French version Media / Editorials EDITORIALS UNION & ACTION - BELGIUM - NOVEMBER 2009 03/2010 34 Ice-Watch: the world is running on Belgian time Nothing fazes Ice-Watch. The SME based in Bastogne in Belgium expects to sell one million watches next year. It sold 100,000 last October. How did it manage to break into a market that is considered to be saturated in just a few months? [Photo] Jean-Pierre Lutgen, a CEO who has created an incredibly successful global watch brand. “I worked in the promotional items sector, and particularly the promotional watch segment, for 15 years, with a company called Tonton Lulu,” recalls Jean-Pierre Lutgen, creator of IceWatch. “I had a degree in Public and International Affairs, but I had no specific promotional experience. However, I had a few months of freedom before starting my military service. I took advantage of them to launch my lapel pins. The trend passed and I wanted to find something else along the same lines – small, easy to transport and with high value-added. I unearthed some manufacturers in Hong Kong who were producing a small number of easily personalisable watches. That’s how the company moved into promotional watches. Big brands like Michelin and l’Oréal trusted us. We had three to four people working for us in the mid 1990s.” 03/2010 “Internet use became widespread and dealt us a heavy blow initially,” he continues. “We were known as a company that could bring new promotional objects to market very quickly. We realised that our competitors were ‘sourcing’ our products online. Basically, we were being undercut. How could we bounce back from that? Around 2004, we were selling silicon wristbands, which were phenomenally successful as they had been made popular by cyclist Lance Armstrong. We had shifted over 20 million in just a few months thanks to excellent search engine rankings “Our concept: change” Jean-Pierre Lutgen dreamt of moving from promotional items to retail goods, so he finally took the plunge. “I felt that there was potential,” he explains. The Ice-Watch brand was therefore registered in December 2006. “We had never found designing and manufacturing watches problematic, but we still had to break into the hyper-saturated watch market.” The gauntlet had been thrown down. “It wasn’t just a question of turning up with nice watches. We very soon set ourselves apart with a powerful concept. You know, a product is successful when it resonates with social values and when it has a strong identity. ‘Change’ is the social value of the moment. Consumers are happy to change their mobiles, and even their insurance company and doctor, whereas they were much more loyal in the past. We have aligned ourselves with this sense of change.” Ice-Watch is available at a reasonable price, the cheapest model being a mere €59. The aim is to encourage customers to buy several watches. “The Ice-Watch comes in a very wide range of colours and can be geared to people’s outfits. If you’re thinking of wearing a nice blue jumper, we have a blue watch to go with it. And our watches can also be geared towards your daily activities, whether work or pleasure. And because you can change your Ice-Watch like you would change your clothes, people start to collect them. We have created a box called a BeCubic, which can be stacked up and which represents the brand’s identity.” Creating a buzz with DJ David Guetta Although the watches are created and designed in Bastogne in Belgium by designers trained in Liege, they are manufactured in Asia. “We work in Belgium with a team of seven to ten people, depending on the period. We also have an office in Hong Kong, which employs three people. Everything else is out-sourced,” clarifies Lutgen. Ice-Watch is active in a globalised market and economy. “We have a presence in around 40 countries, but it has only been this way for a year,” specifies Lutgen. “We have been very successful. We sold 100,000 watches last October and it has reached a point where supply could become a problem. Our growth has been phenomenal. There has been a real buzz around the brand and celebrities have started wearing it. David Guetta, a famous French DJ, is seen wearing an Ice-Watch in his latest video, for which we provided some of the funding. This kind of visibility is very important, because our goal is to sell one million watches next year! Big markets are opening up to us. As an example, we hope to find our way into 700 jewellers and shops in Germany in 2010.” English version in Europe. We sold all of these activities, with the exception of the watches, to the Namur-based company Quatrième Dimension last August.” He may be conquering the world, but the SME director has not forgotten his roots. “I am very attached to my region and to Bastogne in particular,” concludes Lutgen, whose brother Benoît is a Walloon politician. “As for me, I keep my distance from politics. Just to be clear, I don’t have any political links with my brother. As for Bastogne, it’s an emotional choice. I would doubtless have been able to crack the market more easily in Paris or Brussels where decision making and meeting centres are based. Naturally, the internet has changed things, but the problem of business travel remains. It would be easier to live next to the airport, since I’m travelling all the time to go from one trade fair to another. But I prefer to stay in Bastogne.” Rodolphe Masuy BUSINESS CARD ICE-WATCH Avenue Mathieu 37R 6600 Bastogne Belgium Employs: around 10 people in Belgium T: +32 (0)61/21.71.00 info@ice-watch.com www.ice-watch.com UNION & ACTION - BELGIUM - NOVEMBER 2009 Media / Editorials BASTOGNE | WALLOON WATCH MAKING SUCCESS 35 TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 03/2010 36 Media / Editorials French version 03/2010 37 TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 Media / Editorials French version TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 03/2010 38 Media / Editorials French version For a few weeks now, the brightly coloured Ice-Watch or “Swatchified Rolex” with the original packaging has been the new darling of fashionforward consumers. And I bet you didn’t know that it was Belgian! | Mathieu Van Overstraeten 03/2010 “I only get four to five hours sleep a night these days!” Jean-Pierre Lutgen is completely snowed under – in just a few months, his Ice-Watches have become a real musthave. The figures speak for themselves: he sold 10,000 units in May 2009, 20,000 in July, 30,000 in August and he thinks that he may reach 50,000 in September. This growth has not been achieved solely by the French and Belgian markets, but also thanks to countries such as Japan, New Zealand, Columbia and Israel. The Belgian brand already has a presence in around 20 countries worldwide, and gains 15 to 25 new points of sale each and every day. Such success enables the Walloon SME to think of selling 500,000 to 1 million watches in 2010, although it has burst onto the rather conservative watch making scene as if from nowhere. Secret # 1 Design your product in Bastogne but produce it in China Ice-Watch’s international success is all the more surprising because the watch was designed in the town of Bastogne in Belgium where Jean-Pierre Lutgen – brother of the Walloon Minister for Public Works and Agriculture, Benoît Lutgen – has offices. All of the catalogues and brand presentation material was created in this small town in the Ardennes, and contracts with the various global partners are also managed from this base. Ice-Watch currently employs seven people in Bastogne and three in Hong Kong, but its staff numbers will doubtless increase rapidly if its success proves lasting. “In particular, I’m looking for a director who can work in partnership with me because it’s becoming difficult to manage everything myself,” says Jean-Pierre Lutgen. Given that Ice-Watches cost between €59 and €239 a piece, they cannot be made in Belgium. In fact, they are manufactured in China, in a factory in Shenzhen, using parts from Japan and Italy primarily. “Our business model is a bit like the one used by Ikea,” explains Lutgen. “They design their furniture and catalogues in Sweden, but most of their production takes place elsewhere.” It is also a bit like Apple, which prints “designed in California” but “assembled in China” on its iPods and iPhones. However, it was in Hong Kong that the Belgian entrepreneur discovered the watch that would go on to provide his lucky break. “The good idea was to break down this watch into ten personalisable parts,” explains Lutgen. “At first, it was with a view to making promotional watches, as I had been doing for 15 years, but I quickly realised that I was onto something and that it was also worth targeting the retail market.” Secret # 2 TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 English version Ice-Watch: the watch following in Swatch’s footsteps “It’s crazy,” confirms Marc Gosseau, from Promogo, IceWatch’s exclusive distributor in Belgium and Luxembourg. “Orders are flooding in from all sides; it just doesn’t stop! And we’re still only present in Wallonia; we have yet to move into Flanders, except for the Flemish town of Knokke, which was transformed into Ice-Watch City last summer.” Like Jean-Pierre Lutgen, Marc Gosseau had been working in the business gift and promotional items sector for years. However, following the success of IceWatch, the two men have put the rest of their business interests on the back burner so that they can focus all of their energy on the famous watch. “I have already seen quite a few fashion trends during my career, particularly for lapel pins and magnets, but I have not yet experienced a real boom like this one,” enthuses Gosseau. Media / Editorials The five secrets behind the success of a watch that started life in Bastogne 39 Ice-Watch has also had a few run-ins with Lego. The legal department of the Danish toy manufacturer asked Ice-Watch to stop selling its watches in boxes that look like large Lego bricks. “But I told them that they had more to lose than win by attacking us, because journalists and consumers love to side with small players against large ones,” states Lutgen. “Since then, I haven’t heard anything more. And in any case, Lego lost exclusive rights over its bricks in 2008.” In any event, this very original packaging has played a key role in the success of Ice-Watch, which has, in fact, patented it. The coloured bricks which contain the watches can be easily stacked up in shop windows, but also at home, encouraging customers to collect different models. Secret # 3 Pay attention to your brand identity, right down to the smallest detail “Ice-Watches sell well in all the shops where they are launched, but only if retailers follow the presentation instructions to the letter.” JeanPierre Lutgen is very pernickety about the way in which his watches are promoted in-store, taking his inspiration from proven strategies used by the likes of Apple and Ikea who have a very strong visual identity. Ice-Watches should always be presented against a black background, in a well defined colour order, and they should never be mixed with other brands. The company also encourages its retailers and partners to use its point of sale material as much as possible, in particular the large coloured display cases based on the famous Lego brick and made by the company Trabelbo, which is also based in the Ardennes. In addition to this, there are posters, bags in the brand’s colours and inflatable displays. All of these practices come directly from the promotional sector. To encourage retailers to present Ice-Watch products optimally – which generally has an immediate effect on sales because an Ice-Watch is often an impulse buy – the company even rewards partners who invest in point of sale material and local press conferences with higher profit margins. “We really designed Ice-Watch as a global concept,” explains Lutgen. “Our website, which was developed in-house in Bastogne, also plays a very important role, especially when it comes to gaining credibility abroad.” Secret # 4 Take part in the Mecca of the watch world “The financial crisis represented an opportunity for us,” explains Ice-Watch’s creator. This is not simply because consumers are more likely to buy a watch for €89 than a more expensive model, but also and above all because it was the withdrawal of other watchmakers that enabled the Belgian SME to acquire a stand at Basel-World, the largest international show in the watch industry, in March 2009. “It cost us €70,000 for ten days, which is a huge investment for a small company like ours, but Basel really was the international turning point for us. It was in Basel that we established that our IceWatches didn’t just appeal to a handful of people at home in Bastogne, but that they generated a lot of interest. TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 03/2010 English version Media / Editorials 40 Create a Swatch-style name and a Lego-style box The market is already awash with watches, so how did a small company from Bastogne manage to make a name for itself so quickly? First of all, it created a strong brand. Phonetically, Ice-Watch inevitably makes you think of the famous Swiss brand Swatch, which is involved in the same inexpensive, plastic watch market segment. In fact, the success of Ice-Watch is starting to get to the Swiss company, proven by the fact that it has just registered the brand iSwatch and no longer appears to be particularly satisfied with the coexistence agreement signed a few years ago with Ice-Watch following mediation by Gevers, a company specialising in brand registration. Swatch Belgium even prefers not to answer questions about Ice-Watch in order not to lend the brand an aura of importance it does not merit. Ouch! The company works with exclusive partners in each country, using a system that is not often found in the sector: it asks each partner to pay a minimum fee of $25,000 at the outset, enabling it to create a sufficient stock of watches in Hong Kong, whilst avoiding any cash-flow problems. Since Basel, the Wallonia-based company has taken part in 16 specialist trade fairs around the world. “AWEX (Wallonia Foreign Trade and Investment Agency) has greatly supported us, because it covers 50% of our trade fair participation costs,” explains Lutgen. “That said, we first had to convince AWEX that there was genuine Belgian and Walloon added-value in the company Ice-Watch because from the beginning, they were a little bit reluctant about the fact that our watches are made in China. However, in Asia it’s clear that we really promote the Belgian side of things, taking advantage of the country’s good reputation in terms of design.” 03/2010 Secret # 5 Convince the fashion press to rave about you Lutgen also believes that another key to success for an unknown brand is to get people to talk about you as if you As far as Lutgen is concerned, the enthusiastic response from women’s magazines has been so important because their target readership includes first and foremost fashion fans, and Ice-Watch is, after all, a fashion accessory as much as it is a watch. As a result, Ice-Watches are not sold only in watch shops, but also in fashion boutiques and design stores. “People are changing phones, insurance companies and even doctors more and more frequently, so why should they not change their watch depending on what they are doing? They could wear one watch to play sport, one to go out and one for work,” says Lutgen. “At our event in Knokke, we even had people buying ten watches at once.” But “fashion” and “hype” also rhyme with “passing trend”. Is there not a risk that the current enthusiasm for Ice-Watch will burst like a balloon once its time is up? “Swatch has been going for 20 years now, so why should we not do the same?” responds Lutgen. “We have a lot of ideas up our sleeves in order to avoid becoming yesterday’s news. Plastic offers so many possibilities in terms of design and colour. And there are still countries to conquer!” In other words, Lutgen is convinced that IceWatch can become one of the greatest Belgian success stories of the years to come. “It proves that Bastogne is a town where anything is possible,” he smiles. “You just have to show a bit of determination.” English version are a well known brand. Having said that, he still cannot get over the warm welcome his watches received from the Parisian press. “There were 67 fashion press journalists at our press conference, which is just crazy,” he laughs. He has created a file containing articles from the likes of Marie-Claire, Paris Match, Elle and Cosmopolitan. “In these articles, we were featured alongside big watch brands, giving us amazing leverage,” he smiles. One of the magazines even described the Ice-Watch as a “Swatchified Rolex”, which particularly tickled Lutgen, who does not hesitate to confirm that his watches provide “a hint of luxury”. [Photo – page 1] JEAN-PIERRE LUTGEN, ICEWATCH CEO “People are changing phones, insurance companies and even doctors more and more frequently, so why should they not change their watch depending on what they are doing?” [Photo – page 3] ORIGINAL PACKAGING The coloured bricks which contain the watches can be easily stacked up in shop windows, but also at home, encouraging customers to collect different models. TRENDS - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 Media / Editorials And it was also in Basel that we formed all of our contacts with international distributors.” 41 French version Media / Editorials LE SOIR MAGAZINE - BELGIUM - DECEMBER 2009 03/2010 42 A real Belgian phenomenon! Flashy little Belgian Ice-Watches are selling like hot cakes and are bang on-trend. [Photo] Coming in all colours and designed to suit all tastes, Ice-Watch is the timepiece of the moment. At barely two years old, it is still a baby in the popular watch market, but it is already putting others in the shade. Ice-Watch has even challenged the giant Swatch, with whom it has signed an international coexistence agreement. Indeed, its name, market niche and attractive low prices can lead to confusion with the Swiss brand. Ice-Watch is already more international than Belgian, as it is made in Shenzhen, just a stone’s throw from Hong Kong, and is already sold in 40 countries. Its sudden success intrigues and creates a desire for it. 03/2010 Just one man is behind this industrial and commercial adventure launched from Bastogne in Belgium. Jean-Pierre Lutgen studied Public Administration and Business at UCL in Leuven. Through his work in the promotional items sector, he had been involved with watches for a long time, although “this sector completely collapsed with the end of the business gift.” In 2007, this company director gave into his passion and invented Ice-Watch, a fun, inexpensive little watch that was achingly trendy. “The first few months were tough because we had to set everything up, including a business network, production and funding,” recalls 44-year old Lutgen. “At first, we This expansion has not just been left to chance however; it stems from a well thought out strategy. “Our strategy is based on three things: low prices starting from €59, without sacrificing quality; a wide range of colours; and the belief that people change their watch depending on their activity. In fact, people change their watch like they change their outfit or their mobile.” Once he had identified the method clearly, he had to put his money where his mouth was. And he did – 128 models, 13 collections designed by stylists, tailored packaging and boxes that match the brand and that appeal to owners of what has become “THE watch to be seen with”. Others have tried before him, but none have shared his success. In the 1960s and 70s, brands such as Lip and Kelton had already made brightly coloured, plastic watches popular. Thirty years later, Ice-Watch is blazing the same trail, using silicone and polycarbonate to suit modern tastes and lifestyles. ON TARGET FOR SALES OF 1 MILLION WATCHES IN 2010 “Everything stems from just one observation,” confides Lutgen. “Change is a social value. People want the latest model. They have become nomads. Our watches follow this trend; they fulfil the criteria for an impulse buy.” The watches, which are brightly coloured and let’s face it, quite similar to Swatch, benefit from well thought through support: they featured at Basel World, which is a Mecca for the world’s watch industry; are backed up by entry-level marketing; and have an attractive identity. “They also stand out because of their recent design,” claims their creator. He has carefully studied the recipe for success, designing collections in his own way. “Contrary to Swatch, we follow fashion not events. For example, we’re not designing a watch for the Olympic Games or a new 007 model.” Lutgen has understood that, in fact, good advertising and promotion are just as important as savoir-faire: Ice-Watch has enjoyed good coverage in fashion magazines and the DJ David Guetta wore one in his latest video. And the brand is going to offer even more options in terms of watch models and events. For 2010, launches have been announced for Ice-Swiss, which will be a more high-end watch made in Switzerland, as well as for Ice-Kids and Small. However, the biggest noise is being made about Ice-Club – a global event to promote the brand image. The stated aim for 2010 is to reach sales of one million watches. “The market is taking off,” notes Lutgen. “At the beginning, shops were unsure; retailers were talking about the financial crisis. And what’s more, the watch market is a very conservative market. But now, people are calling us! Galeries Lafayette has just set up a high-visibility stand, for example.” Ice-Watch seems to be set for a brilliant future provided that it can avoid becoming a fashion flash in the pan. In any event, it can take advantage of its creator’s passion. “I have always loved watches,” confesses Lutgen. “They require incredible attention to detail. They are works of art. For me, it’s a dream come true to be in the watch business.” He wears an ambitious yet modest, simple white model priced at €49. The perfect timepiece for our times. English version The time for success has come! were just selling a few thousand a month, but demand has since exploded. We are aiming at sales of 400,000 units in 2009!” Media / Editorials “WHATEVER IT COSTS” • Bernard Meeus. LE SOIR MAGAZINE - BELGIUM - DECEMBER 2009 43 PARIS-MATCH - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 03/2010 44 Media / Editorials French version Ice-Watch A Belgian Phenomenon These plastic watches are the darling of the fashion world and are selling like hot cakes. From the Ardennes in Belgium, they have become a global phenomenon. By Catherine Malaise In the Belgian town of Bastogne they still cannot get over it – a local SME is delighting the entire world with an ever increasing range of ultra-colourful, dynamic and affordable watches. Ten thousand were sold in May 2009, 30,000 in August, and 100,000 have been flying off the shelves every month since the beginning of 2010! “I would like to reach one million by the end of the year,” reveals JeanPierre Lutgen, company CEO. It may sound like megalomania, but this is not the case at all. The concept he dreamt up works so well that the market for the Ice-Watch is growing by the second. From Europe to Asia, and from Africa to South America and the USA, the brand reaches 15 to 25 new points of sale each and every day. It was available in 1,500 stores at the last count! 03/2010 This brilliant success stems in part from the universal and inter-generational nature of the Ice-Watch. And, in addition, everything has been done to create the irresistible desire to collect them. There are ten Although the eye-catching IceWatch plastic is developed in Belgium by company designers, production and assembly take place in Shenzhen in China. However, quality does not suffer and the watches do not feel plasticky. They are waterproof to 3 or 10 atm, have luminescent hands, come with a two-year warranty and boast a silicone, leather or polycarbonate strap. So what is Jean-Pierre Lutgen’s secret? He already had a network of trusted factories and partners in China because for 15 years he had been producing business gifts and promotional watches in the country. The basic principle behind Ice-Watch was originally developed for the promotional sector – “Break an existing watch down into ten parts that can be personalised depending on the client. I grasped the creative potential of this system and I decided to launch my own brand. After that, everything just snowballed.” Taking the bull by the horns Making his mark in a saturated market and taking on a famous Swiss brand specialising in plastic watches did not faze the boss of the small Belgian company. In fact, he has shown himself to be as determined, single-minded and stubborn as a mule. “Offering nice watches wasn’t enough. We had to give IceWatch a strong visual identity.” The name was already evocative – annoying Swatch who then registered the iSwatch brand – and the design followed. Instead of coming in a traditional box, the Ice-Watch is presented in a sort of polycarbonate Lego brick called a BeCubic. These boxes, which match the design, feel and finish of the watches they come with, are fun and can be re-used as piggy banks or trinket boxes. They can also be stuck together and built up against a black background. They are guaranteed to make an impact and are impossible to miss in points of sale and at the many trade fairs the brand takes part in, where they are even used to make furniture and display stands. Lutgen even dreams of equipping his company with a new building in the shape of a giant BeCubic! In the meantime, his team of designers is perfecting the stand for the March 2010 Basel-World Watch and Jewellery Show. Ice-Watch was lucky to be able to take part in 2009 as well when another brand withdrew and it received financial support from AWEX (Wallonia Foreign Trade and Investment Agency). www.ice-watch.com English version different styles – from the flashy to the discrete, for winter and for summer – and the watches come in a huge range of colours. It is fun to match your watch to your jacket, dress or tie, meaning that some people buy ten at once. And at Ice-Watch prices – €59 to €239 – why not? [Photo] Deluxe A nod to silicon-based luxury. The black Stone Sili has a gold rose surround studded with Swarovski crystals. [Photo] Guaranteed effect Each Ice-Watch comes with a matching BeCubic – a “Lego” brick that is essential to the brand image and that can also be used as a piggy bank or trinket box. PARIS-MATCH - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 Media / Editorials [Photo] The man of the moment Jean-Pierre Lutgen is up-beat about the future of Ice-Watch: “Plastic offers so many possibilities in terms of design and colour. And there are still countries to conquer!” 45 PAPER JAM - LUXEMBURG - OCTOBER 2009 03/2010 46 Media / Editorials French version A concept rather than just a product, Ice-Watch is a success story that is building a solid reputation for itself in the tough and competitive watch sector. Marc Vandermeir (text), David Martin (photo) “Before launching Ice-Watch, I was in the promotional watch business, particularly for big brands,” explains Jean-Pierre Lutgen, creator of the Ice-Watch brand and CEO of the company of the same name. “For a long time I had wanted to create a retail watch. I was able to draw on my experience, but although it was easy for us to design and manufacture a watch, marketing it and making a success of it was a challenge.” Two years ago, Lutgen discovered a plastic watch in Hong Kong, where he has an office. He had the idea of breaking it down into ten parts and allowing his promotional clients to reconstruct it to suit their needs. “We got great results, so we decided to launch,” he explains. It was a leap into the unknown. Promotional watches and branded watches for retail inhabit two completely different spheres. Nonetheless, he created a brand and presented his first collection in April 2008. Ice-Watch now has roughly 20 partners around the world, is present in over 500 shops and will be present in over 1,000 shops by the end of the year. 03/2010 So, why the name Ice-Watch? “It just went with the Zeitgeist. In the past, many company names used the word ‘sun’,” elaborates Lutgen. “Now, the word ‘ice’ has become a symbol of extreme purity and freshness due to global warming. And the name just sounded good.” “It is no longer enough to create a watch without a concept,” states Lutgen. Nowadays, all successful products are based on a concept, with the most well-established probably being ‘change’. “We created a watch based on the concept of change for three reasons. First, to enable us to offer a range of prices, starting at €59. Second, so that we could use a wide range of colours. And third, so that we could create collections geared to daily activities such as work, sport and going out. As people like to change their watch, we also hoped that they would want to collect them.” A COMPLETE CONCEPT It is a small step from collecting to tidying or displaying, thus each watch comes in a special box which can be stacked up on top of another one. The boxes always match the collection and form an integral part of the watches’ identity. “Each watch has an identity, for customers but also for shops, with windows and display units kitted out with the same collection, creating a real promotional talking point. It’s the same all around the world. It’s a complete concept, right down to the original little bag that the watch box is put in.” China. However, he stresses that they are made in a very high quality factory that also makes some prestigious brands. This enables quality to be guaranteed. Only the assembly is taken care of in China; the components come from various parts of the world – the straps from Italy and the movements from Japan. English version As far as Jean-Pierre Lutgen is concerned, the possibilities are endless. And as if to prove this, his company releases two collections a year. Among other things, the collections are based on colours that are in fashion that year. “We have also just registered a new brand, Ice-Swiss, which will be more highend. The reference to Switzerland obliges us to guarantee that at least 50% of production actually takes place in Switzerland. I don’t want to reveal what material it will be made from yet, but you can be sure that it will be innovative. We will present it next year in Basel and it will be distributed solely in the jewellery sector.” Everything else is created and designed in Belgium. “In all modesty, I would say that it’s like what’s on offer in the Ikea catalogue, or like an iPod and so many other similar products. The design, catalogue, point of sale service and website are taken care of here. The assembly takes place in China, where they do not have the design and marketing expertise. It would be impossible to manufacture the watches in Belgium for several reasons. However, all the value-added is Belgian.” And in fact, even more so than before because Lutgen has decided to have shop display units made by Trabelbo in the village of Marbehan in Belgium. “We couldn’t manufacture the watches in Belgium, but I wanted some of our out-sourcing to be Belgian and even regional. It generates revenue for Belgium,” stresses the entrepreneur. [Photo] “The assembly takes place in China, but the brand’s value-added is Belgian.” Jean-Pierre Lutgen (Ice-Watch). Lutgen makes no secret of the fact that the watches are produced in PAPER JAM - LUXEMBURG - OCTOBER 2009 Media / Editorials The world is running on Belgian time 47 FORWARD - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 03/2010 48 Media / Editorials French version 03/2010 49 FORWARD - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 Media / Editorials French version Telling the time in all the colours of the rainbow Media / Editorials In a little over two years, the new Belgian watch brand IceWatch has carved out a place for itself on the international market. Its creator, Jean-Pierre Lutgen, has struck on a simple yet successful concept: a design that is accessible to as many people as possible, attractive packaging and low prices that encourage people to start a collection. We caught up with him in Bastogne in Belgium to find out more about his small company that has set its sights on big things. 50 A t the end of 2006, Jean-Pierre Lutgen, CEO of the promotional items company Tonton Lulu based in Bastogne, Belgium, was wondering what direction to take his company in next. The arrival of the internet had caused the profit margins in his market to melt away like snow in the spring sunshine. When visiting Hong Kong, a plastic watch caught his eye, and he decided to allow his clients in the promotional sector to break it down and personalise it. “We realised that some creations are worth investing in, and we therefore decided to start out in retail.” Ice-Watch was born. “We created our first collection in April 2007. We didn’t know anything about jewellery and seemed like mavericks in this very conservative market. We took part in a huge number of trade fairs around the world.” In March 2009, Ice-Watch had the opportunity to take part in the Basel-World Watch and Jewellery Show – one of the most prestigious in the sector. “Thanks to the financial crisis and the withdrawal of certain participants, we were lucky enough to get a stand. Attending this show really had a trigger effect – feedback from professionals at the time was positive and we felt certain that we were onto something.” Going global International press conferences with the fashion press followed on from Basel-World. “Thanks to a very attractive communication campaign, we have been crazily successful! We have featured in magazines such as Vogue and Cosmopolitan alongside the biggest brands, giving credibility to our brand.” Ice-Watch has spared no expense in order to maximise its chances of success. “We have not just turned up with a new product, but with everything that goes with it, including the packaging, bags, brochures and point of sale material. Slowly but surely, jewellers have been won over.” Ice-Watch is a complete package that is based on the concept of building a collection. “The low price, wide range of colours and the fact that different Ice Watches are suited to different activities undertaken during the day encourages clients to buy more than one.” The company has therefore created packaging to promote this kind of collection – the boxes stack up on top of each other. “The packaging has become the brand identity.” “The goal for 2010 is to pass the one million mark and be present in 3,000 to 5,000 points of sale.” Jean-Pierre Lutgen adds that support from AWEX (Wallonia Foreign Trade and Investment Agency) and the professional network that he has built up, particularly in China, have also played a part in Ice-Watch’s success. “At the moment, all doors are opening up for us. Most recently, Ice Watch got a foot in the door at Galeries Lafayette in Paris!” And that is on top of the latest clip by famous DJ David Guetta in which he is seen wearing an Ice-Watch. Such success is also a relief for Jean-Pierre Lutgen. “What I was afraid of when we developed the product in our offices in Bastogne with just a few people, was the ‘group illusion’. We were convinced, but how was the market going to react?” There are now around ten people in the offices in Bastogne designing watches, and four people in the offices in Hong Kong dealing with distribution and coordinating watch production in Shenzhen in south-east China. “However, the biggest difficulty is still making our voices heard in order to increase Chinese production levels. Coming soon: high-end jewel FORWARD - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 03/2010 English version Ice-Watch increases the cachet of the plastic watch. Ice-Watch’s current concept targets a wide audience. However, in the future, the company would also like to reach a high-end clientele and is therefore working on a new brand: Ice-Swiss. “This watch will be designed, made and certified in Switzerland. As with Ice-Watch, we will have just one model presented in several ways, but in a higher price band. We will present the first model at the 2010 Basel-World.” • Florence Delhove 03/2010 [Photo] [Box on the right] “He will have to renew his collections even more rapidly.” Not a second wind but a tenth wind! Didier Bernardin, a French designer working in customisable furniture, also has a passion for watches. He recently designed a range of watches to be worn everywhere except on the wrist. The range is currently being developed and he has entrusted Jean-Pierre Lutgen with the distribution. “By discussing things and working together, we have both been able to improve our watches. Ice-Watch’s success is down to Jean-Pierre’s experience, his company’s creativity and his excellent use of existing methods of communication and distribution.” In Bernardin’s opinion, the main quality possessed by the Belgian CEO, who is also an art lover, is his flair for initiative. “JeanPierre is a real entrepreneur. Entrepreneurs are constantly improving; it’s in their nature. It would be wrong to say that he is enjoying a professional second wind; it’s a tenth wind! And there may well be 20 more.” So, does he have any words of advice? “Just like some ready-to-wear brands, he will have to renew his collections even more rapidly. I also think that he will have to refine the strong, original character of his products. And by character I mean the shapes, colours and symbols that define a brand.” Is he not afraid that it is just a fashion fad that will turn out to be a flash in the pan? “On the contrary! His watches are made from organic materials. Organic chemistry has the advantage of being able to offer more combinations and of being lighter and more effective. Introducing organic chemistry into watches is one and the same thing as introducing more variety. And what’s more, we live in a world that’s grey, black, white, gold and silver. Introducing colours is like introducing freedom. When they’re playing winter sports, for example, people put on colourful clothes!” English version Watches developed by JeanPierre Lutgen have made their way from Bastogne in Belgium to Galeries Lafayette in Paris and even to Hong Kong! [Text along the bottom] 1992: After studying Public and International Affairs, JeanPierre Lutgen sells lapel pins during his military service. 1995 – 2005: Lutgen works in the promotional items sector (Tonton Lulu). 2006: Lutgen discovers the watch that will go on to become the Ice-Watch in Hong Kong and launches a new concept in the promotional sector. 2007: Lutgen abandons the promotional market and turns his attention to retail. 2009: Lutgen takes part in Basel-World Watch and Jewellery Show, “thanks to the financial crisis and the withdrawal of certain participants.” FORWARD - BELGIUM - JANUARY 2010 Media / Editorials lery Ice Watch works with exclusive sales partners in around 30 countries. Besides online stores, the brand is available in 1,400 shops, including nearly 150 in Belgium. “We sold between 300,000 and 400,000 watches in 2009. The goal for 2010 is to pass the one million mark and be present in 3,000 to 5,000 points of sale. We know that two to three years of work lie ahead of us if we want IceWatch to be visible outside of capital cities and in countries like Brazil, India and Russia. Watch this space.” Up until now, the company has been financing its activities using its own funds and via a system of deposits from its exclusive partners. “It’s an unusual commercial system in the jewellery world, enabling us to respond both very quickly and gradually to changing demand, without having to fall back on external funds, even though we are expanding exponentially.” 51 French version Media / Editorials MADE IN LUXE - LUXEMBURG - DECEMBER 2009 03/2010 52 French version Media / Editorials 03/2010 53 MADE IN LUXE - LUXEMBURG - DECEMBER 2009 Véronique Blum PHOTO © JEAN-PIERRE RUELLE Media / Editorials Hailing from Luxembourg, the southernmost province of Belgium, Ice-Watch is set to become the leader of its sector. These ultracolourful little watches with perfectly formed packaging are becoming more popular with each minute that passes. How nice it is to be able to match our leisure activities, sports and trendy evenings out to the right watch for just a snip. Ice-Watch makes it mark every day by proving that it is ready to please by permanently adapting to our ever changing world. 54 Ice-Watch is a new adventure stemming from a concept initially developed for business gifts sold under the well known brand Tonton Lulu. The initiative came from Jean-Pierre Lutgen, son of Guy Lutgen, a former Belgian politician and brother of Benoît Lutgen, the current Walloon Minister for Public Works and Agriculture. JeanPierre Lutgen developed his idea to launch a fun, intergenerational watch in a full range of different colours presented in a matching box during his many visits to Asia. Before he knew it, the time had come for mass production – 10,000 last May, 20,000 last July, 30,000 last August and ever increasing numbers since! In less than a year, Ice-Watch has moved into 20 countries, with over 750 points of sale such as jewellers, design stores and fashion boutiques like Smets and Habillez-Moi. It is particularly popular in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, Belgium, France, Japan, New Zealand, Columbia and Israel. The brand estimates that sales will reach 500,000 or even one million watches in 2010. The brand was designed in Bastogne in Belgium but is now well established in Europe. Its creations exude European glamour and style, which is particularly sought after in South East Asia. The parts are sourced primarily from Japan and Italy, whilst assembly takes place in Shenzhen in China. Right from his first tentative steps in this protectionist sector, JeanPierre Lutgen has pulled off an amazing feat, propelling his quirky vision to the forefront, reinterpreting the classic by giving it a new lease of life and futuristic sex appeal, and adding a new chapter to the rich history of watch making. Tell us about yourself. Jean-Pierre Lutgen: Grandson of Auguste Lutgen, son of Guy Lutgen and father of Oscar, Jeanne and Mathilde Lutgen. I studied Public and International Affairs at the Université Catholique de Louvain (Belgium). I founded the company Tonton Lulu just after finishing my military service. We sold lapel pins and promotional items such as Kinder Surprises and watches. We were renowned for being able to launch new items onto the market very rapidly. The arrival of the internet in 2000 damaged our market. Five years ago, in order to counter this, we opened an office in Hong Kong, looking constantly for good prices. At the time, silicone wristbands were selling well because we offered a range of bright colours that matched our clients’ specifications at tempting prices. I thought about it in more depth, wondering whether we could break a watch down into ten parts so that we could choose various colours for things like the casing and strap. As we had been producing tailormade products for a number of years, I will just MADE IN LUXE - LUXEMBURG - DECEMBER 2009 03/2010 English version ICE-WATCH A SUCCESS STORY FOR LUXEMBOURG 03/2010 With the name that you’ve chosen, are you not treading a path that could cause you problems with the giant Swatch Group? Jean-Pierre Lutgen: It’s true that the way our Ice-Watch brand sounds clearly bothers Swatch, so we have signed an international coexistence agreement. We always have to write our name using two words, and the Swiss manufacturer has just registered the brand iSwatch, which is very close to the brand we have registered! In the 1980s, the Swiss brand was a big player in the entry level sector, but this is not really the case any more, and in any case, English version we manufacture Ice-Watch primarily in China. To reincorporate the Swiss aspect, we have registered another brand called Ice-Swiss, so that we can unveil a new product at the 2010 BaselWorld Watch and Jewellery Show, at least if we find the time to develop it! Did you take part in the last Basel-World, and if so, what kind of welcome did your competitors give you? Jean-Pierre Lutgen: Yes, we were lucky enough to be able to go. It cost us €70,000 for ten days! It was a very important step for us, because we were able to test our products and see how people reacted to them. It turned out to be a very positive experience. The press were very enthusiastic. Our competitors, on the other hand, did not really understand our approach or our success. Some even found it amusing. MADE IN LUXE - LUXEMBURG - DECEMBER 2009 Media / Editorials give one client as an example – Michelin Formula 1. As I had been fascinated by the retail sector for a long time, I thought that I should create a genuinely off-beat product that was different to the others, and that this would be a good market niche to enable us to bounce back. Hence the coloured, reasonably priced watch that can be geared to your activities and that you can collect thanks to its fun, stackable packaging. We thought that this niche would be worthwhile, as a watch is a fashion accessory, a badge of identity and an impulse buy. 55 HEURE - SWITZERLAND - NOVEMBER 2009 03/2010 56 Media / Editorials French version English version ICE-WATCH: OVER THE RAINBOW [Photo] Ice-Watch provides an explosion of colour. Media / Editorials Last April, the Ice-Watch stand made a splash at Basel-World Watch and Jewellery Show, which is a good sign, because when a concept attracts attention like that, it is because it has aroused people’s interest. Another positive point is that Jean-Pierre Lutgen, founder of the brand and CEO of the company, even surprised a few visitors, who were a little too curious to be simple amateurs, looking at his watches. In fact, they had been sent specially by Swatch to investigate this troublemaker bent on challenging them, because this stubborn Belgian entrepreneur is competing in the same league – that of plastic watches that can be customised at will according to fashion and trends. Although he has not invented a new genre with his “plastic Rolexes”, he has breathed new life into it with a range of cool colours. And what is more, just like Swatch, he has focused on quality – chic design, Japanese quartz movements by Miyota, wellmade plastic, meticulous finishings and original packaging. And the watches are available for the reasonable price of €59 for small models and €80 for larger ones. All of this means that Ice-Watch certainly provides a hint of luxury. And the result is success, and quite a lot of success at that. “BaselWorld gave us a real boost to continue with our launch in Hong Kong,” says Jean-Pierre Lutgen happily. 03/2010 57 HEURE - SWITZERLAND - NOVEMBER 2009 French version Ice-Watch – a success story that is building a solid reputation for itself in the watch sector. Jean-Pierre Lutgen has created an entire concept. Media / Editorials Before launching Ice-Watch, JeanPierre Lutgen was involved with promotional watches. “For a long time I had wanted to create a retail watch,” he confides. “I was able to draw on my experience, but although it was easy for us to design and manufacture a watch, marketing it and making a success of it was a challenge.” 58 Two years ago, he discovered a plastic watch in Hong Kong. He had the idea of breaking it down into ten parts and allowing his promotional clients to reconstruct it to suit their needs. “We got great results, so we decided to launch,” he explains. With quality given priority, the brand Ice-Watch was created and a collection was presented for the first time in April 2008. Ice-Watch can now be found all over the world and for Jean-Pierre Lutgen, the possibilities are endless. And as if to prove this, his company releases two collections a year. Among other things, the collections are based on colours that are in fashion that year. “We have also just registered a new brand, Ice-Swiss, which will be more high-end. The reference to Switzerland obliges us to guarantee that at least 50% of production actually takes place in Switzerland. It will be made from innovative material and distributed only in the jewellery sector,” he explains. Nowadays, all successful products are based on a concept, with the most well-established probably being ‘change’. “We created a watch based on the concept of change for three reasons. First, to enable us to offer a range of prices, starting at €59. Second, so that we could use a wide range of colours. And third, so that we could create collections geared to daily activities such as work, sport and going out. As people like to change their watch, we also hoped that they would want to collect them.” And it is a small step from collecting to tidying or displaying. Each watch comes in a special box which can be stacked up on top of another one. The box matches the watch it comes with and forms an integral part of its identity. They also create a brand identity in shops, as windows can be kitted out with matching boxes, creating a real promotional talking point. “It’s a complete concept, right down to the very original little bag that the watch box is put in,” explains Lutgen. Lutgen makes no secret of the fact that the watches are produced in China. However, he stresses that they are made in a very high quality factory that also makes some prestigious brands. Only the assembly is taken care of in China however; the components come from various parts of the world. Furthermore, everything is created and designed in Belgium. “In all modesty, I would say that it’s like what’s on offer in the Ikea catalogue, or like an iPod and so many other similar products. The design, catalogue, point of sale service and website are taken care of here. All the value-added is Belgian.” And in fact, even more so than before since Lutgen has decided to have shop display units made by Trabelbo in the village of Marbehan in Belgium. “We couldn’t manufacture the watches in Belgium, but I wanted some of our out-sourcing to be Belgian and even regional. It generates revenue for Belgium,” concludes Lutgen. Marc Vandermeir LIBRE ENTREPRISE - BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 2009 03/2010 English version The world is running on Belgian time