MILADY
Standard
AUTHORS FOR
2012 EDITION:
Catherine M. Frangie
Alisha Rimando Botero
Colleen Hennessey
Dr. Mark Lees
Bonnie Sanford
Frank Shipman
Victoria Wurdinger
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
FOR 2012 EDITION:
John Halal
Randy Ferman
Jim McConnell
Janet McCormick
Vicki Peters
Douglas Schoon
Cosmetology
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Singapore
Spain
United Kingdom
United States
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Milady Standard Cosmetology
Author: Milady
President, Milady: Dawn Gerrain
Senior Product Manager: Philip Mandl
Editorial Assistant: Maria K. Hebert
Director of Beauty Industry Relations:
Sandra Bruce
Executive Marketing Manager:
Gerard McAvey
Production Director: Wendy Troeger
Senior Content Project Manager:
Angela Sheehan
Senior Content Project Manager:
Nina Tucciarelli
Design Director: Bruce Bond
Art Director: Benj Gleeksman
Senior Art Director: Joy Kocsis
Cover and title page photo:
© Adrianna Williams/Corbis
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2007941007
Hardcover
ISBN-13: 978-1-4390-5930-2
ISBN-10: 1-4390-5930-6
Softcover
ISBN-13: 978-1-4390-5929-6
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Printed in the United States of America
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Contents in Brief
1
2
3
4
Orientation / 1
History and Career Opportunities / 2
Life Skills / 16
Your Professional Image / 34
Communicating for Success / 44
22
Hair Removal / 686
23 Facials / 708
24 Facial Makeup / 756
General Sciences / 65
5 Infection Control:
Principles and Practices / 66
6 General Anatomy and Physiology / 108
7 Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition / 154
8 Skin Disorders and Diseases / 174
9 Nail Structure and Growth / 196
10 Nail Disorders and Diseases / 204
11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp / 218
12 Basics of Chemistry / 244
13 Basics of Electricity / 262
Skin Care / 685
nail Care / 791
25 Manicuring / 792
26 Pedicuring / 842
27 Nail Tips and Wraps / 872
28Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Nail Enhancements / 896
29 UV Gels / 924
business skills / 955
30 Seeking Employment / 956
31 On the Job / 984
32 The Salon Business / 1006
Hair Care / 281
14 Principles of Hair Design / 282
15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and
Conditioning / 306
16 Haircutting / 342
17 Hairstyling / 418
18 Braiding and Braid Extensions / 506
19 Wigs and Hair Additions / 538
20 Chemical Texture Services / 562
21 Haircoloring / 626
Appendix A
Associations / 1031
Appendix B
Metric Conversions / 1032
Glossary/Index / 1034
iii
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Table of Contents
Procedures at a Glance / viii
4 Communicating for Success / 44
Why Study Communicating for Success? / 46
Human Relations / 46
Communication Basics / 49
The Client Consultation/Needs Assessment / 52
Special Issues in Communication / 57
In-Salon Communication / 60
Preface / xi
Foreword: A Little Advice from Successful
Professionals / xi
New to this Edition / xvi
Additional Features of this Edition / xix
Educational Chapter Formatting / xxi
Extensive Learning and Teaching Package / xxiii
Educator Supplements / xxvii
Contributing Authors / xxviii
Editorial Contributors for the 2012 Edition / xxxii
Part 2 General
5 Infection Control: Principles and Practices / 66
Reviewers / xxxvi
/1
1 History and Career Opportunities / 2
6 General Anatomy and Physiology / 108
Why Study Anatomy and Physiology? / 112
Anatomy, Physiology, and You / 112
Cells / 113
Tissues / 114
Organs and Body Systems / 114
The Skeletal System / 115
The Muscular System / 120
The Nervous System / 126
The Circulatory System / 131
The Lymphatic/Immune System / 137
The Endocrine System / 137
The Digestive System / 138
The Excretory System / 139
The Respiratory System / 140
The Integumentary System / 140
The Reproductive System / 141
Why Study Cosmetology History and
Career Opportunities? / 4
Brief History of Cosmetology / 4
Career Paths for Cosmetologists / 9
2 Life Skills / 16
Why Study Life Skills? / 18
Life Skills / 18
The Psychology of Success / 19
Managing Your Career / 22
Goal Setting / 24
Time Management / 26
Study Skills / 28
Ethics / 29
Personality Development and Attitude / 31
3 Your Professional Image / 34
Why Study the Importance
of Your Professional Image? / 36
Beauty and Wellness / 37
Appearances Count / 38
Your Physical Presentation / 40
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Why Study Infection Control? / 69
Regulation / 69
Principles of Infection / 72
Principles of Prevention / 82
Universal Precautions / 92
The Professional Salon Image / 94
Procedures / 96
Acknowledgments / xxxv
Part 1 Orientation
Sciences / 65
7Skin Structure, Growth, and
Nutrition / 154
Why Study Skin Structure, Growth, and
Nutrition? / 156
Anatomy of the Skin / 156
Nutrition and Maintaining Skin Health / 164
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8 Skin Disorders and Diseases / 174
Why Study Skin Disorders and Diseases? / 177
Disorders and Diseases of the Skin / 177
Disorders of the Sebaceous (Oil) Glands / 180
Disorders of the Sudoriferous (Sweat) Glands / 181
Inflammations and Common Infections of the Skin / 182
Pigment Disorders of the Skin /182
Hypertrophies of the Skin / 184
Skin Cancer / 184
Acne and Problem Skin / 186
Aging Skin Issues / 187
The Sun and Its Effects / 189
Contact Dermatitis / 190
9 Nail Structure and Growth / 196
Why Study Nail Structure and Growth? / 198
The Natural Nail / 198
Nail Anatomy / 199
Nail Growth / 201
Know Your Nails / 202
10Nail Disorders and Diseases / 204
Why Study Nail Disorders and Diseases? / 206
Nail Disorders / 206
Nail Diseases / 212
11Properties of the Hair and Scalp / 218
Why Study Properties of the Hair and Scalp? / 220
Structure of the Hair / 220
Chemical Composition of Hair / 222
Hair Growth / 227
Hair Loss / 229
Disorders of the Hair / 232
Disorders of the Scalp / 233
Hair and Scalp Analysis / 236
12Basics of Chemistry / 244
Why Study Basics of Chemistry? / 246
Chemistry / 246
Matter / 247
Potential Hydrogen (pH) / 256
13Basics of Electricity / 262
Why Study Basics of Electricity? / 264
Electricity / 264
Electrical Equipment Safety / 266
Electrotherapy / 269
Other Electrical Equipment / 271
Light Energy and Light Therapy/ 272
Part 3 Hair Care
/ 281
14Principles of Hair Design / 282
Why Study Principles of Hair Design? / 284
Philosophy of Design / 284
Elements of Hair Design / 285
Principles of Hair Design / 290
Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle / 293
Creating Harmony between Hairstyle
and Facial Structure / 295
Designing for Men / 303
15Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning / 306
Why Study Scalp Care, Shampooing,
and Conditioning? / 308
Scalp Care and Massage / 308
Hair Brushing / 310
Understanding Shampoo / 311
Understanding Conditioner / 318
Draping / 320
Three-Part Procedure / 322
Procedures / 323
16Haircutting / 342
Why Study Haircutting? / 344
Basic Principles of Haircutting / 344
Client Consultation / 350
Haircutting Tools / 353
Posture and Body Position / 364
Safety in Haircutting / 365
Basic Haircuts / 366
Other Cutting Techniques / 371
Clippers and Trimmers / 380
Procedures / 384
17Hairstyling / 418
Why Study Hairstyling? / 420
Client Consultation / 420
Wet Hairstyling Basics / 421
Finger Waving / 421
Pin Curls / 422
Roller Curls / 426
Comb-Out Techniques / 429
Hair Wrapping / 431
Blowdry Styling / 431
Thermal Hairstyling / 435
Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) / 441
Styling Long Hair / 446
Formal Styling / 447
The Artistry of Hairstyling / 447
Procedures / 448
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18Braiding and Braid Extensions / 506
Why Study Braiding and Braid Extensions? / 508
Understanding the Basics / 509
Braiding the Hair / 514
Procedures / 520
19Wigs and Hair Additions / 538
Why Study Wigs and Hair Additions? / 541
Human versus Synthetic Hair / 541
Wigs / 544
Hairpieces / 550
Hair Extensions / 553
20Chemical Texture Services / 562
Why Study Chemical Texture Services? / 564
The Structure of Hair / 564
Permanent Waving / 567
Chemical Hair Relaxers / 583
Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) / 591
Procedures / 593
21Haircoloring / 626
Why Study Haircoloring? / 629
Why People Color Their Hair / 629
Hair Facts / 630
Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone / 631
Types of Haircolor / 636
Consultation / 642
Haircolor Formulation/ 643
Haircolor Applications / 647
Using Lighteners / 650
Using Toners / 652
Special Effects Haircoloring / 653
Special Challenges in Haircolor/
Corrective Solutions / 655
Haircoloring Safety Precautions / 663
Procedures / 664
Part 4 Skin Care
/ 685
22Hair Removal / 686
Why Study Hair Removal? / 688
Client Consultation / 689
Contraindications for Hair Removal / 690
Permanent Hair Removal / 692
Temporary Hair Removal / 693
Procedures / 696
23Facials / 708
Why Study Facials? / 710
Skin Analysis and Consultation / 710
Determining Skin Type / 716
Skin Care Products / 718
Client Consultation / 723
Facial Massage / 725
Facial Equipment / 733
Electrotherapy and Light Therapy / 734
Facial Treatments / 737
Aromatherapy / 740
Procedures / 741
24Facial Makeup / 756
Why Study Facial Makeup? / 758
Cosmetics for Facial Makeup / 758
Makeup Color Theory / 767
Basic Professional Makeup Application / 771
Special-Occasion Makeup / 773
Corrective Makeup / 774
Artificial Eyelashes / 783
Procedures / 784
Part 5 nail Care
/ 791
25Manicuring / 792
Why Study Manicuring? / 794
Nail Technology Tools / 794
Professional Cosmetic Products / 803
The Basic Manicure / 807
A Man’s Manicure Service / 810
Massage / 811
Spa Manicures / 813
Aromatherapy / 814
Paraffin Wax Treatments / 815
Nail Art / 816
Only the Beginning / 816
Procedures / 817
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26 Pedicuring / 842
Why Study Pedicuring? / 844
Pedicure Tools / 845
About Pedicures / 851
Disinfection / 859
Procedures / 863
27Nail Tips and Wraps / 872
Why Study Nail Tips and Wraps? / 874
Nail Tips / 874
Nail Wraps / 876
Nail Wrap Maintenance, Repair, and Removal / 877
Procedures / 879
28Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 896
Why Study Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Nail Enhancements? / 898
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder
Nail Enhancements / 898
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancement Supplies / 901
Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancement Maintenance, Crack Repair,
and Removal / 904
Odorless Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Products / 906
Colored Polymer Powder Products / 907
Procedures / 908
29UV Gels / 924
Why Study UV Gels? / 926
UV Gels / 926
UV Gel Supplies / 929
When to Use UV Gels / 931
Choosing the Proper UV Gel / 931
UV Light Units and Lamps / 932
UV Gel Polish / 933
UV Gel Maintenance and Removal / 934
Procedures / 935
Part 6 business skills / 955
30Seeking Employment / 956
Why Study How to Prepare for and Seek
Employment? / 958
Preparing for Licensure / 958
Preparing for Employment / 963
The Job Interview / 974
31On the Job / 984
Why Study What It Is Like on the Job? / 986
Moving from School to Work / 986
Out in the Real World / 987
Managing Your Money / 993
Discover the Selling You / 996
Keeping Current Clients and Expanding
Your Client Base / 1001
On Your Way / 1004
32The Salon Business / 1006
Why Study the Salon Business? / 1008
Going into Business for Yourself / 1008
Operating a Successful Salon / 1019
Building Your Business / 1026
Appendix A
Associations / 1031
Appendix B
Metric Conversions / 1032
Glossary/Index / 1034
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Procedures at a Glance
5–1
isinfecting Nonelectrical Tools and
D
Implements / 96
5–2
Disinfecting Foot Spas or Basins / 97
5–3
Proper Hand Washing / 102
16–4 L ong-Layered (180-Degree) Haircut:
Right-Handed / 408
16–4 L ong-Layered (180-Degree) Haircut: LeftHanded / 411
16–5 Men’s Basic Clipper Cut / 413
17–1 Preparing Hair for Wet Styling / 448
15–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 323
15–2 Post-Service Procedure / 326
15–3 Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment / 328
15–4Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment / 329
15–5 Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment /330
15–6 Antidandruff Treatment / 331
15–7 Hair Brushing / 332
15–8 D
raping for a Basic Shampooing and
Conditioning / 333
15–9 Draping for a Chemical Service / 334
15–10 Basic Shampooing and Conditioning / 335
15–11 Scalp Massage / 338
16–1 B
lunt Haircut with Fringe:
Right-Handed / 384
16–1 B
lunt Haircut with Fringe:
Left-Handed / 388
16–2 Graduated Haircut: Right-Handed / 392
16–2 Graduated Haircut: Left-Handed / 397
16–3 U
niform-Layered Haircut:
Right-Handed / 401
16–3 U
niform-Layered Haircut:
Left-Handed / 405
17–2Horizontal Finger Waving:
Right-Handed / 450
17–2 H
orizontal Finger Waving:
Left-Handed / 454
17–3 C
arved or Sculpted Curls:
Right-Handed / 457
17–3 C
arved or Sculpted Curls:
Left-Handed / 459
17–4 Wet Set with Rollers / 461
17–5 Hair Wrapping / 463
17–6Blowdrying Short, Layered, Curly Hair
to Produce Smooth and Full Finish: Right-Handed / 465
17–6 B
lowdrying Short, Layered, Curly Hair
to Produce Smooth and Full Finish: Left-Handed / 467
17–7 B
lowdrying Short, Curly Hair in Its Natural
Wave Pattern / 469
17–8 D
iffusing Long, Curly, or Extremely Curly
Hair in Its Natural Wave Pattern / 471
17–9 B
lowdrying Straight or Wavy Hair for
Maximum Volume: Right-Handed / 472
17–9 B
lowdrying Straight or Wavy Hair for
Maximum Volume: Left-Handed / 474
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17–10 B
lowdrying Blunt or Long-Layered, Straight
to Wavy Hair into a Straight Style: Right- Handed / 476
17–10 B
lowdrying Blunt or Long-Layered, Straight
to Wavy Hair into a Straight Style: LeftHanded / 479
17–11Thermal Waving: Right-Handed / 481
17–11Thermal Waving: Left-Handed / 484
17–12 Curling Short Hair / 487
17–13Curling Medium-Length Hair / 489
17–14Curling Hair Using Two Loops or
Figure 8 / 491
17–15Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair / 493
17–16 Knot or Chignon / 496
17–17 Twist / 498
17–18 Pleat / 500
18–1 Preparing Textured Hair for Braiding / 520
18–2 Rope Braid / 522
18–3 Fishtail Braid / 524
18–4 Invisible Braid / 526
18–5Single Braids without Extensions / 528
20–3Permanent Wave and Processing Using a
Curvature Permanent Wrap / 598
20–4Permanent Wave and Processing Using a
Bricklay Permanent Wrap / 601
20–5Permanent Wave and Processing Using a
Weave Technique / 603
20–6Permanent Wave and Processing Using a
Double-Rod or Piggyback Technique / 605
20–7Permanent Wave and Processing Using a
Spiral Wrap Technique / 607
20–8 Applying Thio Relaxer to Virgin Hair / 610
20–9 Thio Relaxer Retouch / 612
20–10Applying Hydroxide Relaxer to Virgin
Hair / 614
20–11Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch / 617
20–12 Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Perm) / 620
21–1 Performing a Patch Test / 664
21–2 Preliminary Strand Test / 665
21–3Temporary Haircolor Application / 667
21–4Semipermanent Haircolor Application / 669
21–5Single-Process Color on Virgin Hair / 671
18–6Single Braids with Extensions / 530
21–6Permanent Single-Process Retouch with a
Glaze / 673
18–7 Basic Cornrows / 533
21–7 Lightening Virgin Hair / 675
18–8 Cornrows with Extensions / 535
21–8 Toner Application / 677
20–1 P
reliminary Test Curl for a Permanent
Wave / 593
21–9 S
pecial Effects Haircoloring with Foil
(Full Head) / 679
20–2 P
ermanent Wave and Processing Using a
Basic Permanent Wrap / 595
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27–1Nail Tip Application / 879
22–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 696
27–2 Nail Tip Removal / 882
22–2 Post-Service Procedure / 699
27–3Nail Wrap Application / 884
22–3 Eyebrow Tweezing / 701
27–4Two-Week Fabric Wrap Maintenance / 887
22–4 Eyebrow Waxing / 703
27–5 F our-Week Fabric Wrap
Maintenance / 889
22–5 Body Waxing / 705
23–1 Basic Facial / 741
23–2 Facial for Dry Skin / 746
23–3 F acial for Oily Skin with Open Comedones
(Blackheads) / 748
27–6 Fabric Wrap Removal / 892
28–1One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Nail Enhancements over Nail Tips or Natural Nails / 908
23–4 F acial for Acne-Prone and Problem
Skin / 751
28–2 T wo-Color Monomer Liquid and
Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Using Forms / 912
24–1 B
asic Professional Makeup
Application / 784
28–3One-Color Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Maintenance / 916
24–2 Band Lash Application / 787
28–4 C
rack Repair for Monomer Liquid and
Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 919
25–1 Pre-Service Procedure / 817
25–2 Post-Service Procedure / 821
28–5 M
onomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancement Removal / 921
25–3 Proper Hand Washing / 823
29–1 O
ne-Color Method UV Gel on Tips or
Natural Nails with UV Gel Polish / 935
25–4 H
andling an Exposure Incident During
a Manicure / 824
29–2 T wo-Color Method UV Gel on Tips or
Natural Nails / 939
25–5 Performing a Basic Manicure / 826
29–3 UV Gel over Forms / 942
25–6 Hand and Arm Massage / 831
29–4 UV Gel Maintenance / 945
25–7 Polishing the Nails / 835
25–8 Paraffin Wax Treatment / 837
29–5 U
V Gel over Monomer Liquid and Polymer
Powder Nail Enhancements with UV Gel Polish / 948
26–1 The Basic Pedicure / 863
29–6 UV Gel Removal—Hard Gel / 950
26–2 Foot and Leg Massage / 867
29–7 UV Gel Removal—Soft Gel / 951
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Preface
Milady Standard Cosmetology
Congratulations! You are about to begin a journey that can take you in
many directions and that holds the potential to make you a confident,
successful professional in cosmetology. As a cosmetologist, you will become
a trusted professional, the person your clients rely on to provide ongoing
services that enable them to look and feel their best. You will become as
personally involved in your clients’ lives as their physicians or dentists,
and with study and practice, you will have the opportunity to showcase
your artistic and creative ideas for the entire world to see!
Milady employs experts from all aspects of the beauty profession—hair
care, skin care, nail care, massage, makeup, infection control, and business
development—to write for and consult on every textbook published. Since
the field of cosmetology is always changing, progressing, and discovering
new technologies, services, and styles, Milady keeps a close eye on its texts
and is committed to investing the time, energy, resources, and efforts to
revising its educational offerings to provide the beauty industry with the
most up-to-date and all-encompassing tools available.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
You and your school have chosen the perfect course of study to
accomplish all of this and more. Milady Standard Cosmetology was
the creation of Nicholas F. Cimaglia, founder of Milady Publishing
Company, in 1927. The very first edition of Milady Standard Cosmetology
was published in 1938, and since that time, it has consistently been the
most-used cosmetology textbook in the world. Many of the world’s most
famous, sought-after, successful, and artistic professional cosmetologists
have studied this very book!
r. Nicholas F. Cimaglia, Founder
M
of Milady Publishing Company.
So you see, by studying the Milady Standard Cosmetology, you have not
simply opened the cover of a textbook, you’ve been adopted by a family
of the most well-known and highly respected professional cosmetology
educators in the world!
Foreword
A Little Advice from Successful Professionals
You have one decision to make today: Are you going to be your very best self or
just get by? That’s it. After all, 90 percent of success is showing up, mentally—
and physically. Are you committed to putting a laser focus on learning?
Education makes your life better, happier, richer. Specialized learning builds
confidence, leads to a specific career, and opens dozens of unexpected doors.
And if you listen to those who have already traversed the path before you,
cosmetology training will provide you with the foundation for an exciting,
artistic, limitless career that can fulfill what celebrity stylist Ted Gibson calls
“Your Big, BIG dream.”
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The Road to Success
Before you compose your own song of success, take stock of what it
will take: hard work, dedication, and plenty of practice. If you’ve been
styling friends’ hair since you were ten, you may think you know a lot
already, but that’s a trap.
Beth Minardi didn’t become the country’s most accomplished haircolor
educator or premiere Manhattan salon owner by happenstance. When
she recognized that haircolor was uniquely challenging, she did what
all super-successful hairdressers do—she took a chance in order to
learn all she could. Armed with a B.A. in Education and Theatre
and a cosmetology license, she applied for a job with Clairol. Of her
four weeks in training, the first was spent on semipermanent color,
the second on the lift and deposit shades, the third on bleaching and
toning, and the fourth on special effects.
“ Being a hairdresser is like being an
athlete. Work hard, focus, and ask for more
responsibility. If you do, you’ll get the honor of being included with successful people.”
—Beth Minardi
“After each week, you were tested, and if you failed any test, you were
fired,” recalls Minardi. “It made me realize that there is no fashion
without foundation, no creativity without the basics.”
While Minardi credits her mentors for understanding that being a great
colorist meant mastering theory and all color products, she stresses that
success also requires commitment and a healthy body and mind: “When
you go to work, it’s show time; there’s no room for gossip, personal
problems or partying.”
As for creative ideas, the old adage is true: they originate from more
perspiration than inspiration. Robert Cromeans, Global Artistic Director
for Paul Mitchell and a Paul Mitchell The School owner, is known for
cutting hair with a fork, using electric clippers to create a bob, and even
using a staple gun. Here’s what he says about creative genius:
“ Developing a great habit of going to school
every day will benefit your career as a salon
professional. Motivation doesn’t change
things; good habits do.”—Robert Cromeans
“The truth of the matter is that without the foundation of
haircutting under my belt, I would never have been able to create
these techniques. It is pivotal to know and understand the rules
before you can break them.”
Robert Cromeans. Photo courtesy of John Paul Mitchell Systems.
“ All my training was the best, because now
I can say I am a beauty school graduate and
very proud of it. I feel fortunate to have found
what makes my heart sing.”—Ted Gibson
Ted Gibson styling actress Anne Hathaway. Photo courtesy of Ted Gibson
Celebrity Hair Stylist and Owner of the Ted Gibson Salon, NYC.
“Your cosmetology education gives you the opportunity to do so many
things, from working behind the chair to styling celebrities to doing
platform work, TV, and movies,” says Gibson. “I love this business!”
Photo courtesy of Beth Minardi, President Minardi Salon.
The 2010 host of TLC’s What Not To Wear and owner of namesake
salons in NYC and Washington, D.C., Gibson says that a solid, basic
education is vital because what you learn in beauty school will carry you
through your career:
Where Milady Comes In
As you show up each day, ready to be at your mental and physical
best, you will have the support of the hundreds of professionals who
contributed to the creation of this revised edition of Milady Standard
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Cosmetology. Milady was part of Cromeans’ cosmetology curriculum,
as well as Minardi’s and Gibson’s. Gibson says he still refers to Milady
textbooks regularly. In other words, successful stylists never stop learning.
Photo courtesy of Aviva Maller Photography.
At the Eric Fisher Academy in Wichita, KS, salon and school owner
Eric Fisher, who has won numerous artistic and business awards, chose
this very textbook for his students because he considers it the most
comprehensive one available.
Technical and Artistic Fundamentals
Look through the Table of Contents, and you’ll see everything from
cutting, coloring, perming, and relaxing to the body’s structures,
infection control, makeup application, and braiding. Within each
chapter, learning objectives are clearly established, terms are simply
defined, and review questions help you recall all you’ve learned.
“Sometimes, you don’t even know that you have stumbled upon an
aspect of the profession that you will love for the rest of your career,”
comments Colleen Hennessey, a colorist, salon owner, and P&G
School Manager Consultant. “That’s why it is important to learn all
that you can. Without being exposed to all cosmetology has to offer,
you can’t make sound choices about the direction you want to take.”
“ Don’t be afraid to admit you have to learn
more. Remember, knowledge is power.”
—Colleen Hennessey
Photo courtesy of Eric Fisher Academy-Salons.
Even if you think you already know which area of cosmetology interests
you most, developing skills in many disciplines is important because—
combined—they provide the solid foundation that can take you anywhere.
“When I went to school, I learned roller placement, how to
accommodate the hair’s movement, and how to work with bone
structure,” recalls Fisher. “I’m grateful for those basics because they
eventually allowed me to travel the world, own a successful business,
do hair for video shoots, and more. It’s like basketball: you can run,
pass, and alley-oop, but the game is won at the free throw line.
Fundamentals—strong foundations—build houses that can survive
any threat from inside or out.”
At Fisher’s Academy, the motto is student for life, and it works well.
His students have gone on to work at top New York City salons, travel
the world, and even win the student category at the North American
Hairdressing Awards (something Fisher himself won in other categories).
“Every day in school, think about the kind of person you want to
be,” advises Fisher. “You don’t have to be a superstar to achieve
greatness—repetition and practice lead to success. Offer to help others
just for the opportunity to learn. You have to do more than you get
paid for, before you can get paid for more than you do.”
“ If you practice anything for one hour every
day for 365 days, you can be a national expert.
You need the attitude that goes with it, which
means embracing the positive. Smile often.
Make others feel welcome and important.”
—Eric Fisher
Strong Interpersonal Skills
With focus, foundation, repetition, and practice, anyone can master
the technical aspects of this wonderful profession. But hairdressing
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is also an emotional field, one that requires you to be a people person.
What that really means is that you must have a positive attitude and
be able to listen, read others, and speak their language.
“Success as a hairdresser is about more than cutting and coloring
skills,” notes Nick Arrojo, who educates on platform for Wella,
oversees his New York City-based Arrojo Studio and Arrojo
Education, and preceded Gibson as the hair guru of TLC’s
What Not To Wear. “You have to be a great communicator.
You need to know the challenges of different hair types,
the importance of cleanliness, both of yourself and your
environment, and you must be able to retail.”
“ I believe anyone who shows
professionalism, discipline, and
commitment over many years of
hard work can do what I do.”
—Nick Arrojo
Photo courtesy of Jammi York/Arrojo.
That’s why this textbook includes details on conducting a great
consultation, working with difficult clients and co-workers, and other
life skills that you’ll begin to hone during the clinic phase of your
training. Throughout the chapters, activities and real-life examples
help you develop the good work habits and interpersonal skills that
accomplished professionals say are a must.
“The so-called non-artistic parts of the profession are actually
arts in themselves, because you’re learning how to communicate
with a person who has different tastes and desires than you
do,” says Minardi. “Your body language, facial expression, and
carriage are all part of being successful. After awhile, applying
color is the easier part; it takes longer to do the rest well.”
Cromeans adds that developing great habits will help you through both
the artistic and interpersonal aspects of hairdressing.
“Focus equally on your technical skills and on your dialogue, chairside manner, and ability to celebrate each (client),” he says.
Business Basics and Beyond
When it comes down to it, cosmetology comprises three tiers. First, it’s
an artistically expressive field. Second, it relies on human dynamics and
personal interaction, so that one individual can make another look and
feel fabulous. Third, cosmetology is a business.
The final chapters of this book, which you will study near the end of
your schooling, detail the employment search, the job interview, and
business basics, from salon design to personnel management. You’ll
want to refer to these chapters often as you enter the working world
and progress toward achieving your big dream.
“Your passion for the art may drive your fire, but to succeed, you also
need business discipline,” says Fisher. “Each stylist should know his or
her average service and retail ticket, retention and prebooking rates,
and future goals for next week and next month.”
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“Being a strong business person is the best way to give your creativity
the freedom to flourish,” stresses Arrojo. “You must have enough
money to pay the bills. Keep learning, stay focused, and continue
doing the right things every day. There’s no race to the finish line.
Technique, creativity, confidence, and communication can all be
taught, but only with time can you gain experience. With experience,
opportunities follow.”
Opportunities for Life
Many professionals say that as they grew into their careers, they found
themselves wishing they had paid more attention in school. They also
say that they are grateful for everything they learned, even things they
hadn’t thought useful at the time. Hairdressers are no different.
Whether you want to be a Hollywood stylist, a corporate educator, the
owner of a spa, or the world’s greatest braider, learning all you can now
and finding a great mentor will help you achieve your goal.
“Don’t get ahead of yourself and think you’re a superstar,” cautions
Hennessey. “Have a good work ethic. Be a team player. Continue
your education. And be willing to put in long hours on your feet.”
Arrojo stresses that winners are always on time, respect their peers,
and accept criticism as a positive learning experience. Cromeans advises
forming good habits and being prepared every day to go for it: “You
have to be present to win.”
“There are no shortcuts to fame,” says Minardi. “Your head, heart,
and hands are what will make you a success.”
If you’re ready to apply all three, take a big step toward your future,
and turn the page!
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
The Industry Standard
This edition of Milady Standard Cosmetology is jam-packed with new
and compelling information and photography that will enable you to
not only pass your licensing exams, but also to ensure your success once
you are on the job.
Before beginning this revision, Milady surveyed hundreds of educators
and professionals, held focus groups, and received in-depth comments
from dozens of reviewers to learn what needed to be changed, added, or
deleted from the previous edition. We then consulted with educational
experts to learn the best way to present the material, so that all types
of learners could understand and remember it. Next we went to several
experts in various cosmetology-related fields to write or revise the
chapters. Milady then held a seventeen-day photo shoot to update the
technical art for chapter and procedural steps. Finally, we sent the finished
manuscripts to yet more subject experts to ensure the accuracy and
thoroughness of the material. What you hold in your hands is the result.
Enjoy it, and best of luck as you start your career in the beauty industry.
awn Gerrain
D
President
Milady
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New to this Edition
In response to the suggestions of the cosmetology educators and
professionals who reviewed the Milady Standard Cosmetology and to
those submitted by students who use this text, this edition includes
many new features and learning tools.
Alignment
Milady has carefully aligned all of its core textbooks. This means that
information appearing in more than one text—whether it be cosmetology,
nail technology, or esthetics—now matches from one book to another.
Design Milady has also dramatically changed the design of the textbook—it
now has a very exciting fashion magazine feel—to reflect the innovative
and unique energy and artistry found in the beauty business.
Photography and Art
You’ll also notice that there are more than 750 new, four-color
photographs and illustrations throughout the book, appearing in both
chapter content and step-by-step procedures. In addition, all of the
new procedure photographs were taken using live models, instead of
mannequins.
Pre- and Post-Service Procedures
To drive home the point that pre-service cleaning, disinfecting, and
preparing for the client are important, you will find that a unique PreService Procedure has been created to specifically address the individual
needs of each Part—hair care, skin care, and nail care. Additionally, a
Post-Service Procedure has been created to address cleaning, disinfecting,
and organizing after servicing a client. Both the Pre-Service and PostService Procedures appear in every part of the text for you to quickly
and easily refer to and follow.
Why Study This?
Milady knows, understands, and appreciates how excited students
are to delve into the newest and most exciting haircutting, styling,
and coloring trends, and we recognize that students can sometimes
feel restless spending time learning the basics of the profession. To
help you understand why you are learning each chapter’s material
and to help you see the role it will play in your future career as a
cosmetologist, Milady has added this new section to each chapter.
The section includes three or four bullet points that tell you why
the material is important and how you will use the material in your
professional career.
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Left-Handed Instruction
This new edition includes left-handed procedures in the haircutting,
hairstyling, and haircoloring chapters with full color photography. For
the first time in a textbook students will see professionals using their left
hand to hold and manipulate hair and tools.
All About Shears
One of the most important and costly tools a cosmetologist will buy is
a pair—or several pairs—of haircutting shears, so Milady has dedicated
an entire section of the haircutting chapter to never-before-available
information on how to purchase, use, and maintain your shears. The
section is complete with photos of the kinds of shears available and the
proper way to care for them.
New Organization of Chapters
The information in this text, along with your teachers’ instruction, will
enable you to develop the abilities you need to build a loyal and satisfied
clientele. To help you locate information more easily, the chapters are
grouped into six main parts.
Part 1: Orientation
Orientation consists of four chapters that cover the field of cosmetology
and the personal skills you will need to become successful. Chapter 1,
“History and Career Opportunities,” outlines how the profession of
cosmetology came into being and where it can take you. In Chapter
2, “Life Skills,” the ability to set goals and maintain a good attitude is
emphasized, along with the psychology of success. Chapter 3, “Your
Professional Image,” stresses the importance of inward beauty and health
as well as outward appearance, and Chapter 4, “Communicating for
Success,” describes the important process of building client relationships
based on trust and effective communication.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Part 2: General Sciences
General Sciences includes important information you need to know
in order to keep yourself and your clients safe and healthy. Chapter 5,
“Infection Control: Principles and Practices,” offers the most current,
vital facts about hepatitis, HIV, and other infectious viruses and bacteria
and tells how to prevent their spread in the salon. The remaining
chapters in Part 2—“General Anatomy and Physiology,” “Skin
Structure, Growth, and Nutrition,” “Skin Disorders and Diseases,” “Nail
Structure and Growth,” “Nail Disorders and Diseases,” “Properties of
the Hair and Scalp,” “Basics of Chemistry,” and “Basics of Electricity”—
provide essential information that will affect how you interact with
clients and how you use service products and tools.
Also, you’ll notice that the “Skin Disorders and Diseases” and “Nail
Disorders and Diseases” chapters were moved from their previous
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locations to this section, where all of the other science chapters are
located—by request of instructors and students.
Part 3: Hair Care
Hair Care offers information on every aspect of hair. “Principles of
Hair Design” explores the ways hair can be sculpted to enhance a
client’s facial shape. The foundation of every hair service is covered in
“Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning,” followed by an updated
“Haircutting” chapter, complete with step-by-step procedures for core
cuts with fantastic new glamour shots to show the finished look. Stepby-step procedures are also found in “Hairstyling,” which includes
information on new tools and techniques. Another revised chapter,
“Braiding and Braid Extensions,” is followed by “Wigs and Hair
Additions,” and both “Chemical Texture Services” and “Haircoloring”
reflect the most recent advances in these areas.
Part 4: Skin Care
Skin Care focuses on another area in which new advances have altered
the way students must be trained. This part begins with a chapter on
“Hair Removal,” which covers waxing, tweezing, and other popular
methods of removing unwanted hair from the face and body. Next,
the basics of skin care is covered in “Facials” and makeup application
in “Facial Makeup.” These two chapters offer the critical information
you’ll need for these increasingly requested services in the expanding
field of esthetics. Procedures are included for many of the services
offered in salons and day spas.
Part 5: Nail Care
Nail Care contains completely revised chapters that are also perfectly
aligned with Milady Standard Nail Technology ,6e. These chapters
include “Manicuring,” “Pedicuring,” “Nail Tips and Wraps,” “Monomer
Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements,” and an expanded “UV
Gels” chapter.
Business Skills opens with the updated chapter “Seeking Employment.”
This chapter prepares students for licensure exams and job interviews,
and it explains how to create a resume and a portfolio. What you will be
expected to know and do as a newly licensed cosmetologist is described
in “On the Job.” It offers tips on how to make the most of your first
job—including the importance of learning all you can. The final
chapter, “The Salon Business,” exposes students to the numerous
types of salons and salon ownerships available to them.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Part 6: Business Skills
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Additional Features
of This Edition
As part of this edition, many features are available to help you
master key concepts and techniques.
CUS ON
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Larry Hamill.
F
G
ood skin care can make a big difference in the way skin looks
and in the way a client feels about his or her appearance.
Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments can offer
many improvements to the appearance of the skin (Figure 23–1).
Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier,
dry skin look and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look
smoother, firmer, and less wrinkled. A combination of good salon
facial treatments and effective, individualized home care will show
visible results.
WHY STUDY FACIALS?
Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough
understanding of facials because:
■ Providing skin care services to clients is extremely rewarding, helps
Figure 23–1
A facial is a soothing, pleasurable
experience for the client.
busy clients to relax, improves their appearance, and helps clients
feel better about themselves.
■ Knowing the basics of skin analysis and basic information about
CUS ON
SHARPENING YOUR
PERSONAL SKILLS
The importance of following
hygiene and infection control
guidelines when performing
facials cannot be overemphasized.
As often as possible, perform
your cleaning and disinfection
procedures in the
presence of your
clients. When they
see you doing
this, they will feel
more confident
in you as a
professional.
skin care products will enable you to offer your clients advice when
they ask you for it.
■ Although you will not treat a skin disease, you must be able to
recognize adverse skin conditions and refer clients to seek medical
advice from a physician.
■ Learning the basic techniques of facials and facial massage will
give you a good overview of, and an ability to perform, these
foundational services.
■ You may enjoy this category of services and may consider
specializing in skin care services. This study will create a perfect
basis for making that decision.
Skin Analysis and
Consultation
Skin analysis is a very important part of the facial
treatment because it determines what type of skin the
client has, the condition of the skin, and what type of
treatment the client’s skin needs. Consultation allows you
the opportunity to ask the client questions about his
or her health and skin care history, and it allows
you to advise the client about appropriate
home-care products and treatments.
LO1
Health Screening Form
Before beginning the analysis, you must
have the client fill out a health screening
did you know?
23
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This feature provides interesting information that will enhance
your understanding of the material in the text and call attention
to a special point.
Y
ou probably know that the natural nail has a cuticle. Do you
know whether the cuticle is living or dead skin? And do you
know where the plate and the bed are located in the natural
nail? This chapter gives you the answers to these questions and more.
So, read on, because you cannot perform professional nail services
without understanding the structure and growth of the natural nail.
Why Study Nail
Structure and Growth?
Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding
of nail structure and growth because:
■ Understanding the structure and growth of natural nails allows you
to expertly groom, strengthen, and beautify nails.
■ It is important to know the difference between the nail cuticle
and the eponychium before performing nail services.
■ Understanding the structure and growth cycles of the natural nail
will prepare you for more advanced nail services.
The Natural Nail
did you know?
ACT ivity
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
The Activity boxes describe hands-on classroom exercises that will
help you understand the concepts explained in the text.
Here’s
a Tip
These helpful tips draw attention to situations that might arise
and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for these tips
throughout the text.
Nail plates are made of dead cells,
so they do not require oxygen. In
contrast, nail beds are live cells,
so they do need oxygen, vitamins,
and minerals.
A natural nail, also known as onyx (AHN-iks), is the hard protective
plate composed mainly of keratin, the same fibrous protein found in
skin and hair. The keratin in natural nails is harder than the keratin in
skin or hair. The natural nail is located at the end of the finger or toe.
It is an appendage of the skin and is part of the integumentary system,
which is made up of the skin and its various organs. Nail plates protect
the tips of the fingers and toes, and their appearance can reflect the
general health of the body.
A normal, healthy nail is firm but flexible. The surface is shiny, smooth,
and unspotted with no wavy ridges, pits, or splits. A healthy nail also is
Sometimes the names used for professional nail products can
create confusion. To avoid this problem, pay close attention to what
the product is actually designed to do.
For example, look at products marketed as nail cuticle moisturizers,
softeners, or conditioners. The cuticle is dead skin on the nail
plate, so why are these products designed to moisturize, soften,
and condition the cuticle? That does not make any sense! Cuticle
moisturizers, softeners, and conditioners are actually designed
to treat the eponychium, sidewalls, and hyponychium—not the cuticle!
Cuticle removers are properly named; they remove the dead cuticle. These
professional products can quickly dissolve soft tissue, and when carefully
applied to the nail plate, they speed removal of stubborn cuticle tissue.
9
198
C h a p t e r 9 N a i l S t r u c t u re a n d G ro w t h
Part 2: General Sciences
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ACT ivity
Using a model (or yourself) and two different color applications, divide the face in half. Try different
foundations, colors, and intensity on each side. This will give you a visual example of how makeup
will work on a face. Actually applying makeup is the best way to learn how to use it.
6. Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Paul Castle.
FYI’s offer important, interesting information related to the
content. Often FYI boxes direct you to a Web site or other
resource for further information.
© Dash, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
F
© Perov Stanislav 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
Throughout the text, short paragraphs in the outer column draw
attention to various skills and concepts that will help you reach
your goal. The Focus On pieces target sharpening technical and
personal skills, ticket upgrading, client consultation, and building
your client base. These topics are key to your success as a student
and as a professional.
7. Add individual or band lashes if desired (Figure 24–20).
Special-Occasion Makeup for Cheeks
Refer to the Corrective Makeup section for techniques you can use to
remedy less attractive aspects of the cheeks. You can also try one of the
following steps:
• Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition.
Apply with a blush brush or applicator and blend carefully. Add a
brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks and blend.
• Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones
for highlight. You may use cream or powder colors.
Figure 24–20
Dramatic smoky eyes.
Special-Occasion Makeup for Lips
Most clients prefer brighter or darker colors for special occasions.
You may use shimmer colors or matte colors, if desired.
Here’s
a Tip
1. Apply liner color to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot.
It is not recommended that you intensify
every feature because this will tend to look
overdone and garish. For example, you can
intensify the eyes and lips, or the cheeks
and lips, but not the eyes, cheeks, and lips.
2. Add similar color in lipstick over the entire mouth with a lip
brush or applicator.
3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.
LO4
Corrective Makeup
All faces are interesting in their own special ways, but few are perfect.
When you analyze a client’s face, you might see that the nose, cheeks,
lips, or jawline are not the same on both sides, or that one eye might
be larger than the other, or that the eyebrows might not match. In
fact, these tiny imperfections can make the face more interesting if
treated artfully. In any case, facial makeup can create the illusion of
better balance and proportion when so desired.
Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with
correct shadowing or shading, and balanced with the proper hairstyle. A basic
rule for the application of makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature,
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7 Part a small section of hair from the underside of the ponytail,
wrap it around the ponytail to cover the elastic, and secure with a
bobby pin underneath.
8
8 Smooth out the ponytail and hold it with one hand, and then begin
backbrushing from underneath the ponytail with your other hand. Gently
smooth out the ponytail after backbrushing, using the sides of the bristles.
9a
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
7
9b
S errvice Tip
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography.
10b
Service Tips draw attention to situations that might arise while
performing a service and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for
these tips in the procedures.
Performing an updo on hair that
has been washed the previous
day is often recommended.
Freshly washed hair can be very
slippery and difficult to work
with. Many stylists also choose
to set the hair in hot rollers
prior to doing an updo. The curl
allows the hair to be more easily
manipulated into rolls or loops
and creates a fuller shape.
9 Roll the hair under and toward the head to form the chignon. Secure
on the left and right undersides of the roll with bobby pins.
10a
Service Tip
10 Fan out both sides by spreading the chignon with your fingers. Secure
with hairpins, pinning close to the head. Use bobby pins if more hold is needed.
© gbphoto, 2010; used under license from
Shutterstock.com.
11 Finish with a strong hair spray, and add flowers or ornaments if desired.
12
caution
12 Finished look.
Post-Service
PROCEDURE
• Complete
Part 3: Hair Care
Post-S
Service
Proccedure
Procedure
SEE PAGE 326
17
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assignments. Don’t schedule six appointments for one professional and
only two for another, unless it’s necessary because you are working
with specialists.
Small Business Ownership
and Operation
• http://www.business.com
Advice on business topics from
A to Z and business resources
for accounting, sales, marketing,
technology, and more.
• http://www.isquare.com
The Small Business Advisor.
• http://www.salonbuilder.com
Information on starting a salon.
• http://www.smallbusinessnotes.
com
Various business-related articles.
• http://www.strategies.com
The source for salon business
growth seminars, training, and
coaching.
However, if someone calls to ask for an appointment with a particular
cosmetology professional on a particular day and time, make every effort
to accommodate the client’s request. If the professional is not available
when the client requests, there are several ways to handle the situation:
• Suggest other times that the professional is available.
• If the client cannot come in at any of those times, suggest another
professional.
• If the client is unwilling to try another professional, offer to call the
client if there is a cancellation at the desired time.
Handling Complaints by Telephone
Handling complaints, particularly over the phone, is a difficult task.
The caller is probably upset and short tempered. Respond with
self-control, tact, and courtesy, no matter how trying the circumstances.
Only then will the caller feel that she has been treated fairly.
Salon Software
The tone of your voice must be sympathetic and reassuring. Your manner
of speaking should convince the caller that you are really concerned about
the complaint. Do not interrupt the caller. After hearing the complaint
in full, try to resolve the situation quickly and effectively.
•
•
•
•
•
Building Your Business
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Paul Castle.
http://www.harms-software.com
http://www.shortcuts.net
http://www.salonbiz.com
http://www.salon2k.com
http://www.salon-software.com
State
R e g u l at o ry
A new salon owner will want to get the business up and running as soon
as possible to start earning some revenue and to begin paying off debts.
One of the first items the new salon owner should consider is how to
advertise the salon. It is important to understand the many aspects of
advertising.
A satisfied client is the very best form of advertising because she will
refer your salon to friends and family. So make your clients happy
(Figure 32–14)! Then, develop a referral program in which both the
referring client and the new client reap some sort of reward.
Figure 32–14
Customer satisfaction is your best advertising.
1026
If you have some experience developing ads, you may decide to do your
own advertising. On the other hand, if you need help, you can hire a
small local agency or ask a local newspaper or radio station to help you
produce the ad. As a general rule, an advertising budget should not
Part 6: Business Skills
Chapter 32 The Salon Business
t
Aler
This feature alerts you to check the laws in your region for procedures and
practices that are regulated differently from state to state. It is important,
while you are studying, to contact state boards and provincial regulatory
agencies to learn what is allowed and not allowed. Your instructor will
provide you with contact information.
Advertising includes all activities that promote the salon favorably, from
newspaper ads to radio spots to charity events that the salon participates
in, such as fashion shows. In order to create a desire for a service or
product, advertising must attract and hold the attention of readers,
listeners, or viewers.
32
Some information is so critical for your safety and the safety of your
clients that it deserves special attention. The text directs you to this
information in the Caution boxes.
59306_C32.indd 1026
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Microdermabrasion
CAUTION
Microdermabrasion (MY-kroh-dur-muh-BRAY-zhun) is a type of
mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other
crystals at the skin with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead cells.
Microdermabrasion uses a closed vacuum to shoot crystals onto the
skin, bumping off cell buildup that is then vacuumed up by suction.
Microdermabrasion is a popular treatment because it produces fast,
visible results. It is used primarily to treat surface wrinkles and aging skin.
Performance of safe and effective microdermabrasion treatments requires
extensive training.
LO8
The client’s eyes always
should be protected during
any light ray treatment. Use
cotton pads saturated with
alcohol-free freshener or
distilled water. The eye pads
protect the eyes from the
glare of the reflecting rays.
Facial Treatments
A professional facial is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing services
available to the salon client. Clients who have experienced this very restful,
yet stimulating experience do not hesitate to return for more. When
clients receive them on a regular basis, the client’s skin tone, texture, and
appearance are noticeably improved.
Facial treatments fall into one of the following categories:
• Preservative. Maintains the health of the facial
skin by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation,
relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands
and metabolism through massage.
R E G U L AT O RY
ALERT
!
Always check with your state regulatory
agency to determine which electrical
machines are approved for use in your state.
• Corrective. Correct certain facial skin conditions, such
as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines,
and minor conditions of acne.
The Web Resources provide you with Web addresses where you can
find more information on a topic and references to additional sites for
more information.
As with other forms of massage, facial treatments help to increase
circulation, activate glandular activity, relax the nerves, maintain muscle
tone, and strengthen weak muscle tissues.
Guidelines for Facial Treatments
• Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner.
• Explain the benefits of the products and service, and answer any
questions the client may have.
• Provide a quiet atmosphere, and work quietly and efficiently.
• Maintain neat, clean conditions in the facial work area, with an
orderly arrangement of supplies.
• Follow systematic procedures.
• If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the
client’s face.
Part 4: Skin Care
Chapter 23 Facials
59306_C23.indd 737
737
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© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
© Phase4Photography, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
Your facial treatments are bound to be successful and to inspire return
visits if you follow the simple guidelines summarized below:
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Educational Chapter Formatting
Each chapter of Milady Standard Cosmetology includes specialized
formatting and strategies for the presentation of material to enhance
your experience while working with the chapter and to facilitate the
learning process.
Learning Objectives
CHAPTER
At the beginning of each chapter is a list of learning objectives that tell
you what important information you will be expected to know after
studying the chapter. Throughout the chapter you will see a special icon
that indicates you have finished reading the material that corresponds to
one of these Learning Objectives. LO1
Learning Objectives
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
LO1 Recognize common skin lesions.
LO2 Describe the disorders of the sebaceous glands.
LO3 Name and describe changes in skin pigmentation.
LO4 Identify the forms of skin cancer.
LO5 Understand the two major causes of acne and how to treat them.
LO6 List the factors that contribute to the aging of the skin.
LO7 Explain the effects of overexposure to the sun on the skin.
LO8 Understand what contact dermatitis is and know how it can be prevented.
Chapter Outline
Why Study Skin Disorderss
and Diseases?
Disorders and Diseases
of the Skin
Key Terms
Disorders of the Sebaceous
us
(Oil) Glands
Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.
albinism
pg. 183
Disorders of the Sudoriferous
rous
(Sweat) Glands
allergic contact
dermatitis (ACD)
pg. 190
anaerobic
pg. 186
Inflammations and Common
on
Infections of the Skin
anhidrosis
pg. 181
Pigment Disorders of the Skin
basal cell carcinoma
pg. 184
Hypertrophies of the Skin
bromhidrosis
pg. 181
Skin Cancer
Aging Skin Issues
The Sun and Its Effects
Contact Dermatitis
© Grafica, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
Acne and Problem Skin
bulla
pg. 178
chloasma (liver
spots)
pg. 183
closed comedo
(whitehead)
pg. 180
conjunctivitis
(pinkeye)
pg. 182
contact dermatitis
pg. 190
crust
pg. 179
cyst
pg. 178
dermatitis
pg. 182
dyschromias
pg. 183
eczema
pg. 182
excoriation
pg. 180
hypopigmentation
pg. 183
extrinsic factors
pg. 187
impetigo
pg. 182
fissure
pg. 180
intrinsic factors
pg. 187
free radicals
pg. 188
irritant contact
dermatitis (ICD)
pg. 191
herpes simplex
pg. 182
hyperhidrosis
pg. 181
hyperpigmentation
pg. 183
hypertrophy
pg. 184
keloid
pg. 180
keratoma
pg. 184
lentigines
pg. 183
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Key Terms
The words you will need to know in a chapter are given at the beginning
of the chapter, in a list of Key Terms. When the word is discussed for
the first time within the chapter, it appears in boldface type. If the word
is difficult to pronounce, a phonetic pronunciation appears after it in
parentheses.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Procedures
All step-by-step procedures offer clear, easy-to-understand directions
and multiple photographs for learning the techniques. At the beginning
of each procedure, you will find a list of the needed implements and
materials, along with any preparation that must be completed before
the procedure begins. At the end of each procedure, you will find
photographs showing the finished result.
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PROCEDURE
6
7
6 Put both strands in right hand
with index finger in between and
palm facing upward.
7 Twist the left strand two times
clockwise (toward the center).
8 Pick up a 1-inch section from
the left side. Add this section to the
left strand.
10
11
9 Put both strands in your
left hand with the index finger
in between and your palm up.
10 Pick up a 1-inch section from
the right side and add it to the right
strand.
11 Put both strands in your right
hand with your index finger in
between and your palm up.
12
13a
13b
9
Preparation
Implements
and Materials
PROCEDURE
You will need all of the following
implements, materials, and supplies:
• Blowdrying cream or lotion
with oil or glycerin base
• Perform
Pre-S
Service
Procceduree
Procedure
SEE PAGE 323
Procedure
1 Drape the client for a shampoo. If necessary, comb and detangle
the hair.
• Butterfly clips
• Conditioner (protein or
moisturizing)
2 Shampoo, rinse, apply conditioner, and rinse thoroughly.
• Detangling solution in
spray bottle
3 Gently towel dry the hair, then blowdry it completely.
• Hair accessories or
ornamentation (if desired)
4
5
• Shampoo cape
• Styling and finishing products
5 Divide the section into two
equal strands. Cross the right strand
over the left strand.
• Tail comb with large
rounded teeth
• Towels
522
Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions
Part 3: Hair Care
13b Secure with a rubber band.
14 When you run out of sections to pick up, another option is to create a rope ponytail with the remaining
hair. Twist the left strand clockwise (away from the center) two or three times. Place the strands in your right
hand, index finger in between and palm up. Twist the palm down (toward the center), right hand over left.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
• Rubber bands, fabric-covered
elastics, or other implements
for securing the ends
• Shampoo
12 With your hand in this position, 13a Work toward the nape until
twist toward the left (toward the
the style is complete.
center) until your palm is facing down.
4 Take a triangular section
of hair from the front. If client
has bangs (fringe), begin behind
the bangs.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
• Neck strip
18
8
15 Repeat these steps until you reach the end of the hair. Secure ends with a rubber band.
16
16 Finished look.
Post-Service
PROCEDURE
• Complete
Part 3: Hair Care
Post-S
Service
Proocedure
Procedure
SEE PAGE 326
Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions
523
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In previous editions, the procedures interrupted the flow of the main
content, often making it necessary for readers to flip through many
pages before continuing their study. In order to avoid this interruption,
all of the procedures have been moved to a special Procedures section
at the end of each chapter.
For those students who may wish to review a procedure at the time it
is mentioned in the main content, Milady has added Procedural Icons.
These icons appear where each procedure is mentioned within the main
content of the chapter, and they direct you to the page number where
the entire procedure appears.
Review Questions
Review Questions
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
Each chapter ends with questions designed to test your understanding of
the chapter’s information. Your instructor may ask you to write the answers
to these questions as an assignment or to answer them orally in class. If you
have trouble answering a chapter review question, go back to the chapter
to review the material and then try again. The answers to the Review
Questions are in your instructor’s Course Management Guide.
What is the primary purpose of regulatory agencies?
What is an MSDS? Where can you get it?
List the four types of organisms that cosmetologists must know about and remember.
What are bacteria?
Name and describe the two main classifications of bacteria.
What are some of the beneficial functions performed by nonpathogenic bacteria?
Name and describe the three forms of pathogenic bacteria.
What is a contagious disease?
Is HIV a risk in the salon? Why or why not?
What is the difference between cleaning, disinfecting, and sterilizing?
What is complete immersion?
List at least six precautions to follow when using disinfectants.
How do you know if an item can be disinfected?
Can porous items be disinfected?
How often should disinfectant solutions be changed?
What are Universal Precautions?
What is an exposure incident?
Describe the procedure for handling an exposure incident in the salon.
Explain how to clean and disinfect nonelectrical tools and implements, and electrical tools and equipment.
List the steps for cleaning and disinfecting whirlpool foot spas and air-jet basins after each client.
Chapter Glossary
Abbreviated AIDS; a disease that breaks down the body’s immune system. AIDS is caused
by the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV).
acquired immunity
Immunity that the body develops after overcoming a disease, through inoculation (such
as flu vaccinations), or through exposure to natural allergens, such as pollen, cat dander,
and ragweed.
allergy
Reaction due to extreme sensitivity to certain foods, chemicals, or other normally harmless
substances.
antiseptics
Chemical germicides formulated for use on skin; registered and regulated by the Food and
Drug Administration (FDA).
asymptomatic
Showing no symptoms or signs of infection.
bacilli
Short rod-shaped bacteria. They are the most common bacteria and produce diseases such
as tetanus (lockjaw), typhoid fever, tuberculosis, and diphtheria.
Part 2: General Sciences Chapter 5 Infection Control: Principles and Practices
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Chapter Glossary
All key terms and their definitions are included in the Chapter
Glossary at the end of each chapter, as well as in the Glossary/Index
at the end of the text.
5
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© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
acquired immune
deficiency syndrome
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Extensive Learning
and Teaching Package
While Milady Standard Cosmetology is the center of the curriculum,
students and educators have a wide range of supplements from which to
choose. All supplements have been revised and updated to complement
the new edition of the textbook.
Student Supplements
S upplement T itle
S upplement D escription
• Contains chapter-by-chapter questions in multiple-choice, true/false, and matching
formats to help prepare for the written portion of licensure exams.
• Revised to meet the most stringent test-development guidelines.
• Questions are for study purposes only and are not the exact questions that will
be seen on licensure exams.
Print
Exam Review
• Full-color, spiral-bound guide
• Showcases additional advanced procedures for changing hair texture (10 examples)
and hair color (15 examples) with step-by-step accuracy.
Print
Haircoloring and
Chemical Texture
Services
• Full-color, spiral-bound guide
• Showcases cuts and styles that build upon content in Milady Standard Cosmetology
for both women (15 cuts) and men (10 cuts) with step-by-step accuracy.
Print
Haircutting
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Student Supplements
S upplement T itle
Print
S upplement D escription
• Helps with mastering the techniques, procedures, and product usage needed for
licensure as covered in the textbook.
• Provides fill-in-the-blank, matching, multiple-choice, and labeling exercises that
reinforce practical applications.
Practical Workbook
Print
• Tests the knowledge of how information that is learned can be applied in real-life
situations.
• Stories and scenarios closely reflect situations that are likely to arise when working
in a salon.
• Helps to demonstrate how to use the information learned by calling on the concepts
discussed in the classroom and applying them to real-life situations.
Situational
Problems for the
Cosmetology
Student
Print
Study Guide:
The Essential
Companion
Print
The study guide is designed to emphasize active, conceptual learning, and to consolidate
understanding of the material in Milady Standard Cosmetology.
• Provides six easy-to-follow features for each chapter, presenting the key content in a
different manner to help with overall comprehension.
• Chapter features: Essential Objectives, Essential Subjects, Essential Concepts, Essential
Review, Essential Discoveries, Accomplishments, Rubrics incorporated throughout
provide self-assessments to assist in overall learning.
• Attractive full-color design provides an engaging experience in order to learn
the important theory and practical aspects necessary for licensure and
professional success.
• Designed to reinforce classroom and textbook learning.
• Contains chapter-by-chapter exercises on theory subjects.
• Includes fill-in-the-blank, multiple-choice, matching, and labeling exercises, all
coordinated with material from the main text.
• Final Review Examinations at the end of the workbook assist with test preparation.
Theory Workbook
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Student Supplements
S upplement T itle
CD-Rom
Student CD-Rom
Online
eHomework
Solutions
Online
Milady U Online
Licensing Prep
S upplement D escription
• Interactive resource designed to reinforce classroom learning, stimulate the imagination,
and aid in preparation for board exams.
• Includes:
• Over 100 video clips that demonstrate procedures and theoretical concepts
• Chapter quizzes that provide 10 questions at a time but draw from a quiz bank of
more than 1,200 questions
• An ‘arcade’ with 4 different types of games
• An audio glossary that pronounces each term and provides the definition
• Content follows and enhances Milady Standard Cosmetology.
• Content-rich, web-based learning aid that presents information in a new
and different way.
• 24x7 access
• Provides tools and content that allow for more effective management of time, progress
checks, exam preparation, and organization of notes.
• Designed for integration of additional technology into programs that accommodate the
ever-changing learning styles.
• Student Features include: Chapter Learning Objectives, Study Sheets, Online Chapter
Quizzes, Flash Cards, Discussion Topics, Web Links, FAQs, Glossary, Video, Games
• Provides an alternative way to study for licensure exams, whether taken
on a computer or on paper.
• Offers familiarity with a computerized test environment during licensure exam
preparation.
• Features include:
• 24x7 availability and students have the flexibility to study from any computer
• Chapter tests, quizzes and comprehensive exams that draw from more than 1,200
multiple-choice questions
• All questions are available in both English and Spanish
• Immediate results with rationales to assist with knowledge acquisition
• Robust reports that help students determine areas of study they need to focus on
www.miladyonline.cengage.com
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Student Supplements
S upplement T itle
Online
Milady Online
Course
Online
S upplement D escription
Designed to be used in conjunction with Milady Standard Cosmetology textbook and the
practical portion of a cosmetology program.
• Focuses on delivering the theory portions of the cosmetology curriculum in an
online format.
• Extremely interactive which will engage all types of learners
• Features include:
• Interactive lectures with audio
• Video
• Interactive learning reinforcement activities including situational problems
• Games
• Automatically graded quizzes and tests
• Audio Flashcards with glossary terms and definitions
• Electronic version of Milady Standard Cosmetology for instant
online access
• Requires an internet connection.
• Enables highlighting, note-taking, and bookmarking.
• Has search capabilities.
• Contains an audio glossary.
• Ability to print pages one at a time while connected to the internet
eBook
Mobile
App
• An ‘on-the-go’ tool designed to help prepare for the written portion of licensure exams.
• Available for iPhone, iPod Touch, and iPad devices.
• Features include:
• “Question of the Day”
• Randomized multiple choice questions for each chapter
• Immediate feedback with rationales
• Progress reporting for all chapter tests
Exam Review
Mobile App
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Educator Supplements
Milady proudly offers a full range of innovative resources created
especially for cosmetology educators to make classroom preparation and
presentation simple, effective and enjoyable.
S upplement T itle
Milady Standard Cosmetology Course Management Guide Print Binder
Milady Standard Cosmetology Course Management Guide CD
Milady Standard Cosmetology DVD Series
Milady Standard Cosmetology Instructor Support Slides CD
Milady Standard Cosmetology Student CD School/Network Version
Milady Standard Cosmetology Interactive Games CD
Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircutting DVD Series
Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircutting Instructor Resource CD
Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircoloring and Chemical Texture Services DVD Series
Milady Standard Cosmetology Haircoloring and Chemical Texture Services Instructor
Resource CD
Thank you for choosing Milady as your Total Learning Solutions
Provider. For additional information on the above resources or to place
an order please contact your Milady Sales Representative or visit us
online at www.milady.cengage.com
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Catherine M. Frangie
began her career in 1982
as a licensed cosmetologist,
salon owner, and beauty
school instructor. Since
then, Catherine has held
prominent positions in the
professional beauty industry, including Marketing,
Communications, and Education Vice President;
Communications Director; Trade Magazine Editor/
Publisher; and Textbook Editor and Author.
Catherine has been a guest lecturer at conferences and
trade shows, including the International Beauty Show
in NYC. She has authored more than 125 featurelength magazine articles and several books on beauty
trends, fashion, and the business of the professional
salon. Catherine holds degrees in communications,
and marketing.
In 2001, Catherine founded Frangie Consulting,
LLC, a marketing, communications, and publishing
firm which offers strategies for managing business
objectives, creating high-performing teams, and
successfully achieving goals. Her experiences and
successes have given her a well-deserved reputation
as an industry expert in marketing and branding,
communications and education. Frangie Consulting
earned seven ABBIE Awards—including two Gold
ABBIEs—for marketing campaigns, new product
launches, and outstanding professional educational
programs.
Catherine has been involved with Milady for more
than twenty years, and since 2004 has acted as the
revision author/editor for its three core textbooks—
Milady Standard Cosmetology, Milady Standard
Nail Technology, and Milady Standard Esthetics
Fundamentals.
Colleen
Hennessey
Recognized nationally
as a Master Haircolorist,
Platform Artist, and
Technical Educator,
Colleen Hennessey brings
many years of hands-on
coloring experience to the
industry. She spent eight years at the renowned
Adam Broderick Salon and Spa as a Master Colorist
and Director of Salon Education.
Colleen’s rare skills as an educator make her a soughtafter resource throughout the profession. For eight
years she served as Senior Technical Editor of Haircolor
and Design Magazine, where she wrote an editorial
article entitled “The Haircolor Department.”
Photo courtesy of Colleen Hennessey.
Catherine
Frangie
Photo courtesy of Cathy Frangie.
Contributing Authors
Beauty schools’ students also benefit from Colleen’s
expert knowledge and teaching ability. Colleen is the
subject matter expert chosen to write the Haircolor
chapter for Milady Standard Cosmetology. In addition
to her writing projects, she works as a School
Manager representing the Procter & Gamble School
Partnership Program to help schools keep abreast of
all new product introductions and education.
An artist of many talents, Colleen is an established
platform artist, performing throughout the United
States and attracting crowds at mega trade shows,
including Hair Color USA in Long Beach, International
Beauty Show in New York City, Haircolor USA, Matrix
Logics Tour, and the Midwest Show. Her easy color
techniques are popular with stylists, as are her classes
in effective client-communication skills, both of which
have enabled her and the stylists she works with to build
salon haircolor sales.
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Formally Clairol Professional’s exclusive color
designer and Senior Manager of Clairol Professional’s
Education Department, Colleen has brought
techniques and color-correction advice direct to salon
mailboxes through Clairol Professional’s Creative
Connection, an educational membership program
free to all licensed cosmetologists. Her color work
has also been featured in Color & Style, Matrix News,
Modern Salon, and Passion magazines, as well as
Milady educational publications.
Wherever Colleen teaches—on platform, in salons,
in textbooks, or in magazines—she communicates
her love of haircolor by teaching others the precise,
technical, artistic, and communication skills that have
earned her the prestigious title of Master Colorist.
Photo courtesy of Mark Lees.
Dr. Mark Lees
Dr. Mark Lees is one of
the country’s most noted
skin care specialists and
an award-winning speaker
and product developer.
He has been actively
practicing clinical skin care
for over twenty years at his
multi-award winning CIDESCO accredited Florida
salon, which has been awarded many honors by
the readers of the Pensacola News-Journal, including
Best Facial, Best Massage, and Best Pampering Place.
Dr. Lees has been interviewed and quoted by
NBC News, The Associated Press, The Discovery
Channel, Glamour, Self, Teen, Shape, and many other
publications.
Dr. Lees is cofounder of both the Skin Care Study
Center in Los Angeles and the Institute of Advanced
Clinical Esthetics in Seattle, special science-based
advanced training programs for clinical estheticians.
Dr. Lees is former Chairman of EstheticsAmerica,
the esthetics education division of the National
Cosmetology Association (NCA), and has served
as a CIDESCO International Examiner. He has
also served on the national Board of Directors of
the NCA.
Dr. Lees is former Chairman of the Board of the
Esthetics Manufacturers and Distributors Alliance,
is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists,
and is author of the popular book Skin Care: Beyond
the Basics, now in its third edition, and the recently
released The Skin Care Answer Book.
Dr. Lees holds a Ph.D. in Health Sciences, a
Master of Science in Health, and a CIDESCO
International Diploma. He is licensed to practice
in both Florida and Washington State. His line of
products for problem, sensitive, and sun-damaged
skin is available at finer salons and clinics
throughout the United States.
His professional awards are numerous and include
Esthetician of the Year from American Salon
Magazine, the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Crystal
Award, the Dermascope Legends Award, the Rocco
Bellino Award for outstanding education from
the Chicago Cosmetology Association, and Best
Educational Skin Care Classroom from the Long
Beach International Beauty Expo. Dr. Lees has
also been inducted into the National Cosmetology
Association’s Hall of Renown.
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In 2005, Frank received the prestigious Diamond
Award from the magazine Day Spa to add to his
many professional awards and honors.
Frank has a graduate degree in art from Boston
University and has had his art exhibited nationally
and internationally. Today he no longer creates
precious objects but instead creates experiences.
Frank is happy to be in a profession that allows him
to state, “What I do is make people feel good.”
Alisha Rimando
Botero
Alisha is recognized as one
of the nail industry’s leading
experts in training and
education. In her first two
years as an educator, Alisha
taught classes in over 100
beauty schools and vo-techs
across the US. As she expanded internationally, her
focus turned to Asia, where she dedicated eight years
to implementing artistic training programs and
marketing strategies that resulted in the opening
of over 100 nail salons and seven schools in Japan,
growing that market to become the industry leader
in nail art techniques.
In her fourteen years of experience, her work has
been described as “groundbreaking.” She has been
a platform artist and motivational speaker for more
than 1,500 promotional and educational events and
has competed in over 100 nail competitions around
the globe, winning a World Championship in 2005.
She has been featured in multiple training videos
and more than 150 beauty and trade publications
and blog spots worldwide, such as Teen Vogue, Bridal
Guide, Self, Fitness, and Seventeen Magazine, as well
as numerous industry trade magazines like Nails,
Nailpro, Scratch (UK), and Stylish Nail (Japan).
Through the years, Alisha has garnered the attention
of large industry manufacturers, small business
entrepreneurs, salon franchises, and nail and beauty
associations. She has worked with Research and
Development chemists to develop artificial nail
enhancement products, nanotechnology skin care
and cuticle treatments, polish collections, and natural
nail treatments. One of her innovative product lines
was awarded an industry ABBIE for best packaging,
and several others have been recognized with
readers’ choice awards for best products. Recently,
Alisha has added reflexology to her growing list of
competencies, ever striving to advance a more holistic
approach to natural nail products and services.
Photo courtesy of Frank Shipman.
Frank Shipman has been
making hair look great for
more than two decades. As
the owner of the nationally
recognized Technicolor/TC
Salon Spas, Frank is proud
to have the privilege of
working behind the chair.
He also continues to be a beauty educator, writer,
and speaker, bringing his own unique perspective
to the industry.
Alisha’s love and passion for her industry and family
have led her to New York State, where she currently
resides with her husband and son.
Bonnie Sanford
Bonnie Sanford is a beauty industry consultant,
editor, and writer who specializes in marketing,
communications, and public relations. She has
worked in the professional beauty industry for over
fourteen years, beginning as the Managing Editor
of a national trade publication. Bonnie moved from
the publishing field to the professional products
industry, first as the Director of Communications
and Creative Services for a leading international hair
care company, then as a consultant to various hair
care and skin care companies.
Photo courtesy of Alisha Rimando.
Frank Shipman
Bonnie was a contributing writer for the sixth
edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology Student
CD-ROM. She is honored to continue her work
with Milady as a contributing author for Milady
Standard Cosmetology.
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Victoria Wurdinger
Victoria Wurdinger is an award-winning writer
and researcher who specializes in beauty, business,
and wellness. Her “State of the Professional Haircare
Market,” originally appearing in DCI and later
in Modern Salon magazine, became the essential
annual report on the salon industry for both venture
capitalists and industry insiders. As a columnist, she
has written about new technology, and her articles on
the health-care concerns of small businesses brought
notice from as far away as Germany.
She has won several American Society of Business
Press Editors awards, as well as an international
award for her coverage of the British Hair Fashion
industry. Most recently, she has provided content
for various Web sites. Her own is http://www.
victoriawurdinger.com.
Contributing Authors for
Previous Editions of Milady
Standard Cosmetology
Victoria’s work has appeared in dozens of
publications, among them Art Business News, Beauty
Digest, Beauty Store Business, British Hairdressers
Journal, Celebrity Hairstyles, Color and Style, Drug
Store News, Day Spa, DCI, Longevity, Modern Salon,
Germany’s Top Hair, Launchpad, and Salon Today.
Her travels to salons have taken her from Miami to
Moscow and New York to Paris.
Arlene Alpert
Mary Beth Janssen
Margrit Altenburg
Nancy King
Diane Carol Bailey
Dr. Mark Lees
Letha Barnes
Toni Love
Lisha Barnes
Vivienne Mackinder
Deborah Beatty
Carey Nash
Additionally, Victoria has developed educational
programs and promotional materials for several
major beauty care manufacturers, including ARTec,
Clairol, Mizani, Redken, Rusk, and Tocco Magico.
As a commercial writer, she was selected to write the
packaging and promotional copy for Joan Rivers’
infomercial-sold skin care line, Fundamentals.
Mary Brunetti
Ruth Roche
Jane Crawford
Teresa Sammarco
Robert Cromeans
Sue Sansom
Alyssa Evirs
Douglas Schoon
Catherine M. Frangie
Sue Ellen Schultes
Victoria has authored several books, including
Competition Hairdesign, The Photo Session Handbook,
101 Quick Fixes for Bad Hair Days, The Eric Fisher
Salon Training Notebook, and Multicultural Markets.
For the latter, she conducted extensive historical
research, sometimes working with Spanish translators
to explore early methods of hairstyling in the Latino
community. Multicultural Markets contains the neverbefore-published history of ethnic beauty culture in
the United States.
John Halal
Frank Shipman
Colleen Hennessey
Jeryl Spear
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Randy Ferman, CEO and
Founder of the Shark Fin
Shear Co., has a history of
introducing new products
that revolutionize the way
stylists do business. His
mission has been to improve
stylists’ quality of life
through innovation and product advancement. Randy
Ferman’s genuine concern and instinctive ability has
resulted in innovative and technologically advanced
products for the professional beauty industry.
After teaching at cosmetology schools in the
Northeast, Randy Ferman learned that students
and instructors were quick to cite the need for
a more advanced shear. With traditional shears,
the handle openings were too large, causing users’
fingers to slide through. This resulted in loss of
control and a misalignment of the fingers. Randy
Ferman dedicated more than five years to creating
a more ergonomically correct shear that enhances
both comfort and precision. This unique patented
design can help to prevent and may even eliminate
conditions such as carpal tunnel syndrome, nerve
damage, tendonitis, wrist and arm pain, and
shoulder and neck pain.
In 2001, Randy Ferman created a remarkable
product for the shear segment of the beauty
industry, now called the Shark Fin® Shear. This line
of revolutionary shears for stylists has a patented
handle design that comes with the SHEAR-FIT®
scissor fitting system for a more ergonomically
correct fit for the hand. This patented scissor
fitting system offers interchangeable ring guards
that provide a customized fit for the user’s exact
ring finger and thumb diameter, providing more
control and comfort. Shark Fin® shears are patented
throughout the United States, Canada, and Europe,
and other patents are pending worldwide. Randy
Ferman continues to introduce innovative and
exciting products for the hair care industry and
holds many patents worldwide.
John Halal
John Halal began his career
in the beauty industry
as a hairstylist over forty
years ago. Halal is a former
salon owner, a licensed
cosmetology instructor,
and since 1992, founder
and president of Honors
Beauty College, Inc.
Halal is an affiliate member of the Society of Cosmetic
Chemists (SCC). He is a past President of both the
American Association of Cosmetology Schools (AACS)
and the Indiana Cosmetology Educators Association
(ICEA).
Photo courtesy of John Halal.
Randy Ferman
Photo courtesy of Randy Fermin.
Editorial Contributors for the 2012 Edition
Halal is the author of Hair Structure and Chemistry
Simplified and Milady Hair Care and Product
Ingredient Dictionary. He is also a contributing
author of the Milady Standard Cosmetology and
several other Milady publications.
Halal obtained his Associate’s Degree, with highest
distinction, from Indiana University and is a member
of The Golden Key National Honor Society and
Alpha Sigma Lambda.
He has authored numerous articles on a wide
variety of topics and has been published in several
professional trade magazines. He often travels as
a guest speaker, addressing both professional and
consumer groups.
“I love the beauty industry more than ever,” he states
proudly. The secret, according to Halal is to “never
stop learning.”
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Photo courtesy of Jim McConnell.
Photo courtesy of Janet McCormick.
Jim McConnell
Jim McConnell received
his B.S. in Chemistry
from the University of
Oregon in 1986. He has
been a chemist in the field
of polymers since 1988.
After graduating from
the University of Oregon,
Jim worked as a catalytic chemist in the petroleum
industry and as a urethane and epoxy chemist in the
wood products, concrete coating, and steel coating
industries for twelve years. During this time, he was
on the board for various committees for the Steel
Structures Painting Council (SSPC) and National
Association of Corrosion Engineers (NACE).
He and his wife, Lezlie, began McConnell Labs, Inc.,
in 1998 to make Light Elegance Nail Products for
their salon in Eugene, Oregon. After making Light
Elegance for use in their own salon, they began selling
the UV gel products internationally. Jim contributed
to numerous nail technology magazines around
the world to answer questions, provide chemistry
information, and explain UV light technology prior
to starting McConnell Labs with his wife.
Janet
McCormick
Janet McCormick is a
licensed and experienced
esthetician and manicurist,
a sought-after trainer, a
former spa director, and
salon owner. She has been
writing for over twenty
years, producing hundreds of highly respected articles
in beauty industry trade magazines, three books, and
chapters covering two specialties for the industry’s
leading textbooks.
Ms. McCormick is co-owner of the Just For Toenails
Nail System, a gel system sold only to podiatrists. She
is also co-owner of the Medinail Learning Center,
which educates nail professionals and prepares them
to work in medical facilities. The Center offers two
certification programs: the Advanced Nail Technician
certification program for salon-based nail technicians
and the Medical Nail Technician certification for
technicians who work in podiatry offices. She is also
owner of Spa Techniques, a consulting and training
firm, and she writes under that banner.
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Vicki Peters is a twenty-eight-year veteran nail
technician, former competition champion,
competition judge and director, technical educator,
and featured business speaker. She is also author of
the Nails Q&A Book, Drilltalk, The Competitive Edge,
and Novartis’ Nail Healthy Guide. Her nail artistry
has been on the covers of TV Guide, Day Spa, Nails,
Nailpro, Nailpro Europe, and numerous fashion
magazines. Her expertise in the nail business ranges
from salon work and hands-on technical experience
to Research and Development, education, and
lecturing worldwide.
Douglas Schoon
Doug Schoon is the
Chief Scientific Advisor
for Creative Nail Design
(CND). With over thirty
years of experience as
a research scientist,
international lecturer,
author, and educator,
he has become a recognized authority in the
professional beauty industry. Schoon led CND’s
Research and Development program for nineteen
years. Now, as president of his own consulting
firm, Schoon Scientific, he continues focusing
on assisting CND with scientific, technical, and
regulatory issues that help shape the industry.
He works as a strong advocate for salon safety
and represents the professional nail industry on
scientific and technical issues in the U.S., Europe,
Canada, Australia, and Japan.
Photo courtesy of Vicki Peters.
As a nail technician,
Vicki Peters has wowed
the industry with her
championship nails. As a
cover artist and author, her
work has been published
worldwide, more than any
other tech in the history
of the nail business. As an educator, she has trained
techs from Russia, Germany, Japan, Ireland, the
United Kingdom, Canada, Mexico, Africa, Australia,
and the United States. As an industry leader, she has
mentored thousands of nail professionals. As a worldmaster nail technician, Peters, with her own line of
products, promises to lead the industry to
new heights.
Photo courtesy of Doug Schoon.
Vicki Peters
Schoon is the author of several books, video and
audio training programs, and dozens of magazine
articles about salon chemicals, chemical safety, and
disinfection. As a writer and speaker, Schoon is
applauded for his ability to make complex chemical
theories and concepts seem simple and easy to
understand. Schoon’s latest book, Nail Structure &
Product Chemistry, Second Edition, Milady, a part
of Cengage Learning, is also considered an excellent
resource for nail professionals. Currently, Schoon is a
co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC)
of the Professional Beauty Association (PBA).
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Acknowledgments
Milady recognizes, with gratitude and respect, the
many professionals who have offered their time
to contribute to this edition of Milady Standard
Cosmetology and wishes to extend enormous
thanks to the following people who have played
an invalueable role in the creation of this edition:
•Milady would like to offer our special thanks
to the Continental School of Beauty Culture
of Rochester, Batavia, Buffalo, West Seneca,
Olean, and Syracuse, NY, who, along with
their school owners, directors, instructors,
and students, welcomed the Milady team to
their schools in order to conduct this edition’s
massive photo shoot and who were wholeheartedly kind, accommodating, and hospitable
to all of our crew!
• Maria Moffre-Lynch, cosmetologist, cosmetology
instructor, and consultant, for her invaluable
assistance throughout the revision process and for
sharing her hairdressing skills and keen eye during
the Milady Standard Cosmetology photo shoot.
•Yanik Chauvin, professional photographer, whose
artistic vision and photographic expertise helped
bring many of these pages to life.
•Krissy Ferro, professional makeup artist and
founder of Ferro Cosmetics, for her artfully
inspired makeup applications and for generously
providing much of the makeup product, tools,
and supplies used and pictured throughout this
edition.
•Colleen Hennessey, for her on-camera haircoloring
work, her writing and authoring abilities, and her
passion about haircolor education.
•Dino Petrocelli, professional photographer, for his
photographic expertise for many of the photos in
the nail technology chapters.
•Latoyia Anderson, owner of The Hair Extension
Room, Rochester, NY, for her enthusiastic and
creative braiding styles that are featured in
this edition.
•Debbie Harris, professional stylist, Rochester, NY,
for her beautiful finger-wave styling.
•Jesse Hajduk, cosmetologist, Averill Park, NY, for
her off-camera assistance and on-camera modeling.
•Shear Ego International School of Hair Design,
Rochester, NY, for allowing Milady to hold casting
calls at their school.
Product Suppliers
• The Andis Company for generously providing
clippers and trimmers used and pictured
throughout this edition.
•The Burmax Company for providing many of the
tools, implements, and supplies used and pictured
throughout this edition.
• H
airlines Inc. Distributors for generously
providing wet products, flat irons, curling irons,
scissors, carving combs, and brushes used and
pictured throughout this edition.
•The Procter & Gamble Co., parent company
of Clairol Professional, for generously providing
the haircolor products, swatch books, and
other educational materials used and pictured
throughout this edition.
•Frank Shipman, for his on-camera haircutting and
styling work, his innovative approach, and his love
for the beauty industry.
•The Shark Fin Shear Company and Randy
Ferman for generously providing the shears and
cutting implements used and pictured throughout
this edition.
•Tom Carson, professional photographer, for his
wonderful finished haircut and styling photos,
which truly enhance these pages and are sure to
inspire readers.
•Zotos International, Inc., for generously
providing hair care, texture products, and
educational material used and pictured
throughout this edition.
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Interior Photo Shoot Models
Latoyia Anderson, Nicole Bleier, John Bradley,
Charla Buckner, Monique Campbell, Cheryl
Carapezza, Sandy Charette, Melissa Christensen,
Jennifer East, Latrice Ellis, Emma Eskander, Tracy
Eskander, Cassidy Ewing, Krissy Ferro, Maureen
Fink, Roberta Alessandra Finn, Yesenia Fonseca,
Victoria Gerstner, Jessie Hajduk, Laura Hand,
Debbie Harris, Michael Harvey, Maria K. Hebert,
Colleen Hennessey, Shadia Jaber, Shantelle Luety,
Tracy Lupinetti, Philip Mandl, Orlando Martinez,
Kari Maytum, Katie Meynis, Alexandra Mitchell,
Bonnie M. Mitchell, Kristin Mitchell, Maria MoffreLynch, Jamie Mookel, Renee Moonan, Carrie Morris,
Thanh-Van Nguyen, Jaionna Overton, Trina Palmo,
Kristie Peraza, Alanna Perna, Courtney Perrotta,
Samantha Perry, Matthew Poissant, Joseph Rojo,
Dezmarie Ruiz, Yvette Seils, Frank Shipman, Caitlin
Siebert, Amanda Spenziero, Crystal Stephan, Ashley
Stewart, Lynn A. Strzelecki, Rosemary Suong, Natalie
Tchurekow, Nina Vieira, Betty Vieira, Tiffany Vogt,
Tiffany Wade, Lisa Wallace
Reviewers of Milady Standard
Cosmetology 2012 Edition
Francis Archer, The Nail Clinic School of
Manicuring, SC
Brenda Baker, Euphoria/Lincoln College of
Technology, FL
RaNae Barker, Southern Oklahoma Technology
Center, OK
Robin Cochran, Gadsden State Community
College, AL
Kimberly Cutter, Savannah Technical College, GA
Corrinne Edwards, CTN Systems, MD
Ami Enzweiler, Salon 4 U, OH
Cortney Forster, The Beauty Bar, MI
Laureen Gillis, Kent Career Technical Center, MI
Shari Golightly, Entanglements Inc. Training
Center, CO
Keri Gray, State College of Beauty Culture, WI
Kristy Henderson, East Central Technical
College, GA
Mary Jean Hernandez, Southeastern Trade Schools,
Inc., GA
Jean Hoffer, Capital Region Career and Technical
School, NY
Florence Hogan, Bella Vita Spa, MI
MaryAnn Hough, State of Connecticut Unified
Vocational School District #1, CT
Patricia Jones, Southern Union State Community
College, AL
Dr. Carolyn Kraskey, Central Beauty School, MN
Susan Kolar, David Pressley Professional School of
Cosmetology and Transitions-Mott Community
College, MI
Fredrick Laurino, House of Heavilin of
Kansas Inc., KS
Jane Barrett, Chisholm Institute, Victoria, Australia
Danielle Lawson, Kenneth Shuler School of
Cosmetology, SC
Yota Batsaras, Sephora USA, CA
Helen LeDonne, Santa Monica College, CA
Laurie Biagi, Skyline Community College, CA
Dawn Mango, John Paulos Extreme Beauty
School, NY
Melinda Borrego, Mindyfingers, CT
Gina Boyce, Gegi Designs, MO
Peggy Braswell, Swainsboro Technical College, GA
Toni Campbell, Sullivan South High School, TN
Phyllis Causey, Hair By Phyllis, TX
Laura Manicho, OPI National School Division, OH
Maria Moffre, Orlo School of Hair Design and
Cosmetology, NY
Kirby Morris, Wyoming Board of Cosmetology, WY
Alan Murphy, King Research, WI
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Ernestine Peete, Tennessee Technology Center at
Memphis, TN
Sandra Peoples, Pickens Technical College, CO
Beth Phillips, Heritage College, MO
Robert Powers, Pinellas Technical Education
Center, FL
Debbie Eckstine-Weidner, DeRielle Cosmetology
Academy, PA
LuAnne Rickey, The Lab – A Paul Mitchell Partner
School, NJ
Conrad Sanchez, Central New Mexico Community
College, NM
Special Thanks to Milady’s Infection Control
Advisory Panel for Reviewing & Contributing
to Chapter 5, Infection Control: Principles and
Practices
• Barbara Acello, M.S., R.N., Denton, TX
•Gerri Cevetillo-Tuccillo, General Manager,
Dentronix Inc./Ultronics Inc., OH
•Mike Kennamer, Ed.D., Director of Workforce
Development & Skills Training, Northeast
Alabama Community College
• Janet McCormick, M.S., Cidesco, FL
Denise Sauls, Lurleen B. Wallace Community
College, AL
•Leslie Roste, R.N., National Director of
Education & Market Development, King
Research/Barbicide, WI
Penny Sawyer, Rapid Response Monitoring, NY
• Robert T. Spalding, Jr., DPM, TN
Jennifer Schrodt, University of Nebraska, NE
• David Vidra, CLPN, WCC, MA, President
Health Educators, Inc., OH
Kimberly Schroeder, Avalon School of
Cosmetology, MN
Vickie Servais, New Horizons Regional Education
Center, VA
Donna Simmons, Tulsa Tech, OK
Foy Smith, Beech High School and Looks By
Foy, TN
Lisa Sparhawk, Self-Employed Private Educator, NY
Kay Stannard, Four County Career Center, OH
Madeline Udod, Brookhaven Technical Center
(Eastern Suffolk BOCES), NY
Rebecca Udwary, San Francisco Institute of Esthetics
and Cosmetology, CA
Michael Vanacore, Learning Institute for Beauty
Sciences, NY
Therese Vogel, Tiffin Academy of Hair Design, OH
Kenneth Young, Hotheads Hair Design, OK
Tamara Yusupoff, Bellus Academy, The Academy of
Beauty and Spa, CA
Ida Scarpelli-Zanon, Northern Gateway Division
Onoway High School, AB, Canada
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Chapters
HISTORY
HISTORY AND CAREER
OPPORTUNITIES
2 LIFE SKILLS
Communicating
for Success
1
Career
Opportunities
Communicating
for Success
history and career opportunities
life skills your professional
image communicating for
success
3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE
4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
Professional
Professional
Professional
Success
n
io
i
r
O
t
part
a
t
Your
en Professional
Image
LIFE SKILLS
history and career
opportunities life skills
your professional image
communicating for success
59306_C01.indd 1
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Chapter
1
History
and Career
Opportunities
Chapter Outline
Why Study Cosmetology History
and Career Opportunities?
Brief History of Cosmetology
© Vladimir Wrangel, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
Career Paths for Cosmetologists
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Learning Objectives
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
LO1 Explain the origins of appearance enhancement.
LO2 Name the advancements made in cosmetology during the nineteenth,
twentieth, and early twenty-first centuries.
LO3 List several career opportunities available to a licensed beauty practitioner.
Key Terms
Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.
Cosmetology
pg. 4
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The simple but effective cosmetic implements used at the dawn of
history were shaped from sharpened flints, oyster shells, or bone.
Animal sinew or strips of hide were used to tie the hair back or
as adornment. Ancient people around the world used coloring
matter on their hair, skin, and nails, and they practiced
tattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects,
nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colorants are still
used today.
© Robyn Mackenzie, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
Cosmetology (kahz-muh-TAHL-uh-jee) is a term used to encompass a
broad range of specialty areas, including hairstyling, nail technology, and
esthetics. Cosmetology is defined as the art and science of beautifying
and improving the skin, nails, and hair and includes the study of
cosmetics and their application. The term comes from the Greek word
kosmetikos, meaning skilled in the use of cosmetics. Archaeological
studies reveal that haircutting and hairstyling were practiced
in some form as early as the Ice Age.
Why Study Cosmetology History
and Career Opportunities?
Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding
of the history of cosmetology and the career opportunities
available because:
■■ Many very old methods have evolved into techniques still used
today. Studying the origin of these techniques can be useful in fully
understanding how to use them today.
■■ Knowing the history of your profession can help you predict and
understand upcoming trends.
■■ By learning about many possible career paths, you’ll see the wide
range of opportunities open to cosmotologists.
Brief History of Cosmetology
The Egyptians
The Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant
fashion. They used cosmetics as part of their personal beautification
habits, religious ceremonies, and preparation of the deceased for burial.
As early as 3000 BC, Egyptians used minerals, insects, and berries to create
makeup for their eyes, lips, and skin. Henna was used to stain their hair and
nails a rich, warm red. They were also the first civilization to infuse essential
oils from the leaves, bark, and blossoms of plants for use as perfumes and
for purification purposes. Queen Nefertiti (circa 1400 BC) stained her nails
red by dipping her fingertips in henna, wore lavish makeup designs, and
used custom-blended essential oils as signature scents. Queen Cleopatra
(circa 50 BC) took this dedication to beauty to an entirely new level by
erecting a personal cosmetics factory next to the Dead Sea.
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Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
Part I: Orientation
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Ancient Egyptians are also credited with creating kohl
makeup—originally made from a mixture of ground
galena (a black mineral), sulfur, and animal fat—to
heavily line the eyes, alleviate eye inflammation, and
protect the eyes from the glare of the sun.
In both ancient Egypt and Rome, military commanders
stained their nails and lips in matching colors before
important battles (Figure 1–1).
The Chinese
© Corbis
History also shows that during the Shang Dynasty (circa
1600 BC), Chinese aristocrats rubbed a tinted mixture
of gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites onto
their nails to color them crimson or ebony. Throughout
the Chou Dynasty (circa 1100 BC), gold and silver were
the royal colors. During this early period in Chinese history, nail
tinting was so closely tied to social status that commoners caught
wearing a royal nail color faced a punishment of death.
▲
Figure 1–1
The Egyptians wore elaborate
hairstyles and cosmetics.
During the golden age of Greece (circa 500 BC), hairstyling became a
highly developed art. The ancient Greeks made lavish use of perfumes
and cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinal
purposes. They built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods of
dressing the hair and caring for the skin and nails. Greek women applied
preparations of white lead onto their faces, kohl around their eyes,
and vermillion upon their cheeks and lips. Vermillion is a brilliant red
pigment, made by grinding cinnabar (a mineral that is the chief source
of mercury) to a fine powder. It was mixed with ointment or dusted on
the skin in the same way cosmetics are applied today (Figure 1–2).
The Romans
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
The Greeks
▲
Figure 1–2
The Greeks advanced grooming and
skin care.
Roman women lavishly used fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made
of milk and bread or fine wine were popular. Other facials were made
of corn with flour and milk, or from flour and fresh butter. A mixture
of chalk and white lead was used as a facial cosmetic. Women used hair
color to indicate their class in society. Noblewomen tinted their hair red,
middle-class women colored their hair blond, and poor women dyed
their hair black (Figure 1–3).
The Middle Ages is the period of European history between classical
antiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome,
circa AD 476, and lasting until about 1450. Beauty culture is evidenced
by tapestries, sculptures, and other artifacts from this period. All of these
show towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of cosmetics
on skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks and
lips, but not on their eyes. Around AD 1000, a Persian physician and
Part I: Orientation
59306_C01.indd 5
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
The Middle Ages
▲
Figure 1–3
The Romans applied various
preparations to the skin.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
5
1
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alchemist named Avicenna refined the process of steam distillation.
This ushered in the modern era of steam-distilled essential oils that
we use today.
The Renaissance
This is the period in history during which Western civilization made
the transition from medieval to modern history. Paintings and written
records tell us a great deal about the grooming practices of the time.
One of the most unusual practices was the shaving of the eyebrows and
the hairline to show a greater expanse of forehead. A brow-less forehead
was thought to give women a look of greater intelligence. During
this period, both men and women took great pride in their physical
appearance and wore elaborate, elegant clothing. Fragrances and
cosmetics were used, although highly colored preparations of the
lips, cheeks, and eyes were discouraged (Figure 1–4).
▲
Figure 1–4
During the Renaissance, shaving or tweezing
of the eyebrows and hairline to show a
greater expanse of the forehead was thought
to make women appear more intelligent.
The Victorian Age
The reign of Queen Victoria of England, between 1837 and 1901, was
known as the Victorian Age. Fashions in dress and personal grooming
were drastically influenced by the social mores of this austere and
restrictive period in history. To preserve the health and beauty of
the skin, women used beauty masks and packs made from honey,
eggs, milk, oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients.
Victorian women are said to have pinched their cheeks and bitten their
lips to induce natural color rather than use cosmetics, such as rouge or
lip color (Figure 1–5).
LO1
The Twentieth Century
In the early twentieth century, the invention of motion pictures
coincided with an abrupt shift in American attitudes. As viewers saw
pictures of celebrities with flawless complexions, beautiful hairstyles,
and manicured nails, standards of feminine beauty began to change.
This era also signaled the spread of industrialization, which brought
a new prosperity to the United States. Beauty applications began to
follow the trends set by celebrities and society figures (Figure 1–6).
Figure 1–5
During the Victorian period, makeup and
showy clothing were discouraged except
in the theater.
On October 8, 1906, Charles Nessler invented a heavily wired machine
that supplied electrical current to metal rods around which hair strands
were wrapped. These heavy units were heated during the waving
process. They were kept away from the scalp by a complex system
of counterbalancing weights that were suspended from an overhead
chandelier mounted on a stand. Two methods were used to wind hair
1
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Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
▲
1901-1910
In 1904, Max Faktor emigrated from Lodz, Poland, to the United
States. By 1908, he had Americanized his name to Max Factor and
moved to Los Angeles, where he began making and selling makeup. His
makeup was popular with movie stars because it wouldn’t cake or crack,
even under hot studio lights.
Part I: Orientation
1/26/11 2:53 PM
strands around the metal units. Long hair was wound from the
scalp to the ends in a technique called spiral wrapping. After
World War I, when women cut their hair into the short bobbed
style, the croquignole (KROH-ken-yohl) wrapping technique
was introduced. In this method, shorter hair was wound from
the ends toward the scalp. The hair was then styled into deep
waves with loose end-curls.
▼
Figure 1–6
Dramatic changes in beauty and
fashion occured through the decades
of the twentieth century.
One of the most notable success stories of the cosmetology
industry is that of Sarah Breedlove. She was the daughter of
former slaves and was orphaned at age seven when she went
to work in the cotton fields of the Mississippi delta. In 1906,
Sarah married her third husband, C. J. Walker, and became
known as Madame C. J. Walker. Sarah suffered from a scalp condition
and began to lose her hair, which caused her to experiment with storebought products and homemade remedies. She began to sell her scalp
conditioning and healing treatment called “Madam Walker’s Wonderful
Hair Grower.” She devised sophisticated sales and marketing strategies
and traveled extensively to give product demonstrations. In 1910, she
moved her company to Indianapolis where she built a factory, hair
salon, and training school. As she developed new products, her empire
grew. She devoted much time and money to a variety of causes in
Indianapolis, including the National Association for the Advancement
of Colored People (NAACP) and the Young Men’s Christian Association
(YMCA). In 1917, she organized a convention for her Madam C. J.
Walker Hair Culturists Union of America. This was one of the first
national meetings for businesswomen ever held. By the time of her
death, she had established herself as a pioneer in the modern AfricanAmerican hair care and cosmetics industry.
In 1872, Marcel Grateau (AKA Francois Marcel) invented the first
curling iron—tongs heated by a gas burner. Later, around 1923, he
created an electric version. Because he introduced several electric
versions, the actual date of the invention remains in dispute. Grateau
went on to develop a permanent wave machine, barbers clippers, a
safety razor, and other devices.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
1920s
The cosmetics industry grew rapidly during the 1920s. Advertising
expenditures in radio alone went from $390,000 in 1927 to $3.2 million
in 1930. At first, many women’s magazines deemed cosmetics improper
and refused to print cosmetic advertisements, but by the end of the 1920s,
cosmetics provided one of their largest sources of advertising revenue.
1930s
In 1931, the preheat-perm method was introduced. First, hair was
wrapped using the croquignole method. Then, clamps that had been
preheated by a separate electrical unit were placed over the wound
curls. An alternative to the machine perm was introduced in 1932
Part I: Orientation
59306_C01.indd 7
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
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1
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Up until the nineteenth century,
many barbers also performed
minor surgeries and practiced
dentistry. In fact, the barber
pole, a symbol of the barber–
surgeon, has its roots in a medical
procedure called bloodletting that
was once thought to strengthen
the immune system. The pole is
believed to represent the staff
that patients held tightly to make
the veins in their arms stand
out during the procedure. The
bottom cap represents the basin
used to catch the blood. The
red and white stripes represent
the bandages that stopped the
bleeding and were then hung on
the pole to dry. As the wind blew,
these bandages would become
twisted around the pole, forming
a red-and-white pattern.
The modern barber pole, then,
was originally the symbol of the
barber–surgeon, and is believed
to represent the bandages
(white), blood (red), and veins
(blue) involved in bloodletting
(Figure 1–7).
Up until the end of the
nineteenth century, even
in the United States, both
men and women wore
wigs. Today wigs are
making a resurgence as
a fashion item, riding the
popularity wave of hair
extensions.
Figure 1–7
A traditional barber pole.
1
59306_C01.indd 8
8
when chemists Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough pioneered
a method that used heat generated by chemical reaction: small flexible
pads containing a chemical mixture were wound around hair strands.
When the pads were moistened with water, a chemical heat was released
that created long-lasting curls. Thus the first machineless permanent
wave was born. Salon clients were no longer subjected to the dangers
and discomforts of the Nessler machine.
In 1932, nearly 4,000 years after the first recorded nail-color craze,
Charles Revson of Revlon fame marketed the first nail polish—as
opposed to a nail stain—using formulas that were borrowed from the
automobile paint industry. This milestone marked a dramatic shift in
nail cosmetics as women finally had an array of nail lacquers available
to them. The early screen sirens Jean Harlow and Gloria Swanson
glamorized this hip new nail fashion in silent pictures and early talkies
by appearing in films wearing matching polish on their fingers and toes.
Also in 1932, Lawrence Gelb, a New York Chemist, introduced the first
permanent haircolor product and founded a company called Clairol. In
1935, Max Factor created pancake makeup to make actors’ skin look
natural on color film. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave
that used no machines or heat. The cold wave is considered to be the
precursor to the modern perm.
1940s
In 1941, scientists developed another method of permanent waving
that used waving lotion. Because this perm did not use heat, it was
also called a cold wave. Cold waves replaced virtually all predecessors
and competitors. In fact, the terms cold waving and permanent waving
became practically synonymous. Modern versions of cold waves,
usually referred to as alkaline perms, are very popular today. The
term texture services is used today to refer to the variety of permanent
waving and straightening services available for various hair types
and conditions.
1951–2000
The second half of the twentieth century saw the introduction of
tube mascara, improved hair care and nail products, and the boom
and then death of the weekly salon appointment. In the late 1960s,
Vidal Sassoon turned the hairstyling world on its ear with his
revolutionary geometric cuts. The 1970s saw a new era in highlighting
when French hairdressers introduced the art of hair weaving using
aluminum foil. In the 1980s, makeup went full circle, from barely
there to heavily made-up “cat-eyes” and the heavy use of eye shadows
and blush. In the 1990s, haircolor became gentler, allowing all
ethnicities to enjoy being blonds, brunettes, or redheads. In 1998,
Creative Nail Design introduced the first spa pedicure system to the
professional beauty industry.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
© Corbis.
did you know?
Part I: Orientation
1/26/11 2:53 PM
The Twenty-First Century
Today, hairstylists have far gentler, no-fade haircolor. Estheticians can
noticeably rejuvenate the skin, as well as keep disorders such as sunspots
and mild acne at bay. The beauty industry has also entered the age of
specialization. Now cosmetologists frequently specialize either in haircolor
or in haircutting; estheticians specialize in esthetic or medical-aesthetic
services; and nail technicians either offer a full array of services or specialize
in artificial nail enhancements, natural nail care, or even pedicures.
Since the late 1980s, the salon industry has evolved to include day spas,
a name that was first coined by beauty legend Noel DeCaprio. Day spas
now represent an excellent employment opportunity for beauty
practitioners (Figure 1–8).
Men-only specialty spas and barber spas have also grown in popularity.
These spas provide exciting new opportunities for men’s hair, nail, and
skin-care specialists. Figure 1–9 on page 10 is a timeline of significant
events in the cosmetology industry.
LO2
▲
Figure 1–8
Day spas are increasing in number
and popularity.
Career Paths for Cosmetologists
Once you have completed your schooling and are licensed, you will
be amazed at how many career opportunities will open up to you. The
possibilities can be endless for a hard-working professional cosmetologist
who approaches her or his career with a strong sense of personal integrity.
Within the industry there are numerous specialties, such as the following:
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
•Haircolor specialist. Once you have received additional training
and experience in haircolor, you may be responsible for training
others in your salon to perform color services or work for a product
manufacturer, where you will be expected to train other professionals
how best to perform color services according to the company’s
guidelines and product instructions (Figure 1–10).
Figure 1–10
Haircolor specialists are in great demand.
•Texture specialist. Once you have received additional training and
experience in texture services you may be responsible for training others
to perform texture services in the salon, or work for a manufacturer
where you will be expected to train others on how best to perform texture
services according to your company’s guidelines and product instructions.
A subspecialty, curly hair specialist, focuses on maintaining natural curl.
•Cutting specialist. This position requires a dedicated interest in learning
various cutting styles and techniques. After perfecting your own skills
and developing your own method of cutting (everyone develops his or
her own cutting technique), you may want to study with other reputable
haircutters to learn and adopt their systems and techniques. This training
will allow you to perform top-quality haircutting in your own salon,
as well as to coach those around you, helping them to hone their skills
(Figure 1–11).
Part I: Orientation
59306_C01.indd 9
▲
▲
Figure 1–11
Cutting hair in a salon is one of the many
choices open to you.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
9
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Figure 1–9
A Timeline of Milestones in the Professional Beauty Industry.
3000 BC Egyptians used minerals,
insects, and berries to create makeup
for their eyes, lips, and skin. Henna
was used to stain their hair and nails
a rich, warm red. They also infused
essential oils from the leaves, bark,
and blossoms of plants for use as
perfumes and purification purposes.
1600 BC Chinese aristocrats
rubbed a tinted mixture of gum
arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg
whites onto their nails to color
them crimson or ebony.
1400 BC Queen Nefertiti stained her
nails red by dipping her fingertips in
henna, wore lavish makeup
designs, and used customblended essential oils as
signature scents.
1100 BC Throughout the Chinese
Chou Dynasty, gold and silver were
the royal colors. Nail tinting was
so closely tied to social status that
commoners caught wearing a
royal nail color faced a punishment
of death.
© Vladimir Wrangel, 2010; used
under license from Shutterstock.com.
3000 BC 2500 2000 1500 1100 BC
1872 Marcel Grateau
(AKA Francois Marcel)
invented the first
curling iron—gas
burner-heated tongs.
About 1923, he
created an electric
version.
1900s Motion picture
viewers saw pictures of
celebrities with flawless
complexions, beautiful
hairstyles, and manicured
nails, and standards of
feminine
beauty
began to
change.
1906 Charles Nessler invented
a heavily wired machine that
supplied electrical current to
metal rods around which hair
strands were wrapped. These
heavy units were heated
during the waving process.
They were kept away from
the scalp by a complex system
of counterbalancing weights
that were suspended from an
overhead chandelier mounted
on a stand.
1908 Max Factor began
making and selling
makeup to movie stars
that wouldn’t cake or
crack, even under
hot studio lights.
1910 Sarah Breedlove
became known as Madame
C. J. Walker and sold Madam
Walker’s Wonderful Hair
Grower. She moved her
company to Indianapolis
where she built a factory, hair
salon, and training school. As
she developed new products,
her empire grew.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
1900 1905 1910 1915
1935 Max Factor created
pancake makeup to make
actors’ skin look
natural on
color film.
1938 Arnold F. Willatt
invented the cold wave that
used no machines or heat.
The cold wave is considered
to be the precursor to the
modern perm.
1941 Scientists developed another method of
permanent waving that used waving lotion.
Because this perm did not use heat, it was
also called a cold wave. Cold waves replaced
virtually all predecessors and competitors, and
the terms cold waving and permanent waving
became practically synonymous.
1960s Vidal Sassoon turned
the hairstyling world on
its ear with his
revolutionary
geometric cuts.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
© Zastol`skiy Victor Leonidovich, 2010; used
under license from Shutterstock.com.
1940 1950 1960
2000 According to a Vance Research Services’ study
of 1,500 salon owners, 30 percent of salons used
a computer for business while at work and
44 percent used it for business at home.
Sixty-five percent of respondents had
home Internet access, while just
17 percent had it in their salons.
1
59306_C01.indd 10
10
2003 Sebastian International
introduces the first consumeroriented DVD to the professional
salon industry, in order to speak
directly to the consumer.
2005 Most salons have their
own websites and use e-mail
to communicate. Point-of-sale
software and computerized
appointment scheduling are
in widespread use.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
© Borodaev, 2010; used under license
from Shutterstock.com.
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
Part I: Orientation
1/26/11 2:53 PM
© Natalia Lisovskaya, 2010; used
under license from Shutterstock.com.
500 BC 50 AD 1000 1500 1850
500 BC During the golden age of Greece,
hairstyling became a highly developed
art. The ancient Greeks made lavish use of
perfumes and cosmetics in their religious
rites and personal grooming. Greek women
applied preparations of white lead onto
their faces, kohl around their eyes, and
vermillion upon their cheeks and lips.
50 BC Queen Cleopatra
took dedication to beauty
to an entirely new level
by erecting a personal
cosmetics factory next to
the Dead Sea.
AD 1000 Persian physician
and alchemist, Avicenna,
refined the process of steam
distillation. This ushered in
the modern era of steamdistilled essential oils that
we use today.
1837–1901 To preserve the health
and beauty of the skin, women used
beauty masks and packs made from
honey, eggs, milk, oatmeal,
fruits, vegetables, and other
natural ingredients.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
1920 1925 1930 1917 Madame Walker
organized a convention
for her Madam C. J.
Walker Hair Culturists
Union of America. This
was one of the first
national meetings
for businesswomen
ever held.
1920s The cosmetics
industry grew
rapidly. Advertising
expenditures in radio
alone went from
$390,000 in 1927 to
$3.2 million in 1930.
1931 The preheat perm method
was introduced. Hair was
wrapped using the croquignole
method. Clamps, preheated by
a separate electrical unit, were
then placed
over the
wound
curls.
1932 Chemists Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough
pioneered a method that used heat generated by chemical
reaction: small flexible pads containing a chemical mixture were
wound around hair strands. When the pads were moistened with
water, a chemical heat was released that created long-lasting curls.
Thus the first machineless permanent wave was born. Salon clients
were no longer subjected to the dangers and discomforts of the
Nessler machine.
Also that year, Charles Revson of Revlon fame marketed the
first nail polish—as opposed to a nail stain—using formulas
that were borrowed from the automobile paint industry. Lawrence
Gelb, a New York Chemist, introduced the first permanent haircolor
product and founded a company called Clairol.
© Bogdan Ionescu, 2010; used under
license from Shutterstock.com.
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
1970 1980 1990
1970s French
hairdressers introduced
the art of hair weaving
using aluminum foil.
1980s Makeup went full circle, from
barely there to heavily made-up
“cat-eyes” and the heavy use of eye
shadows and blush. Also, the salon
industry evolved to include day spas,
a name that was first coined by
beauty legend Noel DeCaprio.
1990s Haircolor
became gentler,
allowing all ethnicities
to enjoy being blonds,
brunettes, or redheads.
1998 Creative Nail Design
introduced the first spa pedicure
system to the
professional
beauty industry.
1999 Spas hit their stride
as big business. According
to the International
Spa Association (ISPA),
consumers spent $14.2
billion in about 15,000
destination and
day spas.
© Robyn Mackenzie, 2010; used under
license from Shutterstock.com.
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
2006 Brazilian
straightening treatments
are introduced in the U.S.
Part I: Orientation
59306_C01.indd 11
2007 Haircolor becomes the largest
hair care category in terms of in-salon,
back bar, and take-home color refresher
product sales. The green movement takes
off in salons, with many positioning
themselves as eco salons and spas
striving for sustainability. In April, the first
American television reality-competition
show for salons, Shear Genius, debuts.
2008 There is an explosion in
salons using social networking
sites to do business. Twitter, which
was introduced in March, 2006,
becomes the next big thing in
social networking with clients.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
2009 Many beauty
manufacturers have Mobile
versions of their Websites.
Access to instant online
technical education and color
formulas becomes common.
11
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did you know?
Although cosmetologists who
work in salons and spas do
not have to join a union to be considered for work or to be
entitled to certain benefits of
employment, to work on films,
television shows, and theater
you may need to join a union.
The unions have different names,
one of the largest is the Makeup
and Hairstylists Union, also known
as the International Alliance of
Theatrical Stage Employees,
Moving Picture Technicians,
Artist and Allied Crafts of the
United States and Canada,
AFL-CIO, CLC (IA).
You may also need to join the
Makeup and Hairstylists Guild,
or the Actor’s union.
•Salon trainer. Many companies, such as manufacturers and salon
chains, hire experienced salon professionals and train them to
train others. This kind of training can take many forms, from
technical training to management and interpersonal relationship
training. A salon trainer can work with small salons, as well as large
organizations and trade associations, to help develop the beauty
industry’s most valuable resource—salon staff and personnel.
•Distributor sales consultant. The salon industry depends heavily
on its relationships with product distributors in order to stay abreast
of what is occurring in the marketplace. Distributor sales consultants
(DSCs) provide information about new products, new trends, and
new techniques. This specialty provides an excellent opportunity
for highly skilled and trained cosmetology professionals. The DSC
is the salon and its staff ’s link with the rest of the industry, and
this relationship represents the most efficient method that outside
companies use to reach the salon stylist.
•Manufacturer educator. Most manufacturers hire their own
educators to train stylists and salon staff to understand and use
the company’s hair care, haircolor, and chemical-service products.
Mastery of the company’s product lines is a must for manufacturer
educators. An accomplished educator who is a good public speaker
can advance to field educator, regional educator, or even platform
educator, appearing on stage at shows in the U.S. and around
the world.
•Film or theatrical hairstylist and editorial
stylist. Working behind the scenes at magazine
and Internet photo shoots or backstage on
movies and TV sets all starts with volunteering
to assist. Even someone right out of school can
volunteer by calling agencies, networking with
photographers, or asking other hairdressers who
work behind the scenes for advice. The days
are long—up to eighteen hours on soap opera
sets—but once you clock the specific number of
hours required by your state of residence, you
can join the local union, which opens many
doors. All you need are persistence, networking
skills, reliability, team spirit, and attention to detail.
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12
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
© FXQuadr, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.
•Cosmetology instructor. Have you ever wondered how your
instructor decided to start teaching? Many instructors had
fantastic careers in salons before dedicating themselves to
teaching new professionals the tricks of the trade. If this
career path interests you, spend some time with your
school’s instructors and ask them why they went
into education. Educating new cosmetologists can
be very trying, but it can also be very rewarding.
Part I: Orientation
1/26/11 2:54 PM
ACT ivity
You may think you already know which area of cosmetology interests you
most. But as you learn more, that can change. To help you determine the
best area of speciality, interview a salon owner or a specialist in your area.
Ask the following questions:
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
• • • • • Why did you choose the specialty you did?
What special skills are required?
What type of training was required to become a specialist?
How long did it take you to get really proficient?
What’s the most exciting thing about your specialization?
To find someone to interview, ask your instructors for ideas, visit local
salons, go to trade shows, or search the Internet for specialists in your
area—or anywhere! Many salon owners, colorists, texture specialists,
business experts, and educators can be found through social
networks like Facebook, Myspace, LinkedIn, and many others.
This field requires constant continuing education, particularly in
working with wigs, hairpieces, and makeup.
LO3
These are but a few of the many career paths awaiting you on the
road to a lifelong career in cosmetology. The wonderful thing about
the professional beauty industry is that there are truly no limits to what
you can do if you have a sincere interest in learning and giving back to
your industry. Keep developing your skills in the specialities that interest
you, and you’ll soon be building and enjoying an extremely creative and
unique career.
Salon Management
If business is your calling, you will find that management opportunities
in the salon and spa industry are quite diverse. They include being an
inventory manager, department head, educator, special events manager
(promotions), assistant manager, and general manager. With experience,
you can also add salon owner to this list of career possibilities. To ensure
your success, it is wise to enroll in business classes to learn more about
managing products, departments, and—above all—people.
Salon manager is a potential career path for a cosmetologist, but it requires
a very different skill set. As a result, some managers of large operations
are not cosmetologists. Salon managers must have an aptitude for math
and accounting and be able to read documents such as profit and loss
statements. They should understand marketing, including the roles of
advertising, public relations and promotions, and what makes these
programs successful. Much of management involves the business side of
the salon—making it profitable—while keeping clients and employees
Part I: Orientation
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Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
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T he field of cosmetology has broadened to encompass areas of specialization, including esthetics and nail
technology. As the cosmetology industry continues to grow, opportunities for professionals increase.
ccording to a study by the National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts and Sciences (NACCAS),
A
salons employed around 1,683,000 professionals in 2007, and 53 percent of salons had job openings. Nearly
three-quarters of salon owners with positions to fill could not find qualified applicants, even though about
38 percent of the jobs were for inexperienced professionals with less than a year on the job.
hile many factors, including the national economy, affect the industry, the salon business usually
W
withstands recessions much better than other industries. To make each day in school positively impact your
future, focus on your studies, read trade publications cover-to-cover, become a member of relevant trade
associations, and attend workshops outside of school. Remember, your license will unlock countless doors,
but it is your personal dedication and passion that ultimately determines how successful you become.
happy. Titles and the accompanying responsibilities vary widely from
salon to salon, and it is always possible to learn on the job. However,
supplementing your experience with formal business education is the
quickest path to success.
• Specialty salons
• Full-service salons (offering hair, skin, and nail services)
• Photo, video, or film sets (preparing models and actors
for camera appearances)
• Day spas (offering services that emphasize both beauty and
wellness) (Figure 1–12)
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
Beyond choosing a specialty, you must decide on the type of facility
where you will work. Many options are available:
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
To learn more about the various types of salon business models,
see Chapter 32, The Salon Business. There you will find a wealth
of choices, including national and regional chains and low- and
high-end salon opportunities.
Figure 1–12
A day spa may offer nail, hair,
body, and skin services.
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Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
Part I: Orientation
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Review Questions
1. What are the origins of appearance enhancement?
2. What are some of the advancements made in cosmetology during the nineteenth, twentieth,
and early twenty-first centuries?
3. What are some of the career opportunities available to licensed beauty practitioners?
Chapter Glossary
cosmetology
Part I: Orientation
59306_C01.indd 15
The art and science of beautifying and improving the skin, nails, and hair and
includes the study of cosmetics and their application.
Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities
15
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Procedure
16-4
Right
Handed
Long-Layered
(180-Degree)
Haircut
Implements
and Materials
Preparation
Procedure
• Perform
You will need all of the
following implements,
materials, and supplies:
15-1
Pre-Service
Procedure
See page 323
Procedure
1
•Cutting cape
•Cutting or styling comb
1 Drape your client for
a shampoo.
•Haircutting shears
•Neck strip
•Shampoo and conditioner
2 Shampoo and condition the hair as necessary.
•Shampoo cape
3 Escort the client back to the styling chair. Secure a neck strip
•Spray bottle with water
•Towels
•Wide-tooth comb
16
59306_C16.indd 408
408
around the client’s neck. Place a cape over the neck strip and fasten
in the back. Fold the neck strip down over the cape so that no part of
the cape touches the client’s skin.
4 Detangle the hair with the wide-tooth comb.
Chapter 16 Haircutting
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
•Sectioning clips
Part 3: Hair Care
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5
5 Part the hair into five sections,
as in step 5 of Procedure 16-3.
8
6
7
6 Begin at the top of the
crown by taking a ½-inch (1.25
centimeters) subsection across the
head. Comb straight up from the
head form and cut straight across.
7 Work to the front of the
top section by taking a second
½-inch subsection. Direct the first
subs­ection (guideline) to the second
one and cut to the same length.
8 Continue, using the previously cut subsection as your guideline to cut
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Yanik Chauvin.
a new ½-inch subsection throughout the top section.
9a
9b
10
10 Repeat on the left side.
11
11 Complete the back sections.
12 Continue cutting using ½-inch horizontal subsections and working
from top to bottom until the hair no longer reaches the guideline.
Part 3: Hair Care
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9 On the right front
section, using ½-inch horizontal
subsections, comb the hair straight
up and match to the previously cut
hair (guideline) in the top section.
Continue working down the side,
using ½-inch subsections until the
hair no longer reaches the guide.
Chapter 16 Haircutting
409
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