Roatan Cruise Port
Overview
Imagine a place where lobster is a common lunch fare, traffic lights don't exist, and you can hail a taxi on the water.
Welcome to Roatan, the largest of the Bay Islands, 30 miles north of Honduras. Almost 40 miles long and just 2.5
miles at its widest point, the remote island boasts white-sand beaches, pristine bays and spectacular coral reefs.
Roatan is a true melting pot. Its 40,000 people are a mix of Spanish, British, Paya Indian and African, the result of a
stormy history that includes conquistadors, pirates and slave-traders. In the mid-17th century, the Spanish relocated
the Paya Indians in an unsuccessful attempt to rid the island of British pirates. In the late 18th century, the island was
repopulated when British troops deported thousands of Black Caribs who had sided with the French during a battle
over St. Vincent. Another group of immigrants arrived from the Caymans in the 1830's.
Today, tourism has overtaken commercial fishing as Roatan's top industry. Part of the world's second-largest barrier
reef system, Roatan's waters are teeming with colorful coral and sponges. Divers and snorkelers swim alongside
schools of fish, as well as whale sharks, barracudas, mantas, dolphins and turtles. The water feels like what you'd
find in a bathtub, averaging 80 to 84 degrees, and snorkeling there is like watching high-definition television, with
visibility a fantastic 80 to 120 feet.
Dozens of world-class diving and snorkeling sites are accessible from sandy white beaches around the island and
through numerous operators, congregated on West End village, the hub of the island's activity. Marlin, tuna and
wahoo lure anglers year-round, particularly for the annual fall bill-fishing tournament. Roatan is also a mecca for
water sports. Kayaking, water-skiing, sailing and wake-boarding are popular activities.
The former pirate haven offers travelers unspoiled charm and exceptional marine life. Like many of its Caribbean
neighbors, the island is in transition. Expensive new homes and resorts stand in sharp contrast to clapboard tinroofed houses. In addition to cruise ships, direct flights from Miami and Houston and weekly charters from Milan
are bringing large numbers of tourists.
Best Cocktail
One of the best drinks on the island is Salva Vida, a famed local beer. It can be found at just about any bar or
restaurant. If you're not the beer-drinking type, pina coladas are always a sure bet.
Best Souvenir
Locally made handicrafts are great souvenirs. You can pick them up at stalls located throughout the areas
surrounding port. You'll find everything from clothing and jewelry to cigars and chocolate -- all at decent prices. In
Coxen Hole, the most authentic offerings can be found if you head beyond the immediate port area, which is a bit
more commercialized. Don't worry: it's easily walkable.
Language
Though Spanish is the official language of Honduras, most people on Roatan speak both Spanish and English.
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Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The official currency is the Lempira (named for a martyr who fought the Spanish). U.S. dollars are widely accepted,
as are credit cards and traveler's checks. In Coxen Hole, Banco Credomatic (open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to
5 p.m. and Saturday 9 a.m. to noon) provides cash advances on credit cards and features a 24-hour ATM. An ATM
is also available at Mahogany Bay in the center of the main plaza. For the most up-to-date conversion rates, check
out www.xe.com.
Where You're Docked
You'll be anchored on the south side of Roatan at Coxen Hole, the largest city and capital of the Bay Islands, is
located just west of the airport. This busy gateway is named after the pirate, John Coxen.
Hanging Around
Coxen Hole: Besides Internet access, an ATM, a small shopping mall and a handful of restaurants, there's little for
tourists. It's a good place to buy cold drinks and sandwiches before venturing east toward French Harbor and Oak
Ridge, and west toward Sandy Bay and the West End. You can also easily walk past the port gates onto the local
streets, where you'll find authentic food and souvenirs.
Mahogany Bay: Just off the pier, you'll find a strip mall-type central plaza, featuring souvenir shops, restaurants, a
general store, jewelry kiosks, shore excursion information, car rentals, an ATM and, often, live music. There's also a
chairlift that will give visitors unlimited rides to and from Mahogany Beach -- a nearby 10-acre private beach -- for
$5 per day.
Getting Around
A paved road runs north from Coxen Hole to West End and east to French Harbor. An unpaved road continues east
to Paya Bay and Camp Bay. Taxis, rental cars, motor bikes and buses are available in West End, Coxen Hole and
French Harbor.
By Taxi: Some unscrupulous cab drivers have taken advantage of cruise passengers. Before entering a taxi, confirm
the fare. If the driver says 20, make sure he's quoting Lempiras, not dollars. Most cabbies accept both U.S. dollars
and Lempiras.
By Bus: Mini-buses run in either direction from Coxen Hole. Flag down a bus, and pay the driver's assistant -- about
one U.S. dollar on most routes.
Watch Out For
Coxen Hole: If you travel beyond the immediate port area, be prepared to deal with pushy locals, often children,
who will offer everything from cab rides and excursions to local wares. You may also be asked for money. It's also
important to know where you're headed before venturing inside; we were told by two young children that certain
bars along the main street, just outside the port area, are actually brothels in disguise.
Mahogany Bay: The whole setup is a bit of a tourist trap. If you decide to explore elsewhere and want to rent a car,
be warned that the roads tend to be narrow, and traffic lights are basically non-existent.
As you would in any unfamiliar place, keep all unnecessary valuables onboard in your cabin's safe.
Don't Miss
Snorkeling and Kayaking: After paddling down the coastline at either Half Moon Beach or West Bay Beach, leave
your kayak ashore to explore the magical coral reefs with your mask and snorkel. Snorkeling equipment is available
for rent through tour operators, as well as dive shops, some restaurants and gift shops.
The Butterfly Farm: This fun attraction is located just before the entrance to West End. Hundreds of exquisite
butterflies, representing 15 to 20 species, flit around in a 3,000-square-foot enclosure. It's also home to stunning
hummingbirds, parrots and toucans. Guided tours are offered daily, except Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Don't
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forget your binoculars and camera.
Been There, Done That
Scuba-diving: Sueno del Mar Dive Center, voted best on Roatan by Scuba Diving magazine, offers introductory
diving lessons. Certified juniors, ages 10 to 15 years, must dive with an adult.
Horseback-riding: Kids and beginners can join experienced equestrians in a memorable horseback-riding trip along
the beach and into the hills at West Bay (Keifetos Resort) or between Calabash Bight and Paya Bay on the island's
south side (Roatan Ridge Ranch).
Beaches
Best Beach for an Active Day: West End offers beaches, coral reefs for snorkeling, eateries and water sports like
sea-kayaking, diving and sailing. At the entrance to West End is palm-lined Half Moon Bay beach. Be prepared for
large crowds on days when ships are in port.
Best Beach for Families: Best West Bay Beach, near the northern tip of the island, features clear, shallow water
(about five feet deep) teeming with coral and colorful fish right offshore. With a dozen stations marked by buoys,
the Natural Aquarium Snorkel Trail at the Bay Islands Beach Resort at Sandy Bay is a fun way for kids to see
everything from eagle rays to sergeant majors. It's open daily from 9 a.m. until 4:30 p.m.
Lunching
Casual, In-Town Joints: In the center of Coxen Hole, Eldon's Supermarket's cafeteria scrambles up eggs, along
with fried beans and tortillas It's open Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Lighthouse, located in
West End on the south side of the point, offers some of the best fish tacos, grilled lobster and conch soup on the
island. It's open 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Gourmet Lunching: Las Rocas, set on a rocky point at West Bay, is known for authentic Bay Island dishes like
shrimp with rice, chicken in coconut milk, and beef in coconut milk. It's open for lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to
9:30 p.m. daily. Pura Vida, in the center of West End, cooks up homemade pasta, pizza and seafood. Visit from 7
a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Staying in Touch
Roatan is the only Bay Island with a telephone system, but pay phones are rare. To call home or check e-mail, try
Main Street Mall in Coxen Hole, or check out the Rafi Stamp Company (also in Coxen Hole, on the main street,
just outside the main terminal area), which offers three computer bays and Internet access. Rafi is open from 8 a.m.
to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday.
Shore Excursions
Best for Nature Lovers: The Iguana Farm on the outskirts of French Harbor is an unusual refuge for more than
2,500 reptiles. At lunchtime, hundreds of iguanas of all shapes and sizes duke it out for veggies. Roatan's iguanas
have been hunted to near extinction for their meat. Visit daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Gardeners will enjoy strolling
through the lush Carambola Botanical Gardens in Sandy Bay, home to hundreds of exotic tropical plants, including
chocolate trees, orchids and heliconias. It's open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Best Overall Tour: Bottle-nosed dolphins are the scene-stealers at the Roatan Institute for Marine Sciences. The
Institute uses Anthony's Key Resort in Sandy Bay to care for about a dozen dolphins. The residents put on a show
(Monday through Friday) and swim with visitors. The popular marine mammals attract a crowd; it's best to make
reservations at least three to four days in advance. Sharing a building with the Institute, the Roatan Museum features
exhibits on the Bay Islands.
Best for Diving and Snorkeling: Roatan's central coast is off the beaten path, offering spectacular snorkeling and
diving. Valley of the Kings and Parrot Tree are two outstanding snorkeling sites. Nearby, Mary's Place, with its
spectacular black coral, is considered the Grand Canyon of wall-diving, and it's the island's premier dive site. A dive
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master leads visitors down one of two sheer-walled vertical faults cut through the reef. Subway Watersports offers
private snorkeling and diving excursions.
Best for Families: For adventurous families with children ages 10 and older, the Tabyana Beach and Canopy Tour
combines a great beach and snorkeling experience with the adrenalin rush of a zip line canopy tour. The Tarzan-like
adventure starts at Creation Rock, where you are outfitted in a harness, pulley and gloves and attached to a cable.
With 11 stretches of cable and 13 tree-top stations towering 18 to 30 feet above the ground, this is one ride the
family isn't likely to forget.
For More Information
On the Web: Honduras Tourism Institute
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Roatan
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean Traveler Boards
Belize City Cruise Port
Belize City Overview
Bordering on Mexico, Guatemala and the Caribbean, Belize is the second smallest country in Central
America (after El Salvador), with an area of approximately 9,000 square miles that includes numerous
small islands off the coast known as cayes. More than half of the mainland is covered with dense
forests, and at its longest point Belize is 176 miles long while its greatest width is 88 miles. Long a
strong advocate of environmental protection, the government has set aside approximately 20 percent
of its land as nature reserves.
Belize has been attracting steadily increasing numbers of U.S. visitors as it has become better known
as a reasonably priced destination offering some of the best diving in the Caribbean. It also continues
to increase in popularity as a cruise destination and is often included as one of the ports of call on
Western Caribbean itineraries.
Diving is Belize's main claim to fame due to an almost unbroken line of reefs and cayes extending for
150 miles along its coast that make up the longest reef system in the western hemisphere (and the
second longest in the world). While many cayes are tiny and uninhabited, some like Ambergris Caye
are sufficiently large to have built resorts that attract divers from around the world.
Several important Mayan sites on the mainland, such as Altun Ha and Xunantunich, make for
excellent day trips and are included on shore excursions by most cruise ships. As a matter of fact,
Belize has the highest concentration of Mayan sites of all the countries in Central America.
Belize City, with its wooden and brick buildings, exudes some colonial charm, but the downtown area
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also has many seedy neighborhoods, and tourists should beware of walking around the city after dark.
For cruise passengers, Belize City is primarily a jumping off point for tours and excursions to its many
natural and historical attractions.
Best Cocktail
Belikin beer at Riverside Tavern, owned by Belize's only brewery. Open for lunch and dinner. (#2
Mapp Street; 501-223-5640)
Best Souvenir
Bracelets carved of zirticote hardwood, from the National Handicrafts Sales Centre near Tourism
Village. Also find an assortment of locally produced mahogany and rosewood carvings, slate carvings,
jippi jappa baskets and artwork. (2 South Park Street; 501-223-3636)
Language
English is Belize's official language and is spoken by virtually everyone.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
Belizean dollar (exchange rate is roughly $2 Belize to $1 U.S.); all shops and merchants readily accept
U.S. dollars (most also accept credit cards) so it is unnecessary to change money. ATM's are plentiful
in both the Tourism Village and the rest of the city.
Hanging Around
All ships anchor in Belize City harbor and passengers are whizzed from ship to shore via speedy
Belizean tenders; takes approximately 20 minutes to tender ashore. All passengers disembark at docks
in Belize's Tourism Village.
Getting Around
Taxis are readily available at Tourism Village as well as in the city and at hotels. Taxis do not have
meters and although most drivers charge a standard fare, make sure you determine the fare before
getting in so as to avoid being burned upon arriving at your destination. Look for the green license
plate of licensed taxis. There are also water taxis and ferries that depart from the Marine Terminal to
the outlying cayes, including the larger resort cayes such as Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye. A trip
from Belize City to San Pedro, the largest town on Ambergris Caye, takes around 80 minutes.
Do It Yourself Driving: It's also possible to rent a car although this is not recommended due to the
poor condition of many roads. Traffic accidents are common. Rental agencies in Belize City include
Hertz-Safari (11A Cork Street; 011-501- 2-235395) and Crystal Auto Rental (Northern Highway mile
marker 5; 011-501-223-1600). Crystal offers free shuttle service, use of ice chest, cell phone and child
safety seat. Try Airport Car Rental for additional car rental agencies at the airport.
Watch Out For
When using cash -- particularly with merchants that accept U.S. dollars -- be sure you get change in
U.S. currency. Don't buy items that are made from sea turtle shells, black coral or Triton's trumpet
shells. Also, almost all the major attractions are at some distance from the city; so if you're exploring
independently and hiring your own transportation, make sure you are back in time at Tourism Village
for the last tender departure for your ship.
Don't Miss
Diving and Snorkeling: Number one on the hit parade of favorite outdoor activities due to the
astounding sites along the barrier reef. Some of the best dive sites lie just off Ambergris Caye. Charter
operators offer day trips that include transportation. However you get to Ambergris Caye, head for the
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main town of San Pedro, where many of the dive operators are clustered. For a list of local dive shops
see Diving on Ambergris Caye. A favorite snorkeling area is known as Shark Ray Alley (one hour by
speedboat from San Pedro) where it's possible to get "up close and personal" (petting is permitted)
with nurse sharks and sting rays. Hol Chan Marine Reserve is a three-square-mile dive site.
Mayan Heritage: Among the best of Belize's Mayan sites is Altun Ha, a heavily excavated site that
is a convenient day trip out of the city. Once a major trading and ceremonial center, it consists of
several impressive temples and tombs highlighted by the Temple of the Masonry Altars. Another
important site is Xunantunich, located near the Guatemalan border that can only be reached by
crossing the Mopan River on a hand-cranked ferry. Situated here are six major plazas ringed by more
than 25 temples and palaces; largest of the remaining temples is Il Castilo which is worth climbing for
the spectacular panoramic view from the top.
Wildlife Lovers: Belize City's three major sites containing wild creatures are all located fairly close
together. Those who would rather not venture very far from the city can check out The Belize Zoo
with its more than 125 animals, all native to Belize. Daily 8:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Western Highway mile
marker 29; 501-220-8004). A little farther out is the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary. Daily 8 a.m. –
4 p.m. (Western Highway mile marker 30.8) and the Community Baboon Sanctuary (across the street;
501-660-3545), which is home to a substantial number of black howler monkeys, called “baboon” in
the local Creole dialect.
Birders: Belize is a birder's delight as it is home to more than 500 different species from toucans to
egrets. Two highly recommended ways to encounter birdlife is on a guided boat trip to the Little
Guana Caye Bird Sanctuary and/or the aforementioned Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary.
Been There, Done That
For the ultimate in R&R at the beach, head to Caye Caulker, a 45-minute ferry ride from the Marine
Terminal. Just five miles long and one mile wide, laid-back Caye Caulker is ideal for sun worshipping
on one of its gorgeous beaches. There are no cars here so everyone rides around either in golf carts or
on bicycles which can be rented by the hour or for the day. Divers can hop boats that go out to the
barrier reef just 10 minutes away.
Explore Belize's caves. In ancient times, the Mayans believed that caves were the "underworld" and
were revered as sacred places. Options for exploring the network of caves include tubing or by kayak
or canoe. Some of the tubing is at a place known as "Jungle Paw," where the float through a series of
caves in an inner tube lasts about two hours.
Lunching
The menu at The Smoky Mermaid features fabulous lobster and fresh fish dishes. Serves breakfast all
day on Saturday. Daily 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (The Great House, #13 Cork Street; 501-223-4759)
Nerie's serves less expensive and more Belizean fare. Try rice and beans, stewed pork or fish burger.
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. (Queen & Daly streets; 501-223-4028; 12 Douglas Jones
Street; 501-224-5199)
Eat with the locals at Big Daddy's Diner, a cafeteria-style restaurant. Monday – Saturday 7 a.m. – 5
p.m. (Central Market; 501-227-0932)
Four Fort Street is a great place to soak up local atmosphere and enjoy native cuisine. Monday Saturday, 7-10 a.m., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. (#4 Fort Street; 501-2-30116)
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If you're spending the day on Caye Caulker, grab a burger, tacos or sandwich at Marin's Restaurant
and Bar on Luciano Reyes Street.
On Ambergris Caye, Ruby's Cafe serves coffee, pastries, tostadas, burritos and sandwiches. Open 5
a.m. to 6:30 p.m. (Front Street, San Pedro; 501-226-2063)
Staying in Touch
The Click & Sip Internet Cafe is located inside the Belize Tourism Village. (Fort Street)
The National Handicraft Center (2 South Park; 501-223-3636) has Internet access.
On Caye Caulker, Youngs Internet Cafe is in the center of the island. (Back Street; 501-660-7283)
Shore Excursions
Best nature lover/history buff combo: An ideal tour for those who want to view creatures in the
wild and also explore Mayan ruins is the Altun Ha and River Wallace tour. Travel first up Belize's
Wallace River (also known as the Olde Belize River), inhabited by a host of creatures including
manatees, crocodiles, iguanas and many species of tropical birds. The second half of the tour is spent
at Altun Ha, one of the most important Mayan sites in the country. Duration: 5-6 hours.
Best soft adventurer excursion: Tubing along Belize's Sibun River provides a unique look at
limestone caves formed before the dawn of mankind. Duration: 6-7 hours. Old Port Promotions and
Belize Cruise Excursions pick up and drop off at the Marine Terminal.
Best for snorkelers: Travel in a snorkel boat to the uninhabited Goff's Caye, a tiny caye 12 miles
offshore where there is abundant reef life and magnificent coral formations. Here it's possible to
snorkel either from the beautiful beach or directly off the snorkel boat. Duration: 4 hours.
Best "interactive" shark excursion: Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get up close and personal
with some of Belize's most "people-friendly" underwater creatures. Speedboats transport passengers
directly from the ship to Shark Ray Alley where they can snorkel amidst nurse sharks and stingrays;
excursion also includes lunch stop in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Duration: 7 hours.
For More Information
Call 800-624-0686, or visit www.travelbelize.org
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Belize
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean Exchange
Costa Maya Cruise Port
Costa Maya Overview
If you build it, they will come. Costa Maya, the newest port in the Western Caribbean, may be located on
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a peninsula but in effect it feels more like a private island created from scratch expressly for cruisers.
Costa Maya is located on the Caribbean Sea approximately 100 miles south of Playa del Carmen and
quite close to the border of Belize.
Costa Maya is what you'd expect if, say, Disney World decided to create its own private island in
Mexico: a man-made tourism village with bars, restaurants, shops and pools at the ready. The faux
village itself was created solely to woo cruise passengers and it has a myriad of facilities -- pools,
restaurants, bars, shops and a small beach (though it's too rocky to swim). Since Costa Maya first began
accepting cruise passengers in February of 2001, the developers have added a beach house and water
sports area, which is actually well away from the main village and is typically used by cruise lines as a
shore excursion option.
Beyond that? What's interesting is that in developing an entire destination out of scratch in a place whose
only settlement was the nearby village of Mahahual, 200 residents strong, the folks who created Costa
Maya had to build everything. They worked with Coca-Cola to install water sanitation systems (and yes,
it is safe to drink water within the Costa Maya confines). They built brick-paved roads and concrete
cottages for the employees who pretty much all come from elsewhere and needed housing.
For travelers who just want to get into the "don't worry, be happy" mindset, the lure of Costa Maya can
pretty much consume the day. Those who want to venture further have intriguing options, too. The
region is home to some lesser known (but still important) Mayan ruins. The site most cruise passengers
come here to see is Chacchoben, a city dating back to around 350 A.D.
Another place worth visiting beyond Costa Maya's boundaries is the seaside village of Mahahual. Once a
simple haunt for fishermen, now there are seaside huts serving fresh ceviche, lovely white sand beaches
with shallow surf (perfect for families) and way, way too many entrepreneurs selling the usual souvenirs.
If Costa Maya -- and Mahahual -- feel shiny new these days it's because they are. In August 2007,
Hurricane Dean, a five category storm, came ashore here and created much havoc and destruction. In
Costa Maya. The port, which was closed for 14 months for rebuilding, required cosmetic facelifts for its
restaurants, shops and pools. The Uvero Beach Club, which was totally destroyed, was completely
rebuilt.
In Mahahual, residents took advantage of the terrible hurricane to rebuild and improved the village's
appearance in the process. New is a gorgeous 1.5 mile beach promenade with restaurants and shops
alongside. Costa Maya welcomed its post-Hurricane Dean cruise ship in October 2008. Currently, Costa
Maya can handle at least three ships, resulting in more than 6,000 visitors per day.
Best Cocktail
Any fruity concoction sold in a yard-long plastic tumbler called, appropriately, "la yarda." If three feet of
banana daiquiri or strawberry margarita doesn't float your boat, quench your thirst with a few bottles of
Bohemia or Sol, the requisite beers.
Language
Spanish, though English is widely spoken, as most places in the area cater to tourists.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The Mexican peso; one U.S. dollar is equivalent to approximately 10 pesos. However, many vendors will
gladly accept U.S. currency.
Where You're Docked
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Ships dock right at Costa Maya's purpose-built facilities.
Hanging Around
A "faux" village created solely for cruise passengers is just steps from the dock. The pier-side village
features a number of free-to-use pools, one of which is huge with a swim-up bar; restaurants, bars and
shops including the usual suspects like Diamonds International and a small beach lined with chairs and
hammocks for relaxing, though it's too rocky for a good swim.
Getting Around
A taxi ride into Mahahual is about $5 per person roundtrip. Local buses to Mahahual are located behind
the shopping area; tickets for the $3 fare are must be purchased in advance and are sold at a booth
located in the same area. Golf carts and Jeeps are also available for rent for around $12 an hour or $60
per day, respectively.
Don't Miss
For first-timers to Costa Maya, a trip to the Mayan ruins at Chacchoben, in a jungle setting roughly an
hour or so by motorcoach from the port, is an interesting and worthwhile outing. Chacchoben (the Mayan
word for "red corn") dates back to around 350 A.D., but was largely unexplored until 1999. Visitors can
ascend the steep stairs of "El Gran Basamento," the only structure available for climbing. What's also
kind of special is that the site has not been fully excavated; our guide explained that wherever you see a
hill in this otherwise flat area of Mexico you can bet there are ruins beneath. The site also houses a gift
shop selling a genuinely distinctive collection of crafts.
Take the five-minute cab drive to Mahahual, a quirky and eccentric fishing village with lots of
character. The main "boulevard," a street of sand that runs between a pretty white beach and some
concrete shacks on the other side, has now been made a pedestrian throughway. Though the shopping is
standard at best (owners are persistent to sell typical cheap trinkets), the beach is clean -- and the water,
protected by a reef, is very calm and shallow so it's a perfect place for families. You can also get beach
massages ($20 for 45 minutes), and rent Jet Skis and kayaks.
Been There, Done That
Xcalet is a small, off-the-beaten-path village within the Xcalak National Reef Park. Here, visitors can
dive or snorkel among shipwrecks (there have been hundreds over past centuries) in Chinchorro Banks,
Mexico's largest coral atoll.
Lunching
By the Port: The chain-restaurant-style Mexican food at Mamacita's, the pier-side beach-front restaurant,
plays second fiddle to the fun atmosphere and live entertainment (who would have thought men in
sombreros would rock out on a Rolling Stones cover?).
In Mahahaul: The best eatery along the strip is El Faro, which means lighthouse in Spanish; order the
conch ceviche and quesadillas with homemade guacamole.
Shore Excursions
For Active Travelers: Explore Costa Maya's coastline on a bike and kayak adventure. Cyclists ride along
a dirt road and through the fishing village of Mahahual for views of the water before arriving at the beach
and boarding two-person kayaks. The tour is approximately 2 1/2 hours and costs about $48 for adults
and children (minimum age: 12).
For Ruins Enthusiasts: If you have already seen Chacchoben or just want to kill two birds with one stone,
take a Mayan explorer excursion that combines the archaeological ruins at Kohunlich, near the border of
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Belize, and Dzibanche, known for beautiful pottery and breathtaking temples. The tour is approximately
eight hours and costs about $98 for adults and children.
For Beach Bums: Spend the day at popular Uvero Beach. Cruise line beach break packages,
approximately $38 for children and adults, include entrance to the beach, open bar, use of hammocks,
non-motorized water sports (based on availability) and roundtrip transportation. There are bars and a fast
food restaurant (plan for an a la carte experience there).
For Off-Roaders: Reach the beach in style: A bilingual guide will take you through the jungle in a World
War II class S Mercedes Benz Unimog. For more, check out www.costamaya-mexico.com.
Staying in Touch
There's an Internet cafe in the village of Costa Maya.
For More Information
On the Web: www.costamaya-mexico.com
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Costa Maya
The Independent Traveler: Mexico Exchange
Cozumel Cruise Port
Cozumel Overview
Before I'd even taken my first cruise -- never mind sailed in the Western Caribbean -- I had a preconception of Cozumel as being a shopper's paradise that just so happened to be in Mexico. Folks I knew
who'd been there came back with nothing but pictures of them shopping -- and of course, the things they
bought.
Indeed, Cozumel offers darn good deals on jewelry, Mexican handicrafts, T-shirts and other souvenirs,
mostly in the main -- actually, make that only -- town of San Miguel. But what was pleasing to discover
is that there's much more to Cozumel than duty-free shopping. This small island (measuring just 28 miles
long and 10 miles wide) lies just off the coast of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula, and offers incredibly
diverse options for watersports' lovers, due partly to its proximity to spectacular coral reefs. And along
with snorkeling, beach bumming and boating are popular activities, scuba diving is one of the biggest
draws here.
Cozumel also has a rich enough background to satiate any history buff's appetite. In fact, the island
derives its name from the Mayan civilization that settled there approximately 2,000 years ago. According
to Mayan legend, Cozumel was the home of Ixchel, the goddess of love and fertility. It's said that when
religious temples were dedicated to her, she sent her favorite bird -- the swallow -- as a sign of her
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gratitude. For this reason, the people coined the island "Cuzamil" -- Mayan for "Land of the Swallows."
There are several important Mayan sites on the island (such as San Gervasio and El Cedral) and even
better preserved ones on the (fairly) easily accessible mainland -- Chichen Itza and Tulum are hot
numbers as far as day trips and shore excursions are concerned.
Although Cozumel is Mexico's largest Caribbean island (and its most populated), it wasn't until the
1960's that this once-sleepy fishing village became a tourist attraction in its own right, following a
documentary in which Jacques Cousteau declared it one of the most beautiful scuba diving areas in the
world. These days, Cozumel is a major cruise port welcoming more than one million cruise passengers
each year, and as many as eight ships per day. But even with all this progress, Cozumel has held onto its
non-touristy side; only one-third of the island has been developed, leaving large stretches of pristine
jungle and sandy beach basically untouched.
Best Cocktail
No drink can beat the luscious margaritas served at Pancho's Backyard in San Miguel. Although, the
margaritas at Nachi-Cocom Cozumel Beach Club are right there. Another tasty libation imbibed in many
bars is the "michilada" (beer mixed with lime juice).
Best Souvenir
Mexican arts and crafts, like hammocks and leather goods, make great souvenirs. Tequila is also a
popular take-home item; though the prices might not be the lowest on the island, selection of premium
tequilas at Los Cinco Soles is impressive.
Editor's note: Remember this about the sale of black coral, which is an endangered species: Though there
are dealers wielding government-issued permits to sell the stuff, coral jewelry is listed on the U.S.
Department of State's list of "wildlife and wildlife products" to avoid -- at the risk of confiscation and
possible fine.
Language
Spanish is the official language, but nearly all shops and eateries have English-speaking personnel.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
Local currency is the peso. However, most stores prefer dollars, so it's not necessary to change money.
ATM's are located in several areas throughout the main plaza in Cozumel, near the cruise docks.
Where You're Docked
Cozumel has three piers, all of which are found on the built-up, western side of the island. Punta
Langosta is ideally situated right in downtown San Miguel. The International Pier, the oldest cruise ship
pier on the island, is located about 1.5 miles from San Miguel (walkable). Carnival Corp.'s Puerta Maya,
located about five miles from San Miguel, was built to be somewhat of a stand-alone destination, with
restaurants, jewelry stores, local craft carts and a beach.
Hanging Around
Pierside: Adjacent to the Punta Langosta pier is one of Cozumel's best jewelry stores: Rachat & Romero
at Avenida Melgar 101. An especially good store for Mexican handicrafts is Viva Mexico at the
intersection of Avenida Melegar and Adolfo Rosado.
Getting Around
On Foot: Depending on your pace, downtown San Miguel is about a 30- to 45-minute walk from the
International Pier (there are sidewalks). Since it can get very hot en route, most passengers opt to take a
taxi into town. Once there, downtown San Miguel is very walkable, with most shops, bars and
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restaurants clustered around the waterfront.
Taxis: Taxis line up at the entrances to the piers and cost about $5 per ride. Rates to the beaches can cost
$10 to $15; to avoid being ripped off be sure to settle on a fare before departing. Word to the wise: Some
drivers aim to overcharge for longer trips, so bargain carefully and don't be taken for a ride. Also, if you
decide to give the walk a go and then decide midway that you've made a mistake, it is easy to grab a cab
-- just wave when the driver toots his horn. And again, be sure to settle on a fare before he takes his foot
off the brake.
Moped: This is a popular and inexpensive way ($35 per day) for one or two people to get around
Cozumel, although many cruise ships warn against doing so because of the dangers of an accident due to
reckless drivers, hidden stop signs and stretches of severely potholed roads. I once rented a moped that
broke down halfway around the island. It took me most of the afternoon to get in touch with someone to
come and repair it. As a result, that was the first and last time I rented a moped on Cozumel.
Fun Car or Scoot Car: These automatic-transmission buggies resembling souped-up golf carts are another
possible option. Able to reach speeds of 45 miles per hour, they cost $35 for the first hour and another
$10 for each additional hour, or $85 for the whole day. Look for the rental booth on the ground floor of
the Punta Langosta shopping arcade.
Watch Out For
Be aware of mopeds, motorcycles and bicycles. They're prevalent, and drivers won't always yield to
pedestrians. As you should in any city, leave unnecessary valuables in your cabin safe. Finally, be sure to
negotiate and settle on a fare before getting into any taxi.
Don't Miss
San Miguel: Cozumel's one and only "big" city (some refer to it as a large town) literally owes its
economic well-being to the growth of the cruise industry, which has transformed this once-sleepy fishing
village into a tourist outpost, crammed with stores selling every imaginable souvenir as well as
handicrafts and jewelry. While many restaurants offer Mexican fare, there are others geared toward
American tastes, with several U.S. fast-food chains represented, along with such notable names as the
Hard Rock Cafe. Most shops stay open until at 5:30 or 6 p.m. (or when the last cruise ship departs).
San Miguel revolves around its two landmarks: the "zocalo" (town square), known as Plaza del Sol, and
the downtown pier. Easily the most distinctive and fabulous store on Cozumel is Los Cinco Soles (we've
easily lost a whole day here!), which sells gorgeous Mexican crafts (plenty of the unusual along with
more common items), silver jewelry and fashions. There's a tequila bar, and the shop wraps around the
wonderful Pancho's Backyard restaurant. Also of interest to shoppers: Adjacent to the Plaza del Sol is the
modern Villa Mar Complex, an air-conditioned mall with several good silver shops (be sure to look for
the 925 stamp indicating quality silver); among the best buys in the mall are hand-woven hammocks,
shell and black coral jewelry, and local handicrafts. There are also many duty-free items for sale such as
perfumes and watches.
Scuba diving and snorkeling are the top priority for many visitors. Along with Grand Cayman, Roatan
and Belize, Cozumel offers the best diving and snorkeling sites in the Caribbean. In some areas, visibility
reaches 250 feet, and prime sites for "divehards" include Palancar Reef (the second longest reef system
in the world), Chankanaab Caves and La Ceiba Reef. At La Ceiba, the underwater universe contains a
sunken airplane that came to rest here after being blown up for a Mexican disaster movie.
A word to the wise: Be sure to keep an eye out for dive operators that post C.A.D.O. stickers in their
windows; these are considered the island's most reputable dive establishments.
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Glass-bottom boat tours provide a glimpse of the reefs for aqua-phobics and others who prefer to stay
dry; some of these tours also stop occasionally for snorkeling breaks.
Although Cozumel is not a haven for culture vultures, there are some interesting exhibits on
underwater life and the ecosystem of the surrounding reefs, as well as displays on Mayan and colonial
life at the Museum of the Island of Cozumel, located three blocks from the San Miguel ferry dock.
While the best-preserved Mayan ruins are located on the mainland, there are several smaller Mayan
sites scattered around Cozumel. The best of the local sites is at San Gervasio, located approximately
seven miles from San Miguel. During its heyday, San Gervasio served as a ceremonial center dedicated
to the fertility goddess Ixchel. The oldest site is El Cedral, about three miles from San Miguel, though
little remains here except for a Mayan arch and a few small ruins.
Been There, Done That
Playa del Carmen: Accessible via fast ferry, this mainland resort town is a fantastically bustling place
that's chock-a-block with shops (some of the tacky touristy variety; others, particularly in a newish
conclave just off the ferry dock, much more upscale) and cafes. It actually is better known to Europeans,
so there's an indefinably foreign air -- and you'll feel a million miles away from Cozumel. The "Mexico
Water Jet" ferries passengers back and forth between Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan peninsula and
Cozumel. The ferry operates continuously, and the crossing takes approximately 40 minutes; depending
on sea conditions, the ride can range from super-smooth to extremely bumpy. The ride costs about $9
(you can also pay in pesos but be prepared to pay in cash) each way. Info: CozumelMyCozumel.com.
Playa del Carmen is also the jumping-off point for the region's best-known Mayan sites. Try a day trip to
the ruins of Chichen Itza, the Yucatan's most renowned, which contains a mix of temples, pyramids and
carvings dating back to the 7th and 8th centuries. Other Mayan ruins are located at Tulum, situated on
the coast 35 miles south of Playa del Carmen. The site features several Mayan temples -- including a
stunning temple right on the coastline -- government buildings and a beach below the ruins. Day trips to
both Mayan sites can be booked through local tour operators. Three of the most reputable tour operators
that offer day trips to Chichen Itza and Tulum are Caribe Tours (from the U.S. phone 011-52-987-8723100), Intermar Caribe (011-52-987-872-1535) and Turismo Aviomar (011-52-987-872-5445).
Independent travelers should know that an excursion to Chichen Itza spells a long day -- about a threehour bus ride in each direction; don't forget to factor in the ferry ride from Cozumel. This is one of the
times we actually recommend taking this trip as part of your ship's shore excursion program because the
logistics are so complicated.
Just a short ride from Tulum is Xel-Ha, a lagoon that was considered sacred by the Maya. It has been
converted into an underwater park featuring an aquarium and areas for swimming, snorkeling, sunning
and dining.
Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve lies on a limestone flat just south of Tulum. The 1.3-million-acre
reserve is home to endangered manatees, crocodiles, jaguars and turtles and features more than 1,000
varieties of plants, 350 species of birds and 70 different mammals. More than 1,000 Maya live within the
reserve.
Another fascinating day trip is to one of the island's nature preserves such as Chankanaab National Park.
There's a beachfront area with bar and grill, botanical garden and archaeological park on-site. The park's
Dolphin Discovery program features captive dolphins that visitors are permitted to swim with for a fee.
Punta Sur is another eco-tourist park for visitors interested in learning about Cozumel's native flora and
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fauna. The park encompasses mangrove jungles, white sand beaches and reef formations. There is also
an information center where visitors can watch a 20-minute video and learn about the different
ecosystems, reefs and native birds, along with other wildlife inhabiting the area such as turtles and
alligators.
Beaches
The best beaches for swimming, snorkeling or lounging under the sun are on the western side of the
island, where the winds are light and waters usually calm. Don't forget plenty of sunscreen unless you
want to be fried a bright shade of lobster red. The surf on the eastern side of the island tends to be much
rougher.
Best Beaches for Water Sports: Chankanaab Park and Reef, is terrific for snorkeling, scuba diving, beach
bumming and eating. Paradise Beach offers an excellent and wide variety of water sports rentals along
with a restaurant and two bars. Playa San Francisco is another good choice.
Best Secluded Beach: Playa Escondida may have few amenities, but that keeps the crowds away.
Another peaceful option is Playa Chen Rio, on the eastern side of the island.
Lunching
Pancho's Backyard (Av. Rafael Melgar 27 between calles 8 and 10, Monday - Friday from 11 a.m.,
closed on Sunday) is a great place for margaritas and wonderful Mexican specialties. Here, you can sit
inside on the terrace and cool off beneath whirring ceiling fans while listening to the soothing sounds of
trickling fountains. Pancho's is attached to one of the best shopping venues on the island.
Guido's (Av. Rafael Melgar No. 23 between calles 6 and 8, Monday - Saturday from 11 a.m., closed
Sunday) is considered the island's best Italian restaurant. Choice tables are located on the patio out back.
For atmosphere and tradition, don't miss Casa Denis (open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.), which has
been here since 1945 and has some amazing historic photos on the walls, including a young Fidel Castro.
Some of Cozumel's best home-cooked cuisine (particularly for breakfast) is served up daily at La
Choza (Rosada Salas 198 at Av. 10 Sur from 7 a.m.), a family-run restaurant where specialties include
pozole (corn soup), pollo en relleno negro (chicken in blackened sauce) and their signature avocado pie.
Carlos 'n Charlie's (Av. Rafael Melgar #11 on the waterfront, open daily from 10 a.m.) is the island's
cornball, always-crowded tourism hot spot which specializes in ridiculously huge tropical drinks and bar
food. Many tourists apparently like the raucous frat-party atmosphere, and after more than one libation
you'll be lucky to stagger back to your ship.
La Mission, located just off of Av. Rafael E. Melgar (the main street that runs in front of the pier), is
open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and serves phenomenal, authentic Mexican food at very reasonable prices.
We highly recommend the tortilla soup.
For a truly cultural experience that was recommended to us by a local, check out Las Palmas. It's open
until just after dinnertime, and it's located between 3rd Street and Morelos. It specializes in authentic
Mexican food, but be warned: the staff doesn't speak English, so bone up on your Spanish before
visiting, and be prepared to point at what you'd like from the menu.
Shore Excursions
Best Choice for Divers: Experienced divers can take advantage of the opportunity to dive with one of
Mexico's best dive operators; a two-tank dive includes one dive at famed Palencar Reef. Duration: four
hours; price $89. There is also a beginner's scuba-diving program lasting 2.5 hours for $79.
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Best Choice for Non-Divers Who Want to "Go Deep": A journey to a maximum depth of 100 feet below
the surface in an Atlantis submarine for a narrated tour of Cozumel's spectacular underwater
environment. This well-designed vehicle is air conditioned and equipped with large viewing ports.
Duration: 75 minutes; price $105.
Best Choice for Soft Adventurers and Snorkelers: The Ocoee & Snorkel Tour combines traveling around
Cozumel in a Jeep convoy with a visit to Punta Sur Nature Preserve and some quality time snorkeling in
the Caribbean. Along the way you may also see saltwater crocodiles; all snorkeling equipment is
provided. Duration: five hours; price $69.
Best for Snorkelers: An excursion via a 65-foot catamaran to some choice snorkeling sites. The
catamaran has a spacious sundeck, there are snorkeling instructors accompanying each excursion and
equipment is provided -- all you need to bring is sunscreen, a towel, a bathing suit and a camera. After
snorkeling there is a beach party with free beer, margaritas and soda. Duration: 3.5 hours; price $65.
Best Choice for Snorkelers and Dolphin Lovers: This unique excursion takes you to Chankanaab Park
where you can enjoy some of Cozumel's best snorkeling and also spend approximately 30 minutes in the
water with dolphins and dolphin trainers who guide you through the experience. (Minimum age for this
excursion is six.) Duration: three hours; price $155.
Best For History Buffs: Tours to the ruins at either Chichen Itza or Tulum, the two prime Mayan sites on
the Yucatan. Duration: seven to 10 hours; price $75.
Staying in Touch
Located between 10th Ave. North and Benito Juarez, you'll find Mexatel, which offers a handful of
computers and Internet access. However, the employees we encountered didn't speak any English, so be
prepared to whip out your pocket dictionary if you don't speak Spanish.
For More Information
On the Web: www.cozumelinsider.com
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Cozumel
The Independent Traveler: Caribbean Exchange
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