Westerners Living in Hanoi , Vietnam: ‘Privileged Migrant Minority’ or ‘Adapted but Excluded Foreigners’? Séverine Minot Sociology, Ph.D. Candidate York University (Canada) Research Fellow, Center for Asia-Pacific Studies Vietnam National University, Hanoi seve88@yorku.ca Abstract: Processes of migrant adaptation, experiences of inclusion/exclusion and the possibilities of ‘integration’ in host countries are modulated by the convergence of personal/group characteristics (forms of capital and variables of social positions), the structural context of power relations, and the relative configuration of privileges/disadvantages. To understand how Westerners adapt to life and work in Hanoi, and to examine whether integration is possible for them, requires considerations on general and specific features of their receiving contexts. Here, I show that privileges/disadvantages are contextually configured and that experiences of inclusion/exclusion may be determined in part, by specific structures of power relations. In presenting an outline of the Vietnamese and Hanoian ethnoscape, financescape, mediascape, ideoscape and technoscape (Appadurai, 1990 and 1996) and in providing additional insight into what might correspond to the Vietnamese politico-legal field (Bourdieu, 1987 and 2005), I emphasize a relativistic reading of privilege/disadvantage, particularly in relation to inclusion/exclusion. Drawing on six months of field observations in Vietnam and Hanoi, and on an extensive surveying of textual content on local and national realities, I apprehend Vietnam and Hanoi as receiving contexts for Western expats, and argue that complex conditions in various spheres of life and work have significant bearing on what constitutes a privilege/disadvantage. Despite the fact that Western expats living and working in Vietnam (and Hanoi) represent an elite migrant minority, their personal and collective adaptation to Vietnam and Hanoi, does not eliminate the conditions that contribute to exclusion and that prevent integration. Keywords: Western Expats, Vietnam, Privilege, Adaptation, Exclusion Moving to a strange land always entails challenges related to adaptation and integration. Indeed, these challenges will differ widely based on the relative privilege of migrants. Many forms of cultural capital such as education, employability, linguistic competencies, status, citizenship, etc. will intersect with economic and symbolic forms of capital, thus influencing possibilities/constraints for the deployment of social capital. (Bourdieu, 2002) Of course, other variables of social position, such as gender, class, race and ethnicity, will also contribute to the configuration of privileges and 1 disadvantages, which in turn (re)produce patterns of power relations and orient strategies of adaptation. Basically, the characteristics of migrants, modes of adaptation and experiences of inclusion/exclusions are necessarily dependent on the contextual intersubjective dynamics that are played out in various social, political and economic spheres of activity. This means that processes of adaptation, experiences of inclusion/exclusion and the possibilities (and forms) of ‘integration’ in host countries are modulated by the convergence of personal/group characteristics (forms of capital –and their relative deployment– and variables of social positions), the structural context of power relations, and the relative configuration of privileges/disadvantages (perceived and performed –or exercised). The information presented here was generated over a period of six months, through field observations and an extensive textual review of contents from statistical reports, policy papers/statements, newspaper articles, governmental, scientific, corporate and public websites, narratives, Internet blogs, discussion forums, magazine articles, etc. Using the conceptual framework of Appadurai, I outline the Vietnamese and Hanoian ethnoscape, financescape, mediascape, ideoscape and technoscape1 (Appadurai, 1990 and 1996), in addition to providing some insights into what might correspond to the Vietnamese politico-legal field.2 (Bourdieu, 1987 and 2005) Drawing from Deleuze and Guattari’s concept of deterritorialization, Arjun Appadurai (1990 and 1996) proposes a different conceptual scheme, whereby relations and structures can be mapped out and understood in the context of particular cosmoses that may correspond to particular ethnoscapes, finanscapes, mediascapes, ideoscapes and technoscapes. 2 Bourdieu’s field theory provides a frame of analysis, which corresponds to specific fields of social relations. In Social Structure of the Economy (2005) he describes fields as real and/or figurative social spaces that are normally structured through the power plays of agents (or actors, actants and collectives). This theory can potentially be applied to any social environment where an implicit and explicit order establishes parameters of interaction and normative expectations about the roles of agents. In applying his theory to socio-economic examples, he explains how agents (buyers, suppliers, customers, clients, businesses, corporations, etc.) are positioned within as well as between particular market fields based on the forms and volume of capital they have access to (i.e.: financial, cultural, technological, juridical, organizational, commercial, social and symbolic) and on the ‘location’ of their interests. (Bourdieu, 2005: 194) 1 2 The Problem In Hanoi specifically, there is a saying that stipulates that “Once a foreigner, always a foreigner!” In the pages that follow, I explain why this is relatively true. My primary argument is that migrants may effectively ‘adapt’ to a foreign receiving society, though they may not be able to integrate it and may continue to be excluded in various ways due to salient conditions imposed by the receiving context itself. To be clear, the very dialectic of inclusion/exclusion may need to be revised because of its underlying conflation with privilege/disadvantage. Indeed, much of the scholarship assumes that disadvantaged migrant are excluded and that privileged migrants achieve ‘integration’ more rapidly/easily. Notably, part of the misconceptions fostered in the scholarship is that privileges and disadvantages are ‘consistently’ determined by the general position of social actors within society, rather than ‘contextually’ determined by relational power structures. 3 As I will show, privileges that ostensibly facilitate adaptation, may also work to exclude, and inhibit possibilities of integration. Receiving societies are influenced by their own complex histories and the interplays of postcolonial struggles, armed conflicts, politico-economic transformations, governance, market (in)stability, and the shifting forms of citizenship and nationalism. (Bayly, 2004; Vertovec, 2004; Schwenkel, 2006) In Vietnam, these antecedents create complex realities and tensions between particular segments of Westerners and Vietnamese nationals.4 Here, I propose to examine the ethnoscape, financescape, mediascape, ideoscape and technoscape of Vietnam, with a focus on Hanoi, and provide insight into the structures of the Vietnamese politico-legal field. These, I suggest, are interconnected terrains By extension, the (historical) ‘location’ and the context of social, political and economic interactions may determine the ‘circumstantial positionality’ of social actors, and therefore the ‘playing out’ of relative forms of privilege/disadvantage –because privileges/disadvantages are always socially and ‘comparably’ produced. This, points to a larger problematic: that of defining in what ways are privileges and disadvantages related to adaptation, to integration, and to the negotiation of inclusion/exclusion. The adjacent question I pose is whether the concept of ‘minority’, as a power dynamic and/or as a demographic situation, can be used to theorize the experience of Westerners in Vietnam. 4 … based on race, ethnicity, nationality, origin, status, language, education, occupation, social and cultural capital, not to mention class and gender. And I concur that these variables will influence the structure of power relations and orient patterns of cooperation/cohabitation between Western expats and Vietnamese nationals in various spheres of social life. 3 3 that inevitably modulate processes of adaptation and experiences of inclusion/exclusion for Western expats residing in and around Hanoi. I demonstrate that the configuration of privileges/ disadvantages is circumscribed by specific conditions and ‘located’ structures of relations. The Ethnoscape Foreign presence has indeed left its mark on Vietnam, notably due to over one thousand years of Chinese domination and more recently, close to one hundred years of French colonialism, followed by the first Indochina (anti-French) war (1946-1954) and the second Indochina (Vietnam-American) war (1969-1975). Vietnam has a long history of resistance against ‘invaders’ and the nation is proud of its sovereignty.5 Yet, Vietnam itself has long been ‘divided’, between the historically procommunist forces of the North and the pro-liberal South. Between 1975 and 1992, Vietnam, which was reunified under a rigid communist dictatorship, was completely closed off to the West, safe for Soviet, East German and Polish communist allies. During this time, a significant number of Vietnamese fled their country as political refugees; this would later be coined the boat people crisis. Well over a million Vietnamese fled the country illegally; and though many of them perished on the way, many others found asylum in Canada, the U.S., Australia, West Germany, the U.K. and France mainly. It is only since 1992, that the government ratified a constitution allowing Vietnamese to ‘associate’ with foreigner and pardoning those who left illegally under the dictatorship and allowing them to return without reprisal. The Vietnamese ethnoscape can be characterized, first, by examining the racial and ethnic composition of the country, notably how Westerners fit-in the ‘national picture’. Vietnam’s demographic composition is quite homogeneous from the point of view of racial differences, though “Being Vietnamese is being capable of resisting above all any assimilation and foreign ideology and being proud of having in his veins the blood of the Dragon.” Translation of part of a Vietnamese poem by Dang Anh Tuan (http://perso.limsi.fr/dang/webvn/anglais.htm) 5 4 many Vietnamese and Southeast Asian ethnicities and cultural minorities coexist along side the dominant Kinh group. According to CIA Factbook data, the Kinh or Viet represent 86.2% of the total population, which stands at 86,116,560 (July 2008 est.). Ethnic minorities include the Tay (1.9% of total population), the Thai (1.7%), the Muong (1.5%), the Khome (1.4%), the Hoa (1.1%), the Nun (1.1%), the Hmong (1%), and others groups in smaller proportions (4.1%). The 1999 census (See General Statistics Office of Vietnam) indicated that there were only forty thousand foreigners living in Vietnam at the time, though there is reason to believe that this figure has significantly increased since then. Unfortunately, the General Statistics Office of Vietnam does not compile data on long-term foreign sojourners. Data gathering for the subsequent phases of this project will thus include surveying Western national embassies and consulates to examine and cumulate the number of registered Western expats residing in Vietnam for a minimum of one year. Ultimately Vietnamese citizens are, to an overwhelming proportion, of ethnic South- and EastAsian decent and perceptions of foreigners today, especially of Westerners, are guided by the huge influx of tourists. In 2007, more than 4.2 million foreign tourists visited the country, most of them making stops in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city. (General Statistics Office of Vietnam) While there are no real statistics of the proportion of Westerners, the General Statistics Office of Vietnam conducted a random sample survey of tourists leaving the country in 2005: of 8195 tourists surveyed, 52.6% were Westerners.6 From this same survey, it was uncovered that on average (per trip), Westerners spend twice as much money compared to other foreign Asian tourists.7 This of course sets the tone 6 This includes people from Europe: Hungary, Poland, Russia, Austria, Belgium, England, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland; from America: the U.S., Canada and Greenland; and from Oceania: Australia. 7 On average for their total trip costs, foreign Asian tourists disbursed 234$ USD, compared to 515$ USD for Europeans, 504.8 $ USD for North Americans and 466.7$ USD for Australians and New Zealanders. (See Graph “Average expenditure (out of tour) per foreign visitor in Vietnam by item of expenditure and by nation” at General Statistic Office of Vietnam) N.B. This data, does not take into account length of stay, which could differ between tourist cohorts and which could also influence the level of expense per trip. 5 for high economic interests in targeting Westerners, especially white people either for crime (making them a target for scams, pick-pocketing, robberies, etc.) or forms of harassments (Westerners are often surrounded by pushy merchants or ‘begrudged’ –sometimes insulted– if they don’t spend money). Westerners are generally perceived as ‘good’ but ‘naïve’ spenders, which they are quite often! Conversely, Westerners quickly fatigue, and often show discontent because, of the aggravation of always being careful not to get ‘ripped off’, thus not knowing whom to trust in so many life circumstances. In fact, it may be that being a ‘visible’ minority, legitimately perceived as a transient elite, causes difficulties of adjustments with regards to establishing relations with Vietnamese, relations that go beyond these limited perceptions, attitudes and dynamics. This may well indicate that the position of Westerners in the Vietnamese ethnoscape relativizes the experience of ‘financial privilege’ in that it may incur negative social experiences and be a hurdle to the development of genuine friendship with Vietnamese nationals. However, Vietnamese nationals may well be justified to consider Westerners’ sojourns as temporary, especially in that currently at least, policies limits foreign work/residence visas to one year, notwithstanding the newly implemented three-year work permit. In Vietnam and Hanoi, Western long-term residents have no choice to renew their visas periodically, especially considering that medium-tem contract work is the main modality of employment for foreigners. The Ho Chi Minh Department of Planning and Investment makes clear that “employers who employ foreigners [should] train appropriate Vietnamese citizens to take on their roles over time. To this end work permits are for a 3 year maximum, with an option to renew for another 3 years.” (Ho Chi Minh, Department of Planning and Investment) The average length of time of Visas procured to Westerners is between one and three months. 6 Another particularity with regards to the position of Westerners in the Vietnamese ethnoscape touches upon the experience of Viet Kieus. Viet Kieus are overseas ethnic Vietnamese who have been naturalized as citizens of Western countries mainly; and many of them are returning to live and work in Vietnam. On one hand, Viet Kieus are exempt from having to obtain a visa or work permit, which provides them with a certain privilege –that of an ‘honorary membership’ which is based on a form of sui-generis Vietnamese ethno-cultural citizenship. Viet Kieus thus represent a segment of the Western expat population, though they are not viewed as ‘transient’ and though they are not assumed to be ‘big spender’. However, they may legitimately be seen as having benefited from Western education and standards of living and as having been relatively (or substantially) ‘acculturated’ –thus, assuming that Viet Kieus (especially the younger ‘born abroad’ generation), like other foreigners, have a rather limited understanding of ‘being Vietnamese in Vietnam’. On the other hand, Vietnamese nationals still harbor negative sentiments towards Viet Kieu. “ “Viet Kieu,” asserted my HCM City neighbor, his mouth turned down with distaste, “are simply no good.” He would not elaborate, but merely shook his head as if to say I’d never be able to understand. His is a sentiment one hears less often since Viet Nam’s economy started booming, but still there remains a barely palpable undercurrent of resentment here towards the millions of Vietnamese who whether by choice or circumstance have made their homes outside of the country. A new generation of Viet Kieu, however, [is] pouring into this emerging market economy and doing something to reverse that negative image.” (Buckley, 2006; NHA Magazine [Online]) In fact, for Viet Kieus, the complexity of ‘place making’ in Vietnamese society, as ‘relative equals’ and as ‘legitimately belonging’, represents a continuous process by which power relations, perceptions of self and of the other, political perspectives, as well as cultural mannerisms and philosophies must be negotiated in subtle ways. (Carruthers, 2002) Being a Western and 7 Westernized Vietnamese encompasses geo-political advantages but psychosocial challenges that emanate from constantly managing both a bi-focal cultural lense, and relative positions of marginality (with other Westerners and other Vietnamese). Moreover, the contextual positioning of Viet Kieus destabilizes the use of referent such as ‘home’ and ‘host’ country, in ways that cannot be compared to the experiences of other Western expats. It follows that the configuration of privileges/disadvantages differs not only on the basis of Westerners relative position within fields of social, political and/or economic relations, but also on the basis of inter-subjective perceptions and dynamics. For Viet Kieus, and Western expats in general, border crossing requires strategic adaptation, notably the ability to develop and foster a dual consciousness that allows contextual bior multi-cultural embodiments; even though bi- or multi-cultural-ness can bring about experiences of marginalization for not fully belonging to either groups.8 (Thomas, 1996) Considering that Hanoi, which recently absorbed neighboring provinces and districts (as of August 2008, Ha Tay province, Vinh Phuc's Me Linh district and 3 communes of Luong Son district along with Hoa Binh were amalgamated to Hanoi’s administrative jurisdiction), has a new total population of 6,232,940 and that millions of tourists ‘pass through’ each year, the huge influx of foreigners and especially (big-spending) Westerners represents the backdrop against which perceptions of (nonAsian, non-Vietnamese) Westerners are formed. Basically, white or black people who are settled in Vietnam, and in Hanoi, are always inevitably seen and treated as tourists outside of their familiar 8 Yet, albeit the availability of cross cultural training to help prepare expats for the requirements of strategic adaptation, many Westerners cannot adjust adequately to environments as different as Vietnam, to conditions so challenging. Some return home before the end of their contract, others stay, though admit to their diminished performance at work and the general inability to develop a consciousness that combines awareness of one’s own culture, positionality in the culture of ‘others’ and openness/knowledge/respect for the host country culture. (Thomas, 1996) A “further complication is a lack of understanding of the process of adaptation. […] If we don’t understand the processes involved in cross-cultural adaptation, it is very difficult to predict who will succeed and who will fail.” (Kealy, 1990: 3) This of course refers to a concern over human resource management. Yet, as long as ‘adaptation’ is related to ‘effectiveness’ rather than ‘identity’ and ‘reflexive self-development’, then the need for ‘familiarization’ and ‘responsive behavioral adjustments’ is circumscribed to the problem of ‘performance’ rather than the negotiation of inclusion/exclusion in host-country social settings. 8 social circles (which may include friendships and regular encounters with Vietnamese nationals and other foreigners –mobile or stable). This can be contrasted to the multicultural and multiethnic backdrop of cities such as Toronto, L.A. or New York, where phenotype can no longer be used to stereotype ‘at first glance’ foreigners against country nationals because such cosmopolitan receiving societies are highly heterogeneous. Phenotypical composition and divisions are crucial in an analysis of ethnoscapes, for they mark the ‘visible’ indicators of perceived differences, which are sustained by a gamut of constructs and ideas about the meanings of these visible markers. In fact, Thomas (1996) argues that Western dispositions, especially that of white middle-upper class males, correspond to sets of psychological privileges, in the forms of assumed (taken for granted) entitlements. But overseas, “[t]o the extent that they are treated, instead as outsiders, that is, as the “other” or as “deviant” in the foreign culture, [privileged expats] may […] be placed in a situation that is comparable to that of subordinate group in their own culture, yet may not have available to them the coping strategies for dealing with this new status. Their situation [however] stands in contrast to that of subordinate groups who recognize their outsider status because it has been reinforced [in politico-economic and ethno-cultural history and in dominant structures of inequalities…].” (Thomas, 1996: 216) From this point of view Westerners may well be on the margin oscillating between ‘privileged statuses’ and a ‘migrant minority position’. Thus, a crucial link between the ethnoscape and the ideoscape may reside in that phenotypical divisions also entail engrained ways of thinking about the ‘self’ and the ‘other’, whereby subject positions may influence the values and standards “against which others should be judged and to which others should aspire.” (Thomas, 1996: 218) So it is clear that the structure of the ethnoscape may also contribute to the reproduction of forms of racialization, ethnocentric attitudes (behaviors and ideologies) as well as internalized psychological privileges that impinge inclusion and promote exclusion. As a 9 parenthesis, it should be noted that whiteness is privileged in Vietnam, first as a ‘body esthetic’ and second, as a marker of status.9 Lets just say that here, ‘the concept of black is beautiful’ has not taken root! This creates complex conditions by which both black and white Westerners may experience positive versus negative forms of discrimination. Black Westerners may thus also experience racism in different ways; thus influencing the configuration of privileges/disadvantages, and experiences of inclusion/exclusion, which is why my projected research also delves into the racialized experience of black Western expats living and working in Vietnam. The Financescape: As I started to show, the ethnoscape intersects with the financescape, in that economic interests modulate relations between most Vietnamese nationals and Westerners, not only through the provision of ‘tourist services’ and an enormous range of purchasable and experiential ‘souvenirs’, but also in terms of ‘everyday’ commercial exchanges –these are more relevant to the reality of Western epxats. In the case of Westerners living in Vietnam and Hanoi especially, (the following does not consistently correspond to the situation of Western-Asians and Viet Kieus), patterns of economic relations are structured by: the benefit, in most employment situations, of a higher rate of pay, because salaries are set according to a two- or multi- tiered earning scale based on nationality (and one’s home-country average pay in the corresponding field and level of employment) or based on distinct rates for Vietnamese nationals and foreigners. the ‘necessity’ to bargain very hard to obtain fair prices for basic supplies, market goods and services. Westerners in Vietnam almost never pay the same rate as Vietnamese nationals or other Whiteness is important to many Vietnamese –as apparent by the huge quantity of skin whitening products sold in stores and markets, and by the common practice of diligently avoiding exposure to the sun –with face masks (even out of traffic), long-rimmed motorbike helmets, umbrellas, long sleeve shirts (even in 40 degree weather). 9 10 foreign Asians–unless they have very good ‘contacts’; and prices–except in big grocery store, ‘modern’ shopping malls and most restaurants– are often established arbitrarily in the context of a predominantly informal economy; the implication of having to pay the higher rate of an ‘official’ two-tiered pricing system for some services, goods and utilities. Though this system is being phased out and already abolished in national institutions like Vietnam Airlines, Vietnam Railways, Vietnam’s telecommunications services; it is still in effect for some types of housing/accommodation, some health care services, children’s education, university –which is no different from the West–, admittance to museums and tourist attractions, and electricity; and the fostering of more ‘expensive tastes’ (based on Western cultural and class-based preferences i.e.: in choices pertaining to food/restaurants, entertainment, clothing, and home furnishings) and of an elite lifestyle that entails hiring the services of Vietnamese nationals (as maids, servants, prostitutes, childcare attendants, pet-sitters, drivers, interpreters/translators, security guards, Vietnamese language tutors, etc.). These various dynamics influence the configuration of privileges and disadvantages, because in some circumstances Westerners are obviously facing ‘exclusionary’ practices –either advantageous or disadvantageous, while in other situations, their own ‘way of living’ creates a divide between themselves and the great majority Vietnamese nationals. Beyond the scale of interpersonal dynamics, the finanscape is also structured by power relations in the fields of investment, industry, commerce, development, and in the adjacent fields of labour and politics, all of which involve Western expats in various capacities. Though I cannot extend myself at length on this here, it is worth noting that there are complex and tense relations between the forces of international and Western capital and Vietnamese society, and that Westerners who live in 11 Vietnam are ‘the face’ of ‘international pressures’ for social, political and economic (not to mention infrastructural change). Massive and rapid transformations have swept the nation since the 1992 new constitutional act, but also since the 1986 Doi Moi –literally ‘renovation’– reforms. Notably a significant rise in consumerism is evident in Hanoi, though this is unfolding in the midst of a controlled, reluctant and partial loosening of economic constraints by Vietnam’s single party communist government. (Dixon and Kilgour, 2002) It is only since may 2008 that the Vietnamese government started considering allowing Westerners to buy property –which must be aligned in some way, to the national policies that prohibit large corporations to buy land. Throughout the 90s, state owned enterprises in Vietnam “have been rationalised [sic] and reformed, [though the state still maintained control] of key sectors of the economy, including forestry, mining, cement, chemicals, and heavy industry as a whole, while diversifying into new areas, such as business services;” (Dixon and Kilgour, 2002: 603) thus incurring substantial growth in the state’s share of the GDP (from 29.4% in 1990 to 43% in 1999). Yet, albeit a remarkable rate of growth and increased interest in the international community in securing foreign investments deals with Vietnam, unclear regulations and inconsistent administration and controls have, over time, actually caused instabilities in levels and sources of foreign investments and in the strength of the national currency (Vietnam Dong VND). Many economic and development policies in Vietnam do not correspond to those that define Western standards and norms, causing a disjuncture between the way Westerners (expect to) conduct business and the national framework of industrial and commercial operations, notably with regards to labor, decision-making, problem and conflict resolution10, the distribution of power in 10 With respect to Vietnamese social practices, and their disjuncture with Western modes of problem and conflict resolution, it is important to note that for the Vietnamese “[c]ommunication patterns are often subtle and repetitive. Respect is a primary value and disagreements are seldom directly expressed. Courtesy is important and smiling [even in tense and conflictual situations] is common. Laughing is not necessarily an indication of humor, but can also be a reflection of [unease in situations of] disharmony or conflict. Pointing and gesturing for people to move in certain directions are both considered rude […and it] is very important to the Vietnamese people not to be publicly corrected or chastised, to “Lose Face.” (Kaleidoscope: Vietnamese; University of North Carolina Greensboro, no date [Online]) 12 bureaucratic hierarchies, responsive policy formulation and effective and time sensitive implementation. (Dixon and Kilgour, 2002) Moreover, the spirit of the ‘free market’ –because it is not free in Vietnam– does not seem to ‘overdetermine’ the distribution of resources; rather, it seems that it might be based on the proximity and alignment of authority and political influence (thus modulating access to capital, bank loans, technical support, administrative assistance, etc.). “This reflects the continuing very uneasy relationship with the international system as a whole and the World Bank, IMF, and USA in particular –a situation that has to be seen in the context of the ingrained distrust and fear of foreign domination which resulted from the country's experiences during almost the whole of the 20th century.” (Dixon and Kilgour, 2002: 605) The authorities of Vietnam are facing increased pressures, not only to improve standards of living, income levels and labour conditions, but also to continue implementing political changes that bolster national and international market interests and those of an emerging ‘Westernized’ Vietnamese economic elite. (Dixon and Kilgour 2002: 611) The Mediascape: Of course, the emergence of a global consciousness in Vietnam (beyond tourism and foreign investments) is also attributed to the increased access to information, notably through the messages, imageries and representations featured on global television, the Internet and international news. The mediascape clearly intersects with both the ethnoscape and the financescape, by (re)producing and featuring a whole range of Vietnamese, Asian and Western subjectivities (mainly) 11 –notably some that reinforce and others that challenge ethnic stereotypes and racialization along side various 11 Vietnamese television networks VTV often broadcast Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Thai programs though all its news notably Vietnam National News programming is controlled by the state. Thus, increasingly accessible satellite television makes available countless Western channels which –though still monitored for content by the state– feature a myriad of Western programs –CNN, TV5, Hallmark channel, StarMovie –as well as programming that is adapted to the Asian Market –i.e. MTV Asia. 13 corresponding ideologies (I come back to the ideoscape a little further)– and by influencing the conduct (and profitability) of business in many industries including those of the telecommunication industry (I return to this in the section on technoscape). While virtually 100% of Westerners living in Vietnam have access to and use the Internet, only 20.6% of Vietnamese nationals were considered ‘Internet users’ in 2007; thus, compared to barely 0.3% of the population in the year 2000. (Vietnam Internet Information Center) This of course represent a huge advantage for Westerners, not only because their skills (related to computer literacy and English proficiency) are in demand on the job market, but also because familiarity with the usages of the Internet facilitates access to countless resources while enabling the maintenance of networks (colleagues, families, friends) that bolster social capital; a situation of privilege, which should positively affect adaptation. However, because Vietnamese media is broadcasted mainly in Vietnamese, (in most newspapers, on national television and radio and, in the world of Vietnamese publishing, and also –in Hanoi– through daily loud-speaker announcements by authorities), Westerners who do not know the language are inevitably in a situation that excludes them, by virtue of their limited access to most of the media content of Vietnamese society; therefore they are ‘missing’ part of the cultural reality of Vietnam and Hanoi.12 The last decade marks an unprecedented increase in people’s access to information. “The Vietnamese government had for a long time been very cautious about allowing free access to online information, considering it ‘a potential source of harm to the political, social and cultural integrity of the country’.” (Internet World Stats). And though Internet access may not be subject to same stringent restrictions as in China, free speech is not yet a reality in Vietnam, especially considering that critical political voices are still systematically repressed. Vietnamese authorities continue to (there is one nation-wide bilingual –English/Vietnamese- newspaper, one Hanoi -based bilingual English/Vietnamese newspaper and one Hanoi -based English newspaper and one Ho Chi Minh-based English newspaper, and all of these are state controlled) 12 14 arrest people, and imprison nationals and foreigners for disseminating politically subversive content, though concomitantly, government officials deny that this is taking place. 13 Westerners and Vietnamese nationals benefit from increased access to global media, though contents are monitored and filtered. What's more, all local and national media are controlled by state regulations and supervision,14 including radio, television, the Internet; even the worlds of art, literary publications and entertainment are censored when need be. One can imagine that Westerners (except for those who have experienced life under an authoritative communist regime) may not understand the full implications of censorship (in political practice and public expression), taking the privilege of free speech ‘at home’ for granted, and not necessarily realizing that this privilege is somewhat revoked on Vietnamese soil and for all Vietnamese in Vietnam.15 The Ideoscape: It follows that the ideoscape of Vietnam and Hanoi is permeated by rigid political ideologies, albeit tangible efforts by political authorities to make changes (in some sectors of the political economy) in accordance with national and international pressures. Again, the theme of ideology in Vietnam is much to broad to be covered in detail here, though major ideological (trans)formations characterize Vietnam and Hanoi particularly, as receiving societies. Major politico-economic differences set the The U.S. government has been trying to ‘verify’ various cases of prisoners of conscience, especially the case of Pham Hong Son (an American-Vietnamese), who already spent 42 months in a Vietnamese prison (on a 13 year sentence -later reduced to 5) for downloading a paper entitled "What is Democracy?" from a U.S. State Department Web site, then translating and disseminating it to friends. “The government insists it is not repressing religious or political rights. "Some people may argue that Vietnam does not have freedom and democracy and only has a one-party system. But you know, our ultimate goal is to maintain political stability and serve the interests of the people," Prime Minister Phan Van Khai said in a June [2005] interview. "We do not agree with arguments from the outside that there are prisoners of conscience in Vietnam. We do not have any prisoners of conscience in Vietnam." (Nakashima, 2005; Washington Post Foreign Service, 29/9/2005: A14) 14 This includes Voice of Vietnam a state radio broadcaster, VTV the principal state television broadcaster, VTC a state sponsored digital TV service, Vietnam News Agency the official national news agency, Tuoi Tre a daily newspaper targeting Vietnamese youth, Vietnam Net, VnExpress, and 24h.com.vn popular online newspapers, Nhan Dan the official Communist Party newspaper, among others. 13 15 Understanding how indoctrination works hand in hand with censorship and being sensitive to its social, political and economic effects is important in ‘knowing’ how to navigate life and relate to others in an authoritative communist context. 15 North of the country, including and especially Hanoi, apart from the center and the South. The procommunist North (including Hanoi) constitutes a particular environment that differs not only from Ho Chi Minh, but also from the political economies of most Western countries. The history of Vietnam and the antecedent actions of the Communist party16 coupled with deep national pride and the politico-economic transformations of the last twenty years, make the national and Hanoian ideoscape a complex terrain of contradictory and paradoxical points of views, that influence fields of practice and the structure of relations (in production, labor but also in politics, law enforcement, social control, surveillance, etc.). But the Vietnamese ideoscape today and its relation to ‘foreign presence’ in the country cannot be understood without accounting for ideological struggles that go back further, notably to the experience of colonization (the imposition of French structures of domination and exploitation, the Romanization of the Vietnamese language, the Catholicization of Vietnamese society, the institutionalization of a European style of education, etc.), colonial modernity (the institutionalization of medicine –competing with traditional beliefs17, the imposition of the modern Christian calendar year, the efforts of Vietnamese intellectuals to articulate a modern “Since Vietnam regained independence in 1945, history has recorded at least four harrowing experiences: 1. After the Japanese surrender to the Allies in 1945, [… and the French capitulation] the communist party [… wanting to secure the seat of power for itself] staged a ruthless campaign against all nationalist factions [albeit the initial plan to establish a nationalist coalition government]. 2. In 1969, the communist party endorsed the creation of the Provisional Revolutionary Government (PRG) in South Vietnam as a neutralist political entity […] based on the principle of equality, democracy and mutual respect. […] Less than three months after the fall of Saigon, [and albeit plans for a national election for a national assembly –unifying South and North Vietnam] both the PRG and its elder sibling, the National Liberation Front for South Vietnam (NLF), were disbanded by the northern [communist] unifiers,[who, again secured the seat of power…]. 3. The Paris Agreement in 1973 included a Hanoi -instigated article which called for the creation of a Council of National Reconciliation and Concord, and which publicly proclaimed the commitment of all signatories to resolving Vietnam’s domestic problems through a peaceful process of political talks […] fighting resumed almost immediately after the signing of the peace agreement. […] Hanoi ignored the peace agreement [and instead…] conducted a series of military operations which accelerated the collapse of South Vietnam in April 1975. 4. At the May 15 victory celebration [in 1975], Politburo member Pham Hung representing the Workers’ Party, solemnly appealed for national unity and reconstruction [… and] called on all soldiers, officers, and officials of the old regime to undergo a period of reeducation “from three days to thirty days”, it was accepted as a magnanimous and humane treatment. In reality, the reeducation period was prolonged for up to fifteen years or more to those deemed “stiff-necked reactionaries”. [See Truong Nhu Tang, A Viet Cong Memoir (New York: Vintage Books, 1986),]” (Le Xuan, 2002; Yale Global Academic Papers) 17 “Traditional Vietnamese medicine is based on the premise of air, fire, water, earth, and metal, with associated characteristics of cold, hot, wet, and dry. Elements must be kept in balance similar to Chinese traditions of yin/yang and hot/cold.” (Kaleidoscope: Vietnamese; University of North Carolina Greensboro, no date [Online]) 16 16 cultural identity distinct from that of the colonizers18) and the post-colonial condition (fighting for particular kinds of sovereignty on a divided geo-political terrain, envisioning particular ‘national’ orientations,19 while having to contend with the historical, ethnocentric/Eurocentric construction of Westerners as ‘superior’ or at least ‘self-important’ –First with the French, then the Americans and later with the influx of Western experts and self-absorbed Western tourists– and ostensibly, the orientalist construction and ‘consumption’ of Vietnamese subjects/objects). With regards to Vietnamese and Hanoian ideoscapes, other major areas of analysis, which can only be mentioned in passing here, are 1) the constitutive diversity of the Vietnamese spiritual and religious landscape and the ideologies that either support or revile doctrinal differences within the nation;20 2) the (traditional or emergent) ways of thinking and the values/beliefs that support particular structures of social relations, and produce specific forms of cultural and social capital – notably those that are tied to the configuration and transformation of gender roles, household Since the cultural revolution of the 1930s, many Vietnamese intellectuals worked hard against ‘French ignorance’ toward Vietnamese subjectivity, (Bayly, 2004) thus translating Vietnamese texts into French as “a way of dealing with the humiliation of colonial domination and [as] a way of putting Vietnam back on a civilisational [sic] par with the rest of the ‘modern’ world.” (Goscha, 2004: 135) 19 “This tension between ‘modernisation’ [sic] and ‘Westernisation’ [sic] on the one hand and the need to rethink ‘tradition’ and ‘authenticity’ on the other was not unique to Vietnam. The difference is that in the context of French colonial domination, of censorship and surveillance, Vietnamese intellectuals did not have the real chance to ‘nationalise’ [sic] these borrowings from the West, like their Japanese or Thai neighbors could. The Vietnamese did not run their own country independently, since the French had claimed that role for themselves.” (Goscha, 2004: 168) So when historical convergences allowed the Vietnamese to finally contemplate the possibilities of sovereignty and cultural redefinition, the model of domination and the experience of exploitation and censorship, may have been more salient than the doctrines of European liberalism, capitalist production or those of old (lost?) frames of traditional values; which could have stirred the organization of Vietnamese society differently, if it hadn’t been for the historical interplays of forces involving Chinese dynastic domination, modern colonialism, authoritative communism, industries of warfare (the contemporary proliferation of arms production), capitalist/ neoliberal imperialism, the Vietnamese disposition towards resistance and the utopian construction of political ascendancy. 20 “While individuals, by and large, enjoy freedom of religion in Vietnam, there are restrictions on non-authorised [sic] religious groups. Non-recognised [sic] […] Protestant groups, particularly in the Northern and Central Highlands regions, have faced severe restrictions and – at times - repression. The leaders of the breakaway Unified Buddhist Church of Vietnam remain under de facto house arrest. In positive (if modest) steps forward, a 2004 Ordinance on Belief & Religion sets out a legal framework for official recognition of religious groups, while restrictions on some Protestant groups have been eased. In November 2006, the US removed Vietnam from its list of Countries of Particular Concern on religious freedom.” (Foreign Commonwealth Office) Reported 2005 estimates on the distribution of religious affiliations, indicated proportions of 9.3% Buddhist, 6.7% Catholic, 1.5% Hoa Hoa, 1.1% Cao Dai, 1.1% Christian-Protestant, 0.1% Muslim, while 80.8% of the Vietnamese claim no religious denomination. (Harris, Moran and Moran, 2007) 18 17 practices and family dynamics, modes of cohesion, forms of social trust, types of group membership and networking strategies (Dalton et al., 2002); and 3) the assumptions, convictions and philosophies that already orient and will continue to influence the collective consciousness of generations and communities of interest, and their variegated attitudes towards prevailing structures of power relations. It follows that within the context of the ideoscape, various categories of Westerners (women, homosexuals, unmarried older men/women, etc.) will occupy particular positions in these structures and that social perceptions will influence the configuration of their relative privileges/disadvantages, thus potentially generating experiences of inclusion/exclusion. The foundational precepts of Vietnamese ideoscapes are also embedded in language and the textual expression of ideas. This is a clear disadvantage for Westerners, if they don’t speak the language and if they are not sensitive to countless symbolic subtleties. Certainly, additional research is needed to theorize and empirically examine the linkages that exist between ideological differences, the configuration of privilege/disadvantage, processes of migrant adaptation, and experiences of inclusion/exclusion. There is however, substantial evidence that ‘overseas professionals’ are likely to misunderstand the workings of host-country structures and their normative expectations, and that they are required to undergo a ‘resocialization’ process to avoid facing conflicting demands between roles and selfconcept. (Lee and Larwood, 1983) Notably, it was found that “expatriates deliberately seek an accommodation with the host country that does not alienate them from important values in their country of origin.” (Lee and Larwood, 1983: 664) So we can at least submit at a more general level, that Western expats may adjust their attitudes and transform dimensions of their identity contextually, but that they are purportedly more likely to maintain key behavioral and ideological dispositions that correspond to their ‘Western character’ and home-country frames of reference. 18 The Technoscape: I implicitly pointed to the development of major infrastructural transformations and new growth in technological demand, in the section on mediascape (with regards to mass communications, networking capabilities, etc.) and the financescape (with regards to industry and production). Again, the intersection between scapes is evident. In relation to the mediascape for example, it should be noted that major developments in the telecommunications industry are bolstering the national economy as well as international business, while generating unprecedented transfers of technology and knowledge. Notably, Microsoft Corporation committed to establish its first Vietnamese information technology training center in Hanoi, as part of the Post and Telecommunication Technologies Institute, while in Ho Chi Minh, the company iSpace opened a training center for computer technicians, offering a six-month ‘hardware’ program for 225$ USD and an eight-month ‘network security’ program for 430$ USD. (Internet World Stats) These developments parallel many other transformations affecting Hanoi, and Vietnam particularly. The government of Vietnam is well aware that the promotion of technology and knowledge transfers is essential to the country’s development. As such, it implemented key policies meant to liberalize (to some degree) related market spheres. With the 1988 Ordinance of the State Council and the 1991 Decree of the Council of Ministers on the Transfer of Foreign Technology, Vietnam has worked to formalize the modalities of exchange between foreign stakeholders coined as the “transferors” of technology and know-how, and national parties, coined the “transferees”. This is indicative however of Vietnam’s reliance and dependence on foreign technologies, on foreign expertise, and on foreign capital (more generally). At the micro level and considering the presence of Westerners in Vietnam, the dependence on foreign know-how, and on foreign technologies speaks to a tacit dynamic between Western expats, who are perceived as the ‘producers and 19 importers’ of such forms of capital, and the Vietnamese, who de facto are constructed as the beneficiaries. The flipside of the coin is that on one hand, Westerners may still foster the belief that developing countries are certainly in need of the expertise which the expatriates have to offer" (Neville, 1970) On the other hand, it implies that knowledge transmission is often a one-way process: Western professionals are justified in acting as 'experts' or 'authorities'. Be extension, the structure of power relations within Western organizations/corporations established in developing countries is bound to reflect to some degrees the inequalities I just described. “In this unusual social interface between highly educated technicians from rich countries and communities in extreme poverty, relationships of power and inequality are enacted in ways that profoundly shape […] policies and programs. […] In addition to their expatriate staff, [NGOs and foreign businesses] usually employ small armies of "nationals", from […] professionals and office workers to drivers and guards" (Pfeiffer, 2003: 726) Such dynamics may create tensions “between local and expatriate employees [causing] the local staff to be less willing to be cooperative or supportive of the expatriates with whom they have to work. Without local support, expatriates may experience greater difficulty adjusting to their new jobs and the new environment […]." (Toh and DeNisi, 2005: 132) It follows that occupational fields and organizational cultures may impart particular attitudes regarding the ‘other’ and the receiving society; and that Westerners may again be placed in a position of privilege, which paradoxically sets them apart ‘as experts’, while requiring them to foster ‘inclusive thinking’ if they are to successfully promote knowledge transfers. (Kealy, 1990) The Politico-Legal Field: This summary analysis of these various ‘scapes’ can be supplemented by a succinct look at current politico-legal conditions in Vietnam. The politico-legal field in Vietnam is a nebula of arbitrarily enforced sets of controls. In this field, Westerners experience very contextual privileges and 20 disadvantages, because there is a constant uncertainty as to how rules will be enforced. For example, with regards to traffic laws, Vietnam, but Hanoi particularly, is quite a chaotic setting, whereby Westerners make a ‘leap of faith’ every time they drive or cross the street. To be clear, traffic laws in Hanoi are seen as suggestions. People run red lights all the time. People drive against traffic in one-way streets. Motorcyclists opt for driving on the sidewalk to avoid road jams. And it is common for drivers to swerve into the oncoming traffic lane to pass someone in their own lane during rush hour. Drinking and driving is common and even tolerated by Vietnamese police. These conditions speak to a Vietnamese and Hanoian rapport to laws, rules and ‘social order’ that is completely different from that of Westerners. Adjusting to such a chaotic urban scene may well be challenging, especially with a mindset on how things ‘ought to be’ -as a comparative judgment relative to what Westerners are used to in the West. The traffic police in Hanoi is generally instructed to leave Westerners alone (though many of them drive motorbikes without a license –authorities are not administratively equipped to control this –nor the systemic traffic problems), though for small infractions (such as running a red light), police do sometimes attempts to stop foreigners and demand money ‘on the spot’ –which they will personally pocket.21 Conversely, being found guilty of causing an accident while driving without a license may incur a 3 to 10 year jail sentence. 22 The following blog entry is quite revealing on subject of Westerner-Vietnamese police relations: “The Vietnamese police are really quite pleasant people - I've spent entire evenings drinking rice whisky while negotiating for the return of my bike - but the police have pitifully small salaries and this is one of the perks of their profession. So understand the game - this is all about money - specifically how much you're willing to part with. You're not going to rot in jail for months before anyone knows what happened to you and you're not going to be taken out the back and tortured. So if you do get arrested, relax. here's what to do: 1) Always bribe the first man who asks for your papers; the more officials involved, the higher the eventual price tag. This rule I learned early... 2) Never hand over original papers you aren't prepared to buy back. 3) Be friendly and cheerful. You WANT to give them money. Their children are probably hungry. 4) Accept the negotiations for what they are; you are purchasing your freedom and your possessions. How much you pay is a function of how long you are willing to sit, how desperate you look, and whether you can make them laugh.” (PBS blog) This blog entry is however a little out of date, and currently, on the streets of Hanoi , it is customary for Western expats who might get stopped by police, to politely excuse themselves for not speaking Vietnamese and drive away. The police still attempts to arrest tourists who rent motorbikes in order to extort money, though Westerners who live in Hanoi , usually know what to do. 22 “The penalties for driving offences should be clearly understood. For example, driving without a proper license may involve severe penalties. Experience has shown that such penalties might be as much as a three year jail sentence for driving unlicensed, up to ten years imprisonment for driving unlicensed and causing an accident, and up to twenty years imprisonment for driving unlicensed and causing an accident resulting in death.” (Australian Embassy in Vietnam) 21 21 Traffic is but the tip of the iceberg, in terms of understanding how policy and regulatory frameworks structure relations between Western expats on one hand, and Vietnamese society, Vietnamese law enforcement and Vietnamese nationals on the other. In addition to differences regarding the lack of free speech and restricted political freedoms, corruption is endemic in Vietnam, so those who can afford to bribe or engage in ‘strategic collateral plays’ are significantly advantaged in some respect; though Westerners may be relatively disadvantaged as they may be targeted and harassed on illegitimate bases. Based on the results of the 2008 CPI (Corruption Perception Index), an international survey targeting experts and business people, Vietnam is in the 123rd position on 180 countries surveyed. Still in the lower third of the overall distribution, Vietnamese authorities are aware that corruption threatens the stability of the political system. (Van, 2008; Vietnam Net Bridge) Understanding how corruption structures the relation between Vietnamese nationals and Vietnamese authorities is important as it provides insight into the politico-economic culture of Vietnam and Hanoi. The politico-legal field of Vietnam is extremely complex, not to mention ‘different’ from those of Western nations. It is a field that clearly destabilizes and modulates the privileges/advantages of Western expats. Adaptation to the politico-legal realities in Vietnam and Hanoi requires that Westerners make important ‘adjustments’ in their assumptions regarding rights and liberties. In some instances, the law targets foreigners, singling them out and providing exclusionary conditions (some advantageous and others not), while in other cases, Westerners are subject to the exact same restrictions as Vietnamese nationals. It is true that experiences of inclusion/exclusion are subjective though they do relate to the way laws/rules, and their contextual enforcement, incur privileges or 22 disadvantages. In Vietnam, the saying “It is not what you know, but who you know that counts!” reflects well the relative positioning of Westerners in the matrix of social controls. In fact, differences between ‘Western national contexts’ and the Vietnamese and Hanoian contexts may in fact profoundly confront the habitus23 of Western expats. Bourdieu’s notion of habitus is specifically relevant here, because living in developing countries for extended periods of time (while having been ‘socialized’ in the ‘Western First World’) entails facing the circumstantial irrelevance or incongruence of Western habituses. Westerners who live in Vietnam may need to examine the internal logic that determines many of their ‘cultural dispositions’ and adjust (or recalibrate) many of the things they can ‘take for granted’ at home, including the right to privacy, freedom of expression, even convictions about what constitutes a ‘desirable’ social order. In light of important differences between Western and Vietnamese consciousness (as nuanced forms of politico-cultural identities), Westerners may legitimately feel compelled to create (or take advantage of) spaces and opportunities that bolster their cultivated habitus; which also explains why Westerners living overseas (like so many migrant communities all over the world) tend to establish networks of institutions, organizations and businesses that cater to their needs, preferences and priorities – and sometime specifically on the basis of nationality (every third Friday of every month Canadians in Hanoi meet for dinner). This is why expat communities are actually fertile grounds where Western-ness and Western (national) cultural forms/identities are produced and reproduced; thus, notwithstanding the exclusionary effects of boundaries (thick or thin, flexible or rigid) between 23 The habitus refers to patterns of behaviors, as well as sets of internalized ideas and acquired preferences that are produced by historically located processes of social conditioning. (Bourdieu, 1977 and 1977 [1972]) Essentially, the habitus is a “system of durable, transposable dispositions, structured structures predisposed to function as structuring structures, that is, as principles which generate and organize practices and representations that can be objectively adapted to their outcomes without presupposing a conscious aiming at ends or an express mastery of the operations necessary in order to attain them. Objectively 'regulated' and 'regular' without being in any way the product of obedience to rules, they can be collectively orchestrated without being the product of the organizing action of a conductor.” (Bourdieu, 1977: 72) 23 categories of Westerners (between nationalities or based on axes of difference), and between Westerners and Vietnamese nationals. Finally, whether living and working in the developing world and Vietnam specifically transforms the habitus is a question of identity transformation and reflexive behavioral adjustments that transcends ‘the moment’; one that starts with adaptation and may lead to the reformulation/remodeling of the habitus over time (thanks to and creating situations of inclusion), but which by no means eliminates exclusion or guarantees integration. Conclusion: In this paper, I sought to develop and share a particular understanding of Vietnam and Hanoi as receiving contexts for Western expats; and argued that complex conditions in various spheres of life and work have significant bearing on the configuration of privileges/disadvantages, and on specific experiences of inclusion/exclusion. I showed that the Vietnamese and Hanoian ethnoscape, financescape, mediascape, ideoscape, technoscape, and politico-legal field produce specific conditions that modulate power relations between Western and Vietnamese actors, actants and collectives. 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