in a bottle with all
our email addresses in it, who knows in a year or two...
It had to happen, suddenly no wind. After crew discussion about motoring, it was decided to put
the engine on for a bit. Although the ARC is not strictly a race, we are all allocated classes and there
are time penalties if you use the engine. Tim has a rendezvous in St Lucia with Freddie and the girls,
and we all have flights to catch, and left two days late as well. We are going nowhere, so engine on,
but 55 minutes later off again, as the wind filled in 5-10 knots. Frequent heavy showers, and no, my
oilskin trousers are not waterproof. Sailing close hauled for a while, caught medium size dorado.
Engine on and off again, moral a bit low.
Next day and we are sailing again, and with staysail up as well for the first time. Daily run only 132
but only 1000 miles left to St Lucia, so small celebration with beer and rum. Also for moonlit cockpit
entertainment Peruda has appeared, a version of liar dice. We have to put wooden plugs in the self
draining cockpit holes, or we would lose all the dice.
The food storage on lower bunk was not a good idea, but good exercise moving it all back to top
bunk. I also found a rotting cabbage which has been worrying my nose for a day or two. We are now
into regular breadmaking, as all our stocks of sliced and part baked has gone. The part baked rolls
were excellent and kept very well. Caught a small dorado. Tim has a sense of humour failure, as Paul
having a lie down on his bunk opened the hatch for some air. Not to be advised. A big wave came in
soaking Paul, bedding and all cushions etc. We dried it all eventually, but the colour ran from
mattress cover over all the cushions. Tim made the point that ‘Blue’ is his home, so we all made an
extra effort to be a bit tidier. I had noticed that among the crew one is either tidy or not, JJ and I
tend to be tidy but.......
Next morning is wet, 2000 miles on the clock, and fickle wind, so rather a lot of sail trimming. Daily
run only 123. There is relatively little to do when on watch, as George, the self steering gear does
most of the helming. In the first days when there was such an unpredictable sea, George did better
that certainly I could. As I am used to a tiller I found there was no ‘feel’ on the wheel. A wave would
creep up behind and catch the rudder, by the time one reacts, ‘Blue’ has slid off the side of the
wave, well off course. Today we lose another hour on the clock, a total of 3-4 hours needs to be
‘lost’ before St Lucia. Two other boats visable in the night. We have not seen many since day two or
three, and we can check on who they are with AIS, a wonderful invention, which splatters COLLISON
all over the computer screen when another vessal gets within the preset range. We have mainly
seen the same competitors, obviously on a similar course. We did not often see lights on the
surrounding sea, but I gave myself a shock one dawn watch when I suddenly saw a green light
astern. Panic not, it was Venus.
Another low daily run, 1915 on log and another squally damp morning. We have not had too many
lovely sunrises and sets, too much cloud around. However on the clear nights the stars were
unbelievable, a complete arc of star filled night sky moving slowly towards the horizon. For the first
two weeks we had lovely moonlight as well. Slowly the day warmed up, and Paul and I did a bit of
washing, and got it all dry.
We then had our medical emergency. JJ was by the mast under the spinnaker pole, when the pole
slipped down its track, catching him on the head. He dropped like a stone, bleeding copiously. Oly
quickly assumed control, with the patient down into the cabin, pressure on wound and feet above
head, Oly could inspect the damage. We don’t think he had been knocked out, but examination
revealed a nasty cut, and he was in shock. Oly expertly cleaned and bandaged after a bit of a haircut,
not easy on a head, and all held in place with a fetching beanie hat. Tim and Oly decided that as we
were a long way from anywhere, they would use the satellite phone and ring Falmouth Coastguards
for some more advice. Within two minutes Oly was talking to the A and E doctor at QA Portsmouth.
It was confirmed that the treatment was correct, and we were advised to let him get some rest, but
wake every hour to see it he was still coherent. We did this for some hours, until the reception we
got from him when woken up assured us that he was recovering.
Next morning JJ was up on deck at 0600 feeling fine, and has decided to shave his head. All the crew
except for one, are now sporting beards, and it does look a bit strange with a shaven head. We were
all a bit sobered by the accident, it happened so quickly.
On the subject of sober, we were not a dry ship. There were a few bottles of wine, a couple of
bottles of rum, numerous slabs of soft drinks and Coke etc, and beer. Consternation today, as there
are only 24 beers left. Storing all the cans had been a bit of a problem until we got it sorted by duct
taping them to the cabin table, and to the bulkhead in the aft cabin. Luckily we had plenty of duct
tape One day to provide some amusement we did a blind taste test between Coke, Diet Coke and
Coke Zero. I don’t think any conclusion was reached.
Today my imagined dream of Altantic downwind sailing was fulfilled. Genoa boomed out, two rolls
in the main and rolling along at 7 knots. Daily run was 173 nautical miles. Oly made soda bread for
breakfast, a little odd as he used coconut milk instead of buttermilk. I spent most of the day
repairing the red ensign though not sure it was worth it. Think I might give ‘Blue’ a new one for
Christmas. Unfortunately today a wave came through the hatch above the chart table and scored a
direct hit on the laptop. It is now recovering upside down on Tim’s pillow, still working, just. It is
rather an essential piece of kit, also used for sending emails etc. James and I have changed our
flights home back to 18th, having already made one change when we left late. We hope to be in by
14th. A sweepstake has been started on time of arrival, first sighting of land, and the winner gets to
wear Oly’s red trousers!
Now only 256 nautical miles to go, my day to cook and I am feeling a bit sad, one part of me does
not want to get there. Trying to use up all the perishables, and rather surprised that freshly
squeezed orange juice was rather scorned at breakfast, what with scurvy and all that...Made
wholemeal bread for breakfast and baps for lunch. We had McPenfolds burgers, that takes me back
to sailing in Sunmaid when the boys were small. Dinner was ham and cheese ryebread squares as
starter. Oly not satisfied so raided the fridge for more ham and cheese and ‘that jam stuff all the
Italians like to eat with cheese’. Main course was Pasta with prawns done with tomato, lime, garlic
and ginger, not bad, and I found a bottle of white wine in the fridge. Thinking back on my time on
board, I have never been bored, done very little reading, mended a few things, untangled 100
metres of fishing line, and made a cover for my iPad out of wet suit stuff. I did very little sail
trimming etc, there was always willing hands for that, and I was conscious at night of my poor
eyesight, and did not leave the cockpit. ‘Gaia’ another ARC yacht is around us all the time now,
ahead, behind, off to starboard, it is amazing how few other boats we have seen. We had one nice
chat with a tanker who passed fairly close, and wondered what we were doing.
Still tramping along, it amazes me that when down below you feel the motion, speed, and noise, but
when up on deck it all seems almost peaceful. Off to my bunk, it is a pyjama night, and not on watch
until 0600. Wonderful stars, and sad to be our last night at sea, but exciting to make a landfall
tomorrow.
The last 100 miles is dragging, as we are making made slow progress, also the beer situation was
getting serious. Breeze now from the North, so pole down and reaching along at 5 knots. JJ is cook
today and has made bread for breakfast, which was the best so far. Scrambled eggs on fresh bread,
Marmite optional, with fried ham. We really have done well with the food, apart from a UHT milk
lake, which is another story, we only have onions, garlic, apples and some citrus fruit remaining.
Other good breakfasts were Pauls famous pancakes, he admits to not being a natural cook, and
relies heavily on Marmite. The term applied to a plate of pancakes appearing from the galley was labrador those! Eggy bread was another favourite. Other memorable meals were the sushi and tuna
steaks and other fish meals. There was a most convenient porthole, just above floor level in the
cockpit, and with direct access from the galley. Very good for handing drinks and food up on deck
without needing to lurch up the companionway.
At 10.55 LAND AHOY, and we can see St Lucia’s biggest mountain. A pod of 40 dolphins came to play
round the bow for 20 minutes which was rather special. JJ won the sweepstake for first land sighting,
Paul won the distance sailed, who will win time of arrival? Lunch was Pot Noodles, no comment.
‘Gaia’ is still keeping pace, but then puts up her spinnaker and disappears ahead. Not much wind and
a bit of a swell, rather tedious. Oly decided to have a shower ready for arrival, and unfortunately
Tim’s phone accidentally joined him. We did not do too well with electricals, as well as my phone
going for a swim my camera spent a wet night in the cockpit. The only real breakage apart from JJ’s
head, was a plastic fishing reel, which looked as if it had seen better days anyway.
We finally finished mid afternoon on Friday 14th December, making it a crossing of a very
respectable 17 ½ days at an average speed of 6.6 knots. The best days run was 176 nautical miles; six
fish caught, three pots of Marmite consumed; fastest recorded speed on log was 10.8 knots, and we
cracked open the last beer as we crossed the line, and there is still enough pasta on board for a
circumnavigation.
There was a very excited reception committee awaiting us, and huge hugs and even bigger rum
punches to be had on the pontoon. I was sad it was over, but felt we had all had an amazing
experience. The best bits , in no particular order were some wonderful sunsets and sunrises; playing
backgammon and Peruda by moonlight; lying on ones back in shorts and tee-shirt on warm cockpit
cushions watching a fantastic display of stars; sharing a night watch with my elder son and talking
about everything under the sun - or moon. The worst bits, having to use UHT milk; being thrown out
of my bunk by an extra big wave, no harm done; first time eating a Pot Noodle.
In conclusion my thanks go to Tim for agreeing to have me on board, I enjoyed every minute, think I
pulled my weight, and have had a lifetime experience in very good company. Thanks go as well to
Anthony for letting me have my ‘gap month’ and looking after the cat and chickens, and holding the
fort at home. Would I do it again, you bet!
Sheila Penfold 19th November 2013