VIRTUAL Desire SLEEPLESS IN CYBERSPACE ONLINE DATING IN EGYPT Remember the Information Superhighway? That was what we thought the internet would be like, back in the 1990s. These days the World Wide Web is more like an old city of winding souks and secret alleyways. You can find anything there, including a one night stand, a girlfirend or a wife. And Egyptians love it. Online dating in the region is enjoying a 10-year-long boom. eniGma’s James Purtill logs on to find out what all the fuss is about . . . I am not lonesome. But for the last two weeks I have been looking for love online. Kind of. I have been trawling naseeb.com, dateinegypt.com and arablounge.com - websites like Manhattan skyscrapers through which anonymous men and women stare out. I have been chasing down online daters and lassoing them into interviews they try to escape. And I have endured many quizzical looks from the office webmaster. I have set up dating accounts under false names and email addresses and photos. I have asked each of my friends whether they know anyone who is doing online dating. It’s for a story, I assure the friend quickly, duplicitously, not wanting to be known as the lonely guy who goes online for love. Online dating is estimated to be worth U.S. $3.5 billion worldwide and, perhaps surprising- 16 www.enigma-mag.com ly, about a third of Egyptian internet users surveyed by a 2010 BBC World Service global poll thought the internet was a good place to find a boyfriend or girlfriend. Young, low-educated males were the most fervent. Girls and boys date online for different reasons, a study of American University in Cairo students has found. Boys generally do it because of a lack of self-confidence, while girls do it because it is frowned on for them to form a relationship with a boy, but they want to anyway. It’s like a big open secret. But the study was done way back in 2003. That is, in the Time Before Facebook. If similar research were done today, one problem would be distinguishing when a user is angling for a date, and when they’re just friending. The buzz these days is around websites like letsclique.net, which access a users’ online network of friends to recommend potential dates. Hang on, finding dates through friends; isn’t that so 1990s? Funnily enough, yes it is. The genesis story of online dating could go something like this: In the beginning there was the word, which was written on paper and sent across the seas, usually with a nice photo. Sometimes it was called courting, sometimes matchmaking. In the early 1990s the word was digitised. Then photos too. Then things started moving really, really fast. By the new millennium words and photos were being traded in programs like Yahoo Messenger, MSN Messenger and ICQ. Then dating websites followed. They started out general and all-embracing, like match.com, then as they multiplied exponentially they became more specialised and boutique. Looking to meet a fellow Vietnamese? Try VietVibe.com. A woman from Haiti? Haitidating.com. Want a mixed race romance? Go to Blackandwhitedates. com. Fetish? E-fetishdating.com. Now we’re priming for another jump. We could go either two ways. Or both. The dating websites most popular with Egyptians tend to have one of two distinct identities – one is about no-strings-attached dating and the other looks a lot like old-school matchmaking. You could say internet dating itself has a wife and a mistress; a husband and a boytoy; depending on what you want, it can be the dutiful agent of marriage, or the impish trickster that tears it all down again. “Two generations ago people were married by exchanging pictures,” says Naila Hamdy, an American University in Cairo assistant professor of Mass Communications. “Once upon a time you would meet your love at the canal side, now you meet them through the internet café.” He met his current girlfriend, a Romanian Christian living in Iran, six years ago in a Yahoo online forum on religion. They remained friends until last year when they started going out, but have not yet met. He admits that he finds the traditional social and financial obligations of Egyptian dating and marriage “exhausting”. But he also thinks internet relationships can be more honest, frank, and supportive than the orthodox kind. “People talking on the internet don’t hide their hotel. We are introduced through a mutual friend and go for tea. Ibrahim has been going out for one year with a Latvian girl living in London who he met on wayndating.com. “We have not yet met” he tells me, adjusting the cuffs of his pinstriped suit jacket. “She will come to Egypt in 2013.” Zizou wears a silver engagement ring he bought for his American fiancée the day she left Egypt to return to the States. That was a year ago now. They chat online every day. “If she says she loves me, then she really loves me. No one is pushing her online” And it works in reverse too, she says. “A lot of young Egyptian men have emigrated unmarried and are looking for a young likeminded wife from back home. It doesn’t have to be dating in the Western context. It can be a novel way to find a spouse.” Hamdy sees online dating as slipping neatly into a traditional role: contrary to all that 1990s Silicon Valley rhetoric, the internet has not become a global village of anarchy and pornography. It can be a pretty conservative place: to register on Mawada. com I must swear by Allah that I am here in good faith to find a marriage partner, and “not for dating, friendships, (or) fun marriage”. The sites’ user profiles do not include photos. Mawada.com is an extreme example of the ‘walled garden’ approach to internet sites, in which users are free to play within strict parameters. Waiting on the far side of the wall are open chatrooms like MSN Messenger, or chatroulette. com. There are also thornier, wicked kinds of gardens, like the notorious ashleymadison.com, which promotes marriage infidelity (“Life is Short. Have an Affair.”), or dime-a-dozen generic dating sites like datemefree.org. Ahmed is one of the three Egyptian men who agreed to speak to me about their online dating experienc. He is a 37-year-old self-employed architect. Dialing into the original ‘3-tel’ service way back in 1992, he was among the very first internet users in Egypt. The country was relatively closed at that time – it had just three television channels – but the internet was unrestricted. He found the international discussion of taboo subjects like religion, sex and politics invigorating. I make the obvious observation that all this online relationship building seems like a lot of trouble. And it could all come to nothing. Surely there are easier ways to date? Ibrahim and Zizou are two eligible young men. They party. They apparently meet lots of girls and foreigners through work. They describe themselves as good Muslims: they pray every day and have abstained from sex before marriage. Neither is online for a one night stand, and each is dismissive of the specialised dating websites. “I think it’s fake,” says Zizou. “I would not trust these people. Everyone is lonely on these websites.” But still. “If she says she loves me, then she really loves me,” says Zizou. “No one is pushing her online. What she says is very true.” Ibrahim leans forward. “Some guys do not trust relationships on the internet,” he says, confidentially. “They say it’s just to get a visa to travel outside of Egypt. That’s not true. But I don’t care anyway. I just want to be with her.” I wonder whether some of the attraction of online dating actually dervives from its hardships and deprivations. Absence makes the A profile set up on dateinegypt.com for this article proved popular heart grow fonder, and all that. And this has no use-by date. This suspended state of delicious anintentions,” he tells me, hunched against the ticipation may last until the actual date. And that cold in a woolen winter coat and smoking a can be a long time away. shisha. “Online it’s very hard to hide intentions from each other. Your mind is very focused on Ahmed, the architect I met earlier, tells how the text. In real life our eyes occupy all the at- he once made friends online with a mysterious Greek woman who offered to fly him to a Roman tention of the mind. ” hotel, all expenses paid, on the condition they Once, Ahmed says, he printed and framed a sleep together. A good Muslim, Ahmed refused. photo his girlfriend had sent and then mailed They stayed friends and a year later he suggested it to her as a birthday present. “She liked it.” they meet while he was stopping in Greece en But it turned out the photo was of her friend. “I route to Bulgaria. All went according to plan, began to get worried. I asked her for her height until she was refused access into the transfer and weight. Finally she went on webcam,” he lounge. They resigned themselves to talking to each other from separate info-desk telephones says. “Oh my God. She was very beautiful.” on either side of the security barrier, much like Zizou and Ibrahim are in their mid 20s and each they had always been doing. That was 10 years work in customer service – Zizou for a mobile ago. They have never met. “She’s married with phone company, Ibrahim for a nearby luxury kids now,” he says. “We stay in touch.” www.enigma-mag.com 17