REDKEN TECHNICAL HANDBOOK 2013 GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. WWW.REDKEN.CO.UK INTRODUCTION TECHNICAL INFORMATION PRE-SERVICE BEST PRACTICES BEFORE YOU BEGIN ANY CHEMICAL SERVICE... • Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product Haircolor may be readily accepted by porous hair that has been chemically treated or damaged from environmental exposure or heat styling. Always conduct a preliminary strand test to determine how the hair will accept color. Apply the formula to a small section of hair and process according to instructions; adjust the formula accordingly. • emove earrings. Behind the ear and using a cottonR bud apply a little of the unmixed colorant product sufficient to cover an area of 1 to 2 cm2 (e.g. the size of a small coin). Re-apply allowing it to dry between applications. Carefully reseal the colorant container. • Leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching. If during this period you or your client notice any abnormal reactions, such as itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area, DO NOT APPLY THE PRODUCT. ALLERGY ALERT TEST PERFORM AN ALLERGY ALERT TEST 48 HOURS BEFORE EACH USE OF HAIRCOLOR, AS ALLERGIES CAN DEVELOP SUDDENLY, EVEN THOUGH YOUR CLIENT HAS PREVIOUSLY USED A HAIRCOLOR FROM THIS BRAND OR ANOTHER. If your client has a tattoo, the risk of an allergic reaction may be increased. INTRODUCTION STRAND TEST HOW TO PERFORM THE ALLERGY ALERT TEST TECHNICAL INFORMATION COLOR WHEEL & WORKING WITH UNDERTONES YELLOW ORANGE GREEN WORKING WITH UNDERTONES Undertones are the unrefined warm tones exposed during the lifting process. Always consider the exposed undertones visible at the target level. To counteract undertones, use the Color Wheel to select a shade level with tonal value opposite to the undertone exposed at the target level. Remember, opposites neutralize. To enhance undertones, select a shade with a tonal value similar to the undertone exposed at the target level. RED BLUE INTRODUCTION BACKGROUND COLOR AND TONE VIOLET Background is the portion of the color base that helps produce balanced, natural-looking results and gives the shade its foundation. Tone is the portion of the base that gives a shade its unique character. FORMULATION GUIDELINES 1. Determine your client’s natural haircolor level. Remember to consider percentage of gray, hair texture, condition and hair density. 2. Determine the target color (final level and tone) desired by your client. 3. Determine the undertone found at the target level (refer to Level System). This step does not apply to Shades EQ Gloss and Shades EQ Cream. 4. Select the shade to enhance, balance or counteract undertones and achieve the target color. 0 NATURAL 1 BLUE/ASH 2 VIOLET 3 GOLD 4 COPPER 5 MAHOGANY/RED VIOLET 6 RED 7 GREEN APPLICATION UNDERSTANDING ZONES Redken uses the term “Zones” to refer to specific areas of the hair strand. The hair is divided into 3 Zones. Each Zone will accept color differently based on the condition of the hair. Understanding Zones will help you achieve even color results, whether you are performing a retouch, virgin application or changing a client’s formula. BEST PRACTICES 1. Pre-treat the hair with Hair Cleansing Cream. Follow with Extreme CAT or Redken Chemistry as needed. Dry hair. 2. Apply color generously using fine ¼ inch diagonal partings. 3. Use the opposite diagonal to crosscheck and ensure proper application. 4. Use a timer for accurate timing. Do not over- or under-process. Zone 1 When lifting or lightening natural hair, the scalp area will always be warmer/brighter; and the midshaft and ends will appear darker and drabber. To ensure even color from scalp to ends, create formulas with the appropriate family shades. ON-SCALP APPLICATION 1. Start with dry hair. Divide into 4 sections. 2. Use a bowl and brush or bottle. Apply color taking ¼ inch partings for even saturation. 3. Process as directed (refer to Mixing and Processing charts). 4. Rinse, shampoo with Color Extend. Condition with Color Extend. Zone 3 VIRGIN HAIR According to the Principles of Haircolor, color lifts lighter and brighter in Zone 1. To compensate, two alternatives are possible when applying color to virgin hair: The TRADITIONAL VIRGIN application consists of adjusting the formula with a higher volume developer in Zone 2, starting the application in Zone 2 and finishing with Zone 1. Zone 1 is the regrowth or root area, which is closest to the scalp and less than 3 months old. When lifting or lightening, Zone 1 is approximately the first ½ inch of hair. When coloring level-onlevel or deepening haircolor, Zone 1 can be up to 1 ½ inches. Zone 2 is the mid-shaft area of the hair strand and begins where Zone 1 ends. In healthy hair, Zone 2 can extend all the way through the ends of the hair strand, including hair that has been altered with chemicals (coloring products, permanent waves, straighteners and/or relaxers) and/or exposed to brushing, combing and heat styling tools. Zone 3 is overly porous hair that extends past the shoulders in length. It has been repeatedly altered with chemicals and/or exposed to heat styling tools. Not all hair has a Zone 3. EXAMPLE USING CHROMATICS: TRADITIONAL VIRGIN APPLICATION Zone 1 Formula: 5N (5) CHROMATICS + 20 volume CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer Zone 2 Formula: 5N (5) CHROMATICS + 30 volume CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer 1. Apply selected formula to Zone 2 (the mid-shaft). 2. Immediately apply to Zone 1 (the scalp area) the formula with the lower developer 3. Begin processing time after the Zone 1 application is complete. 4. Process at room temperature for 35 minutes. 5. Rinse and shampoo with Color Extend. Condition with Color Extend. INTRODUCTION Zone 2 RETOUCH Apply selected formula to Zone 1. The MODERN VIRGIN application consists of using a lighter and warmer formula in Zone 2, applying color to Zone 1 first, and then to Zone 2. BRIGHTENING REFRESH ZONES 2 AND 3 ADVANCED BLENDING OR COVERING GRAY Follow GLAZE Steps using Shades EQ Cover Plus. Process as directed (refer to Mixing and Processing charts). Refer to each brand for specific guidelines. EXAMPLE USING CHROMATICS INTRODUCTION Use the Zone 1 formula and apply to Zone 2 for the last 5–10 minutes. Or apply a formula slightly lighter and warmer than Zone 1 the last 10 minutes; this formula may be mixed into the existing Zone 1 formula (always add an equal amount of CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer). OFF-SCALP APPLICATION GLAZE OR CORRECT WEAVE OR HIGHLIGHTS 1. Apply Shades EQ Cream or Shades EQ Cover Plus to Zone 1 taking ½ inch partings. After wrapping the last foil, process as directed (refer to Mixing and Processing charts). Rinse and shampoo with Hair Cleansing Cream or Color Extend. Condition with Color Extend. 2. Apply and fully saturate Zone 2, taking ¼ inch partings. 3. Process as directed (refer to Mixing and Processing charts). 4. Rinse, shampoo and condition with Color Extend. GLAZE RETOUCH Follow GLAZE Steps 1 and 2. Bring through mid-shaft and ends for up to 20 minutes as needed. LOWLIGHTS Isolate strands in a foil or paint freehand. Strand test for proper deposit. Formulas should be slightly lighter than natural level and include some warmth. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR AT A GLANCE Category Form Level of Lift Dye System Minutes CHROMATICS • 2X stronger hair** • No ammonia, no odor • Up to 100% gray coverage • Multi-dimensional, 4D color results • Radiant reflection • Lasting vibrancy • Up to 3 levels & deposit 35 minutes CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER Permanent Cream • Up to 2 levels & deposit 100% oxidative • Up to 5 levels & deposit 45 minutes SHADES EQ GLOSS • 2X stronger & smoother hair*** • No ammonia, no odor • Up to 100% gray coverage • Pre-blended shades for hair with 75% or more gray • Multi-dimensional, 4D color results • Radiant reflection • Enriched with argan oil • 2X stronger hair** • No ammonia, no odor • Lift and tone in 1 step • Long-lasting conditioning properties • No ammonia • Most versatile haircolor • Healthy, shiny results • Incredible conditioning Oxidative & direct • Deposit only SHADES EQ CREAM 20 minutes Demi-Permanent Cream • No ammonia • Rich, deep, long-lasting color results • Precise color placement 100% oxidative SHADES EQ COVER PLUS • Up to 1 level • Subtle brightening * Launching September 2013 ** Haircolor System with 20 Volume Oil in Cream Developer and Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo vs. uncolored hair treated with a non-conditioning shampoo *** Leaves hair 2X smoother than before coloring • No ammonia • Up to 75% gray blending • Subtle brightening effect INTRODUCTION CHROMATICS EXTRA LIFT* Demi-Permanent Liquid Characteristics HAIR FEELS UP TO 2X STRONGER*. COLOR BECOMES 4-DIMENSIONAL 2 PROTEIN Breakthrough formula leaves hair 2x stronger* ODS2 (Oil Delivery System) + Protein Extract Technology infuses protein extracts and long lasting color into every strand No Ammonia, No Odor formula for the ultimate in client comfort 4D Color Results offer up to 100% gray coverage and radiant, multi dimensional color Rich conditioning formula leaves strands soft and touchable CHROMATICS ODS + EXTRACT TECHNOLOGY HIGH INSPIRATION PALETTE CHROMATICS NATURAL ADJUSTING COOLS COOL BROWNS & BEIGES True natural tones that provide excellent white coverage. Use these shades: • When covering white but concerned about exposing warmth • When mixing a shade with a cooler reflect to ensure coverage without adding unwanted warmth For ultimate control of warm undertones Control excess warmth while imparting beautiful brown and beige tones REDS & VIOLETS COPPERS GOLDS The perfect range of reds with unprecedented staying power Brilliant coppers with amazing warmth and dimension Glimmering gold with intense reflection RUBILANE® TECHNOLOGY - The truest copper dye* - Stunning copper results - High intensity, even after 20 shampoos WARM BROWNS & BEIGES NATURAL WARM CLEAR Rich, versatile shades with the perfect touch of warmth Use these versatile, natural-looking warm shades: • When concerned about a flat result, to ensure coverage and add slight warmth to the end result • When mixing a shade with a warm reflect to ensure coverage, without flattening the warm reflect Use alone to lighten without depositing color, or mix with other shades for the ultimate in versatility CHROMATICS CHROMATICS 4 DIMENSIONAL PERMANENT COLOR CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER AGE DEFYING PERMANENT COLOR Only Redken could take your color results to this dimension. CHROMATICS uses breakthrough ODS2 (Oil Delivery System) + Protein Extract Technology to deliver multi-dimensional 4D color deep into every strand for stunning, high shine color that’s 2x stronger vs. uncolored hair* And now, CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER joins the CHROMATICS family as a fashion-focused haircolor created for clients with 75% or more gray! • 2x stronger hair** • No ammonia, No odor • Up to 100% gray coverage • Multi-dimensional, 4D color results NEW CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER Age-Defying Permanent Color • 2x stronger & smoother hair** • No ammonia, no odor • 100% gray coverage for hair with 75% or more gray • Multi-dimensional, 4D color results • Pre-blended shades for easy application • Includes Argan Oil, Protein Extracts and Ceramides, plus antioxidants Acai and Vitamin E * Haircolor System with 20 Volume Oil in Cream Developer and Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo vs. uncolored hair treated with a non-conditioning shampooo **Leaves hair 2 x smoother than before coloring CHROMATICS CHROMATICS Prismatic Permanent Color HOW IT WORKS ODS2 (Oil Delivery System) is a breakthrough No Ammonia carrier system that revolutionizes the way active ingredients are delivered to the hair strand: 2. PROPEL 3. 2X STRONGER* A mixture of DYES, OIL and PROTEIN EXTRACTS surrounds hair’s cuticle ODS2 propels DYES and PROTEIN EXTRACTS into the cortex The hair strand is 2X STRONGER* and infused with MULTI-DIMENSIONAL COLOR CHROMATICS 1. SURROUND *Measured as resistance to brushing after applying Chromatics Permanent Haircolor System with 20 volume Oil in Cream Developer and Redken Hair Cleansing cream Shampoo vs. uncolored hair treated with a non-conditioning shampoo OTHER CHROMATICS PRODUCTS CHROMATICS Clear is the non-pigmented version of CHROMATICS that lets you create a variety of creative, corrective and customizable effects. It can be intermixed into CHROMATICS to personalise a Color or it can be used to remove color density or slight banding within hair color CHROMATICS CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer (10, 20 and 30 volumes) is the dedicated developer for CHROMATICS. Depending on hair texture and density, you may see from 1 – 3 levels of lift depending on the developer and how it is used together with chromatics. MIXING & PROCESSING MIXING RATIO COLOR :DEVELOPER CHROMATICS CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER Mix 1:1 Mix 1:1 OIL IN CREAM DEVELOPER LEVELS OF LIFT USAGE 10 volume Up to 1 Minimal Lift 20 volume Up to 2 Standard Lift/ Gray Coverage 30 volume Up to 3 Additional Lift 20 volume Up to 2 75-100% Gray Coverage MINUTES 35 35 SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS For modern, multi-dimensional gray coverage, formulate with the N or NW families For best results, use 20 volume CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer (No heat) FORMULATION 1. Determine your client’s natural hair color level. Remember to consider percentage of gray, hair texture, condition and hair density. CHROMATICS Beyond Cover is recommended for clients with 75-100% gray hair 2. Determine the target color (final level & tone) desired by your client 3. D etermine the undertone found at the target level (see Level System Chart) 4. S elect the CHROMATICS shade and volume of CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer needed to achieve the target color. FORMULATION EXAMPLES FOR LIFTING NATURAL PIGMENT: Natural Level: 5 light brown / 0% gray Target Color: Level 7 medium blonde with natural tones CHROMATICS Undertone at Level 7: orange Formula: 2 oz. 7N (7) CHROMATICS + 2 oz. 20 volume CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer FOR COVERING GRAY (using CHROMATICS): FOR COVERING GRAY (using CHROMATICS Beyond Cover): Natural Level: 4 medium brown / 50–75% gray Natural Level: 4 medium brown/50–75% gray Target Color: Level 6 dark blonde with soft golden tones Target Color: Level 6 dark blonde with soft golden tones Undertone at Level 6: red/orange Undertone at Level 6: red orange Formula: Mix ½ oz. 6NW (6.03) and 1½ oz. 6G (6.3) CHROMATICS + 2 oz. 20 volume CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer Formula: M ix 2 oz. 6Gi (6.32) CHROMATICS Beyond Cover + 2 oz. 20 vol. CHROMATICS Oil in Cream Developer CHROMATICS Desired Shade CHROMATICS N & NW SHADES Mix 45ml desired shade with 15ml N or NW 0-50% Gray 50-75% Gray BEYOND COVER (pre-blended) OR CHROMATICS N & NW SHADES Mix 31.5ml desired shade with 31.5ml N or NW 75-100% Gray TECHNICAL INFORMATION 1. ALPHABETIC & NUMERIC DESIGNATIONS CHROMATICS uses both alphabetic and numeric designation to describe each shade. Having both systems ensures that no matter which type of color designation you’re more familiar with, it will be easy for you to visualize the precise result of each shade. Primary Tone (VIOLET) NATURAL 1 BLUE/ASH 2 VIOLET 3 GOLD 4 COPPER 5 MAHOGANY/RED VIOLET 6 RED 7 GREEN Level 5Vb 5.25 CHROMATICS TRADITIONAL LEVEL SYSTEM CHART LEVEL DESCRIPTION UNDERTONE CORRECTIVE TONE 10 Ultra Pale Blonde Pale Yellow Violet 9 Very Light Blonde Yellow Violet 8 Light Blonde Yellow/Orange Blue/Violet 7 Medium Blonde Orange Blue 6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange Blue/Green 5 Light Brown Red Green 4 Medium Brown Red/Violet Yellow/Green 3 Dark Brown Violet 2 Darkest Brown Blue/Violet 1 Black Blue Secondary Tone (brown) 2. NATURAL AND NATURAL WARM SHADES Use Natural shades: • When you are covering but concerned about exposing warmth • If you need to mix a shade with your cooler reflects to ensure coverage, but you’re concerned about adding excess warmth Use Natural Warm shades: • If you’re worried about a flat result, to ensure coverage and add warmth to your end result • If you need to mix something with your warm reflect shades to ensure coverage, but you’re concerned about flattening the warm reflect CHROMATICS 0 3. TRADITIONAL LEVEL SYSTEM CHROMATICS is formulated with the traditional level system, rather than the American 10 level system, which you may be familiar with. TO REFRESH ZONES 2 & 3 WITH CHROMATICS OPTION 1: PULL THROUGH METHOD BEST FOR: CHROMATICS • Hair types with little to no porosity issues • Coarser hair types • Hair that has faded more than 1–1½ levels • Rebalancing strong, brassy warm tones HOW: Use the Zone 1 CHROMATICS formula and pull through to Zone 2 for the last 5–10 minutes of the processing time. Or apply a formula slightly lighter and warmer than Zone 1 the last 10 minutes; this formula may be mixed into the existing Zone 1 formula (always add an equal amount of CHROMATICS Oil In Cream Developer). 25 min. 10 min. OPTION 2: PULL THROUGH WITH CLEAR To dilute results, add clear to your pull through formula. OPTION 3: PULL THROUGH WITH SHADES EQ GLOSS OR CREAM BEST FOR: BEST FOR: • Hair types with little to no porosity issues • Coarser hair types • Hair that has faded more than 1 level HOW: After applying your Zone 1 CHROMATICS formula, add 1 oz. CHROMATICS Clear and 1 oz. 10 volume CHROMATICS Oil In Cream Developer to the remaining formula in your bowl. Apply to Zone 2–3 and process for the last 10 minutes at room temperature. 25 min. • Sensitized hair • Hair with porosity issues • Hair with loss of vibrancy • Hair needing a tonal rebalance Note: Shades EQ Gloss will provide a more sheer result compared to Shades EQ Cream. Both are acidic. HOW: Formulate Shades EQ to match the Zone 1 tone result. Apply to Zone 2 and process at room temperature for up to 20 minutes, while simultaneously processing CHROMATICS. If Zone 3 is present, dilute formula with Shades EQ Clear or reduce timing and strand test often. 10 min. Please refer to Express Fill chart 15 min. 20 min. CHROMATICS / SHADES EQ REFRESH CHROMATICS NATURALS ADJUSTING COOLS COOL BROWN & BEIGES REDS & VIOLETS NATURAL ASH/ ash .11 ASH/ blue .1 ASH/ violet .12 ASH/ green .17 ASH/ gold .13 IRIDESCENT/ gold .23 VIOLET/ brown .25 BROWN/ red .56 VIOLET/ violet .22 VIOLET/ red .26 RED/ violet .62 RED/ red .66 RED .6 SHADES EQ GLOSS REFRESH N T T V GN T+G V+G V+N RB V V+R R+V R R SHADES EQ CREAM REFRESH WN + NA NA NA NA NA NA + Gi V + Gi V + WN BR V V + BR BR + V RR RR CHROMATICS COPPERS GOLDS NATURAL WARMS WARM BROWN & BEIGES COPPER/ gold .43 COPPER/ red .46 GOLD .3 GOLD/ copper .34 GOLD/ red .36 GOLD/ beige .31 GOLD/ iridescent .32 GOLD/ mocha .35 BROWN/ copper .54 NATURAL WARM .03 SHADES EQ GLOSS REFRESH C G+C C+R G G+C G+C GB G+V G + CB or RB CB NB SHADES EQ CREAM REFRESH C C + GC CR GC + GI GC + C GC + R WB GI GI + BR BC WN CHROMATICS BEYOND COVER /SHADES EQ REFRESH CHROMATICS Beyond Cover COOL BROWNS & BEIGES COPPERS NATURAL WARMS WARM BROWN/BEIGES ASH/ gold .13 IRIDESCENT/ gold .23 BROWN/ violet .52 BROWN/ red .56 COPPER/ red .46 GOLD/ beige .31 GOLD/ iridescent .32 BROWN/ copper .54 NATURAL WARM .03 SHADES EQ GLOSS REFRESH T+G V+G V+N RB R GB G+V CB NB SHADES EQ CREAM REFRESH NA + Gi V + Gi V + WN BR RR WB GI BC WN HOT TIPS FOR THE PERFECT REFRESH • Always select a Refresh formula approximately 1 level lighter than the Zone 1 formula. • Try refreshing only certain strands to create a dimensional result, much like a highlighted effect. • Apply products with the same accuracy as the Zone 1 formula. • Watch the amount of brown added to the formula to prevent the ends from “browning out” over time. • Strand test to determine correct processing time. Evaluate each client periodically. Don’t assume the color has faded the same between each visit. You may need to make seasonal adjustments to compensate for sun exposure. • When rebalancing brassy, warm tones, the level of the solution needs to be the same level as the problem. CHROMATICS COPPER .4 CHROMATICS TINT BACK CHROMATICS EXPRESS FILL Use this two-step color technique when taking clients hair back more than two levels. Use this one-step color technique to refresh zones 2 and 3 that have faded more than 2 levels. Target Level Cool End Result Ash, Beige 9 - Very Light Blonde 8 - Light Blonde 8.3 8G 7 - Medium Blonde CHROMATICS 6 - Dark Blonde 5 - Light Brown 6.3 6G 4 - Medium Brown 3 - Dark Brown 2 - Darkest Brown 4.3 1 - Black Warm End Result Time Missing Undertone Target Level Cool End Result Warm End Result Ash, Beige Ab/Av/Ag/Ago/Aa/lg/N/Vr Gold Copper to Red G/C/R/Gr/Br/Bc/Gm 9 - Very Light Blonde 10.3 10G 8.3, 8.36 8G, 8GR Pale Yellow 8 - Light Blonde 10.3, 8.3 10G, 8G 8.36, 7.4 8GR, 7C Yellow 7 - Medium Blonde 8.3 8G 6.36, 6.6 6GR, 6R Yellow Orange 6 - Dark Blonde 6.3 6G 5.4 5C Orange 5 - Light Brown 4.3 4G 4.6 4R Red Orange 4 - Medium Brown 4.3 4G 4.6 4R Red 3 - Dark Brown 4.3 4G 4.6 4R Red Violet Gold Copper to Red 3 to 15 minutes depending on target level 3 to 15 minutes depending on target level 3 to 15 minutes depending on target level Pale Yellow 8.36 8GR Yellow Yellow Orange Orange 6.36, 6.6 6GR, 6R Red Orange Red 4.6 4R Step 1: Apply chosen tint back shade to Zone 2 and 3. Step 2: Develop for between 3 and 15 minutes depending on the target level. Step 3: Remove color and dry hair thoroughly. Step 4: Apply your final target shade to the roots and then directly to Zones 2 and 3. Step 5: Develop for 35 minutes. Step 6: Rinse color and shampoo with Redken Color Extend Shampoo. Missing Undertone Step 1: Mix your clients target shade as normal. Apply colour to zone 1 (Natural Hair) Step 2: Immediately mix 15ml of your chosen express fill shade (above) +15ml of 10 VOL Oil in Cream Developer. (These quantities are based on approximately 1/4 of a tube remaining in the bowl). Step 3: Add your express fill mix to remaining color in the bowl. Pull through immediately. Step 4: Develop for 35 minutes. Step 5: Strand Test often to ensure desired end results WELCOME TO SHADES EQ THE HAIRCOLOR THAT THINKS IT’S A CONDITIONER SHADES EQ UNDERSTANDING pH Benefits of aciD tecHnologY Benefits of aciD tecHnologY “An acid pH haircolor like Shades EQ is perfect for clients with virgin hair, or highly sensitized hair. As you can see from the charts below, acidic haircolor causes less swelling, and therefore less damage. The difference is especially pronounced on sensitized hair” Benefits of aciD tecHnologY keeps hair Naturally shiNy aNd coNditioNed Dr Cannell keeps hair Naturally shiNy aNd coNditioNed > Due to maintenance of lipids EFFECTkeeps OF pHhair ON VIRGIN HAIRof shiNy EFFECT OF pH ON SENSITIZED HAIR > Due to maintenance lipids aNd coNditioNed Naturally Importance of Acidic technology clear Shades EQ Alkaline formulas > When it is in its weaker state (wet or colored) supports > When it hairs is in its iNtegrity weaker state (wet or colored) > Gives>outstanding to(wet breakage When it is in itsresistance weaker state or colored) > Gives outstanding resistance to breakage Gives outstanding to breakage X 7 > Better>Xprotection from resistance further chemical (swelling) or mechanical (brushing) damage 7 14 > Better protection from further chemical 0(swelling) or mechanical (brushing)14 damage pH Level pH Level Swelling SHADES EQ Swelling supports hairs iNtegrity Alkaline of lipids > Due to maintenance Shades EQ supports hairsformulas iNtegrity 0 Better protection from further chemical (swelling) or mechanical (brushing) damage aNd With>No lift! aNd With No lift! No lift! BENEFITS OF aNd ACID With TECHNOLOGY Before sHaDes eQ EQ BEFORE SHADES Before sHaDes Before sHaDeseQeQ active Process of tHe aciD PH ACTIVE PROCESS OF aciD THE ACID pH active Process of tHe active Process of tHe aciD PH PH Wheat amino acids Wheat amino acids Wheat amino acids after sHaDes AFTEReQ SHADES EQ after sHaDes eQ after sHaDes eQ Shades EQ Shades EQ Shades EQ colorpigments pigments color color pigments withunique unique shine with shine with unique shine SHADES EQ SHADES EQ GLOSS EQUALIZING CONDITIONING COLOR Voted #1 Demi-Permanent Color by BehindTheChair.com, 2001–2012 SHADES EQ CREAM EQUALIZING CONDITIONING COLOR Voted #1 New Color by BehindTheChair.com, 2012 SHADES EQ COVER PLUS BRIGHTENING CONDITIONING COLOR CREAM SHADES EQ GLOSS SHADES EQ CREAM SHADES EQ COVER PLUS ›› No-ammonia formula ›› No-ammonia formula ›› No-ammonia formula ›› Acidic pH ›› Acidic pH ›› Mix of direct and oxidative dyes ›› 100% oxidative dyes provide maximum longevity ›› 100% oxidative dyes provide maximum longevity ›› Liquid consistency for traditional uses: glaze, refresh and correct ›› Refresh all Redken permanent haircolor ›› Rich cream consistency for more precise techniques, including lowlighting and color blocking ›› Rich cream consistency for more precise techniques, including lowlighting and color blocking ›› Up to 75% gray coverage with demi-permanent results ›› Blend 50% gray with a sheer result ›› Correct and add condition to overlylightened or damaged hair ›› Subtle brightening effect for more visible reflect ›› Refresh all Redken permanent haircolor ›› Maximum vibrancy with highly reflective shades ›› Blend 50% gray with a deeper result SHADES EQ This award-winning demi-permanent haircolor family provides healthy-looking, high-shine results with incredible conditioning and an amazing number of mixing possibilities. Featuring more than 95 shades in 16 families, plus Clear. OTHER SHADES EQ PRODUCTS CLEAR shades are unpigmented shades you can use alone to add incredible shine or with any other shade to dilute color intensity (refer to the "Dilution Solution" chart). SHADES EQ Processing Solution is the dedicated developer for SHADES EQ GLOSS. It’s a 2% hydrogen peroxide specifically formulated to maintain an acidic pH and stabilize viscosity. PRO-OXIDE Cream Developer is the appropriate developer for SHADES EQ CREAM and SHADES EQ COVER PLUS. SERVICE OPPORTUNITIES SHADES EQ GLOSS SHADES EQ CREAM SHADES EQ COVER PLUS SHADES EQ GLAZE ›› Enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or intensify natural or color-treated hair while harmonizing contrast ›› Tone pre-lightened or highlighted hair REFRESH ›› Refresh and renew faded mid-shaft and ends (Zones 2 and 3), while processing permanent color at the regrowth (Zone 1) ›› Restore color to highlights ›› Add color immediately following a Redken texture service, to restore any color loss that may have occurred ›› Not recommended CORRECT ›› Fill over-lightened hair before a tintback service ›› Correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones ›› Correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones ›› Harmonize tone from scalp to ends ›› Correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones ›› Harmonize tone from scalp to ends ›› Lessen banding DEFINE ›› N/A ›› Add dimension with lowlights ›› Color block and add contour with precise placement COVER GRAY ›› Blend gray without lifting the hair’s natural pigment ›› Blend gray with richer color and without lifting the hair’s natural pigment BRIGHTENING CLEAR ›› Enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or intensify natural or color-treated hair while harmonizing contrast ›› N/A ›› Deposit shine only ›› Dilute color intensity ›› Dilute level density ›› Blends up to 75% gray with demipermanent results* ›› Soften the natural base prior to a highlight service ›› Add reflect and shine to dull or faded color ›› ›› ›› ›› Soften the natural base Dilute color intensity Dilute level density Brightening effect MIXING AND PROCESSING MIXING RATIO COLOR: DEVELOPER DEVELOPER LEVELS OF LIFT MINUTES SHADES EQ GLOSS Mix 1:1 Shades EQ Processing Solution None 20 (up to 40 for gray hair) SHADES EQ CREAM Mix 1:1 10 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer None 20 (up to 30 for optimal gray blending) SHADES EQ COVER PLUS Mix 1:1 10 or 20 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer 1 20 SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS Process for additional 20 minutes at room temperature. Shades EQ Cream Clear: use alone for added shine or to lock previous color. Mix with other shades for less color deposit. Shades EQ Cover Plus Clear: use alone for added shine with a subtle brightening effect. Mix with other shades for less color deposit. GUIDELINES FOR GRAY HAIR Using an NB or WN shade in your formula creates a balance of dyes for optimum results on gray hair. SHADES EQ GLOSS SHADES EQ CREAM SHADES EQ COVER PLUS NB Shade WN Shade Up to 25% ½ oz. 1 ½ oz. ½ oz. 1 ½ oz. 25–50% 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 1 oz. 50–75% 1 ½ oz. ½ oz. 1 ½ oz. ½ oz. 75–100% 1 ¾ oz. ¼ oz. 1 ¾ oz. ¼ oz. Shade Blends up to 75% gray hair Choose a shade with a background using 10 volume Pro-Oxide Cream Developer (for maximum coverage use 20 volume) * The percentage of gray hair equals the percentage of NB or WN in the formulation YELLOW Level or Depth(06) 06WG MANGO ORANGE GREEN Tone (Warm Gold) RED Shade Name BLUE VIOLET THE COLOR WHEEL UNDERSTANDING THE LABEL SHADES EQ CREAM is a no lift, deposit only haircolor. Always consider the tone of the hair that you are starting with. Use the color wheel to counteract or enhance tones. The level of deposit of SHADES EQ Color Gloss is described with the numbers 01 to 09. The number 0 appears on each of the gloss as a reminder that SHADES EQ will not lift the natural pigment in the hair. The letters T, CR, B identify the tonal families. To counteract tones, select a shade with an opposite tonal value. Remember, opposites neutralize. To enhance tones, select a shade with a similar tonal value. SHADES EQ % of Gray FORMULATION EXAMPLES FOR SHADES EQ GLOSS: 1. Natural level: 5 light brown / 0% gray 2. Target Color: light golden brunette 3. Formula: 2 oz. 05G Caramel Shades EQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution FOR SHADES EQ CREAM: 1. Natural Level: 8 light blonde / 0% gray 2. Target Color: medium, warm neutral blonde 3. Formula: 2 oz. 07WN Chai Tea Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer TONAL FAMILIES SHADES EQ T Titanium, Countaracts Warmth and creates ultra-cool metallic tones on light to medium shades B Blue, Cools, Neutralises and minimises unwanted warm tones N Natural, To Neutralise unwanted warmth and create cool brunettes or ash blondes NB Neutral Brown Blonde, Produces balanced beige tones GB Gold Beige, Imparts golden beige tones G WG C A/AA Gold, Produces balanced, soft golden tones Imparts warm gold tones Adds rich copper tones Auburn/Auburn Accent, Adds balanced warm orange tones CB Copper Brown, Adds Amber Tones RB Red Brown, Adds cool brown red tones R RV V Red, creates vibrant cool red tones Deposits rich red violet tones Adds plum tones and diminishes yellows NA Natural ash, counteracts warmth, providing balanced, cool reflects. WN Warm Natural, Provides warm neutral results WB Warm Beige, Provides a balanced golden result with strong beige reflects GC Gold Copper provides golden tones with subtle hints of copper BR Brown red, creates cool brown red shades with violet tones FOR SHADES EQ COVER PLUS: 1. Natural level: 4 medium brown / 50% gray 2. Target Color: rich, cool brown 3. Formula: 2 oz. 4M Cool Mocha Shades EQ Cover Plus + 2 oz. 20 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer REDKEN LIGHTENERS LIGHTENERS LIGHTING THE WAY TO THE ULTIMATE BLONDE MEET OUR COOLEST LIGHTENER FLASH LIFT 20% FASTER* THANKS TO BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY LIGHTENERS NEW FLASH LIFT MAXIMUM POWER LIGHTENING POWDER MIXING AND PROCESSING ›› Flash Lift has a variable mixing ratio, which ranges from 1:1 to 1:2 ›› Redken’s first powder lightener to achieve up to 8 levels of lift ›› In a non-metallic bowl, use the calibrated Flash Lift scoop to ›› 20% faster processing time versus Up to 7 measure 1 scoop of lightener with either: ›› Conditioning pro-vitamin B5 for high lift without sacrificing hair quality »»1 oz. of developer for a perfect 1:1 ratio, ideal consistency for ›› Customizable for every client’s needs—from extreme platinum blonde open air, freehand techniques, allows for strong adherence and results or edgy, dramatic highlights maximum lightening power ›› 2-component system mixes with all volumes of Pro-Oxide Cream »»2 oz. of developer for a 1:2 ratio, ideal consistency for on-scalp Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 volume) techniques, allows ease of spreadability for full head foils and ombré techniques ›› When performing highlights using foil, use exclusively ref Soft Alloy 8079, 20µm or Soft alloy 1200 18µm MIXING RATIOS APPLICATION FLASH LIFT PRO-OXIDE CREAM DEVELOPER On-scalp 1 scoop 2 oz. 10, 20 or 30 volume Off-scalp 1 scoop 1 oz. 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume TIMING On/Off-scalp Application: Process at room temperature until desired lightness is achieved for up to a maximum of 50 minutes. DO NOT USE HEAT. DO NOT COVER HAIR. DEVELOPER Pro-oxide Cream Developer (available in 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume) has a super smooth consistency for easy mixing and application, and provides predictable performance for all types of applications. LIGHTENERS USING FOIL BLONDE GLAM CONDITIONING CREAM LIGHTENER MIXING AND PROCESSING ›Redken’s most luxurious conditioning lightener featuring Lumisilk Technology preserves the lipidic rate of natural hair and provides luminous shine and extreme silky condition, with a gentle fragrance ›Blonde Glam has a variable mixing ratio, which ranges from 1:1 to 1:3 ›› In a non-metallic bowl, use the calibrated Blonde Glam scoop to measure 1 scoop of lightener with either: ›Soft, rich consistency offers a smooth application with maximum control and can lift hair up to 7 levels »»1 scoop of developer for a perfect 1:1 ratio , ideal consistency for open air, freehand techniques ›2 formulas, Power Lift (which contains ammonia) and Ammonia Free, to meet all lightening needs »»2 scoops of developer for a 1:2 ratio ›2-component system; mixes with Blonde Glam Conditioning Cream Developer (20, 30 and 40 volume) »»3 scoops of developer for a 1:3 ratio, ideal consistency for on-scalp techniques LIGHTENERS Note: If the mixture thickens slightly in the bowl, simply re-stir with the specific Blonde Glam whisk. There is no need to add more developer. MIXING RATIOS APPLICATION BLONDE ICING BLONDE GLAM CONDITIONING CREAM DEVELOPER On-scalp 1 scoop 1-3 scoops 20 or 30 volume Highlighting foils 1 scoop 1-3 scoops 20 or 30 volume Freehand 1 scoop 1-3 scoops 20, 30 or 40 volume TIMING On-scalp Application: Process at room temperature until desired lightness is achieved for up to a maximum of 50 minutes. DO NOT USE HEAT. Off-scalp Application: Process at room temperature until desired lightness is achieved for up to a maximum of 15 minutes. DO NOT USE HEAT. DEVELOPER Blonde Glam Conditioning Cream Developer (available in 20, 30 and 40 volume) contains conditioning palm oil derivative, which combines with the white beeswax in the lightener to form Cire-Gloss for luminous shine on lightened hair. THE ORIGINAL. STILL THE BEST. 5 MIN. COLOR CAMO CUSTOM GRAY CAMOUFLAGE FOR MEN COLOR CAMO AVAILABLE IN 6 NATURAL SHADES! COLOR CAMO BLEND GRAY, YOUR WAY. 5 minute custom gray camouflage Featuring advanced technology, Color Camo camouflages gray hair in 5 minutes. Processing for 10 minutes or using darker shades will deliver deeper, darker coverage. AT A GLANCE • 6 versatile shades • Cool tonality with no visible lift • Easy application • Low maintenance, natural results COLOR CAMO BENEFITS ✓ Ammonia-free, permanent dye technology with demi-permanent results ✓ Gel-like viscosity adheres to coarse gray hair without dripping ✓ Darker color of formula increases visbility to ease application ✓ Fragrance is discrete for more pleasant application ✓ Quinoa oil and protein enriched formula helps strengthen hair and add healthy shine WHO IS IT FOR? • Clients who don’t want to cover gray hair completely but “camouflage” and blend it in • For best results, recommend color camo to men who have 50% gray hair or less SHADE COLLECTION COLOR CAMO shades are formulated with customized dyes for natural results. BEFORE COLOR CAMO STARTING RANGE (LEVEL)* AFTER COLOR CAMO ASH TONE (GRAY + BLUE/VIOLET) NATURAL TONE (GRAY + GREEN/GOLD) 5 MIN. 5 MIN. light (levels 7 and higher) (50% gray) light ash light natural medium (levels 4–6) (50% gray) medium ash medium natural 10 MIN. 10 MIN. dark ash dark natural LIGHT DARK dark (levels 1–3) (50% gray) *Always use color camo with 10 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer CHOOSE THE RIGHT SHADE FOR HIM • Determine your client’s natural level range: Light (levels 7 and higher). Medium (levels 4-6) or Dark (levels 1-3) • Select a shade in the same range as his natural color • Pick the tone you want to see: Ash= smoky; Natural = cool gold COLOR CAMO MEDIUM MIXING AND PROCESSING RETOUCH APPLICATION 1.Mix Color Camo with 10 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer in a 1:1 ratio in a tint bottle. Once mixed, product must be applied immediately to hair. 1. Repeat steps 1-5, applying to the re-growth area. 2.Start in the area where hair is the grayest—for most men it’s the temple area, top or hairline. Do not overlap with hair that has been previously colored. 3.For an all-over application, an applicator bottle is recommended for speed. For a targeted application, a detailing wand is recommended. Apply to dry or towel-dried hair at the shampoo bowl. Take ¼” or ½” partings and quickly apply the color—2 to 3 minutes is all you need! Avoid the skin as you work. COLOR CAMO 4.Processing time begins immediately upon finishing the application or after the first 3 minutes from beginning the application. Process for 5 minutes; for the dark range shades, process for 10 minutes. Color Camo processes at room temperature. 5.Shampoo and condition with the appropriate Redken For Men haircare products. DEVELOPER Pro-oxide Cream Developer has a super smooth consistency for easy mixing and application, and provides predictable performance for all types of applications—use ONLY the 10 volume with Color Camo. Note: After repeated services, any haircolor will get darker when applied to previously colored hair. Color Camo is formulated to remain natural-looking between services, if used as directed. If darker end result from repeated applications, you may only want to pull through the ends as needed for the last minute. 2. Rinse, shampoo and condition with the appropriate Redken For Men haircare products. NOTE: After repeated services, any haircolor will get darker when applied to previously colored hair. If ends are darker as a result of repeated applications, you may only want to pull through the ends as needed for the last minute. INTRODUCING REDKEN’S TEXTURE COLLECTION TEXTURE ALKALINE PERMANENT WAVES VECTOR PLUS TAURINE-FORTIFIED WAVE › Unique Taurine Technology evens porosity › Creates manageable body and volume from scalp to ends › For all hair types, up to 50% highlighted › Available in Original and Extra Body formulas TEXTURE ACID PERMANENT WAVES CREATIVE CURL CUSTOMIZED ACID WAVE › Extra gentle waving system › Creates soft, natural-feeling, bouncy curls › True-to-rod size › Available in Normal/Resistant and Fine/Limp formulas INNER SECRET CONDITIONER ACTIVATED WAVE › Patented process utilizes conditioner to help develop curl patterns › Provides soft, conditioned, natural-looking curls › For all hair types SHAPE CONTROL STRAIGHTENING SERVICE FOR PERMANENTLY SMOOTHED HAIR Shape Control is a 2-component system (reducer + neutralizer) formulated without formaldehyde that helps you create permanently smooth results while conditioning the hair. STEP 1: REDUCE STEP 2: NEUTRALIZE Shape Control Reducers allow you to reshape the inner structure of the hair. Shape Control Smoothing Neutralizer rebalances the hair to ensure optimum shape-locking results. SENSITIZED For hair that has been sensitized from chemical treatments NORMAL For fine to medium hair that has not been chemically treated RESISTANT For medium to coarse, resistant hair that has not been chemically treated All three reducers have a rich, creamy texture and are fortified with cationic conditioners to provide softness and shine, smoothing waxes for frizz taming and detangling, and dithioglycolic acid to minimize the risk of breakage. They also contain a specially developed odor-neutralizing fragrance for optimum comfort for both you and your client. 1.Cream formula for straightened results 2.Locks in sleek, straight results 3.Leaves hair smooth and conditioned 4.Use with Urban Smooth Safe Straightening or Cold Smoothing techniques TEXTURE THERE ARE THREE REDUCER FORMULAS TO CHOOSE FROM BASED ON HAIR TYPE: DISCOVER SMOOTHNESS THAT LASTS UP TO 13 SHAMPOOS!* NEW SMOOTH LOCK SEMI-PERMANENT IN SALON SERVICE thermal care for dry, unruly hair CHOOSE FROM 3 EASY SERVICES ULTRA STRIGHT FINISHING TECHNIQUE WHAT IS IT? • Gentle semi-permanent smoothing service • Provides smoothness that lasts up to 10 shampoos • Can be extended to 13 shampoos when used with Stay Sleek leave-in cream • Reduces daily styling time as hair is more manageable TEXTURE WHO IS IT FOR? • Clients with frizzy, medium texture, and natural to sensitized hair types • Clients with curly, wavy or straight hair textures • Clients concerned with frizz who want increased manageability, lasting smoothness and reduced styling time BEFORE AFTER SMOOTH WAVE FINISHING TECHNIQUE HOW DOES IT WORK? STEP 1 STEP 2 BEFORE AFTER CURL DEFINING FINISHING TECHNIQUE SMOOTH ACTIVATOR •C ysteine, a naturally occurring amino acid, gently relaxes hair’s curl pattern and loosens the hold between the disulfide bonds that give hair its shape • Create a loose, more elongated curl pattern or straighter hair depending on the natural texture + SMOOTH SEALER • Thermo-Active Polymer seals the fiber and forms a humidity-resistant barrier • Eliminates frizz and fly-aways • Locks in smooth, shiny results 1. Always conduct the Redken Principles of Consultation with your client 2. If you are unsure of hair’s condition, perform a strand test *Results achieved with semi-permanent Smooth Lock Service followed by at home use of Smooth Lock Shampoo, Conditioner and Stay Sleek leave-in cream BEFORE AFTER Smooth Lock Chemistry service: EXPRESS SMOOTH SERVICE INTRA FORCE GUARANTEED THICKER, FULLER LOOKING HAIR * IN 30 DAYS INTRA FORCE for all types of thinning hair * Cleanser, Toner and Scalp Treatment to be used together as part of a daily haircare regime for a minimum of 30 days. Limit of 1 kit per refund. Proof of purchase required. Valid up to 3 months after purchase date. See www.redken.co.uk for details. INTRA FORCE FOR ALL TYPES OF THINNING HAIR HOW DOES IT WORK? INTRA FORCE 3 3 3 ZINC ARGININE AMINEXIL® DETOXIFIES THE SCALP AND HAIR STIMULATES HAIR FOLLICLES PREVENTS HAIR LOSS IN SALON SCALP STIMULATE TREATMENT AT-HOME TRIAL KIT INTENSIVE AT-HOME TREATMENT INGREDIENTS KEY ACTIONS EASY STEPS AS FEATURED IN: INTRA FORCE ›› Natural thinning hair USAGE PRODUCT ›› Detoxifying shampoo gently cleanses ›› Helps reduce excess sebum and DHT ›› Promotes hair density and a healthy scalp environment ›› Daily use on damp hair Hair Advance restorative cleanser for hair and scalp STEP 2. Toner ›› Lightweight, nourishing toner detangles, moisturizes and strengthens ›› Helps replenish hair and scalp to prevent premature breakage and improve manageability ›› Daily use after shampooing ›› Natural thinning hair ›› Lightweight, fast-absorbing daily treatment energizes the scalp ›› Promotes hair density ›› Hair looks visibly denser, fuller and thicker ›› Contains AMINEXIL® - proven to help reduce the rate of hair loss ›› Apply to dry or toweldried hair daily ›› Spray directly on clean scalp and massage in ›› Do not rinse. Style as usual ›› Colortreated thinning hair ›› Detoxifying shampoo gently cleanses ›› Helps reduce excess sebum and DHT ›› Safeguards haircolor with UV filters ›› Promotes hair density and a healthy scalp environment ›› Daily use on damp hair ›› Colortreated thinning hair ›› Lightweight, nourishing toner detangles, moisturizes and strengthens ›› Helps safeguard haircolor with UV filters ›› Replenishes hair and scalp to prevent premature breakage and improve manageability ›› Daily use after shampooing ›› Colortreated thinning hair ›› Lightweight, fast-absorbing daily treatment energizes the scalp ›› Promotes hair density ›› Hair looks visibly denser, fuller and thicker ›› Contains AMINEXIL® - proven to help reduce the rate of hair loss ›› Apply to dry or toweldried hair daily ›› Spray directly on clean scalp and massage in ›› Do not rinse. Style as usual nourishing toner for hair and scalp STEP 3. Treatment STEP 1. Shampoo restorative cleanser for hair and scalp STEP 2. Toner nourishing toner for hair and scalp STEP 3. Treatment daily stimulating treatment for scalp intensive treatment for noticeably thinning hair In-salon service HAIR TYPE BENEFITS USAGE ›› For advanced hair thinning ›› For hair thinning related to stress or seasonal changes ›› Offers the highest concentration of Arginine for the most efficient action on thicker scalp skin ›› Targeted formula is recommended for hair thinning intensified by stress or seasonal changes and to kick start a thinning hair regimen ›› Apply before daily scalp treatment ›› Using the application tip, apply one dose to clean, towel-dried hair and scalp and thoroughly massage into scalp (hair may be damp or dry). Apply appropriate Intra Force daily scalp treatment ›› Do not rinse. Style as usual ›› Apply 1 dose daily for 6-8 weeks, or at least 3 doses per week ›› Follow this program 2-3 times a year, particularly in the spring and fall or as needed ›› For all types of thinning hair ›› Deep cleansing scalp treatment preps the hair for healthy hair growth ›› Every 4-6 weeks in salon ›› Contains NIACIN-E - to provide a cooling sensorial experience Kickstart backwash treatment INTRA FORCE ›› Natural thinning hair daily stimulating treatment for scalp FOR COLOR-TREATED THINNING HAIR BENEFITS ADVANCED TREATMENT FOR NATURAL THINNING HAIR STEP 1: Shampoo HAIR TYPE HAIR PRODUCT Like us on Facebook Facebook.com/RedkenUK Follow us on Twitter @RedkenUK For technical assistance please call: 0800 085 4956 GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. WWW.REDKEN.CO.UK MYREDKENMARKETING.COM