CONTENTS
Acknowledgements
List of Figures
Introduction
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1
Chapter 1. Beginnings: Palaeolithic and Neolithic
A. Introduction
B. Textile impressions
C. Weaving implements
D. Neolithic figurines
E. Conclusions
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Chapter 2. Dress in Early Bronze Age Greece and Prepalatial Crete
A. Textiles, weaving and sewing implements, and attachments
B. Decorated anthropomorphic vessels
C. The figurines
D. Conclusions
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11
13
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Chapter 3. Minoan Middle Bronze Age Dresses with Egyptian and Near Eastern Comparanda
A. The Minoan peak-back robe
1. The Corpus
2. Distribution of the peak-back robe
3. Dating of the peak-back robe
4. Previous scholarship and interpretations
5. Stylistic evaluation
6. Egyptian comparanda: the bag tunic
7. Near Eastern comparanda and replications: the tunic of Ishtar
8. Peak-back robe replications
B. The high-neck (peak-back?) robe
C. The Minoan double-V-necked dress
D. The petaloid loop “garment”
E. Cloaks and wraps
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Chapter 4. Late Bronze Age Dresses
A. The Minoan open front dress
1. Bands
2. Warp-weighted loom
3. Seams
4. Linear B texts
5. Fabrics
6. Previous scholarship
7. Experimental replications of the Minoan dress (heanos) with open front
a. The Snake Goddess, Knossos, HM 65
b. Crocus Gatherer, Thera
c. Veiled Maiden, Thera
d. Crocus Basket Emptier, Thera
e. Necklace Bearer, Thera
f. Crouching Woman (goddess), Hagia Triada
g. Ivory Triad figure, Mycenae
h. Fragmentary figure, House of Ladies, Thera
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CONTENTS
8. Experimental replications of the Minoan dress (heanos)
with partly closed front
a. Kneeling figure, Hagia Triada
b. Miniature Girl, Mycenae
c. Bucket Carrier and Lyre Player, Hagia Triada Sarcophagus
d. Bending Lady, Thera
e. Wounded Lady, Thera
f. Open front dress covering the breasts: the Mykenaia
9. Decorative motifs and fragmentary upper and lower dress parts
B. The Mycenaean tunic with horizontal neckline
1. Corpus
2. Experimental reconstruction of Camp Stool Banqueter, Knossos,
and replication of tunic with horizontal neckline
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Chapter 5. The Flounced Skirt
A. Near Eastern flounced garments and their appearance in Crete
B. The Minoan flounced skirt
1. Minoan flounced skirt
2. Minoan flounced skirt: fastened in front
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Chapter 6. The Flounced Kilt
A. Introduction: the Minoan flounced kilt
B. Experimental replications of the flounced kilt
1. Crouching Woman (“goddess”), Hagia Triada
2. Ivory Triad, Mycenae
3. Crocus Basket Emptier, Thera
4. Bending Lady, Thera
5. Necklace Bearer, Thera
6. Crocus Gatherer Thera
7. Veiled Maiden, Thera
C. Flounced kilts in Crete from MM IIIB to LM IB
1. Wall paintings
a. Sacred Grove and Grandstand, Knossos
b. Procession, Knossos
c. Lady B, Pseira
d. Dancing Lady, Knossos: reconstruction
2. Glyptic
3. The Phaestos Disk
D. The Minoan flounced kilt in Mainland Greece
1. Wall paintings
a. The Mykenaia, Cult Center, Mycenae
b. Seated “goddess,” Cult Center, Mycenae
c. Staff Bearer, Citadel House Fresco, Mycenae
d. Processional Women, Tiryns
e. Processional Women, Pylos
2. Varia
3. Mainland glyptic
E. Four Minoan flounced kilts in the Cyclades (Thera)
F. The Minoan flounced kilt outside the Aegean
1. Egypt
2. Syria
G. The male kilt
H. Conclusions
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Chapter 7. The Side-Pleated Skirt
A. The corpus
B. Dating of the side-pleated skirt
C. Construction of the side-pleated skirt
D. Experimental replications of the side-pleated skirt
E. Conclusions
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Chapter 8. The A-shaped and Hide Skirts
A. A-shaped skirts
1. Faience A-shaped skirts, Knossos
2. A-shaped skirts on seals, sealings and wall paintings
3. Constructions
4. Replication of skirt of HM 64
B. Hide skirts
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Chapter 9. Accessories
A. Mantles and cloaks
B. Hand-held mantles, shawl
C. Shoulder-fastened mantles
1. Recreation of mantle of “Camp Stool Banqueter,” Knossos
2. Replication of mantle of Harvester Vase Leader , Hagia Triada
3. Comparanda from the Near East and Egypt
D. Long cloaks
E. Short cloaks
F. Bolero (frontless blouse)
1. Replication A
2. Replication B
3. Reconstruction of Bolero on Pylos fresco
G. Scarves
H. Aprons
1. Replication A: HM 65
2. Replication B: HM 65
3. Replication C: HM 64
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Chapter 10. Conclusions
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Bibliography
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