III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie 1 THE GUARDIAN Boy's rape scene delays film release as Hollywood and Afghan culture collide Dan Glaister in Los Angeles and Declan Walsh in Islamabad Friday October 5, 2007 Studio to take young Kite Runner stars to US before worldwide screenings amid fears for their safety at home It is a pivotal moment in a heartbreaking story. A young man looks back on the moment that defined his life. "I became what I am today at the age of 12, on a frigid, overcast, day in the winter of 1975. I remember the precise moment, crouching behind a crumbling mud wall, peeking into the alley near the frozen creek." The opening words to the best-selling novel The Kite Runner by the Afghan-American writer Khaled Hosseini describe the reaction of a young boy, Amir, as he witnesses the rape of his best friend, Hassan. Now that same scene is at the centre of a row that has set an Afghan family against a Hollywood studio, and led to the delay of the film version of the novel, one of the most eagerly awaited films of the year. Paramount Vantage, the arthouse division of Paramount Studios that made the $18m (£9m) film, has postponed the picture's release until it can ensure the safety of the two young Afghans who portray the protagonists. Ahmad Khan Mahmidzada, the boy who plays Hassan, and his family have alleged that the film-makers did not tell them about the scene until the day of shooting. Concerned at the possible repercussions the children may face, the studio is bringing them to the US at the time of the film's worldwide release. Twelve-year-old Ahmad Khan, who is from Kabul, spoke about the rape scene to the Associated Press last month, saying: "They didn't give me the script. They didn't give me the story. If I knew about the story, I wouldn't have participated as an actor in this film." The scene is a highly impressionistic rendering of a Pashtun man raping Hassan, a Hazara boy from a servant's family. The actor's parents say it could inflame painful ethnic divisions in Afghanistan. Another actor, Nabi Tanha, who plays Hassan's father, has also expressed concerns about the language used against members of Afghanistan's Hazara ethnic group, portrayed in the film. Rebecca Yeldham, one of the film's producers, claims that both the boy and his father were aware of the scene. "The father was explicity told about the content of that scene at the time of casting," she said. "We rehearsed the scene very early during the shoot in China." Yeldham said that although the pair never raised concerns about the scene, the film-makers knew that other Afghan members of the cast and crew had reservations about it. "The day of the shoot I went to the trailer and the boy was teary," said the film's director, Marc Forster, who is directing the next Bond movie. "I asked what was wrong and he said he didn't want to expose any of his body. I asked if there was anything else wrong and he said no. He was fine and we shot the scene. I never wanted the scene to be gratuitous or explicit." Changes were made and the most graphic elements of the final scene are a shot of a belt buckle being undone, and some drops of blood that fall from Ahmed's trousers in the next scene. But the boy's father says the film-makers agreed to drop the scene altogether. "When we argued, they said, 'we will cut this part of the film, we will take it out of the script'," said Ahmad Jaan Mahmidzada. The 12-year-old said he feared schoolmates might make fun of him or that adults might physically harass him, believing the rape actually took place. "It's not one or two people that I have to explain to," he said. "It's all of Afghanistan. How do I make them understand?" The studio has altered the film's release date to leave time for the two boys to complete their school year in Afghanistan, which ends on December 6. The boys will then go to the US, accompanied by guardians. The studio fears that soon after the UK release, pirated copies of the film will make their way to Afghanistan, which does not have a functioning cinema system. "We're taking the position that any suggestion of risk for these kids is something that has to be taken with the utmost seriousness," said Yeldham. A similar controversy exploded last year after the opening of Kabul Express, an Indian movie set in Afghanistan. A furore erupted around a scene in which a character accuses Hazaras of being bloodthirsty killers. The actor later fled to India. "We had to ship him out to Delhi as people were after his guts," said Saad Mohseni, of Tolo television. Mr Mohseni, who has seen the final cut of The Kite Runner, said its portrayal of the rape was "very sensitive" and he doubted it would endanger the actors. "It's possible they will be ostracised within their families. But it will only become an issue in society if the minority leaders make an issue out of it." Timor Shah Hakimyar, of Afghanistan's Foundation for Culture and Civil Society, said The Kite Runner's rape scene would create problems only if it were graphically portrayed. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 1 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie "If there is direct sex against the boy, then it will be difficult to release here. But if it is symbolic, then it will be OK. People see so many films in Afghanistan, sometimes involving a [raped] woman. If they show it symbolically, there is no problem for the actor." A trip to the US could bring benefits for the boys as the high-profile film is released in the run-up to the Hollywood awards season. "They really want to be part of the celebration of the movie," said Yeldham. "We want them to receive their due recognition for the work." Guardian Unlimited © Guardian News and Media Limited 2007 2 THE GUARDIAN Fashion world holds it breath for new Versace in the house that Gianni built by Hadley Freeman September 24, 2007 When Gianni Versace was murdered on the steps of his Miami Beach mansion in 1997, many feared the flamboyant and idiosyncratic empire he created would die with him. But far from withering away, the brand seems as strong as ever; and in the coming days, two events are likely to mark its complete rejuvenation. After a difficult period when the company appeared to be in decline, Gianni's sister Donatella will close Milan fashion week on Thursday, and within days, his niece will show her debut collection - under the Francesca V label - during Paris fashion week. It will be the work of Francesca that will be the cause of the biggest frisson - just a year after finishing her fashion design studies, the future of the dynasty may rest in her hands. Not that the pressure appeared to be affecting her. "Fashion is in my blood and I'm very excited about showing my collection," said the 25-year-old, whose father, Santo, controls the business side of Versace and is the brother of Donatella. Francesca's pedigree may explain her matter-of-fact reaction to having a major presentation in Paris so soon after graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins College in London - "Well, I was looking around for something after graduating and this happened." Perhaps a sense of entitlement is not surprising from a young woman whose childhood wardrobe largely comprised wares from one of the most expensive brands in the world. Francesca's success neatly mirrors the return to prominence of the other, more famous range from the family stable, designed by her aunt Donatella, whose show will close Milan fashion week on Thursday night. This prestigious slot on the Milan fashion week schedule emphasises the place of importance still accorded to the famous brand. But after Gianni was killed just a month and a half before his "dear friend" Diana, few could have predicted the label would be so strong again. Donatella had been swiftly appointed creative director, although some questioned whether the woman best known for her love of parties was up to the job. By 2004, the company was struggling. Although it refuses to confirm exact figures, it was making markedly less a year than it did when Gianni was alive, with a year-onyear decline. The brand that had been so associated with excess and glamour of the late 80s and 90s was beginning to look out of date, and without a strong figurehead. The company cancelled its couture shows in 2003, and the following year Donatella was admitted to a drug therapy clinic for addiction to cocaine. But since she checked out and cleaned up, Donatella has worked hard to make the Versace brand as strong as it was in her beloved brother's heyday. Instead of trying to mimic Gianni's past successes she has given the brand a new, more modern, more elegant image. Instead of dresses made out of safety pins, as Elizabeth Hurley famously wore in 1994, recent successes include more demurely draped cocktail frocks and tailored trouser suits. The most recent financial figures which date from September 2006 show that in the first half of that year consolidated revenues came to €148m (£103m) and a return to profit before tax for the Versace Group of approximately €2m.Sales across the board increased, particularly in the lucrative accessories division which exceeded 30%. Now thanks to what the Versace financial report calls "considerably increased cash flow", the company can indulge again in its love of excess. It recently announced it is to start designing the interiors of private jets and helicopters, a move the company describes as "a natural extension within the Versace world". Donatella's last show in February received almost unanimously good reviews. As did her niece's graduate show in London in June 2006. Unlike the last graduate from the fashion college with an internationally famous surname, Stella McCartney, Versace received nothing but praise from the press for her graduate show, with fashion editors noting its "professionalism" and "sleekness". Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 2 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Although Francesca's father has always been seen as the quiet one of the famous Versace siblings, his daughter appears to be following in her aunt's footsteps in more ways than one. Aside from her early success in the fashion world since her arrival in London to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins she has been a regular feature in gossip columns and has been linked with various young royals and Hollywood actors. "She hangs around with a very Euro and Boujis set," said one of her friends in London, referring to the west London nightclub frequented by Princes William and Harry. Yet like her aunt she clearly takes her designing seriously. Her collection in Paris is done in collaboration with a boutique in Singapore, where she was living over the summer, and she has "quite a few" independent projects coming up. "Having this name can work against you or for you," she said on the phone last week. "Right now things are going very well." In the blood Gianni Versace The man behind some of fashion's most iconic moments and head of an empire which at its height made over $1bn a year in sales. In 1997 he was murdered outside the house in Miami which he shared with his longterm partner. His killer later killed himself. Donatella Versace Youngest and most recognisable Versace sibling. Her celebrity-laden lifestyle made her Gianni's muse, and she became creative director when he died. After an initial downturn, which ended after she was admitted to a clinic for drug addiction, Donatella has returned the company to its former glory. She owns 20% of the company and her daughter Allegra, 18,owns 50%. Santo Versace The less flamboyant and eldest sibling. Established the Versace brand with Gianni in 1977, now in charge of the business side and many credit him with a large part of the recent resurgence. He almost never gives interviews. He owns 30% of the company. Francesca Versace The only daughter of Santo, Francesca's childhood alternated between the academic expectations of her father to hanging out backstage at her uncle's shows with Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. She trained at the prestigious Central St Martins in London. She has only asked her aunt for advice once but Donatella's response was: "You know how to do it." 3 THE GUARDIAN Ask Leo: Your ethical dilemmas sorted by Leo Hickman Thursday June 28, 2007 If the recently announced European ban on cat- and dog-fur imports doesn't actually come into force until the end of next year, how can I guarantee now I'm not buying something containing cat or dog "product"? Shelley Long, Middlesex Without having an expensive and somewhat cumbersome DNA testing kit to hand, there is no way of telling with certainty that something you are eyeing up in the high street doesn't contain the coat of Tiddles' or Rover's faraway cousin. Obviously, avoiding any item of clothing with a fur detail is a necessary and principled start, but cheap fur has not only found its way on to the - a particularly unfortunate phrase this, I know - catwalk but also into shops in the form of cuddly toys. Well, this is what campaign groups such as Respect for Animals and Humane Society International claim, even though they admit that, to date, they have not found hard evidence of this in the UK, only continental Europe. There still remains an unfortunate administrative loophole whereby cat- and dog-fur imports can enter Europe unaudited via the "other fur" tick box on the import forms. Only species such as fox, mink and rabbit have their own specific classification for customs officials to scrutinise and tot up. The new ban can only be applauded, but it says a lot about our sensibilities that it stops at cats and dogs. The campaigners who have lobbied for years for it to be passed readily admit that the politicians would only support a ban that has widespread public support, which meant, for example, that rabbits, despite being popular pets, were not included as they don't tug quite as hard at our heartstrings as our canine and feline friends. It gives the impression that our empathy stops at the cat flap. Dozens of equally contentious animal products will remain on the market. It now seems likely that seal products will be the next battleground. Expect sellers of sealskin sporrans to be the new target of campaign groups, as well as purveyors of omega-3 fatty acids made of "marine oil", a term that conveniently disguises the fact that seal, or even dolphin, oil might have been used. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 3 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie 4 THE DAILY EXPRESS HISTORY IS HERE TO STAY WITH THE PAST MASTERS OF BRITAIN Saturday September 29,2007 Historic House Hotels in Britain specialise in restoring country houses and opening them up to guests. DUNCAN CRAIG checks in to one of their three properties, Middlethorpe Hall FOR A William III property whose first brick was laid in 1699, the reincarnation of Middlethorpe Hall as a Seventies nightclub was the final indignity. As I relaxed in the refined silence of the exquisitely restored ballroom, sipping Pimm’s and perusing the “Bill of Fare”, it seemed remarkable to think that just a generation ago the portraits around me would have been frosted mirrors, the chandelier a glitter ball. I looked for signs of the radical salvage, something that might betray a speedy cut-and-shut job. None could be seen. From every pore oozed that wonderful, intangible sense of history. That the rich past of Middlethorpe had a future is down to the enigmatic chairman of Historic House Hotels, Richard Broyd. He acquired the crumbling building left after the eviction of Brummels disco and more than a century of neglect and – over five years from 1979 – restored it inch by ornate inch to historically accurate standards. Almost imperceptibly he inserted a hotel, the 29 rooms moulded by the idiosyncrasies of the main hall and adjacent courtyard. Today, these rooms share little, save for a preoccupation with comfort. The quality fabrics are as individual as the antiques, which are constantly being added to. “Christie’s contacts the owner when anything from the original house comes up for auction,” said manager Lionel Chatard, pointing out a painting in the sumptuous Duke of York suite that had been hanging less than three weeks. “He will always look to buy if there’s a link.” My partner and I stayed in a spacious upstairs room in the courtyard area, with views of rolling fields through one window and the imposing red-brick hall through the other. With quirky patterned wallpaper, dainty reading lamps and a wireless-style radio, it brought to mind a favourite guestroom at the home of a wealthy grandmother – homely and just a tiny bit eccentric. In the modern en-suite bathroom, thick white robes embroidered with the HHH initials were draped over warming towel rails. The rain fell almost unabated during our weekend stay, swelling the River Ouze 200 yards away and putting the flood-weary residents of York, two miles upstream, on alert. We had hoped to explore the Yorkshire Dales and North Yorkshire Moors; in the event, we were happy to be confined to the Hall and soak up the history – save for a soggy outing to York’s awe‑ inspiring Minster. Middlethorpe today exhibits all the eccentricities of age – wonky doorframes, gently undulating floors, asymmetrical ceilings. We gravitated to the ballroom, with its dazzling array of antique furniture, ornaments and portraits, and stunning views through floor-length bay windows of the open lawn and distant parkland. Across the chequered marble South Hall – with its carved oak staircase overseen by a portrait of diarist and one-time resident Lady Mary Wortley Montagu – is the Oak Room where guests dine. HERE we sat around candle-lit tables, admiring the striking marble fireplace and hand-carved original wood panelling, which had to be painstakingly reclaimed from sickly green paint applied by one of the multiple tenants that preceded Brummels. The fare was inventive – roasted quail with pancetta, morels and sherry vinaigrette jus; poached turbot with asparagus and chive sauce. Guests have unlimited use of the pool and spa, hidden within a pair of Edwardian cottages across from the courtyard. I shuffled across in my robe the following day and eased on to the massage table to be unknotted by a masseuse still lamenting the fact that she was absent the day Russell Crowe came for a rub-down. Recent guest Tony Blair went unmentioned. Between breaks in the clouds, we ventured into the Hall’s 20 acres of parkland, dotted with ornate fountains and stone urns, and sat in the ha-ha, a flat-backed trench cut into the lawn from where Lady Montagu would have reflected, quill in hand. Delayed by a lightning strike to York station, we enjoyed prolonged hospitality from Mr Chatard and his team. “Building rapport with the guests is important to us,” he said as we finally left, adding with an unapologetic shrug: “The way we work is maybe a little old-fashioned.” In such venerable surroundings, somehow nothing else would do. the 90-acre grounds. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 4 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie 5 THE HERALD ‘Yes, we have problems here, but so does everyone else’ by STEVEN RAEBURN The noise is incredible. A low bass can be heard thumping outside from 50ft away. The doors are closed, but emanating from within, screams and cheers compete with the music booming from the PA system. It is Friday afternoon, and sitting in the dark in an improvised cinema, next to an unprepossessing row of shops adjacent to a derelict dentist's surgery in the heart of Easterhouse, Disney's High School Musical holds scores of local children enraptured. They know it word perfect. They sing along, hold their hands in the air for the ballads, and, at the climactic moments, are out of their seats and dancing. Watching discreetly, and singing along a little himself, is Stephen McGoldrick, the architect of this unnoticed triumph in the heart of one of Europe's most economically deprived areas. More than a youth centre, for many of the youngsters who come here on each of the six days and nights that its doors are open, it is almost home. This is Innerzone - the hub of the same universe that featured so prominently in the As It Is schools DVD, launched triumphantly by Strathclyde Police in September, which featured brutal footage of the after-effects of gang fighting, the territorial scourge of this area. Images from the film, showing horribly wounded children maimed in knife battles, were splashed across news bulletins and front pages, accompanied by febrile fears that the police would show such a horror video - portraying stabbings and violence - to the city's children. The film is indeed powerful, but now McGoldrick, Innerzone's project co-ordinator, says its message and intent were hijacked by the police and he fears that the damage done to the perception of the area and the work that is done here might adversely effect the children he dedicates his life to supporting. "I didn't think it was right that the police took all credit for it," he says. "This DVD would not have been made without the work of Fare (Family Action in Rogerfield and Easterhouse) and Innerzone Youth Club". "The police didn't even mention the work of the youth workers, and I thought that was disgraceful." The video was made by Doug Aubrey and Marie Olesen, the partnership behind independent production company Autonomi, over 10 months, much of which was spent gaining the trust of the adolescents, for whom Innerzone is possibly the only alternative to a life on the street and the deadly possibilities that presents. More than two months passed before a camera was picked up, and it took many further months of patient pseudo-parenting, persistence and millimetre- by-millimetre progress into the inner circles of the kids' lives before they were able to capture the intermittent but deadly violence that can flare up, sometimes without warning, but often with predictable certainty if territorial tensions escalate. In the film, young people from Easterhouse talk candidly about their involvement in gangs and the feelings they got from being involved in fighting - as well as the longer-term costs. The degree of involvement from young people - who usually give little away - could never have been achieved without Innerzone, McGoldrick says, and filmmakers confirmed this. The film also shows CCTV footage of youth gang violence, children from a variety of parts of the city recovering in accident and emergency departments and recording warnings to others about the dangers of being drawn into a violent life. McGoldrick is concerned about two potential consequences of negative perception generated by the publicity surrounding the launch. The Innerzone youth centre is reliant on a complicated network of funding, and an inaccurate presentation could impact on their ability to stay afloat, he says. One of the reasons McGoldrick agreed to get involved in the project was to help correct perceptions of the area and explain that gang fighting is a city-wide problem, he says. The effect has been the reverse. Secondly, and more disturbingly, McGoldrick says perceptions can, perversely, become a reality for the children at the centre, whose life choices are extremely limited from the outset. "They are labelled, and it is hard to shake that label off," he explains. "If they keep getting labelled, they'll say **** it, I'm a gang fighter', and they will believe it." Despite its location and its membership, gang fighting - or any kind of fighting - is hard to find at Innerzone. It is next door to a licensed grocer, but no-one hangs around outside. There is no alcohol, or evidence of it anywhere. The centre is constantly full, but no-one is idle. Everyone is occupied, either on a bank of PCs chatting on social networking sites, or playing well-mannered pool. There is a music room, where several incarnations of nascent bands are at work on their repertoire. Boys and girls drop in and unselfconsciously sing. It is intermittently brilliant, frequently off key, but never mocked. There is a PS2, Nintendo Wii and numerous games, none of which is kept under lock and key. In four years, since the centre opened, not even a pencil has been stolen, staff say. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 5 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie McGoldrick also feels that that the violence portrayed in the film which became the focus of a media firestorm is replicated across most communities in Scotland. The problem appears worse in Easterhouse, he says, because the lack of alternative options for the children makes fighting appear to be the exclusive pastime "What we were trying to do is let people see how it is. No kidology, no glamorising. This is what happens in every single major area of Glasgow, and you have to start realising this," he says. The DVD's aim was to teach people about the dangers of gangs, without tarring a single area, he adds. "Stop targeting Easterhouse. Everybody relates us to gang fighting and knife culture. We have our problems like everywhere else, but it is not just us." Producer Marie Olesen stresses that the purpose of the film was to inform communities across the country of the existence of the violence children can be exposed to. "It was never meant to be about gang fighting in the east end of Glasgow at all. It is a city-wide problem, a nationwide problem," she says. The filmmakers, too, were concerned about the launch of the DVD being appropriated by the police, and bothered that the tone of much of the coverage might be counterproductive. Director Doug Aubrey points out that much of the negative perception of the area has been catalysed by the presence of television crews, creating the very violence they expected to capture. "The usual thing is the parachute filmmaking crews go in, and it is like the Pied Piper of Hamelin," he says. "Kids know a film crew is about, they start to gather, and it will kick off. The film crew get what they want." In contrast, when Autonomi were working with the Innerzone youngsters, their attitude was to shut the cameras down if they appeared to be provoking "acting up" among the kids. What no-one denies is that many local young people deal daily with the social problems that attach themselves to economically deprived areas: family breakdown, addiction, STDs, lack of opportunity. The drop off the other end from this point is sharp and final. Whether or not they see it that way themselves, they willingly grasp the chance that is presented by the efforts of the Innerzone team. "We give the young guys respect and responsibility. That is a big word. Responsibility is what they have never had before, and they do take it well," he says. The modern Hub community centre - the recipient of resources that will always be beyond Innerzone - is around 100 yards away. Its facilities are open to pensioners, mothers, the addicted, but only a few timetabled slots are available to young people per week, in sharp contrast to the home-from-home accessibility of Innerzone. McGoldrick lives locally, and is visible to the children in his off-duty time. His manner is paternal, but not parental. The buzz in the centre proves there is something in the formula that is working. Given that the children might only have the street as an alternative, it is no exaggeration to propose that the work of this team is saving lives. Innerzone staff member Sandie Adamstrong, whom some of the kids refer to as their "other mum" agrees that the small achievements of the centre can and do have a profound impact. "We have guided a lot of the kids down the right path," she says. "If we weren't here, they might not be on such a straight path." Stephen McGoldrick is a tough man, but he, too, takes his work personally "This is my family. I will protect my family and respect them." Concerns over the way the As It Is film was eventually used are now to be aired in a forum at Glasgow's Centre for Contemporary Arts on Friday October 19, as part of Document V, Glasgow's documentary film festival. The filmmakers, contributors, Innerzone, and other parties, including the police, will discuss the challenges for filmmakers and ethics of newsgathering when the subject is of sensationalist nature. The Herald Society contacted Strathclyde Police but they declined to comment. 6 Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 6 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie THE GUARDIAN In millions of Windows, the perfect Storm is gathering By John Naughton Sunday October 21, 2007 A spectre is haunting the net but, outside of techie circles, nobody seems to be talking about it. The threat it represents to our security and wellbeing may be less dramatic than anything posed by global terrorism, but it has the potential to wreak much more havoc. And so far, nobody has come up with a good idea on how to counter it. It's called the Storm worm. It first appeared at the beginning of the year, hidden in email attachments with the subject line: '230 dead as storm batters Europe'. The PC of anyone who opened the attachment became infected and was secretly enrolled in an ever-growing network of compromised machines called a 'botnet'. The term 'bot' is a derivation of 'software robot', which is another way of saying that an infected machine effectively becomes the obedient slave of its - illicit - owner. If your PC is compromised in this way then, while you may own the machine, someone else controls it. And they can use it to send spam, to participate in distributed denial-of-service attacks on banks, e-commerce or government websites, or for other even more sinister purposes. Storm has been spreading steadily since last January, gradually constructing a huge botnet. It affects only computers running Microsoft Windows, but that means that more than 90 per cent of the world's PCs are vulnerable. Nobody knows how big the Storm botnet has become, but reputable security professionals cite estimates of between one million and 50 million computers worldwide. To date, the botnet has been used only intermittently, which is disquieting: what it means is that someone, somewhere, is quietly building a doomsday machine that can be rented out to the highest bidder, or used for purposes that we cannot yet predict. Of course, computer worms are an old story, which may explain why the mainstream media has paid relatively little attention to what's been happening. Old-style worms - the ones with names like Sasser and Slammer - were written by vandals or hackers and designed to spread as quickly as possible. Slammer, for example, infected 75,000 computers in 10 minutes, and therefore attracted a lot of attention. The vigour of the onslaught made it easier for anti-virus firms to detect the attack and come up with countermeasures. In that sense, old-style worms were like measles - an infectious disease that shows immediate symptoms. Storm is different. It spreads quietly, without drawing attention to itself. Symptoms don't appear immediately, and an infected computer can lie dormant for a long time. 'If it were a disease,' says one expert, Bruce Schneier, 'it would be more like syphilis, whose symptoms may be mild or disappear altogether, but which will come back years later and eat your brain.' Schneier thinks Storm represents 'the future of malware' because of the technical virtuosity of its design. For example, it works rather like an ant colony, with separation of duties. Only a small fraction of infected hosts spread the worm. A much smaller fraction are command-and-control servers; the rest stand by to receive orders. By only allowing a small number of hosts to propagate the virus and act as command-and-control servers, Storm is resilient against attack because even if those hosts shut down, the network remains largely intact and other hosts can take over their duties. More fiendishly, Storm doesn't have any noticeable performance impact on its hosts. Like a parasite, it needs the host to be intact and healthy for its own survival. This makes it harder to detect, because users and network administrators won't notice any abnormal behaviour most of the time. And instead of having all hosts communicate with a central server or set of servers, Storm uses a peer-to-peer networking protocol for its command-and-control servers. This makes the botnet much harder to disable because there's no centralised control point to be identified and shut down. It gets worse. Storm's delivery mechanism changes regularly. It began as PDF spam, then morphed into ecards and YouTube invites. It then started posting blog-comment spam, again trying to trick viewers into clicking infected links. Similarly, the Storm email changes all the time, with new, topical subject lines and text. And last month Storm began attacking anti-spam sites focused on identifying it. It has also attacked the personal website of a malware expert who published an analysis of how it worked. At the moment, nobody knows who's behind this. Is it a Russian mafia operation? An al-Qaeda scheme? The really creepy thing is that, to date, the controllers of Storm have used it for such relatively trivial purposes. The suspicion has to be that they are biding their time, waiting for the moment when, say, 100 million naive Windows users have clicked on an infected link and unwittingly added their machines to the botnet. Only then will we know what a perfect storm in cyberspace is like. 7 THE HERALD Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 7 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie This chilling trade must be broken by DAVID BELCHER Not to be confused with deadpan comedy droll Paul Merton, tall blond history fan Paul Murton strode breathlessly around Skye looking like Sting's brother. His task? To profile the ancient and bloody clan feud between the MacLeods and the MacDonalds. What did Paul teach us in an all-too-brief 30 minutes? Chiefly, that ethnic cleansing visited Scotland 400 years ago; that the "Crotach" in Alasdair Crotach MacLeod, eighth clan chief, is Gaelic for hunchback; and that two blokes - Murton and an Aberdeen Uni historian - talking about historical feasts while pretending to eat a meal is a recipe for distraction and disaster (too many meaningless cut-aways to hauf-chowed fish, continuity problems over knives and forks, mumbly bits through mouthfuls of tatty). More recent history was more unpalatable in China's Stolen Children. There was no happy ending to the reallife detective mystery at the documentary's core: Chen Jie, aged five, remained just as lost as he had been for seven months before his parents hired a pudgy ex-cop, Ju, to bring him home. It's reckoned 70,000 children are abducted and sold on to other families annually in China, a consequence of rural poverty and native sexism - everybody wants a little boy, no-one wants little girls - plus the Chinese government's draconian birth-control policies. China's Stolen Children was the creation of Kate Blewett and Brian Woods, who, in 1995, made The Dying Rooms, a harrowing televisual record of the Chinese state's former belief that orphaned infants were better left to die in its hellish official nurseries, tied to chairs. The Dying Rooms softened official attitudes, prompting more adoptions. Let's hope China's Stolen Children occasions similarly humane improvement. No longer should Chinese bureaucracy turn a blind eye to mass abduction. Only the hardest-hearted, flintiesteyed could remain unmoved by the unresolved grief of Chen Jie's parents. Maybe, like me, you misted up early on over the everyday maternal worry voiced by Chen Jie's mum. "When it is raining, I wonder if he is getting wet," she stated with heartbreaking and powerless concern, thereafter dissolving into wracked sobs. There was misery even in the one happy story of rescue and reunion we saw. Now aged six and safely facing the cameras back in his family living room, Chong Jang had been stolen from outside his home by a man in a car laden with three other little abductees. "I thought mum and dad had sold me," Chong Jang told us, recalling his theft. This was followed by a glittery-eyed stare into the distance and a silent pout of the little lad's lips, gestures that were eloquent testimony to his feelings of gloom and suffering. But what of the ostensible "star" of China's Stolen Children, Ju, the detective? We saw him wearily chainsmoking; practising his expertise at martial arts - or shouting while slowly hitting a punchbag - and reassuring his aged mother that he was about to retire from the dangerous business of combating traffickers. Ju did have one victory, covertly recorded on green night-vision lens, plucking a teenage girl from captors about to sell her into some form of slavery. Sadly, though, Ju made a much less convincing figure than the programme's other featured player, the plausible Wang Li, a matter-of-fact trafficker in stolen children and deceived young women ("modest, innocent girls with simple clothes"). As he admitted, Wang Li had once sold one of his own sons and thus felt no compunction about selling other people's. "It's easy to be a bad man, but it's hard to be a good one," he reasoned with chilling logic. 12:01am today 8 THE HERALD Welcome to the vroom with a view. By MARISA DUFFY As the traffic lights on the Royal Mile turn to green, every head in the vicinity swivels to find out just what sort of vehicle is making the big roar. Mouths fall uniformly open as the banana-yellow trike, with its huge headlights and shiny chrome trappings, makes its way towards the Scottish Parliament building. Forget bus tours and self-drive: trike tours are the newest, and most novel, way to explore Scotland's scenery. A chauffeur-driven trike offers the countryside from a biker's-eye view, with all the rubber-necking perks of being a passenger. Winding our way up Calton Hill above the spires and rooftops of Edinburgh, we pick up speed on the open road. With room for two passengers behind the driver, it's like Easy Rider in triplicate. Edinburgh-based Trike Tours Scotland was set up last year by Tracy Ferguson and Gordon Shon. "We spotted a niche in the market for activities that couples could do together, " says Shon. "There are plenty of single-sex activities which cater for stag weekends and the like, but few organised tours are just for couples." Before climbing onto the 1600cc trike, passengers are given leather jackets, gloves and helmets with integrated headsets which allow them to speak to each other and listen to music. Tours include Loch Lomond, Perthshire, the Trossachs, Edinburgh to North Berwick and a Burns tour of Ayrshire, but the team are open to suggestions from customers for tailor-made routes. "We try to avoid motorways, simply because Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 8 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie they are boring to drive on, and congested areas - but otherwise we'll consider it," says Shon, one of two chauffeurs and a keen biker for years. Around 70% of customers live in Scotland; the other 30% are tourists. Many bookings are for special occasions; others are by people who've always dreamed of hitting the open road but never got a bike. "I had a 50-year-old woman who was in tears of joy at the end of the tour," recalls Shon. "She had always wanted to ride on a motorbike. She told me she felt like she was flying." Rather surprisingly, though, a lot of the customers are fully fledged bikers themselves. "A lot of bike owners come on the tours with their wives because they are keen to share the experience," says Shon. "On their own bike they have to watch the road for every pebble, but on the trike they can look around and enjoy the view." Tours involve a pit stop at a viewpoint, where the chauffeur produces a tray with hot chocolate and shortbread from a compartment in the back of the bike. After a one-hour jaunt, our tour is almost over. As we turn into Princes Street, the low sun is bright and Lou Reed's Perfect Day fills my high-tech helmet. It's hard to disagree with the sentiment. One man who is familiar with the buzz of travelling by motorbike is Charley Boorman. Actor, biking fanatic and pal of Ewan McGregor, Boorman has been messing around with bikes since he was in short trousers. "I was about seven years old when I first got into motorbikes. The first one I rode was a little monkey bike that my mate Jason Connery was forcing me to push around. My dad was making a film with Sean Connery at the time. We eventually got it going and I got a go on it. I remember going past my dad, heading straight for a barbed- wire fence. As I went past, he pulled me off the bike by the cuff of my neck and it went flying into the fence." Undeterred, he jumped at the chance to have a go on a motocross bike in rural Ireland, where he grew up, a few years later. "I kept hearing this two-stoke engine and I eventually plucked up the courage to ask this young guy for a go. I rode around the field a few times, fell off - and was hooked for life." Boorman now rides a BMW 1200 Adventure and a Beta 400 off-road bike, and has lost none of his youthful enthusiasm. "It's a passion that comes from inside you. When you're on a motorbike, you're amongst the elements straight away and there are no distractions - you're concentrating on where you're going. The freedom on the road is beautiful. You can sit there on the bike and you immediately get all the smells so you really feel part of the whole thing. "We live very busy lives now and never have the opportunity to sit back and do nothing. Sitting on that big open road with big miles to do and just you and your thoughts - it can be really invigorating." Boorman and McGregor met while working on a film called Serpent's Kiss in Ireland 12 years ago, and their first conversation was about bikes. They've been friends ever since. On May 12 they set off on a 15,000-mile journey from John O'Groats to Cape Town. Highlights of their 85-day trip will feature in a new television series called The Long Way Down. "The Scottish part was amazing," says Boorman. "I've been going up to Scotland for the last 25 years, to Inverness and the Black Isle, but hadn't really spent any time in that very northern part. It has some of the most beautiful riding in the world. It's stunning." Indeed, in a recent survey by the DVLA, 1500 bikers voted Scottish routes as the top three bike vistas in the UK. The A82 at Glen Coe came top of the poll, while Bealach na Ba, just off the A696, and the stunning Heights of Kinlochewe along the A832 were the second and third most popular routes. VisitScotland has realised the appeal of the country's roads for two-wheeled tourists. To make it easier for bikers to plan a tour of Scotland, it launched the Bikers Welcome scheme and has now linked it to a new search facility on its website. Visitors can scan a database of accommodation in Scotland to identify places that are specifically geared to cater for bikers and their machines. So far, more than 100 accommodation providers have signed up. To be included, establishments must offer additional facilities for bikers including a separate space for drying outdoor clothing and footwear; visor, bike and boot cleaning facilities; a de-grease hand wash; safe storage; and hard standing for bikes. Colin Houston, quality development manager at VisitScotland, helped develop the scheme. "The touring motorcycle market is increasingly valuable as more people, often with quite high levels of disposable income, take up the hobby," he explains. "As well as providing a useful service to bikers coming to Scotland, the scheme also aims to challenge preconceived ideas of bikers that some people may still have." Denny MacKean, one of the owners of the Scarinish Hotel on the Isle of Tiree, was also involved in developing the scheme. "Most of what we do for bikers and other specialist markets is common sense," she says. "We have bikers in the family and we asked bikers who came to stay what would make their trip easier. It's the little things we do that can make such a big difference to someone's trip, such as providing sturdy hangers for heavy biking gear, and shortbread biscuits in the shape of motorbikes on arrival, which are always popular with our biker guests." 9 Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 9 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie THE TELEGRAPH Property in France: C'est la folie By Michael Wright Last Updated: 12:01am GMT 01/11/2007 Waving au revoir to my old life from a window on the Orient Express. Michael Wright reports from rural France Sunday lunchtime: Alice and I arrive at Jolibois station, ready to set off on our brief honeymoon, or "moon of honey" as the French put it. I feel as if I need several weeks of R&R to allow time for some of the tight-wound wedding tension to slip from my humming shoulders. advertisement But there is a limit to how long we can expect my parents to look after the dog, the cat, the Rastafarians and the Egg Squad at La Folie. "Les animaux, c'est l'esclavage," as the locals say. Animals are slavery. Digby is a full-time job and willing parents are a godsend. "May we cross?" I ask the man in the ticket office, pointing at the twin railway tracks between the low-slung platforms. Like many stations in rural France, the one at Jolibois looks like something out of an old cowboy film. The man glances up at his clock, shrugs and nods. And so we pick our way across the tracks and stand waiting for the train, excited as children. When it comes, I recognise it as the streamlined projectile we occasionally see thundering across the level crossing at the bottom of the drive to La Folie. How strange to see it here – a spaceship docked at a gipsy encampment – and to step inside this object we have only ever known as a shape passing by. It feels a bit like climbing into the Concorde prototype at Duxford, only with better upholstery. This thing may be just a local shuttle with a couple of carriages but it looks like a bullet train. It travels at the speed of a bullet, too, albeit a bullet being carried in the mouth of a moderately unfit dog. And – like a dog – it stops in the strangest places to relieve itself of its passengers. I look at my watch. We've allowed plenty of time to make our connection in Paris but at this rate we may not get there until February. Paris at last. And here, amid the grime and the bustle of the Gare de l'Est, at the end of a comically short offcut of red carpet, the polished midnight-blue carriages of the Orient Express stand waiting. Having spent several minutes admiring the polished marquetry in our compartment, fiddling with its polished switches and marvelling at the polished multilingual charm of our steward – who, for reasons of symmetry, I'd love to say was Polish, but actually hails from Estonia – we shuffle down the train's thickly carpeted corridors to the bar car, pretending not to be sneaking peeks into other people's compartments through doors left tantalisingly ajar. After all the mud and sheep muck of La Folie, I cannot help feeling as if I am in the wrong room, what with all this glitz and velvet and taps that don't leak. I also can't help feeling that I should have checked whether my suit still fitted before Alice packed it for me. There's not a lot of call for a dinner jacket in Jolibois. Luckily I'm wearing a waistcoat, too, so I should be able to undo a surreptitious button or two if everything gets a bit snug by the time pudding arrives. Beyond the windows, the lights of French towns flicker past; shooting stars amid the swaying reflections of the antique lamps within. "Look, there's Castorama," we both exclaim, because the sudden appearance of the DIY chain's familiar blue-andyellow sign – a beacon to anyone who has ever attempted to renovate an old house in France – comes as such an exotic surprise when you're sitting in a 1920s railway car, sipping a gin and tonic with your gorgeous wife of precisely 24 hours, in your ever-so-slightly-too-tight glad rags. You'd almost think someone had placed it there as a Surrealist joke, like a Duchamp urinal or an elephant waterskiing down the Grand Canal. These things never seemed beautiful to me before: magnesium-white street lights, haloed with mist; the flickering green cross of a pharmacie. I hold Alice's hand as, behind us, the pianist begins to ripple out something I dimly recognise from my dad's old 1940s song books. And then the illuminated black-and-yellow hoarding of a Hotel Formule 1 flashes by, touting chambres for €21 a night and Canal+ included in the price of your scrubbed-down plastic cell. I stayed in just such a place, in my old life, the night before I found La Folie. How far away it all now seems, just on the other side of this glass. C'est La Folie (Bantam), is Michael Wright's account of how he changed his life. www.lafolie.co.uk 10 Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 10 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie THE NEW YORK TIMES After Stumbling, Mattel Cracks Down in China By LOUISE STORY August 30, 2007 EL SEGUNDO, Calif., Aug. 22 The alarm bell went off for Mattel just as it was preparing to announce that it would recall 1.5 million Chinese-made toys tainted with lead paint. Surrounded by boxes of Barbie dolls, Hot Wheels cars and other sample toys, Thomas A. Debrowski, Mattel's executive vice president for worldwide operations, was leading a tense early morning trans-Pacific telephone conference with his team in Hong Kong, where it was 9 p.m. At the time, recalled Mr. Debrowski, Mattel thought it was dealing with at most "a single failure, from a single vendor who made a big mistake." But in the middle of the meeting on July 30, Mattel learned otherwise. "I've got bad news," interrupted David Lewis, senior vice president for Asian operations, who had just taken a call from the company's safety lab in Shenzhen, China, where toys made by outside companies are tested. "We've had another failure. It was one of the toys in the Pixar cars." That was the moment that threw Mattel into turmoil, forcing the company long considered one of the more successful Western manufacturers in China to recognize that it had more of a systemic problem than simply an isolated case of one bad paint supplier. Now Mattel, which appears to have stumbled in part because it had become overconfident about its ability to operate in China without major problems, is in crisis mode. Toys for the coming holiday shopping season are already shipping across the Pacific, and Mattel wants to catch any other problems that may have slipped through before those toys land on store shelves and cause even greater damage to its reputation. A big problem was that some of Mattel's trusted vendors had turned to cheaper paint suppliers outside the company's approved list. Mattel is now racing to increase its supply and product testing, no longer giving local contractors several months at a time to do the tests themselves. Mattel executives are openly saying that there may be more recalls, if the company finds more problems in its investigation. And Mattel has quietly carted loads of toys and dolls to its own factories in Mexico to recheck the ones that have arrived from Chinese contractors in recent weeks. "We have had recalls every year since I've been here," Robert A. Eckert, Mattel's chief executive, said in an interview at corporate headquarters here. But "the second recall was different; it was going to receive a different level of scrutiny." With its back-to-back recalls, Mattel the world's largest toy maker and the home, among others, of FisherPrice toys, American Girls dolls, Matchbox cars and, of course, Barbie has been pitched into the center of a boiling debate over the safety of products made in China. The ever-growing pile of products recalled this year has sent consumers digging through their pantries and toy chests, scouting for everything from Thomas & Friends toy trains and children's jewelry to toothpaste, dog food and, most recently, SpongeBob SquarePants journals. Wal-Mart recently disclosed that one of the biggest concerns of its shoppers is the safety of toys from China. One mother was so infuriated by the recalls that she brought her children to Mattel headquarters this month with a car full of Mattel toys demanding that the company sort through them to tell her which ones were safe. (Mattel found that all of her toys were fine.) "Mattel is very vulnerable in the short term," said Allen P. Adamson, managing director at Landor Associates, a brand-management firm, "because the spotlight is on them and the China issue is such a hot issue." Mattel has been manufacturing in Asia far longer than many companies (the first Barbie was made there in 1959). That led to long-term relationships with certain Chinese contractors, many spanning decades. Paradoxically, that appears to have contributed to Mattel's problems: the longer it outsourced to a factory supplier with good results, the looser the leash became. During Mr. Eckert's tenure, the company has scaled back the number of companies it uses and the fraction of Mattel toys that they make, but it allowed its more reliable suppliers to do their own regular toy testing with spot tests by Mattel only every three months. The two contractors that caused this month's recalls were among the most trusted. Lee Der Industrial, the supplier involved in the first recall, had worked with Mattel for 15 years. The Early Light Industrial Company, the contractor that made the Sarge cars in the second recall, has supplied toys for 20 years. Mattel first got wind of its China problem in early July when a European retailer discovered lead paint on a toy, leading to Mattel's first recall of 1.5 million toys globally on Aug. 2. Mattel shut its production at Lee Der, which made the 83 different recalled toys. The recall on Aug. 14 was not as large, affecting 436,000 Pixar toy cars, but, combined with a separate recall of millions of toys with tiny magnets that had harmed some children who swallowed them, the blow to Mattel's public reputation was substantial. The Pixar toys were made by yet another contractor, Early Light, which had subcontracted production of the car's roof and tires to a company called Hong Li Da. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 11 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie In both cases, the Chinese companies broke Mattel's rules on what paint they were allowed to use. Mattel has certified only eight paint suppliers. Lee Der bought lead-tainted paint from an uncertified company. Hong Li Da, the subcontractor, used uncertified paint when a tub provided by Early Light ran out. "I think it's the fault of the vendor who didn't follow the procedures that we've been living with for a long time," Mr. Debrowski said.He readily acknowledges the rising costs that companies in China are facing. "In the last three or five years, you've seen labor prices more than double, raw material prices double or triple," he said, "and I think that there's a lot of pressure on guys that are working at the margin to try to save money." But isn't Mattel putting pressure on its vendors to save money? "No, absolutely not," he replied. "We insist that they continue to use certified paint from certified vendors, and we pay for that, and we're perfectly willing to pay for that."On the day of the second recall, Mattel announced a three-point plan that tightened its control of production, cracked down on the unauthorized use of subcontractors and provided for Mattel to test products itself, rather than rely on its contractors. The plan also included testing every batch of paint. "We do realize the need for increased vigilance, increased surveillance," Jim Walter, who reports to Mr. Debrowski on quality assurance, said on the day of the announcement. Mattel makes its best-known toys, like Barbie dolls, in its own 12 factories. But even as it has increased the share of toys it makes itself to about half, it still relies on roughly 30 to 40 vendors to make the other half. Mattel now realizes it was not watching those companies closely enough, executives here said. Mattel vetted the contractors, but it did not fully understand the extent to which some had in turn subcontracted to other companies which in turn had subcontracted to even more. Mattel required its vendors to list subcontractors, so Mattel could visit them, but Mattel is investigating whether that procedure has been followed. A number of companies whose factories Mattel had never visited may have had a hand in making the toys that were shipped around the world. Out of the public eye, Mattel is cleaning house. The company has fired four subcontractors and is evaluating more. Mattel also moved to enforce a rule that subcontractors cannot hire two and three layers of suppliers below them. Mattel executives in Hong Kong are trying to figure out how many subcontractors became part of its lineup. Mattel's Hong Kong office is also investigating to find a common thread among the lead recalls in China. Mattel has 200 full-time employees devoted to supervising and training Chinese contractors but the Mattel employees are not stationed permanently at those factories. As part of its effort to rebuild its image, Mattel is emphasizing that it is less dependent on Chinese contractors than most toy makers. It has run ads around the world featuring Mr. Eckert's vow to do better." There aren't many companies that own their own factories," Mr. Eckert said in an interview in his office, "and there aren't many companies that manufacture outside of China." Mattel closed its last American factory, originally part of the Fisher-Price division, in 2002. The bulk of its products have long been made in Asia. In the 1980s, Mattel decided to take more control of its core products, like Barbie and Hot Wheels cars, and built and purchased several factories. About 65 percent of Mattel products are made in China now. Or, as a Mattel executive rephrased it, more than a third of Mattel toys are made outside of China. Many Barbie dolls, for example, are produced in Indonesia. Mattel executives showed off a factory in Tijuana, Mexico, escorting a reporter to demonstrate a safety lab with drop machines, temperature checks, not to mention tests for lead in paint. Fisher-Price's Little People houses as well as Barbie playhouses are made there, largely because shipping costs from Asia for larger products add too much to the cost. Mattel plans to buy large numbers of a portable lead detector that can be used in all its factories as well as those of its contractors. In the last few weeks, the safety lab in Tijuana has been used to double-check the work of Mattel's Chinese suppliers. "It's to make absolutely sure this issue is behind us," Mr. Eckert said in his office, surrounded by portraits of Barbie by artists like Andy Warhol and Peter Max. Mr. Eckert has improved the company's financial performance, but, looking back, he is happy that he resisted calls from analysts early in his tenure to sell off Mattel's 12 factories and outsource all production. When he lectures at business schools, Mr. Eckert often cites Johnson & Johnson's 1982 recall of Tylenol as an example of how to do things right and recover from an initial disaster. "It is a great example of building trust," he said. "It became kind of a personal mission of the C.E.O. at the time, saying, 'Here is the problem, here is what we're doing.' And it was clear that it really was not about the money." Mattel's costs of doing business, he acknowledges, will go up with the additional level of testing. But the price, he says, will be worth it. Mr. Eckert also has a new addition to the shelf behind his desk. Next to a portrait of his 16-year-old daughter is Sarge, the army-green toy jeep that Mattel recalled last week. Mr. Debrowski, Mattel's head of manufacturing, also keeps Sarge on his desk. "Just to remember, you know," he said. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 12 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Published in the Business section on August 29, 2007. 11 THE TELEGRAPH Christmas dinner: Turkey without tears Glenda Cooper had never cooked Christmas dinner - until TV chef Mary Berry showed her the five easy steps to kitchen perfection "Well, dear," says the author of 65 bestselling cookery books, "if the worst comes to the worst, at least on Christmas day everyone will have had a drink. So they won't be as fussy as usual." Berry is coming to terms with the fact that I have never cooked Christmas dinner. I am not alone. A survey last year revealed that 15 million women try to avoid cooking the Christmas meal. Given that another survey calculated that the blowout takes nine hours to prepare, can you blame us? But still, it takes dedication to have never done it. Years of ingenuity, in fact. Working the 6am-2pm shift on the 25th one year. Arranging a family skiing holiday on another. I even got married just before Christmas, which gave me another year's get out-of jail-free card. Now, finally, I have run out of excuses. So I have turned to Berry to save me from humiliation. My request is simple: teach a Christmas ingénue, with no natural talent, how to prepare canapés, main course, pudding and leftovers on Christmas Day. Any easy solutions, short cuts or flashy diversions gratefully accepted. advertisement Berry, whom Anthony Worrall Thompson once described as the "most competitive chef" he knew, and who claims never to have had a Christmas dinner go wrong, assures me she is up to the challenge. Together we boil the day down to five infallible tips. "You want to be with your family at Christmas - going to church, opening presents, all the loveliness of the day," says Berry. "This will ensure you will." Armed with her five tips, and patient coaching, I am sure I will. I'm just not sure whether my family will want to spend the day with me once they realise I'm cooking. MARY BERRY'S SURVIVAL TIPS Be prepared Christmas Day should not begin at 4.30am with a worried cook slaving over the stove, says Berry. I don't have the heart to tell her the worried cook is more likely to be hiding under the duvet. Her solution: do as much as possible the day before: deal with the stuffing, potatoes, mulled wine and chocolate roulade. My heart sinks. How are you meant to do the last-minute rush for your brother's present if you're cooking? Distract your guests My theory is if my guests eat enough canapés, they may not notice if the turkey is three hours late. But I cannot think of anything worse than fiddling around with nouvelle cuisine-type dainties when I could be getting stuck in to the mulled wine. Berry suggests her ultra-simple Parma ham twist: take slices of ham, remove the fat, spread with goats cheese, add a sprig of rocket and roll up. It tastes delicious, looks impressive and takes all of three minutes from start to finish. Bingo. Keep it simple The turkey is the centrepiece of the meal and the downfall of most cooks. Berry is determined to make mine foolproof. Forget trussing it up, she says: "It's so boring. I don't mend socks so why should I start sewing with a needle and thread over Christmas? Without trussing the heat can also reach the centre more quickly." She rejects placing the turkey breast side down to start off with, turning half-way through. "It's nonsense. It's Christmas Day, you're nervous, you've got a drink in your right hand, the bird is big and heavy. Fat ends up on the floor; talk to hospitals and see how many people end up there on Christmas Day." Instead, concentrate on making sure the bird doesn't end up dry and overcooked. "Baste it from time to time. Keep it loosely covered with foil until you come to brown it towards the end of the cooking process. And use a meat thermometer: the temperature inside the turkey should be 75-80C; 90C is too high - it gives a dry result and overcooks the meat." All straightforward. But I'm not out of the woods yet. To serve a 14lb bird (you should allow 1-1.5lb per person if you want leftovers) at 2pm, you must get up at 7.40am. This gives you enough time to take the bird out of the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Place in a pre-heated oven for 40 mins at 220C/Fan 200C, Gas 7, before reducing the heat to 160C/140C Fan and Gas 3 and cook for 3.5 hours, before a final blast at 220C for half an hour to crisp the skin. Remove and allow to rest for half an hour. Not surprisingly, Berry swears the best present a cook can be given is a ''pinger" - an electronic timer. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 13 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie For the nightmare of carving remember two words: your husband. Sorry: sawing action. Take off the leg, get the knife as close to the bird's breast as possible and saw back and forth. Simple as that. Impress with subtle twists Ringing the changes with vegetables is a sure way of making out you are a better cook, says Berry. Cut the Brussel sprouts in half, boil them and then toss in melted butter and pine nuts. Serve dauphinoise rather than roast potatoes and a chocolate roulade instead of Christmas pud. Berry's tip is to underwhip the cream for the filling - she uses a fabulous retro navy blue Kitchen Aid food mixer but any electric whisk will do. Berry has no problems with rolling up the roulade. "It cracks whatever you do - that's part of the charm!" she says with chirpy assurance. "Think of it like a Catherine Wheel. Score a mark about an inch in along the short edge and use greaseproof paper to help you roll it up." No-stress leftovers Berry always advises to get a turkey rather than a goose because "there's nothing left on the goose and you don't want to be starting from scratch". She suggests her simple Five-Spice Mango Turkey for Boxing Day. "This is perfect: light and fresh and there is not a drop of mayonnaise in sight. Not that you should be thinking about calories on Christmas Day." This is the one dish I feel confident about. It involves whizzing mangos, peppadew peppers, mango chutney, Greek yoghurt, spices and Tabasco sauce in a processor for 20 seconds. I nick my finger with one of Berry's fearsome knives, and nearly knock the peppadews on the floor but nothing else goes wrong. I think I may have got the hang of this Christmas malarkey. After a full day chez Berry, I have no fears about the canapés or leftover spicy Turkey dish. The stuffing looks fairly straightforward. I will set three alarms to get up for 7.40am (or perhaps, get my husband to do so). As for the chocolate roulade, forget it, I'm buying mince pies. I thank Berry for her time, eat a final piece of roulade, and put on my coat to leave. Her Kitchen Aid suddenly emits a large bang and smoke starts wisping out of it. I swear I didn't touch it. 12 THE NEW YORK TIMES Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail. By NIKO KOPPEL August 31, 2007 JAMARCUS MARSHALL, a 17-year-old high school sophomore in Mansfield, La., believes that no one should be able to tell him how low to wear his jeans. "It's up to the person who's wearing the pants," he said. Mr. Marshall's sagging pants, a style popularized in the early 1990s by hip-hop artists, are becoming a criminal offense in a growing number of communities, including his own. Starting in Louisiana, an intensifying push by lawmakers has determined pants worn low enough to expose underwear poses a threat to the public, and they have enacted indecency ordinances to stop it. Since June 11, sagging pants have been against the law in Delcambre, La., a town of 2,231 that is 80 miles southwest of Baton Rouge. The style carries a fine of as much as $500 or up to a six-month sentence. "We used to wear long hair, but I don't think our trends were ever as bad as sagging," said Mayor Carol Broussard. An ordinance in Mansfield, a town of 5,496 near Shreveport, subjects offenders to a fine (as much as $150 plus court costs) or jail time (up to 15 days). Police Chief Don English said the law, which takes effect Sept. 15, will set a good civic image. Behind the indecency laws may be the real issue the hip-hop style itself, which critics say is worn as a badge of delinquency, with its distinctive walk conveying thuggish swagger and a disrespect for authority. Also at work is the larger issue of freedom of expression and the questions raised when fashion moves from being merely objectionable to illegal. Sagging began in prison, where oversized uniforms were issued without belts to prevent suicide and their use as weapons. The style spread through rappers and music videos, from the ghetto to the suburbs and around the world. Efforts to outlaw sagging in Virginia and statewide in Louisiana in 2004, failed, usually when opponents invoked a right to self-expression. But the latest legislative efforts have taken a different tack, drawing on indecency laws, and their success is inspiring lawmakers in other states. In the West Ward of Trenton, Councilwoman Annette Lartigue is drafting an ordinance to fine or enforce community service in response to what she sees as the problem of exposing private parts in public. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 14 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie "It's a fad like hot pants; however, I think it crosses the line when a person shows their backside," Ms. Lartigue said. "You can't legislate how people dress, but you can legislate when people begin to become indecent by exposing their body parts." The American Civil Liberties Union has been steadfast in its opposition to dress restrictions. Debbie Seagraves, the executive director of the A.C.L.U. of Georgia said, "I don't see any way that something constitutional could be crafted when the intention is to single out and label one style of dress that originated with the black youth culture, as an unacceptable form of expression." School districts have become more aggressive in enforcing dress bans, as the courts have given them greater latitude. Restrictions have been devised for jeans, miniskirts, long hair, piercing, logos with drug references and gang-affiliated clothing including colors, hats and jewelry. Dress codes are showing up in unexpected places. The National Basketball Association now stipulates that no sports apparel, sunglasses, headgear, exposed chains or medallions may be worn at league-sponsored events. After experiencing a brawl that spilled into the stands and generated publicity headaches, the league sought to enforce a business-casual dress code, saying that hip-hop clothing projected an image that alienated middle-class audiences. According to Andrew Bolton, the curator at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, fashions tend to be decried when they "challenge the conservative morality of a society." Not since the zoot suit has a style been greeted with such strong disapproval. The exaggerated boxy long coat and tight-cuffed pants, started in the 1930s, was the emblematic style of a subculture of young urban minorities. It was viewed as unpatriotic and flouted a fabric conservation order during World War II. The clothing was at the center of what were called Zoot Suit Riots in Los Angeles, racially motivated beatings of Hispanic youths by sailors. The youths were stripped of their garments, which were burned in the street. Following a pattern of past fashion bans, the sagging prohibitions are seen by some as racially motivated because the wearers are young, predominantly African-American men. Yet, this legislation has been proposed largely by African-American officials. It may speak to a generation gap. Michael Eric Dyson, a professor of sociology at Georgetown University and the author of "Know What I Mean?: Reflections on Hip Hop," said, "They've bought the myth that sagging pants represents an offensive lifestyle which leads to destructive behavior." Last week, Atlanta Councilman C. T. Martin sponsored an amendment to the city's indecency laws to ban sagging, which he called an epidemic. "We are trying to craft a remedy," said Mr. Martin, who sees the problem as "a prison mentality." But Larry Harris, Jr., 28, a musician from Miami, who stood in oversize gear outside a hip-hop show in Times Square, denied that prison style was his inspiration. "I think what you have here is people who don't understand the language of hip-hop," he said. A dress code ordinance proposed in Stratford, Conn., by Councilman Alvin O'Neal was rejected at a Town Council meeting last Monday, drawing criticism that the law was unconstitutional and unjustly encouraged racial profiling. Many residents agreed that the town had more pressing issues. Benjamin Chavis, the former executive director of the N.A.A.C.P., said, "I think to criminalize how a person wears their clothing is more offensive than what the remedy is trying to do." Dr. Chavis, who is often pictured in an impeccable suit and tie among the baggy outfits of the hip-hop elite, is a chairman of the Hip Hop Summit Action Network, a coalition he founded with the music mogul Russell Simmons. He said that the coalition will challenge the ordinances in court. "The focus should be on cleaning up the social conditions that the sagging pants comes out of," he said. "That they wear their pants the way they do is a statement of the reality that they're struggling with on a dayto-day basis." Published in the Styles section on August 30, 2007. 13 THE NEW YORK TIMES MTV Aims to Return to Its Days of Glory September 7, 2007 Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced By JEFF LEEDS Agata Adamska 15 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie The singer Lily Allen and Tim Cash of MTV announcing Video Music Award nominees last month at a hotel pool in Las Vegas. LOS ANGELES, Sept. 5 Pop culture oddsmakers might have trouble figuring out who faces a tougher road on the comeback trail: Britney Spears or the television giant that helped vault her to stardom, MTV. Both will be trying to recapture better days on Sunday as the music network shows its annual presentation of the Video Music Awards. After reigning as a primary tastemaker for years, MTV lately has suffered some stumbles (though, unlike Ms. Spears's, they haven't become paparazzi fodder). For one thing, critics say the Video Music Awards, intended as a raucous counterpoint to more staid ceremonies, has become stale itself; the show has endured a four-year ratings slump, including a 28 percent drop last year. Another issue is the channel's slow response to the explosion of video and social networking online. Music fans are regularly watching music videos on its Web site, mtv.com, which drew about 8.5 million visitors in July. But Yahoo's music service, which has long showcased videos, attracted 23 million, and MySpace's music site drew more than 21 million. To many, the missteps have meant that MTV for once has had trouble keeping up with the shifts in how young fans live, watch and consume. "They were the innovators, and now they're kind of a step behind," said Laura Caraccioli-Davis, executive vice president of entertainment for the media-buying firm Starcom MediaVest. "The brands that are talking to this audience are forced to innovate every day. MTV stayed still for a second too long." In response, MTV executives are doing what people do when they're hungry for a quick change in fortune: they are heading to Las Vegas. This year's Video Music Awards will be shown live from the Palms Casino Resort (where MTV also recorded a recent season of its reality series "The Real World") and will be substantially revamped. Instead of the usual production built on a single stage, MTV is taking a shotgun approach, scattering cameras around the hotel, with artists performing and receiving awards in decorated suites and the hotel's own concert hall. MTV has also shortened the show to two hours, packing in performances by artists like Fall Out Boy, 50 Cent and a resurgent Ms. Spears, who will perform her new single, "Gimme More." MTV has a big stack of chips on the table this year. In shaking up its showcase event, the channel is not only aiming to reverse declines in the awards show's viewership, but also to generate buzz about several new efforts to connect with tech-savvy young viewers drawn to upstart brands like YouTube. The show's loss of cachet has paralleled the overall decline of the recording industry, which has long relied on exposing its artists to mass audiences to rack up platinum sales. As a result, MTV may be saddled with the burden of trying to extract a wide audience from a splintered market where no genre is king. "There isn't any one movement right now, but rather this gigantic appetite for all things music," said Amy Doyle, MTV's senior vice president of music and talent. "The key is being everywhere, but being everywhere in the way the audience wants." MTV's own correspondents, as well as fans at the awards show, will snap candid camera-phone moments and post them on a new area of MTV's Web site called "You R Here." The most compelling photos or video recordings from Las Vegas may be presented during the channel's news segments. Eventually, the site could blossom into MTV's answer to YouTube. MTV has its own take on computer-animated "virtual" worlds as well. Even before the awards show takes place, fans can go "in-world" through mtv.com and tour the Palms' suites and, on Saturday, see performances by computerized re-creations of acts including Boys Like Girls and Peter, Bjorn & John. Television viewers will see big changes too. To start, there will be only one presentation of the awards program in its original form. In a departure from MTV's practice of plastering the channel with repeat showings, programmers this year are hoping to attract interest with alternate versions. The first will be shown with running commentary from celebrities at the show who will chat about their favorite moments. The next will replace portions of the original with previously unshown performances or other moments chosen by visitors to MTV's Web site. (Visitors to mtv.com are expected to be able to view and choose from unseen performances in the Palms suites and other events recorded in Las Vegas before the broadcast.) MTV plans a third iteration that will highlight the strongest musical performances. Dave Sirulnick, MTV's executive producer for the event, said the idea was to add unusual moments to keep viewers of the first show coming back. "Even if you saw it and loved it and watched every moment of it, there's still more to see," he said. For MTV, whose schedule is thick with dating and reality shows like "The Hills," the awards show also coincides with an effort to raise its stature as a music tastemaker. One of the biggest initiatives, though, has nothing to do with television programming, let alone music videos. It is Rock Band, a much-buzzed-about game from the MTV-owned game developer Harmonix that lets players perform famous songs with mock instruments. MTV has been coy about its plans for marketing Rock Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 16 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Band, but a version of it will be set up this weekend in the Palms suite where Fall Out Boy is to perform, and who knows? it might accidentally end up on camera. There is also a new effort to introduce up-and-coming performers to MTV's general audience during commercial breaks. In the 52/52 campaign, MTV spotlights one new act each week by featuring it in skits or short performances during the channel's promotions of its own programs. In the first few weeks participants like Paramore and Rodrigo y Gabriela have seen their album sales rise after exposure in the ads, sometimes referred to as bumpers. "Is someone seeing a bumper going to make them buy the record?" said Bob McLynn, whose talent management firm represents acts including Fall Out Boy. "Definitely not. If you combine that with maybe they heard it on the radio, maybe they saw the whole video someplace else, all that combines. It's all about impressions. There's still something to putting a face to the music, and that's what MTV can do for you." Published in the Arts section on September 6, 2007. 14 THE NEW YORK TIMES In the Bronx, a Film School With a Down-to-the-Ghetto Name By BEN SISARIO September 14, 2007 David O. Russell, director of “Three Kings” and “I ♥ Huckabees,” talks with students in the Ghetto Film School. It was in many ways a typical film-school scene. On a recent hot afternoon, a group of eager young students crowded around a big-time director, asking for advice about backlighting and the best way to establish a scene of anarchy. But the students quizzing David O. Russell, the director of "Three Kings" and "I ♥ Huckabees," weren't enrolled at New York University or Columbia or any other august institution. They were from the Ghetto Film School, an unaccredited training program in the South Bronx that operates in the summer and on weekends during the school year. It gives teenagers a rigorous introduction to filmmaking and, despite the humblest of origins, has built up an enviable roster of Hollywood donors and supporters inside city government. Since early July the school's 19 students, ranging in age from 14 to 20, have been studying the likes of Antonioni and John Huston, running through camera exercises and working on six-minute films in two cramped classrooms in a city recreation center in Mott Haven, where the ceilings periodically thump with the sounds of the weight room directly overhead. The school's ambitions, however, reach far beyond the ghetto. Tonight the students' work will be shown at Lincoln Center. And the school is opening a spacious annex near its original location, financed by a $1.2 million grant from the city. Ghetto Film is also working with the Department of Education to develop a cinema-themed high school that would join the elite ranks of specialized schools like the La Guardia High School for the arts. The heart of the Ghetto Film School is Joe Hall, 43, a former Bronx social worker who left for Los Angeles in 1999 to follow his cinematic dreams. He enrolled in the graduate film program at the University of Southern California, but quickly became disillusioned: The students were almost all white and wealthy, and most had family connections to the movie business. The smart, talented children he knew from his socialwork days, he said, seemed completely shut out of this world. "I thought, 'We need to get the kids of the South Bronx into these places,' " Mr. Hall said. Returning to the Bronx, he opened the Ghetto Film School in a Hunts Point storefront in the summer of 2000. From the beginning his methods were contrarian. The school was in the impoverished and crimescarred South Bronx, but students were admitted based on enthusiasm and aptitude, not economic need. The origins of the school's name indicate the students' hunger to be challenged. When he was designing the course, Mr. Hall asked a group of neighborhood teenagers what they would want in a film school. "One said, 'I don't want to come into a place and find out someone is trying to raise my self-esteem,' " Mr. Hall said. "Another said, 'Yeah, it's not like we want a ghetto film school.' Everyone started laughing, and I thought, 'What if we could co-opt a negative term and throw it back out there, do the exact opposite?' " Not everyone loves the name. "It's sort of limiting," the director Jim Jarmusch said with a slight wince after his Ghetto Film lecture last month. But he added: "It's not the name that attracted me. It's the fact that here's another place for new blood." And the name does capture the street-smart pragmatism that the school encourages. "We steal shots," said Alvy Johnson, a 24-year-old former student now in Columbia's graduate film program, referring to the practice of shooting without proper permits. "That Ghetto Film guerrilla style, it pumps you up." Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 17 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie For the first few years the school operated as a summer course with a budget of up to $40,000. But after Mr. Russell found out about it through a chance encounter with a former Ghetto Film staff member, its fortunes changed. Intrigued, Mr. Russell joined the school's board and became its rainmaker. "Everyone in Hollywood should tithe," Mr. Russell said. "So I went around with a basket to the studio I was working with, and I got my filmmaker friends to be on the board." Among those filmmaker friends who donate to Ghetto Film or lecture there are Spike Jonze, Harvey Weinstein, Sofia Coppola and Mr. Jarmusch. The school, a nonprofit, has expanded to operate year-round, with a budget of just under $1 million. Focused on narrative storytelling no documentaries allowed the Ghetto Film curriculum begins with an intensive nine-week summer course; students are paid a stipend of $500 through grants from the city and corporate sponsors. They return in the fall, on weekends and after school, to study the basic structure of the film industry. In the spring they collaborate on a short film, which is shot in foreign locations, to which they travel as a group. So far Ghetto Film trips have included Paris, Mexico City and Germany. Students come from throughout the city, though the majority are from the Bronx. Most are minorities, and many are poor. At their session with Mr. Russell, they took turns delivering quick pitches for their sixminute movies. Most were typical teenage stories of romantic angst and family tensions. But others had harsher themes, like Theresa Dilworth's "Reap the Reapers" (gang violence), Brian Neris's "Last Gift" (police violence) and Nia Fields's "Moments in Love," which features a self-performed abortion. And for some students, the idea of ghetto life is all too real. Ariel Morales, a 17-year-old who lives on the Lower East Side, said he wanted Ghetto Film to help lift him out of a cycle of poverty and crime. "I just want to be successful and break that code that my family has," he said, "the code of not going nowhere." The long-term goal for the Ghetto Film School, Mr. Hall said, is to shepherd students from an early age through college and into a professional career. The school finds work for the students as interns or production assistants on films, and it has a production company for graduates, Digital Bodega. The city's $1.2 million grant will pay for professional-grade editing equipment for Digital Bodega at its new space, a loft in the southernmost tip of the Bronx. Ghetto Film already works with a nearby city school, the New Explorers High School for Film and Humanities, assisting faculty members and operating after-school programs. And if its proposal is accepted by the Department of Education, a cinema high school could open as early as 2009. Planned for 600 students, the new institution would screen applicants according to academic criteria yet to be determined, Education Department officials said. Mr. Hall said that in addition to a core curriculum of standard academic subjects, the school would offer electives like screenwriting, film history and production. The proposal has not yet been accepted, but Education officials say they have been working closely with Mr. Hall on the plan. Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg has promised to create more elite public schools, and several have already opened, though some critics say another specialized high school is not what the city's 1.1 million students most need. "A cinema school would provide a more targeted, artistic-focused school that's in a discipline that we know is of interest to kids," said Garth Harries, who heads the Education Department's Office of New Schools. "And we know that the partners, the Ghetto Film School folks, have a really strong track record of working on projects in the film industry, particularly with minority kids." If the proposal is accepted and the school is created, Mr. Hall might remain as an adviser, but would not be its principal. Ghetto Film would remain a separate organization and continue to teach filmmaking to young people in the Bronx. Part of its success in attracting donors and supporters, film executives say, is attributable to the industry's self-interest in making its talent pool more diverse. And Hollywood is always searching for new stories. "There's a history of the ghetto producing things that seep into the popular culture," said Evan Shapiro, general manager of the Independent Film Channel and a board member of the school. "That is what is represented at Ghetto Film School. There's something that the Bronx can give to the world." Published in the Arts section on September 13, 2007. 15 THE TELEGRAPH Property in France: C'est la folie by Michael Wright Last Updated: 12:01am GMT 03/11/2007 Married and gondola'd all in the same week. Michael Wright reports from rural France Climbing down from the Orient Express on to the platform of Venice's St Lucia Station is a bit like emerging, blinking, from a cinema at the end of a film. It's a bit of a blow to find that real life has been going on as grubbily as ever while your back was turned. There is luggage everywhere and cart-loads of suitcases Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 18 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie are being wheeled up and down the dusty platform by yelling porters. Five minutes ago, a phalanx of uniformed staff were catering to whims Alice and I didn't even know we had. Now we are on our own: Mr and Mrs Nobody once more. But then we wander out of the station and come face to face with the Grand Canal laid out like a giant Canaletto beneath a silver-grey sky, with shimmering churches and domes reflected in its boat-strewn waters. I think it's fair to say that you don't get quite the same sense of coming face-to-face with London at Waterloo Station, or with Paris at the Gare Montparnasse. But here, right here, is the Venice for which the traveller dares to hope as he leafs through his guidebook at home. I battle with my cheapskate's instinct to wait for a vaporetto to chug us up the canal into the heart of Venice. For today we are on honeymoon and, on honeymoon, special spending rules apply. As in, there aren't any. So we stroll to the water-taxi jetty and are helped into one of those sleek wooden craft that is 10 per cent timber, 10 per cent chrome and 80 per cent yacht varnish - and can only be piloted by men with exceedingly expensive sunglasses. This is a journey I shall always remember, this water-taxi ride through Venice at dusk with my new wife. I shall remember it not for the twinkling lights reflected in the waters of the Grand Canal that make me feel a million miles from La Folie, nor for the finely-pierced stonework of the Ca d'Oro, intricate as lace. No, I shall remember it for the seabird that pulls up from a Stuka-type dive, just as we are rounding the Salute, and lands something it ate for lunch - splitchhh! - slap-bang on my suitcase with a sound like a highspeed collision between a pair of whelks. Suddenly I'm right back at La Folie, attempting to shoo the chickens out of the door because one of them has jettisoned her bombs on the step. Except that now we're at the boat-jetty of our hotel - the jewel-like Ca' Maria Adele, just across the water from St Mark's - and a sparkling little man in a suit is greeting us. I do my best to point out the seabird's work and shake his hand, all at the same time, when he simply leans across and - too soon for me, too late for him - grabs the suitcase in both hands. We stare at each other for a second, smiles locked, and then I see his fixed grin begin to droop, like an ice cream falling off a stick. "I'm so sorry," I say, in English. "A bird..." He glances down at his hand, purses his lips and shrugs. "In Venice," he sighs, "we say this is good luck." And I'm sure he would say exactly the same thing if, right now, I just happened to fall overboard. So follow four days in which we attempt to unwind from our wedding in a world which, seabirds excepted, feels far-removed from the rugged pleasures of La Folie. Until today, for instance, I have never been particularly tempted to ride in a gondola, just as I have never wanted to own my own Rolex or go on an expensive cruise to the Bahamas. It always seemed a clichéd, touristy thing to do, at a price aimed at people far more wealthy, credulous or Japanese than me. Mind you, I never expected to get married, either, and now look at me. Married and gondola'd, all in the same week. Neophyte that I am, I can recommend both experiences. And as we glide down the narrow canals, with the water whispering alongside our boat, the oar of the gondolier occasionally plashing behind us and the echoes of his mournful cries bouncing off the ancient stonework, I feel so glad to be here, inside this perfect moment. Transported into the past, I feel more-than-usually present. Abroad as we are, I feel utterly at home. Sometimes things may become clichés simply because they were right all along. # www.lafolie.co.uk 16 THE TELEGRAPH Lesbian parents can both be called mother By Rebecca Smith, Medical Editor The concept of a two-mother family is to be enshrined in law for the first time. Lesbian parents can both be called mother Experts say the new bill marks a historic change in how a family is legally defined Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 19 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie The Human Tissues and Embryos Bill, to be announced in the Queen's Speech next week, will give both women in a lesbian relationship the legal status of parents when one of them gives birth following fertility treatment. Experts say this marks a historic change in how a family is legally defined. The change was condemned by family campaigners as a "dangerous social experiment" but supporters said it was "logical and just". The Bill lays down that where two women are in a relationship and one has fertility treatment in order to conceive then the partner should be treated as the other "parent" even if they are not in a civil partnership. In those circumstances no man — such as the sperm donor — can be treated as a father, the Bill says, to avoid a child having three legal parents. advertisement The change reflects the fact that in a heterosexual couple when the woman is inseminated with donor sperm the man is treated as the father even though he has no biological link to the resulting child. Male gay couples who have children via surrogate mothers or by adoption are not covered by the new legislation. The Bill says that where there is reference to the father of a child such as on birth certificates this is to be read as reference to the female parent who did not give birth. It will also say for the first time that babies born through fertility treatment do not need to have a father figure and parents will be banned from choosing the sex of their child. Campaigners said there was no substitute for a family unit in which children are brought up with input from both mother and father. Norman Wells, of the Family Education Trust, said it was a dangerous social experiment. "Men and women are not interchangeable and fathers are not an optional extra." Dr Anthony Cole, the chairman of the Medical Ethics Alliance, said: "It doesn't seem right for the child not to have a father. There's strong evidence that children, particularly boys, need a male influence in their lives." Bishops are concerned over the issue. The Bishop of Winchester, the Rt Rev Michael Scott-Joynt, said in August, "Is it right for the state to construct a system to bring children into this world without making provision for their having a father? "The Bill should be looking at how it can champion the role of fathers in the context of fertility treatment more effectively." Susan Freeborn, a barrister specialising in child law, said the change would cause problems when civil partnerships break down. "The mother of a child has always had unique status in the past but now there will be two. It will be difficult then to determine which of the 'mothers' is the most important." Ruth Hunt, of the gay rights charity Stonewall, said: "This recognises that lots of gay people have children and make very good parents." If passed, the Bill will also allow children born from donor sperm or eggs to have limited access to information about other children from the same donor. Information appearing on telegraph.co.uk is the copyright of Telegraph Media Group Limited and must not be reproduced in any medium without licence. For the full copyright statement see Copyright 17 THE NEW YORK TIMES Languages Die, but Not Their Last Words By JOHN NOBLE WILFORD September 20, 2007 Living Tongues Institute for Endangered Languages In Bolivia, Ilaryon Ramos Condori knows a secret tongue that is used mainly for preserving knowledge of medicinal plants. Of the estimated 7,000 languages spoken in the world today, linguists say, nearly half are in danger of extinction and likely to disappear in this century. In fact, one falls out of use about every two weeks. Some languages vanish in an instant, at the death of the sole surviving speaker. Others are lost gradually in bilingual cultures, as indigenous tongues are overwhelmed by the dominant language at school, in the marketplace and on television. New research, reported yesterday, has found the five regions where languages are disappearing most rapidly: northern Australia, central South America, North America’s upper Pacific coastal zone, eastern Siberia, and Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 20 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Oklahoma and the southwestern United States. All have indigenous people speaking diverse languages, in falling numbers. The study was based on field research and data analysis supported by the National Geographic Society and the Living Tongues Institute for Endangered Languages. The findings are described in the October issue of National Geographic and at languagehotspots.org. In a teleconference with reporters yesterday, K. David Harrison, an associate professor of linguistics at Swarthmore, said that more than half the languages had no written form and were ‘vulnerable to loss and being forgotten.’ Their loss leaves no dictionary, no text, no record of the accumulated knowledge and history of a vanished culture. Beginning what is expected to be a long-term project to identify and record endangered languages, Dr. Harrison has traveled to many parts of the world with Gregory D. S. Anderson, director of the Living Tongues Institute, in Salem, Ore., and Chris Rainier, a filmmaker with the National Geographic Society. The researchers, focusing on distinct oral languages, not dialects, interviewed and made recordings of the few remaining speakers of a language and collected basic word lists. The individual projects, some lasting three to four years, involve hundreds of hours of recording speech, developing grammars and preparing children‘s readers in the obscure language. The research has concentrated on preserving entire language families. In Australia, where nearly all the 231 spoken tongues are endangered, the researchers came upon three known speakers of Magati Ke in the Northern Territory, and three Yawuru speakers in Western Australia. In July, Dr. Anderson said, they met the sole speaker of Amurdag, a language in the Northern Territory that had been declared extinct. ‘This is probably one language that cannot be brought back, but at least we made a record of it, Dr. Anderson said, noting that the Aborigine who spoke it strained to recall words he had heard from his father, now dead. Many of the 113 languages in the region from the Andes Mountains into the Amazon basin are poorly known and are giving way to Spanish or Portuguese, or in a few cases, a more dominant indigenous language. In this area, for example, a group known as the Kallawaya use Spanish or Quechua in daily life, but also have a secret tongue mainly for preserving knowledge of medicinal plants, some previously unknown to science. ‘How and why this language has survived for more than 400 years, while being spoken by very few, is a mystery,’ Dr. Harrison said in a news release. The dominance of English threatens the survival of the 54 indigenous languages in the Northwest Pacific plateau, a region including British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. Only one person remains who knows Siletz Dee-ni, the last of many languages once spoken on a reservation in Oregon. In eastern Siberia, the researchers said, government policies have forced speakers of minority languages to use the national and regional languages, like Russian or Sakha. Forty languages are still spoken in Oklahoma, Texas and New Mexico, many of them originally used by Indian tribes and others introduced by Eastern tribes that were forced to resettle on reservations, mainly in Oklahoma. Several of the languages are moribund. Another measure of the threat to many relatively unknown languages, Dr. Harrison said, is that 83 languages with global influence are spoken and written by 80 percent of the world population. Most of the others face extinction at a rate, the researchers said, that exceeds that of birds, mammals, fish and plants. Published in the International section on September 19, 2007. 18 THE TELEGRAPH Living in France: The English Trap Moving your family to France is a big step. Jon Doust on what happens when life across the Channel turns out to be not what you expected. It was Kerry who gave it a name: "People move to France having sold up in the UK, buy a big, fabulous, house that needs work and have around 70,000 euros to do it. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 21 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie "The problem is that money just disappears here, then they can't manage in France and they just find themselves stuck. I call it the English Trap." It is by no means clear just how many Britons are currently living in France, but some sources suggest as many as 500,000. Unexpected challenge: How to keep your children amused when there is insufficient time or money for them to pursue their favourite hobbies is a problem some parents may not have anticipated It is even less clear what kind of turnover is going on, but, judging from anecdote, perhaps as many as half of new arrivals last less than two years here before either moving on or returning to the UK. Treacle-slow pace of rural life The reasons vary, but usually involve difficulties with the language, a failure to integrate into wider French society, problems with children's schooling, boredom with the treacle-slow pace of rural life and an inability to earn a living. Some people downshifting discover that the "poverty" bit of "genteel poverty" is rather less romantic and rather more complicated than perhaps they first realised; others find that France simply "isn't what they expected". Kerry and Jimmy are going home in this month. They arrived in France a year ago, swapping a three-bed semi on Canvey Island for a big beautiful house with exposed beams and solid oak floors in the boarder area between the Charente and the Haut-Vienne, not too far from the city of Limoges. With their two daughters – Molly, 11, and Mabel, 4 – Kerry and Jimmy looked forward to a simpler life in the French countryside. But their knowledge of the area, garnered from having owned a holiday home there for two years previously, did not fully prepare them for the reality of life in this idyllic setting. They quickly established a gardening business: Jimmy had been a landscape gardener in the UK before starting his own courier service and he returned to this enterprise in France. This proved to be hard work: choosing to be properly registered as a business in France – and therefore liable for both tax and challenging social charges – they found themselves competing for customers against expatriate Brits happy to work "on the black" and easily able to undercut their rates. They knew that the work from their one steady client would end in autumn. Although this would not in itself have been a reason to move back, it was an important consideration. Reality bites Although not as costly as the UK – roughly, one euro has the purchasing power of £1, which is why things can sometimes look so good when one is on holiday – life in France is not cheap. The size of one expense Kerry and Jimmy had not expected was that of keeping their daughters amused. "Today was the first day of the holidays," she said. "It was raining and there is nothing to do around here. So we got into the car and went to McDonald's just for something to do. "We go to the pictures sometimes, but it's not the same kind of day out as in the UK, and we still find it difficult to follow the films in French. "In the UK, Molly used to do karate, but that just isn't possible around here. In any case she doesn't get dropped off by the school bus until 5.30pm, and then she has two hours homework, so there's no time to do anything anyway. Mabel would love to do ballet, but the nearest class is an hour's drive each way." Although their elder daughter has settled into school well, Mabel has not been at all happy. At times she almost had to be prised away from her mother. As she is below compulsory schooling age, she has now been withdrawn from school in preparation for the return to the UK. Language has also been a problem. Although the girls got on well, Kerry says that improving her "restaurant" French has been a challenge. Although she is now well able to converse, dealing with the bureaucracy of day-to-day life is still difficult. Language difficulties A recent telecoms problem took five days and the help of a more fluent French-speaking English neighbour to resolve, while an unfortunate incident involving their British registered car shortly after they arrived in France is still awaiting resolution by both the police and insurance company who are seemingly ill-equipped for the transnational nature of the affair. The disparity between house price inflation between France and Britain may keep families wishing to return home off the British property ladder for years It was during a holiday in the UK that events came to a head. Kerry and the girls flew back to Essex, but Jimmy drove over. Kerry was surprised to find that she was almost dreading his arrival in the UK. Thinking carefully, she realised that what she was really dreading was having to tell him that she wanted to come back permanently. Happily, Jimmy was of the same mind. Kerry says that she didn't realise how miserable her daughters were until she saw their ecstatic reaction when the possibility of returning to Canvey Island was suggested. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 22 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie The family were able to sell their house in France quickly – to another couple coming from Britain – and had had the foresight to keep their house in the UK, so they have somewhere to go back to. Jimmy has also been able to resurrect his courier business. For others, the return is not so easy. Kerry tells of another family in the Charente who have had their partially renovated property on the market for 18 months without attracting any buying interest. Unable to work through lack of language or appropriate French qualifications, they are eking out a precarious living by juggling debt on UK credit cards that they brought with them. Even were they to sell, the disparity between house price inflation between the two countries may keep them off the British property ladder for years to come. It is difficult to see quite how they can escape from their situation. In the meantime though, Kerry, Jimmy, Molly and Mabel are packing their bags. Kerry says that though she feels that she may have been slightly selfish in imposing a move to France on her children, overall, the experience has been a good one for the family. Nonetheless the adventure is over and they are all very happy to be going home. Information appearing on telegraph.co.uk is the copyright of Telegraph Media Group Limited and must not be reproduced in any medium without licence. For the full copyright statement see Copyright 19 THE GUARDIAN A Wien romance by Nigel Slater Piping-hot gluhwein, spiced'n'iced lebkuchen and gingerbread houses... Nigel Slater rediscovers the magic of Christmas during a trip to Vienna It is difficult not to warm to a city that smells of baked apples. Strands of white fairy lights hang across the narrow streets like falling snow caught in lamplight. The bells of Stephansdom chime deeply, and every now and then there is the ghostly clatter of horses' hooves on cobbles. The shop windows, when they are not full of curiously sinister antique dolls, are glistening with caskets of sugar plums and chocolate fir cones. Vienna, icily cold and smelling of sweet spice, is like walking into a Christmas card. Six in the evening, the air full of frost, and it seems as if the whole of Wien is congregating around the tall tables of the city's many gluhwein stalls. The woolly hats, long scarves and neat beards create a scene that resembles a Seventies knitting pattern, but before I know it I have been dragged in, sipping spiced apple punsch and fraying my nails opening toasted chestnuts with the rest of them. I am in Vienna to see Rachel Whiteread's staggeringly beautiful memorial in the Judenplatz. It stands in shocked concrete silence amid its baroque surroundings, lit by a scattering of scarlet candles, creating a scene where even the sound of my footsteps intrudes. It was by sheer chance that I find its close neighbour, the tiny Friday organic market on Freyung, with its jars of local honey and home-made sauerkraut and then almost hidden behind a mass of spruce trees - one of the city's several Christkindlmarkts. I have long been embarrassed by our own big cities' tackiness when it comes to Christmas festivities. While our town centres are decorated with a sort of flashing Las Vegas-style ugliness, Vienna manages to retain the feel of an advent calendar, complete with a dusting of glitter. The Christmas markets, of which half a dozen are dotted around the city, are heavy with the fragrance of freshly cut pine trees and freshly baked ginger biscuits. Sure, they have more than their fair share of dodgy craftwork for sale, but it is a small price to pay for the lingering scent of cloves and hot apple cider that hangs in the air like an edible cloud. Yes, it's more than a little twee in places, but how can this festival ever be anything but? A few glasses of orange-peel-scented grog and you start to appreciate the work that goes into those little gingerbread houses with their snowy roofs and tiles made out of sweeties; the heart-shaped cookies and oranges stuffed with cloves; the extraordinary array of glass baubles and musical boxes. This is also where you come for paper plates of sharp shredded cabbage and slender sausages, twists of bread dough and slices of spice cake, paper bags of chestnuts fresh from the roaster, baked potatoes and mugs of steaming wine. Vienna, it would seem, is made for Christmas. Full of punsch, I push my way along the steep cobbled streets between the Burggasse and Siebensterngasse until I come to the Spittelberg Christmas market and its diminutive cabin with its single wheel of melting raclette. There is some amicable jostling among the duffel coats to get to the front of the queue (it is not easy to fight in mittens), all of us eager to get our hands on a piece of the stallholder's hot toast with its waves of molten cheese. There are few moments more perfect than the one that finds you biting into blistering cheese on toast while snowflakes fall on your eyelashes. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 23 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie The roast-chestnut braziers hold nuts as plump and sweet as I have ever seen. They never tempt me at home. The fact that they come in an old-fashioned paper cone here makes them unusually tempting. Each one split across the top, the toasted kernels peeping out enticingly like babies under a blanket. The cold is making my eyes water, but I battle on towards music coming from somewhere deep in the Hofburg Palace. Sadly, it turns out to come from a busker's ghetto blaster, but at least it's Strauss. In Britain it would have been Slade. Christmas in Vienna is enough to bring out the inner child in anyone. Every window seems to be made for sticking your nose against. It is here you will find hand-painted Christmas decorations and slices of dense chocolate cake, cheese dumplings and nutmeg-scented hot cocoa. This is the home of hot pancakes with plum compotes, butter cookies and crisp apple strudel. Yes, and doorbells and sleighbells and schnitzel with noodles. It is a place where people have probably lived out their sugar-coated fantasies for centuries, spooning snowy peaks of whipped cream from oversized coffee cups before sipping from the dark depths beneath, or toasting the season with potato patties from a charcoal burner on the street corner. There is modern food here, too. The best dish I have all week is a bright-tasting salad of pickled white cabbage and black pudding at MAK, the city's answer to our V&A - it is something I want instantly to make at home. The star of the dish is the mouth-puckering fresh horseradish that is grated like spicy snow over the top of the crisply fried black pudding. (Traces of the hot root turn up again the day after in a meal at a beisl, adding life to a bowl of stewed beef and its moat of inky broth.) Vienna's beisls are the sort of eating house that is sadly missing in Britain. Good, hearty food at a reasonable price. Yes, the portions are too large, the surroundings are the sort of varnished pine that you can forgive only in the Alps, and the staff can have a little too much of the headmistress about them. But they are reliable and much adored by the locals and tourists alike. Beisls are home to plates of pork schnitzel the size of New Zealand; kasespatzle, the little pasta dumplings the size of sugar puffs hidden under a biting cheese sauce, and wiener eintopf, their famous potato stew with boiled sausage. These spit-and-sawdust bistros are not, however, the place I fell for a lebkuchen-auflauf, a gingerbread pudding served with custard and melted chocolate. Yes, I did say 'and'. The waiter might call it a souffle (it was far from it), but the round, warm cake had the same mixture of spices as the soft spiced'n'iced cookies that turn up at Christmastime in fancy boxes. I like these lebkuchen for their lack of sweetness and the fact that they contain allspice, which is all too rarely used in baking. (Years ago I confused it with mixed spice and have been wary of it ever since.) The traditional spice mix for these dark, soft-crusted cookies has a definite touch of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, as well as molasses, honey and sometimes black pepper. There is something appealing about the fragility of the wafer-thin icing that shatters as soon as you look at it. Back home my own tree has been up for weeks - I can never wait - but now I am wondering why I didn't bake a few ginger biscuits to hang from the branches. Instead, I tucked a few into my hand luggage, an edible reminder of a twinkling, sugar'n'spice city that seems just made for this season. A very Merry Christmas to you all.... · nigel.slater@observer.co.uk Guardian Unlimited ; Guardian News and Media Limited 2007 20 THE TELEGRAPH The new breed of Brits winning over America by Chloe Fox British actors no longer have to play the snaggle-toothed baddie to get a part on US screens – they are now beating American talent to land starring roles in hit television series. Chloe Fox reports Something is happening in American television, and it isn't simply that the smiles are getting whiter. Dotted around some of its biggest hit shows are some strangely familiar faces. Hugh Laurie changed the way that British actors were perceived by American producers Time was that an English actor only got work in America if he was prepared to ham up his Englishness to play a villain, an eccentric, or as Stephen Fry so succinctly put it, someone "emotionally constipated". But then things started to change; British actors started to do American as well as, if not better than, the Americans themselves. Ironically, it was Hugh Laurie, of Jeeves and Wooster and Blackadder fame, an actor eternally typecast as a bumbling English twit, who changed the way that British actors were perceived by American producers when he won two Best Actor Golden Globe Awards in two consecutive years, for his pitch-perfect portrayal of the Ohio-born Dr Gregory House in the hit Fox medical drama, House, M.D. Having always lived by the copycat rule of "if it works, steal it", the networks leapt on the British bandwagon. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 24 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Of the 17 new dramas being broadcast by the five big networks in America at the moment, 10 of them star actors from Britain. advertisement Some, like the compulsively watchable Brothers and Sisters (in which Welsh actor Matthew Rhys gives a star turn as homosexual lawyer Kevin Walker) are in the UK already. Others, like Pushing Daisies (in which Anna Friel plays the all-American girl next door) are on their way. Just as Friel started her professional life as a soap star (Brookside), so too did the star of NBC's remake of the 1977 classic The Bionic Woman. "Everyone over here is looking for new faces," says executive producer David Eick of the decision to cast Michelle Ryan, perhaps better known here as Zoe Slater in EastEnders. "I think they cast us because we're cheap," laughs Lena Heady, the London-based actress who plays the lead in Fox's Terminator spin-off, The Sarah Connor Chronicles. "Maybe it's because we're so good," says Damian Lewis, the star of such British TV classics as The Forsyte Saga and Colditz, currently playing an American detective who is back on the force after serving a prison sentence in NBC's Life. Their rigorous training in their craft is one thing, but there is a new generation of English actors whose impressive command of the American accent makes them very hot property. "I have been working in this business for over 30 years," says Joan Washington, arguably Britain's leading dialect coach, "and I can honestly say that our young actors are much, much better at speaking with an American accent than their predecessors ever were." To her mind, there is one very good reason for this. "They are part of a generation which has grown up watching American television." Add to that the gradual change in the articulation and tone of the standard RP accent – more emphasis on the vowels, less pitch variety – and you have a vocal starting point that is closer to American in its rhythms in the first place. Washington is, however, at pains to point out that no flawless American accent can be achieved without a great deal of hard work. "It's as if everyone else is playing with a tennis racket and you have a salmon," concurs Laurie. "It takes a lot of perseverance, but it's deeply satisfying when you get it right," says Scottish-born Kevin McKidd, who is currently starring as a time-hopping San Francisco TV reporter in NBC's Journeyman. Minnie Driver, who won an Emmy nomination earlier this year for her portrayal of Louisiana gal Dahlia Malloy in The Riches, is much more blasé – "It's not difficult. You listen, and you can't help but start speaking that way." Apart from the quality of life, what is the real appeal for British actors of working in America? According to Sophia Myles, the beautiful young star who was cast as quintessential English aristocrat Lady Penelope in the 2004 remake of Thunderbirds, there isn't a choice. "We don't really have a film industry in England any more," says the star of CBS's flagship new drama Moonlight, in which she plays the human love interest of a vampire-turned-private detective. "And American television, especially in the past few years, is on a par with, if not better than, a lot of movies that are out there at the moment." Then of course there are the financial considerations. With Hugh Laurie now commanding a rumoured $300,000 (£144,000) per episode of House, there is an incentive to perform well in a potential hit show. Not only that, but, whereas some of the most prestigious British series have short runs, a successful American series can keep an actor profitably employed for years. Take Dominic West, for example. Since 2002, the star of British films like True Blue and Rock Star has been spending half of his working year in Baltimore filming HBO's hugely popular cop show, The Wire. As well as paying the bills, the show has also become a calling card, landing him roles in big-budget Hollywood pictures like Chicago and 300. The only downside? If he hasn't already, it's surely only a matter of time before he will have to dye his English teeth Hollywood white. Information appearing on telegraph.co.uk is the copyright of Telegraph Media Group Limited and must not be reproduced in any medium without licence. For the full copyright statement see Copyright 21 THE TELEGRAPH The French don't give a fig for fads by Helena Frith Powell In France, eating well and staying slim is a constant preoccupation. But few people diet or go to the gym – and no one takes food scares seriously, says Helena Frith Powell Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 25 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Another day, another diet scare. As British consumers panic about the latest report saying that red meat and wine may cause cancer, I am here in France tucking into a birthday lunch with a French friend. The French don't give a fig for fads For the French, eating well is part of a daily routine We are eating lamb, roast potatoes, carrots and haricots verts. We will drink some red wine and, knowing my friend, we will finish off with a piece of dark chocolate. In fact, if she doesn't have any, I will bring some out from my own handbag. Since the news last week that craving chocolate can actually make you fatter, I never travel without my own bar. The French think we're hilarious with our faddy diets and food obsessions. A few years ago we were supposed to avoid carbs. A meal without bread? You've got to be off your trolley. No red meat? I don't think so. advertisement The French eat from every food group at every meal, regardless of whether or not they are healthy, superhealthy or protect us from disease. At Christmas last year we were invited over for an aperitif with some French friends. We had some wine. Shortly afterwards they produced some foie gras, followed by smoked salmon, followed by a selection of cheeses and then a home-made Christmas log. "Thanks for dinner," I said, when we finally stumbled out at 11.30pm. "That wasn't dinner," said the wife, horrified. "There were no vegetables." And no crisps or processed canapés, either. The French eat a very balanced diet. For them, healthy eating and staying thin is not something they do once a year before they put on a bikini or because some health watchdog has issued an ultimatum; it's something they think about on an hourly basis. They always think about eating well. It is part of their daily routine. And therein lies the difference. If you think about what you eat every day then you will remain thin – and avoid those possibly carcinogenic processed foods into the bargain. The French don't stuff their faces with doughnuts and fast food at every opportunity. Yes, they stop for lunch, but they don't get fat. They eat creamy cheeses but their heart attack rate is renowned for being low – the so-called French paradox. They might drink wine with lunch and dinner, but rarely more than a glass or two. Binge-drinking is simply not something that happens here. Frenchwomen's attitude to exercise is the same as their attitude to food. They don't go to a gym and burn out once a week. Every opportunity to push a child on a swing or walk up some stairs is seen as an opportunity to exercise. One Frenchwoman I know says that if she is stuck next to someone dull at a dinner party, she spends most of the time squeezing her pelvic floor. On the way home, her husband no longer asks her if she had a good time: he asks her how her pelvic floor is. If it's in good shape, he knows she was bored out of her mind. The news that we shouldn't eat red meat or drink alcohol does not worry me. Nor does the theory that five portions of fruit and vegetables may not protect me from cancer. I will just keep eating a little of what I want to every day – and, as I tuck into my Brie and French bread, I will wait for the next fad to send everyone in England into spirals of despair. Here in France, nothing gets in the way of lunch – least of all a scientific report. # Helena Frith Powell is the author of Two Lipsticks and a Lover, published by Arrow Information appearing on telegraph.co.uk is the copyright of Telegraph Media Group Limited and must not be reproduced in any medium without licence. For the full copyright statement see Copyright 22 THE GUARDIAN The great armchair escape Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced by Rory Maclean Agata Adamska 26 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Stuck at home between Christmas and new year? Rory MacLean discovers the perfect book to go globetrotting without leaving the comfort of your sofa Outside the rain lashes the street. The wind rattles the windows. The turkey has been amputated and all the TV shows are reruns. In the bleak days between Christmas and New Year's Eve, I'd rather be somewhere else. Anywhere else where the rellies aren't superglued to the sofa. Hence a sudden interest in armchair travel. Publishing gurus estimate a remarkable 22% of readers never take their guidebooks out of the house. Every year Lonely Planet sells 30,000 copies of its Bhutan guide when only 15,000 tourists visit the country annually. Armchair travellers want to experience Bali or Brazil without leaving Basildon. Likewise, glossy travel magazines exploit our longing for the many places we won't see before we die. They assure us that the world is our oyster, and propel our imaginations around the globe, while the reality of bills-to-pay and trains-to-catch keeps most of us at home. Enter Taschen, the international art publisher that produces innovative, often shocking art books at popular prices. Its titles range from Michelangelo's complete works to Robert Crumb's raucous and vulgar Sex Obsessions, by way of a collection of amateur nude self-portraits. Taschen's ventures into travel erotica — including its capital city restaurant, boutique and hotel guides — are equally titillating and seductive. Great Escapes around the World is a lushly illustrated selection of 90 amazing guesthouses, hotels, spas and houseboats. Stay in a hilltop Burgundy chateau, built in 1221, complete with moat and draw bridge. Avoid the paparazzi at Gio Ponti's cool blue and white residence overlooking the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. Drift towards the end of the world in a hot tub at the exclusive, wooden-clad Explora en Patagonia, which appears to float like an ocean liner on a glacial Andean lake. For me, the two most intriguing destinations are in the United States. In Colorado, not far from the Telluride ski resort, a German soap-and-chemical heir recently bought an entire 1890s ghost town. He restored the weather-beaten log cabins, filling them with fine art, to create a European fantasy of the American West. Where else do the tepees have Jacuzzis and guests dine in an original saloon on locally-sourced gourmet cuisine: organic beef from neighbouring farms, wild mushrooms, chanterelles and boletos, from the foothills of the Rockies? Across the state line in Arizona, travellers romanticise the freedom of the American road. At the Shady Dell RV Park, vintage 1950s silver caravans – Airstreams, Manors, a Royal Mansion – have been restored to their original glory. The bedspreads are chenille. The decorative fruit is plastic. The cupboards are stocked with Marshmallow Fluff and Skippy Peanut Butter. The phonographs play Elvis Presley 45rpm records (supplied). Time-tripping guests order chilli dogs and root beer floats at Dot's Diner, gaze out over the desert and pretend to be Jack Kerouac. Great Escapes ranges across the globe, from Big Sur to Bolivia's Uyuni salt desert to Shepton Mallet. Its broad selection ensures that there's a destination to suit all tastes, though not all budgets. With the exception of an Austrian alpine retreat and a few American establishments (like the Shady Dell), most of the hotels are expensive. A single won't leave you much change from £150. At Venice's elegant Hotel Cipriani and Palazzo Vendramin, rooms start at £1,250 per night. Not surprisingly the text drips with superlatives. Water is inevitably "sparkling blue". The view is always "breath-taking". In the sexy, full-page photographs, the bathrobes are fluffy, the pillows plumped, the bougainvillea blooming beneath a cloudless sky. Unexpectedly each listing includes a recommended "book to pack". At Angkor Village, the suggested reading is First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung. It is unfortunate that the translation – the book was researched by a team of English-, French- and German-speaking writers – occasionally becomes muddled: "Rarely will your loungs breathe so bracing an air" and "In the heart of Africa, the search for prey is as old as time". Great Escapes around the World is a big book. At 720 pages and weighing four kilos, it's not going to slip into any globetrotter's backpack. The publisher's intention is that readers will ogle over its lush pages and be inspired to click on to a dedicated online hotel reservations website. My suspicion is this won't happen too often. The vast majority of readers will simply stay at home and imagine escaping to another world, tasting those fresh croissants, slipping between those silk sheets, and forgetting for a moment the sound of arguing relatives and Dawn French reruns. · Rory MacLean's latest book Magic Bus: On the Hippie Trail from Istanbul to India is published by Penguin. It is available to buy from the Guardian Bookshop 23 THE NEWSWEEK The Bitter-Sweet Taste Of Success China's rise is empowering its legions of working women. But they're finding the rewards aren't so sweet. Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 27 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie I am an agony aunt—a print and online advice columnist—in China. By accident. I used to write a column on sex, but it was considered too risqué by the censors. So we changed it to a Q&A format instead. In the beginning, my editors wrote the questions. But after two issues, real letters started to come in from readers. A year and a half ago, I also started to write a blog, which became very successful. The questions I receive offer fascinating insights into what it's like to be a woman in China today. Since the column started, we have received a total of 14,397 letters, 90 percent of them from women. Most of the writers live in urban areas and hold college degrees. A quarter of them write me about affairs with married men, usually the women's bosses. To get a sense of their concerns, consider the following sample: Dear Huang, I have been in a romantic and sexual relationship with my boss for five years. I am now pregnant with his child. His wife has known about our relationship all along but refuses to give him a divorce. I am comfortable being his concubine, [si nce] he is very kind to me: he bought me an apartment and has promised to pay all the expenses for our baby. But my parents, who are Communist Party members and very conservative, think it is immoral and want me to leave him and have an abortion. What s hould I do? Some 30 percent of my readers, meanwhile, seem to have a hard time finding a partner at all. Here is a typical complaint: Dear Huang, I am 32, and have a master ' s degree in English. I am also very good looking, if I may say so. But I have problems finding a spouse. One of the problems is that I am not a virgin. The other one is that my graduate degree is intimidating to Chinese men. My friends suggest that I li e about both and even get an operation [to simulate virginity]. Is this the only way I can get someone to love me? Should I do it? Such problems are far from unique, and say a lot about the attitudes of Chinese women. Most of us now face acute dilemmas over what roles to play in the country's booming new market economy. Although we have gained economic status as China has grown richer, we have not really gained in social status. Chinese society is still deeply traditional, and Confucius said that "a virtuous woman is without talent." This notion remains deeply rooted in Chinese culture. We don't like highly educated, highly paid professional women. Deep down, many Chinese remain very skeptical about the value of successful woman when it comes to relationships, families and social environments. When women make money, it is considered disruptive. That said, China has enjoyed official gender equality for more than 50 years now. In government agencies and state-owned enterprises, men and women are required by law to receive equal pay. Indeed, Chinese women never had to fight to achieve formal equality: it was handed to us instead on a silver platter. Ironically, this might not have been a good thing. For it has left Chinese women unequipped to deal with gender issues in the current market economy (as opposed to Communist China's old, state-run system). In addition, we have failed to develop a moral structure that would help us women understand the complicated social issues that arise from wealth. Remember that polygamy was abolished in China only when the Communists took over in 1949. My grandmother always said that it was good to be the first in school but the last in marriage—meaning it was more important to be the most favored wife than it was to be a smart student. Such attitudes still linger. As a result, the kinds of compromises and decisions Western career women now make all the time remain difficult and morally burdensome for their Chinese counterparts. Consider the case of my communications director: only two months after she was promoted to that post, she asked me for a demotion. When I asked why, she replied that she did not want to give her fianc? the impression that she was too focused on her career. What's wrong with that? I asked. She said that in his family, a "good woman" was one who made her husband and her family the priority of her life. As all that suggests, China may be changing fast—but there's still plenty of work for us agony aunts to accomplish. 24 THE NEWSWEEK Steve Grove: How to Run for President, YouTube Style Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced By Karen Breslau Agata Adamska 28 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Steve Grove believes in the wisdom of crowds. And the smartest people he knows are YouTube's estimated 71 million users, who collectively post and watch as many as 2.5 billion online videos a month. As YouTube's political director, Grove, 30, considers himself less an editor than a "curator" of the Web site's "chaotic sea of content." A lot of the site's political fare is anything but high-minded or serious—the sultry YouTube fave "Obama Girl" and all those wonderfully snarky homemade videos mocking Hillary Clinton's robotic laugh or John Edwards's obsessive hair and makeup routine. But user-created clips are also shaping coverage of the 2008 presidential campaign in ways unimagined in 2006, when a viral video of Sen. George Allen calling his rival's campaign worker "macaca" ended the Virginia Republican's career—and led to what Grove calls "the birth of YouTube politics." YouTube, which didn't even exist three years ago, found its way into the mainstream awfully fast. At presidential debates cosponsored by the site, candidates had to endure—and pretend to enjoy—oddball video questions submitted by YouTubers. Democrats were quizzed about global warming by an animated melting snowman; Republicans were grilled about gun control by a guy swinging a rifle. "If you're not on YouTube, you're not part of the discussion," says Grove, a former Boston Globe and ABC News reporter. "It's the world's largest town hall." The candidates, too, have learned to use the site to their advantage, uploading sometimes serious, sometimes quirky, snippets of themselves. The most clever bits get spread around the Web and picked up by TV. "HuckChuckFacts"—a tongue-in-cheek endorsement video featuring Mike Huckabee and action star Chuck Norris trading manly compliments—is a classic of the genre. Grove says the campaigns and their supporters also use the site to launch—and respond to—political attacks. When someone posted a 1994 video of Mitt Romney declaring himself pro-choice, his staff quickly slapped up a clip of the candidate explaining why he's now against abortion. Grove is making it even easier for politicians to take advantage of YouTube's reach. The site now offers each candidate a "YouChoose" channel that lets them interact with YouTubers via video clips. Users can talk back by posting their own video responses. The political videos of one user, Georgetown student James Kotecki, became so popular that Ron Paul and Huckabee showed up in his dorm room for Webcam interviews. "Our goal is to improve the way politicians and voters talk to each other," says Grove. If "Obama Girl" winds up snagging a prime-time convention speech, Grove will know he has truly arrived. 25 THE JAPAN TIMES From Bliss to blood By MICHAEL HOFFMAN Japan's 'Christian century' began in 1549. By 1640, most of the nation's 300,000 converts had been killed. Some scholars say Japan's Christian history began long before the so-called "Christian century" (1549-c.1640). Their claim takes us all the way back to 7th- and 8th-century Nara, where Nestorian Christians from Persia are said to have built churches, operated a leper hospital and even converted the Empress Komyo, wife of the devout Buddhist, Emperor Shomu (reigned 724-749), to Christianity. The evidence is tantalizing but inconclusive. If they existed, Nara's early Christians left no mark on the culture. Spanish and Portuguese Jesuit missionaries who arrived some 800 years later not only had to start from scratch, they had to define scratch. How to begin to explain, in an alien language, such alien and mysterious concepts as transcendent Godhead, the Virgin Birth, the sacrifice on the Cross of the Son of God for the redemption of mankind? The scale of the task is a measure of the determination of the men who faced it, and Francis Xavier, the Basque Jesuit whose landing at Kagoshima in August 1549 inaugurates the "Christian century," was nothing if not determined. A prayer attributed to him begins, "Eternal God, Creator of all things, remember that the souls of unbelievers have been created by thee and formed to thy own image and likeness. Behold, O Lord, how to thy dishonor hell is being filled with these very souls . . . Do not permit, O Lord, I beseech thee, that thy divine Son be any longer despised by unbelievers . . . '' Thus fortified, the future saint went to work on the Japanese. Xavier had by then been in Asia seven years. He arrived in Goa, "the Rome of India," capital of Portugal's Far Eastern empire, in 1542. He traveled vast distances, much of his missionary work unfolding among cannibals and warriors of remote South Asian islands. In 1547 he was on his way back to Goa when he heard at Malacca, in today's Malaysia, encouraging reports of a new Asian discovery. Four years earlier some Portuguese traders blown off-course by a storm had been the first Europeans known to set foot in Japan. "There," wrote Xavier, "according to the Portuguese, much fruit might be gained for the increase of our holy faith, more than in any other part of the Indies, for they are a people most desirous of knowledge, which the Indian heathen are not." Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 29 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie At Malacca he met a Japanese, a sometime pirate named Yajiro: "He came to seek me with a great desire to know about our religion." Yajiro, christened Paul, became Xavier's companion and interpreter. He proved a mixed blessing. Japan in the 16th century was disintegrating. Feudal lord fought feudal lord; combat had become endemic. "There was not a province in Japan," writes the historian George Sansom, "free from the armed rivalry of territorial barons or lords of the [Buddhist] church." Few in 1549 would have foreseen the firmly united nation that was to emerge 50 years later. Nor was there much in Xavier's first faltering steps in this unknown land to suggest the groundswell of success soon to reward the Jesuits' unshakable confidence and dedication. The success was brilliant but fleeting. It ended tragically in what Engelbert Kaempfer, a German physician and chronicler stationed at Nagasaki early in the 18th century, called "the most cruel persecution and torture of Christians ever witnessed on this globe . . . lasting more than 40 years until the last drop of Christian blood was spilled." RELATED LINKS Japan's 'Hidden Christians' One missionary's 'swamp' is another's 'religion allergy' challenge Xavier, Yajiro and two Jesuit companions boarded a Chinese pirate ship at Malacca and disembarked at Kagoshima in southern Kyushu. Xavier was impatient to push on to Kyoto and convert "the king of Japan." The trouble was, there was no "king of Japan," only an emperor who was powerless and a shogun, Ashikaga Yoshiteru, who was even more so. Central authority had altogether broken down. The bringers of the Word would have to be content to deal with warlords. These were, for the most part, accommodating. The Kyushu and southern Honshu daimyo were quick to see the value of Portuguese backing, Portuguese trade and, of course, Portuguese guns, first introduced into Japanese warfare around this time. If a courteous reception of the missionaries brought such rewards, it seemed a small price to pay. Xavier and his little band were first welcomed at Kagoshima by the "king of Satsuma" — the daimyo Shimazu Takahisa. He granted them permission to preach in the streets, and listened to them dispute the finer points of ultimate reality with a group of Zen monks. Yajiro's skills as an interpreter, which modern scholars do not rate highly, must have been taxed to the limit. Still, the mutual goodwill among the parties was such that the missionaries were deeply distressed when the monks declined baptism — "preferring," laments the contemporary Jesuit chronicler Luis Frois, "to land lost and miserable in hell." The padres did better on the streets, baptizing, according to Frois, 150 people in the 10 months they were there. Yamaguchi in southern Honshu was their next stop, and there too the "king" was cordial, at least at first. His sudden change of mood suggests the thin ice the missionaries trod. Here is Sansom's account: "Xavier had an audience with [the daimyo Ouchi Yoshitaka], at whose request he told the interpreter to read in Japanese a document, already prepared, which gave the elements of Christian doctrine. This included a discourse upon error and sin. When the reader came to a passage on sodomy, describing those guilty of this offense as filthier than swine and lower than dogs, the daimyo changed color and dismissed them, no doubt because he, in common with many military men and monks in that part of Japan, was given to such habits. The interpreter thought they might have their heads cut off, but they left safely . . . " As in Kagoshima, Xavier in Yamaguchi got on well with the Buddhist priests. Here the prevailing sect was Shingon, which worships the Buddha Vairocana, Dainichi in Japanese. A befuddled Yajiro convinced Xavier that Dainichi was none other than the Catholic "Deus-sama" in Oriental dress, that Shingon and Christianity were essentially one. This was good news indeed, but it did not bear scrutiny. "[Xavier] approached the monks again," writes Sansom, "and questioned them on the mystery of the Holy Trinity, asking whether they believed the second Person of the Trinity had become a man and had died on the cross to save mankind. The Shingon monks were accustomed to mysteries, but these things were so strange to them that they seemed like fables or dreams, and some laughed at what the father said." Realizing his mistake, Xavier turned acerbic. He now taught, says Frois, that Shingon was "an invention of the devil, as also were all the other sects of Japan." Xavier left Japan in 1551, strangely enough more hopeful than discouraged. Stranger still, his hope was borne out — for a time; a very brief time . . . On July 24, 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the second of the three great unifiers of Japan — and by then Japan's most powerful warlord — issued an edict giving the foreign purveyors of the "pernicious doctrine" 20 days to leave the country. It was a bolt out of the blue. Christianity's prospects had flowered splendidly in the 36 years since Xavier's departure. By 1582 there were 200 churches serving an estimated 150,000 native Christians. Common people aside, the Jesuits had friends and allies in high places, none friendlier or higher than Hideyoshi himself, or so it seemed. Had he not, in 1586, granted the padres the right to reside and preach the gospel unmolested "in all the lands of Japan?" Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 30 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie Here and there, though not everywhere, Christianity was starting to look like the wave of the future. Omura Sumitada, lord of the territory surrounding Nagasaki, became Japan's first Christian daimyo, receiving baptism in 1563 and being given the Christian name Bartholomeu. Eleven years later, beset by regional enemies, he was extricated by a Portuguese fleet — in return for which, suggested the Jesuit Gaspar Coelho, Bartolomeu ought, as the chronicler Frois records, "to extinguish totally the worship and veneration of the idols in his lands" until "not a single pagan remained." The result was Japan's first forcible mass conversion. Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines were burned to the ground, and Christianity at one stroke gained 60,000 new converts. (A similar if less violent mass conversion was imposed in 1577 on the nearby Shimabara Peninsula. It bore tragic fruit six decades later, as we shall see.) To the east of Bartolomeu's domain lay the province of Bungo, whose daimyo, Otomo Sorin, had been welldisposed towards the Portuguese since Xavier's passage through his territory in 1551. His lively protestations, in letters to the Portuguese base at Macao, of respect for "the things of God" and "the Christians who are in my kingdom" accompany requests for arms, making it difficult to ascertain which side of the spiritual-temporal divide was uppermost in his mind. On the one hand, he did not accept baptism until 1578; on the other hand, having accepted it, he seems to have embraced the new faith wholeheartedly. History knows him best as "Good King Francisco" — and his wife, deeply and (so it is said) shrewishly anti-Christian, as "Jezebel." Like his neighbor Bartolomeu, Good King Francisco indulged a passion for temple- and shrine-burning — most notably in a neighboring province he invaded in May 1578, intending, Frois tells us, to turn it into a model Christian community. Alas, the victory proved short-lived. The defeated enemy rallied and Francisco fled back to Bungo — evidence, to Frois, of God's wish to "punish the people of Bungo" for sins which "had accumulated to an extent that God could no longer ignore." Hideyoshi's abrupt expulsion order opens the final act of the drama of the "Christian century." Mildly enforced at first, it culminated in the relentless torture and persecution Kaempfer speaks of, an agonizing, appalling, ultimately futile mass martyrdom whose most obvious parallel is a supremely ironic one — the martyrdom the Catholic Inquisitions were simultaneously inflicting on "heretics" in Europe. Crucifixion was one of the many punishments meted out to Japan's large Christian community in the early 1600s. For 10 years there were few signs that Hideyoshi meant business. Missionary activity and Christian worship carried on much as before, officials looking on tolerantly as new converts were brought daily into the fold. In 1596 Hideyoshi had only two years left to live. Might history have been different if the pilot of a Spanish galleon from the Philippines had not in that year boasted of the power of the Spanish Empire, and of the missionaries who pave the way for its overseas conquests? Thus provoked, Hideyoshi acted swiftly. On Feb. 5, 1597 in Nagasaki, 26 Christians — six Spanish Franciscans and 20 Japanese — were crucified. "To the protests of the Governor of the Philippines," writes Sansom, "[Hideyoshi] replied that the Spaniards had no more right to introduce their religion into Japan than had the Japanese to preach the worship of their own gods in the Philippines." In 1614, national unification all but complete, Hideyoshi's successor Tokugawa Ieyasu delivered the coup de grace. "The Kirishitan band," he declared, "have come to Japan . . . to disseminate an evil law, to overthrow true doctrine, so that they may change the government of the country . . . This . . . must be crushed." It was. Within 30 years, Christians numbering 300,000 out of a total population of 20 million were either slaughtered wholesale, tortured and murdered individually, or else driven so deep underground that scarcely a trace of their existence was to surface for 250 years. As persecution intensified, the Jesuits were nonplussed by a Japanese trait they had not previously noticed. "They race to martyrdom," observed Father Organtino, "as if to a festival." The Christian view of suicide as sinful made few inroads against the traditional Japanese view of it as glorious. "Fifty-five persons of all ages and both sexes," wrote the English trader Richard Cocks of a scene he witnessed in October 1619, "[were] burnt alive on the dry bed of the Kamo River in Kyoto, among them little children of 5 or 6 years old in their mothers' arms, crying out, 'Jesus receive their souls!' " But these public executions, the authorities soon realized, were not having their desired effect. Far from terrifying the Christians into renouncing their faith, they only made Paradise seem that much nearer. Subtler tortures were called for, and were soon devised. Their aim was to induce apostasy before, or sometimes instead of, death. Three torments are especially notorious: the onsen, the fumie and the pit. The first amounted to being slowly boiled alive in scalding natural hot springs. The second involved having suspected Christians trample holy images of Jesus and Mary. Refusal exposed them as Christians. Many trampled; many refused, preferring martyrdom. RELATED LINKS Japan's 'Hidden Christians' One missionary's 'swamp' is another's 'religion allergy' challenge "For non-Christians," writes theologian Stephen Turnbull in "The Kakure Kirishitan of Japan" (see accompanying story), "stamping on the fumie eventually acquired the air of an annual ritual eagerly awaited as one of the many New Year celebrations, but to the [Christians], fumie never lost its horror, even in cases where the authorities Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 31 III Liceum Ogólnokształcące im. J.Kochanowskiego w Krakowie required only the outward sign of apostasy . . . Prayers were said to counteract the blasphemy, and in one community there was a ritual of burning the straw sandals worn when treading on the image, mixing the ashes with water and drinking the result." The pit was said to be the most horrible torture of all. Historian C.R. Boxer describes it: "The victim was tightly bound around the body as high as the breast (one hand being left free to give the signal of recantation) and then hung downwards from a gallows into a pit which usually contained excreta and other filth, the top of the pit being level with his knees. In order to give the blood some vent, the forehead was lightly slashed with a knife. Some of the stronger martyrs lived for more than a week in this position, but the majority did not survive more than a day or two." The "Christian Century" ends with the Shimabara rebellion of 1637-38. Ivan Morris calls it a "holocaust," a word no modern historian would use lightly. The Shimabara Peninsula in western Kyushu was then a desperately poor outback whose starved peasants were mercilessly squeezed for taxes far beyond their capacity to pay. Default invited torture as ghastly and imaginative as that meted out to Christians. How much the uprising was motivated by poverty and how much by Christian ideals remains in dispute. Its leader was a charismatic 15-year-old named Amakusa Shiro, known to his followers as "heaven's messenger." Miraculous powers were attributed to him. Ensconsed in the abandoned Hara Castle that they seized as their stronghold were 37,000 rebels — peasants and low-ranking samurai, all at least nominally Christian. For five months they held out against impossible odds, but the end, barring a miracle, was never in doubt. "The slaughter on 15th April [1638]," writes Morris, "was one of the greatest in all Japan's sanguinary history. The nearby rivers and inlets were clogged with decapitated bodies." Amakusa Shiro was beheaded, his head publicly gibbeted in Nagasaki. Rebels who weren't massacred hurled themselves into the flames of the burning castle. Morris quotes a contemporary daimyo — steeped in samurai rather than Christian ideals — as commenting, "For people of their low station this was indeed a praiseworthy way of dying. Words cannot express [my admiration]." Shimabara marks Japan's retreat into more than 200 years of isolation from the outside world. It also marks the end, until modern times, of open Christian worship in Japan. For the next two centuries the story of Japanese Christianity is that of the "Kakure Kirishitan," the "Hidden Christians." Michael Hoffman's latest book, "Birnbaum: A Novel of Inner Space," will be published early next year by Printed Matter Press. His Web site can be found at www.michaelhoffman.squarespace.com The Japan Times: Sunday, Dec. 23, 2007 (C) All rights reserved Readings Most Wanted: Upper-intermediate to advanced Agata Adamska 32