Around the Marais Walking Tour
1

2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
1
Around the Marais Walking Tour
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
cont’d
Place des Vosges – starting point
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum
62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully
19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne
8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper
7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo*
9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe*
10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne
12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn
2
2

2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2
Around the Marais Walking Tour
13.
cont’d
31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais
14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe
14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise
17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars
18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle
19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly
20.
5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**
(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for
renovations until 2012.)
3
3

2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
3
Around the Marais Walking Tour
21.
22.
23.
cont’d
29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin
39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges
13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
4
4
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
4
Around the Marais Walking Tour
This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take
you between 1-4 hours depending how
much shopping you do and how long you
linger. The walk begins at the most beautiful square in Paris and lets you wander
around the ancient, adorable streets of the
Marais.
Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th.
This square is recognized by most as the oldest
and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must
do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in
1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of
Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend
some real time here either for a drink, breakfast,
lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galleries underneath the arches.
In addition there are two museums on the square,
2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40,
except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72
10 16) and 3. Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. Antoine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gardens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully
was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du
Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can
also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges.
4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is a
great place for a quick coffee before you are off
and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a
quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but
hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often
turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view
of the Place even in winter. A page on everything
Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here.
As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on
the square, exit the square to the left and continue
on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the
shops. There are many here we like including
5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue des
Francs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous
French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at
cont’d
#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des FrancsBourgeois, for those great walking shoes from
Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue
down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this
turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a
very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the
former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish
neighborhood dating back to the 13th century.
While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still
find synagogues nearby.
There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers
named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is
next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea
salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely
lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy.
Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barcelona, for original and very colorful men’s and
women’s shirts.
The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is
also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel,
down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to
the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun &
cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in
his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and
not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.”
Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll
come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez
Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you
can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is
more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are
often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sundays. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pastries across the street at 12. Sacha
Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end
of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue
Vieille-du-Temple.
Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops
as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33
rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of
the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk-
2
5
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
5
Around the Marais Walking Tour
ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind
down after a day of walking through Paris. Hammams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the
rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to
reserve a massage and steam.
Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross
rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check
out some of the shops you missed earlier.
Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll
pass 14. Paul & Joe at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple,
a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if
you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Temple for a scrumptious crepe at 14a. Breizh Café.
This is one of the best creperies in Paris.
15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple across
the street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and
Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89)
is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is profiled in our Dining section. Check it out and see if
you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their
steak cooked over the open fire.
17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another restaurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple
(01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy
setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll
come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieilledu-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in
the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La
Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our
Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table
here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the
street hoping to see the models that often frequent
the place.
19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 42
cont’d
Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take
a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de
Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso
Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until
2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum covering a wide range of his work plus they have some
wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion
that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the garden out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny
and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then
left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and
then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue
de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has
many small special shops as well as 21. Christian
Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue
de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay section. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a brochure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue
Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de
Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22.
Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left.
This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This
isn’t a proper food market although there are a
few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap
and excellent lunch if you haven’t already
stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japanese, French, Italian or Caribbean food —
tables abound, but order first from the stalls.
Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling
through all the small food vendors on this market
street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne
until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll
turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and
right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple.
If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro station of République and if you turn right you can
72 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in
Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate
her inventive yet very wearable styles.
From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso
3
6
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
6
Around the Marais Walking Tour
take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13
Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in
Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for
it. Across the street is the historic Cirque
d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail
on the side of this circular building. Metro home
but be sure to come back to the Marais for dinner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always
a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be
far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which
is slightly further down south on the Boulevard
du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire.
cont’d
du Marais
14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe
14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise
17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars
18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle
19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly
Points of Interest Addresses
20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso
21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin
1.
2.
Place des Vosges – starting point
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and
museum
22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
3.
62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully
4.
19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne
5.
8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
6.
9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper
7.
3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8.
7 rue des Rosiers – Custo
9.
9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe
10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais –
Chez Marianne
12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn
13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains
4
7
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
7
Pigalle and Montmartre
1
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
8
Pigalle and Montmartre
2
2
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
9
Pigalle and Montmartre
3
3
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
10
Pigalle and Montmartre
1.
2.
3.
4.
cont’d
Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy –
starting point
15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins
28 rue Lepic – Epicerie du Terroir
26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons
5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre
5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain
6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre
4
4
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
11
Pigalle and Montmartre
7.
8.
9.
cont’d
44 rue Lepic – Espace W
42 rue Lepic – A La Pomponette
41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta
10.
83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette
12.
11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali
5
5
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
12
Pigalle and Montmartre
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
cont’d
2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose
22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile
12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)
Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur
2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre
51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia
25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia
6
6
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
13
Pigalle and Montmartre
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
cont’d
16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique
14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave-Moreau
35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere de la Famille
31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau
14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau
6 Passage Verdeau – Librarie Roland Buret
Passage Jouffroy – Hotel Chopin
Passage Panoramas
30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin
8 Passage Panoramas – Racines
10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin
7
7
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
14
Pigalle and Montmartre
31.
32.
cont’d
40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette
64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps
8
8
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
15
Pigalle and Montmartre
If it is a hot day, this walk is best done in
the morning and will last 4+ hours or more
depending on your pace. Go slow and
make a day of it.
Begin at 1. Métro Blanche in the 18th and
travel up the hill on rue Lepic heading north keeping the Moulin Rouge on your left. We do not
recommend going to the Moulin Rouge as it is
dreadfully tacky but its history is interesting.
Pass by the 2. Café des Deux Moulins at 15
rue Lepic (01 42 54 90 50), from the movie Amélie,
and have a coffee if you like. Continue on Lepic and
check out the 3. Épicerie du Terroir, 28 rue Lepic, which is good for specialty food gifts at the corner of rue Véron. The artisanal tartes at 4. Les
Petits Mitrons, 26 rue Lepic, are worth mentioning. Follow Lepic up to the left as you come to rue
des Abbesses; if you turn right on Rue des Abbesses
you’ll find some wonderful bars such as 5. Le Sancerre at 35 rue des Abbesses (01 42 58 08 20) and
interesting food shops on this market street. At 38
rue des Abesses you’ll find 5a. Le Grenier à
Pain, 2010 winner of the Grand Prix for best baguette in Paris. Plus there is a notable Arts and
Crafts style church at 19 and 21 rue des Abbesses
called 6. Saint-Jean de Montmartre. Le Sancerre stays open very late so you can join the fun
later on. But if you don’t have extra time for the
diversion, continue up Lepic to the left, passing
44 Lepic, which is a cutting edge art gallery called
7. Espace W.
8. À la Pomponette at 42 (01 46 06 08 36) &
9. La Rughetta at 41 (01 42 23 41 70) are fairly
good restaurants worth noting on Lepic if you want
to come back for dinner. As you turn and begin
marching up the big hill, you’ll see the top of
Sacré-Cœur (the famous church on the mount).
At the corner of Lepic and rue Tholozé look to your
right for a wonderful view of Paris. The gold dome
cont’d
of Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb stands out.
As you continue up rue Lepic, to the left you’ll
see one of the two remaining windmills of Montmartre set on top of 10. Le Moulin de la
Galette 83 rue Lepic (see Dining section) at
the corner of rue Girardon (01 46 06 84 78) is a
lovely place for lunch or dinner and open every
day. The owners also have a movie theatre
showing art films around the corner. Across the
street from Le Moulin is 11. La Divette du
Moulin at 98 rue Lepic which is another solid
restaurant you might want to book for dinner (01
46 06 34 84). Their Côte de Boeuf is popular.
Turn right on rue Norvins then left on rue des
Saules to avoid the masses of tourists in the
Place du Tertre, a place we avoid like the
plague, but if you want to take a detour then
venture in 12. Espace Dali at 11 rue Poulbot
it is worth a look (take a right just before you
enter the square and follow the signs). This is
not a spectacular museum, but a fun stop if you
are a Dali fan. Otherwise continue down rue
des Saules until you reach rue Saint-Vincent
where you’ll see the last of the remaining grape
vines in Montmartre. These are the vines they
harvest and celebrate during the Fête des
Vendanges in October. Turn right here, noting
the beautifully picturesque 13. La Maison
Rose restaurant on your left at 2 rue Abreuvoir
(01 42 57 66 75), which we hear is quite nice.
Also across the street from the small vineyard is
14. Au Lapin Agile 22 rue des Saules (01
46 06 85 87) a venue famous for its patrons
(Picasso and Modigliani) and old-fashioned
cabaret music (think Edith Piaf).
Continue along Saint Vincent stopping if you
like at the 15. Montmartre Museum at 12
rue Cortot, with another entrance on SaintVincent. The museum which houses the history
of Montmartre is not going to blow you away,
but the garden is lovely and it’s a nice respite
from the tourists. Stay on St. Vincent until it
2
9
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
16
Pigalle and Montmartre
ends and take a right at rue de la Bonne and you’ll
see the 16. Sacré-Cœur. Take another right at
rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre and left on Cardinal
Guibert to enter the church. Depending on the season, cool off or warm up in this impressive cathedral, built from 1875 - 1914 in the RomanoByzantine style.
Exit the church and behold the most amazing view
of the entire city of Paris. Follow the hordes of people down the stairs on either the right or left side
ending up at rue St. Pierre where you’ll take a left.
Note: Be careful here of men trying to sell you
bracelets. Walk away from them if they do as their
method of putting a bracelet on you and then demanding payment is a bit too aggressive for our
liking. Take another left at rue Ronsard if you would
like to visit 17. Halle St. Pierre at 2 rue Ronsard (01 42 58 72 89), which is dedicated to emerging artists. The little café here is a nice place to
hide from the crowds near the church and have a
quick tea or lemonade. Exit left out of the Halle and
turn down rue Seveste and take a right on rue
d’Orsel. This street has some cute shops further
down. Take note of the lovely Theatre at Place
Dullin. Follow d’Orsel until rue des Martyrs where
you’ll turn left. Continue on Martyrs, which is one of
our favorite streets, as you enter the 9th passing
across Boulevard Clichy.
On Martyrs you can lunch at 18. l’Epicerie
Fuxia at 51, which is a charming little Italian place.
Here you can order a plate of mixed antipasti and
charcuterie or sardines and octopus, knocking it
down with a glass of Italian wine. For fancier dining,
the same owners have another Italian restaurant
further down the street at 25 rue des Martyrs called
simply 19. Fuxia.
Perhaps you’d like to wait to lunch in the garden (if
it’s nice out) at 20. Musée de la Vie Romantique, which isn’t too far away. To get there, continue along Martyrs until it ends at l’Église NotreDame-de-Lorette. Turn slightly right here and take
cont’d
rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to the Musée de la
Vie Romantique at 16 rue Chaptal (01 55 31 95
67). Rue Chaptal will be off to your left just after
you come to rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle where
the road forks. The museum was the home of
Ary Scheffer and a frequent stop for the writer
George Sand. It gives you an idea of what life
was like during the 1830’s but it’s not a mustsee unless you are visiting in good weather
when the garden café is open. The outdoor café
is an absolute delight.
Exit the museum to the right and turn left on rue
Blanche. Follow this street down until you can
turn onto Rue de la Tour des Dames which you
will follow until it dead-ends. 21. Musée Gustave-Moreau is on Rue de La Rochefoucauld
at number 14 (01 48 74 38 50), which you
should see to your left. This museum is worth
visiting in winter or summer as it is both an
atelier full of the French symbolist painter’s
work as well as his home. The furnishings and
his artifacts are in place and well preserved and
really give you a feel of Paris in the late 1800’s.
A visit will have you in and out in under an hour.
Exit the museum to the left, and take another
left on Rue St. Lazare until you reach the
church again (Notre-Dame de Lorette) which is
worthy of a quick visit although the church’s exterior could use some renovation. Cross the
Place here to find rue du Faubourg-Montmartre.
Down this street is 22. À la Mère de la Famille at 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre,
which is a famous old candy and chocolate
shop for gifts ‘extraordinaire’.
Follow the rue until you reach 23. Passage
Verdeau at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre
(04 47 70 83 69), which is one of the old passages couverts (covered passageways). This
one was built in 1847. Shop for antique children’s books at 25. Librarie Roland Buret
6 Passage Verdeau. Continue through Verdeau
3
10
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
17
Pigalle and Montmartre
cont’d
until you enter Passage Jouffroy which hosts
mainly bookstores but where you can find the well
known 24. Photo Verdeau at #47 (it recently
moved to Jouffroy from Verdeau) (01 47 70 51
91) . Also note the charming little 26. Hôtel Chopin if you are looking for a quaint if simple room.
Follow this Passage until it ends and cross the
Blvd Montmartre into the final Passage and the
oldest of them all, named 27. Panoramas built
in 1799-1800. This passage is home to restaurants and cafés. Two are particularly noteworthy
— 28. Le Valentin for tea at number 30 or 29.
Racines at number 8, which offers a wide selection of organic wines and Italian charcuterie plus a
small selection of market choices each day. This
place is a find. Reserve for dinner if you like (01
40 13 06 41).
6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de
Montmartre
Exit the Panoramas onto the Blvd Montmartre and
end your day on a very kitsch note if you are the
type, and go to the 30. Musée Grevin (the wax
museum) at 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a
place we would avoid like the plague, but it can be
fun if you’ve got kids along. The metro station
Grands Boulevards is right nearby. If you still have
energy you can turn right onto Blvd Montmartre
which turns into Blvd Haussmann and hit 31.
Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann
and 32. Printemps at 64 Blvd. Haussmann for
a bit of department store shopping.
17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre
7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W
8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pompnette
9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta
10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette
11. 98 rue Lepic – La Divette du Moulin
12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali
13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose
14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile
15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee
Montmartre)
16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur
18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia
19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia
20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique
21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee GustaveMoreau
22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere
de la Famille
23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage
Verdeau
24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau
Points of Interest Addresses
25. 6 Passage Verdeau - Librarie Roland Buret
26. Passage Jouffroy - Hotel Chopin
1. Begin at Metro Blanche in the 18th on
Blvd. Clichy
27. Passage Panoramas
2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins
28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin
3. 28 rue Lepic - Epicerie du Terroir
29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines
4. 26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons
30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin
5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre
31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette
5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain
32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps
4
11
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
18
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
1
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
19
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
4.
5.
cont’d
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
10.
51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
11.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan Parfumeur
12.
56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
13.
75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
14.
68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
15.
16.
17.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel Suisse
43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18.
33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers
19.
1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
20.
21.
22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
2
2
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
20
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
22.
23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
23.
5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
24.
23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
25.
8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
26.
32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*
27.
17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm
28.
15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
29.
20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
30.
31.
cont’d
14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
32.
40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
33.
2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place
34.
19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*
35.
17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga
36.
16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*
37.
18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
38.
22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
39.
24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
41.
36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
40.
49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
3
3
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
21
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
42.
112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
43.
125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
44.
22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
45.
15, rue de Poitou – Shine
46.
24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
47.
48.
49.
50.
17, rue de Poitou – Avenches*
22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie
51.
21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
52.
25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
58.
29, rue Charlot – Pring
59.
33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
60.
38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
61.
62.
63.
64.
cont’d
38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché
39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges
39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet
* Sadly these locations have closed.
4
4
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
22
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
This tour will take between two and five
hours depending on how many shops you
visit.
Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the
4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking
north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great
stop if you are looking for those quintessential St.
Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the
last several summers. K. Jacques has been
making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find
3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue des
Rosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-tooexpensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find
one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des
Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you
need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack.
To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers,
taking note of this very historic street. It is one of
the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still
is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy boutiques and cafés and the countless tourists who
frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date
back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal
is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for
classic French perfumes with that lovely butterflytopped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the
designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, colorful shirts as well as other items for men and
women, at 7, rue des Rosiers.
If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with
a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du
Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Saturdays). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer falafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Farther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the
Japanese home and clothing store that always has
something affordable, well designed and of inter-
cont’d
est. The main entrance is around the corner on
Francs Bourgeois.
At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head
toward the Place des Vosges. There are great
shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10.
Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright,
colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by
Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here),
as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously.
To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Parfumeur at number 34; stop to try on some
scents.
Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place
des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour,
turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple
north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12.
Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe
empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous
at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find
the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left,
at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the
block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68),
you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredible and unique bags.
Turn back around and head back down to rue des
Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward
the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel
Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good
for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions
are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea
in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs
Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Barbara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost.
Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des
Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very
fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir
des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot
for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing.
2
5
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
23
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19.
Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for affordable, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute
doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and
choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. Another worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced,
slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs
Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at
number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a
gift for a friend with a sense of humor.
Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of culture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévigné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of
Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite
walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s
free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de
Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time
frame (but at present is closed for renovations;
check website first).
Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite
does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be
a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8
(corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in
town, combining home and fashion—one can always find something great here. Turn right on rue de
Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at
number 32, with their reasonable leather walking
shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfortable—a real necessity in Paris).
27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is a
place where teens and twentysomethings will find
reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-inthe-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great
stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné,
is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do
is pick out the width and the type of leather and then
fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of
fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de
cont’d
Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly
pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done.
31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévigné, is one of those places where you can create
your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon
activity if you are with a teen or a creative type.
On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur
has recently opened a cool new outpost at number 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite
shops in Paris. There are several more throughout the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and
Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying
fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay
for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and
the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always
au courant.
Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente,
south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné.
Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron,
and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place
du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one
of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de
la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly
good for a salad or something light.
Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente
and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne,
where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll
find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Argenterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in
the market for silver. After this shop, on the same
side of the street you’ll see two darling baby
shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and
the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Beluga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in
your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at
16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And
then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18,
the famous bohemian fashion stop and a perennial favorite. You can probably find this store at
home, however. Then you’ll find another 38.
Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you
3
6
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
24
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
didn’t stop before.
Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d
like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in
Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Continuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain
de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits
and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expensive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at
Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at
41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café des
Musées, at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the surroundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you
are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter
and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with
extremely original small shops and designers.
Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay
to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay
on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple,
you’ve got 42. APC at number 112, rue Vieille du
Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other musthaves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll
find 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar, at 125, rue Vieille
du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn
here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleepand loungewear store called 44. V & J loungewear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poitou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, offers a nice mix of name designers. 46. Oxyde, at
24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47.
Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting
one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number
22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look.
À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage
watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another
spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now
closed). 50. Violette & Léonie, at number 27,
sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We
love rue de Poitou!
Continue down the road, turning right on rue de
Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer
51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful,
cont’d
unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire,
at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to
outfit the French home, or the American one! We
like their candlesticks, their silver globes and
their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou,
have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53.
Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poitou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down,
54. the Collection, at number 33, offers the
most interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen—
truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at
number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix
of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or
items with a Moroccan touch.
Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56.
Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy Englishstyle clothing by an American designer. 57.
Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and
well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58.
Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-thetop shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is
a very understated fashion outpost with an LA
feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent
can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*.
Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de
Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping
with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de
Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue
de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening
crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the everadorable 63. Marché des Enfants
Rouges, which is across the street from the
cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have
a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of
their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Estaminet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bretagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping
tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back
home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east,
turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the
metro stop of the same name.
* Sadly these locations have closed.
4
7
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
25
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
cont’d
31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
Points of Interest Addresses
1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
4.
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
5.
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez
Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot
de la Place
33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne
34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga*
35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer
36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan
Parfumeur
43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches
14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel
Suisse
48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des
Cotonniers
44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine
49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie*
50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring
24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm*
60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché*
28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) –
L’Estaminet
* Sadly these locations have closed.
5
8
2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
26
Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
27
Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn
1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
28
8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American films to be shot on location in the city and showcases almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored some less well known areas. This walk will take you past locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear Givenchy. The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau metro station. Take the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and cross the road. Walk up avenue George V to 1. Givenchy headquarters, at No. 3. This was the site of the first meeting between the young Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and the rest is history. Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The building is not open to the public. Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. Christian Dior. The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to enter the store). 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
29
Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is the supposed location of the room where William Holden is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach gets very friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in case you want a souvenir. Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15. The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the Passage Choiseul on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful shopping arcades. Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of 9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in front of you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has written an entire book on the subject of the little black dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Didier Ludot sells vintage haute couture—check to see if there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his comeuppance. This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you can also explore: 12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue Montmartre, 1er: this is the restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audrey have a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel) 13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant and Audrey spend time here in Charade (it is called the Hôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes were filmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro: Censier‐Daubenton) 14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is the emptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at the beginning of Charade. (Metro: Monceau) 15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann, 8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐
Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors, however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil) 16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e: the Art Deco palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles. (Metro: Trocadéro) 17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usually stayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber) And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . . Points of interest addresses: 1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
30
Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to 1
Paris. All Rights Reserved
31
Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement
1.
2.
Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50 1 3.
4.
Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5.
6.
7.
La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
32
Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement
8.
9.
10.
Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11.
12.
13.
Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard Rue Berton Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14.
15.
Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to 3
Paris. All Rights Reserved
33
Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later described this year as “the high point in my life, my happiest and most carefree year.” The walk takes you through some of the streets she would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐
ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who maintained an apartment in Paris. The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the museums on the route. There are many good picnic spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large apartment, with several other students. There was no central heating, and the eight occupants of the apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn right into rue du Ranelagh. On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having an affair with a female student. Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in 1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a translator can be arranged if you give the school advance notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐
tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a line that once ran around the circumference of the city (www.restaurantlagare.com). If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter 6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public balls were held here and Parisians from all walks of life came to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐
fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you will get no further. If you continue on the same road to the other side of the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see 7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at 2, rue Louis Boilly. It is devoted to Impressionist art. When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may want to visit the museum. But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
34
Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐
jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐
ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian street market. Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot. Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐
delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and look for the steps going down on the left. Take them and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust. Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the left, through a large square archway. Walk straight through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐
gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en). In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐
um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your answer to the question: Do you want to understand wine, or simply experience it? Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐
tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐
shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the left, with filled‐in arches. Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk into the gardens and head uphill to the main building with its museums and restaurants. 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. Rest your feet and toast the memory of Jackie. Points of interest addresses: 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9. 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard 12. Rue Berton 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place Trocadéro If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the 8th Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) and visit: Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and one of Jackie’s favorite designers. D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the linens for the White House here. Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to 5
Paris. All Rights Reserved
35
Walk from the Palais Royal
to the Pompidou
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
36
Walk from the Palais Royal
to the Pompidou
1. La Comédie Française, Place
Colette
2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais
Royal
3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue
de Montpensier
4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier
5. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58,
rue de Richelieu
6. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la
Banque
7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart,
Place de la Bourse
8. Sentier District
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
37
Walk from the Palais Royal
to the Pompidou
9. Frenchie, 5-6, rue du Nil
10. Rue Montorgueil
11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37,
rue Saint-Sauveur
12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue
Montorgueil
13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue
Montorgueil
14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue
Montorgueil
15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart
16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue
Dussoubs
17. Rue Saint-Denis
18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour
19. Forum des Halles
20. Fontaine Stravinsky
21. Centre Pompidou, rue SaintMartin
22. Place Georges Pompidou
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
38
Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou
On this walk, you’ll travel through parts of
the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements as you
meander through the royal gardens,
beautiful covered passageways, historic
churches and museums, with, of course,
many wonderful spots at which to eat along
the way. Allow at least three hours to enjoy
this tour at a leisurely pace.
Exit onto rue de Montpensier and turn right,
then continue until the end of the street,
where you’ll find a small but wonderful wine
bar, 4. Verjus (47, rue de Montpensier).
Enjoy a selection of seasonal small plates with
wines to match from a friendly and
knowledgeable American couple. Or reserve
in advance for an exceptional full-course meal
in the dining room upstairs.
The tour begins with Paris’s oldest theatre
company, the 1. Comédie Française (Place
Colette), which was founded in 1680. It
originally performed at the Odéon but moved
to this location, near the Palais Royal, in 1799.
Most major French actors have performed
here and still do. Expect to see classics from
Victor Hugo, Molière, and Shakespeare.
Exit on rue de Beaujolais and turn left onto
rue Vivienne and take a quick right onto rue
des Petits Champs. Halfway down the street
on your left, you’ll see the beautiful 5. Galerie
Vivienne (5, rue de la Banque), adjacent to
the Galerie Colbert. Walk on the gorgeous
mosaic tiles and feel yourself transported to
the 1800s, when these covered passageways
were built. They were designed to protect
well-coiffed Parisienne shoppers from both
the weather and carriage debris. You’ll find
every Parisian delight here, including books,
flowers, wine, a bistro and the pièce de
résistance, a Jean Paul Gaultier shop.
Just across rue de Richelieu is the 2. Palais
Royal (Place du Palais Royal). The building
was originally created in 1634 for Cardinal
Richelieu and then passed through several
royal families before it fell into ill repute in
the 19th century, with ladies doing some
unladylike things. It was eventually burned
down and restored by the current occupants,
the Ministry of Culture and the Conseil d’Etat.
Walking into the courtyard, you’ll see what
may appear to be out-of-place columns of
various sizes, but these were created in 1980
by Daniel Buren.
Walking through the courtyard, away from
the Louvre, you’ll find the 3. Jardin du Palais
Royal (6, rue de Montpensier), providing a
nice oasis in the middle of the bustling city.
Grab a bench and enjoy some quiet time, or
dive into some upscale shopping at the arcade
surrounding the garden. From perfume to
bags to designer clothes, you’ll find it all right
here.
After you walk all the way through Galerie
Vivienne, you’ll find yourself in front of the
6. Bibliothèque Nationale (58, rue de
Richelieu). Louis XIV originally housed
manuscripts here in the 1660s when the
Louvre couldn’t take them. As more
documents were moved here, the library
needed to expand. In addition to important
papers, you can also find medals, coins and
antiques, but the library is currently
undergoing a major renovation, so some
areas might be closed during your visit.
Continue right on rue de Richelieu until you
reach rue du Quatre Septembre, and then
turn right. Shortly on your left, you’ll see the
7. Bourse (Palais Brongniart, Place de la
Bourse), Paris’s stock exchange. Stock trading
has had many homes throughout Paris,
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
39
Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou
including the Louvre and the Palais Royal, but
it landed at this location in 1826. You can tour
the Bourse with an advance reservation.
Continue down rue Réaumur. To the north of
this street you’ll find the 8. Sentier district,
where much of the wholesale clothing
industry is based. While it’s not open to the
public, you can still wander through and see
the reams of colorful cloth, ribbons and
accessories.
Turning left on rue des Petits Carreaux and
right on to the small alley of rue du Nil, you’ll
see one of Paris’s top and toughest tickets in
town, the restaurant 9. Frenchie (5–6, rue du
Nil). A crowd starts forming outside before
7 p.m. to find out if there are any day-of
cancellations. There will also be a line of
people directly opposite the restaurant, in
front of its namesake wine bar, which is
equally as good, and where seats are on a
first-come, first-served basis.
Head back to rue des Petits Carreaux and
make a left, following it until it turns into the
pedestrian- and food-friendly 10. rue
Montorgueil. Enjoy all the specialty food
shops selling everything from fish to meat,
cheese and wine. Farther down the street,
there are some fun and funky clothing
boutiques as well as interesting art and
jewelry shops.
Explore some of the side streets, like rue
Saint-Sauveur, where you can step into
11. Experimental Cocktail Club (37, rue
Saint-Sauveur), a hip, happening cocktail
lounge, for some late-night fun.
Another notable stop along rue Montorgueil
is 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer (51, rue
Montorgueil). Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest
pâtisserie in Paris. As if the decor wasn’t
beautiful enough, there are also croissants,
pastries, salads and Stohrer’s claim to fame,
the baba au rhum. Be sure to visit on an
empty stomach.
There are many great spots to enjoy a glass of
wine or a bigger meal. The Montorgueil
classic 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles
(28, rue Montorgueil) has a wonderful duck
confit, and there’s the 19th-century literary
hang 14. Au Rocher de Cancale (78, rue
Montorgueil).
Turn down rue Marie Stuart and you can
quench your thirst for great wine and tapas at
15. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). At the
end of this street is the gorgeous 16. Passage
du Grand Cerf (8, rue Dussoubs). This bright
passage was created in 1825 and used as a
point in the royal mail coach service. Now you
can find trendy designer and workmen’s
shops selling unique and interesting personal
and home items.
If you exit at the other end, you’ll be on
17. rue Saint-Denis. While this street’s
reputation has improved, you’ll still find
ladies of the evening working here, as well as
other semi-seedy types around the neon-lit
sex shops.
Turn right on rue Saint-Denis and move
quickly through the street, then make another
right onto rue de Turbigo and follow it until
you dead-end at the behemoth construction
site that currently is les Halles. Before you
fully dive in, take a right on rue Rambuteau
and walk until you come to the beautiful
18. Eglise Saint-Eustache (rue du Jour).
Construction on the church began in 1532,
and it’s a mix of Gothic and Renaissance
styles. The church boasts an 8,000-pipe
organ, and most Sundays you can catch a free
concert here.
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
40
Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou
Turning back to face the beast that is the
19. Forum des Halles, you’ll have to picture
it as it once was—a bustling, commercial
market selling food and produce to Paris’s big
buyers. When the market was moved out of
town to ease congestion, the area never quite
recovered. There’s a string of chain stores in
the massive, constructed mall, along with a
complex web of transportation underground.
Most people avoid it by night, or even by day,
but attempts are being made to restore the
forum to a more consumer-friendly area.
Time will tell, though, if this lofty goal will be
achieved.
After crossing through the Forum des Halles,
exit on rue Berger and turn left, walking
toward the Centre Georges Pompidou, but
before going in, admire the 20. Fontaine
Stravinsky behind it. The collection of playful
water decorations sprays, squirts and
delights those heading into the Pompidou.
You can see the exterior of the 21. Centre
Pompidou (rue Saint-Martin) from many
places throughout Paris, given its bold, bright
primary colors and “inside-out” architecture
featuring large pipes and tubes protruding
from the building. The Centre Pompidou, aka
Beaubourg, was designed by architects Renzo
Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco
Franchini and is home to the largest modernart collection in Europe. It was built in 1977
and is a unique, vast building with five stories
of art and panoramic views from the top.
Many notable exhibitions rotate through the
temporary spaces, so check the schedule to
plan your visit.
Points of Interest Addresses
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
La Comédie Française, Place Colette
Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal
Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier
Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 40
Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque
Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu
La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse
01 49 27 14 70
Sentier District
Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19
Rue Montorgueil
Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur
Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil
Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil,
01 42 33 36 19
Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil,
01 42 33 50 29
L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, 09 82 55 00 49
Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs
Rue Saint-Denis
Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour
Forum des Halles
Fontaine Stravinsky
Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-Martin
Place Georges Pompidou
As you leave the building, join the masses in
the 22. Place Georges Pompidou to watch
street performers, artists and tourists enjoy
the activity and sights in this bustling square.
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
41
Louvre to Opera Walk
Jardin
DESdes
Tuileries
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
42
Louvre to Opera Walk
1.
2.
3.
Louvre, rue de Rivoli
Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de
Rivoli
4.
5.
Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli
Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des
Tuileries
6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde
7. Place de la Concorde
8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la
Concorde
9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli
10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon
11.
12.
13.
14.
Jardin des
Tuileries
Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli
Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli
Place Vendôme
Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
43
Louvre to Opera Walk
15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou
16. Palais Garnier, 1 place de l’Opera
17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des
Capucines
18.
19.
20.
21.
Place de la Madeleine
Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine
Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine
Eglise de la Madeleine
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
44
Louvre to Opéra Walk
On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of
culture with a great selection of museums
to visit, including the world-famous Louvre.
It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the
museums listed, but this approximate 3
hour walk will give you a good overview, so
you can decide where you’d like to return.
And no tour is complete without some
gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful
Parisian delicacies.
Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue
de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of
the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed
on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all
35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few
highlights, themes or time periods to explore.
The Louvre is one of the largest museums in
the world and dates back to the 12th century,
when a fortress was needed to protect the
city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It
transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually
into a museum in 1793.
If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit
on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de
Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass
pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the
exceptional location and view.
Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s
3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue de
Rivoli) are three independently operated
museums, worth a visit for a look at the role
of fashion, design and decorative arts in
industry and culture. The Musée des Arts
Décoratifs features decorative arts from the
Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode
et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th
century to the present, and the Musée de la
Publicité features advertising from around
the world. Look for interesting, frequently
rotating exhibitions at each.
Walk out of the museum and through the
beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des
Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace
garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park
was later opened to the public and designed
by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the
gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century.
Grab one of the iconic green chairs and
position it for a prime view of the expansive
gardens and some great people watching.
If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there
are two more situated next to the Place de la
Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie
(Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s
water lily paintings, among other
impressionist work from the 19th and 20th
centuries, including pieces by Cézanne,
Renoir, Picasso and Matisse.
Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de
Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a
tennis court, it now focuses on photography
exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries.
At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the
7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largest
square and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de
Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In
the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a
statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced
with a guillotine, which was later used for
many notable names, including Louis XVI and
Marie Antoinette. The 75-foot-tall goldentopped obelisk that you now see in the middle
of the square used to sit outside the Luxor
Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was
given as a gift to France from the viceroy of
Egypt in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows
the complex manner in which the 230-ton
object was shipped to France. The featured
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
45
Louvre to Opéra Walk
hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of
pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the
golden top was added by the government in
1998.
On the western edge of the Place de la
Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon
(10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent
home to the Count of Crillon. The first
traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909,
and service has been continuous and near
perfection ever since.
Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left
you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli).
Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or
magazines written in English.
Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best
macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé
(4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful
packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be
hard to leave without a shopping bag.
Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find
the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue
de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin
restaurant of the same name. If your budget
does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have
a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe
Starck–designed dining area, resembling an
opulent room at Versailles.
For something more casual but still beautiful,
go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de
Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate,
and try picking just one decadent sweet to
accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has
been around for over a century.
Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right
up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place
Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious
squares, though it actually has eight sides,
which makes it an octagon. The Place
Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th
century, and it has seen several statues come
and go over the years, including a homage to
Napoleon’s military prowess made from
Russian and Austrian canons captured during
the battle of Austerlitz. This, too, was
destroyed and re-created and stands in the
square today. The Place Vendôme is now
home to many top-name jewelers and upscale
boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz
Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a
stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful
decor and people, perhaps including a few
celebrities.
*Closed for renovations until 2014.
Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still
thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar
(5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou.
As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New
York, where an avid patron loved the place so
much that he asked if the whole bar could be
moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in
Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300
whiskies, or have one of the white-coated
bartenders whip you up a New York specialty.
When you arrive at the major intersection
and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your
next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de
l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of
this magnificent building, which was the most
expensive built during the Second Empire,
and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece.
The chandelier in the center of the theatre
was designed by Charles Garnier himself and
weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and
crystal accoutrements. The brilliant
multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted
in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene
depicts a different story from a different
opera. If you can’t get tickets to a
performance but would like to see the inside
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
46
Louvre to Opéra Walk
of the building, the Palais Garnier offers wellexecuted tours of the breathtaking venue.
Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard
des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café
de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a
great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or
bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room
and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables
like Oscar Wilde and Marlene Dietrich once
did.
Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to
the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll
find a food mecca. Head to your right and
you’ll come to the first of two separate
buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la
Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive
seafood section, as well as a large offering of
cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a
bakery, where you can either eat your
delicacies or get them to go. The shop kittycorner has a full floor of sweets and savory
items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for
friends or yourself. There’s also a café
upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated
to wine below.
Points of Interest Addresses
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
Louvre, rue de Rivoli
Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 60
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli
Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli
Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries
Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde
Place de la Concorde
Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde
W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli
Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon
Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 10
Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 50
Place Vendôme
Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme
Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou
Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra
Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines,
01 40 07 36 36
Place de la Madeleine
Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine
Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine
Eglise de la Madeleine
Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard
(21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon.
Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh
produce, desserts and wine. Buy something
for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in
the restaurant upstairs, which features the
best of Hédiard’s products.
End your tour in the center of the plaza at the
21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806
Napoleon gave instructions to build a
“Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall,
there were delays that prevented the church
from opening until 1842. Check the schedules
to try and catch a concert in the traditional
basilica.
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
47
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
48
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Cont.
1. Rue du Faubourg du Temple
and the quai de Jemmapes
2. La Marine
3. Chez Prune
4. Jours de Fête
5.
6.
7.
8.
L’Hôpital Saint-Louis
Le Cambodge
Philou
Marty Tattoo
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
49
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Cont.
9. Square Sainte-Marthe
10. La Sardine
11. Le Galopin
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Pink Flamingo
La Chambre aux Oiseaux
Pop Market
Graffiti by Chanoir
La Cantine de Quentin
Vintage Fripes et Objets
L’Hôtel du Nord
Le Citizen
Bleuet Coquelicot
Carmen Ragosta
Ethicando
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
Bensimon
Artazart
Boulanger et Pâtisserie
Fuxia
Le Petite Focan
La Piñata
La Galerie Végétal
Philippe le Libraire
Sol Semilla
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
50
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
32.
33.
34.
35.
Cont.
Atelier-Galerie
Jardin Villemin
Antoine et Lili
Sandro
36. Marcel
37. Canaletto Caffè
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
Agnès B.
Les Petites
WeSC
Claudie Pierlot
Maje
APC
Centre Commercial
Du Pain et des Idées
Coin Canal
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
51
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
Cont.
Alhambra
Agnès B. Homme
Les Chemins Blancs
Renhsen
Bel Air
Ideco
Liza Korn
Cotélac
Bazar Ethic
The Kooples
Ekyog
IKKS
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
52
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Note: The canal Saint-Martin area is one of the most
exciting and up-and-coming areas in town. Stroll this
area around the canal at your leisure, as it is chockful of
wonderful restaurants, artistic shops and great graffiti.
The tour should take you 3-4 hours, depending on how
long you linger. Toward the end, you’ll find two streets
filled with designer discount shops. Come back to the
area and take a bike ride along the canal, or consider
doing the entire tour via bike.
Begin at the intersection of 1. rue du Faubourg
du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes. You will
see a beautiful statue of a grisette, a French working-class woman from the late 17th century, on the
left, and facing the canal, you will see a bust of
Frédérick Lemaître, a famous 19th-century Parisian
theatre actor. The canal, which is 4.5 kilometers
(about 3 miles) long and stretches through the 10th
Arrondissement, was commissioned in 1802 by
Napoleon and completed in 1825.
Go up the right, or east, side of the quai de Jemmapes. Walking right along the canal, you’ll see
its different levels. You can take the canal cruise
(http://www.canauxrama.com), but we find it a bit
touristy.
At any point, you can walk over the high bridges,
from where you can enjoy beautiful views and take
a few photos. Along the canal, there are several
restaurants that we like. At the corner of rue Alibert on the left side of the canal is 2. la Marine (55,
quai de Valmy), which is a good place for lunch or
dinner by the second bridge. At the next bridge to
the north, you’ll find 3. Chez Prune (36, rue
Beaurepaire), which is a very trendy, fun place to
go for a drink or dinner. We like the steak frites and
the bohemian atmosphere there. Also, 4. Jours
de Fête, on the right side of the canal (72, quai de
Jemmapes), is a cute tapas place.
Cont.
Continue walking along the canal on the right side
until you reach avenue Richerand. Take a right and
go into the courtyard of 5. l’Hôpital Saint-Louis,
founded in the early 17th century during the reign of
Henri IV, and which is nearly an exact replica of the
Place des Vosges. Before you reach the hospital,
you’ll pass two restaurants on avenue Richerand
that are both recommended by le Fooding. The
first is 6. le Cambodge (10, avenue Richerand),
a Cambodian restaurant; be sure to go early or be
prepared to wait in line. The second is the wellknown wine bar 7. Philou (12, avenue Richerand).
It’s a great place to return to at night or even for
lunch if you can get a reservation.
A couple doors down from Philou on the right side,
you will see 8. Marty Tattoo (16, avenue Richerand). The studio offers gorgeous, artistic tattoos,
and if you are not ready to get a permanent one,
you can get a temporary.
At the end of avenue Richerand, turn right and
you’ll find on your left the entrance to 5. l’Hôpital
Saint Louis, which has a brick facade. Use the
pedestrian entrance (there are two separate doors
to go through before you reach the inside of the
courtyard, and the second is called Porte 11). The
door is shut on Saturday, Sunday and holidays.
Once inside, you’ll quickly notice the resemblance
to the Place des Vosges, but it is infinitely quieter
and more peaceful here.
Walk to the other side and exit on rue Juliette Dodu,
then take a right and walk until the road ends.
Take another right and continue until you reach rue
Saint-Maur, where you’ll turn left. When you reach
rue Sainte-Marthe, turn left again. At the end of
this street, you’ll find the darling 9. Square SainteMarthe, where there are two good restaurants:
10. la Sardine (32, rue Sainte-Marthe) and 11. le
Galopin (34, rue Sainte-Marthe). The first is better
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
53
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
for drinks and tapas, while the latter is wonderful
for more-upscale French food at a decent price.
Either is worth a return trip for dinner. Reserve
ahead for le Galopin.
Retrace your steps, either going back through
the hospital or around it to end up on rue Bichat.
Turn right if you are exiting the hospital. Down this
street you’ll find the 12. Pink Flamingo (67, rue
Bichat), a fun place for pizza on the corner of rue
Bichat and rue de la Grange aux Belles.
Continue along rue Bichat, where you’ll find 13.
la Chambre aux Oiseaux** (48, rue Bichat),
which is perfect for tea or brunch. Next door, 14.
Pop Market (50, rue Bichat) is filled with small,
fun gifts. As you walk toward the canal, on the
left you’ll discover animal graffiti by the artist 15.
Chanoir; on the right you’ll see 16. la Cantine de
Quentin (52, rue Bichat), which is a great little
wine bar that offers many items to buy or take out,
including foie gras. Follow rue Bichat until it ends
at the canal.
After passing the cat grafitti on your left, turn left
and notice the interesting doors and their handles. Head back south on rue Jemmapes to find
a charming little shop that has a green facade and
the word “Brocante” on it. The store, 17. Vintage
Fripes et Objets (104, quai de Jemmapes),
carries vintage clothing and a few small antiques.
Farther down is 18. l’Hôtel du Nord (102, quai
de Jemmapes), a chic and trendy spot for lunch
or dinner, with candlelit tables, and which is larger
than it appears from the outside. The food is not
amazing, but you can go for the basics and enjoy
the people-watching.
At the corner of the quai de Jemmapes and rue de
la Grange aux Belles is 19. le Citizen** (96, quai
de Jemmapes), a designer boutique hotel we
Cont.
highly recommend. It is an excellent, very affordable place to stay. If you are a fan of florists, take
a left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles and you’ll
discover a particularly lovely one on the right side,
20. Bleuet Coquelicot (10, rue de la Grange aux
Belles). You’ll find delightful items here. Walking
back toward the canal, you’ll notice 21. Carmen
Ragosta (8, rue de la Grange aux Belles), A boutique and restaurant, cleverly satiating two desires
at once! Next door is 22. Ethicando (6, rue de la
Grange aux Belles), a casual Italian concept store/
café/épicerie.
Returning to the quai de Jemmapes, cross over
the canal to reach rue de Lancry. At the corner of
the quai de Valmy, you’ll spot 23. Bensimon and
24. Artazart (both at 83, quai de Valmy). Step
inside Artazart, an art and design bookshop with a
selection of gifts. Bensimon is of course famous for
its French tennis shoes, and at this particular shop
there are also items for children.
Walk down rue de Lancry and check out the 25.
Boulanger et Pâtisserie (58, rue de Lancry) on
the corner, which looks quite charming and sits
across from 26. Fuxia (15, rue Jean Poulmarch),
an Italian chain that’s great for quick salads and
pasta. From Fuxia, if you turn around and take rue
Jean Poulmarch toward the canal, you’ll find more
graffiti.
If you’re interested in gifts for children, walk down
rue des Vinaigriers to 27. le Petite Focan (25, rue
des Vinaigriers). In the same building is 28. la
Piñata, which offers Mexican-inspired items. Next
door is 29. la Galerie Végétal (27, rue des Vinaigriers), a stunning florist that carries small gifts.
Farther down the street is 30. Philippe le Libraire
(32, rue des Vinaigriers), a shop that sells comic
books. A good place to stop for coffee or a healthy
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
54
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
glass of juice is 31. Sol Semilla (23, rue de Vinaigriers); the purple power mix is recommended.
When you reach rue Lucien Sampaix, turn right,
and then left onto rue des Récollets. Look for the
32. Atelier-Galerie (13, rue des Récollets), the studio
of ceramic artist Emmanuelle Wittmann, where her
pottery is sold and courses are offered.
Continuing along, look for a grand entrance marked
“hôpital militaire Villemin” and enter the 33. Jardin Villemin. The park was created in 1977 on the grounds
of a former military hospital. When you enter the park,
walk to the right along the dirt path and you’ll notice
a beautiful green sculpture. There will also be a sign
for public restrooms. Stay to the right, heading back
toward the canal. On the right side you’ll find a lovely, if
a bit unattended, herb garden.
Exit here, back onto the quai de Valmy. Turn right
and you’ll spot three 34. Antoine et Lili (95, quai de
Valmy) stores with very colorful facades. After stopping in, walk south along the canal past them. Next
you’ll see 35. Sandro (93, quai de Valmy). Much less
colorful and more practical than Antoine et Lili, Sandro
carries men’s and women’s clothes. Continue past the
graffiti and past rue de Lancry until you reach rue de
Marseille. Keep in mind for later two restaurants you’ll
have passed on the other side of the canal: both 36.
Marcel (90, quai de Jemmapes) and 37. Canaletto
Caffè (88, quai de Jemmapes) are good restaurants
with excellent reviews. Turn right on rue de Marseille.
On the right side you’ll quickly see 38. Agnès B. (13,
rue de Marseille) and then 39. les Petites (11, rue de
Marseille), a stock store that offers discounted items.
Next door is 40. WeSC, We Are the Superlative
Conspiracy (9, rue de Marseille), which has primarily
men’s clothes and is worth a look. The 41. Claudie
Pierlot (6, rue de Marseille) stock store offers sophisticated clothing for the fashionable set. Another great
stock-store find is 42. Maje (4, rue de Marseille),
which carries items designed by the much-loved
Cont.
French brand. Farther down is 43. APC (5, rue de
Marseille), which, unfortunately, is not a stock store.
A very unique and well-designed store, 44. Centre
Commercial (2, rue de Marseille) has clothing for
men and women and some vintage furniture. Next
door on the corner, on rue Yves Toudic, is the boulangerie 45. du Pain et des Idées (34, rue Yves
Toudic), which was voted the best boulangerie in
Paris in 2008.
Across the street is 46. Coin Canal (1, rue de
Marseille), a good stop for 20th-century interior
designs. When you reach rue Yves Toudic, turn left
and walk down the street until you see the sign for
47. Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a theatre
where you can see plays as well as music and
comedy performances. Check to see if there is an
event you’d like to come back for.
At the corner of rue Beaurepaire, you’ll see 48.
Agnès B. Homme (1, rue Dieu). Take a left on
rue Beaurepaire and you’ll find more shopping. For
made-in-France apparel, stop at 49. les Chemins
Blancs (20, rue Beaurepaire). Farther down is
50. Renhsen (22, rue Beaurepaire), which carries
its own popular line of jeans as well as Swildens
T-shirts and bohemian accessories. The stock store
of 51. Bel Air (22, rue Beaurepaire) offers very
feminine clothing. Across the street at 52. Ideco
(19, rue Beaurepaire), you’ll find fun gifts including
Pantone iPhone covers, postcards and journals.
Next door is 53. Liza Korn (19, rue Beaurepaire),
which offers clothing for women and children as
well as home and baby linens.
Continuing along, you’ll find gorgeous clothing for
men and women at 54. Cotélac (30, rue Beaurepaire). Across the street is the fair-trade store 55.
Bazar Ethic (25, rue Beaurepaire). A Parisian
chain store, 56. The Kooples (32, rue Beaure-
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
55
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
paire) offers good-looking suits for men and women, as well as hip rags for a night out on the town.
The stock store of 57. Ekyog (33, rue Beaurepaire), an accomplished Korean designer, is also
on this street. Always worth a stop is 58. IKKS (34,
rue Beaurepaire).
At the end of the street, facing the canal, celebrate
with a drink at Chez Prune. You’ve covered the best
parts of the 10th Arrondissement and the trendy
Cont.
canal Saint-Martin area. Enjoy people-watching on
Chez Prune’s terrace. Or take a right on the quai
de Valmy and follow the canal a bit farther down
to look for la Caroline, a boat that houses la Cave
Vagabonde, also known as the wine barge. It is
often on the canal and specializes in wines from the
Yonne region (part of Burgundy). Here you might
want to hop aboard and enjoy a glass of wine and
some charcuterie.
Points of Interest
La Marine: 55, quai de Valmy Tel: 01 42 39 69 81
Chez Prune: 36, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 41 30 47
Jours de Fete: 72, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 47 03 63 11
Le Cambodge: 10, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 44 84 37 70
Philou: 12, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 42 38 00 13
Marty Tattoo: 16, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 42 39 89 81
La Sardine: 32, rue Sainte-Marthe Tel: 01 42 49 19 46
Le Galopin: 34, rue Sainte-Marthe Tel: 01 42 06 05 03
Pink Flamingo: 67, rue Bichat Tel: 1 42 02 31 70
La Chambre aux Oiseaux**: 48, rue Bichat Tel: 01 40 18 98 49
Pop Market: 50, rue Bichat Tel: 09 52 79 96 86 La Cantine de Quentin: 52, rue Bichat Tel: 01 42 02 40 32
Vintage Fripes et Objets: 104, quai de Jemmapes
L’Hôtel du Nord: 102, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 40 40 78 78
Le Citizen**: 96, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 83 62 55 50
Bleuet Coquelicot: 10, rue de la Grange aux Belles Tel: 01 42 41 21 35
Carmen Ragosta: 8, rue de la Grange aux Belles Tel: 01 42 49 00 71
Ethicando: 6, rue de la Grange aux Belles
Bensimon: 83, quai de Valmy
Artazart: 83, quai de Valmy
Boulanger et Pâtisserie: 58, rue de Lancry
Fuxia: 15, rue Jean Poulmarch Tel: 01 42 01 30 90
Le Petite Focan: 25, rue des Vinaigriers
La Piñata: 25, rue des Vinaigriers
La Galerie Végétal: 27, rue des Vinaigriers
Philippe le Libraire: 32, rue des Vinaigriers
Sol Semilla: 23, rue de Vinaigriers
Atelier-Galerie: 13, rue des Récollets
Antoine et Lili: 95, quai de Valmy
Sandro: 93, quai de Valmy
Marcel: 90, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 42 03 57 20
Canaletto Caffè: 88, quai de Jemm. Tel: 01 40 40 05 05
Agnès B.: 13, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 06 66 58
Les Petites: 11, rue de Marseille WeSC: 9, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 39 19 49
Claudie Pierlot: 6, rue de Marseille
Maje: 4, rue de Marseille APC: 5, rue de Marseille
Centre Commercial: 2, rue de Marseille
Du Pain et des Idées: 34, rue Yves Toudic Tel: 01 42 40 44 52 Coin Canal: 1, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 38 00 30
Alhambra: 21, rue Yves Toudic Tel: 01 40 20 40 25
Agnès B. Homme: 1, rue Dieu Tel: 01 42 03 47 99
Les Chemins Blancs: 20, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 18 32 69
Renhsen: 22, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 48 04 01 01
Bel Air: 22, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 01 19 69 Ideco: 19, rue Beaurepaire
Liza Korn: 19, rue Beaurepaire
Cotélac: 30, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 53 38 13 08
Bazar Ethic: 25, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 00 15 73
The Kooples: 32, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 18 37 41
Ekyog: 33, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 40 95 12
IKKS: 34, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 0 1 42 03 19 77
**Girls’ Guide to Paris Travel Club Partner: All GGTP Club Members receive discounts and
VIP treatment here and at over 200 other partners. Visit our website for more information.
2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
56