20/11/2008 NEW GENERATION: POWER PANTIES FOR SPANX Technology Enterprise with Tools and Techniques |Alice Molyneaux 2388737 CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................. 3-5 2. THE UK MARKET ................................................................................................................... 6-10 3. TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS ................................................................................................... 11 -15 4. INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY ............................................................................................................... 16 -18 5. IMPROVEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS ............................................................................................. 19 - 21 6. PERSONAL PROGRESS DIARY .......................................................................................................... 22 - 23 7. APPENDIX ..................................................................................................................................244 - 31 8. REFERENCES ................................................................................................................................. 32 - 33 Alice Molyneaux 2 INTRODUCTION The purpose of this report is to undertake an in-depth analysis of the control underwear market, with the aim to realise the future direction of Spanx’s ‘Power Panties’. This process will include a thorough examination of the control underwear market regarding the size, profitability and ultimately the environmental variables that could affect the next generation product. Following this, an attempt will be made to consider the various technological developments and decide whether these changes will be feasible, alongside looking at the intellectual property protection currently in place for the patented product. Lastly, drawing on all the relevant information found an objective plan for power panties will be created to discuss new and innovative improvements. The original prototype for Spanx were a pair of body shaping cut-off tights created in America by Sara Blakely, a decade ago in 1998 (Spanx, Inc). However, as the business evolved and demand for the sliming products grew, Blakely added new designs and this included in 2002 ‘Power Panties’. Entering the UK market in 2003 they were described as ‘the first no leg-band, tummy-minimising, mid-thigh hosiery shaper’ (Spanx, Inc.) and an answer that would fix all women’s body issues (The Observer, 2008). Firstly set up as a sole trader, Spanx soon traded as a private limited company ensuring as business continued to grow in the UK and rest of world each shareholders liability was limited to their original input. Blakely remains the CEO of the company and sends out the company ethos to create ‘inventing and enhancing products that promote comfort and confidence for women’ (Blakely, 2008). Consequently, any new innovations for the next generation product intend to follow and fulfil this company philosophy. The following table outlines all the product features of ‘Power Panties’: Product Power Panties Company Spanx Place of manufacture Costa Rica Fabric Content: 85% Nylon, 15% Lycra® Spandex/Elastane; 100% Cotton gusset. Colours Nude, Black and Cocoa Sizes Small, Medium, Large and Extra large. Price From £17.50 to £22 (dependant on place of purchase) Available to buy Upmarket department stores and online retailers. Ex: House of Fraser and Asos. Alice Molyneaux 3 ‘Combining the comfort of regular underwear, the feel of hosiery and the power of a shaper’ (Spanx, Inc), here are the benefits ‘Power Panties’ provide for users: Slimming benefits: Strong tummy control panel - tight knit of the panel provides firmness and compression Sheer knit leg portions to above the knee avoid a mark or bulge on the thigh. Creates the impression the user has dropped a dress size (see figure 1.1) Smoothes any lumps and bumps across the thighs, stomach and bottom. Comfort benefits: Made from soft, cool hosiery type material (see figure 1.2). Non-binding waist band that does not pinch the wearer 100% cotton gusset Flat sewn seams up the front and back Figure 1.2 – soft and stretchy hosiery fabric (Asos). Functional benefits: Figure 1.1 – The image on the right illustrates the effects of Spanx when worn by the user (Spanx, Inc.) The loose knit of the buttock panels inhibit bunching and riding up of the undergarment during sitting and other movements Without a waistband provides there is a smoother fit without lines below clothing (see figure 1.3). No visible underwear line Unlike tights they can be worn with skirts and open toe shoes. Figure 1.3 – a side Invisible under leg (no leg band) creates body-shaping control that is flattering and view of the product illustrating the smooth comfortable. and close fit of ‘power panties’ (Asos). Alice Molyneaux 4 Illustration of benefits Non-binding waist band that does not pinch Strong tummy control panel No visible underwear line Sheer knit leg portions to avoid lumps and bumps on thigh Invisible under leg (no leg band) to make more comfortable. Source: Spanx, Inc. THE UK MARKET Alice Molyneaux 5 INTRODUCTION 2.1 MARKET VALUE With regard to the product, the shapewear market in the UK is described as ‘booming’ and estimated to be worth £135 million according to industry insiders (The observer 2008). However, shapewear forms just a small part of the overall underwear market sector, which is estimated to be worth £3.3 billion (Mintel 2008). Positively, women’s underwear saw the highest growth in 2007 of 2.6 per cent in comparison to the overall underwear base rate of 2.2%, a 0.1% drop from the previous year (Mintel 2008). The market place is extremely saturated and this is true particularly for shapewear: There are now specialised shapewear ranges, home brands and most recently celebrity endorsed products. However, opportunities still remain for the lingerie sector with shapewear paving the way as one the fastest sources of growth (The Guardian 2007). Yet, Mintel’s latest report on underwear retailing suggests steady growth relies on five factors: Innovation, service, fashion, advertising and marketing. Ultimately, in today’s competitive market place, differentiation is essential when competing against the mass number of producers. 2.2 CURRENT ENVIRONMENT Spanx ‘power panties’ are currently pitched at the upper end of the shapewear market, for instance they are only sold at top departments stores (luxury retailer Selfridges do not stock any other specialised brand but Spanx). By limiting the accessibility of the product Spanx have created a certain prestige to their products; to the brand name, the quality and the styling. Yet considering the economic crisis consumers are currently facing, it is possible current and potential buyers may start to downgrade to similar and cheaper products. The British Retail Consortium (2008) have highlighted that consumer confidence is considerably low, with only one in five believing a recession will be over in a year. Yet, Blakely has commented that Spanx have increased sales previously throughout a recession (The Observer 2008) and Mintel reason this is because underwear is a relatively low cost for consumers when times are hard (Mintel 2008). Therefore, Spanx need to capitalise on this by continuing to encourage consumers to part with their money by adding value to their product. 2.3 CONSUMER MARKET Currently, ‘power panties’ are targeted towards older women. On face value this is logical as national statistics (2007) show that in 2005 at least 30% of women aged 35 -45 were overweight. This increases by 5% for women above 45 (see figure 2.1 below for all statistics). With most women also believing they should weigh less than they do (Borland and Akram 2007) there was an ideal market opportunity to sell Spanx to these women; as an affordable way to create a slimmer figure without any drastic action. Yet, with the product launching in 2002 it seems that the hype Alice Molyneaux 6 surrounding ‘power panties’ has decreased and profitability for this market will eventually mature. Without product development, this target market will become at best a ‘cash cow’ for revenue. Figure: 2.1 Body mass index: by sex and age 2005 Women Desirable (18.5 to 25) Underweight (18.5 and under) 16–24 25–34 35–44 45–54 55–64 65–74 75 and over 5 2 1 1 1 1 3 63 52 44 36 34 23 32 Overweight (25 -30) Obese (over 30) 19 27 30 35 37 42 40 12 19 25 28 28 34 26 Source: National statistics (2007) Future opportunities are considered to lie with a younger audience, Mintel suggest (2008) that shapewear can be brought to a broader and younger audience through fabric innovation. Adding to this, figures have shown 15-24 year olds spend more on underwear than older age groups (Mintel 2008). Almost a quarter spend £11 - £20 per month (Mintel 2008) despite the fact they more likely to have less money to spend. Over 50% of women under 25 maintain a desirable weight (national statistics 2007) but they also face greater pressures to look good than older women (Borland and Akram 2007). They also are more likely to wear tighter clothing and consequently they could be lured into buying shapewear to enhance a smother and more shapely appearance, as opposed to becoming slimmer. In addition, considering the following graph (see figure 2.2), results show that older and more affluent consumers are more likely to have been exposed to shapewear products that are sold at stores such as M&S, BHS and Debenhams. On the other hand, younger consumers purchase their underwear at retailers such as TopShop and New Look. Neither of these stores sells shapewear and consequently young consumers are unexposed to the benefits and availability of shapeware in the UK. Figure 2.2: Where underwear is bought and by whom, December 2007 Base: 2,053 adults 16 + 2.4 INFLUENCE OF FASHION The rise and popularity of shapewear is AliceSource: Molyneaux 7 GfK NOP/Mintel (2008) strongly affected by current fashion trends. Mintel (2008) indicate that in the past four years there has been a rise in popularity of skirts and dresses, which have led consumers to become more interested in slips, hosiery and shapewear. Inevitably, growth is dependent on how fashion changes. If there is a sudden change for volumised and unfitted clothing then there will be no need and subsequent market for Spanx. WGSN, a leading specialist in trend analysis, suggest that currently women are drawn to Hollywood stars who promote a curvaceous and shapely figure. They have also predicted that seamless and structured styles will continue to be prevalent next spring/summer 09 as illustrated in figure 2.3 and 2.4. Intimate directional details and shapes for spring/summer 2009 Figure 2.3 –seamless and moulded styles will encourage consumer to continue buying shapewear Figure 2.4 – underwear that creates smooth lines will be needed when wearing structured clothing. Source: WGSN 2007 Alice Molyneaux 8 2.5 COMPETITION As mentioned previously, competition is fierce within the shapewear industry. M&S are one of the key competitors: Standing as the number one shop for underwear (Mintel 2008), they also sell over a million items of their shapewear range ‘Magic wear’ every year (Mail on Sunday 2008). Adding to this, a product development technologist at M&S has suggested that when the ultimate shapewear was launched sales doubled (The Times 2008). It appears M&S are making a conscious effort to make shapewear sexier as illustrated in their advertisement campaign (shown as part of figure2.5). Similarly to Spanx they intend ‘firm up what you’ve got’ as opposed to promoting weight loss (The Times 2008). There are also ‘celebrity’ stylists who have launched their own lines using clever marketing to sell their brand. This includes Trinny and Susannah and Gok Wan, who both pitch their prices higher than ‘spanx’. Lastly, there are the lingerie specialists who Spanx will be directly competing with in department stores such as Ultimo and Intimas. On the following two pages are illustrations of selected competitor’s products: Marks & Spencer ‘Magic Shaper Shorts’ Price: Very cheap at £4.00 Product shapes hips, thighs, bottom and stomach. 82% polyamide, 17% elastane lycra and 1% cotton Only available in one colour ‘Magic Firm Control Thigh Slimmer’ Price: £20 Similarly they slim the thighs and bottom but not the tummy. Unlike spanx, they have an elasticised waist. They contain more lycra with the fabric composing of 65% polyamide, 35% elastane lycra. Figure 2.5 – M&S’ sexier advertisement for shapewear. Source: Marks & Spencer. Feature engrained pattern on the front Available in a few basic colours. Trinny and Susannah ‘Bum lifter magic pants’ Price: Expensive at £30 Product shapes hips, thighs, bottom and stomach. Alice Molyneaux 9 Similar fabric content to M&S ‘Shaper Shorts’: 86% Polyamide, 13% Elastane, 1% Cotton| Stylised design to product – curved waist band Ultimo Figure 2.6 – Front and back view of bum lifter magic pants. Source: Magic Knicker Shop ‘Control Short’ Figure 2.7– Side view of black and nude ‘control short’. Source: Ultimo Price: Mid-range £25 Shapes bottom, thighs and stomach. Waistband has added silicon strips to ensure shorts stay in place. Shorts sit extra high for more tummy control. Available in black and nude. Similar content to Spanx’s power panties; 91% nylon, 6% elastane and 3% cotton. 2.6 SUBSTITUTE PRODUCTS Alongside direct competitors, there are a number of substitute products that will fight for the same target market as Spanx. Perhaps most akin to shapewear is the hosiery market. At the moment, there is a predominant fashion trend for coloured and patterned tights, which will lower sales for Spanx because it is both unnecessary and uncomfortable to wear them underneath. In addition, a Mintel hosiery report in 2007 highlighted part of the reason the hosiery market has seen growth is because there are now an increasing number of support and body shaping tights. If this trend continues then the need for Spanx’s ‘power panties’ could diminish. Other indirect competition comes from both the natural and unnatural methods of changing the body: Exercise/Dieting and cosmetic surgery. The latter industry provides a greater turnover than shapewear and Mintel’s report on cosmetic surgery (2007) estimated the industry to be worth over £900 million by the end of 2007. The price differential is key when marketing shapewear. However, it also seems they need to minimise the fact that it is not long lasting for this would be the reason consumers would choose surgery instead. While dieting and exercise are becoming important to the public in achieving a healthy lifestyle (Mintel 2007), let alone for the beauty benefits alone. Therefore, Spanx need to segregate from this market and ensure they promote ‘power panties’ as a complementary product to a healthy lifestyle as opposed to an alternative. Alice Molyneaux 10 TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS As mentioned previously innovation and differentiation are the future driving factors for success. Yet, ease of wear and comfort are two elements that must be maintained for any new developments. The idea is to encourage users to wear their ‘power panties’ regularly rather than simply for an occasion. In the past, the development of fabric innovation has led to lighter shapewear (Mintel 2008) and it essential Spanx look to new technology for continuous improvement. Penn Elastic, a manufacturer of elastic knitted fabrics for lingerie and shapewear, suggest the new generation of shapewear products will offer ‘decoration and function as one’. This will be driven by better use of colour’, materials and overall styling to enable Spanx to stay ahead of the market. 3.1 MATERIALS Innovation involving the following fabric properties: Stretch, weight, softness, support and shape are the key components that will improve the overall design of ‘power panties’. However, since there are a number of suppliers offering new materials that fulfil the criteria above, a break down of the best offerings have been selected and listed below: Penn Elastic DreamShape ‘Family of revolutionary stretch fabrics’, which are able to adapt to each individual user. Shapewear is not constricted by the fabric and instead will conform to the functionality of the product. Constructed using weft lock, the fabric allows for ‘integrated power zones' that provide greater pressure to be applied in specific areas only. The materials can be used as a base for print and embroidery allowing for more feminine and attractive styling. Soft and supple power can include stripes, plain and ornamental power nets for decoration. On the thigh there is a ‘power zone’ which illustrates the materials ability to apply stronger pressure in the necessary area. Here you can see the ornamental power net – provides supple power and attractive Close fit that conforms to the body of each individual Alice Molyneaux 11 user Source: Penn Elastic Dogi International fabrics - Invisible (Trademark registered) Offer sheer and light fabrics developed especially for lingerie to give stretch and support. Create invisible fabrics through new and exclusive light yarns that allow quick recovery. Despite lighter in weight, they still maintain the same tension as heavier conventional fabric. Weighing 10 grams less than the conventional fabric, invisible still provides at least double the tension. Conventional fabric is heavier and provides less tension. Light Sheer fabric can be integrated into new design for ‘power panties’. Source: Dogi International Invista - Easy Set LYCRA® fiber (Trademark registered) Invista have manufactured a new brand of elastane fibres that improves the quality and efficiency of elasticised fabrics in circular knits, which is currently used to create ’Power Panties’. The fabrics are described to set at a lower heat temperature, which would allow Spanx to ‘maximise energy saving or maximise throughput by increasing frame speed’. Low heat also keeps colours brighter, retains shape and is said to be fibre of choice for moulded fabrics. 3.2 DETAIL Alice Molyneaux 12 WGSN (2007) have highlighted that fabric innovation will make it possible to add delicate and feminine features to shapewear. Ultimately, this will make the garment more attractive and therefore more appealing to consumers. One of these developments includes the introduction of flat lace effect fabrics. This would create subtle details to the ‘power panties’ without causing visible lines under clothes. WGSN outline for spring/summer 2009, one of the key directional details are Source: WGSN ‘lace placements’. Therefore, small sections of lace could be strategically placed across the shapewear, making sure to avoid the ‘control zones’. Here is an example of a flat lace effect fabric manufactured by Dogi International Fabrics. This will allow subtle details. A key trend for lingerie s/s 09 is ‘lace placement. On the models you can see the lace is both sparing and strategically place. On the ‘power panties’ a strip of lace could be placed running vertically from the top to the bottom similar to the Dior design above. This would avoid most ‘control zones’. Another form of technological development has centred on imprinting garments to add detail. WGSN refer to long-lasting heat transfer prints as a guide for the future and the ability to integrate enhancing graphics into materials. Perhaps one of the most notable and inspiring direction is currently provided by Yun Ding. Her designs illustrate the use of ultraviolet and thermoreactive printed inks on spandex (the key component of ‘power panties’). This suggests the possibility of either a printed design or logo that could be places upon the next generation of Spanx products: Ultraviolet and thermoreactive printed inks on spandex by Yun Ding Parasol printed with thermochromic inks by Rachel Craddock Aluminium sputter-printed polyamide by Schoeller Intimate materials: Transform by WGSN – Here is an illustration of new technologies that will inspire the development of prints for S/S 09 .toimprgarments. Source: WGSN Alice Molyneaux 13 3.3 FUNCTIONALITY AND COMFORT One of the best ways to improve the functionality and fit of shapewear is by considering current fabric innovations for sportswear. Often the fabric components and product specifications are extremely similar. For instance, the active sports trend report for spring/summer 09 (WGSN) highlighted the importance of ‘power stretch’ and the ability to create ‘Ultra-lightweight, ultrastretch, physically responsive fabrics’, which is also essential for shapewear. New fashions refer to ‘contoured and ‘seamless’ knitted fabrics that are more flexible and comfortable for the wearer, creating a ‘barely there’ effect. Nike Pro is one company using the newest technology to enhance the performance of their designs as illustrated and WGSN indicate they will influence the future. The following properties described by Nike of their latest Nike Pro shirt on the left illustrate the future possibilities for innovative shapewear: ‘Four way stretch’ - designed to give the maximum range of movement in any direction. This form of stretch could improve the comfort of ‘power panties’ making them more wearable every day. ‘Intelligent seam placement’ - Seams are strategically placed away from high-friction zones to stop rubbing and discomfort. ‘Flat lock construction’ – Reinforced seams that are both durable and comfortable. This will promote the longevity of ‘power panties’ and allow users to wear them often. Source: Nike Pro WGSN also advise the importance of comfortable seam details and they propose flat external stitching: Here you can see that the flat seams are visible on the outside preventing any friction but maintaining a smooth effect. It also adds a design feature to the garment This Alexandra Dell’Acqua design for S/S 09 also shows bright red flat seams on the front to create fashionable visible Alice Molyneaux outlines. 14 : WGSN 3.4 MANUFACTURE Seamless technology is described as the key element for the future and at beginning of the year and The Knitting Industry (2008) has recently highlighted two specialist manufactures catering for the future: Santoni SpA – SDW8 New circular knitting model composes of a ‘double needle bar raschel knitting machine equipped with eight guide bars with a working width of 44 inches’. 24 gauge (needles per inch): It can produce two seamless garments at once side by side. Once knitting is complete the garment does not need to be sewed but simply cut. Only need to sew trims. High-tech machinery can also use electronic patterning by means of piezo elements described to give ‘unlimited pattern scope’. American company DuPont, a global leader in science and technology, have formed an ink that is specially used for piezo-electric printheads use by this machine. These inks have been developed to print on silk, nylon and nylon/elastane blends. Below are the following ‘acid’ colours available: A573 Cyan A542 Red A526 Magenta A580 Blue A551 Yellow A537 Orange A591 Black A565 Brown Source: DuPont Cifra - RDPJ 6/2 N Double needlebar jacquard raschel machine Believe machinery is more innovative than circular machinery such as Santoni because garments are non-run and ladder proof. Alice Molyneaux 15 Garments come out machine as one piece. Machine ability to design any kind of pattern or logo; not limited by size, diameter, style or colour. Dying is only process after knitting. INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY One of the core reasons Spanx has become a globally successful brand is the secure intellectual property that is in place for all their products. Even before business grew, Blakely knew the importance of securing a patent. However, agents refused the idea at first because they believed it was not commercially viable, which originally led Blakely to research heavily and write the patent herself (The Observer 2008). The claims have since been readjusted and both the patent and trademark are registered in the UK. 4.1 PATENT Spanx have an extremely strong patent in place used for ‘power panties’ that is very easy to find through the government’s Intellectual Property Office. Simply by entering the term ‘Spanx’ using ‘quick search’ on espacenet will draw up several of their registered patents as illustrated in appendix 1. This should ensure no competitors use Spanx’s patented technology unlawfully. Spanx have four different patents in place but ‘power panties’ are protected under ‘Hoisery Garment and Method of Making the Same’. Below is a table with the key registered details: Patent number: US2007199134 (A1) Publication date: 2007-08-30 Inventor(s): DUCKMAN JADIDEAH [US]; WILLIS BILLIE JUNE [US]; ADAMS BRIAN [US] Applicant(s): SPANX INC Classification: - international: A41B11/00; A41B11/00 - european: A41B9/04 Application number: US20070675713 20070216 Priority number(s): US20070675713 20070216; US20060777040P 20060227 Source: esp@cenet database The patent is registered both internationally and in Europe. Filed only last year, Spanx are under no threat their competitors will soon be able to copy the patent soon. The descriptive document Alice Molyneaux 16 provided gives specific and precise information about the functionality, design and manufacture of the garment. The structured description is divided into several sections: Background of the Invention – Gives understanding of how the hosiery item differs to other current products available and also highlights advantages of their design. This strongly shows the novelty of the design in its own right and how it is not comparable to other companies’ designs. Brief Summary of the Invention – Outlines exactly what the product is and how it is specifically constructed to create new advantages. This refers to the type of knit used (tighter in control regions), shape, length and the fact it does not have a waistband. Other companies can therefore not copy these exact specifications. Detailed Description of the Invention– This section elaborates on the brief summary and goes into further detail of the exact design accompanied by visual diagrams (however, these are not available to see on es@cenet). This includes what the garment can be knitted from, how it should be knitted, the preferred machinery settings (including needle type), variation of stitch height, varying stiffness (such as stronger for the tummy panel) and the fabric denier. Although, the text clearly clarifies the design of the product, it also states: ‘It is to be understood that the inventions are not to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed and that modifications and other embodiments are intended to be included within the scope of the appended claims’. Therefore, highlighting the duty of other parties to know an infringement of the patent is not limited to the explicit claims shown. This will prevent competition from both copying the exact design and also altering minor components to create a similar replication. For the latter would also be a blatant and deliberate way to copy the patent. 4.2 TRADE MARK Spanx have also managed to trademark their renowned and trusted company name. Since the shapewear market is infiltrated with a number of similar products, this is crucial to ensure customers can distinguish ‘power panties’ from any other product. In addition, when the next generation of ‘power panties’ are launched, the trademark name should give consumers confidence in the new product. Taking over a year to file, the trade mark was registered on 19th February 2002. The Alice Molyneaux 17 trademarked name can cover everything from Hosiery, lingerie, pants, shirts, shoes and swimwear. There is another company that includes Spanx within their title: ‘Spanx and Redmond. However, as their business involves computer gaming and software it will not cause any confusion for customers. To see the registered trade mark details for Spanx see appendix 2. 4.3 REGISTERED DOMAIN NAME Using the America Registry it was possible to find the registered domain name for Spanx in 15 countries including the UK. Two websites UK users are likely to utilise is Spanx.com (global site) and spanx.co.uk (UK site for purchasing). They have also even secured spanx.net, which then redirects to their .com site. The UK domain name Spanx was registered with Nominet on 30th September 2004, which was actually after the company entered the UK market. The renewal date for the domain name is next year on 30th September 2010. To view further details see appendix 3. Spanx.com Spanx.co.uk Alice Molyneaux 18 IMPROVEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS Improvement Description USE COLOUR - The market only offers basic nude colours for shapewear. This is practical but not visually attractive for the wearer or eyecatching when merchandised. INNOVATION - Recent fabric innovation means colours no longer need to be dull and matt. For example, WGSN highlight use of opalescent and sheer shades, which will still be undetectable under clothing. Benefit - The luminosity of these materials looks more attractive on the wearer’s skin. - Broaden its aesthetic appeal to fashionable and younger customers. - Project an image of quality and innovative design to consumers. - Creates a luxury pearlised and iridescent look. FASHION DETAILS - Innovative details are cited as the source of growth (Mintel 2008). - One detail to be applied is flat lace (such as that by Dogi international fabrics). - Creates an aesthetical garment, which is more similar to lingerie than control underwear and still no visible lines. - ‘Lace placements’ key trend for Spring/Summer 09 and consequently, to appeal to more fashionable customers the lace will be innovatively placed running vertically from the top to the bottom of the garment. WEARABLE EVERY DAY - Currently garment is gentle cool handwash only and cannot be tumble dried for this will cause the garment to shrink. - Change of fabric or a new blend could be - Add value to the product because competitors relying on the functionality of the garment to sell the product. - A more directional and fashionable shapewear product to attract fashion conscious customers. - Highlights it is not simply about sliming benefits but the aesthetic design of product. - If the garment can be washed easily, it is likely the user will wear the ‘Power Panties’ more often. - Boost sales because Alice Molyneaux 19 considered. -For example, M&S’ ‘Magic Firm Control Thigh Slimmer’ is machine washable and can be tumble dried. The fabric consists of 65%polymide and 35% elastane Lycra. GREATER STRETCH consumers are more likely to purchase easy care garments. - View product as a staple item and therefore require more than one pair. - To make the product wearable everyday there needs to be greater flexibility and movement to the fabric - Many consumers feel that control underwear restricts movement but with new stretch properties to the - For example the Nike Pro shirt illustrate the garment this would reduce the possibility of four way stretch effect. -This gives maximum range of movement to the wearer but the garment remains tight and physically responsive. - Flexible stretch would mean the garment would be easier to put on and take off. -Using Penn elastic dream shape maybe one way to create similar effect as it has unique stretch properties that gives stricter control where necessary. A SMOOTHER FIT - Seamless technology means that there is no need for seams that are either uncomfortable, or as illustrated on spanx not visually attractive. - By eliminating ‘sewing’, Spanx can reduce labour intensive processes. This will help to reduce costs. - The garment would not need to be cut and only the lace trims would need to be sewn. -No known competitors are using seamless technology. - Santoni SpA – SDW8 is one of the latest - Sleeker silhouette circular knitting machines to provide this advanced technology. BUILT TO LAST - Currently Spanx use soft lycra. However, new fibre Easy Set LYCRA® by Invista is described to especially improve the quality of fabric produced by circular knits (used by Spanx). - It is also best used for moulded fabrics and if the garment was seamless this would be applicable. - Improved quality would mean the garments would be more durable and last for longer. - Consumer could wear the garment without fear of the quality deteriorating and falling apart. -Keeps colours brighter and retains shape. ENHANCED SHAPE - Competitors Trinny and Susannah illustrate how the shape of the product can be altered - A modern and stylised design that will look modern and fresh Alice Molyneaux 20 to differentiate the design. to market. - Wgsn described ‘feminine details’ as key for the future and a slightly curved waistband would further extenuate the hourglass figure. -Could change the shaping so that it becomes a trademark design that people only associate with Spanx shapewear. - Shorten the length of the panties on the legs by an inch. Still retain significant control on the thigh but when users choose to wear shorter styles the panties will not be visible. LIGHTER - New technology highlights the possibilities of creating a ‘barely there underwear’. - Use of light yarns that provide greater tension than conventional yarns. - Ensure garment in wearable for different items of clothing. - More comfortable to wear and this will entice consumer to wear the item not just for occasions but everyday. -Dogi International is one provider to be investigated. DISTRIBUTE PRODUCT -Only available in department stores but this There is huge profit potential in TO YOUNG FASHION is not where young customers shop for their bringing ‘Power Panties’ to the underwear (Mintel 2008). younger market because 16-24 STORES -Idea is not to flood the market with the product but instead select particular midrange fashion stores such as Topshop to supply the product as a concession. - Aim is to broaden ‘power panties’ appeal year old women spend more money per month than any other age group (Mintel 2008). It will give greater exposure to the benefits of shapewear. to a larger market and make it more More likely impulsively buy the accessible for young people to buy. product if it displayed next to body conscious designs. VISUAL MERCHANDISE - There is no need for packagaing. Make the - Consumers will be able to product touchable and more attractive by visibly see the new and placing on hangers. improved product. - To avoid snags make ‘power panties’ slightly thicker dernier. -Being able to touch and feel stretch and softness will encourage purchases. - Panties can be merchandised with figure hugging fashion garments to encourage impulse purchases. Alice Molyneaux 21 PERSONAL PROGRESS DIARY Thursday 9th October Yesterday, I sent my proposal idea to Tim to look at a shapewear product made by Spanx. I think it will be an interesting topic and since it is relevant to my area of study I will have a better understanding and knowledge of this industry that I can apply. I’ve already feel there are opportunities to develop the product such as changing the design and branding. I just need reliable market evidence to prove this. I have done a brief check to ensure there is trustworthy information available and Mintel have in depth reports relating to the market and there are also relevant journals available. Sunday 12th October Tim Jones emailed me back and said it was a project worth doing, which is good. However, he highlighted it maybe difficult to get information in certain areas and to look at extrapolating data from bigger market segments. I’m going to consider looking at the underwear retailing as a whole and figure how this can relevantly apply, such as looking at overall market growth and performance. Saturday 18th October Started to research spanx and found out the specific specifications of the product. Looked at where the product is sold and the different price points used. Took notes from the Mintel ‘Underwear Retailing report 2008’ and considered the current market conditions for control underwear. Opportunities seem to involve clever fabric innovation and there are suggestions retailers should look to attracting a younger market, who are unaware of the benefits. Tuesday 28th October Looked at the patent and intellectual property for the product. Blakely actually created the original prototype for the patent herself in 1998. This has been reformed and checked by a patent agent and registered in Europe. There is significant information here about the benefits of the product and exactly how it is manufactured. However, the text refers to drawings, which are unavailable to see. This makes it very hard to understand how exactly the product is exactly manufactured. Monday 3rd November Alice Molyneaux 22 Started to create a written draft of the report – Introduction draft complete. In addition used Emerald to find journal articles that indicated women’s attitudes to their bodies and how today society is is fixated with being slim. Understanding how women think and feel will make it easier to design and market a product, which is right for them. Thursday 6th November Only two weeks to go and it is not long till the final suggestions need to be made. Looked at the latest technology – moulded and smoother fabrics seem to be what most new developments for the future currently centre on. It is about creating a more wearable and attractive garment. I’m starting to process these change individually to try and decide which will best apply add value to the next generation. Friday 15th November In the process of writing the finalised version of the report. Emailed Tim a draft earlier in the week and he replied today saying it looked good so far. Although, I need to label the images to make it very clear to whoever is reading it exactly what I mean and to remember each section is equally important. I am struggling to finalise my final improvement such as whether it would be better to cerate a seamless garment and use bonding, or if external seams to add detail would be best. The aesthetics are very important to the new design. Wednesday 19th November The report is complete and hopefully it achieves the outlined objectives of the brief. The overall design is innovative, fashionable and fresh to both the current and new target market. Alice Molyneaux 23 APPENDIX 1 Evidence of search for patent Log on to espacenet.com and begin a ‘quick search’: Search worldwide database Select ‘persons or organisation’ Enter company name Spanx as the search term The following four results are listed: The first result is the applicable patent for ‘power panties’: ‘Hosiery Garment and Method of Making the Same’. Here is the viewable patent: The second two items are definitely not the correct patent for ‘power panties’ because one is forAlice a braMolyneaux and the other24for tights. Document includes the exact patent number, publication date, inventors, the applicant ‘Spanx, Inc’, both European and International classification, application number and priority number’. Abstract confirms it is the right patent for garment by giving a brief outline of product. Part of Abstract: ‘A hosiery garment including a top support portion that has a waist panel, buttock panels, a tummy panel and leg panels’. It is possible to view the both the description (detailed explanation of exactly what the product is, the legal claims and the current legal status. However, within the description there are references to diagrams that are not available to see on espacnet. Both the mosaic tab and original document are deactivated. Alice Molyneaux 25 APPENDIX 2 Evidence of search for Trade Mark Using the UK Intellectual Property Office website it is possible to make a trade mark enquiry: Search for the trade mark word Enter the text spanx This brings up the following seven results: There are two trademark numbers named SPANX – the first and the last Alice Molyneaux ‘Spanx and Redmond’ are a software and 26 Here are the case details for the Spanx Trade Mark: Lists the language, filing, publication and registration date, the class including ‘lingerie and hosiery’ and the name and address of the applicant and representative Registered the same year Spanx entered the UK market. Blakely has secured another Trade mark in 2004: E2088250. This is to use the trademark Spanx not just for apparel but ‘makeup, body creams and lotions, cosmetics’ also: Alice Molyneaux 27 Spanx have registered their trademark for another form of goods. APPENDIX 3 Evidence of search for the Domain name: The search for the Spanx domain name began by using nominet.org.uk. However, this did not achieve any results: Nominet is stated not to be the registry for the domain name spanx. Therefore, another domain search engine named the American registry was used to find the following results: Spanx entered as the domain search Alice Molyneaux 28 This retrieved some of the following results: UK site name cited as unavailable Spanx.com and spanx.net also registered. The UK retrieval was then checked: www.spanx.co.u k Alice Molyneaux 29 On the American registry the UK site for spanx is registered at: GX Networks Ltd t/a 123-Reg.co.uk [Tag = 123-REG] URL: http://www.123-reg.co.uk – This link led to the following website where Spanx can be entered in the domain search: This led to the following records of the registration for spanx.co.uk to be found: Registered on the 30th September 2004, the renewal date is due on 30th September 2010 Alice Molyneaux Despite not being able to find spanx.co.uk on Nominet at first, this shows the website is 30 The registration for Spanx.com was also found: Registered with different company to spanx.co.uk Created on 11th January 1999, the site is due for renewal on 11th January 2018. Alice Molyneaux 31 REFERENCES 1. Anon., 2008. Control pants are big business. Daily Mail, 9 Oct. Mintel Group. 2. Anon., 2008. New seamless warp knits from Cifra. The Knitting Industry, 22 Oct. 3. Anon., 2008. Consumer confidence hits new low – Just 1 in 5 say recession will be over within a year. British Retail Consortium, 10 Nov. 4. Blake, S., 2007. Intimate trend: Shaping the future. Trends Intimate/Swim Fast Tracks, 31 May. WGSN. 5. Borland, H. and Akram, S. 2007. Age is no barrier to wanting to look good: women on body image, age and advertising. Qualitative market research: An international journal, 10(3), pp. 310 – 333. Emerald Group Publishing Limited. 6. Clarke, A., 2007. Hoist your bosoms to the sky- and give two fingers to gravity. The Guardian, 4 Nov. 7. Cooke, R., 2006. The riddle of Spanx. The Observer, 26 March. 8. Dogi International Fabrics. 2008. Invisible. Available at: http://www.dogi.com/english/products/invisible.html [Accessed 5 November 2008] 9. DuPont. 2008. Artistri A500 Series Acid Dye Ink. Available at: http://www2.dupont.com/Artistri/en_US/products/inks/500series_aciddye.html [Accessed 5 November 2008] 10. France, L., 2008. The woman in control of America's bottom. The Observer, 13 April. 11. Hunter, B., 2008. Santoni shocks by extending seamless concept into warp knitting. The Knitting Industry, 5 June. 12. Instra America Registry Inc. 2006. Domain search results. Available at: http://domaincheck.americaregistry.com/check.php?s=americaregistry [Accessed 16 November 2008] 13. Invista. 2008. Easy Set Lycra Fibre. Available at: http://www.lycra.com/g_en/webpage.aspx?id=87 [Accessed 5 November 2008] 14. Nominet UK. 2008. Whois record for spanx. co.uk. Available at: http://www.123reg.co.uk/order?action=whois&page=whois&domain=spanx.co.uk [Accessed 16 November 2008] Alice Molyneaux 32 15. Nike Pro. 2008. Thermal Extreme Long Sleeve Mock. Available at: http://www.nike.com/nikeos/p/nikepro/en_US/ [Accessed 6 November 2008] 16. Penn Elastic. 2008. Dreamshape. Available at: http://www.pennelastic.de/en/welcome.htm [Accessed 7 November 2008] 17. 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Available at: http://www.spanx.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2990119&cp=2992555.3010053&pare ntPage=family [Accessed 8 October 2008]. 26. UK Intellectual Property Office. 2008. Hosiery Garment and Method of Making the Same. Available at: http://v3.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?KC=A1&date=20070830&NR=200719913 4A1&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_GB&CC=US&FT=D. [Accessed 28 October 2008] 27. WGSN Report, (2007), Active Sports Materials: spring/summer 2009, WGSN. 28. WGSN Report, (2007), Intimate Materials S/S 2009, WGSN. 29. WGSN Report, (2007), Intimate S/S 2009: Directional details and Shapes, WGSN. Alice Molyneaux 33 Alice Molyneaux 34