The Volume XXIV, Issue 4 ~ Summer 2014 Published by THE TURKEY FARM, New Sharon, Maine They’re not as numb as you may have heard By Bob Neal Consider the lowly Turkey. Like Rodney Dangerfield, it gets no respect. Would that I could count the number of conversations over the past 29 years that have included utterances — always by the other party, not by me — about the stupidity of Turkeys. True enough, as another Turkey grower in Maine once told the Bangor Daily News, no Turkey will ever be a Rhodes Scholar. But they’re not as numb as you may have heard. Herewith, the case for the lowly Turkey. The most common myth about Turkeys is that they are so numb that they stand in the rain, look up at the sky with their beaks open and drown as the rain swamps their gullets. I have raised more than 70,000 Turkeys since 1986, and I have never seen this happen. And I have spent many an hour in the rain working with the Turkeys, so I should have seen it if it had happened. Still, the myth persists, even advanced by another Turkey farmer in Maine who swears it is true. But he raises his Turkeys indoors, so how could he have seen this happen? My explanation to anyone who asks about this myth is that Turkeys drink by dipping their beaks into water, then raising their heads so the water drains down their throats. That makes it pretty unlikely they would drown. Maybe they just like clean rainwater. A similar and related myth is that the modern Turkey doesn’t know enough to stop eating, so it grows so fat it cannot stand on its own two drumsticks. ’Course, you don’t have to hang out around a fast-food joint long before you see humans who look like that. This myth, unlike the previous, does stand on truth, a bit. The modern Turkey has been bred up in size dramatically. Since Turkey breeders — they are called integrators in the Turkey business, and only a handful are left — began crossing Turkeys in 1938 to produce all-white birds with more meat, the average market weight of tom Turkeys has more than doubled, while the time taken to grow them to market weight has been reduced by half. (We argue the time-to-market part has been overdone, and that one reason our Turkeys taste so much better than Turkeys from a warehouse that you buy at the store is that we ease that growth by free-ranging our birds. That means they walk off some of their feed and that their muscle tissue is firmer because it isn’t all puffed up with antibiotics that hold water in the birds’ bodies.) This Turkey breeding, by the way, does not involve genetic engineering. As with most plant breeding, the best specimens of each crop have been selected to propagate. Toms have been selected for size and fast weight gain and hens have been selected for high egg laying capacity. In 76 years of breeding roughly two generations a year, that has meant a tremendous increase in size and a tremendous decrease in growing time. And, as with so many species, including ours, so long as the food is there, the Turkeys will eat. (Continued on page two) The Turkey Times ~ Summer 2014 Page 2 Published by The Turkey Farm Some myths that just ain’t so about Turkeys (Continued from page one) The burden is on the Turkey grower not to let the birds get so heavy they cannot stand. Economics is a wonderful tool to help us keep our birds svelte. Turkeys eat 10 percent of their body weight every day. Imagine for a moment if humans could do that. Anyhow, with grain costing 19 to 29 cents a pound, it doesn’t take a rocket surgeon to figure out that a Turkey weighing 40 pounds will eat a dollar’s worth of feed every day just to maintain his body. If he eats any more than that, he will gain weight. That 40-pound bird will dress about 30 pounds. With those numbers, we make less profit on a bird that dresses 30 pounds than we do on a bird that dresses 15 pounds. We have no economic incentive to let birds get that large. And growers who give a damn about animal welfare, as we do, won’t let birds get so large as to endanger their mobility and ability to live healthily. We can do that in two ways. We can schedule slaughters while the birds are too young to have become that heavy. Or, we can put birds on a maintenance diet that reduces the protein and increases the energy in their feed. We do both, slaughtering birds for processing early in the season — we began our 2014 slaughters on June 16 — and some years, when the weather favors fast weight gain, we have to put our most senior Turkeys, those hatched in May, onto a maintenance diet so they don’t get too heavy for Thanksgiving tables. The maintenance diet lets them maintain their body weight and health but it discourages the growth of more meat. Unfortunately, it creates a bit more fat, but we can remove much of that when we slaughter the birds. We are most likely to agree with myths about Turkey stupidity when we consider birds that have escaped their pens and are difficult to herd back through the gate. If ever I mutter about their IQs, that is the time. But after 28 years of raising Turkeys that can wriggle through a slight space to freedom and then rounding them up for the return trip home, I have concluded that it is memory and eyesight, not stupidity, that makes them run past an open gate time and again. When we humans round up escapers, we drive them toward a gate we have opened. But the Turkeys remember where they found the break in the fence and they head for that spot to get back to the free food and water. That makes the chase between human and Turkey sometimes comical (to other humans, not to the humans who do the chasing). The Turkeys, significantly lower to the ground, run along the fence line looking for the space through which they had earlier wriggled. Their poor close-up vision means they sometimes don’t see the hole. The humans run behind, trying to catch up and drive them to the gate or pick them up and toss them over the fence. Eventually, all return to their fenced ranges and the humans go home for the night. But the chase is the thing. The thing that makes Turkey and human alike look pretty stupid. A fourth myth is Turkey eggs. Customers often assume that Turkey eggs are larger and fattier than chicken eggs. They assume that we eat Turkey eggs and that we might offer them for sale. We don’t, and we don’t. To begin with, many of our hens do not reach egg-laying age before they go to market. Sexual maturity among poultry comes along at 22 to 24 weeks of age. We begin dressing hens at 17 weeks of age, toms at 19. Most are gone before 28 weeks. (It is a somewhat sad fact that virtually no meat animals reach sexual maturity. Almost all are slaughtered before the hormones of reproduction kick in. Thus, a whole separate branch of animal agriculture has grown up around the development and maintenance of breeding animals so we can keep the flocks and herds coming.) Those of our hens that reach sexual maturity will indeed lay eggs. But since we don’t provide nests, they will lay anywhere they can find a little depression in the ground or a little privacy. When we come upon an egg or three on range, we have no way of knowing how long it has lain there. We throw those eggs into our compost. We do know that those eggs were not fertile. Through selective breeding, the integrators have made Turkeys so large that the birds cannot mate naturally. Without getting too graphic, I can tell you that Turkey mating is difficult at best. Toms that weigh 40 pounds cannot mount hens that weigh 20. If you want to get graphic about Turkey mating, look up Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver. Her chapter on the breeding of her heritage Turkeys is complete and hilarious. Just so we’d know what we are talking about, we have eaten Turkey eggs when we were sure the eggs were fresh. The egg is about the size of a chicken egg and is usually a bit speckled. To our taste, it is a bit richer but not fattier than a chicken egg. No one has developed a market for Turkey eggs because Turkey hens of great fertility — the Fertile Fannies of the Turkey world — will lay about 84 eggs a year. A chicken hen will lay nearly an egg every 24 hours for eight to 10 months. And, Turkey eggs have a very hard shell, so they don’t open easily. It seems almost impossible to crack one without getting shell fragments into the egg before you cook it. So, next time you hear someone talk about the stupidity of Turkeys or about how they compare with other critters in one context or another, be skeptical. Ask about the person’s credibility in regard to Turkeys. I think my street (or barnyard) creds with Turkeys are pretty good, and this is what I have observed in respect to these four myths about Turkeys. The Turkey Times ~ Summer 2014 Page 3 Turkey-Quinoa Meatloaf Recipes Cranberry Crusted Cutlets 4 2 Tbsp. 3/4 cup 1/4 cup 1/2 cup breast cutlets Dijon mustard breadcrumbs cranberries, chopped scallions, chopped 2 Tbsp. 2 Tbsp. 2 tsp. butter, melted fresh thyme, (2 tsp. dried), chopped grated lemon peel salt and pepper to taste Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Season cutlets with salt and pepper. Rub a layer of mustard over each cutlet. Put onto a greased baking sheet. In a medium bowl, combine breadcrumbs, cranberries, scallion, melted butter, thyme and lemon peel. Mix well. Season to taste. Spread mixture evenly over cutlets. Bake for about 25 minutes or until no pink remains at the center of the cutlets. Serves four. Adapted from Zorba Paster on Your Health Wisconsin Public Radio Turkey Pumpkin Chili 1 Tbsp. 1 cup 1/2 cup 1/2 cup 1 clove 1 lb. 1 can (20 oz..) 2 cups 1 Tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 cup 1/2 cup Published by The Turkey Farm olive oil onion, chopped green sweet pepper, chopped yellow sweet pepper, chopped garlic, minced ground Turkey diced tomatoes pumpkin puree chili powder ground black pepper cheddar cheese, shredded sour cream dash salt In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion, green and yellow peppers and garlic until tender. Stir in the ground Turkey and cook until evenly browned. Drain and mix in tomatoes and pumpkin. Season with chili powder, pepper and salt. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Serve topped with cheddar cheese and sour cream. Serves four. Adapted from allrecipes.com 1/4 cup 1/2 cup 1 tsp. 1 1 1 1/2 lbs. 1 Tbsp 1/2 Tbsp. 2 Tbsp. 1 1 1/2 tsp. 1 tsp. 2 Tbsp. 2 tsp. 1 tsp. quinoa, rinsed water olive oil small onion, chopped large clove garlic, minced ground Turkey tomato paste Tabasco or other hot sauce Worcestershire sauce egg salt ground black pepper brown sugar Worcestershire sauce Water salt and pepper to taste In a sauce pan over high heat, bring the quinoa and water to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the quinoa is tender and the water has been absorbed., about 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside to cool. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook, stirring, until the onion has softened and turned translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Remove from heat to cool. Stir the Turkey, cooked quinoa, onions, tomato paste, Tabasco or other hot sauce, 2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce, egg, salt and pepper in a large bowl until well combined. The mixture will be very moist. Shape into a loaf on a foil-lined baking sheet. Combine the brown sugar, 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce and 1 tsp. water in a small bowl. Rub this paste over the top of the meatloaf. Bake in the preheated oven until no longer pink in the center, about 50 minutes. It should read at least 160 degrees. Let the meatloaf cool for 10 minutes before slicing and serving. Serves four. Adapted from allrecipes.com How to get our ‘stuff ’ We like direct marketing. This time of year you can find us marketing directly at three farmers markets and at the farm. We sell from 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays at the Crystal Spring Farmers Market on Pleasant Hill Road in Brunswick. We sell from 8:30 until noon on Saturdays at the Bath Farmers Market in Waterfront Park. We sell from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. Saturdays at the Skowhegan Farmers Market on Court Street beside the Somerset Grist Mill. Our farmstore is on Route 27 in New Sharon. Hours are 2 to 6 p.m. Wednesday and Friday and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday. The farmstore is also open by chance, and someone is on the farm every day, so you can almost always stop by for Turkey. The Turkey Times ~ Summer 2014 Page 4 Published by The Turkey Farm Twenty-six years of Community Supported Agriculture In January 1990, Jill Agnew of Willow Pond Farm told a meeting of farmers in Augusta about her experience with Community Supported Agriculture. We get more requests than we have been able to handle Jill was Maine’s first CSA farmer — she is still at it on Route 9 from people who want to work for a Turkey share. Here in Sabattus — and, as it happened, The Turkey Farm was second. may be a bit of a solution. Jill had learned about CSA from Robyn Van En and thought it a We are going to have a Workfest Day on Sunday, July terrific model for her farm. Robyn, who died in 1997 of a severe 13, for all who want to begin earning a work share. The asthma attack — she was 49 — brought CSA to this country from second workday will be set shortly thereafter, most likely Japan and Europe. on Sunday, July 27. Like many young farmers, Jill (and we) wrangled often with We are going to use the workfest days to repair and reset how to work hard to grow great crops and then find the time and fences. Fencing is one of the annual maintenance proenergy to get them into the hands of people who eat food. jects that we have had to let go for the past four years CSA seemed to answer all Jill’s questions. It answered many of because of the escalating price of feed. There was no ours, and it fit right in with some ideas with which we had been money to pay crew and to buy fencing and staples for the toying about involving customers more in the farm and encouragwork. ing more contact between farmer and eater. But our fences and gates have deteriorated so badly that CSA solves a food eater’s problem of a we have to move their repair to the front burner. The payouts steady supply of one or more kinds of We will work from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on those days, Share Interest Yield high quality food (veggies, protein, etc.) with half an hour for lunch. The work will be light car$100 4 % $104 pentry to repair gates, removing old fencing and fence 150 5 % 157.50 and it levels some seasonal price variations. It solves a farmer’s problem of posts, drilling fence post holes and setting new fence 200 6 % 212 250 7 % 267.50 who will eat the food she grows and it posts and stapling fencing to the fence posts. 300 8 % 324 solves her problem of finding capital at We provide all tools. But if you prefer to work with the start of the season. your own tools, bring hammer, pliers, fencing tools, etc.. Of the two CSA models, we have opted for the drawdown or To sign on for the first Workfest Day, fill out and send debit CSA. In our CSA, you buy a share to which we add interin the form below or call us at 778-2889. Or you can est. The sharer then takes what she wants when she wants it, unemail us at turkeyfarm@myfairpoint.net or stop at our til the share is used up or expires. (In the other model, the box farmstore or at any of our farmers market stands to let us CSA, a sharer takes what the farmer harvests each week. We know you are interested. began with this model but shifted as a convenience to our sharWork sharers receive a $150 share, which has a value of ers.) The drawdown model gives you the choice of what to take $157.50, for two days of work on the farm. Work sharers and when. may begin drawing on the share after a day of work. The Vegetable farmers usually sell shares only before the season. interest of $7.50 is added after the second day of work. We offer shares year-round because we process Turkeys yearround, so you can buy in at any time. Our share is good for a year but the overwhelmCSA Order Form 244 ing majority are used up long before the year is used up. Sharers who use up their Fill out and send to The Turkey Farm, 219 Mile Hill Road, New Sharon, Maine 04955. shares usually renew quickly We also offer work shares in which the Circle as appropriate: sharer works for Turkey. See the adjacent Please sign me up for the following share in Community Supported Agriculture: article about workdays coming up soon. (circle) $100 $150 $200 $250 $300 It is easy to collect the proceeds of your share. We are at farmers markets in South- Sign me up for a work share on July 13 and one other day (to be determined). ern Maine every week of the year. We are at the Skowhegan market, too, and our Name ______________________________________________________________ farmstore is open regularly. Our market and store schedules are published at the foot Address ____________________________________________________________ of page three. Sign on by filling out the form next to this Town ______________________________ State ________ Zip _______________ article and sending or bringing it to us with Telephone ___________________ E-mail _______________________________ your check. Workfest Days The Turkey Times ~ Summer 2014 Page 5 More Recipes Versatile Turkey Burritos 2 tsp. 1 cup 1 2 cups 1/2 lb. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 cup 4 1/4 cup 1 4 4 olive oil red onion, diced red pepper, diced fresh spinach, chopped Turkey chorizo red pepper flakes, crushed pepper jack cheese, shredded tortillas, whole wheat or white salsa avocado, pitted and cubed eggs egg whites To use this recipe for breakfast burritos, follow these steps. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and peppers and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach, chorizo and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, another 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer the mixture to a bowl. Whisk the eggs and eggs whites together in a mediumsized bowl and add the cheese. Oil the skillet and reheat it over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the eggs and scramble until cooked through, about 3 minutes. Spread each tortilla with 1 Tablespoon of salsa, then layer with 1/4 of the chorizo mixture, 1/4 of the scrambled eggs, and 1/4 of the avocado. Season to taste with hot pepper sauce. Roll into burrito shape and serve with additional salsa. Serves four. To make this recipe for lunch or supper, eliminate the eggs. In their place use another half pound of Turkey chorizo or a mixture of 1/2 lb. of Turkey chorizo and 1 cup of black or pinto beans. Then, disregard the third paragraph of the instructions above. Adapted from Zorba Paster on Your Health, Wisconsin Public Radio How to contact us Our farm is at 209 Mile Hill Road, which is Route 27, in New Sharon. The postal address — don’t ask — is 219 Mile Hill Road, New Sharon 04955. Phone numbers are 778-2889 (farm) and 897-8294 (cell). Email is turkeyfarm@myfairpoint.net. Our website is theturkeyfarm.com Published by The Turkey Farm Cherry-topped Turkey Breast 1 lb. 1/4 cup 1 tsp. 1/2 cup 1 tsp. breast cutlets, steaks or tenderloin low-sodium soy sauce olive oil onion, chopped garlic, minced 1 tsp. 2 Tbsp. 1 cup thyme, chopped, or 1 Tbsp. fresh balsamic vinegar sweet cherries, fresh or canned, pitted and chopped salt and pepper to taste Dust the Turkey lightly with pepper. Dredge the Turkey cuts through the soy sauce, coating the meat. Cover the dish and chill the Turkey for an hour. In a small skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and thyme. Saute until onion is almost tender. Add vinegar and sauté a minute or two more to coat. Add cherries. Keep cooking until tender, about 10 minutes total. Remove skillet from heat and season mix with salt. Grill the marinated breast about 4 minutes per side until cooked through. Transfer to plates and top with cherry mixture. Serves four. Adapted from Zorba Paster on Your Health, Wisconsin Public Radio Stuffed Steak or Tenderloin 1 cup 1/2 cup 3/4 cup 1/2 cup 1 Tbsp. 4 2 cloves spinach, fresh, shredded onions, diced parmesan cheese sun-dried tomatoes, drained of oil and chopped basil, dried 5-oz. Turkey steaks or tenderloins* garlic, minced salt and pepper to taste Combine spinach, onions, cheese, tomatoes and basil in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Slice a 2-inch pocket into the side of each steak or tenderloin. Stuff each with an equal amount of the spinach mixture and pinch the edges together. Top each steak with minced garlic and season with salt and pepper. Excess spinach mixture can be used to make a bed for the steaks in the baking dish. Bake for 25 minutes and serve. Serves four. * Dark-meat lovers can use boneless thighs, cut into four pieces. Adapted from Zorba Paster on Your Health Wisconsin Public Radio The Turkey Times ~ Summer 2014 Yet another unique season for farming in Maine Page 6 Published by The Turkey Farm On a macro level, every year is the same for farmers. Some good weather, some crappy weather. Some success, some failure. Some smiles, some curses. On a micro level, no two years are the same. In fact one of the joys of farming is that no two days are even the same. This year is the micro level in spades. We haven’t had a wetter spring since 2009. We haven’t had a cooler May and June in a long time. We haven’t had so much ground water, following a wet winter, since 1998. Upshot: A lot hasn’t got done. The Turkeys, who thrive in cool weather, even though their ancestors were native to Mexico and not to Maine, have done very well. But we have had a devil of a time getting forage planted for them. The pumpkins and corn went in, as did the second planting on some hills that failed to sprout. But no grasses — we plant oats, barley and rye — have been planted and likely won’t be. We couldn’t mow under the electric fence until late June because of the wet ground. We can’t work on some fences because the ground near the gates remains muddy or just plain all puddled up. Feeding has sometimes been by hand when our tractor couldn’t negotiate the mud on the ranges. Yup, just another farming season in Maine. A 3.5-mile shift coming for Thanksgiving Turkeys Maybe we’re slow learners, but after bad weather for three of our last four Thanksgiving pickups in Brunswick, we are changing the drill. We are moving the Thanksgiving pickup to the Topsham Fairgrounds. That is three-and-a-half miles from Crystal Spring Farm, where we have held the pickup for 14 years. The hours don’t change. The pickup will be from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Wednesday, Nov. 26, at the exhibition hall of the Topsham Fairgrounds. That is the site of the Topsham winter farmers market, and the market will operate that day, so you can pick up not only your Turkey but fixings for Thanksgiving dinner. Those of you who joined us last year at Crystal Spring don’t need to be told why we are moving. In the four hours of the pickup, we received more than 1.5 inches of rain (2.5 inches for the day), and a sailing friend said the wind was blowing 40 miles an hour at his house in Freeport. It was one miserable day, the worst ever. It seems that the weather gods want to churn things up just before Thanksgiving. In 2010, the wind was so strong at Crystal Spring that we had to park trucks on the windward side to help keep the tent staked down. In 2011, we were greeted with eight inches of snow and had to plow in order to set up. What makes us believe that the weather gods are after us (or after Brunswick) is that the weather the day before for our pickups in Portland has ranged from benign to gorgeous. This year, it won’t matter. The fairgrounds is easy to get to from anywhere in Southern Maine. The Christmas pickup will from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Tuesday, Dec. 23, at the Topsham Fairgrounds. Again the full market will operate that day so you can pick up other items for Christmas dinner and for last-minute gifts, as well. We know of no changes planned for the Bath Thanksgiving pickup, which is 9 a.m. to noon on Nov. 26, at the Freight Shed on Commercial Street. Some change may be in the offing for the Portland/South Portland pickup, but nothing has been settled. We will have full details on all of our pickups in the Thanksgiving (autumn) issue of The Turkey Times. Shifting to Topsham was the suggestion of Dick Hull of Brunswick, a weekly customer at the Crystal Spring and Topsham markets. Thanks, Dick. To get in early, fill out the form below and send it to us at 219 Mile Hill Road, New Sharon, 04955. Or bring it to our farmstore or any of our farmers market stands (see page three). No, we don’t yet know the price, but we doubt it can be lower than the $3.79 a pound of last year. Feed prices, which dropped briefly last winter, have begun climbing again, with no halt in sight until nearly the end of our season. We’ll let you know the price as soon as we know it. Holiday Order Form 201 Please reserve for me the following Turkey(s): THANKSGIVING Number Pounds Farm-fresh ______ Smoked ______ CHRISTMAS Number Pounds ______ ______ ______ ______ ______ ______ I will pick up at (Check one): _____The Farm _____Topsham ____ Orono _____ Bath ____ Portland/South Portland Name_______________________________________________________________ Address (postal)______________________________________________________ Town ________________________________________ Zip _________________ E-mail address _______________________________________________________