GENERATOR
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 20:10:01 -0500
From: John Massey <john.massey#tcs.wap.org>
Subject: GMC: ONAN Generator Output
I have a 1977 Royale and we are finally back at home after being out for
about three months. I was checking out my batteries and decided that while the
weather was nice I'd run the generator for an hour which I do each month. I
rarely use it since generally have shore power.
While it was running I decided to check its output with my digital
voltmeter and got a disturbing reading. With a 1500 watt load it was putting
out 145 V ac, removing the load, it went to 155 V ac. Checked the meter against
the shore power and it read 115V ac. What gives?
During the past months I've used the generator several times to power the
TV and electric heater with no problem.
I've got the GMC in August and one of the things I do not have is an Onan
owners manual.
John Massey
From: Ralph Edelbach <edelbach#tcnj.edu>
To: gmcmotorhome#mailinglists.org <gmcmotorhome#mailinglists.org>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:52 AM
Subject: GMC: Onan tips and reading lamps??
>When we bought our '74 Glacier in January, the 4 KW Onan started from both
inside control panel and by using the start switch on the unit. A few weeks ago
I tried and didn't have any luck. Same problem yesterday.
>
>Symptoms: Upon depressing the start switch on the unit, I get a few seconds of
a soft, dull clicking sounds which stops even though the start switch is still
depressed. If the switch is released and pressed for a second time or more, the
noise occurs again. After charging the battery last night, it is doing the same
thing this morning.
>
>Since I'm planning on taking it to the vintage sports car races at Summit
Point, West Virginia in a few weeks and they have no hookups, I'd like to have
power if possible. If not, I'm still going but will have to rough-it a bit
more. Just like the "goode olde days."
>
>Looking at the GMC maintenance manual, I see how to checkout the "no cranking"
condition by jumping various terminals on the PC board and I will do that in
the few days but I assume the noise is either the fuel pump starting and then
shutting off since the carb float chamber is probably full or the fuel solenoid
valve opening as I'm attempting to crank the unit.
>
>Any other "hot" tips to look at if the terminal jumping doesn't work??
Thanks for the info.
>
Ralph..........First thing, check the battery terminals and make sure they're
tight. Check and make sure you've got a good ground. It could be as simple as
this! Take a look at the small high intensity reading lamps in the stores or
even garage sales. They all have a transformer that reduces 110 to 12 volts.
1
Throw the transformer and base away and mount the rest of the lamp anywhere you
need it. They even come in different colors to co-ordinate with your GMC.
Jim Davis sivad#harborside.com
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 21:40:55 -0500
From: "Russ Bethel" <rbethel#stic.net>
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan tips and reading lamps??
Had a similar situation today. Found that I was not getting steady voltage
from the battery to the Onan. I replaced the battery cable to the Onan and
everything was fine as far as cranking. I could not get it to start though and
found that the points had corroded. After changing the points and condenser
everything worked fine.
Russ Bethel
1976 Glenbrook
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 16:17:22 -0400
From: "Ralph D. Edelbach" <edelbach#tcnj.edu>
Subject: GMC: Onan starter
I discovered that the problem with my 4000 Watt Onan is that the heavy lead
coming out of the solenoid and going through the starter case is broken. When I
disconnected it to clean the terminals, it came off in my hand. Just the
connector to attach the line to the solenoid and about 1 inch of line. I'm
going to try to get the starter off with out taking too much off the engine but
if I remember correctly, the manual says to remove a bunch of stuff. At least
it isn't a major engine problem.
Strange but the wire broke with the coach sitting in my drive-way. I started
the Onan a few times after buying it in January but haven't had it on the road
except for a 10-mile trip. Guess it was just time for the wire to break. Better
in my driveway than on a long trip.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 16:37:07 EDT
From: RickStapls <RickStapls#aol.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan starter
Ralph,
Must be a Bosch starter. Used to see same thing on VW Beetles: wire into
starter just corrodes away. Worst of all, the heavy braided copper wire is
spot welded to the field coils inside the starter. Time for a rebuilt starter.
I'm gonna check mine and apply grease or WD40 or something to the wire.
Rick Staples
------------------------------------Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 13:05:43 -0400
From: Ralph Edelbach <edelbach#tcnj.edu>
Subject: GMC: Onan starter
Thanks to anyone who might be working to provide me with some information about
my Onan 4KW starter problem but I just found a new unit at Golby's for $201
plus shipping so I'm just glad that I didn't have to junk the whole unit. A
local Onan distributor could get one from the warehouse in a week or so but
their price was $223 plus shipping.
2
Thanks again.
---------------------------Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 22:34:18 -0500
From: "William D. Minor" <wdminor#earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: GMC: synthetic oil in Onan
I use Castrol Syntec in my 4.0 Onan. It definitely cranks better and appears
to run cooler and with more power. I also added a flap on the lower to prevent
hot air from recirculating while camped to help with the cooling.
Bill Minor
'73 GMC 230 Sequoia
--------------------------Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 17:40:07 -0600
From: Robert Shimanek <robshim#up.net>
Subject: GMC: ONAN 6KW Starting Problem
Acuating the rocker switch at the Generator Control Panel or remote switch
inside the coach
Problem is as follows:
1. Push to start switch, engine tries to fire (like on one cylinder) and
starter drops out immediately. This continues to repeat the cycle until you
release the switch.
2. Jumped terminals 9 & 11 on generator terminal board and engine ran normally
indicating K2 relay contacts are defective.
3. Checked K2 relay operation on the bench by applying 12 volts to relay coil.
Relay operated normally. Checked the contacts for continuity which were OK no
resistance.
4.
Also checked K2 relay operation and continuity which were also OK.
5. Checked for operation fuel pump, electric choke, and fuel solenoid which
were OK.
6. Needed points, condensor, plug wires and plugs so I changed them even
though the engine ran when terminals 9 & ll were jumped.
7. Connected wire from battery ground to starter solenoid. Engine started and
operated normally. Noted that the K2 & K3 relays operated normally.
8. Checked Alternator DC voltage output which was 14.1 to 14.2 which would
cause K2 to operate and keep K3 relay closed for continued engine operation.
9. Checked the generator board for PC board cracks and continuity along with
the wiring on the board.
10.
I hate to replace the board for $120.00, if I am missing something.
11. Little background that I had last weekend. Before I left my home I
checked the generator for operation being that the coach is stored inside for
the winter months. Engine and generator operated normally.
3
12. I traveled approximately 350 miles to my destination in lower Michigan.
When I went to start the generator from the remote switch in the coach--the
unit would not start I pulled the generator out and it started from the
generator panel & ran normally after a couple of attempts. This happed once
before a couple of years ago.
13. I kept the unit operating for approximately 4 hours with the top air
conditioner operating. (98 degrees outside)
14. When I left the parking lot I had my wife shut down the unit from the
remote switch. She said all indications on the panel after holding down the
switch in the stop position that the unit was shut down. She has accomplished
this task many times with no previous problems.
15. However, when I arrived at the campsite I noticed the generator was
operating again so she shut it down again as before.
16. Now during the night 2:30AM a loud banging was coming from under the rear
of the coach near the generator (That was a quick wakeup). To my amaze the
generator was trying to start itself. So I immediately hit the remote stop
switch in the coach and the unit stopped trying to start.
17. Looking for suggestions from the experts to correct this problem.
Maybe the problem is in front of me and I can't see.
Will appreciate your help
Bob
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 23:12:31 -0700
From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN 6KW Starting Problem
Bob,
I am impressed that you followed such a logical testing procedure, most people
would stop and fork out the bucks for the board without further investigation.
In this situation, with the unit starting OK from the side, it looks like the
PC board may be working. If you have no operation on the remote, the chassis
ground to generator, wires to the remote, or the molex connector may have
problems. I would run a 4 ga. wire to ground then to the generator block
first. Then check continuety of each wire to the remote circuit.
Let me know what fixes it.
Jim Bounds
www.gmccoop.comRobert Shimanek wrote:
-------------------------------------Date: Fri, 22 May 1998 15:29:39 -0600
From: Robert Shimanek <robshim#up.net>
Subject: GMC: To correct Onan varied voltage problem.
1. Before making adjustments run the generator about 15 minutes under a light
load to reach normal temperatures.
2. Engine speed determines the output voltage and current frequency of the
generator.
4
3.
Increasing the speed increases the voltage and frequency and vice versa.
4. An accurate voltmeter should be connected to the generator output.
one of the receptacles in the motorhome to check the voltages.
I used
5. A binding in the bearings of the governor shaft, in the ball joint or in
the carburetor throttle assembly will cause erratic governor action or
alternate increase or decrease in speed hunting. A lean carburetor adjustment
may also cause hunting. Springs have a tendency to lose their calibrated
tension through fatigue after long usage. If all governor and carburetor
adjustments are properly made and the governor action is still erratic,
replacing the spring with a new one and resetting the adjustments will usually
correct the problem.
6. Speed Adjustment----With the warmed up unit operating at no load, adjust
the tension of the governor spring. This is located on top of the unit and is
connected to an arm with small drilled holes near the shaft.(You will see a
spring with an adjustment nut. This adjusting nut is turned to obtain a voltage
and speed reading within limits.)
7.
Sensitivity Adjustment---Check the voltage with no load and with a load.
8. Adjust the sensitivity to give the closest regulation (least speed and
voltage difference between no load and full load) without causing a hunting
condition.
9. To increase the sensitivity (closer regulation), shift the spring toward
the governor shaft. That may be one hole closer to the shaft.
10. An adjustment for too much sensitivity will cause alternate increase and
decrease of engine speed (hunting).
11. To decrease sensitivity, shift the spring toward the outer end of the
governor arm. Too little sensitivity will result in too much difference in
speed between no load and full load conditions.
12. Now any change in the sensitivity adjustment usually requires a
corresponding spring (spring tension) adjustment.
VOLTAGE FOR 120 VOLT 1 PHASE 2 WIRE
Maximum Voltage No-Load-----126 VOLTS
Minimum Voltage Full Load--110
VOLTS
Hope this helps you out.
Bob
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 18:53:54 EDT
From: davegreenberg1#juno.com (David L. Greenberg)
Subject: GMC: Battery Boost switch
Be careful. Early models didn't have a rocker switch for the battery boost and
sometimes the switch is left in the boost position or on. GM later changed this
to a rocker switch. You only use this to put all batteries together to help
5
start your engine or Onan. Not to be used (and unnecessary) while the engine is
running.
Dave
David Lee Greenberg
-----------------------------------Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 21:21:23 -0700
From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: 4000w onan generator
Robert Teed wrote:
>
> I know nothing about My Generator...When I open the door to the Generator I
see an old Battery with cables and a green steel box with what appears to be a
bent wire handle with the word " Release " and an arrow below it. Sliding this
handle to the right does what? Should this allow the steel box to "open" from
the front? Should the steel box "Slide" out? How do I access the Generator
motor? I know I can get all this info from Cinnabar but I'm on a tight budget
right now.
> Thanks,
>
Rob Teed
>
74 Painted Desert
Rob,
Well, you are on the right track, you have eyed that green thing in the back
correctly as your generator. You would probably do well to get the factory
service manual which will carry you further in understanding the workings of
the generator. The manual is available through Cinnabar.
As far as the operation of your 4K genny, does it start? If it starts, then
shuts down, check the oils located on the lower left inside corner of the unit
as you look at it. This would be the unit detecting a low oil situation and
shutting the ignition off as protection. If it tries to start but will not
catch, jump pins 9 and 11 on the PC board. This bypasses the operation of the
PC board, if it now starts you have electrical woes. If not, pull off the
rubber tube going to the carb. and spray a little starting fluid down its
throat. If it sputters and tries to start, your trouble is fuel related.
This will get you started, if you need to go further, give me a call at work
1-877-275-4462.
Jim Bounds
www.gmccoop.com
----------------------------Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:41:48 -0700
From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz#bytedesigns.com>
Subject: GMC: Power Plant repair/replacement
I havn't dug into it yet, but the last time I started (attempted to start) the
GenSet it seemed to want to run away and I stopped it (via the stop button).
Let it sit for a bit and then started it again. Seemed more regular but back
fired. However, the AC never came on.
Anyone experienced anything similar?
My GenSet is (was) due for a checkup/overhaul anyways but I was hoping to do
6
it a little later.
Has anyone replaced the original GenSet in a drawer with another set? I'd like
to find something quieter but I don't want to give up space. I have a large
coach battery installed behind the GenSet and would hate to loose it. I
currently have a 6kw but could probably do with a 4kw as I only run one 15amp
AC and 2 30 amp chargers which draw less than 15 amps together.
Also considering Solar, but that'll be another project :-)
Heinz
'76 Transmode
Yes, When we purchased our 73, 10 years ago, the original genset was missing,
after removing the tray frame and installing a shelf, we mounted an ONAN
Emerald set, problems with this are:
cooling air flow has to be allowed for, exhaust piping has to be
custom built, but that's fairly easy to do. (simple once you decide
on how and where to hang.)
The Emerald has been a very reliable set, easy to service. Pulled it out and
sent it to the shop for a complete check and service in Nov, didn't even have
to leave the coach. If I had to do it over again, I would go with the new
Marquis set a little more powerful and more silent. The Emerald in not noisy,
but the Marquis is supposed to be better.
Heinz:
When you shut your generator off, the throttle goes to full open and
accumulates gas in the cylinders and muffler. When you start it too soon after
shutting down, the back fire occurs due to those fumes being ignited.
As for going into overspeed I believe your governor is not working properly or
it could be sticking due to rust in the connections. Move the throttle rod
connected to the governor and see if it moves freely. Also check the spring
for tension.
The lack of AC--your generator's brushes maybe worn or not making contact,
wires could be broken, blown fuse or circuit breaker open, defective bridge
rectifier.
This may be dumb question but may be overlooked when you don't have AC. Is
your external electrical power cord plug connected to the electrical jack
located in the cord storage compartment?
Bob
------------------------------Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:44:06 -0700
From: Heinz Wittenbecher <heinz#bytedesigns.com>
Subject: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem
In my '76 Transmode the power panel includes a switch-over relay with a builtin delay. This gives the GenSet time to stabilize before the relay kicks in
moving AC source from shorepower to GenSet.
7
The Panel, which includes the converter (which I no
Progressive Dynamics Inc of Marshall, MI as best as
nameplates. I missed the timewarp today so will try
thought I'd ask if anyone has anything similar that
get a replacement.
longer use) is made by
I can figure out by old
to call them tomorrow but
I might use in case I can't
It seems there is an AC sensor and a capacitor involved. Leads from the
capacitor connect to the relay coil. I'm assuming the delay is caused by time
it takes for the capacitor to charge and thereby supply power to the coil to
close the relay contacts, or rather switch them. (The relay is a double
pole/double throw)
I am considering replacing it with a manual drop relay if no alternative but
thought I'd check here first.
Does the GMC factory installation have a time delay before the GenSet power
actually comes on line or does it feed AC to the coach as soon as it's been
started?
Thanks in advance.
Heinz
-----------------------------------Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 06:35:37 -0700
From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem
Heinz,
A new design crossover switch is available. I have them in 30 & 50 amp designs.
They incorporate a timer circuit which allows the genny to warm up before it
sees the load. I think they are not over $75.00. Give me a call at work and
I'll give you more info.
Jim Bounds
gmccoop.com
-------------------------------Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 09:19:19 -0500
From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady#npcc.net>
Subject: RE: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem (solid state reply)
Heinz,
Just a simple thought.
Some RV applications use an adjustable delay timer wired in series with the
coil of the relay (delay on make). This 'little black box' has an adjustable
delay before passing current to pull in the transfer switch relay coil and put
the generator in the circuit.
The poop:
Part number TD-68
Sealed Unit Parts Company, Inc.
Allenwood, NJ 08720
"Solid State delay timer"
"Delay on make"
19 to 288 volts
6 second to 8 minute adjustable delay
8
I don't know where you can buy one, but I'd start with Grainger or Graybar
Electric.
We use them at work on the 24 VAC side of multi-ton central air units to keep
them from re-starting when our standby generators first kick in. (I work at a
telephone company).
My recollection is that these only cost about $20 or so, very reliable, and
simpler than an resistor/capacitor type circuit.
I think they use an NE-555 timer inside. They have a single screw hole to mount
them, and they are about 1.5" square with two push on spade lugs.
Hope this idea helps.
Mark
------------------------------Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 18:07:01 EDT
From: <HLBF#aol.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: Genset doesn't fire up anymore
Mine was running like a Singer, stopped her to add oil, noticed cover had
vibrated off circuit board, would not start. Had 2 Onan "experts" tune, etc. one said points preset # factory, other said you can't set timing on Onan, took
her home, gapped the points, broke out the timing light and fired her up - loped bad, rebuilt carb, found exhaust manifold gasket blown where a muffler
expert had just replaced gasket and re-routed exhaust pipe through hole in tray
where Onan expert said it was supposed to go and was causing overheating (then
had to use cutting torch to remove section of tray so drawer would close). Made
new gaskets for exhaust and for choke which heat from blown new gasket had
burned up; would crank but not start, recently found it would crank if hooked
to 50 amp charger, but not now, Jumped 9-11 and 7-1, fired up and ran smooth as
a kitten, did not shut down when un-jumpered, and shut down from genset switch
and remote switch (not supposed to); traced everything to bad K-1 start
relay/solenoid, bought replacement from AutoZone, looked exactly alike,
installed, now dead in the water like yours - only sign of life is fuel
pump when jumpered - would not even crank or make a sound when jumpered,
returned solenoid for exchange, installed, same results, replaced again with
old solenoid and she jumps off again and runs great.
MY DILEMNA - where do I find the correct solenoid??
Took choke apart & cleaned, made new gasket and adjusted, not getting fire thru
solenoid - Onan wants $275 for choke. So far, I've spent over $2,000 on Onan
and still can't depend on it. I'm ready for a Honda or anything else that will
fit drawer - any suggestions??
Thanks!!
HLBF#AOL.COM
---------------------------Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 03:38:19 EDT
From: <RickStapls#aol.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: Genset doesn't fire up anymore
HLBF,
FWIW, remember that a pre-engaging starter solenoid (such as those on our
V8s, AND our Onans) will usually not pull in (engage drive and then complete
the circuit to the starter) unless the starter has continuity. This means no
open windings, bad commutators, or (most likely) worn-out or stuck brushes. If
9
you check a wiring diagram for one of these, you'll see that the solenoid has 2
sets of windings. One, called the pull-in winding, gets power from the key and
GROUNDS through the starter. Once the starter drive has pulled in and the
solenoid switch contacts complete the circuit, this winding no longer has any
effect (12V at both ends), and the "hold-in" winding (grounded to the starter
case) remains energized until the key is released, keeping things going.
Generally, the "hold-in" winding doesn't have enough pull to engage the starter
by itself.
This may or may not be your problem, but it's something to consider before
springing for an expensive solenoid.
Good luck,
Rick Staples
--------------------------------------Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:11:50 -0600 (CST)
From: hdavis@ix.netcom.com
Subject: GMC: Disconnecting Onan flywheel alternator charger
Some of you may remember that I have benn searching for an answer to why my
TrueCharge has been kicking offline sometimes.
I'll try the following suggestion from Duane this weekend and let you all know
how it works out.
"Absolutely no problem disconnecting the Voltage Regulator (Charger) on
the Onan. The Flywheel Alternator is the source of voltage that is used by the
Voltage Regulator to provide a small output for charging an Onan dedicated
(Early GMCs had small Motor Cycle type battery for starting the Onan & were
charged only by the Onan Voltage Regulator). GM quickly recognized that House
Battery could located near the Onan & serve dual purposes. However, the
Voltage regulator was never removed from the Onan (no longer required since the
Dual purpose battery was charge by the Engine alternator while driving & by the
AC to DC converter when shore power is available). The Flywheel Alternator is
required as a feedback signal to the Onan Control Board to identify that the
Onan is running & the starter is automatically disconnected. Also for shut
down function to remove Ignition power.
I have repaired many Onans control problems by disconnecting the wires (typ. 3
wires) going to the Voltage Regulator (faulty VR that are loading down the
Flywheel Alternator output voltage). Remove the wires & tape up. Maintain the
common connection if exist (typ. 2 wires together on one terminal).
We should all remove the VR wires as preventative maintenance!!
Duane"
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc
PO Box 1270
Soquel, Ca 95073
ph: (408) 462-5199
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
/
/
/
/
new product consulting
product readiness reviews
IP reviews
full service marketing
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:40:43 EST
From: Gplymate@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover
10
Who asked about getting a cover for the Onan circuit board the other day?
They are available from the factory through any Onan dealer.
It's the biggest bargain there is for any part for your GMC.
$3.60.
Glenn
78K OR
-----------------------------------
P/N 301-3597.
List price is
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:59:48 -0800
From: Chuck Will <willa@impulse.net>
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover
Hi Glen: Chuck here! I was not aware of the cover. Does it cover the entire
board or just the front. My top is open and exposed. I have a cover that goes
over the front, I should imagine to keep it from shorting out. But if the
cover completely encloses the circuit board we must get one soon. Corrosion is
the biggest enemy of these boards and without the board: No Generator.
Thanks Chuck
----------------------------------Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 23:45:04 EST
From: Gplymate@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover
Chuck, don't get your hopes up. The part I mentioned is an OEM replacement,
just like the one you have; open at the top. I needed one because the original
cover on mine was missing. For $3.60, I couldn't pass it up.
But, now that you mentioned the idea, here's an opportunity. Why doesn't
someone design a cover that would completely enclose and waterproof the board?
Glenn
78K OR (Nothing is waterproof here!)
---------------------------------------Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:31:34 -0800
From: Chuck Will <willa@impulse.net>
Subject: Re: GMC: Washing running hot engines, New Subject
I just got back. Washing an ONAN how? I think the big problem in washing the
ONAN would be getting the Printed cirt board wet. Maybe it should be protected
somehow with a plastic bag. I know the corrosion is not good for the boards.
some of the circuitry is pretty close and corrosion might just get together and
short something out. Maybe sealing the entire board in a clear poly coating
might be ok? Any thoughts on this idea? Chuck in Lompoc.
Thomas G. Warner wrote:
> How many of you guys wash your Onan like that?
> At 11:28 PM 12/5/98 EST, you wrote:
> >Chuck
11
> >Thanks. I too have driven in the rain. Washed an engine or two. I just do
not understand why people are so afraid of new ideas. Oh well I will still do
> >what I think I need to do to my GMC. May not be right but it is what I think
I need to do. You all do what you think you need to do and we will compare
notes later. Might be fun at some rally. WHAT DID YOU DO WRONG? Naw none of us
would admit to that.
> >
> >Take Care
> >Arch
> >>
> >> Arch - not to worry - I frequently wash my toad (89 Jeep Wrangler) engine
> >> at the high pressure car wash. I do it with the engine warm/hot and
running, and never cover the electrical system. (Not recommended for engines
with electronics)
> >
> Tom & Marg Warner
> Vernon Center NY
> 1976 palmbeach
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 98 08:42:15 PST
From: "Diane Skinner" <fairwind@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: GMC: monitor panel
Well, we got the compressor working good. And its too wet to change the shocks
(probably won't stop raining until July) so I thought maybe you guys would help
me with this monitor panel. The circuit board is damaged and there is a chip
out of one corner of the cover. Are these parts available? New or used would
be good. Anyone try to fab the printed circut?? The copper strips are peeling
off and look like too much applyed voltage. What is the reasoning behind the
little resistors?? I realize they are for voltage drop, but do they make the
gauges read half full or what?? That's my list of dumb questions
Thanks for the help
Terry Skinner
Web-footed in Washington
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:07:14 -0800
From: "Mike Finnicum" <songtekpub@msn.com>
Subject: GMC: Washing Generator
I wash mine all the time. I use simple green and house water. I try not to
spray the circuit board area directly but have not covered it. We wash the
coach after each trip (at least 1x per month) and do the gen about 4x a year
with the engine compart and underbody.
No trouble so far.
But thatnks for the suggestion as I will cover it in the future as it seems
like a logical idea. Sure can't hurt.
Mike F
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:00:05 EST
From: Gplymate@aol.com
12
Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover Availability
On 12 Dec., Walter M. Drew wrote:
<<I am in need of a cover for my circuit board on an Onan 6 KW.
get yours?>>
Where did you
Mine came from Westline Industries, 1925 Lafayette St., Alameda, CA 94501
(510) 865 1210. They are the local Onan repair station, and had to order the
cover from the factory. Any Onan dealer should be able to get one for you.
If you can't find one, call John at Westline Industries.
help.
He should be able to
Be sure to use the part number and description: 301-3597, COVER.
it's for an Onan 6.0 KW Model NH "Power Drawer".
And, mention
That's what I had to do.
Glenn
78K OR (no sunshine here) :-(
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 10:12:13 EST
From: LNelson208@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carb
In a message dated 12/25/98 11:23:10 PM Central Standard Time, Gplymate@aol.com
writes:
<< I have an Onan that is about where yours was before it started purring. I
suspect a fuel problem and think a carb rebuild is in order. Where is Walbro?
And, how long does it take? >>
Glenn.......Walbro is who (probably) made your Onan carb if it is an LMB model.
Send it to Louie at Walbro, 6214 Garfield, Cass City, MI 48726, (517) 872 2131,
got mine back in a week. My Onan ran very rich and would load up big time. It
would run with the main fuel adjustment turned completely "in". Otherwise, the
carb looked great. Cost is $35 plus shipping. Call Louie. BTW, There is a
salvager in Carthage (near here), MO (Colaw) and the guy thinks he has some of
these carbs. They are moving a block or two, and after the first of the year I
am heading down there. Larry Nelson, PB 75, Springfield, MO
------------------------------Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 20:13:54 EST
From: CHill113@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carb
Glenn
First thing to do regarding the oil leak is to take off the "S" shaped
crankcase vent hose that is near the carb and check it. I had oil coming out
all over and paid for several unsuccessful attempt by Onan people to solve the
problem. Turned out this hose had collapsed INTERNALLY and was causing backpressure to build up in the crankcase. A new hose, and no oil leaks. May not
13
be your problem, but check it out and hope it is because that is a quick cheap
fix.
Justin
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 01:52:18 EST
From: simmee@juno.com (duane m simmons)
Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #171
Richard Guthart/Frank SW Indiana
I did post a reply pertaining to the smart chargers being fooled by the Onan
Voltage Regulator (VR) output. Most Onan VR don't work anyway, not required &
become a problem by loading down the Flywheel Alternator to the point that it
will not achieve it's primary function....feedback signal to identify that the
Onan is running. Best to remove the wires from the VR & tape them up (maintain
the common connected wires as common). All Onans are not wired identical,
however, most have 3 wires attached to the VR. One is by itself & 2 are common
on 1 VR terminal. After removing the wires, tape up the single wire by itself
& keep the two wires together & tape them up if so configured. The only time
the Onan VR is required is for some of the early coaches that had a small
dedicated battery for the Onan start battery. The only was to charge that
dedicated battery was via the Onan VR. At best the VR output is 2 amperes
maximum. Cannot be the 10 amperes as advertized (charges thru a 5 ampere
fuse).
Most early coaches have been upgraded to a common house & Onan battery in the
rear. Two 6 volt Golf Cart batteries makes one 12v battery pack via wire
connection (series connection...the + & - leads are connected together).
Hope this helps !!!
Happy GMCing
Duane Simmons
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:51:19 EST
From: Gplymate@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Onan Carburetor
Larry,
Many thanks for the info on Walbro. It's looking more and more like I'll have
to be sending them my carb. My Onan will run just fine after I load up the
carb with fuel by energizing the fuel pump and then hit the starter switch. It
runs for 2 or 3 minutes, then quits cold. The troubleshooting guide says it
could be a bad fuel pump or a dirty carburetor. The fuel pump has been
exonerated so the next thing to try is cleaning out the carbureator. If that
doesn't cure the problem, then it's off to Walbo for a rebuild.
Thanks, again, for the quick comeback.
Glenn
78K OR
-----------------------------------Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:51:13 EST
From: Gplymate@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Onan Oil Leak
14
Justin,
Many thanks for the tip on a potential trouble area to check for the cause of
my Onan oil leak. Now that you mention it, I noticed the crankcase vent hose
does look quite sad. It is visibly collapsed on the outside, and could very
well be blocked on the inside, too. I think I'll take some initiative and go
ahead and replace it. That, and the oil filter, too (the one that's on there
now is not an Onan filter). I'll be hoping for a dry engine when I get my Onan
running again.
Your past tips have had a very high batting average. I'm betting this one will
do the trick, too. Thanks, again, for sharing your experience.
Glenn
78K OR
----------------------Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:19:37 EST
From: HLBF@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carburetor
Another possibility........a few months ago mine exhibited the same symptoms. I
spent several hours troubleshooting before noticing that the air intake hose
from the air cleaner to the carb was totally collapsing upon start-up...the air
cleaner was clogged.
Lanier
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 20:36:36 EST
From: CHill113@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Oil Leak
Re: the Onan oil filter. Someone on the web gave me the address of a company
that sells a permanent air filter. I ordered one and it looks good. It is
metal, and can be cleaned and re-oiled. As an aside however it caused me quite
a hassel. About a month after I received it, I got a call from the Visa fraud
unit inquiring if we had been in Colorado and Kansas. Yes we had. Have you
used your card today in Florida. Nope. Well someone at a "truck stop" has just
used your number to charge about $30. They said to cut up my cards and they
would send new ones. We did and they sent new ones. A few weeks later my
wife just happend to notice that the oil filter company which is located here
in Okla, has an office in Haven, Fl or some such name. So it was a legitimate
charge, but we didn't recognize. So alls well that ends well.
Justin
Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 09:37:22 -0800
From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz@bytedesigns.com>
Subject: GMC: GenSet replacemnet
In the Dec GMC MH News (Cinnebar), a mention is made of a direct replacement
kit using the Generac NP66G.
15
Has anyone on this list done it? Anyone have any comments re Generac in
general. My only experience has been the 2400 watt vertical that runs at
3600 and was an embarrasment to start, due to the noise.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Heinz
'76 Transmode (less working GenSet)
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 12:00:44 -0800 (PST)
From: herm beeck <hbeeck@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacemnet
Heinz
I am still waiting for my Muffler. I selected the Honda EV6010 because of the
water cooled engine and the higher RPM / more inertia, more stable to
transients. This should be important to you since you are very Frequency
conscious for your electronics. Has got to be more quiet than the 1800 rpm air
cooled Onan. You do not have to mount the Honda on a slide-out since all
service points are on the same side.
herm
- ---Roger Black <rblack@tecinfo.com> wrote:
>
> Heinz,
> I have a Generac 5000 for my house since we have such persistant electrical
> outages. It is so loud, I'm looking for another exhaust system to quieten
> it down. Wife won't let me run it but periodically cause the noise bothers
> her and the rest of the town. Fortunately, I don't hear it at all. Guess
> the noise runs in the family of that brand.
 Roger
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:55:06 EST
From: RickStapls@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacement
In a message dated 1/3/99 3:00:05 PM EST, hbeeck@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
I selected the Honda EV6010
because of the water cooled engine and.......
Herm,
I've been wondering about those water-cooled Hondas... Does it have a real
water pump and thermostat, or just some sort of passive water jacket? (My
fantasy is to connect the genset cooling system to an auxiliary heater in the
coach, but only possible with a pump-circulated cooling system.)
Also, be sure to keep us posted on how quiet it is when you get it
installed, how it fits, etc. Good luck with it!
Rick Staples
'75 Eleganza
Louisville, CO
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 08:48:55 -0500 (EST)
From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner@borg.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacemnet
16
The December issue of the GMC motorhome news has an article on the replacement
cinnabar has selected for replacement. They claim they looked at all of the new
generators and selected this one because it fits perfectly in the space, puts
out 6.6KW, does not shake or vibrate and all service points are located up
front so it does not have to be slid oout of the cavity. It is the Genarac
NP66G. From the pictures provided it has a large muffler mounted underneath
the coach and should be very quiet. Good thing about it is that oil filters etc
are available at walmart. price at cinnabar is $2849. At this site they are
$2595 http://www.advrv.com/generators.htm
The compact, highly advance NP-50G and NP-66G gensets feature Generac's
exclusive GN-360 and GN-480 OHV engines, which provide about 25% less fuel
consumption that competitive units. And 25% less oil consumption. Combine
Generac's OHV engine technology with the field-proven, belt-drive power train
and the result is superior air conditioner motor starting, and up to 20% weight
reduction compared to competitive Mobile generators. Customers like best the up
front serviceability. Routine maintenance items such as plugs, air and oil
filters are conveniently positioned for easy access. Additional advantages
include greatly reduced vibration and 30% engine sound reduction over
competitive units. Fits in compartment - minimum size -17.5"Hx26"Wx19"D.
NP-50G - $2095.00 NP-66G - $2595.00
I like this one better and it fits in the same space as the NP66G, and for the
same price.
Generac's new premium HIGHLINE Q-Series gensets achieve the highest levels of
engineering refinement and quiet quality. Q-Series gensets combine advance
technologies with distinctively powerful OHV engines. These higher horsepower
engines deliver more kilowatts of electricity at significantly lower rpm's.
Thus sounds level and vibration are reduced far below competitive standards.
The Q-55G and Q-70G are specially designed for top-of-the-line coaches. With
plenty of power to spare, these gensets fit conveniently into the same compact
space as the NP-50G and NP-66G. Higher wattage output and even lower sound
levels are achieved without the inconvenience of specialized installation
requirements.
Lower rpm's, special laminated housing, anti-vibration mounting system, quieter
engines: all these innovations contribute to noise-free comfort. Research shows
that when a coach is parked, the generator produces sound waves that
reverberate back from the ground below. In response to this finding, a special
sound deadening material is designed beneath the generator to reduce sound wave
penetration. Maybe a small measure, but it illustrates the dedication of
Generac engineers to deliver the very best in HIGHLINE quality and comfort.
Q-Series generators set the highest standards ever achieved for quiet, reliable
performance. For top-of-the-line coaches with special power requirements, only
Generac HIGHLINE Q-Series gensets offer comfort and quality that you will
appreciate, but never hear. Fits in compartment -minimum size 17.5"Hx26"Wx19"D.
Q-55G - $2095.00 Q-70G - $2795.00
Hope this helps
17
At 06:38 PM 1/3/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks guys,
>The Honda is still top of the list but still checking out all options.
>
>Email from Cinnebar had a comment that the Generac was 'quieter' than the
>Honda, but not sure which Honda was referenced.
>
>Herm: have you started installing or waiting until you have it all?
>Heinz
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 01:51:06 EST
From: Adohen@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Generator
Hi GMCers!
I got a sales brochure in the mail today which had some gen-sets for sale.
Check it out
http://www.tractorsupplyco.com/cirp8.htm
There so cheap you
could throw them away every four years and get a new one. Anyone ever use one
of these? Would they work with modifications?
Scott Adohen@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:26:15 EST
From: RickStapls@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Generator
Scott,
A cursory read of that website makes me think these are lightweight
"emergency" generators. Generally considered very LOUD, and not too durable.
A real "RV" generator (Onan, some Hondas, etc) costs more because it's built
for continuous duty and lower decibels. There has been much discussion of this
topic in < rec.outdoors.rv-travel >, suggest checking the archives of Dejanews.
I suspect one of these bargain gensets would make you pretty unpopular at the
campground, not to mention with your wife! Just my .02.
Rick Staples
'75 Eleganza
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:26:51 -0800
From: Dan Winchester <d.l.winchester@ieee.org>
Subject: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem
Here is a real puzzle for you engineer types.
haven't been able to solve it.
I am also an engineer and
When the start button is pushed some of the time the starter will not
disengage, even pushing the stop button will not stop the starter. The
only solution is to pull the wire from the starter solenoid on the starter
motor. This is rather inconvenient if you start it remotely from inside.
When pulling the wire from the start solenoid there is a small spark indicating
that power is getting there from somewhere, but the relay K1 is d-energized.
If I pull the choke wire from the output of K1 that also stops the starter.
There is however no power to the choke so it cant be the source of power
keeping the starter solenoid engaged.
After pulling the wire, plugging it back in does not re-engage the starter.
18
Got any good solutions.
Please replay direct as well as a copy to the list so I can see your answers
asap and not wait for the journal copy to be generated.
Dan Winchester
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:47:30 -0800
From: Gary Miller <grizzly@harborside.com>
Subject: GMC: Onan
DanMine did exactly the same thing. Real exciting when it happened first time and
I had just gotten out of the shower!!!
I had the unit serviced and they said that they found the solenoid gear/shaft
was loaded with dry, hard grease. Once that was removed and cleaned up it
works just fine now. Probably was the original lubricant that had gotten hard
and dirty with age. Suggest you pull the starter and solenoid and take a look.
Gary
'77 Kingsley
North Bend, Oregon Coast
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:49:34 EST
From: Micalnnk@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Onan starter not disengaging
I had the same problem with my Onan. After checking everything out and
(needlessly) replacing the control panel, I gave up and when I was at Sirum's
in Orlando, Fl., asked Jeff Sirum about it. He said it was often caused by
some voltage backfeed to the relay (I believe relay 3 if I recall correctly)
that allows the starter to disengage once the engine is running. He said that
is easy to fix, and installed a small diode in the relevant wire and, presto,
no more problem. Unfortunately there was a lot going on and I don't remember
exactly how to identify the wire. I would suggest that you call Sirum and ask
for Alex or Jeff (father and son). They are very helpful; (941) 763-1121 is
their number.
mick putney, Kingsley 78
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:22:35 -0500
From: searlecj@sensible-net.com (Clark Searle)
Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem
Dan Winchester wrote:
> When the start button is pushed some of the time the starter will not
disengage, even pushing the stop button will not stop the starter. The only
solution is to pull the wire from the starter solenoid on the starter motor.
This is rather inconvenient if you start it remotely from inside.
Don't have any first hand knowledge about the Onan starter electrical circuit,
but typically starters have a solenoid that uses a low current electro magnet
to draw the high current contacts (connected to battery cable) into engagement.
Sometimes the high current contacts will temporarily weld and stick together.
But that may not be the explanation in your case, since you mentioned that the
starter stops when the wire is disconnected. I'm assuming you are referring to
19
the small wire (switch circuit) and not the battery cable. If that's the case,
I'm uncertain how or why it still has any power when the start switch is off.
Power to the low current side should only come via one of the start switches.
Could be a switch problem. Does the starter do this when using either the
remote or outside start switch?
Clark
78 Kingsley
Mt. Pleasant, Mich
> > I was quoted $205 as the price for the entire starter, rebuilt, for the
Onan 6k generator that came on my '78. Does this price sound ball-park or
out of
Check the yellow pages under Automobile Electric Service for a rebuilder, then
call to check his understanding of the Onan - I was told by more than one
Onan/GMC guru they couldn't be rebuilt because of some kind of bass-ackward
winding, but my local rebuilder didn't read that chapter and went ahead and
rebuilt 2 for me so far, and they look like new and crank stronger 'n mule
vinegar. Cost: about $40 each IIRC. Also, had the same outfit rebuild 2 Onan
carbs with kits I ordered from V. E. Petersen for $7 each, charged less than
$25 each.
Onan quoted me $285 for that gold-plated choke - they can't be repaired either
- - took that sucker apart, cleaned with WD40, made new gasket, rebent that
little thingamajig - works like a charm.
BTW, when I took mine apart to replace the Onan, I found the only things
separating the genset from my sheets & pillowcase to be a piece of 5/8"
plywood, 1" of light foam, and a thin sheet of asbestos-looking cloth - no
wonder my co-pilot complained of fumes and noise (she says 40 years of pipesmoking has rendered my smeller useless). Anyhow, it is now surrounded by
3-ply "The Insulator" (so good, I've decided to take on their product line for
RV's, boats, airplanes, etc), and for overkill and extra support I sandwiched
it and a layer of 1/8" thick sheet of lead between the plywood and a sheet of
22 gauge sheetmetal.
Lanier
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:26:39 EST
From: EMERYSTORA@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke
In a message dated 1/18/99 9:38:08 PM, brush@cruzio.com writes:
<< You may not need to replace the choke, if the ground is bad.
checking out.
It's worth
B Rush
73 Canyonlands >>
I agree. I found that if I ran a ground wire from the choke metal enclosure to
a screw on the Onan shroud my choke would work fine. I soldered it to the
metal part of the Choke and put the other end of the wire under the screw using
a ring connector. Crimping connectors to wire invites future trouble unless
you also solder them. I did this about 5 years ago and have not had any choke
problems since.
20
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:10:27 EST
From: EMERYSTORA@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke
In a message dated 1/19/99 12:55:50 PM, CHill113@aol.com writes:
<< Thanks, I'll double check it. My mechanic insists the coil is bad.
has been wrong before. >>
But he
Justin -- take off the choke and clean it well. Check the coil for continuity
by using either an ohmmeter (VOM) or a test light with a battery and put one
end to the end of the wire going to the choke and the other end to the metal
case (ground). If your meter shows resistance, the coil is probably good and
the Choke may be binding on the housing or the wire connections corroded. If
there is too much resistance in the circuit as may be caused by a corroded
connection, the choke will not get enough current to actuate. If there is no
resistance (open circuit) check where the wire from the coil connects to the
feed wire to be sure it is not broken at some point.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:36:18 -0500
From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady@bnin.net>
Subject: GMC: starter for Onan 6k, $205? (looks like a Mazda starter)
I don't want to spread a rumor, but... When I needed a new solenoid for my
6K Onan, I found that a Nippendenso solenoid for a Mazda starter fit. (That
was 5 years ago, so the memory is a little cloudy.)
I'm at work, so I don't have the part number, but I think this is a 'known'
substitution.
That isn't saying the *starter* from a Mazda will fit, but.. if you are
going the rebuild route, you might consider replacing the solenoid at the
same time.
A rebuild by a good auto electric shop (as suggested) is a good way to go if
you don't want to make a contribution to the Onan profit sharing program.
Does this trigger any thoughts by anyone else? Isn't there a parts
interchange for this starter to a common application?
You could also consider trying your local John Deere lawn and garden store.
They used a lot of Onan engines. Sometimes genuine JD parts are half the
Onan price.
Mark
mgrady@bnin.net
'77 K
Snowing, 22°
21
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:07:25 EST
From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>
Subject: GMC: Onan Start Problem
Dan
I have seen the same starter hang-up problem several times but have not
instrumented for failure analysis like you have. I have always found that the
starter solenoid is hanging up & maintaining power to the solenoid's small lead
& K-3 relay. Removal of the small lead has shut down the starter motor. Never
tried the lead to the Choke. Since the choke does not have power applied,
maybe the choke is acting like a sink/ground which is holding the starter
solenoid closed/active. May have multiple faults that are causing the noted
symptoms.
A clean up or replacement of the starter solenoid has fixed the
problem for me. I am very interested in your final analysis & problem
solution.
Happy GMCing
Duane
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:16:05 -0500
From: davegreenberg1@juno.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke
. But I do have need of an Onan choke
>for the Onan 6000. I've been reading where several may have changed out their
>Onan for something else. Does anyone have a used choke for sale? This country
>boy isn't about to pay the Price Onan wants for one.
>Justin 77PB
>
Mine burned out about 3 years ago (actually caught fire) and the old Onan with
over 7,000 hours on it has never started and run better!
David Lee Greenberg F22009
GMC Motorhome Registry
200 MacFarlane Drive PH4
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:20:49 -0500
From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke
Justin,
Yes, I think I have a choke for the power drawer.
look. 1-977-275-4462.
Jim Bounds
Call me tomo0rrow and I'll
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:48:16 EST
From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #203
Greg
$205 is the cost of a new Starter,not rebuilt, at my local Onan supply. Local
shops can also rebuilt your starter at about $150. Best buy is a new starter
which has a new clutch assembly which is not included w/rebuilt unit. Onan P/N
22
191-1949-03 will fit 6 & 4 KW units. Be sure to check the mounting surface for
possible interference. A slight file or grind may be required for proper fit.
The Original starter P/N has been obsoleted & may not have a replacement noted
so don't lose this number. Also, Ragusa Products have a heavy duty cast steel,
stronger than OEM, starter bracket if one is needed. About 1/3 cost at Onan.
Happy GMCing
Duane.
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 05:46:50 EST
From: HLBF@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan (noise and fume insulation)
In a message dated 1/20/99 1:55:22 AM EST, GONEMAD5@aol.com writes:
> Did you have to take the Onan out to replace the old insulation with "The
> Insulator"? or can you get to most of it thru the right rear davo?
Obviously, its easier to replace/add insulation with the genset out, but it
can be done from the inside alone. Question is, do you have the fibreglass
shell over the genset or is it simple cabinetry? My '73 has no shell and all I
had to do was remove that side of the bed and the single sheet of plywood it
rested upon - makes it much easier to measure and fit into place, and you'll
want to tape all the seams with their super-duper 2-3" wide alum tape.
Replacing the genset without a hoist is kinda tricky, to say the least, but
mine was so old, cantankerous and greasy, and I had this new one taking up
space in the driveway, so I just had to do it. Also, it would take a
contortionist to get behind the genset to properly place, glue, and tape the
insulation on the back (interior) wall, so you might as well do it right the
first time and take the opportunity to clean the cables, cabinet, etc..
Example - when I installed the macerator, I wired it direct to the genset
battery terminals - on this project, my engineer rewired it to the posts on
the bottom rear of the genset cabinet and placed the fuse back there. Just try
getting both hands in the back of that cabinet to change a fuse - I invested
in 3 more feet of wire and moved that dude to the outside.
I didn't mean to write a treatise. When you get ready to do it, holler at me
and I'll tell you more.
Lanier
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:47:27 EST
From: Gcbr@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Heavy aluminum shields around generator and propane tanks
Manny
I have no idea if you did the right thing or not. I will give you the theory.
If you insulate the boxes with much of anything you are going to trap moisture
next to the metal. Aluminum should be able to withstand the moisture better
than most metals. Not what I know but what I have been told.
Take Care
Arch 76 GB IL
In a message dated 1/20/99 10:07:23 PM Central Standard Time, MTrovao@aol.com
writes:
>
23
> I have a 73 and all it had was plywood behind this foam with black paper
> that was deteriorating.
> I had both compartments covered with galvanized sheet metal.
> Should I have used aluminum instead?
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:27:08 -0700
From: Darren Paget <paget@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: GMC: Heavy aluminum shields around generator and propane tanks
These aluminum boxes are interesting. I was trying to come up with an idea on
how to protect the fiberglass compartments on the inside of the coach and to
also give myself a way to have a solid attachment point for the rear benches
and other stuff. Lo and behold I came up with aluminum boxes made of 1/8 th
inch material, contoured to fit exactly over the fiberglass boxes. I thought it
was an original idea. I am also using this method to cover over the wheel
wells. By the way, this also includes end caps to almost totally enclose the
fiberglass. All four boxes weigh about 110 lbs. Still working on it. Probably
seven months to go.
Darren
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:40:55 EST
From: Adohen@aol.com
Subject: GMC: Front Support Towers and Aluminum Rear Propane and Gen Box
Hi Henry!
Good to have you back on line. I have a 1975 26' Palm Beach that has the alu.
boxes. They seem to be pretty substantial. The only problem I have
encountered with them is the pop rivet heads. I have replaced about five in
each compartment. They are extremely large. I used 3/16 poprivets that are
used to replace window assemblies in car doors. I had to use a hydraulic pop
rivet tool.
The front support towers on my GMC are tubular and can be viewed on my practice
website <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/gmcgrlk/index.htm">Home Page
</A>, open your browser to large, put sound on, go to site, go get a cup of
coffee, it should have totally loaded by then. There are also some pictures
that show some of the alu. boxes.
Scott Adohen@aol.com
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:32:57 EST
From: HamRealtor@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem
In a message dated 1/15/99 11:27:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
d.l.winchester@ieee.org writes:
<<
d.l.winchester@ieee.org >>
The terminal on the solenoid where the start wire is connected has two wires
going into the solenoid. One of the wires goes thru a coil and then grounds to
the solenoid.
The other wire goes thru a coil and then connects to the bolt where power is
supplied to the starter motor by closing of the circuit inside the solenoid.
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This coil is of larger wire and will draw more current. When power is applied
the larger coil and the smaller one together close the circuit inside the
solenoid. When the contacts are connected the point where the larger wire is
connected now has power so no current flows because it has power on both
ends. Before the contacts close it grounds thru the starter brushes. It has
two coils to have the extra pull to get the drive engaged and the solenoid
contacts closed. If the spring is weak that opens the ciucuit or the shaft is
dirty the large coil can get voltage from inside and a ground from something
that's connected to the wire that connects to the start terminal and hold the
circuit closed.
Make sense?
Does anyone have any old (working or not) starters for the Onan or the GMC
that they would like to part with or have repaired or rebuilt? Alternators?
The alternators can be increased to 100 amps.
Comments?
David
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 23:46:46 EST
From: RickStapls@aol.com
Subject: Re: GMC: Power Switch / TS30 relay
In a message dated 2/14/99 6:38:38 PM MST, digitek@concentric.net writes:
> power at home has been going out a lot lately. I utilized the generator of
> the coach to run the house a few times this Winter, but was limited to 2 20
AMP circuits. I thought that if I had all 50 AMPS available to my house, I
> would be better off.
Richard,
Whatever you do, if you are supplying power into the house wiring from your
GMC's generator, PLEASE be sure to install and use a proper transfer switch in
your house. These switches make it physically impossible to connect the
generator and utility company sources together, which could kill someone
working on the lines, or overload/short out your generator. (That's why
they're required by law, but I don't need laws to tell me when something is a
real good idea!) Shutting off the house entrance switch is not enough, as
someone could easily turn it back on by mistake, all too possible in an
emergency situation.
If you have frequent outages, or are real concerned over the Y2K thing, the
transfer switch is worth the $$. OTOH, I'm just going to wire up my furnace
with a cord and plug, so I can disconnect from the house wiring and plug into
a (heavy) extension cord from the GMC. Either way, total separation is
maintained.
My .02, HTH.
Rick Staples
'75 Eleganza
Louisville, CO
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:19:27 EST
From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>
Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #258
25
Lanier
Onan Board Repair Address is as follows:
Duane Simmons
4320 Fernwood Ave
Orange, CA 92869
Phone number is 714-633-4731. Also advise packing it in a small
cardboard box & ship via Postal service w/o insurance (slows down receipt
if insured).....never lost one yet.
Happy GMCing
Duane
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