TURBO KIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
HIBOOST HB 103 TURBO KIT FOR
2.3 AND 2.0 LITER MAZDA 3
Congratulations, you have just purchased the best turbo kit available for the
Mazda 3
Picture may differ from actual product.
In order to have a smooth installation, it is best to read the instructions and go
step by step.
Make sure you have all the tools needed to do the job. A regular metric
wrench set and sockets, Phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, pliers,
electrical tape, knife and basic tools is what is needed. 4 quarts of new
and synthetic oil, some silicone sealant and red Loctite thread locker is
also required.
First, you need to remove the wiper blades and arms. This is done by removing
the cups covering the wipers nut. Remove both nuts and remove the wipers by
pulling them off.
Then remove the plastic cover by removing the rivets and seal that goes from
side to side. Be careful not to break these little rivets.
After this, then unbolt the nine 10mm bolts to remove the metallic cowl.
This is done to allow the stock manifold to come off the car.
Now remove all bolts to remove the heat shield from stock manifold.
Unbolt the two 14mm bolts from exhaust and all bolts from exhaust manifold to
head. Disconnect both O2 sensors. Remove the exhaust header from car.
Now remove the front bumper by loosing the bolts under it, the plastic fasteners
from both sides of splash guards and the bolts on top. Once the bumper is off,
disconnect the MAF sensor, unbolt the small MAP sensor, remove the air filter,
and filter resonator and intake from its place.
Remove the two 10mm bolts from front frame.
Place the intercooler in the indicated spots by bolting it with the 2 brackets
welded to it, with the same two bolts that were there before.
Now it is the best time to do the electrical wiring because there is enough space
to work between the motor and the firewall.
Look for the grommet shown in picture and make a cross cut large enough to
run the connectors and wires thru it.
Refer to the electrical instructions.
Under the glove compartment, look for the black fuse cover. Remove it by
releasing two little hooks that hold it in place. Then look for two little butterfly
bolts and unscrew them. That will loose the fuse block and remove from its
place. This will give you space to work. After you have done the cuts in the
grommet, run a piece of wire or cable, run it from the outside to the inside and
with this you will be able to pull the Haltech wires thru the firewall. The Haltech
ECU will fit behind the air conditioning fan case inside the cabin.
Run the harness and wires along the stock wiring (following the same path) and
tie the haltech wiring to the stock wiring with tie wraps.
There is one connector with 8 or 6 pins and there is a flying lead wiring. The
Connector is to plug into the second harness that will connect now into the
Haltech sensors.
The black sensor is the coolant temp and this is screwed into an aluminium
case. Cut the upper heater hose(on head side), shown, and place it in between
the two ends. See yellow circle.
There is a metal bracket that holds the brake booster line, the fuel lines and
other stuff between the valve cover and ECU box. Remove that bracket
completely to clear the intake pipe.
The Gray sensor and connector is the air temp sensor and that goes in the
charge pipe. Screw the sensor into the provided threaded hole in the charge
pipe.
The 3 wire connector goes to the Map Using the MAP sensor as a template, drill
two 6mm holes on top of the plastic beam. Once this is done, place the sensor
underneath the beam using the bolts and nuts supplied. (SEE PICTURE). Find
the only vacuum source in the intake manifold by removing the rubber cap on it.
Remove it and run the vacuum line for both the map sensor and the blow off
Valve using the Tee provided.
VACUUM SOURCE.
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR LOCATION
Install the new turbo manifold, the turbocharger and down pipe. Install and bolt
the down pipe, midpipe and exhaust. With the turbo in place install the
intercooler pipes. #1 pipe that goes under the oil pan, #2 pipe that is the U
shape pipe into the intercooler inlet.
The new version uses a different donpipe, so the mid pipe is eliminated and we
now have the addition of the remote wastegate.
Pipe #1 is the longest of all with the bracket welded to it.
Pipe #2 is the U shape pipe
Pipe#3 is the shortest one and it is aluminium
Pipe#4 is the one with the blow off valve and tight elbow.
The other pipe is the intake pipe with air filter.
Then # 3 pipe out of the intercooler and lastly, #4 pipe into Blow off Valve
charge pipe and into throttle body.
Bolt the BOV into the charge pipe and run the vacuum line into intake manifold.
Make sure that all clamps are tight and that the clamps are as close to the edge
of the hose as possible. This ensures that the clamp is after the bead and that it
will not come popped out.
With all pipes in place, you can install the bumper back into its place.
Place the isolating thermal wrap to cover the wiring from excessive heat from
the turbocharger as shown in picture as well as the heat shield.
Now you can start routing the oil lines:
Here are the two oil lines: The thinner one is the feed oil line and the thicker is
the oil return line.
1st oil feed line: Remove the oil sender from its location. Install the supplied
fittings in the way shown to clear the clutch cylinder.
Then install the oil feed line from the fitting to the turbo. There are two washers;
one should go between the turbo and banjo and the other between the banjo
and bolt. Tighten the bolt hard enough to crush the washers. Do not over tighten
as you might snap the bolt.
2nd oil return line: Remove the oil plug and oil on bottom of oil pan. Place the
supplied fitting in the oil plug place and tighten well to prevent any oil leaks.
Now route the oil return line from turbo to oil drain fitting.
Now install the Air Intake System with the supplied hose and the air mass
sensor into the intake (snake) pipe using the small bolts and spacers supplied.
Install the air filter.
Use the L shape bracket to bolt the stock map sensor, which was originally
placed in the intake system, to put it in the battery plastic box using the existing
hole.
Please re- check all hoses, all connections and vacuum lines to make sure that
everything is tight and in the right place.
Refill with new oil, synthetic preferred, start the engine and check for any oil
leaks or any exhaust leaks. Once the engine is warm, go for a test drive. Use
only the best octane fuel available in your area and make some short runs in
third or fourth gear. Listen for any pinging. If it does, let off the throttle.
Detonation can destroy an engine in seconds.
You are ready to Boost!!!!!
Enjoy!
If you want more power, we got it for you. Here are a few parts that we have
developed for the Mazda3.
Forged internals:
Built block
Big Boost kit dyno sheet: