1
WARNING
Please
do not attempt to row this shell before obtaining
proper instruction by reading the owner’s manual or viewing
the teaching video. You should also wear appropriate safety
gear, use only manufacturer-approved outfitting materials
and heed weather and water conditions when rowing. The
user of this product acknowledges both an understanding
and an assumption of the risk involved in rowing.
We here at Little River Marine ask that you always take
proper health and safety precautions when operating sports
equipment. Even though Federal Law excludes rowing shells
from carrying PFD’s (see the statue on the back of this page)
we highly recommend that you carry a lifesaving device in
clear view and reach of all participants. Some States’ Laws
override these Federal Laws. Please check the Laws in your
area. This should provide many years of safe and enjoyable
rowing.
Thank you, Little River Marine
Association News &
Announcements
2
PFD
Clarification
In our July/August issue (p.13), we said that under federal law, rowers are exempt from carrying
personal flotation devices and that the federal law supercedes local and state regulations regarding
PFD’s. However, George Spiess of the Susquehanna Rowing Association has pointed out that the
Federal law (and its pre-emption of state and local laws) applies only to waters that the US Coast
Guard deems “navigable.” All other waters are Ieft to state and local jurisdiction. So, if the Coast Guard
doesn’t classify the water you row on as navigable, you are subject to state or local law which could
mean carrying a PFD. To find out whether the water you row on is considered “navigable,” contact the
Coast Guard district in charge of the area nearest you.
1st District 617-223-8500
2nd District 314-589-3727
5th District 804-398-6291
7th District 305-536-5653
8th District 504-589-6188
9th District 216-522-3902
11th District 310-980-4300 x120
13th District 206-220-7110
14th District 808-541-2105
17th District 907-463-2025
Source
USCG
ADDENDUM: As of 1-1-98, we are under the assumption that the Federal Law changed to include all
watercraft as required to carry a lifesaving device. Please check with your local district to confirm.
3
LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANY
WARRANTY CARD
(PLEASE RETURN THIS TO LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANY)
P0 BOX 986, GAINESVILLE FL 32602
NAME: ……………………………………………………………. TELEPHONE: ………………………………………………………………
ADDRESS: …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
CITY: ……………………………………………………………….. STATE: …………………….
DATE PURCHASED: …………………………………………
ZIP: ……………………………….…….
PURCHASED FROM: ………………………………………………….
HULL LD. # LRC (LOCATED ON SIDE OF HULL) ………………………………………………………………………………………………
1. I HEARD ABOUT LITTLE RIVER MARINE PRODUCT FROM:
 MAGAZINE
 BOAT SHOW
 REFERRAL/FRIEND
 OTHER (SPECIFY)
2. MY MAIN REASON FOR ENTERING THE SPORT IS:
 EXERCISE/FITNESS
 RACING/TRAINING
 RECREATION
 OTHER
3. HOW OFTEN DO YOU ROW? .
 ONCEAWEEK
 2-4 T1MES A WEEK
 5 OR MORE TIMES A WEEK
4. MY ROWING LEVEL IS:
 BEGINNER
 INTERMEDIATE
 ADVANCED
5. THIS IS MY (CIRCLE ONE) FIRST I SECOND / THIRD SHELL PURCHASE.
I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A………………………………………………….
(MODEL/TYPE SHELL)
6. (CIRCLE ONE) I HOPE TO / PLAN TO / HAVE ALREADY TAKEN ROWING LESSONS
7.




MY OVERALL IMFRESSON OF LITTLE RIVER MARINE PRODUCT IS:
AVERAGE
ABOVE AVERAGE
OUTSTANDING
OTHER (SPECIFY)
8. DID YOUR LOCAL DEALER SERVICE YOU IN A PROMPT AND COURTEOUS MANNER?
YES .........…............. NO…………………………………..
COMMENTS:
9. DID YOU UNDERSTAND AND COMPREHEND THE OWNER’S MANUAL?
YES…………………………. NO ………………………… COMMENTS ………………………………
10. IN WHAT WAY CAN WE BE OF BETTER SERVICE TO YOU? (BE HONEST AND SPECIFIC)
Thank you for your spirit and support in purchasing a Little River Shell.
4
P.O. Box 986, Gainesville FL 326C2 - 352-378-5025 / 800-247-4591
Dear Rowing Enthusiast:
Congratulations on your purchase of a LITTLE RIVER rowing shell, the world’s finest and most sought after
recreational craft. We have been promoting the sport since 1977 with an endorsement list that includes NASA, the
Armed. Forces,’ the Boy’ Scouts of America, and Boating Industry’s “Top 100 Products’.
Recreational rowing is now recognized as the most complete aerobic and cardiovascular exercise available today
none better. We have provided this manual to ensure proper use and care of your shell along with techniques and
skills required to receive the maximum benefit of rowing. PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL CAREFULLY
BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ROW YOUR SHELL. IT INCLUDES PERTINENT INFORMATION ON YOUR
WARRANTY, AND IT WAS WRITTEN FOR YOUR BENEFIT.
—
We have a toll free number always available to service your needs (1—800—247—4591) should any problems arise
or any particulars do not make sense. Please feel free to call us with any comments and suggestions you may have,
or ask for a free copy of our Accessories Catalogue.
We would like to thank you again for your interest and Support in our products, and we hope that your shell and the
sport of rowing adds more years to your life and more life to your years.
LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANY
“dedicated to the growth and spirit of rowing”
5
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Product Information and Warnings
1
Warranty
3
Beginner’s Guide to Setting Up Rowing Shell
4
Lesson One
9
Maintenance and Problem Solving
13
Other Tips
15
Launching Shell from a Dock
16
“A Rowing Primer” by John Peinert
17
Advanced Rigging
21
Oarlock Diagrams
25
“Fine Tuning Your Craft” by Graeme King
28
Rowing Vocabulary ‘
32
Diagram of the SEASHELL
35
SPRINT & GUIDEBOAT Instructions
37
Stretching Exercises for Rowers
38
Repair and Maintenance
42
Rowing Shell Insurance
44
How to Lock Up Your Rowing Shell
45
Car Rack Instructions
46
Fin Installation and Replacement
49
HERITAGE Skiff Instructions
50
The T-9 Story
57
Getting Into a Capsized Shell
58
6
PRODUCT INFORMATION & WARNINGS
The following is a list of special cares and concerns that each new owner should abide by, respective to
each particular model. Neglect or abuse in these areas can and will disqualify your warranty protection.
Following the guidelines will ensure many satisfying years of performance and pleasure. PLEASE
TAKE THESE WARNINGS SERIOUSLY.
ALL SHELLS and SKIFFS
The outer color surface, gelcoat, has been put on extremely thin in order to reduce weight.
Gelcoat is a very heavy material: and, as you know, weight is a no-no in rowing shells. Thus, this
coating adds potential to stress-related cracks. Fortunately, these cracks are only in the surface
(not in the fiber cloth) and should not take on water. CARE IN LAUNCHING AND HANDLING
THE CRAFT SHOULD BE TAKEN AT ALL TIMES to help eliminate this potential. For instance,
dragging the bottom of the shell on the edge of the dock is not recommended. Should your
cracks become excessive, we offer a gelcoat home repair kit. See price list for current prices and
ordering information. Stress-related cracks of this type are not covered by the factory warranty.
Upon delivery of your shell, inspect the unit carefully and notify the factory within 48 HOURS to
confirm factory or shipping related stress cracks to ensure warranty coverage.
The enclosed hulls of these models need to breathe when they aren’t in use or stored
for the winter. IT IS IMPORTANT TO OPEN THE DRAIN PLUG AND/OR PORT HOLE
TO ALLOW THE HULL TO VENIILATE AT ALL TIMES (when not being rowed.)
7
SHELLS
 Storing and racking your shells should be handled in the following manner:
FOR OUTDOORS, store your shell upside down to prevent rain water from accumulating in
the cockpit.
IF UPSIDE DOWN, it should rest on the cockpit splash board or coaming of the shell,
preferably with the rack being padded, and up off the ground at least 8 inches. Do not rest
the shell across it’s decks unless in a LANDRACK. NEVER REST THE SHELL DIRECTLY
ON THE GROUND WITH THE WEIGHT OF YOUR BOAT RESTING ON THE RIGGER
OARLOCKS.
IF RIGHT SIDE UP, your shell should hang in slings or wide straps that conform to the hull
shape without resistance. NEVER LEAVE YOUR SHELL ON A HARD, FLAT SURFACE
FOR EXCESSIVE PERIODS OF TIME; this could alter or dent the shape of your hull. Also,
NEVER HANG THE SHELL FROM EACH ‘TIP’ END…POSITION THE SLINGS AT LEAST 4
TO 5 FEET IN FROM THE ENDS. This will ensure that a shell does not “droop” over
extended periods of time.
SPRINT STORAGE - The SPRINT should be stored in the same manner as the others
(upside down). However, FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF STORAGE, the DROP IN UNIT
should be REMOVED and set aside.
3. NEVER TIE DOWN THE SHELL WITH ROPE FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME. This
can cause a “rope burn” in the hull. A strap or padded rope is recommended. It is also
recommended to loop’ the strap around the hull when tying down or supporting its weight. DO
NOT USE THE TOW EYE IN THE BOW DECK. That feature is used for tying off, not tying
down.
4. If left outside, ALL SHELLS SHOULD BE STORED UPSIDE DOWN. Water seepage can be
prevented using this method. Overtime, the wooden feet and the gelcoat will fade if not
properly protected, (covered from direct sunlight)
PRO AM AND OLYMPUS
These shells are more high tech and more delicate than others and they need to be treated as such.
Extra care should be taken when handling, storing and launching your PRO AM 25, PRO AM ELITE,
or OLYMPUS.
The OLYMPUS should be transported like any other elite racing single. IT SHOULD BE SUPPORTED
BY FREE FORM SLINGS OR 4” THICK PADS ABOUT 8 FT APART. AS WITH ANY OTHER RACING
SHELL, MOUNTING THE OLYMPUS UPSIDE DOWN ON IT’S COAMING (LIKE A RECREATIONAL
SHELL) WILL RESULT IN THE LOSS OF STIFFNESS OVER THE LENGTH OF THE SHELL. DO
NOT SECURE IT ON THE ENDS. Tying down each end to the bumper can cause fatigue in the hull’s
stiffness over a period of time because of road shock and the like.
8
SPECIAL NOTE
Any attempt to re-enter your shell after capsizing could cause major and/or minor structural damage,
Re-enter your shell in emergency situations only (i.e. out to sea, cold waters perpetuating
hypothermia, etc.); otherwise, return or swim the shell back to shore or next to another craft where you
can enter the shell properly as described in this manual. (see page 55... Getting back into a Capsized
Boat.)
HERITAGE ROWING SKIFFS
STORAGE – The Heritage may be stored outside, right-side up on soft ground, padded dock or on a
Heritage Dolly. Be sure to pull BOTH the drain plugs so rain water won’t collect. RAIN WATER IS
VERY WEAVY AND IF ALLOWED TO COLLECT IN A BOAT COULD CAUSE DAMAGE
DAVITS: WHEN USING A DAVIT IT IS CRITICAL TO BE SURE NO WATER HAS COLLECT INSIDE
THE FALSE BOTTOM. WATER IS VERY WEAVY AND IF ALLOWED TO COLLECT IN A BOAT
COULD CAUSE DAMAGE. The Heritage should never be left for extended periods (even overnight)
HANGING FROM DAVIT’S OR OTHER “SLING” DEVICES. If you must, use a sling under the hull
(NOT HOOKED TO THE BOW & STERN TOWEYE) and make it mandatory to pull both the cockpit
and the liner drain plugs.
MAINTENANCE: REPACKING THE COCKPIT DRAIN PLUG. Compared to a powerboat weighing
several hundred pounds, these lightweight skiffs are able to shift and flex. Because of this, it may
develop a leak in between the inner and outer layers around the cockpit drain plug housing. This is
similar to repacking a prop shaft on a big boat. This procedure is explained under Maintenance and
Problem Solving, section 13.
ONE YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
9
Little River Marine Company
P. 0. Box 986
Gainesville, FL 32602
All LITTLE RIVER MARINE rowing shells are manufactured with high quality selected resins, fibercloth
and stainless steel materials, which have been tested under rigorous conditions to meet every possible
concern prior to leaving the factory. This warranty only applies to the original owner and is, therefore,
non-transferable. Every LITTLE RIVER MARINE rowing shell shall be free of failures resulting from
materials or workmanship for a period of ONE YEAR from the date of purchase if used under normal
circumstances and are subject to the following conditions:
1)
This warranty applies only if the shell is used in accordance with rowing related activities. This
warranty is void if the equipment is misused, altered, or improperly sunk. It also becomes void if
the equipment is used for promotions, (rental, clubs, training, etc.) and demonstrative purposes.
2)
This warranty does not cover bending, breakage, or any damage caused by improper usage,
accidents, or acts of God.
3)
All warranty claims are subject to factory approval, and the judgement of LITTLE RIVER MARINE
is final.
4)
All repairs covered under this warranty will be performed at the factory, and all transportation
charges are incurred at the expense of the customer. Defective parts must be returned before
replacement or repairs will be made.
COVERED
1)
Replacement parts and workmanship.
NOT COVERED
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
Normal wear and discoloration of all fiberglass parts,
Transportation to and from repair center.
Damage caused by abuse or unseaman-like use of the boat.
Discoloration, blistering, or cracking of gelcoat caused by injudicious storage.
Transportation of replacement parts.
Surface scratches and finish on all wooden parts.
Failure to comply with the “WARNING” section of the Owner’s Handbook.
We urge that you take a few moments to complete your LITTLE RIVER MARINE warranty card. It is
important for you to return this warranty form to the manufacturer in order to validate your warranty.
Failure to do so will void your warranty.
10
A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SETTING UP YOUR SHELL
As a beginner, the terminology and fine-tuning adjustments required to rig your shell can be quite
confusing, especially if you have never had to set up a shell before. Throughout this manual you will
notice that a lot of print is dedicated towards properly rigging your shell. A properly rigged craft ensures
that you learn proper rowing techniques and also enjoy and accomplish a good “row” on those first few
times out. The following is a common sense guide to setting up your shell. Read this before you get
into the advanced sections on rigging.
To keep things simple, there are three basic adjustments you need to make on your shell before
attempting to row it.
A. The height of the riggers.
B. The “button” adjustments on the oars.
C. The foot assembly adjustment.
YOUR FIRST TIME
RIGGER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
The height of your oarlock off of the water is important in order to pull the oar comfortably towards your
solar plexus muscle — not high towards your chest — and not too low towards your navel. Rigger
height is also adjusted left hand over right so as to keep your hands from colliding. Further height
changes are sometimes made to accommodate rougher water conditions.
Your shell has been pre-adjusted for the average height/weight oarsman and average water conditions
at the factory. We suggest that you try this first several times before adjusting the riggers’ height. If your
shell was delivered unrigged, follow these simple instructions:
Heritage: Simply loosen the bracket handle enough to see a few threads, and drop the rigger in. Press
down to get it all the way in.
All Wing Shells: Your attachment knobs are in your storage bag. Start all three before tightening any.
Use the upper holes on the wing (the ones making the wing lower to the water)
Sea shell double:
A.
Leave all plastic shims on the rigger bolts, and remove only the stainless steel
nuts and washers. The plastic shim sets the height and protects the sides of the
shell.
B.
Slide your rigger onto the upper set of holes.
C.
Snug the nuts and washers... just “spark plug tight”. There is no need to tighten
the systems too much
Need illustration
Need illustration
11
FINE TUNING YOUR RIGGER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS
After you are comfortable with your shell and have a feel for rowing in the factory settings, you may
want to adjust the rigger height off the water to better match your body size and water conditions. You
can adjust the height up to three different ways depending on which shell model you purchased.
Needs illustration
1. ALL MODELS: You can move the small white washers that are under the oarlock to
above the oarlock.
2. WING MODEL SHELLS
In RARE cases, a rower might want the rigger much higher, such as ocean
rowing. This is done by attaching the Wing to the shell using the other set of holes in the rigger base
plate for a little more up/down adjustment. Note that when you do this, a small gap is created between
the Wing and the shell. There is a black rubber washer on the mounting knobs that can be slipped into
this space.
3. SEASHELL ( FOR ADVANCED ROWERS ONLY) For a large change in height, you can add or flip
plastic wedges on the side of the shell under the rigger plate. NOTE: This is advanced
rigging. Be sure to note the factory position of all wedges before changing any in case
you need to go back to square one. Also, there should always be at least one wedge in
place to protect the boat.
In other words, placing the washer fat side up
Placing the washer fat side down
lowers the rigger.
angles the rigger upward.
Placing two washer opposite each other leaves the rigger in neutral…
but still protects the shell.
IMPORTANT TIPS
1.
When raising/lowering riggers you need to maintain a 1/4” to 3/4” left over right
(See rigger stick chart on page 8).
OAR BUTTON ADJUSTMENT
The next thing to set up is the button on each oars which needs to be located somewhere along the
sleeve on each oar shaft. This adjustment is made so the oar grips, or more specifically, the hands,
come directly one on top of the other during the overlap. The best position for beginners is wrist directly
over wrist which measures to a 3 — 5” overlap of the oar grips. Advanced rowers use slightly more of
an overlap — about 5 — 7” grip over grip.
12
THE FOOT ASSEMBLY ADJUSTMENT
This adjustment is made for the length of your legs and how it affects your posture during the rowing
sequence. Each individual who rows your shell should make this adjustment:
1.
Set the shell in the water.
2.
Sit down in the shell and slide the body back until your legs are fully extended straight.
3
At this point, look or feel behind you to see if your seat is touching or hitting the end of the track.
If it is, YOU ARE TOO FAR FORWARD IN THE SHELL. Move the foot. assembly as from you or
towards the stern of the shell.
4.
RULE OF THUMB: Keeping the legs straight, bring the oars in towards the body. With a proper
rowing grip, thumbs over the end of the grip, the thumb should just graze your stomach or your
shirt. If the hands are hitting the stomach, YOU ARE TOO FAR BACKWARDS IN THE SHELL.
Move the foot assembly towards you or towards the bow of the shell.
NOTE: Advanced rowers adjust for a 2 to 3 inch gap between their thumbs and shirt. We teach this
grazing method as a reminder for your hands to row past your body. For beginners, the area past your
body is also known as “No Man’s Land”; a place where novices lose their stability and end up
swimming. We highly suggest you start with the grazing method and grow into the 2 to 3” gap with time.
These three adjustments are very simple to set up, and if they are done correctly, they will encourage
proper rowing techniques that first day out. It is smart to memorize the RULES OF THUMB so you can
check them each time you row. Once again, they are:
RULE #1: The left rigger should be 1/4” to 3/4”above the right or vice versa
RULE #2: Both hands should land about 1-2” above the navel at the end of the stroke.
RULE #3: The middle knuckle should be directly over the center of the shell with each proper grip which
will give you a wrist over wrist overlap.
RULE #4: With your legs extended, your seat should not hit the end of the track, and your thumbs
should just graze your shirt to remind you...”End of Stroke, stay out of ”No Man’s Land”.
NOTE: Your shell has been pre-heightened and fitted at the before being shipped to you. It was set for
left over right rowing, and the height was set for a normal size rower (5’8” to 5’lO”) under normal water
conditions (3 -6” chop). You will find the shell with the wedges and washers attached. We ask that you
simply apply the rigging to whatever sequence of wedges found on the shell, and row it there. This will
give you a starting paint to work from, then add or delete wedges as needed. (See rigger stick chart on
page 8)
With your a adjustments made and correctly checked, you are now ready for Lesson One…
HAPPY ROWING !!!
13
LESSON ONE
THE FUNDAMENTALS OF ROWING
I. SAFETY
1.
Can you swim? (Life vest)
2.
If you capsize, STAY WITH THE SHELL!! It is equipped with
positive floatation. You are more easily seen as a larger object.
3.
Check all nuts and bolts — be sure everything is tight and secure.
4.
Carry a life preserver with you at all times — Coast Guard
regulations require one per person.
II. ADJUSTMENTS – (See “Beginners’ Guide to Setting up”)
FOR NEW EQUIPMENT
1.
Left over right rigging height. Due to left hand overlapping the right, the left
rigger should be higher off the water than the right. Check with a rigger stick.
Left should be ¼” - ¾” higher than the right.
2.
Setting the buttons on the oars - to be sure the hands overlap, one directly on
top of the other - check with the oar in the rigger; grip over bottom keel.
FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL
1.
Rigger height off the water - hands should feather just above your navel - set
by the wedges between rigger and shell and the space washers on the oarlock
pin.
2.
Foot assembly adjustment — for length of each rower’s legs —set so each
rower does not hit the end of the seat track when fully extended and thumb
grazes stomach when feathering.
14
I I I. FUNDAMENTALS
FOUR BASIC TECHNIQUES
1.
2.
3.
GETTING IN AND OUT OF THE SHELL:
a)
Be sure oarlocks point towards shell when placing oar in lock.
b)
Be sure oar spins freely.
c)
Have oars in ready position before entering (grip over grip)
d)
Get down in shell quickly, don’t stand up.
e)
Before strapping in the feet, check foot assembly adjustment.
BALANCING THE SHELL:
a)
Put a hand around each grip; thumb over end of grip.
b)
Split oars one up, one down (with blades floating on water) to feel the “tippiness”
of the shell.
c)
Lock oar grips — as if wrists were tied behind your back - with blades on water
- then try to rock the shell. This will demonstrate the speed of controlling the
stability of the shell and how effectively it works. (Important step in gaining
confidence and the attention of your student!)
d)
This is the safety or panic button — Use the phrase “tie your wrists”.
THE ROWING STROKE:
a)
We must first instill two new habits:
1.
A straight, level stroke vs. roly-poly leave the blades on the water’s
surface, and let them float.
2.
Pushing with legs instead of pulling with arms; leave the elbows locked,
and drive with the legs.
15
b)
c)
Go through the sequence of events.
1.
Square or Catch - Knees together, arms straight, blades perpendicular,
wrists flat, thumbs over end, blades 3/4 under surface of the water.
RELAX!
2.
Drive - Begin with the legs, keep elbows locked, drop shoulders, finish
with arms - straight level stroke. HINT: Use a 4 count - first three - legs,
last one — arms.
3.
Feather - At the end of the drive (hands in front of stomach, not beyond
in “No Man’s Land”, you turn your wrists down or “knuckles up”. Blades
should exit water and immediately float on the surface. HINT: Relax the
grip and upper body. Simply turn the wrists — use the phrase “flick and
float”.
4.
Return/Recover - Glide the blades. “ski on the water”, back away from
the body, hands lead the way, lock elbows with arms straight before
sliding the body, return to square position. HINT: Keep the return slow
and relaxed giving the shell more time to glide without checking, body
moving In opposite direction of the shell.
OTHER HINTS:
1.
Feel the water, sensing the blades as if they were your hands floating
and driving.
2.
Relax the grip and drop the shoulders during the drive. Let the legs do
the work especially during the start of the drive.
3.
Look over your shoulders when the grips overlap during the drive —
safest time to navigate.
4.
In case of trouble, “tie your wrists”, stop for a moment, take a deep
breath, then start over from the square position.
5.
Never drive hard when the shell is in a stationary position. This could
damage the shell or the rower’s lower back; ease into the momentum..
6.
Give yourself time to understand and acclimate to rowing. You are
learning something new for the first time. When rushed, the “mind vs.
body” can frustrate or instill poor habits in any beginner. You will learn
better by the sense of feeling rather than theory.
Example: Many beginners think that the shell is moved by pulling the oars rather
than pushing the body. To break this mental habit, one should concentrate on
dragging the oars at the beginning of each drive... locking only the elbow joint
not the shoulder. The sensation one should feel is as if the arms are being
pulled out of the shoulder sockets. Practice this habit slowly to give the body
time to make this sensation a habit.
7. RELAX!
RELAX!
RELAX!
16
4. TURNING THE SHELL:
a) Easy Method:
1.
Sit stationary with knees slightly bent.
2.
Lay or lock one oar grip against one knee to stabilize the shell.
3.
Use a tiny stroke with the other oar to turn the shell. Do not slide on the
seat. You are to use an arm pull only. HINT: Use tiny strokes with a
relaxed grip. Don’t worry about sliding - this method turns the shell in an
arc and it requires more time and space to maneuver.
b) Effective Method
1.
Sit stationary with knees slightly bent.
2.
Go to square position as in a normal stroke.
3.
Turn one blade flat on the water and re-grip that blade so both wrists are
flat.
4.
Begin a normal stroke sequence pulling both oars towards the body.
Notice one blade is pulling water while the other is floating.
5.
Feather both blades wrist down and knuckles up. Notice the pulling
blade is now flat, and the flat blade is now cupped in reverse.
6.
Return the blades to a stiff arm position. Notice the blade cupped in
reverse will now push water while the other blade will float or stabilize
the shell. HINT: Use tiny strokes, arms only, do not worry about sliding
on seat.
** RELAX the grips, allow them to float on surface,
** This method will turn the shell “on a dime”, and it is very effective in
cramped quarters or windy conditions.
17
I.V. OTHER TECHNIQUES
1.
2.
The lead drag turn is used when turning the shell while continuing to
keep up the stroke, to follow the allotted course, or to work out in a
confined area.
a)
Decide which way to turn as the opposite side oar will control the
turn.
b)
In the drive position, rather than both wrists overlapping, one
hand will lead ahead of the other. That hand is prematurely
breaking the elbow lock and pulling the shell to one side while the
other hand is continuing to drag.
c)
Depending on the degree of turn required, the leading hand will
break early or late along with pulling hard or soft. HINT: Slow
down the pace. Keep the hands on the level plane because the
shell has a tendency to lean towards the dragging oar. Do not let
the oars split apart.
Rowing in Reverse is used when backing out of trouble or coming to
shore or dock.
a)
Turn the shell so that the stern is facing in the direction of where
you need to go.
b)
Reverse both blades so they are cupped towards the bow
c)
Reverse the action of a normal stroke so you will push, water on
the return. Turn the wrists up and knuckles down at the catch and
float the blades on the drive. HINT: Keep the strokes small, relax
the grip, and allow the blades to float.
18
V. DRILLS USED TO CORRECT PROBLEMS
1.
PROBLEM: Rower wants to pull rather than push the shell.
DRILL: “Stiff Arm” Drill
2.
a)
Go to the catch position.
b)
Lock the elbows and prepare to keep them locked’
c)
Drive the shell with the legs
d)
When the legs are fully extended, stop the drive, feather the oars,
and return
e)
Do not allow the elbows to unlock.
f)
Concentrate on driving with the legs.
PROBLEM: Rower can’t keep the oars level through the drive.
DRILL: “stiff Leg” Drill
a)
Keep the ‘body in a stationary position with legs slightly bent.
b)
Send the arms to the catch position.
c)
Row a normal stroke with the arms only, and do not slide the
seat.
d)
Work on relaxing the grips and keeping the hands level with the
water.
e)
Although this is using an incorrect habit of a pull vs. push drive, it
does help to correct the problem.
19
VI. OTHER TIPS
If you are a novice at rowing a shell, here are a few tips to keep you dry and to help you develop a
professional style.
A. Remember to hang on to your oars at all times, and you will greatly reduce the probability of
getting wet!
B You can achieve improved performance as you learn with shorter slower strokes Remember to
RELAX’
C. Check all ‘adjustments, and ‘tighten all bolts before leaving the shore. You will be glad you did.
D If by some freak of nature you happen to flip the boat, here are some tips:
1.
Don’t fight it! Roll out of the shell quickly. This will keep your craft afloat whilst taking in
only a small amount of water.
2.
If possible, paddle the craft to the shoreline before attempting to climb back in. If you
are too far out, bring the oars to the ready position (grip to grip); and tie the grips
together with a foot strap. By doing this, you will stabilize the shell.
Carefully enter the shell from the side (SEASHELL, RIVERSHELL) or over side (PRO AM, SPRINT,
OLYMPUS) by lying perpendicular to the craft belly over the center of the cockpit.
Staying low, begin to slide your legs into the craft towards the foot assembly.
Be sure to keep your weight distributed evenly and only on the sections of the shell that can handle
your weight.
Once you are in the shell, grab the oars and return to your proper rowing position.
REMEMBER TO READ THE WARNING SECTION ON PAGE 2 REGARDING RE-ENTRY INTO
YOUR SHELL.
HINT: Keep an elastic tennis wristband on one of the oar shafts at all times. It works as a great “wrap
around” for the grips should you flip the shell because you’ll need both hands free to stabilize the shell.
20
E. LAUNCHING FROM A DOCK
1.
Slide the shell off the well-padded end of the dock, stern first. To save time, attach the
oars in the oarlocks and lay the blades on the bow decking, one over the other.
IMPORTANT: Carpet or pad the edge of’ the dock 3” to 4’ wide to prevent damage to
the hull.
2.
Bring the shell along side until the corner of the dock comes up to the corner of where
the rigger is attached to the shell. (See diagram)
3.
Reach out and kick both oar blades back into the water, gliding them around until both
oar grips overlap.
4. With one hand grabbing the grips together and the other holding the dock, slowly climb
down into the shell. Notice the blades are providing stability while entering the shell because
they are both locked on the surface.
5.
Once you are in the shell, gently push the craft away fun,,, the dock until you float far
enough away to work the oars.
F. Be sure you allow your shell to breathe when it is not in use. The sealed craft emits fumes
when going through temperature changes and the like.
IMPORTANT: Loosen the drain plugs and porthole after each use and when storing the craft.
For your protection, the PRO AM and the OLYMPUS have a breather hole located in each top
foot track should you forget to loosen the drain plug.
G.
Your shell is a precision craft and it should be handled with personal care at all times. It
can fine tuned to your exact height, weight, and rowing ability. Please use care in handling,
storing, and transporting your shell. It should be washed down after each use and properly
stored. The sculling oars should also be handled as delicate instruments and cleaned after
each use. Start a routine clean up and maintenance check after each row. This will ensure a
lifetime of pleasure and performance from your LITTLE RIVER shell.
21
CATCH, DRIVE, FEATHER, RECOVER:
A Rowing Primer
By John Peinert
Welcome to the sport of
rowing, or sculling. It is one of the
most rewarding and enjoyable of
all water sports, as well as being
a complete exercise and an
efficient means of transportation.
As with any new activity,
however, you need a little patience at the start. Instruction
from an experienced sculler is the
best way to learn the sport, but in
the absence of such advice, this
guide, and others like it, will help
you get started.
Some words of advice to take
on the water with you: Because
rowing boats are built for speed,
they are narrow and until you
become used to handling them,
can easily tip over. You should
start learning to row only when
the water is warm, and it’s always
wise to have another person
present to watch out for you and
to help with the instructions. If you
are not a good swimmer, wear an
approved life vest. It you capsize,
do not leave the boat. Stay with it
and use the boat, the oars, or
both as flotation devices to help
you swim ashore. You will
probably need a couple of outings
before you feel comfortable with
rowing a shell; so avoid rowing
too fast in the beginning. Take
your time with the techniques,
relax, and enjoy your new sport.
Carrying the Equipment
Recreational shells are light
and easily carried by two people,
one at each end, or by one
person from the side, canoefashion. The oar blades are thin
and somewhat fragile. Always
carry the oars with the blades in
front of you to reduce the chances
of hitting anything with them. Use
care when putting them down or
into the boat, and when leaving
Top to bottom: correct grip for drive,
wrist flat. Incorrect grip. Note
arched wrist. The twist. Rotate the
oar handle toward you, opening
your grip. Correct position of hand.
The
blade
is feathered
flat. will
the oar
dock
or shore.
The seat
stay in the boat when you carry it
short distances, but when you
transport the shell atop your car
or truck, you should remove the
seat.
Getting In and Out of the Boat
After you have placed the boat
in the water, put the oars in the
oarlocks. Place the thin part of the
oar shaft (near the blade) into
the lock, then slide the oar out
until the button contacts the lock.
Now to get into the boat, hold
both oar grips with one hand.
Make sure that the buttons are
out against the locks, the oar
blades are flat (spoon-side up),
and the oars are perpendicular to
the boat. Place your other hand
on a convenient edge of the boat
(usually the gunwale), place one
foot on the non-slip surface
between the tracks, and step in.
As you step in, the oars should
be in front of you (to the stem)
and the seat behind you (to the
bow). If the seat is out of position,
sit on the platform and adjust
yourself onto it. After sitting down,
place your feet under the loops of
the foot-board and adjust the
straps to be just snug. In order to
adjust the straps without rocking
the boat or tipping it over, bring
both oar handles into your armpits. With the blades resting flat
on the water, extend your arms
over the handles and roll forward
on the seat so that the oar
handles are positioned between
your thighs and arms.
You have to maintain control
over both oar handles at all times
to prevent capsizing. The oar
blades act as outriggers, and they
will keep the boat upright as long
as you keep your hold on the
grips. Only when you let go of
one of the oars or turn it
completely parallel to the boat
can you capsize.
Rowing
You will find pushing off easier
if the boat is parallel to the dock
or the shore. Remember to keep
the oars relatively perpendicular
to the boat and to avoid shipping
the oars as you would in a beam
ier fixed-seat rowboat.
If you embark from the shore,
you can probably just row away,
but be sure to keep the oar
blades from hitting the bottom. If
you leave from a dock, hold onto
the oar handles with one hand
and push off with the other. Your
push may not get you far enough
away from the dock to begin
rowing; so lean away from the
You will find it easier to start
rowing without using the sliding
seat. Simply sit with your legs down
flat and row with your arms and
upper body swing until you become
accustomed to feathering. Now pull
on the oar handles. At the end of
this drive stroke, you want to
feather the oar blades flat as you
take the blades out of the water. If
you turn the blades flat too soon
(while still pulling on the oars), they
will knife deeply into the water; if
turned too late, they will be harder
to release from the water.
To feather the oar blades flat, give
a relaxed twist to the handles. Drop
your wrists slightly while you roll the
handles toward your chest. At the
same time, let the oar shafts drop
flat into the oarlocks and let the
handles roll out more from under
22
dock a little, onto the outside oar
blade and carefully pull the inside
towards you until you can place
the blade on the edge of the dock
and push away.
rowing techniques, a word about
returning to the dock. Approach
slowly and at an angle. Just as
the blade is close to hitting the
dock, lean away onto the outside
blade. This will cause the boat to
turn parallel to the dock as it
comes in, and it will enable you to
raise the inside oar onto the dock.
Practice this maneuver a couple
of times away from the dock.
Begin rowing from the basic rest
position; the most comfortable
position in which to sit when not
moving. Sit squarely on the seat,
feet under the straps, knees down
so that the backs of your calves
touch the boat, one hand on each
oar, the oar handles just in front of
you over your thighs, oar blades
flat on the water concave side up.
Still sitting in the rest position,
change your grip on the oar
handles for the drive. Your fingers
should be loosely wrapped
around the handles with your
thumbs across the ends of them.
Use your thumbs to press lightly
outwards at all times to keep the
buttons in contact with the
oarlocks. Your wrists should be
relatively flat. If they are arched
up or down, you will have trouble
with the feathering, and your
forearms will quickly tire. The oar
blades should be perpendicular to
the water and floating, just
covered. The concave side of the
blades should point toward the
stern.
Before you get into the actual
your fingers. The blades will not go
completely flat; the front edge is
slightly higher than the back edge
to help keep them from digging into
the water during recovery.
Return the blades to the catch
position. To move the blades back
to vertical for the catch, merely
squeeze your fingers toward your
palms, rolling the oar blades
forward. Return your wrists to the
flat position.
Feather the blades at the
following points in the stroke:
during recovery when they are held
flat and a couple of inches off the
water; just before the catch when
they are returned to vertical for the
drive.
The oar handles overlap in the
middle of the recovery and drive.
The starboard (your left as you sit
in the boat) oarlock is set slightly
higher than the port, and you will
want to row with your left hand
slightly higher than your right. In the
middle of the stroke, the starboard
handle will be directly over the port
handle.
To row using the sliding seat,
start at the rest position. Extend
your arms straight toward the stem,
swing your upper body toward the
stern, then roll the seat as far
toward the stem as is comfortable.
Feather the blades to the vertical
position and place them into the
water as you reach your full
extension. Your knees should stay
close together so that they come up
either under your armpits or in front
of your chest.
You accomplish the first half of
the drive by a push of your legs and
a simultaneous swing toward the
bow with your torso. Keep your
arms straight. Only when your legs
are fully extended do you begin to
pull in on the oars with your arms.
At the same time, finish the swing of
your upper body to a position about
ten degrees past vertical. Your
elbows should hang down in a
relaxed position so that they will
pass closely by your torso as you
finish the stroke.
Problems You Might Have and
How to Correct Them
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
1.It is hard to release the blades
from the water at the end of the
drive.
You may have the blades too deep
in the water (they should be just
covered), or you may be feathering
them too soon or too late. Turn the
blades flat just as you release them
from the water.
2.The oar handles hit your knees on
recovery.
You should keep your legs
extended and your knees down until
your arms are fully extended and
your upper body has swung toward
the stern. At that point the oar
handles are over your shins, clear
of your knees, and you can begin to
roll the seat toward the stern.
You may be trying to keep the
blades to far off the water,, which
will place the handles too low. Keep
the blades only a couple of inches
off the water.
Raise the oarlocks a little.
3.Your forearms get tired.
Try a more relaxed grip on the oar
handles.
Be sure your wrists are flat as you
pull through the drive.
Be sure you have lubricated the oar
sleeves and buttons with
Crisco or Vaseline. The oars will
turn more easily in the locks.
4.The seat binds and doesn’t roll
23
easily.
• Be sure you are sitting in the
middle of the seat and not twisting
as you roll back and forth.
• The seat wheels might need oiling.
5.It is hard to keep the blades from
diving too deep on the drive.
• You are probably not turning the
blades all the way to vertical before
putting them into the water at the
catch. Be sure grip on the oar
handles is relaxed. Be sure the
blades are vertical before catching
the water; relax your grip as you
pull so that the flat of the oar shafts
align themselves with the flat of the
oarlocks.
6.It is hard to keep the boat level
while rowing.
• Be sure to keep your body
balanced over the center of the
boat.
• Work on a smooth release so that
you start your recovery on an even
keel.
• Be sure to keep the oar handles
moving on4~onstant level; moving
the handles up and down affects
the balance of the boat.
Although this guide will help you
get started, experience is the best
teacher. After a couple of hours on
the water, a lot of what I’ve
discussed will be second nature,
and you’ll find a whole new sackfull of excuses for going rowing.
As the oars swing through and
the grips point at your sides, lightly
press down on the handles and
simultaneously feather the blades
flat. When the blades are out of the
water at the end of the drive,
recover by straightening your arms
(remember to keep your left hand
over your right) and moving the
grips toward the stem on a level
path.
As your arms straighten, let your
upper body swing toward the stem.
When the oar handles are past
your knees, begin rolling the seat
toward the stern, keeping your
arms straight and your upper body
reaching for the next catch. Just
before getting to your full reach,
turn the blades to vertical and
prepare to let them lightly drop into
the water. Lower the blades into the
water as you stop rolling on the
seat. Begin pushing off for the next
drive.
You might find balancing the
boat easier if you let the oar blades
act as outriggers; by letting them
skim the water’s surface on
recovery. You will soon discover,
however, that you can row more
smoothly, especially in choppy
water, if you keep them a couple of
inches off the surface.
24
25
26
.
27
ADVANCED RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
For over a decade, LITTLE RIVER MARINE has been the leader in innovative
design with the customer in mind. Our rigging has changed and progressed to a
point where adjustments are rarely necessary and little maintenance is required.
Attachment and adjustments are simple tasks completed in a few minutes. The
following instructions will provide you with all the information necessary to fine tune
your shell to your abilities and various rowing conditions.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS
One 7/16” combination wrench
One 6” crescent wrench
One 3/8” NUT DRIVER
One small regular screwdriver
IDENTIFICATION CODES
Stamped on the underside of each oarlock mounting block are letters which designate
the appropriate rowing stations.
SS — heritage stern, starboard (rowers left hand)
SP- Heritage stern, port (rowers right hand)
BCS- Heritage bow or Center, starboard
BCP- Heritage bow or center, port
SO - Seashell Double (Bow & Center Positions)
SOS - Seashell Double (Stern Position)
Reg – Regatta Wing
P - Pro Am 25 and Pro AM Elite Wing
CA – Cambridge Wing
O – Olympus Wing
The following diagrams illustrate the different wedge combinations FOR THE SEA SHELL
DOUBLE ONLY and their effect in changing the height.
A 1. One Down - This is the standard position on all models for
the average size oarsman in fairly calm waters.
A1
A2
A3
A 2. Off Set - (One up and one down) - Using the extra wedge
washer, place it upside down and opposite to the standard
“one down” washer. This raises the height of the oarlock
¾” from the standard position.
A 3. One Up - By reversing the single wedge washer, you can
raise the height of the oar ½” from the standard position.
A 4. Double Up - Both wedge washers are upside down. This
position is used only in severe choppy water. Using the
wedges as illustrated will raise the height off the oar lock 2 ¼”.
.
28
A4
A 5. Double Down – By using the wedges as shown, the height
of oarlock will be lowered 1 ½” from the standard position.
A5
NOTE: You may still accommodate a proper stroke by switching your riggers from
the standard position (Diagram Al to A2, A3, A4, or A5 as your rowing conditions
become choppier or as conditions warrant a change. This adjustment allows for
higher clearance of the oar blades over the chop on the return stroke.
As you can see, there are several wedge combinations you can use to adjust the
height of the oarlock. Choose the proper combination that allows you to complete
the stroke pulling at the waist (slightly above the navel). If you wish to adjust the height less than 3/4” (the change in one wedge position),
use the white shim washer located directly under the oarlock. Each washer allows
you to change the height 3/16” at a time.
SEA SHELL DOOUBLERIGGER ATTACHMENT
Remove the 1/4” nuts and both stainless steel washers, and place the rigger on the
rigger bolts with desired wedge configuration. Replace stainless steel washers and
nuts, and tighten until its snug.
NOTE: Be sure to check the nuts for tightness each time you row. This ensures
proper rowing techniques and eliminates the potential for damage to the shell.
ALL BOATS
PITCH ATTACHMENT
.
Your rigging is adjusted so that the pitch of the oar blade enters the water at 7°. As you pull through
the stroke, it changes gradually until the blade exits the water at 3°. This allows the blade to dive easily
into the water, and it assists the oarsman in getting the oar blade out of the water.
The oar lock pin is preset at 2° laterally. The oarlock has a built in 5° vertical pitch. The result is a 7°
pitch at the catch, 5° midway through the stroke, and 3° upon completion of the stroke.
NOTE: Each height adjustment of 3/4” results in a 1° lateral pitch change. One degree will not be very
noticeable. If you must raise the height more than 3/4” and want to maintain the 2° lateral pitch:
UNIVERSAL PITCH (PATENT Pending)
Universal pitch is standard on CAMBRIDGE, PRO AM 25, PRO AM ELI-TE, and OLYMPUS. This is
the simplest and most accurate pitch adjustment on the market.
Once your rigger height has been established, you can set your pitch exactly the way you like with this
system. You will need a pitchmeter, available from LRMC, to adjust this.
Step 1: Establish rigger height to the height you prefer.
29
Step 2: Level the shell fore/aft and side to
side using a standard builder’s level.
Step 3: Loosen the four adjustment bolts around the pin.
Step 4: With your pitchmeter firmly clamped in the center of the oarlock, adjust the screws to set
pitch at 7 /5 /3 (or how you prefer it) at the catch, drive, and recovery. Snug slightly and
double check, then snug firmly.
For further information on the oar lock pitch, consult the pitch meter’s operating instructions.
SPREAD ADJUSTMENT
Spread refers to the distance from one oarlock pin to the other. By moving the oar locks in, you
shorten your stroke providing more strokes per minute and decreasing your stability to some degree.
The innermost mounting positions are for increased pace and speed and for more accomplished
oarsmen. THIS IS A VERY UNCOMMON ADJUSTMENT FOR RECREATIONAL ROWERS.
30
SEQUENCE OF OARLOCK & HARDWARE
lock nut
the lock nut will fit tight
against the sleeve
thin wall tall
plastic washer
tube of sleeve
aluminum
Note: all the plastic
washers and oarlock slide
over the sleeve and spin
freely
6
0
I
Note: to adjust the height
remove the thick wall
washers from below and
place above the oarlock.
The sleeve will be
tight against the black
plate
4-6 thick wall
plastic washers
(used to adjust the
height
Universal Pitch Tighten / loosen 4
bolts to change
rigger
31
CONCEPT II OARLOCKS
• The shape is designed for easy oar handling with positive
stable positioning on both drive and recovery.
• Replaceable bushings for pitch adjustment and pin fit.
‘
a
.
• Unbreakable “Supertough” nylon.
• Stainless steel gate.
• Meets FISA standards for oarlock turning diameter.
Pin diameter must be specified at time of
order. Different colored bushings fit different
pin diameters as shown in the table below.
Bushing Color
Black
Blue
White
Sweep
9/16”
13mm
½”
Scull
½” (& adapter)
13mm
7/16”
5” – 3”
Bushings
Qty. 4
6” – 2”
Bushings
Qty. 4
7” – 1”
Bushings
Qty. 4
*Adapter for “crescent” type scull backstand fits into
black ½” scull bushing.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE
BUSHINGS TO ADJUST PITCH
Adjust oarlock pitch from 1 to 7
degrees by selecting two bushings
with the desired pitch imprinted and
inserting them in opposite directions as
shown in the drawing. (If replacing
existing oarlocks,
keep in mind that
B
u
most non-adjustable
oarlocks have a
s of 4 degrees.)
built-in pitch
h
i
n
g
C
o
l
o
r
0
4” – 4”
Bushings
Qty. 4
32
Bow
a
Toweye
Vinyl
Rubrail
Starboard
Integral
Coaming
Point
Splashboard or Coaming
Oarlock & Pin
Rigger Mainstay
Seat Tracks
Rigger Support Stay
Cockpit Area
Removable Seatbox
Adjustable Foot Tracks
(3 per station)
Collar or Sleeve
Porthole Cover
w/ Flapbag
Foot Assembly
(heelcups, footplate, footbars)
Oarblade
Reinforced
Fiberglass Hull
Port
Stern
33
SPRINT AND GUIDEBOAT INSTRUCTION SUPPLEMENT
Your SPRINT ROW WING can be mounted in two positions
- For rowing as a single, the ROW WING is mounted in the extreme rear stern of the shell.
- For rowing as a single with a passenger, the ROW WJNG is mounted in the extreme
front-bow of the shell.
Use only the lower holes (2&4), not 1 and 3 when installing the foot pads. See diagram in instructions.
This prevents the wooden foot plate from touching the bottom of the boat.
Make sure the ROW WING is securely fastened in the cockpit by using the alien bolts. Loss of the
ROW WING will result if it is not fastened securely!
WARNING! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS!
Follow all instructions while assembling the ROW WING.
Make sure the rubber collars on the wing match up with the gunnel on the shell.
WARNING!!! When storing the shell outside, store the shell upside down only! This is to prevent water
from filling up the inside cockpit, which could cause weight damage.
AI
~~
~
~
~
~,
.
34
Sample Stretching Exercises
Fig. 1 TRICEPS
Fig. 2 POSTERIOR (BACK) OF THE SHOULDER
Reach over your head
and gently pull your elbow
with your opposite hand.
Fig. 3 LOWER BACK
Lying on your back with your knees bent up, bring both
knees to your chest and gently stretch by grasping the
legs BEHIND the knees with your arms, and hold.
Pull one arm across the front
of your body gently and hold.
Fig. 4 QUADRICEPS
Stand facing the wall, approximately 2 to 3 feet away from it.
Place the leg to be stretched behind the other, with the back
foot rotated inward. With hands against the wall, lean forward,
keeping back straight and back heel flat on the ground. Perform
with back knee straight, then slightly bent. -
35
Fig. 5 HAMSTRINGS
Prop one foot on a step and bend
forward toward your toes. The
supporting leg (the one on the
floor) should be rotated inward.
Fig. 6 CALF
Stand facing the wall, approximately 2 to 3 feet away from it.
Place the leg to be stretched behind the other, with the back foot
rotated inward. With the hands against the wall, lean forward,
keeping back straight and back heel flat on the ground. Perform
with back knee straight, then slightly bent.
Fig. 7 BUTTOCKS AND UPPER BACK
Fig. 8 UPPER BACK
From a standing position, squat down with feet flat and toes
pointed out at a 15-degree angle. Heels should be four to 12 inches
apart. Arms should be fully extended while the hands grasp a pole
or rail for support.
Starting position as in Fig. 7, however, do not bend knees
past 45 degrees. This activity will stretch the upper back
without stressing the knee joints.
36
MAINTENANCE SUGGESTIONS
We’ve designed all of our Shells and Dory’s to be very simple to maintain; following a few “common
sense” rules and a little T. L.C. will ensure many happy days of rowing. This is the golden rule you
should remember on a daily basis:
“KEEP IT CLEAN; KEEP IT DRY, KEEP IT COVERED...”
KEEP IT CLEAN:
Cleaning your craft can be a 5-10 minute job, as long as you do it often. All the parts and hardware are
either stainless steel or anodized aluminum, so you can use it in both salt or fresh water. After rowing
in salt or “brackish, simply HOSE OFF ALL METAL PARTS.
•
Although it’s not mandatory, after rowing and the boat is still wet, WIPE DOWN THE BOAT
WITH A DRY TOWEL, both hull and deck. This helps reduce a buildup of dirt, film or water
lines.
•
Every so often (once a month..) you should give your boat a more thorough cleaning. WASH
THE ENTIRE BOAT WITH SOAP AND WATER, using most any liquid cleaning product.
“Softscrub” will work on tough dirt; acetone or mineral spirits will work on stains...
NOTE: Don’t get acetone on any plastic part, striping, or sticker — it will “melt” them.
•
Over time grit and grease can build up in the seat tracks. Clean them by RUBBING A DRY
TOWEL DOWN EACH TRACK, or wetting the towel with a degreaser. Also, we do not
recommend using a lubricant or silicone in the tracks (or oarlocks); this would only attract more
sand and grit...
•
We also recommend you WAX THE FIBERGLASS HULL AND DECK once or twice a year.
Use a good quality “fiberglass” wax (not car wax, which is for metal...) some now even have
“ultraviolet resistors” for better protection from the sun. A polymer-based product is also
beneficial, where it adds a thin “dear coat” to the hull making it a lot easier to keep clean.
KEEP IT DRY:
•
A very important part of maintaining your shell is TO VENTILATE THE HULL when it’s not in
the water. AFTER each row, you should UNSCREW BOTH DRAIN PLUGS on the deck and
allow the craft to “breathe” (the liner plug on the transom of the Dory should be opened at least
once a week...). This eliminates any buildup of condensation or undue water, and will keep the
integrity (of the superstructure) intact. Porthole covers can also be opened during longer
periods of non-use.
•
DO NOT STORE YOUR CRAFT IN THE WATER for any length of time. Since there are no
bottom protectants, this would damage the gelcoat over time. It’s OK to leave it in for an hour
or two, but no longer...
I
37

When storing the Shell OUTSIDE, always TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN so it can shed any
potential rainfall. The Dory can be stored either way; if RIGHT SIDE UP, be sure to PULL THE
COCKPIT DRAINPLUG, even with the boat covered, due to “Murphy’s Law”...
 Heritage water in the bilge
Between the inner and outer liner is a bilge. Like a powerboat, this bilge may collect water from minute
passageways. Check it regularly:
You can get the water out by pulling out the screw and rubber stopper in the wineglass transom. Simply loosen the
screw 1/2 inch and then use the exposed screw as a hand hold to wiggle the rubber gasket out, then tip the boat.
There are several possible places for a leak into the liner your boat, the inside cockpit liner drain plug, and the
outside wineglass transom drain plug, around screws. It is also possible to get water inside the liner around the big
porthole storage port. This usually only occurs if standing water in the cockpit is allowed to touch the porthole, such
as after a rainstorm, and the bow is lower than the stern.
It is possible to cause a leak by pulling the boat over an edge of a dock. This puts a load on the glue holding the
inside liner to the outside liner, at the cockpit liner. If the water didn't come in through the storage port, this is the
most likely place for a leak.
A test can be done to see if the water is getting in at the cockpit drain hole, the most common place. First,
empty any water from the hull as earlier described. Then, from the outside, simply cover the cockpit drain hole with
2-inch clear packing tape or duct tape. This will serve as a temporary "plug" over this area. Then row far a while and
then recheck the transom plug for new water. If none, this is the source of the leak (if it didn't come in the porthole).
To repack a cockpit drain plug leak:
1. Remove the plastic drain plug housing
2. Scrape away the old silicone sealant.
3. Reseal with quality marine sealant and reinstall the plug. Be generous and don't wipe off much of
the excess. Let dry completely before using the boat.
KEEP IT COVERED
•
The two elements that deteriorate the life expectancy of fiberglass boats are “Water” and
“Sunshine”.
If you plan to leave your Heritage in the water, it should be ordered with an optional “blister
Resistant layer. If you did not get this your boat is not designed to stay more than an
occasional overnight in the water. Shells should never be left in the water over night.
If you plan to store the craft outside in direct sunlight, COVER THE BOAT at all times. (We make
custom-fit canvas covers for each model, which can be looked at as an economical “insurance”
plan). Even a tarp or blanket draped over the hull will protect it from harmful UV rays, which,
overtime, can discolor, fatigue, or breakdown the function of the gelcoat surface.
Other Maintenance “Rules”:
1) Whenever possible, store and transport your Shell UPSIDE DOWN and support it from the
coaming or splashguard around the cockpit, not on the decks. If RIGHT SIDE UP, use a “sling”
device that will conform to the shape of the hull, and space the slings no more than 8-10 feet
apart (in other words, don’t hang the shell from the very tip ends; move in at least 4-5 ft)
2) Proper storage on a dock, in the garage, up along the outside wall of you condo, etc. is always
important.
3) Minor repairs can be done right at home with the help of our home repair kits. If you have small
scratches, cracks or chips in the gelcoat, simply call the factory and give them the proper
colors to match. We also offer a fiberglass patch kit - both come complete with most of the
tools and materials needed to do the job and a detailed step-by-step manual.
38
4) When you’re finished with the row, be sure to store your CARBON parts & oars) inside, or
keep them covered from the elements. It’s also good to wipe them down from time to time.
• To repair scratches or gouges, use a good- ‘exterior’ grade POLYEURATHANE or SPAR
varnish. If they show signs of weathering, you can lightly sand them down (with 220 grit or steel
wool...) and add another coat, but use it “sparingly”.
5) It’s also a good idea to thoroughly clean your “moving parts” (seat wheels and oarlock pins)
especially if you row in dirty or salt water conditions. You should take the oarlocks apart, and
clean each piece removing any grit buildup.
NOTE: To prevent any “salt” corrosion build-up between stainless and aluminum parts simply
unscrew them from time to time, clean and spray with “WD 40” or similar product …(i.e., the
allen bolts that screw through the monorails on Sprints and Dorys; the handles on Dory “swing
out” riggers, the 4 screws that level the bracket under each oarlock, etc.)
6) Should ANYTHING arise that you’re not sure of or you may need some advice on, don’t
hesitate to call our toll free number — we’ll be glad to help in any way we can. (If not, we’ll go
to committee on it, we’ll do lunch, then we’ll have our secretary call yours.. ,HA!...)
Remember the golden rule:
KEEP IT CLEAN, KEEP IT DRY, KEEP IT COVERED
39
SHELL INSURANCE
by
LEONARD, CANTRILL & CLARK
INSURANCE BROKERS & CONSULTANTS
450 N. Narberth Avenue
Narberlh, PA 19072
1-800-SCULLER
Leonard, Cantrill & Clark is the largest insurer of rowing equipment in the world. This program is
available to individuals, schools, and clubs and is recommended by many boat manufacturers. You
can insure your valuable rowing equipment with people who know and understand rowing.
POLICY DESCRIPTION
Equipment — Coverage is offered for rowing shells of all types, kayaks, canoes, training equipment
such as ergometers, and coaching equipment such as launches and motors.
Service — The most compelling reason to insure your boat with us is our knowledge of rowing and
equipment. We have over 75 years of rowing experience in our agency. “We Speak Rowing”
Location — Your equipment is insured anywhere in the continental United Stales and Canada. Special
arrangements are available for overseas situations.
Coverages Provided — The equipment is covered for physical damage in a race, during practice,
when being transported, and while in storage. The policy contains few exclusions.
Rate and Premium — The premium for this program is 4% of the value of the shell(s). There is a flat
$250.00 deductible which will apply on all claims.
No minimum annual premium.
Claims — Most claims can be handled directly by our office. This means that you are dealing with
someone who knows and understands rowing and realizes that a Vespoli is not a type of pasta or that
a bow ball is not a dance.
Local Phone (610) 667-3927 Fax (610) 667-7626 Toll Free 1-800-728-5537
40
HOW TO LOCK UP YOUR ROWING SHELL
LITTLE RIVER MARINE offers a SURELOCK system, which locks a rowing shell to your car without a
padlock or key; or it can be used to padlock a shell to trees or posts. SURELOCK is made of stainless
steel cable construction and is fully padded to guard against scratches. Refer to price list for ordering
information.
DO-IT--YOURSELF INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Take two 12-ft. strands of plastic coated wire or chain as found in bike shops.
2.
Make a large loop at one end large enough to go around the end of the shell but not all
the way through. It should snug up about 3 ft. from each end.
3.
Make a small loop (6”) at the other end. It should be just large enough to put a Master
Lock through it.
4.
Be sure the small loop at both ends meet or overlap near the center of the shell.
5.
Lock both loops to some permanent structure (i.e. ring, tree trunk, post) near the center of
the shell. -
6.
II you are storing the shell outside, be sure the shell is upside down and resting on the
splash guards near the cockpit.
NOTE: A single loop system through the rib would be sufficient for the RIVERSHELL.
41
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CAR RACKS AND STRAPS
This chapter is designed to instruct you on the proper use of car racks and straps. Please take
the time to read this chapter before attempting to use them.
1.
Place the two foam tubes on the coaming of the shell. Separate them according to the
size of your vehicle’s rooftop. NOTE: If your car has roof racks, use the tubes to pad the
car racks.
2.
Make sure that there are no loose objects inside the shell. Flip it upside down, and
gently lay it in place lengthwise near the center of the car with the -bow facing the front
of the car. This assures proper balance for your shell. N OT E: The SSD can remain
rigged for most cars, trucks, and vans if it is placed in the very center of the vehicle. If
you are transporting two shells, remove the inner rigger of each, and lay the shells side
by side. If your shell is a wing rigger, it is easier to remove the wing before loading
3.
It
is best to have at least two people
when loading and unloading a shell. If you are loading alone, the best way is to s lid e
the shell on from the side of the vehicle. Loading it sideways is also possible. Just be
sure to raise the shell high enough so the rigger does not catch or scratch the roof of
the vehicle.
4.
Slide the loop end of the straps around the shell until they are directly above the front
and rear bumpers. Do not attempt to tie the strap at an angle. Attach each “S” hook to
the CORNERS OF THE BUMPER, NOT THE CENTER. Be sure they are in a hole,
around a bar, or in some mechanism to keep them from sliding towards the center.
5.
Tighten down each strap firmly and equally. A good safety check is to try to slide the
shell sideways on the roof. If it won’t slide or it feels like it’s sticking to the roof, then the
straps are tight enough. Be sure the latch is LOCKED (aiming up the strap) on each
strap. Take the excess strapping and tie half- hitches around each latch for added
security.
42
HINTS
*
When tightening down the straps, pull down on one end until the loam block-s on the
other end raise off the roof about 1/2” - 1”. Then, go to the other end and pull down on the
straps until the blocks are back down firmly on the car.
*
With many new vehicles, the bumpers are -smooth and unexposed. You may wants to
screw in eyebolts underneath to make the job much easier, or you can drill a hole into each
corner of the bumper.
*
Make sure there is always a knot tied in the ends of each strap. DO NOT UNTIE THE
KNOT! This will help secure the straps should the latch come undone while driving.
*
Be sure there are equal lengths of excess strap beyond each latch, DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO DRIVE OFF IF YOU CAN’T TIE AT LEAST ONE HALF-HITCH AROUND THE LATCH
AFTER TIGHTENING THE STRAPS!!
*
Spin the strap clockwise in your hand 5 or 6 times before hooking it into the bumper.
This will help eliminate the strap from FLAPPING in the wind while driving (especially the front
straps) Also tying the excess strap in
half-hitches around the latch eliminates the strap
from sIapping on the hood of your
vehicle.
*
Make sure to check the straps for tightness from time to time during long distance
drives, overnight stays or in rainy weather.
*
If the shell extends MORE THAN FOUR FEET beyond the bumpers, be sure to hang a
red flag on the end of the shell. This i-s the law in many states.
*
If your vehicle already has a permanent luggage rack installed, or you wish to use
another manufacturers bar rack, you can adapt our rack to theirs by simply attaching the foam
tubes to the crossbar rather than the shell. Turn the locks upside down around the bar or
sideways with the open cut towards the rear of the vehicle, and slide them apart to match the
width of the shell. Then place the shell down on the blocks making sure the splashguards touch
the blocks.
*
The type of car rack is not recommended for the OLYMPUS.
*
Please remember that the extra time and care are always worth the effort, and this will
help to ensure a safe and uneventful transportation of your shell.
TILE USER OF THE LITTLE RIVER CAR RACKS AND STRAPS ACKNOWLEDGES BOTH
AN UNDERSTANDING AND AN ASSUMPTION OF THE RISK I NVOLVEI) IN PROPER USE
VERSUS IMPROPER USE OF THIS PRODUCT. THE USER ALSO ACKNOWLEDGES THAT
HE/SHE HAS READ THIS MANUAL AND ACCEPTS FULL AND SOLE RESPONSIBILITY
FOR ANY MISHAPS THAT MAY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF USING THIS PRODUCT.
The merchandise has been designed to give you lasting Performance with proper use. Should
you have any questions concerning this product or any other related products, please call us at
our toll free number 800-247-4591.
43
FIN INSTALLATION
Make sure that the slot in the hull is free from old adhesive fin and/or fragments of the old fin. Insert
the new fin with the tapered end towards the bow.
Use a good quality silicone adhesive (3M or Polyseam sealant) to set the fin. Run a finger bead
around the fin to ensure a good water tight seal. Align the fin with a piece of masking tape. Allow to dry
before removing the tape.
NOTE:
Be sure that the fin is standing -straight up without leaning.
NOTE:
Be sure the section of fin that “fits” into the slot is well scuffed up or rough sanded.
44
HERITAGE DORY
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS Your Dory can be rowed in three various options: as a single; a single with a
passenger, or a double (if Ordered)...
TO ROW AS A SINGLE...
I) Screw the bench into the “center” position screwplates (along the sides of the
cockpit liner), using the (2) 2 Y2” black handle bench knobs. Be sure the hold
in the center of the bench is towards the bow (behind you as you row. .
2) Place the drop-in rowing station onto the bench with the “feet” end of the
monorail matching up with the screwplate on the floor (towards the stern...)
and the other end matching the hole in the monorail with the hole in the
bench. Attach using the small 1” black knob to the floor screwplate, and the
4” black knob and fender washer to the hole in the bench,
NOTE: If your rowing station comes to you unassembled (Fixed rigger type only)...
1) Flip the monorail section upside down, placing the “feet” end up on a chair
and the other end down on the floor.
2) Unscrew the two large screws from the underside of the monorail (using an
allen wrench)
3) Take the bent rigger bar section. . . hold it out in front of you as if laying it
on a table (level). . . unfold the smaller tube rigger arms so they point away
from you. . . now lower the bar down onto the monorail until the holes match
up. . . screw tightly into place using the large allen bolts provided.
4) Take the entire unit and flip it back around right side up.
5) Bend the small rigger arms back until they come flush up against the tower
(between the feet.. .). Be sure they’re on the inside of the tower, not the
outside; screw each one into the tower using the alien screws provided.
TO ROW AS A SINGLE WITH A PASSENGER...
You have a few options on how to position the bench while carrying extra gear or passengers.
1) Plan “A” — should always be to keep the bench in the center position. The Dory will row and
maneuver more efficiently in this position. Smaller passengers and children can ride (sit) on both
the bow or stern molded seat with you rowing in the center, the first option is to carry them in the
stern seat facing you...
2) Plan “B” — when carrying a larger passenger, have them sit in the stern molded seat (back of
Dory). If you still notice the back end ‘dragging” or front end “plowing”, have your passenger move
forward until they’re now sitting on the floor of the cockpit (bring along a PFD seat cushion for them
to sit on). . . they will find it quite comfortable (as if sitting in a hottub), which will add more efficiency
to your rowing.
NOTE: Remember Federal Laws require that all persons aboard a vessel must carry or wear a life
preserver (PFD). It is also recommended that all children and/or persons unable to swim should wear
their PFD’s at all times while aboard our rowing crafts.
45
TO ROW AS A DOUBLE...
Some of you have ordered your Dory with the Double option (the ability to be rowed by two people).
You will then notice 3 sets of screw plates located in the cockpit.
I) Unscrew the bench from the center position screwplates, and reposition it back into the bow
screwplates.
2) Take the 2~ bench and screw it into the stern set of screwplates, which will
give you a bench at both ends of the Dory (not in the center).
NOTE: If the bench seems too short to line up with the holes, simply “lean” your body against one side
of the boat, reach across and grab the other side, and pull or squeeze it towards you — this will bring
the sides closer to each other.
3) Now screw the original rowing station into place using the bow bench and Floor screwplate.
4) The second rowing station can then be screwed into the stern bench and floor screwplate.
NOTE: We recommend that when rowing the HERITAGE as a double, you should place the more
experienced rower in the bow station. This will allow he or she to keep an eye out for the less
experienced partner (match their rowing stroke, counter their mishaps, stop when they stop, etc...)
However, if this causes a weight imbalance (plowing vs. dragging) feel free to switch places and try
it again.
S
OPERATION OF THE SWING OUT/FOLD-IN RIGGER SYSTEM
1) If you purchased the new SWING-OUT RIGGERS system, there is a left and a right rigger. Just be
sure each rigger arm “swings” towards the Stern of the boat. The rigger arm has a “catch” down in
the bracket that locks the swinging action at about 90 degrees perpendicular to the boat, not
allowing it to “swing” any further towards the bow...
BOW
STERN
46
2) If you purchased a DOUBLE, there is a short and a long pair of rigger arms -The SHORT pair
are to be used in the BOW and CENTER rowing position; the LONGER pair is for the stern
position.
MISSING ILLUSTRATION
3) IMPORTANT! Be sure you TIGHTEN the handle lever when the arms are locked in the rowing
position; any looseness can cause damage to the “catch” which would change the angle of the
arms for proper rowing. . . Also, the DOUBLE has 4 handles and 2 thumbscrews; be sure to
ALWAYS use the handles with the rigger arms; the thumbscrews are used to simply fill the
bracket holes that are NOT in use at that time. . . in other words, “swap” the thumbscrews with
the handles when switching from single to double rowing.
4: NOTE: Anytime when removing the riggers, be sure to “plug the bracket hole with the RUBBER
CAPS supplied with the DORY. You will find a pair of caps (for each pair of swing outs. . .) in the
porthole storage bag.
SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE PRECAUTIONS
SAFETY
1) Some states require the HERITAGE to be licensed and/or registered. If so, you may need a
Manufacturers Statement of Origin (MSO) to prove both ownership and value. This is due to the
fact that the HERITAGE does have the option to be motorized (up to 2 HP), or your state simply
requires all boating vessels to be registered. Check with your local Coast Guard, Fish & Game
Department, or License and Tag Agency. If you need one, contact the factory and one will be
provided.
2) Remember. . to carry a Coast Guard approved personal floatation devise (PFD) for each
person on board at all times. Small children and those unable to swim should be encouraged to
wear their PFD’s while on board.
NOTE: Be sure to read and become familiar with both the WARNING LABEL and CAPACITY LABEL,
located on the stern inner liner of the cockpit (inside the boat…) If for some reason your Dory does not
have either of these, contact the factory IMMEDIATELY and we will send you new ones to attach.
3) If you plan to row for an extended time period, or beyond the site of land, we would suggest you
carry along the following items:
a)
b)
c)
d)
plenty of fresh water (and food...)
sun protection, including both lotion (UV protection—30) and the
appropriate clothing (hats, long sleeve shirts, sunglasses, etc...)
waterproof flashlight and/or strobe light (allows you to signal for help
or notify other boaters of your position, especially at night...)
bright colored hats and upper body clothing (which makes you more
visible to other boaters, especially fast moving motorized vessels...)
47
e)
f)
g)
h)
a bailing devise (sponge, bucket, etc.) in case of a sudden downpour or waver entering the
HERITAGE
a long rope that can be attached to the bow tow-eye (allows you to “tie off” when needed ...)
a small canoe paddle, which can be used to manually row to safety in
case the sculling stations fail to function...
a whistle, and/or a flare gun, and/or an air horn. . . if your motto is “it’s better to be safe than
sorry”.
NOTE: REMEMBER, to always heed weather and water conditions before heading out to row. It’s
smart to pre-check the weather channel and take visual sightings when planning your rowing routine,
and then take the necessary precautions BEFORE you head out to sea — you’ll be glad you did.
4) In the event of a capsize, your HERITAGE has two large captured air pockets (the molded
seats at each end of the cockpit) which should create enough floatation to keep both you and
your vessel afloat. If possible, then the HERITAGE back to the upright position and bail out the
remaining water. Your boat is still rowable with water in the cockpit.
MAINTENANCE
The following items should be implemented whenever possible to insure a properly maintained vessel,
and to encourage a longer life, both functional and cosmetic,
1) NEVER LEAVE THE HERITAGE IN THE WATER for long periods of Time. A standard
polyester gelcoat surface is on the hull, which can be porous if left in direct contact with water
(there again, overtime. . .). You would need to apply a special fiberglass bottom coating paint,
similar to what you’d find on larger vessels which are intended to rest in the water.
2) IF POSSIBLE, KEEP THE HERITAGE UNDERCOVER AND OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT.
Over time, the UV rays can discolor, fatigue, and breakdown the function of the gelcoat
surface. We make custom canvas covers for each model, which also keeps your cockpit clean
and free of debris. (An excellent “insurance” program for your new boat!)
3) When the DORY is not being used (up and out of the water on the beach, the Dock, etc.) you
should make it a habit to UNSCREW THE DRAINPLUG out of the cockpit. Even with a cover
on, the elements can find a way in. . . this insures the Dory will not catch unwanted water while
being stored.
NOTE: Remember to put the drainplug BACK IN before launching for the next row... It would also be
wise to keep a SPARE drainplug in your “Murphy’s Law” tool kit...
4) When using the Dory IN SALTWATER, be sure to CLEAN THE ROWING STATION with fresh
water. All your parts are either stainless steel or anodized aluminum; it is always smart to keep
them clean — don’t allow the saltwater to “dry” or “cake” on the parts.
5) KEEP ALL OF THE MOVING PARTS CLEAN AND DRY. The rowing Station is made of
aluminum and self-lubricated plastic parts; they will perform their best if just kept clean and free
from sand or grit. Adding lubricants (oils, sprays, grease) are not needed and only hinders its
ability to stay “grit-free”.
6) There is a screw-type drainplug on the back transom of the Dory. . . it is intended to remove
unwanted water (even condensation) from between the cockpit liner and the hull.
48
It is recommended TO REMOVE THIS DRAINPLUG ONCE A MONTH to allow
the sealed cavity to ventilate and remove any unwanted moisture. THIS IS IMPORTANT . . .
PLEASE BE SURE TO TAKE THE TIME TO DO THIS!
7) Your fiberglass hull and liner should be THOROUGHLY CLEANED AND WAXED I TO 2
TIMES A YEAR. Most standard cleaning products (409, Windex, Ivory Dishwashing soap and a
scrub brush) can be used to do the appropriate job. For tougher stains and marks you can soak
a clean rag with “acetone” (fingernail polish remover) and rub the area; just be sure NOT to
touch the rubrails, stickers or plastic parts, as acetone can damage them.
To prepare the HERITAGE for waxing:
- thoroughly clean the area as described above
- (Optional.. .) if the fiberglass is faded, take a fine grit rubbing compound and buff the area
with a high speed buffing pad. This will bring back the “sheen” of the glass.
- Use a quality handrubbed wax made especially for fiberglass (not carwax). You can
also use a polymer based product (such as Poly Glow or Liquid Glass) which protects
from oxidation and makes it much easier to clean the Dory.
8) The bottom of the Skiff has been “beefed up” for its ability to be dragged, slid, and rested
on its surface; however, we always recommend to USE A SMOOTH OR APPROPRIATE
SURFACE TO SLIDE OR REST THE KEEL. For example, if sliding over the edge of a
dock, place a rug or piece of carpet over the edge, or attach a small trailer-type “roller” . .
this is not only safer, but the Dory will slide much easier (especially at a deep angle) due
to the “smooth” surface.
9) Moving the Dory around (from the beach back up to the house, from the car down to the
lake, etc. . .) can be made a ONE-PERSON operation with the use of a HAND DOLLY or
PULL CART. It easily rests under the middle of the Dory, balancing its weight, allowing
the handler to grab the bow cap and simply push or pull it to their destination. We offer a
balloon tire dolly (see Accessories Catalogue) that can travel through softer terrain
(grass, sand, etc.).
10) Dory storage — The Dory should never be left for extended periods (even overnight)
HANGING FROM DAVIT’S OR OTHER “SLING” DEVICES. If you must, use a sling
under the hull (NOT HOOKED TO THE BOW AND STERN TOWEYE.. . ) and make it
mandatory to pull both the cockpit and the liner drain plugs.
11) If your HERITAGE came with a porthole cover/storage bag in the bow liner, just
remember IT IS NOT 100% WATERTIGHT. If the cockpit filled with water,, it would
slowly “seep” through the cover and into the liner of your hull. To prevent this, once
again, be sure to pull the cockpit drainplug when storing on land upright.
12) If you purchased a cover for your skiff, notice that when the swing riggers are
Folded IN towards each other, they are angled up at about 45 degrees- this creates a
“tent” affect for the cover which will help shed undue water and rain.
NOTE: Be sure to ‘pad” the top of each oarlock with a sock or soft material to prevent the canvas
from chaffing or rubbing a hole through the cover.
HAPPY ROWING!!
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