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Cornhole Game
Description: Cornhole is a game that has had a longlasting run of popularity in the Midwestern US, particularly
in Indiana and Ohio. However, it is increasingly becoming
popular for tailgaters before football games throughout the
US. This project can be utilized as a construction class at
camp or a volunteer could build the game to be used for
recreation purposes.
Goal: To construct a Cornhole game using wood working
skills and materials.
Objective:
1. To learn the materials and tools needed to complete this wood project.
2. To learn the dimensions of the outdoor game.
3. To learn how to cut wood with saws and drill holes to bolt the project together.
4. To learn how to construct the bean bags needed to play the game.
Materials & Supplies:
 Compass
 2 - 5/16" bolts with washers and nuts
 1-5/8" Wood Screws
 Wood filler
Wood Tools:
 Miter saw
 Jig saw
 Power drill
Materials:
 3 - 1x3 x 8 SPF Lumber
 1 - 2' x 4' piece of 3/4" sanded (AC) plywood
 2 - 1/2" tall x 3/4" diameter round rubber bumpers
 Tape Measure
 Pencil
 Paint or Stain (and Polyurethane)
 Sandpaper
Alice K. Dolu, WVU Extension Agent, 4-H Youth Development – Marshall County
[TypeMarch
text]
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Procedure:
1. The first step to building your own cornhole game board is to cut the pieces for the frame.
You'll need two pieces of 1x3 cut to 47 inches and another two cut to 21-1/2 inches in
length. Butt the two 21-1/2" pieces into the sides (one at each end) of one of the 47-inch
pieces, and attach each with two 1-5/8" wood screws. Follow suit with the other 47-inch
piece, attaching it to the opposite end of the 21-1/2" pieces to form a rectangular box. This
is the basic frame to support the board.
2. Cut another 21-1/2 piece of 1x3 and attach it to the box frame. Each end of this brace
should be centered on the 47-inch sides and attached with wood screws.
3. For the playing surface you'll need a piece of 3/4" sanded (AC) plywood cut to the
dimensions of 47-1/2" in length x 23-1/2" in width. Center this piece over the frame and
attach with wood screws. As with the frame in the previous steps, be sure to pre-drill a
pilot hole and countersink for the head.
4. Place enough filler into the holes to fill any voids.
5. Cutting the cornhole in the board-we'll need a true, six-inch diameter circle cut precisely
8-7/8" down from the top of the playing surface, centered horizontally (at 11-3/4" across
the board). Draw the circle using a compass and cut it out by hand with a jigsaw.
6. For the legs you will need two pieces of 1x3 at least 12-inches in length. You'll also need a
1x3 cross-brace cut to 20-inches in length. Using your compass, lay out a half-circle on
one end of each leg and cut the curves using your Jigsaw or Band Saw. Next, drill a pilot
hole for the bolt (to attach the leg assembly to the frame) at the center-point where you
positioned your compass. The holes should be just slightly larger than the diameter of the
bolts you purchased for this purpose. Finally, measure down each leg 11-3/4" and make a
25-degree mitered cut as shown on the plans. (This angle will be 65-degrees from the side
of the leg) This mitered edge will eventually be parallel to the floor when the cornhole
game board is in use. With all of the parts cut, now would be a good time to give every
piece a good sanding. Be sure to sand the playing surface and the dried wood putty so that
the surface is as smooth as possible.
7. With all parts properly cut and sanded, we're approaching the end of this project. The next
step will be to drill the holes in the frame to accommodate the leg bolts. For the game
board to sit at the proper angle and not rock when placed on a flat surface, it is imperative
that these holes be drilled as precisely as possible. TIP: Be sure that you drill the holes on
the top half of the board where the cornhole was cut earlier and not the bottom half of the
board. If you make this mistake, the cornhole will be at the bottom of the playing surface
when playing the game instead of at the top where it belongs.
8. It's now time to complete the leg assembly. Place the two legs on a flat work surface and
position the 20-inch cross brace between the legs. The exact position of the cross brace is
not critical, it works best to attach it about two inches up from the long point of the leg.
Alice K. Dolu, WVU Extension Agent, 4-H Youth Development – Marshall County
[TypeMarch
text]
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Attach it at the same point on each leg with a couple of counter-sunk wood screws. At this
point, you can fill the screw holes in the leg assembly, and on the frame with wood filler.
9. To complete your cornhole game board, we'll attach the leg assembly to the frame. Turn
the cornhole game board upside down on a clean table or flat work surface, and slide the
two bolts (with a flat washer on the head) into the holes in the frame so they just barely
protrude through the frame. Slip another flat washer onto each bolt inside the frame, and
then move the leg assembly into position. Slip the bolts through the holes in the legs, and
then add another flat washer and a lock nut to each bolt. Tighten the lock nut so that the
leg assembly is secure, but not so tightly that the legs can't fold under the board. Turn the
assembly over on your work surface and open the legs so that your new cornhole game
appears ready for play. (Notice that the bottom of the legs won't quite be parallel with the
ground, because you'll still need to attach the 1/2" deep rubber bumpers to the legs after
applying the finish). For this surface, you'll want to use a high-gloss paint which will
allow the bags to slide somewhat on the surface. Semi-gloss or flat paint simply don't
allow the bags to glide well enough. Apply a few coats of gloss paint to the playing
surface of your cornhole board until you're satisfied with the playing surface. As for the
finish on the rest of the assembly, that is up to you. You may choose to finish the frame
and legs with the same high-gloss paint or maybe use polyurethane for protection. Just be
sure to remove the leg assembly before finishing and then re-assemble after the finish is
complete. Add the rubber bumpers to the bottom of the legs to complete the project.
Bags for Cornhole:
Supplies:
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Fabric Scraps (heavy fabric works best)
Muslin (acts like a liner)
Dried Beans
Thread
Cutting Mat
Ruler
Rotary Cutter
Needle and Thread
Measuring Cup
Straight Pins
Scissors
Alice K. Dolu, WVU Extension Agent, 4-H Youth Development – Marshall County
[TypeMarch
text]
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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Start out by cutting the fabric and muslin. Most Bean Bags are simple squares, but
you can make them any shape you like. Cut two pieces of fabric for each bean bag
you are making (7-inches by 7-inches). Also cut two pieces out of the muslin, the
same shape as your fabric, but about an inch smaller (I cut mine to 6-inches x 6inches). The muslin is actually what you will put the beans in. The muslin bag will
then be sewn into the larger shell.
Lay the 2 pieces of matching fabric squares (or whatever shape you made) on top of
each other, making sure the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. The right
side of the fabric is whatever side you want to show on the outside of the finished
bean bag. You want to match up the edges as well as possible. Do the same with the
muslin. Now, using a needle and thread, sew 3 of the 4 sides together. If you are
making a different shape, do your best to sew 3/4's of it together.
Use your scissors to clip the fabric at each sewn point. Be careful not to cut the
thread! This simply helps the fabric lay in the corners a little smoother. Now turn the
bag right side out.
We are now ready to fill our bean bags with beans. The beans will be put into the
muslin liner. Use 2 cups of beans.
Once your muslin bag is filled with beans, fold the top 1/2-inch of the opening down
into the bag. Sew the opening shut. Don't worry about how it looks because you will
not see it once it is in the bean bag.
Slide the muslin bean bag into the bean bag shell.
Just like with the muslin bag, fold the top 1/2-inch of the opening down into the bag.
Pin the opening shut so it stays in place while you sew.
Finally, sew around the entire bean bag, about a 1/4 of an inch from the edge.
Carefully pull out the pins as you sew (don't sew over them).
Alice K. Dolu, WVU Extension Agent, 4-H Youth Development – Marshall County
[TypeMarch
text]
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