Around the World BANGLADESH Wal-Mart wants rebate on garment orders Wal-Mart, the world's largest retailer of clothing, wants a 2% rebate on its current orders of Bangladeshi RMG products. Industry insiders said the US-based WalMart buys RMG products worth $1.7 billion a year from Bangladesh, adding that currently it buys the products from more than 200 garment factories in Bangladesh. The major products that Wal-Mart purchases include T-shirts, shirts, polo shirts, pullovers, home textiles, bed sheets and trousers. Other major buyers are Tesco, JC Penny, Zara, GAP, H&M, Adidas, Puma, Marks and Spencer, PVH, G-STAR and S Oliver. Iftequer Hossain, the owner of Total Apparel, a local buying house, said WalMart has asked for the rebate on its current orders. This rebate on sales to Wal-Mart may continue through next year as it continued in other countries. The rebate is yet to be fixed on the alreadyshipped RMG products. President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Anwar-ul-Alam Chowdhury Parvez said such rebate will hit the profitability of the local RMG suppliers. The price index for exportable local apparel items declined by more than 1% over the last fiscal year, while the cost of doing business in Bangladesh, particularly in the RMG sector increased by 15%. Bangladesh earned $10.699 billion through exports of woven and knitwear -the two sub-sectors of RMG -- in fiscal year 2007-08, according to the Export Promotion Bureau. Garment manufacturers get tax and loan waiver The government of Bangladesh has taken steps to waive income tax and default loans of 270 ailing garment industries to rehabilitate, revive and help those resume production. According to the government the sick industries will also get an opportunity to receive fresh loan and repay the principal amount of their default bank loans with 10 yearly instalments. The BGMEA will submit a list specifying 270 garment factories to the Finance Ministry, while the Ministry will issue a separate circular by relaxing the conditions of the Cost of Fund Recovery. 20 PTJ October 2008 Bangladesh Bank will take necessary steps after getting the list of the organizations concerned, while the Commerce Ministry will send letters to the ministries of Finance and Law for disposal of the cases pending with the 'Artharin' (financial loan) and 'Deulia' (bankruptcy) courts. The Commerce Ministry will also send letter to the National Board of Revenue (NBR) as per recommendations of the inter-ministerial committee for repayment of debts by instalments and waiver of unrealized income taxes. Duty-free access to United States faces setback Bangladeshi readymade garments (RMG) may face a setback in its effort to win duty- and quota-free access to the American market as US authorities have responded positively to the appeal of few African countries to exclude ready made garments from New Partnership Act (NPDA) 2007. Ghana and Mali have recently requested Jim McDermott, Chairman of the Ways and Means Sub-committee of the US House of Representative, for excluding five categories of Bangladeshi textile and apparel products from facilities under NPDA. McDermott proposed exclusion of three categories of Bangladeshi textile and apparel products provided under the NPDA. On several occasions, Bangladesh has tried to make it clear to the African countries that the country's duty free excess to the US market under NPDA will not hamper schemes such as African Growth and Opportunity Act. The Government of Bangladesh still maintains that it is not a threat to African LDCs in terms of apparel exports to US market. African LDCs will face real challenges in the textile and apparel sector from China, once the US withdraws its safeguard measures in January 2009. CHINA Continuous rise of Yuan hits textile export firms China's textile industry will start to lose money if the Yuan continues to appreciate. With their average profit margin currently at 3%, textile companies will no longer be able to absorb the cost of the rising Yuan, said the report by the National Development and Reform Commission (NDRC). After China allowed its currency to appreciate by 2% in July last year to 8.11% against the US dollar and linked it to a basket of currencies instead of the US dollar alone. This reference rate is an indicative mid-point for the Yuan exchange rate, from which the currency can move within a 0.3% floating band, either up or down, each day. Chinese textile manufacturers have been marking down their prices this year to sustain exports and offset the negative impact of the rising Yuan. As exporters earn only an average of 30 US cents from the export of a shirt, the appreciation of the Yuan underlines the need to sustain their competitiveness through technical innovation and intellectual property rights protection rather than through price cuts, said Li Lingmin, Vice-President of the China National Textiles Imports and Exports Corporation. The growth rate of China's textile exports has slowed but they still rank the highest in the world. Decline in textile exports to EU and United States The growth rate of China's textiles and apparel exports to the European Union and the United States dropped 45% and 70% respectively year on year, according to a report prepared by the China National Textile Industry Council (CNTIC). Last year, China reached agreements with both the European Union (EU) and the United States to limit the growth of its textile exports. The Sino-US deal allowed China's exports of 21 clothing and textile categories to the United States to grow at 10% to 15% in 2006, 12.5% to 16% in 2007 and 15% to 17% in 2008. According to the Sino-EU agreement, China's export growth of 10 categories of textile products to the EU will be limited to between 8% and 12.5% annually from 2005 to 2007. China's exports of restricted textile products to the United States and the EU decreased 31.71% and 29.69% year on year in the first half of the year, according to the CNTIC report. The report showed China's textile exports to other countries and regions excluding the EU and the United States rose 24.49%, reaching a value of US $64.032 billion. The CNTIC indicated that the EU and US restrictions on China's textiles and apparel were the main reasons for the decline in the growth of textile exports. Around the World EUROPEAN UNION Imports of cotton bed linen EU cotton bed linen imports are no longer rising this year after a surge in 2007. Turkish suppliers are being weakened by elimination of quotas on Chinese products and a new reduction in prices due to the decline in the US dollar. Shipments from China are surging on the segment of printed bed linen, while Pakistan is further gaining shares on the non-printed segment. EU's import market for printed cotton bed linen is surging this year with Pakistan expected taking a very large share, after it was again granted the GSP treatment and obtained lower antidumping duties. Data from Eurostat confirms that the EU import market is concentrated in the hands of upto five major suppliers includ- ing market leader, Pakistan. Consequently, Pakistani share of the EU import market has risen to 38% while nearest rival Turkey sees its share drop to 22% after volumes fell 9.6% at the same time. India remains in third position but Bangladesh had closed the gap to within 2 percentage points in terms of import market share after improving on its 2005 growth. INDIA Textile machinery exports stagnate The exports of the textile machinery are estimated to be remaining steady at Rs 485 crore in fiscal 2007-08 as against Rs 489 crore in fiscal 2006-07 as the demand for textile machinery has come down, according to the Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (TMMA). Exports remained stagnant over the last 3 years due to high domestic demand and tough competition in the export market. The textile machinery industry did not do well in 2007-08. The slowdown in the textile industry during 2007-08 affected the growth of the textile engineering industry (TEI) considerably, as it has come down from 26% to only 7%. There is likely to be negative growth during 2008-09, said Sridhar Varadaraj, Chairman, Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association. The production of textile machinery, parts and accessories, has increased from Rs 2,799 crore in 2006-07 to Rs 2,997 crore in 2007-08, recording an annual growth of 7% over the previous year and a capacity utilisation of 79% during the year. Import of textile machinery reduced from Rs 9,434 crore during 2006-07 to Rs 7,500 crore during 200708, due to good demand from weaving, knitting, processing and garment sectors. The earlier spurt in demand from the textile industry had triggered the TEI to develop and expand the machinerymanufacturing capacity, particularly in the spinning machinery sector. PTJ October 2008 21 Around the World INDIA Textile and clothing exports The country’s textile and clothing exports are expected to fall short of the target and the gap between actual exports and the target for 2008-09 may be as high as 21%. According to the latest Textile Ministry estimates, at $24.6 billion, exports will be 20% higher than last year’s level of $20.5 billion. The government had estimated textile exports of $31.17 billion this year but a rise in cotton and other raw material prices is creating the shortfall in the target. Prem Malik, Chairman of the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council said that total exports will be somewhere around $23 billion. The target set by the government to reach exports worth $55 billion by 2012 may also remain a distant dream. The government estimates that by 2012, the industry size will be around $110 billion, of which around $60 billion will be domestic market size. India is the world’s second largest cotton grower after China, with a production of 31.5 million bales. India’s textile exports had shot up from $14.03 billion in 2004-05 to $20.25 billion in 2007-08, the hype built on the potentially improved performance in the post-quota regime since 2004 remained largely a mirage, due to a combination of adverse factors that eroded the competitiveness of Indian textiles both in price and quality with China, Pakistan and Bangladesh making steady inroads into major market in the US. The sources say that the 9.4% growth in textile exports in dollar terms during 2007-08 has to be seen against the backdrop of exports growing barely by 1.5% in the first seven months of the last fiscal. The situation was salvaged because of proactive measures including revised drawback rates and interest rate subvention to exporters in the wake of high appreciation of the rupee. INDONESIA Textile companies against 40% hike in cotton price Textile dumping allegations from Turkey The government of India has raised the minimum support price for cotton by up to 46%, potentially benefiting some 4.5 million farmers of New Delhi and Chandigarh. The rate for medium staple cotton at Rs 1,990 a quintal and long staple cotton at Rs 2,030 a quintal was fixed for the cotton year 2007-08. The government is planning to revise the MSP to Rs 2,500 a quintal and Rs 3,000 a quintal respectively for the cotton year 2008-09. In India, the quintal is equivalent to 100 kg and is a standard measurement of mass for agricultural products. Indonesian textile manufacturers may redirect exports from Turkey to Syria and Russia, after the Turkey accused three Indonesian firms of dumping, said the Indonesian Textile Association (API). Association “Chairman Benny Soetrisno said, Syria and Russia could suitably replace Turkey as the two countries offered potential markets just as large as Turkey and we have been thinking of two nations: Syria and Russia. These two countries have the potential to replace Turkey as new export markets.” With the introduction of Bt cotton seeds, a genetically modified variety developed by US biotechnology company Monsanto Co., India has been witnessing a bumper crop since 2004 and has become a net exporter. The dumping allegation goes back to 2007, when 22 Turkish firms petitioned seven textile makers from three countries China, India and Indonesia for allegedly dumping "yarn of man-made or synthetic or artificial staple fibers. The Indonesian companies accused of dumping are PT Polysindo Eka Perkasa, PT Indo Liberty Textiles and PT Yans Manunggal Jaya. Later on, the allegation was extended to four other firms. They are PT Kamaltek in Semarang, Central Java; PT Sunrise Bumi Textile in Bekasi, West Java and PT Elegan Textile Industry and PT Apac Inti Corpora, both located in Jakarta. In 2008-09, production is expected to be 33 million bales (one bale is equal to Rs 170 kg), according to data from the Cotton Association of India. Cotton yield has increased from 300 kg per hectare five years ago to 560kg last year. Dumping allegations, coupled with a sluggish global economy, have made Indonesian textile manufacturers less optimistic that they can meet their export target of $11 billion this year, up from $10.03 billion last year. According to International Cotton Advisory Committee, the global supply of cotton in 2008-09 will be marginally lower than the current year, moreover, it suggests the production of cotton in the US will see a drop of over 12% to 21.3 million bales (1 bale = 170 kg) in 2008-09 from 24.3 million bales in 2007-08. 22 PTJ October 2008 Indonesia offers incentives on the import of textile machinery The Finance Ministry has officially lifted the value-added tax (VAT) imposed on textile machinery imports as part of a national restructuring program for the textile industry. Finance Minister Sri Mulyani Indrawati approved lifting the 10% VAT as an incentive to the industrywide technology upgrading program. A businessman who imports and / or receives machinery subject to VAT will obtain a letter of tax exemption issued by the Head of the local tax office where he is registered. The government has recently begun providing incentives for the textile industry, whose growth has been stalled mostly due to obsolete machinery. To help change that, the government launched a revitalization program for the industry early last year in the form of soft loans and subsidies for bank lending interests. The government disbursed Rp 175 billion (US$18.77 million) to 78 textile and garment manufacturers under the first scheme and Rp 80 billion to 14 small- and medium-scale textile and garment manufacturers under the second. According to the Industry Ministry's textile industry Director Arryanto Sagala, the ministry has signed contracts this year with 113 companies worth Rp 132 billion in interest subsidies, with plans to disburse Rp 285 billion in subsidies as part of the program. Decline in textile exports Indonesia’s textile and garment may not be able to meet the target of US$11 billion as a result of the world economic slowdown that caused a drop in demand, said Chairman of the Association of Indonesian Textiles Benny Soetrisno. In the first quarter of 2008, textile and garment exports increased by 6% to US$5.2 billion. Last year they grew around 8.9% and to meet this year’s target they had to grow higher. Benny said a number of external and internal problems could threaten achievement of the target, referring to the economic slowdown in the US, which has far been the main destination of Indonesian textile exports and shortage of electricity supply in the country. They all could erode competitiveness of the national industry in the midst of tight competition with China and Vietnam. Indeed there has been an increased demand from the US following the weakening of the competitiveness of Around the World Chinese products after the floating of that country’s currency to the market that made the Chinese textiles and textile products more expensive than before. However US market demand for textiles and textile products tend to decline following a financial crisis, meanwhile other main export destination countries such as the European Union member countries tend to seek products from countries whose currencies are close to the US dollar. Extension of EU membership was actually potential for market expansion by Indonesia. Decline in domestic garment sales Domestic garment sales in Indonesia fell 27% in the first half of this year due to a decline in the people’s purchasing power and the low competitiveness of local garment producers, said Chief of the Indonesian Textile Producers Association (API) Benny Sutrisno. He said the people’s low purchasing power due to a fall in the rupiah`s exchange rate amidst the accelerating inflation was another reason for the drop in domestic garment sales. He said the Directorate General of Customs and Excise had taken a number of steps to deal with the rampant smuggling activities but to no avail, considering number of ports it must supervise. The smuggling and circulation of the illegal goods has reduced the competitive edge of local products in the domestic market. Domestic garment and textile sales in the first half of 2008 stood at US$1.2 billion. Meanwhile, domestic garment and textile sales throughout last year reached US$3.3 billion. NEPAL New duty rules by Indian customs The domestic ready made garment manufacturers may have to face new hurdles put up by Indian customs, according to which, Nepali exporters will now have to pay customs duty based on the maximum retail price (MRP) instead of the invoice rate. As per the trade agreement between India and Nepal there is 0% trade duty, even the garment sector is free from it. However, since the last two years, Indian Custom Department has started imposing custom duty on transaction value or Counter Value Duty (CVD), said Mr Uday Raj Pandey, Vice President, Garment Association of Nepal (GAN). The MRP is always higher than the invoice rate, the price at which producers deliver the products. The change in the base price has suddenly raised the volume of the duty by two to three times. On the other hand, Indian customs has also said that they would accept the laboratory test results of New Delhi-based quality certifiers only. However, earlier test certificates of Kolkata, Patna and nearby laboratories were also accepted. This new rule will only make delay in the consignment delivery time. As the demand for denim, corduroy, linen, viscose and polyester garments had increased by manifolds in Indian market, the Nepali garment industry, which was on the verge of collapse, started receiving export orders in bulk from India, helping it to revive once again. Major retailers like Big Bazar, Pantaloon, Peter England and John Players had also started importing garments from Nepal. Now the manufacturers of ready to wear garments are looking forward for some relief from the Indian customs for easing the new regulations. PTJ October 2008 23 Around the World SWAZILAND Revival of cotton and textiles industry Mtiti Fakudze, Minister of Agriculture and Cooperatives of Swaziland is now convinced that resurging of cotton growing activities would play a crucial role in eliminating poverty, unemployment and hunger in the country. While attending the re-launch of the Silkhulile Cotton ginnery in Big Bend, the Minister took the opportunity to reiterate this fact that since the textile industry was investing heavy capital in enhancing the capacities and employment opportunities, cotton sector of the country also needs to assemble its battered strength and revive the sector for the benefit of the farmers. Cotton prices this season have soared high by more than 50% which is an extra-ordinary opportunity for the farmers and industry to reap profits through commercial exchange of goods. Further, the government financing for the project of reviving cotton industry would also ensure a guarantee price of E4.50 per kilogram seed in the upcoming season. Reverting to the past, it was recalled that in 2002, deteriorating economic conditions had its impact on the cotton industry of Swaziland which as a result suffered a downfall. Cotton harvest at that time had fallen to such drastic levels that it became nearly impossible for any ginnery to sustain operations. While at that time, world price of cotton plunged due to subsidies paid to farmers in developed countries, domestic cost of inputs, fuel and interest rates saw an unbridled hike, eroding the profits from cotton growing. In 2005, the Ministry of Agriculture, the Swaziland Cotton Board and other major stakeholders joined forces and undertook a strategic planning exercise to revive the once flourishing cotton industry. The local textile industry has managed to recover over 70% of orders and now the industry is just recovering from the strike that resulted in about 16 000 workers leaving the work in order to coerce their employers to improve their salaries, amongst other demands. This mass action that lasted for over two weeks resulted in the companies losing some of their major orders from the United States of America (USA) and Southern African . Chairman of the Swaziland Textile 24 PTJ October 2008 and Exporters Association (STEA) John Sheng Neng Fan confirmed that their orders were coming back and that they had recovered over 70% of them. Most of the textile companies export their products under the African Growth Opportunity Act (AGOA) regime that facilitates better trade between the African countries and the USA. THAILAND Four Thai companies get EU Ecolabel The European Commission presented a series of proposals for Sustainable Consumption and Production (SCP) and Sustainable Industrial Policy (SIP) Action Plans. These proposals will contribute to improving the environmental performance of products and increasing the demand for more sustainable goods and production technologies, and also seek to encourage EU industry to take advantage of opportunities to innovate. About a year ago, four Thai textile companies have been awarded the EU Ecolabel. They are some of the very first textile companies in Asia to receive the award. This development has sparked interest among Thai media and industry as it shows how sustainable production is not only good for the environment but that it can also lead to market opportunities for Thai textiles in the European market. In an ever increasingly competitive market, the EU Flower is now perceived in Thailand as a symbol that can give Thai textile industry the competitive edge and added-value in the EU market. Getting the Ecolabel award was not an easy matter. In order to transform the whole life-cycle of textile production to meet the high standard of the EU Ecolabel, training and upgrading took more than a year. TURKEY Government to support textile firms relocating to developing regions The Turkish government announced a package of incentives to encourage manufacturers in the textile sector to relocate to priority regions for development. The incentives package will be made available from 2009 until 2014. The Turkish government has prepared its action plan to provide support for the textile, ready-to-wear and leather sectors and included 28 additional measures drafted to give companies in the sector greater competitiveness. The new incentives in the action plan aim at transforming Turkey's under-developed south-eastern region into a centre for the Turkish textile industry. Manufacturers with a minimum of 30 employees would benefit from 50% energy support, value added tax (VAT)exemption, customs tax exemption, interest support, discount at social security premiums, corporation tax discount, allocation of investment land, and zerointerest credit if they move from developed regions to priority regions for development, said Turkish Industry Minister Zafer Caglayan. The textile sector, which spearheaded Turkey's economy for many years, has in recent years been overtaken by automotive exports as the leading industry. Turkey’s textile sector meets 11% of the country’s gross national product and accounts for a forth of all exports. High input prices and fierce competition from inferior quality Chinese products have hit the sector hard. High commodity prices, high tax and interest rates, as well as a high social security premium burden, are cited as the main reasons for a slowing in productivity in the sector. Sector representatives estimate that close to million textile sector workers lost their jobs the last three years. USA Fleeting fashion trends dictate growth in the World apparel market According to a new report published by Global Industry Ana, modern consumers are increasingly becoming brand conscious and are opting for apparel with brand images or logos. With fashion emerging into a means of self-expression, there exists strong demand for unique apparel designs, which make a bold fashion statement. Global Industry Analysts, Inc., (GIA) is a reputed publisher of off-the-shelf market research. Founded in 1987, the company is globally recognized as one of the world's largest market research publishers Demand is especially high for multifunctional garments which help meet both fashion and performance needs. The modern customer is identified as a person who elects to experiment with Around the World diverse looks and ideas. Men in the age group of 25-35, with higher disposable income spend on expensive shirts and suits. Important factors considered while purchasing garments include price, brand, shape, colour and fabric. With casual clothing gaining in acceptance even in the corporate world, sales of jeans, shorts, sweatshirts, dungarees, bomber jackets, jodhpurs, long shorts, cardigans, flamenco skirts, baggy jeans and smocks are on the upswing. lucrative segment of the apparel industry, with children playing a critical role in the selection of clothing. Strong brand awareness among children, particularly in case of back-to-school shopping, is a major growth booster for the industry. The advent of trendier, and competitively price designer wear is also fostering sales in the kid's apparel segment. Increased indulgence in outdoor activities is additionally fostering the market for active wear, and sportswear. The 'Friday dressing' concept is driving sales in the casual wear market, particularly in the United States. This trend is contributing to the expanding sales of shirts and T-shirts in the men's apparel segment, often at the cost of business wear. In the men's apparel market, demand for comfort wear and casual wear is rising across the world. Moving away from the traditional jeans market, tailored apparel for men has found its way into the market, in the form of improved suits, shirts and ties. A recent trend witnessed in the apparel market is the rising number of companies outsourcing distribution and inventory functions to third parties, allowing them to concentrate on design and marketing. The drive to reduce production costs is additionally leading to migration of production bases to lowcost developing countries as an increasing number of apparel manufacturers and processors shift their production sites to China and other Asian countries. This trend is particularly prevalent among young male entrepreneurs, with higher levels of disposable incomes. Men's and boy's apparel segment is influenced by changing consumer attitudes and evolving lifestyles, as seen in the rising demand for specific wear for business, casual and weekend activities. Development of innovative sportswear, incorporating novel designs and fabrics, is also finding favour among male purchasers. World cotton production expected to decline in 2008-09 Rapid changes in the fashion world have a significant impact on the women's apparel market. A major growth area for the segment is emerging from 'mature' (women over 35 years) category, with manufacturers offering products for specific requirements of this lucrative segment. Additionally, the special sized garment segment is also expected to drive sales in the overall market, especially in the United States where weight gain and obesity are rampant. As the American woman becomes bigger, the women's plus-size market is forecasted to boot an upward turn. Manufacturers are also focusing on providing corporate casual apparel, owing to the expanding proportion of women in executive level positions across the world. While jeans find universal appeal irrespective of gender and age, demand for designer apparel is mostly confined to affluent consumer segments, and is susceptible to constant changes in consumer preferences and fashion trends. Children's apparel market is a World cotton mill use is expected to decline by 1% in 2008-09 to 26.2 million tonnes, due to slower global economic growth and higher prices of cotton relative to polyester. Cotton mill use is expected to decrease in Turkey, the United States, Brazil, the European Union, Mexico, Thailand, Russia, China (Taiwan), and the Republic of Korea. However, cotton mill use is expected to continue to increase, more slowly, in China (Mainland), Pakistan, Bangladesh, Indonesia and Vietnam. World cotton production is expected to decline by 6% in 2008-09, to 24.7 million tonnes, due mainly to a decline in world cotton area caused by increased competition from alternative crops. The projected decrease in world production in 2008-09 is driven by an expected fall of 1.2 million tonnes in the United States, to 3.0 million tonnes. World imports are forecast up by 3% to 8.6 million tonnes in 2008-09. Imports by China (Mainland) are expected to increase significantly. However, imports by the rest of the world are projected down for the second consecutive season. World cotton stocks are forecast to decrease by 12% to 10.7 million tonnes in 2008-09. PTJ October 2008 25