TERENCE JANERICCO COOKING CLASSES
42 FAYETTE STREET
BOSTON, MA 02116
1-617-426-7458
P.O.BOX 226, HERRICK BAY, BROOKLIN, ME, 04616
1-207-359-2068
terencej@bellatlantic.net
www.terencejanericcocookingclasses.com
CHAIN RESTAURANTS -- NOT SO BAD
A few years ago a good friend made a comment about my never eating in chain restaurants. I
thought he was being unfair. When I started to think about this essay I realized he was wrong. I do
go to chain restaurants and in fact am surrounded by them. Within a very short walk there are Legal
Seafoods, Smith and Wollensky, Maggiano's, McCormick and Schmidt, and Flemings. Ok, so he meant
a different level of chain. He had a point: when I go out to eat I want a fine dining experience most of
the time. My excuse has also been that there are not many chains near me. That is not quite true,
within a half a mile there is a Panera, Subway, Applebee's and Olive Garden. Probably there are
others, this is not my area of expertise Somehow I am never there at meal times and do not think of
them when I am going out in the evening. I consider Subway and Panera to have a similar irritating
issue. There are just too many decisions to make. I like the sandwiches from Panera, but not those
from Subway-their bread is really terrible.
I must admit that when I go to and from Maine I stop at McDonald's for an egg McMuffin for
breakfast. I also sometimes order a Big Mac or a Whopper. But these are meals that I eat on the run
while driving to an end location.
On my trip to the South I decided that I would not avoid chain restaurants but take them as they
came. When I was driving into Beaufort SC I saw a Red Lobster. I have seen the ads for years and
always wanted to try this particular chain. After my tour of Beaufort I drove back and had lunch at
Red Lobster. The waiter asked what I wanted to drink and I ordered iced tea-unsweetened. She
mumbled something and went away. I decided on the grilled shrimp Cobb salad. The waiter returned
and seemed more interested in the book I was reading than anything else. I found it charming. She
took my order and again said something I did not quite get. The salad arrived. There were about a
dozen small shrimp, I would guess 41-45's with blue cheese hard cooked eggs and greens with
tomatoes. The "Caesar" dressing was thicker than mayonnaise. It was short of being sliceable. Again
the waiter said something I did not get. The salad was served in a soup plate and I was able to toss it
with the dressing to coat everything. Just as I was to take my first taste she returned with a tray of
biscuits and said they were fresh out of the oven. That apparently what she had been mumbling all
along. I am not a biscuit fan, but I tasted these. They were heaven -light as air, flaky and buttery. I
wanted to devour them. Restraining myself I started on the salad. It was good and the shrimp were
perfect. The delicious grilled flavor complemented the sweet and moist texture. One of the reasons I
am not wowed by biscuits is that they can be wonderful just out of the oven but lose quality very
quickly. When I tasted the second biscuit it was not as great as the first, but still delicious. I would
definitely go Red Lobster again. But there are none in my area.
Later in the trip I was in Dumfries, VA for the night. The dining options were severely limited but after
driving around a bit, I found a Ruby Tuesdays. I had eaten at one of these in Brewer, Maine several
years ago. That meal was memorable because the waiter sat down in the booth with me as she took
the order. She could not provide a rare hamburger and I raised the questions as to why were they
selling unsafe meat. She got upset and pushed the rather large salad bar. I do not recall what I had
for that meal. But this time I was met at the door and immediately asked I would like their hot
shrimp appetizer. Later in looking at the menu, I saw if they had not offered the appetizer I would get
the meal for free. I did order a small steak with grilled shrimp. But the first two side dishes were not
available. The shrimp were large, I would suggest U-18 as the size and over-cooked, chewy and
almost too tough to eat. They should hire the guy from Red Lobster. The steak was rare. The service
was iffy and while I was finishing my meal the waiter offered the party behind me biscuits that had
just come out of the oven. I never got any. My view was Ruby Tuesday may have a very large salad
bar, but I want more from a restaurant than tough shrimp and haphazard service. I do intend to try
some other chains to see if they are worth the time.
Overall Food chains offer a pretty consistent product that does not make food history, but that
nourishes the body if not the soul. Some are certainly better than others such as Panera over
Subway. Also there are dozens out there I have not tried but in due time I shall try some more. My
suggestion is not to sneer too quickly. They may not be The French Laundry, but then they are not
trying to be. Dollar for dollar you may possibly get a much better value for your dollar than some of
the restaurants that tout themselves as fine dining and are not even a hair's breadth better.