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Plus, when you offer the most credentialed feed in the world, you can leverage that into more and higherpaying customers, while simultaneously enjoying a healthier, more competitive barn that will likely require less feed. Long respected in the Mid-Atlantic region and greatly desired by nutrition enthusiasts elsewhere for their fixed formulas and “put the horse first” ethics, Pennfield is now available coast to coast, via a growing network of dealers or direct-to-farm delivery. To apply for a Pennfield sponsorship of your facility, call 717-295-8735, email bparise@pennfield.com, or text to recipient 41513 the message Penn16 .
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s
Editorial/Administration
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Tel. (203) 263-0888 • Fax (203) 266-0452
E-mail: info@stable-management.com
Website: www.stable-management.com
Publisher/Editor
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Associate Publisher
Olivia Rowan olivia@stable-management.com
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Editor
Rick Kahl rick@stable-management.com
Assistant Editor
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Production Manager
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Founding Publisher
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Contributors/Correspondents
Stephanie J. Corum
Stephen Hall
Julie I. Fershtman
Charlene Strickland
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Advertising
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Tel. (270) 924-3637 • Fax (270) 924-3639 linda@stable-management.com
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STABLE MANAGEMENT , Vol. 10, No. 5, July
2009 (USPS 020-282) (ISSN 1539-1256) published 8 times per year (February, April, May,
June, July, August, October and December) by
Beardsley Publishing Corp., 45 Main Street
North, P.O. Box 644, Woodbury, CT 06798.
Copyright 2009 Beardsley Publishing Corp. All rights reserved. Periodicals postage PAID at
Woodbury, CT and at additional mailing offices.
POSTMASTER: send address changes to
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your
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W p u b l i s h e r ’ s m e m o
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THE DIGITAL AGE
You may have noticed in the last couple of issues that we have invited you at the end of each piece to find out more about the topic on our website or to discuss the subject in our forums. This is all part of a broader mission here at Stable Management : to deliver information to you in ways that are quick and easy. To tackle this, we revamped our website so that it now has eight distinct channels:
Barns; Farm Equipment; Feed & Supplements; Fencing;
Fly & Pest Control; Grooming, Tack & Apparel; Healthcare; and Stable Management. Each of these channels gathers all the articles we’ve run, our supplier directory, new products and any related discussion in our forums under one roof, so to speak. So, when you want to find out more about fencing, simply hit the Fencing button and you will see all of the articles we’ve run in the past on the subject, related suppliers, new fencing products, and posts from our Finding Out section that discuss fencing. Easy, right? Please go check it out and let us know what you think.
But some of the best information comes from discussion. To that end, if you click on the current issue cover on the home page of our website (which, by the way, is www.stable-management.com), we have provided space for you to comment on that article. We have found that our
Finding Out section has been very helpful to those of you needing experienced opinions or wanting to share your own trials and tribulations. It’s great to know that we all share the same concerns, as well as the same passions, and we would love for you to participate. Learning from one another’s experiences, both good and bad, can be one of the most valuable tools in our business.
But, don’t worry, we will continue to produce this thing you hold in your hands because despite all of this fabulous new technology, nothing beats a good old magazine in many instances.
—Jennifer Rowan, Publisher
800-585-7000
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Check out the new channels on stable-management.com.

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10 Legal
Even Just Watching
16 Government
Uncle Sam and You
38 Finding Out
When to Call a Vet
22
24
27
30
32
33
Safety Check
No doubt you’ve already put some serious miles on your trailer this season.
Now would be a good time to make sure everything is in good working order.
By Charlene Strickland
A Little Shelter
This author and her husband decided to try their hand at a do-it-yourself project——a run-in shed. Here’s what they learned.
By Stephanie J. Corum
Hay Is Not For All Horses
Whether due to illness, availability or finances, sometimes you need to look at alternatives to hay. Here’s what you should know.
By Heather Smith Thomas
The Navicular Mystery
New diagnostic tools and treatments in navicular disease are working.
By Stephanie Stephens
Can Your Business Change?
Sometimes changing your business model makes good financial sense.
By Stephen Hall
What’s New
From protective netting to new feed, see the new products that will make our lives easier, healthier and more comfortable.
From immigration to economic stimulus, there are several national issues that may affect the equine industry.
For the full story, » page 16
Cover design by Elizabeth Eren
Trailer Safety Check
» page 22
Hay Alternatives
» page 27

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l e g a l
By Julie I. Fershtman
W ith their sheer strength and size, and because they act on instinct, horses can hurt virtually anyone near them. Spectators at shows and visitors at stables, merely by being near horses, can be at risk. And as these following examples show, spectators sometimes sue.
• At a parade, a spectator who wanted to cross the street spotted a
“break” in the parade procession that was just ahead of an approaching group of horses. The spectator crossed at the break while he carried a lawn chair. A pony in the group of advancing horses in the parade, likely spooking from the lawn chair, bolted forward and collided with the spectator, causing injuries.
• A guest at a stable observed a horse being led toward a pasture and through a gate. Suddenly, the horse bolted backwards into the gate, which caused fence rail boards to pop out of a bracket and strike the stable guest in the face. She was seriously injured.
• A spectator at a rodeo was injured when he placed his hands on the outside of a chain link fence, but his hands became entangled when a horse that was tied to the fence suddenly pulled away.
• After watching a friend take a riding lesson, a visitor at a riding stable walked down a barn aisle, but one of the horses in the barn allegedly lunged its head outside of its stall door and bit the visitor.
In each of these examples, lawsuits followed. This article explores spectator liabilities and provides some suggestions for avoiding them.
Lawsuits
When injured spectators sue horse owners and stables, their lawsuits typically proceed under the legal theory of negligence or under a provision of a state equine activity liability act.
Both of these are discussed below.
Negligence : In lawsuits involving negligence, the one who sues (called the plaintiff) claims that the person or business allegedly at fault (called the defendant) failed to act as a reasonably prudent person would have under similar circumstances.
For example, an 82 year-old spectator at an Ohio race track brought a lawsuit that alleged negligence after she was trampled by a loose race
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l e g a l _ »
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horse. There, the woman had been watching the races, but one of the race horses unseated its rider and ran loose throughout the grounds. The race track was negligent, she claimed, because it unreasonably allowed gates to remain open during the races and allowed the horse an opportunity to approach spectators such as the plaintiff. While the trial court dismissed the case for the reason that the risk of being struck by a loose horse at a race horse was an “inherent risk” that spectators should expect, the case proceeded all the way to the Ohio
Court of Appeals. That court stated that “the risk of being trampled by a runaway horse that has come off a racetrack through a negligently placed or permitted gap in the surrounding fence is not an inherent risk of horse racing.” That court allowed the spectator’s case to proceed.
Equine Liability Acts : As of
March 2009, 46 states have equine activity liability acts on the books.
These laws all differ, but generally apply to people who are “participants” and “engage in equine activities.” An issue that occasionally arises is whether the law applies to claims brought by spectators who were hurt while visiting stables or equine events. In one lawsuit, for example, a court ruled that Michigan’s Equine
Activity Liability Act applied to a lawsuit brought by a visitor at a stable who was merely walking down the barn aisle when she was bitten by a horse. The plaintiff (the one who brought the suit) claimed that she was not an “equine activity participant” and the law was inapplicable because she was merely walking through the barn and not interacting with any of the horses. The court disagreed and ruled that the equine activity liability act did apply under the circumstances. It pointed to a definition found within Michigan’s law, that defined a “participant” in an equine activity to include people who were
“visiting, touring, or utilizing an equine facility.” That is what the plaintiff was doing, the court reasoned, when she was bitten by the horse.
In that case in Ohio where the plaintiff sustained facial injuries on fence boards, the plaintiff sued for negligence in the handling of the horse and dangerous gates. Ultimately, the court tossed out the case on the strength of Ohio’s equine activity liability act. It found that the plaintiff, as a spectator or bystander at the stable, qualified as a “participant” for whom the law applied.
Depending on the language of an equine activity liability statute, spectators could be exempt from the law.
Colorado’s law, for example, states that it applies to “participants” who
“engage in an equine activity” but proceeds to state that “the term
‘engages in an equine activity’ does not include being a spectator at an equine activity, except in cases where the spectator places himself in an unauthorized area and in immediate proximity to the equine activity.”
Avoiding Liability
Stables should be mindful of the threat of a lawsuit from injured spectators and can take a few precautions.
Here are a few:
1.
Stable Rules.
Stables, it seems,
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Trespassers
Under general principles of premises liability, stables are not liable when a trespasser is injured on the property. On the other hand, the stable could be liable if it was grossly negligent or committed an intentional act that injured the trespasser. Stables that know trespassers could be present on the land could be held to a higher liability standard. That is, stables that know or should know that people trespass on their property must be very careful before engaging in an activity that could kill or seriously injure one of them. For example, the stable cannot drive a tractor or manure spreader directly into trespassers.
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l e g a l _ » are constantly mindful of the risks that horses pose to riders and handlers, and their rules often reflect this by targeting active equestrians. But visitors and spectators are equally, if not more, common at stables. With this in mind, stables should consider establishing and enforcing rules that are designed to apply to visitors and guests. And make these rules evident through signage.
2.
Releases of Liability.
Courts in most states have shown a willingness to enforce releases of liability. One of the most common reasons why releases fail is that they were improperly drafted. For example, some form releases provide that the signer agrees to release the stable from liability only if the signer is injured while riding a horse. What the release forms completely ignore, however, is the possibility that the signer could be injured while on the stable grounds, handling a horse, or near horses. A release document that applies only to the mounted rider runs a serious risk of being unenforceable in other settings.
Instead, the stable’s release (where allowed by law) can specify that the signer has agreed to releasing the stable from liability if he or she is injured while merely on the stable’s property or near horses.
3.
Liability Insurance.
Liability insurance is a must for stables. A few types of liability insurance policies offer stables protection against claims involving injured spectators or visitors at a stable. These policies include:
• homeowner’s liability insurance
• farmowner’s insurance
• personal horse owner’s liability insurance (sometimes called “Private
Horse Owner’s Liability Insurance” or “Individual Horse Owner’s Liability Insurance”)
• commercial general liability insurance
• event liability insurance.
Your insurance agent can best explain which coverages are best for you. Never assume that you do not need insurance if your state has passed an equine activity liability law or if you regularly use releases of liability.
[sm]
This article does not constitute legal advice. When questions arise based on specific situations, direct them to a knowledgeable attorney.
Julie I. Fershtman is an attorney with 23 years experience who serves the horse industry. She is also the author of two books on equine law.
For more information, visit www.equinelaw.net.
For more information about liability or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com and click on the “Stable Management” channel. To comment on this article, click on “current issue.”
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By Stephanie Corum
T hink the horse industry doesn’t have a large impact on the U.S. economy? Think again. According to figures presented by the American Horse
Council in 2005, we have a far-reaching effect:
• There are 9.2 million horses in the United States in all 50 states.
• 4.6 million Americans are involved in some aspect of the horse industry—as an owner, service provider, employee and/or volunteer.
• The horse industry has a 39 billion dollar direct effect on the U.S.
economy.
• When you consider the multiplier effect of spending by horse people on related goods, the economic impact jumps to $102 billion.
• The industry provides 460,000 full time equivalent jobs.
• The horse industry pays $1.9 billion annually in taxes to all levels of government.
Who Represents Us?
It is the official role of the American
Horse Council (AHC) to promote and protect “all horse breeds, disciplines and interests by communicating with
Congress, federal agencies, the media and the industry itself each and every day.” AHC’s membership includes
160 organizations and 1,200 individual members.
According to Jay Hickey, president of the AHC, currently there are three main legislative fronts requiring lobbying efforts: gambling, immigration and taxes. In addition to these efforts, there are several other equine issues on the national stage.
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g o v e r n m e n t _ »
Immigration Issues
While complete immigration reform was important and a major pre-election topic for President Obama,
Hickey does not see it being brought up in 2009. The AHC supports immigration reform to facilitate a way to bring in workers and legalize those that are already here.
Currently, there is a cap of 66,000
H-2B visas issued annually, and this year that cap was reached on January
7, causing a dire shortage of workers for many industries, including the horse industry. The H-2B visas allow foreign, specialized workers to come in for an 18-month stint for a specific function. In February 2009, Senator
Barbara Mikulski (D-MO) and Senator Arlen Specter (D-PA) introduced the Save Our Small and Seasonal
Businesses Act of 2009. Representative Bart Stupak (D-MI) introduced companion legislation in the House of
Representatives. Under the proposed acts, workers who had an H-2B visa in any of the three previous fiscal years would be exempt from the cap.
However, this exemption will expire three years after the bill is enacted.
Still, this would allow for more individuals to receive the work visa, and give Congress additional time to craft a more permanent solution. The AHC supports this legislation.
Economic Stimulus Bill
The horse industry has received numerous benefits from the American
Recovery and Reinvestment Act of
2009, otherwise known as the stimulus bill. Those who purchase a horse or other business property and put it into service in 2009 can expense up to $250,000 of the cost. This applies to horses, farm equipment and other depreciable property. If the total purchase is $800,000 or more, the expense allowed decreases by $1 for every dollar spent over $800,000.
Owners are allowed to depreciate horses over three years instead of up to seven years.
Another incentive continues the
50-percent first-year bonus depreciation for horses and other depreciable property purchased and put into service in 2009. There are a few requirements, though. The bonus is applicable to any property with a depreciable life of 20 years or less. The property must be new, and if said property is a horse, it cannot have been used for any purpose before buying it.
Many of the details can be confusing. To find out if/how you might qualify for the stimulus bill it is best to talk to your tax accountant.
Funding for Recreational Trails
Also part of the stimulus bill is more than $1.7 billion that goes to the
National Park Service ($750 million),
U.S. Forest Service ($650 million) and the Bureau of Land Management
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3
($320 million). These funds can be used for maintenance and construction of trails and other equine-related facilities. Competition for these funds will be fierce, but the AHC urges that money be spent for trails and other equestrian facilities.
The AHC is working to keep the
Federal Highway Administration’s
Recreational Trails Program (RTP), which provides money to support motorized and non-motorized trail uses. It began in 1991 and was reauthorized in 2005, and over the years has provided about $677 million for trail construction, maintenance and restoration. “The RTP is one of the few sources for federal funding of trail projects that are not on federal land,” says Ben Pendergrass (AHC
Legislative Director). “The program is a great resource for equestrians to fund projects in their state and local parks.” However, if Congress doesn’t act this year, it could be eliminated.
Not only would the AHC like to see the bill reauthorized, it would like spending to increase to $555 million over five years.
Wild Horse and Burro Act
Also in February 2009, Representative Nick Rahall (D-WV) introduced a bill to amend the current Wild Free-
Roaming Horses and Burros Act (aka the Mustang Bill) with the idea to improve the management and long term health of free-ranging horses. In
2005, the ban on selling wild horses was lifted. These horses could now be sold for commercial purposes and excess animals could be sold at public auction. In other words, wild horses could be sold to slaughter.
The new bill would restore the prohibition on commercial sale and slaughter and also not allow healthy horses to be euthanized—only the terminally ill. A horse inventory would have to be kept as well as specific land used for public sanctuaries. Currently, the Bureau of Land Management manages over 33,000 free-roaming horses and burros on public land. In April, this bill passed the House committee and will head for a full House vote.
Currently there are no equine slaughter plants in the U.S., but several states may open facilities. Hickey predicts the slaughter issue will be a
“big part of this Congress” as it has been in past years. The AHC remains neutral on the subject of slaughter.
If you would like to get involved in any of AHC’s lobbying efforts in
Washington, visit their website, www.horsecouncil.org, or e-mail
AHC@horsecouncil.org to sign up.
[sm]
For more information about government issues or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com
and click on the “Stable Management” channel. To comment on this article, click on “current issue.”
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BY CHARLENE STRICKLAND
I s your trailer ready to roll? Before you connect trailer to truck, take the time for a thorough walk-through of your rig.
Is Your Trailer Roadworthy?
First check the moving components, starting with the running gear: tires, brakes and wheels.
Tires.
Just like a horse, a trailer is only as sound as its foundation. The weight of the vehicle and the horses rests on the four tires in a tandem axle trailer. “The very weakest link is the tire,” says Mark Podeyn, Action
Trailer Depot, Albuquerque, N.M.
In motion, weight rests on those tire’s footprints—the “contact patch” where rubber tread meets the road. To roll freely, tires must be inflated correctly. And weather can affect tire pressure, too. CD Turnbow, Turnbow
Trailers, emphasizes what to check:
“Air pressure, air pressure, air pressure. Check all tires’ air before you go.” Measure air pressure when the tires are cold. Underinflated tires can lead to blowouts and overheating because the sidewalls flex too much.
You might consider installing a real-time tire-pressure monitoring system. Such a system lets you watch tire pressure on your truck and trailer while you’re driving.
Beyond addressing tire pressure, check that they are radial tires labeled as trailer tires, and that all match in size. Look for any uneven tread wear, which can indicate whether axles are out of alignment. Check that the tires run straight and true to avoid uneven wear. And avoid exceeding the load rating of your tires.
Also, realize that “tire failures are mostly on the right hand side. The crown of the road shifts weight to the right,” explains Podeyn.
He suggests increasing tire safety on a larger trailer by changing from
16-inch to 17.5-inch tires. “You have more weight capacity and can [help] eliminate blowouts,” he says.
Replace tires that are six years old or older, as the rubber can degrade even if it looks fine. “Even when a tire is sitting there, the compounds of the rubber are breaking down,” says
Podeyn. “The tire is losing air every day. It just permeates through the rubber, because rubber is porous.”
Finally, Podeyn recommends checking the lug nuts for tightness.
Brakes.
Check your brakes before you haul horses. With your empty trailer hitched, Turnbow describes one way to do this. You’ll need to start on a straightaway, with 100 feet of room for a test in reverse.
“Get yourself a clear runway backwards. Adjust your brake control for the highest setting. In reverse, reach 10 mph, and squeeze that brake control lever to apply maximum power to your brakes when the trailer is going backward. It spreads your adjustors to set the brake shoes at the optimum.” What you’re doing is minimizing the space between brake drum and brake shoes.
He adds that the aim is to brake with “a high level of deceleration without sliding the tires, so you don’t ruin the tires. You’re not decelerating as well when your tires are sliding.”
Wheel Bearings and Axles.
“You need to keep them lubricated,” says
Turnbow. “Most axles now have quick greasers on the outside. Don’t overgrease those, because the seal will fail, and grease loss lessens the life of the bearing.”
Turnbow advises having wheel bearings serviced by a professional.
Annual servicing can prevent axle and wheel-bearing failures.
“We recommend once a year, or every 3,000 miles for wheel bearings,” says Podeyn. “When the axle is being serviced, the brakes are inspected.”
Coupler.
The trailer’s coupler
(hitch) and jack must operate smoothly. Make sure your coupler matches the size of the ball. Many couplers are sized for a 2-5/16 ball.
You want the coupler to connect the trailer securely—to remain closed during hauling. “Check the hitch to see it is fully grabbing and locking on the ball,” says Turnbow. “Lower the jack to put a little pressure on the ball to check. Keep on top of that—you don’t want to find out it’s not locked when you’re going over a rough railroad track.”
Whether bumper pull or gooseneck, the jack should easily lift the coupler into position, and lower it without incident. Your gooseneck trailer may have an adjustable coupler, where parts of the coupler raise or lower to connect to the ball in the truck bed. A larger gooseneck trailer may have hydraulic landing gear, operated from the electrical power supply. In a newer trailer, this unit should be maintenance free. On an older model, you may need to add some grease. “Use one tablespoon on the jack,” suggests Turnbow.
When hitched, look to see how level your trailer rides. The trailer’s nose should be angled slightly upward so the trailer rides slightly above level.

Left: Trailer tires wear out with use and time and should be checked often; Middle: Simple tests in your own driveway can alert you to any potential brake problems; Right: Make sure that all the connections are secure when the trailer is hitched.
Moving Parts.
Walk around all sides of your trailer to check the integrity of doors, windows and ramps. On doors, look at all hinges and latches. They should open and close securely.
Turnbow advises, “Don’t be afraid to take WD40 to lubricate everything. But keep oil out of your locks. Use dry graphite lubricant— don’t gum up your locks with oil.”
With swinging rear or side doors, check the exterior connectors that hold doors open for safe loading and unloading. Connectors should fasten firmly, to avoid a door swinging shut unexpectedly.
A ramp that’s spring-assisted is easier to handle. Maintain its condition by opening and closing it without slamming. If ramp hinges are exposed, clean them to be sure they’re not obstructed by hay, shavings or manure.
In a step-up trailer, inspect the bumper. A rubber bumper increases safety. Also, a wide lip over the top prevents debris from working between the bumper and the trailer frame.
On sliding windows, check that they easily open, close, and latch.
With the drop-down windows, make sure that latches are secure on windows and grills. Check the safety of the bars on the grills, which can bend or crack. If you have screens on windows, replace any torn screen.
How Horseproof Is Your Trailer?
Interior.
Examine your trailer interior like you do a stall. Look for smooth interior surfaces, including walls, ceiling and floor. You want to identify and eliminate any protrusion that could injure your horse. Tighten or replace any broken or loose screws or bolts. Interior tie rings should be solidly fastened in place. A trailer designed for safety should have recessed latches on swinging dividers.
Floor.
Your floor should have no weak spots and should be kept clean by periodic washing.
Turnbow explains, “Cleaning depends on the amount of use.” He also notes, “Our floors have ½-inch gaps to allow drainage. That’s important, because urine eats aluminum.”
Stall Dividers.
Look for strong hinges on movable partitions. Springloaded dividers should swing back and forth with little effort, and latches easily close and release.
Turnbow says, “If a divider is creaky or tight, apply a little bit of grease, and open and close the divider. You only need to lubricate the contact points.”
Walls and Ceiling.
Look at wall padding. A newer trailer will probably have rubber lining bonded to the walls—check that the rubber isn’t torn. Vinyl padded breast bars and butt bars can also be torn.
Check roof vents to be sure they operate freely. Modern vents let you adjust air flow either forward or reverse. And don’t forget to scan the interior for wasp nests.
On exterior walls, look for any broken or missing rivets. Try to wiggle outside tie rings, which should be bolted securely. Check fenders for dents or sharp edges. Notice any corrosion—steel rusts, and steel parts on an aluminum trailer can lead to electrolysis and corrosion where the two metals join. Stainless steel fasteners on aluminum reduce electrolysis.
Checking Other Trailer Systems
Roof.
Your trailer’s roof can leak at a seam, or where the roof meets the walls. “There’s always going to be a seam somewhere, and there will always be some sort of penetration, such as roof vents,” says Podeyn. “So do a roof-sealant inspection. There’s nothing worse than opening up your tackroom and finding everything wet.”
He adds that roof sealant does break down. “In any brand, the sealant compounds used require periodic maintenance. It dries, shrinks, and cracks.”
Electrical System.
With your trailer plugged into the tow vehicle, test all the exterior lights. Confirm that your taillights and all running lights illuminate when you turn on your truck headlights. Test for proper brake lights and turn signals. Look for corrosion around bulbs, unless your trailer has sealed beam lights.
Checking your trailer before you haul helps prevent roadside problems.
By reducing trailer hazards, you improve the horses’ comfort and chances for a safe arrival.
[sm]
For more information about trailers or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com and click on the “Farm Equipment” channel. To comment on this article, click on “current issue.”

BY STEPHANIE J. CORUM
F or those who own land, developing the property is a daunting task. The high costs of hay and bedding make pasture board an attractive option, but horses still require some type of shelter. A run-in shed fits the bill nicely.
Most horses are very happy with a shed that they can move in and out of as they please. A structure that is 12’ x 24’ can easily house two horses, sometimes more if they all get along.
you opt for a smaller or larger structure, make adjustments accordingly.
Before your shovel hits the dirt, it is wise to first contact your local planning and zoning office to see what building permits are required, what the minimum setbacks from the property line are and what sized structures are allowed. It may take several weeks to obtain the necessary paperwork. In addition, depending on the
12” to 18” string cross members
(wood could also be used) to create a frame on which the long string is tied. This way there is room to adjust the string to make the corners true 90degree angles. Then measure the distance for the posts and mark the spots on the ground with spray paint.
Unless you are feeling very confident, dig the post-holes as you go, because digging them all at once means that if they end up slightly off, they have to be dug again. Using plenty of posts helps make the shed sturdy. Including a post in the middle allows for a partition to be built.
If you’re a do-it-yourself type and/or have limited funds, constructing a quality run-in shed is relatively simple and inexpensive. Even if you’ve never built anything before, it can be done by only two people and completed in approximately 80 hours.
How do I know? Because my husband and I built our own run-in shed using the following procedure. We had never built a structure before, and we accomplished it with little trouble.
What You’ll Need
You can purchase the materials as you go or all at once. Of course, there’s always something more that you will need, so quick trips to the hardware store are inevitable. The complete list of materials used for constructing a
12’ x 24’ run-in shed can be found at the end of this piece. Obviously, if type of roofing material you choose, you may need to order it several weeks ahead of time. A little planning will help insure a smoother procedure as you go.
Laying Out the Site
Typically, wind and weather blow in from the west and north. Therefore, by facing the open side of the shed to the south or southeast, you will block the majority of bad weather. Choose a relatively level site for the shed, or grade the area so that it is level—we went with the slight natural slope of the ground, which worked well. If you are grading, level the area two feet longer and wider than your shed size:
14’ x 26’ for this structure. Once the area is selected, lay out the basic structure with stakes and heavy string.
The corners can be held together with
Constructing the Frame
The best things to remember are measure, measure again, and measure a third time if you come up with two different answers, and to check for levelness, and check for levelness again. This may be tedious, but it is a lifesaver in the long run.
Start with the back right corner post. Dig a post-hole about two feet deep and about three times the diameter of the post. Gravel is added to the hole and the first 4”x4” x 10’ pressure-treated post is dropped in. Make sure it is level, check for plumbness, and temporarily anchor it by nailing and wedging two small pieces of wood at the base of the post. Holes for the next two posts along the right side can then be measured and dug, and the posts set in place.
Once the outside 12’ post is level and plumb, stabilize the posts by nail-

Left top and bottom: Here the author and her husband construct the frame and then cement the corner posts.
Right top and bottom: A front and rear view of the completed run-in shed. Interiors can be customized for most needs.
ing the first 2”x4” x 12’ board to the outside of the posts. This middle board should be located four feet up from the base of the posts. Following that board, nail a 2”x6” x 12’ board so that the top edge of the board is eight feet up from the base of the posts. Place a pressure-treated 2”x6” x 12’ board across the bottom of the posts, slightly above grade. (Pressure-treated wood is used here because it resists rotting, which is particularly important in a wet climate.) The halfway point between the centerline of the bottom 2”x6” and the middle of the 2”x4” is where the next 2”x4” board is placed. Similarly, position the final 2”x4” between the middle 2”x4” and the top 2”x6”.
Working in 12-foot sections, follow the same procedure along the back and left side of the structure.
Take special care to ensure that all boards are level and flush. Once all the boards are nailed around the perimeter, the corner posts can be braced by nailing a spare 2”x4” board to the top of the post and angling it into the ground.
There are times when inexperience comes into play. My husband and I checked and double checked where the first 2”x4” should go and then we took the plunge and nailed on our first board, he at one end and I at the other. We were thrilled when it was perfectly level and in just the right spot. As we stood back to admire our handiwork, we both noticed that we nailed our board right through an opening in our ladder, which was sitting in the middle of the line. So sadly we had to pull the board off, move the ladder and then re-attach it. Another lesson learned; keep the ladder away from the boards when you are nailing.
To allow for paneling that provides improved aesthetics and stability, nail two rows of 2”x6” x 12’ boards at heights of eight and 10 feet above the finish grade across the open front of the structure. The eight-foothigh 2”x6” should be flush with the side 2”x6” boards to create an eightfoot clearance. Like us, you may also elect to place one 2”x6” x 12’ board on each side of the interior 4”x4” posts to increase the building’s strength.
After all the boards are nailed into place, check and double-check the leveling and plumbing. Once you are satisfied that everything is where it should be, cement all the posts into the ground. Follow the mixing directions on the bags of cement, and make

adjustments with the amount of water if necessary. All of the holes should be filled level with the ground and allowed to harden overnight.
fairly easy to install when following the manufacturer’s specifications.
The sheets need to overlap and are simply nailed into place. One potential drawback is that the material does tear easily if a nail is pulled out.
Adding the Roof
Form the rafters by placing 2”x6” x
14’ boards on their edges and nailing them at an angle into the existing 2”x6” boards, or use rafter hangers. The boards should be spaced two to three feet on center depending on the type of roofing material used.
For a metal or shingled roof, it is strongly recommended that the rafters be placed two feet on center to withstand snow and wind loads. Slide two 2”x6” boards up under the base of the rafters and nail them on the inside of the front and rear 4”x4” posts to provide further strength. Any posts that end up above the rafters can be easily leveled with a circular saw. With the rafters secured, starting from the back of the structure, place 2”x4” planks at two feet on center perpendicular to the rafters.
The roof itself can be made of metal, shingles, etc. We chose a material called Ondura. This flexible, corrugated asphalt material comes in
48”x79” sheets. It is easy to cut and
Adding the sides
For the siding, we used 4’x8’ T1-11 siding sheets because they are pressure treated and have an aesthetic pattern. The layout of the posts and the placement of the boards on the outside allow for a nearly perfect fit for the siding. Before putting on all the siding, check the length of your nails or screws. They have to be strong enough to keep the sides on during inclement weather, but not so large that they go through the 2”x4” and present a safety hazard to the horses.
The first siding sheet is positioned flush with the outside of the back left corner 4”x4” post and the bottom edge of the lower 2”x6”. Use plenty of nails to ensure its security. After completing the first side, take scrap
1”x4” pieces and nail them to the outside edge of the siding which allows you to easily create a 90-degree angle with the siding. The tongue and groove design of the siding makes for quick installation, and the rest of the sheets are added one after the other.
Finishing Touches
If desired, boards can be added across the middle interior and a stall built into one side of the shed. You may also add a smooth interior wall by nailing 2”x6” treated boards along the bottom of the wall with untreated boards above, as these are less expensive. To add a more finished look, you may decide to add 1”x4” trim pieces at the rear and front corners, across the bottom of the rafters, and at the side seams.
Once completed, painting or staining your shed will help protect the wood. The rough surface isn’t the easiest to paint, so either use a primer, or apply two coats of basic latex outdoor house paint.
With a little time and effort the horses in your care will have a wonderful place to call home that will last for years.
[sm]
For more information on run-in sheds or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com and click on the “Barns” channel. To comment on this article, click on
“current issue.”
List of Materials, Tools and Equipment
For the Structure
Item
4x4 x 10’ pressure-treated posts
4x4 x 12’ pressure-treated posts
1x2 x 12’ pressure treated
1x4 x 8’ pressure treated
(8 are used as side flashing for the Ondura roof)
1x4 x 12’ pressure treated
1x6 x 10’ pressure treated
2x4 x 12’ pine
2x6 x 8’ pressure treated
2x6 x 10’ pine
2x6 x 12’ pine
2x6 x 12’ pressure treated
2x6 x 14’ pine
Sack concrete
T1 11 siding sheets, 4’x8’
10d 3-inch galvanized spiral thread exterior nails
1-1/4-inch exterior wood screws (for siding)
5
2
Quantity
6
12
2
10
4
10
2
2
28
2
14 bags
15
7 lbs.
2-3 lbs.
3-inch exterior wood screws (for frame and joist)
Ondura roofing material, 48”x79”
Ondura roofing washer nails water sealer paint or stain
2-3 lbs.
14 sheets
300
1 gallon
For Construction string
1/2”x12” wooden or metal stakes spray paint
4’ or 6’ level square shovel electric drill power saw
18” auger or post-hold digger screw gun chainsaw
16’ to 20’ ladder

BY HEATHER SMITH THOMAS
O ne of the challenges for barn managers when hay is not the best or most feasible option is to find a suitable alternative. If you have a horse with a serious breathing problem or hay supplies are scarce or high priced, you need a replacement that will still keep horses healthy when forage choices are limited. There are a number of things that can be used for stretching meager hay supplies, and some can be used as a replacement for hay. But care must be taken to make sure these will actually work for the horses in your care.
FOR THE HORSE THAT
CAN’T TOLERATE HAY
Stephen Duren, an equine nutritionist based in Idaho (Performance Horse
Nutrition), says some horses have respiratory issues or a disease that dictates a forage alternative must be fed out to avoid the dust in hay.
It’s often safest to use pelleted forage or cubes, to reduce the amount of dust. “This eliminates the natural stirup of dust that would occur with a flake of hay. Pellets or cubed products can be either grass or alfalfa. You can usually assume that this feed will be good quality, since manufacturers don’t put poor hay into pellets,” he says.
If you would still like to feed hay,
“Just having good quality hay as the ingredient will eliminate some of the dust,” Duren says. Overly mature hay
(brittle and shattering) or hay that was put up too dry (and dusty) or too wet
(molding) causes the most problems.
“With some special-needs horses that require low sugar products because they are overly sensitive to carbohydrates, pelleted forage products work, as well—avoiding some of the grass hays that routinely have high sugar content or using pelleted alfalfa products. Some other fiber sources can be digested like hay—things like beet pulp and soy hulls,” says Duren.
These provide fiber and are healthy for gut function, but are also highly digestible and provide good nutrition.
“Soybean hulls (seed coats) and beet pulp have about the same
Beet pulp makes a very good substitute for hay and is a good source of fiber, but it does contain more energy. The pellets also need to be thoroughly soaked before feeding out to horses.

digestible energy content as oats, and they are safe to feed—like a fiber— but contain more energy than hay. We see a lot of forage extender pellets that use the combination of pelleted forage such as alfalfa or grass, with added alternate fiber sources such as beet pulp, soy hulls or alfalfa meal as a means for keeping fiber level high.
These can be used as a forage substitute or forage extender. But they typically have a higher calorie content than hay,” he adds.
EVALUATE FIBER SOURCES
Some commercial feeds contain more than 20 percent crude fiber, and this is enough to keep the horse’s digestive tract healthy without any hay at all. But all fiber is not created equal.
Many pelleted or cubed products that contain alternative fibers like beet pulp, but other products may rely on fiber sources such as rice hulls or straw. “These can help with gut fill, but be aware that non-digestible fiber sources are not supplying any nutrients,” says Duren. If you are paying a premium for something the horse gets no nutritional value from, you might want to reconsider. Pick a feed designed to be a hay replacement, so it will have the right combination of both digestible and less digestible fibers—more like what a horse would be eating if he were on hay and pasture, Duren says.
Of course, there are some horses for whom less-digestible feed is a good thing—an overweight, retired gelding, for instance. “Rice hulls have very low digestibility; they’re like eating bedding. If a product is 15 percent rice hulls, that’s 15 percent of the feed that’s just going straight on through,” Duren notes. But it does
Be Cautious When Using Alternative Sources
You may be tempted to try some of the fiber sources fed to cows, but these may not work for horses. The horse has a one-way digestive tract and cannot vomit to get rid of bad feed, while a cow is always burping up food to rechew it, and can readily regurgitate something disagreeable.
The cattle industry uses many diverse feedstuffs because ruminant animals can utilize a wider variety of feeds than can horses. Cattle can eat many types of crop residues and by-products from other industries, such as leftovers from processing potatoes and other human foods, distiller’s grains, etc. There are many things routinely fed to cattle that might not be safe to feed your horse.
“Cattle are often wintered on cornstalks, for instance, but this can be risky for horses. If there’s any corn left in the field, there’s always the chance it might be moldy, and this could result in abortion or moldy corn poisoning in horses,” says equine nutritionist Stephen Duren. Corn silage is also not as safe for horses as it is for cattle, and the same is true with byproducts from food processing plants and ethanol production. Consult an equine nutritionist before experimenting with this type of alternative feed.
Straw is often fed to cattle, with the ration balanced by a protein supplement. Horses readily eat straw, but cannot break it down as thoroughly as cows. “A small amount of good clean straw may not be harmful, but straw has a high lignin (a non-digestible fiber) component, which can plug the horse’s digestive tract,” Duren says. Impaction is always a risk if horses eat a lot of straw.
Some types of hay should never be fed to horses because of health concerns. Kleingrass may cause liver damage. Johnsongrass, sorghum-sudan crosses and millets may contain prussic acid. Endophyte infected fescue should not be grazed or fed to broodmares. Kochia can also cause problems in horses. If faced with hay or feed choices you are not familiar with, check with your vet or local extension agent.
—HST fill the gut, warding off hunger.
All this means that you must pay attention to the fiber source in commercial feeds. This is especially true this summer. Duren warns that “beet pulp will to be in short supply this year, and manufacturers may be looking elsewhere for fiber sources.”
Check labels, compare products, evaluate the contents and make wise decisions as you plan ahead for stretching your hay supply.
WHEN HAY IS HARD TO FIND
The big challenge when trying to find a hay alternative is that many horses, especially easy keepers, don’t need the extra calories contained in some of these pelleted alternatives. If you feed only the amount needed to maintain the horse’s body weight, he’ll feel shortchanged because of minimal gut fill and still be hungry.
“Rate of intake for pelleted forage is much different than with long-stem hay. The horse will consume pellets faster. A horse that’s an easy keeper will finish his meal very quickly, become bored, and since he’s not very full he will chew stall fronts, board fences, etc. to try to satisfy his fiber requirements,” says Duren.
If you have a horse that’s overweight and an easy keeper and you must limit his meals to a small volume of pellets, hay alternatives are difficult, because they have more calories.
“The only thing you can do is increase his exercise, to burn the calories so he can be given larger meals and feel more satisfied,” says Duren.
“These are the hardest individuals to deal with. For the average horse that’s being worked, the forage alternatives generally work very well.”
If you have some long-stem hay available and can feed forage alternatives/extenders along with it, this is a better situation. This improves the healthiness of the diet, and if the horse is also active and burning calories, he can be given enough forage extender to satisfy his need for gut fill. “On the flip side, if you have a horse that’s not active, is overweight, and you are trying to use forage extenders, they often

make the problem worse.
“These are the horses you should probably save some hay for, and use forage extenders for working horses.
If you can get some local hay, so none of your horses are on a complete pelleted diet, this is better. They need some long-stem hay so they have something to do,” he says.
This highlights another precaution: don’t wait until you are nearly out of hay before you buy a forage alternative or forage extender. “Plan ahead. If you have X amount of hay that’s half the tonnage you would normally feed, plan to blend it all the way through the year, so you’ll always have a little long-stem forage available and not run out, even though nutrient requirements are being met by forage extenders or alternative products,” says Duren.
For example, if you only have three months’ supply of hay in the barn, you can use a complete feed for part of the diet and stretch the hay to last six months. For every 1.5 pounds of hay you are replacing, you can use
Alfalfa pellets (top) and hay cubes (left) can be used as an alternative to hay, though they do have more calories. Most use these pelleted and cubed products as a forage extender. Used alone, the horse quickly finishes the pelleted forage and is prone to boredom.
a pound of the complete feed.
“Planning ahead is not hard. If you buy a truckload of hay at a time, and you normally feed three or four truckloads per year and can only get or afford two this year, start from the beginning and make dietary adjustments for the horses so the hay will stretch, and they won’t have a drastic adjustment when you run out of forage.”
If you are short of hay, you can also contact your county extension system. They put hay suppliers in touch with buyers. “In Texas, when they have a drought, the extension service puts barn owners in touch with hay growers outside the region, and can help facilitate large volumes of hay shipped in. People can order semi-loads of hay to share with neighboring farms and split the freight costs, for instance,” he says.
Problems such as drought or economic downturns don’t pop up overnight. Think about alternatives ahead of time, so you can spread the cost or make it less of a shock.
[sm]
Change Feeds
Gradually
According to Pete Gibbs, PhD
(Extension Horse Specialist, Texas
A&M), changing hay or changing from any type of feed to another should be done gradually. Don’t wait until the last minute to get a new batch of hay or try an alternative feed. Allow enough time to make the change slowly. Research at Texas A&M during drought years showed that changes in hay type is the biggest single factor causing digestive problems and colic. Horses that had a change in the previous two weeks were nine times more likely to suffer colic than horses that had not had any changes. In research feed trials, it is standard procedure to try to use an adaptation phase of 21 days to get the horses’ digestive tracts acclimated to any new feed.
Gibbs also advises weighing each portion of hay before you feed it, if you are trying to stretch your hay supply. “To keep the digestive tract healthy, feed no less than .75 percent of the horse’s body weight daily in long stem hay,” he says. “If you are adding concentrate feeds to the diet to decrease the need for hay, you can use concentrates containing 14 percent or more crude fiber, which will let you cut back to as little as .5 percent body weight in long stem hay. But make the change gradually—adding the concentrate and reducing the hay—rather than all at once.”
Gibbs recommends checking at http://animalscience.tamu.edu
online under the section on equine science for information on selection and use of hay and processed roughages for horses.
—HST
For more information, about feed or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com and click on the “Feed and Supplements” channel. To comment on the article, click on “current issue.”

BY STEPHANIE STEPHENS
Y our client’s horse appears uncomfortable at best, lame in the worstcase scenario. You suspect navicular or chronic heel pain syndrome, a.k.a, navicular disease.
The navicular bone is actually a distal sesamoid bone, located behind the coffin or distal phalanx bone and
“directs” tension of the deep digital flexor tendon into the horse’s foot. It’s a little bone with a big job, and yet this disease is still quite mysterious.
“Navicular syndrome is a mechanical disease resulting in progressive and chronic degeneration,” says Martin Vidal, BVSc, PhD,
DACVS, assistant professor of equine surgery at the University of California, Davis. Navicular, as it is often called, is believed to result from inappropriate foot balance, shoeing and long-term management of the foot. It also stems from what we ask of our horses: jumping fences and riding on hard surfaces with us on their backs, for instance.
Diagnosis can be tricky. Your first clues to navicular: Horses presenting with it often have a stilted gait or shortened stride, not moving as freely—or perhaps not turning as fluidly. This incurable, relatively common condition also tends to be bilateral, or on both sides. “Telltale signs are that the horse may walk or land on the toe first rather than the heel—normal gait occurs over the heel rather than toe,” Vidal notes.
Who Suffers Most?
“Certain horses are more predisposed because of shorter pasterns or a narrower and upright foot conformation and position of the feet, which impose abnormal pressure on the navicular bone. This results in pain and bone remodeling, which eventually become visible in the form of radiographic (x-ray) changes.”
Quarter Horses, Warmbloods, and also Thoroughbreds may suffer from navicular more than many other breeds, Dr. Vidal observes. “There may be a hereditary component to the shape of the navicular bone surface as it has been shown for the Dutch
Warmblood horse,” he adds. Both size and conformation of the foot in horses in general are also thought to be implicated.
“Besides conformation, the degree of athletic activity and use of the animal is also a determinant,” says
Dr. Vidal. “Even a younger animal, depending on career requirements or breed, may be at risk.”
The most important factors in preventing navicular disease are good footing and appropriate hoof care. “If the ground is too hard,” says Dr.
Vidal, “you may run into soundness problems.”
Diagnosis
An initial clinical exam will determine whether the horse is rolling over its heel or not, or pointing its toes excessively. Hoof testers, a thorough lameness examination, and diagnostic techniques, including radiology, will usually expose serious degenerative changes—those telltale bony abnormalities, which include “cones” or “lollipops” on the radiographs of the navicular bone surface.
“Skyline” views of the navicular bone, with a normal radiographic series of the foot, “will tell us a great deal about the health of the bone,” says Dr. Vidal.
Magnetic resonance imaging
(MRI) may now be used to collect more subtle information. It can illustrate, for example, edema formation within the navicular bone that would not normally show on a radiograph.
Pictures in hand, it’s time for a plan. “We want to always treat the horse, not just the radiographs,” says
Dr. Vidal, who may incorporate additional diagnostics such as nerve blocks to assess the horse’s response.
Digging deeper, persistent pain can also be due to soft-tissue lesions in the foot on top of navicular disease, best seen with an MRI or contrast computed tomography (CT) scan.
What To Do Now
Veterinarians are increasingly teaming up with farriers for successful therapeutic interventions. “It is a disservice to underestimate the value of approaching treatment adequately through shoeing,” Dr. Vidal says.
But healthy feet depend upon a lifetime of quality trimming and shoeing rather than constant medications or on-the-spot treatments. So instead of focusing on specific foot areas, it’s best to evaluate the overall health of the foot. Even going barefoot is making a comeback, supported by studies from top navicular researchers that find that trimming the foot to become weightbearing over the frog, sole and bars, to distribute weight evenly, results in a more mature development of fibrous tissue within the digital cushion.
“Shod horses are fairly underdeveloped in that way. A horse moving in nature freely will have a stronger, more developed foot,” Dr. Vidal says.
Then there is the surgery option.
Perhaps you’re familiar with digital neurectomy, or “nerving,” a salvage procedure often recommended for long-term problems.

Left: This is a dorsopalmar view taken with the camera from the front at a downward angle of the navicular bone superimposed within P2 (pastern bone) with the plate below the foot . The navicular changes in the bone are those faint “lollipop” invaginations, which you can see at the distal end of the navicular bone. Right: This is a skyline image of the navicular bone taken with the radiographic camera behind the horse’s leg shooting at an angle approximately parallel to the dorsal hoof wall onto a plate, which is positioned below the horse's foot. It highlights the navicular bone, which looks like a little
“boat” (hence the name navicular bone), partially superimposed on P3 (coffin bone). The irregularity of the navicular bone cortex and of the medullary bone within the cortical margins indicate navicular disease.
Among surgical techniques employed, neurectomy is most common and involves resecting or removing nerves within the pastern area, taking away sensation or feeling to the foot. It’s life-changing and makes horse management even more crucial—this may involve stable confinement or minimal pasture time and more intense management of the horse to monitor for possible foot injuries. It’s a Catch-22 since regular, controlled turnout, versus confinement, on acceptable footing stimulates circulation and is beneficial to the overall health of the foot.
“Put simply, the horse is not going to feel as much any more. Turn him out to pasture, he could step on a nail or seriously bruise his foot, and you wouldn’t know,” says Dr. Vidal.
After this surgery, “which doesn’t last forever and isn’t a permanent solution,” the remnant nerve ends may re-establish sensation or may develop painful tumors called neuromas. Signs of some nerve sensation may re-occur in 1.5 to 2 years.
Relief of clinical symptoms is realized in 65 percent of horses for between 1 to 1.5 years in duration, and yes, you can “do it again but it may not be as effective,” Vidal says.
As to medications, the use of
Isoxsuprine is popular, which Dr.
Vidal agrees “may” help increase peripheral vasodilation or circulation.
“Nobody really knows the mode of action, but it affects the way red blood cells travel through a horse’s vascular system,” he says.
Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medications such as phenylbutazone, or flunixin meglumine, and intraarticular medications with corticosteroids such as triamcinolone are other categories of drugs that are often called into battle against navicular. Complications with neuromas may respond to local treatment with corticosteroids.
Mixed results are reported in veterinary literature about the “natural” analgesic and chemical neurotoxin
Sarapin, derived from the Pitcher
Plant and injected around the palmar digital nerves. Results last approximately a month. Alcohol has also been used to numb these nerves, with socalled “chemical neurectomies,” often used to assess the horse’s ultimate response to a surgical neurectomy.
“A horse with navicular syndrome that is managed appropriately can have a productive life,” Dr. Vidal says,
“but if you have a choice between a horse that has it and one that doesn’t, consider going with the one that does not.” That’s good advice in this economy, a buyer’s market.
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Dr. Vernon C. Dryden, DVM, is an in-demand veterinarian, podiatrist and
AFA-certified farrier currently practicing at the respected Rood & Riddle
Equine Hospital in Lexington, Ky. When treating navicular disease in his practice, he says it frequently involves either the upright or low-angle foot.
“Given the diagnosis and area of the lesion, we can tailor-make our shoeing to fit that horse,” says Dr. Dryden. “If the horse has, for example, an adhesion (adherence or “sticking to”) of the deep digital flexor surface of the navicular bone, the horse would benefit from having a wedged shoe to elevate the heel. Also these horses benefit from having a rocker toe or rolled toe—that’s where we put a very gradual bend in the shoe so it has a gradual slope to the ground surface and reduces the breakover point of the foot.”
The art of farriery as a real science is apparent, as it is becoming one of the leading treatment modalities for navicular disease, and is, he says, emerging as a specialty within equine medicine. Although there currently is no residency program or board certification yet within this specialized discipline, veterinary medicine is visibly moving in that direction, no doubt because of the effectiveness of shoeing as a major assist to horses with not only navicular disease, but many other debilitating problems of the foot.

BY STEPHEN HALL
W hen a person decides to gallop into the horse business, it usually stems from a very particular passion— breed, discipline, etc. And, subsequently, that barn becomes focused on attracting clients with similar interests. The business’ identity often becomes inseparably attached to whatever drove the owner to start the business in the first place. Too often, though, inflexibility or an unwillingness to embrace different trends leads to missed revenue opportunities.
Picture this scenario: A barn manager is going about his or her daily activities and is also being peppered with questions from boarders. The manager responds to each as personably as possible, but silently dismisses the interactions as unreasonable requests from the resident squeaky wheels.
Slowly, but surely, those boarders full of questions and suggestions start to pull out of the barn. The owner realizes that the sad, and unprofitable, part of the picture is that nothing new is happening at the barn. The core group of long-term boarders continues to provide consistent revenue, but turnover replacements no longer stimulate the environment with their fresh enthusiasm, which is often accompanied by enthusiastic spending. There just weren’t any new clients knocking down the doors.
Our manager might have avoided this predicament by listening more closely to those persistent questions and suggestions. Whether it was a recent magazine article about a new technique, a new approach to horsemanship and training, or a shift in the style of equipment offered at the local tack stores, the boarders’ comments were dismissed because they reflected a riding style or interest that did not fit with the barn’s original mission.
Flexible Missions
Corporate mission statements intend to provide a framework for developing strategies and driving the activities of the company. But that doesn’t mean that they can’t, and shouldn’t, be changed.
One prominent example: Mighty
IBM, once a benchmark manufacturer of business equipment, realized in the
1990s that the future looked dim for mainframe manufacturing. Self-analysis revealed that the company had developed a core strength in consulting. As a result it shifted its business model, eventually selling off manufacturing divisions to focus on a new service-oriented model. It did not happen overnight, but IBM completely changed its business. In some situations, a similar adjustment to your business could realign your barn’s identity with industry trends and the dollars that follow those trends.
You might ask yourself how dramatic a shift might be necessary to spark new interest in your barn among the local community. The answer will have everything to do with what your clients—and potential clients—might be interested in doing with their horses.
Of course, there are limits to how much you can change your stripes. If your barn trains barrel racers, but you decide to try hunters, you might encounter some resistance within your barn. The barn that once bred top draught horses, however, may have an easier time adapting its breeding program to accommodate warmblood sporthorses.
Often, there is much business benefit to be gained from compromise.
With just a small change your business can instantly open the potential for exposure to previously unavailable market segments.
Considering a Change
Fortunately, there are alternatives to abandoning your personal vision of the perfect barn for the sake of staying in business. A creative barn manager needs to step back and assess her situation from the perspective of a prospective client.
It is appropriate to consider what trends have changed the local horse community. Are they fundamental changes in the horse industry? Have new riders gravitated to an equine sport other than your specialty? Are boarders asking for services or amenities that your barn does not offer, but could with some effort or investment?
Are they willing to pay for those services or amenities? If the boarders are willing to pay, would they be willing to change barns in order to gain those services or amenities?
It is also appropriate to consider how your facility could be adapted for use in new ways. What impact would the changes you are considering have on your current boarders?
Finally, you must consider your willingness to compromise that vision of your perfect barn. Entertain the possibility that the professional challenge and the new clients may lead to a barn even more perfect than you ever imagined. If the business changes that you are considering spark a new interest in your current boarders, you stand to find yourself in a situation where everyone comes out a winner. The boarders gain some horsemanship education and skill; you create a new revenue stream and generate some real client satisfaction.
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For more information about business or related subjects, visit www.stable-management.com and click on the “Stable Management” channel. To comment on this article, click on “current issue.”

Aloe Advantage introduces Big & Sexy Tail
Scrub. The scrub exfoliates and moisturizes using sea salt with essential oils that lift dry and dead skin cells from the crest of the horse’s mane and from the base to the dock of the horse’s tail. Big & Sexy Tail Scrub comes in a lemon grass formula so the user benefits, too.
For more information, contact Aloe
Advantage at 1-800-821-5570 or check out www.aloeadvantage.com.
Alltech introduced Lifeforce Formula at the Rolex Kentucky Three-
Day Event. The formula is a once-a-day natural nutritional supplement designed for all horses at every stage of life. According to the manufacturers,
Lifeforce helps create an ideal digestive environment, maintain peak body and muscular condition, improve hoof health and coat condition and promote overall healthy growth. The supplement is available in 5-kilo pails, which provide a 90-day supply.
For more information, visit www.alltechadvantage.com.
!
Masterfeeds, Inc., announces the launch of Fusion, a high fat and fiber feed. The feed is formulated with an elevated level of fiber calories, as well as a seven-percent fat content derived from allvegetable sources. The feed is designed for equine athletes with a reduced level of starches and sugars.
Fusion also contains flax for Omega 3 fatty acids, vitamin
E, Alltech Bioplex trace minerals, and Yea-Sacc 1026, which works as a digestive aid and gut stabilizer.
For more information, check out www.masterfeeds.com.
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The makers of Horse Fly Net introduce new uses for their popular netting. First comes Compost Cover, a net that can be placed over a pile of manure, which expedites the decomposition process by letting air and water pass through the net to help keep the interior temperature at 140 degrees. The net also creates a barrier to flies. Another product called Hay-Shade protects hay from sun and weather bleaching, but it is porous enough to allow the hay to breathe. It also protects against birds.
For more information, check out www.horseflynet.com.
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Dover Saddlery is now offering the Whip Clip by Dos Equine. The
Whip Clip is a convenient way to hold on to an unneeded whip or bat while still mounted, eliminating the need to drop a whip, leave it behind, or stick it in a boot. Simply slide the Whip Clip onto a tall boot or half chap and insert the whip into place.
According to manufacturers, the whip can be easily removed with one hand, allowing the rider to maintain contact on the reins.
For more information, call 1-800-989-1500 to request your free catalog or visit www.doversaddlery.com.
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I have a boarder who, after her horse was on stall rest with a very swollen leg for four days, still did not want to call a vet. She got angry with me for pressing the issue and now she is leaving. I am liberal about trying a day or two of
Banamine, Bute, or SMZs, but what rules do you have regarding the rights of the barn owners to call the vet if the boarder refuses?
—Dressage Queen, Finding Out Website
ANSWER #1—CALL ANIMAL CONTROL
When a boarder refuses medical treatment for a horse where it is truly indicated, you need to have her sign a statement that says she refuses to call a vet in order to protect you and your business. It should also be built into your boarding contract that boarders are responsible for veterinary charges, and with that in mind, call a vet in to check the animal out. If you don’t do this, you might be liable for negligence and abuse. Another possibility is to report the situation to animal control. They can speak to the owner and they have the power to force her to seek medical attention or they can confiscate her horse.
I had a situation that was very serious and I urged the owner to hospitalize the horse. She refused and tried treating the horse with twenty different herbal treatments, which did nothing. After three days of intense arguments,
I went to animal control and they came out and confiscated the horse. The horse died three days later while under animal control’s care. Of course, the boarder left without paying what she owed, but I bade good riddance to someone who cared so little for her horse.
—Carol Holmes, White Cloud Ranch, Calif.
ANSWER #4—PUT IT IN YOUR CONTRACT
My boarding contract, which is written by my insurance company, says, “In event of boarded horse illness or injury: Should the horse(s) become sick or injured, this stable shall attempt to telephone the owner immediately.
If the owner does not immediately inform this stable regarding measures to be taken, or if the state of the animal’s health requires immediate action, this stable is authorized to request the services of a veterinarian of its choice or to give any other attention that appears necessary. The owner shall promptly pay all expenses for all services.”
When this situation arises at my barn, I first call the boarder, then I call the vet. I will also pay the vet myself
(because I don’t want the vet to not come because my boarders don’t pay) and put it on their bill. For this, I add a 10-percent charge. Under normal circumstances, I give the boarder the opportunity to be there and pay the vet directly.
—Mary, Horse Around Acres
ANSWER #2—REQUIRE INSURANCE
In my boarding contract, there is a separate clause that says that in the event a horse becomes ill or gets injured, that I will first try to contact the owner, and then I will contact a vet, even if I haven’t been able to track down the owner. And I take it one step further. We require that all horses that board with us carry major medical and mortality insurance. That way, if there is an emergency, noone can complain about costs, etc.
—Jennifer Kosner, via e-mail
ANSWER #3—CHECK STATE LAWS
I would start by checking if your state has any laws that are applicable. I know that in my state it clearly states that a boarding facility has the right to call for medical help in the case of injury or illness and that the owner is responsible for any associated costs. I post this information on a sign at my stable and I also include it in my boarding contract.
I’ve never had to use this, but my neighbors were forced to because of one stubborn boarder—thankfully, the horse got better and that boarder got fined by the state.
—Cindy McAdams, via e-mail
NEXT ISSUE’S QUESTION
It came to light recently how one boarder was costing me a huge amount of money and I did not notice. I did not think twice when a boarder would clean her horse’s stall almost daily until I found out she was not just cleaning but adding bedding. I did not sweat a boarder taking an extra flake of hay until I found out her horse was getting twice the normal amount and wasting much of it. I did not think twice when a boarder would crank up the tack room heat, until I found the door wide open several times. I did not think twice about a boarder using the wash stall often until I found out she would take the nozzle off the hose and let the hot water run. It took two months before the financial impact hit home. I fixed some problem areas, the boarder is gone, and I installed a programmable thermostat. Any ideas for the hot water and hay? I am thinking about locking up my hay.
—Joe, Stable
“Finding Out” is a regular column and we invite you to respond with your solutions...or send along a question of your own. Please send responses and questions to jenn@stable-management.com, fax them to (203) 266-
0452 or mail them to Stable Management , P.O. Box 644,
Woodbury, CT 06798. Finding Out can also be found on our website at www.stable-management.com.
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