Teaching English through Popular Culture A Curriculum Unit – The Beauty Industry and Our Perceptions of Beauty Focus: Commercials and Advertisements Suggested Time Allocation: 10 -12 lessons Teaching English through Popular Culture A Curriculum Unit – The Beauty Industry and Our Perceptions of Beauty Focus: Commercials and Advertisements Suggested Time Allocation: 10-12 lessons Learning Targets and Skills - to understand a variety of written and spoken texts related to popular culture - to analyse a popular culture texts to understand the typical features, language and structures. - Texts = Magazine articles, print advertisements (magazine, newspaper, electronic, billboard (MTR, bus, tram), and TV commercials - to foster and develop media literacy skills - to respond and give expression to experiences, ideas, events, characters or issues through creative writing, performance, personal reflections and production - to understand how English works in different texts in popular culture and apply this understanding to their learning and use of the language Target Knowledge, Specific Skills and Attitudes Students should be able to: - identify the content, strategies, language, key stylistic feature in advertising - present the findings of an analysis - express ideas coherently through written and oral presentations - produce a print advertisement and a commercial Suggested Assessment for Learning Activities - Teacher/peer assessment of the students’ group performance on feedback forms - The advertisements either print or videotaped can be assessed using an assessment rubric Suggested Activities Group work – students examine advertisements/commercials to identify the content, strategies, language and stylistic features. (Using worksheets and following the Five Core Concepts of Media Literacy). Groups present their analysis. Response Journal – students write about what they see around them in Hong Kong. They can take photographs of advertisements they see on the MTR, on buses, trams, buildings and then respond to them using the five key questions of media literacy. Worksheets – students work through and complete a variety of worksheets in class integrating their reading, writing, listening and oral skills. Vocabulary work is included. Role play/ Individual Presentations – Sales Pitch to potential customers. Students are given or can choose their own product and create either a dialogue between a customer and a sales person (E.g. At the beauty counter in Sogo) or work on a 2 minute sales presentation using power point to promote and sell their product. Group work – Final Task - You work for an advertisement agency and you have been given your first project. The students work together to produce their own print advertisement and commercial. This should include a storyboard for the commercial and be filmed in under 2 minutes. The commercials can be screened to the class and evaluation forms completed. Teaching Resources - A collection of advertisements and commercials related to the beauty Industry (taken from magazines, newspapers or online websites - A power point presentation to introduce the topic and arouse interest - A magazine article taken from The Economist - A worksheet on comprehension, vocabulary and language based on the magazine article (still to be completed) - Worksheets to be completed in class through various listening, writing, responding and pair work activities - http://www.frankwbaker.com/cosmetics.htm website about Cosmetic Advertising: Deconstructing The Real Messages in the media - containing articles about cosmetics, advertising and its effects. - Handouts on Media Literacy – advertising strategies, language and features - Group presentation evaluation/feedback forms - Advertisement assessment rubric (to be discussed and created by the teacher and the students) - The following links to beauty advertisements on at www.youtube.com - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8ThI6aA-yeE (Advert for Glam Shine Lip Gloss) - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=pRx8NoN2D5s (Advert for Men’s L’Oreal Skincare) - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=iVPbH6veuos (The making of a Neutrogena Advertisement) - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rxDoCF-2U2E (Advert for Neutrogena face wash) - http://youtube.com/watch?v=iYhCn0jf46U A short film on by Dove on the evolution of beauty. (An episode or clip from a TV show for example The Apprentice, America’s Next Top Model can be shown in which the contestants have to create and produce an ad or TV commercial) Additional Teacher Resources http://www.media-awareness.ca/english/teachers/media_literacy/key_concept.cfm - Information on how to teach media literacy and explanation of the key concenpts http://www.frankwbaker.com/cosff.htm Cosmetics and Media Literacy – some facts and figures/additional reading material for students Recommended Texts(each of these includes sections on cosmetic advertising) Adcult USA James Twitchell Are They Selling Her Lips? Advertising & Identity Carol Moog Can't Buy My Love: How Advertising Changes the Way We Think and Feel Jean Kilbourne Marketing Madness, A Survival Guide for A Consumer Society Michael F. Jacobson, Laurie Ann Mazur Provocateur, Images of Women & Minorities in Advertising Anthony J. Cortese Recommended Videos Killing Us Softly 3, Jean Kilbourne, produced by Media Ed Foundation Learning English through Popular Culture Theme: The Beauty Industry and our Perceptions of Beauty Magazine Article Pots of promise - An industry driven by sexual instinct will always thrive Source The Economist print edition May 22nd 2003 (http://www.economist.com/printedition/displayStory.cfm?Story_ID=1795852) MEDIEVAL noblewomen swallowed arsenic and dabbed on bats' blood to improve their complexions; 18th-century Americans prized the warm urine of young boys to erase their freckles; Victorian ladies removed their ribs to give themselves a wasp waist. The desire to be beautiful is as old as civilisation, as is the pain that it can cause. In his autobiography, Charles Darwin noted a “universal passion for adornment”, often involving “wonderfully great” suffering. The pain has not stopped the passion from creating a $160 billion-a-year global industry, encompassing make-up, skin and hair care, fragrances, cosmetic surgery, health clubs and diet pills. Americans spend more each year on beauty than they do on education. Such spending is not mere vanity. Being pretty—or just not ugly—confers enormous genetic and social advantages. Attractive people (both men and women) are judged to be more intelligent and better in bed; they earn more, and they are more likely to marry. Beauty is something that we recognise instinctively. A baby of three months will smile longer at a face judged by adults to be “attractive”. Such beauty signals health and fertility. Long lustrous hair has always been a sign of good health; mascara makes eyes look bigger and younger; blusher and red lipstick mimic signs of sexual arousal. Whatever the culture, relatively light and flawless skin is seen as a testament to both youth and health: partly because skin permanently darkens after pregnancy; partly because light skin makes it harder to hide illness. This has spawned a huge range of creams to treat skin in various ways. Then again, a curvy body, with big breasts and a waist-to-hip ratio of less than 0.8—Barbie's is 0.54—shows an ideal stage of readiness for conception. Plastic surgery to pad breasts or lift buttocks serves to make a woman look as though she was in her late teens or early 20s: the perfect mate. “Mimicry is the goal of the beauty industry,” says Ms Etcoff. Analysts at Goldman Sachs estimate that the global beauty industry—consisting of skin care worth $24 billion; make-up, $18 billion; $38 billion of hair-care products; and $15 billion of perfumes—is growing at up to 7% a year, more than twice the rate of the developed world's GDP. The sector's market leader, L'Oréal, has had compound annual profits growth of 14% for 13 years. Sales of Beiersdorf's Nivea have grown at 14% a year over the same period. This growth is being driven by richer, ageing baby-boomers and increased discretionary income in the West, and by the growing middle classes in developing countries. China, Russia and South Korea are turning into huge markets. In India, sales of anti-ageing creams are growing by 40% a year, while Brazil has more “Avon Ladies” (900,000) than it has men and women in its army and navy. Although the industry's customers are predominantly women, it is increasingly marketing itself to men too. Two potentially lucrative markets are being all but ignored by the traditional beauty companies. The first is cosmetic surgery, already a $20 billion business, which has been growing and innovating by leaps and bounds. The number of cosmetic procedures have increased in America by over 220% since 1997. Old favourites, such as liposuction, breast implants and nose jobs, are being overtaken by botox injections to freeze the facial muscles that cause wrinkles. With the number of these up by more than 2,400% since 1997, botox injections have become the most common procedure of all. The newest lines are bottom implants, fat inserts to plump up ageing hands, and fillers like Restylane and Perlane for facial wrinkles. Cosmetic dentistry is also a booming business. Jeff Golub, Manhattan dentist to stars like Kim Catrall of “Sex and the City”, dubs himself a “smile designer”. “We are able to create all sorts of illusions,” he says. “The smile has become a fashion statement.” Tooth whitening is the botox of the cosmetic dentistry business. What used to be the preserve of actresses and celebrities has become safer and more affordable. Alan Matarasso, one of America's leading plastic surgeons, says: “Ten years ago you could reconstruct a woman's breasts for $12,000—now it can be done for $600.” Drooping prices have helped cosmetic surgery to move into the mainstream. More than 70% of those who come under the knife now earn less than $50,000 a year. The second big new market is in “well-being”—whole treatment systems that cover beauty, exercise and diet, including visits to spas, salons and clubs, and hark back to the early days of Mesdames Arden and Rubinstein. People are increasingly seeking natural cures rather than turning to chemicals, and an emphasis on being fit—not just thin—is growing in popularity. The trend is being led by a list of celebrities. Avon's boss, Andrea Jung, says modern beauty has been “redefined as health, self esteem and empowerment.” Beauty firms are falling over themselves to sell products with new-age promise—Arden has a range of products called “Happy”, Avon sells diet bars, and L'Oréal owns a few spas. However, it has been left largely to entrepreneurs like American cosmetic surgeon Stephen Greenberg to offer real innovations. His “extreme make-overs” combine cosmetic surgery, a personal trainer for your body, and an image consultant for your face and hair. The traditional beauty companies have yet to grasp the opportunities in these rapidly growing and fragmented markets. The fact is that neither moral censure nor fears about safety will stop people from wanting to look better. The desire is too entrenched. An 18th-century British law proposing to allow husbands to annul marriages to wives who had trapped them with “scents, paints, artificial teeth, false hair and iron stays”, had no effect on women, who continued to clamour for the latest French skin creams. During the second world war, the American government had to reverse a decision to remove lipstick from its list of essential commodities in order to prevent a rebellion by female war workers. The beauty business—the selling of “hope in a jar”, as Charles Revson, the founder of Revlon, once called it—is as permanent as its effects are ephemeral. Learning English through Popular Culture Theme: The Beauty Industry and our Perceptions of Beauty Worksheet 1 Your thoughts! How would you define beauty? Write down the characteristics that you believe define a beautiful woman and a handsome man. A beautiful woman? A handsome man? Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 2 Nowadays we are living in a world, which emphasizes beauty and having the perfect appearance, regardless of the cost. This industry is worth billions of dollars and is growing every year, especially in China. Do you use any beauty products? Why do you use them? The Products I use Why I use them? The products __________uses Why she uses them? Now the teacher will show you some of the products he uses. Can you identify the type of product and write down its name! Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 3 The beauty Industry? 1. How would you define the beauty industry? Write a sentence to explain what this is. _______________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 4 Class discussion/Individual response in Response Journal What do you know about cosmetic advertising? Here are some issues/questions for you to consider/research: 1. Where might you find advertisements for beauty products and cosmetics? __________________________________________________________________________ 2. How has the marketing of cosmetics changed over time? __________________________________________________________________________ 3. Is there a relationship between cosmetic advertisers and the content of the magazines that carry the ads? _________________________________________________________________________ 4. Are all photographs in cosmetic ads subject to "digital manipulation" (i.e. airbrushing)? _________________________________________________________________________ 5. Why don't these ads tell the consumer the ingredients and the cost? _________________________________________________________________________ 6. Why are celebrities used in cosmetic ads? Do students see these celebrities as role models? Why or why not? _________________________________________________________________________ 7. Why do all the models for these ads look the same? Who is not shown? Why? _________________________________________________________________________ 8. Who benefits from cosmetic advertising? _________________________________________________________________________ 9. If you could change cosmetic ads, how might you change them? Who could you write to, to suggest these changes? __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 5 The beauty industry is a $160 billion-a-year global industry. Activity Work with a partner to come up with as many examples of the above products that you can think of! Hair Care Products Skincare Products Cosmetic Surgery Diet/Slimming Products Cosmetics/Makeup Fragrances Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 5 – Suggested Answers Hair Care Products Shampoo, hair gel, mousse, wax, conditioner, Skincare Products Eye cream, moisturizer, wrinkle cream, face wash, lotion Cosmetic Surgery Breast implants, liposuction, double eyelid surgery, facelift, botox Diet/Slimming Products Herbal teas, diet pills, slimming drinks, low-calorie drinks Cosmetics/Make- Eye shadow, blusher, lipstick, whitening products, mascara, lip gloss up Fragrances Any brand names: Calvin Klein Eternity, Hugo Boos, Chanel No.5 Hair care products Skin care products Cosmetic surgery The beauty industry is a $160 billion-a-year global industry. Dieting/Slimming Fragrances Cosmetics/Make-up Beauty Centres Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 6 Analysing Advertisements The Five Core Concepts of Media Literacy In order to analyse and further question advertising, it is important to consider the following 5 Core Concepts of media literacy. 1. Authorship All media messages are ‘constructed’. 2. Format Media messages are constructed using a creative language with its own rules. 3. Audience Different people experience the same message differently 4. Content Media have embedded values and points of view 5. Purpose Most media messages are organized to gain profit and/or power Look at the following advertisement on your own and try to identify the following. Then compare your answers with a partner. 1. Authorship? ________________________ 2. Format? ________________________ 3. Audience? ________________________ 4. Content? ________________________ 5. Purpose? ________________________ http://www.frankwbaker.com/cosmetics.htm (Checkout this website about Cosmetic Advertising: Deconstructing The Real Messages in the media) Learning English through Popular Culture Worksheet 7 Further Analysis of print/film advertisements Group Discussion and Presentation Use the Five Key Questions of Media Literacy below to discuss and analyse a print or film advertisement of your own choice. You will each present your analysis using one fothe questions below to the class. 1. Who created this message? 2. What creative techniques are used to attract my attention? 3. How might different people understand this message differently from me? 4. What values, lifestyles and points of view are represented in, or omitted from this message? 5. Why is this message being sent? Brief description of the advertisement 1 2 3 4 5 Assessment Rubric Assignment: Create a print or video advertisement Beginner: 1 point Novice: 2 Points Intermediate: 3 points Expert: 4 points Self Evaluat ion Topic/Content Technical Requirements (To be filled in by teacher) Language Creativity Cooperative Group Work Oral Presentation Skills/Effectiven ess Scale: 18 - 20= Expert 15 - 17= Intermediate 10 14=Novice 6 - 9=Beginner Total Points A suggested rubric which can be discussed and decided by the students and the teacher Teacher Evaluation Collaborative Work Skills: Assessing Group Work CATEGORY 4 3 2 1 Quality of Work Provides work of the Provides high quality Provides work that highest quality. work. needs to be checked/redone to ensure quality. Provides incomplete or sloppy work Focus on the task Consistently stays focused on the task and what needs to be done. Very selfdirected. Focuses on the task and what needs to be done most of the time. Focuses on the task and what needs to be done some of the time. All group members are not focused and need the teacher's help to help them focus on their task. Working with Others All members are able to listen, share with, and support the efforts of others. Most members are able to listen, share with, and support the efforts of others. A few members are able to listen, share with, and support the efforts of others. None of the members want to listen, share with or support the effort of others. Attitude All members have a positive attitude about the task(s). Most members have A few members have None of the a positive attitude a positive attitude members has a about the task(s). about the task(s). positive attitude about the task(s). Learning English through Popular Culture Other suggested Activities - Cosmetics & Media Literacy Magazines: Content Analysis Teachers: Have your students conduct a "content analysis" of cosmetic advertisements in selected magazines targeting women. To do this, create a chart similar to the one below, listing the magazines at the top, and the names of some common cosmetic manufacturers down the side. Students should count the number of ads found in each magazine and put in a number in the column under that magazine. Content Analysis- # of cosmetic full page Advertisements from selected women's magazines, Sept. 2004 issues Essence Marie Claire O(prah) Self Seventeen Latina Maybelline 1 Revlon Cover Girl 1 L'Oreal Almay Estee Lauder Lancome Paris 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 Chanel 1 Max Factor 1 1 Nivea 1 Neutrogena 1 1 3 1 Clinique 1 2 2 2 Aveeno 2 1 2 1 1 1 Sephora 1 1 Avon 1 1 Black Opal 1 Black Radiance 1 Clarins 1 Prestige 1 1 1 Physician Formula 1 Shisedo 1 1 1 1 1 1 Wet & Wild 1 NYC 1 TOTALS 12 14 18 9 Learning English through Popular Culture A class debate – Should cosmetics be tested on animals? http://www.frankwbaker.com/cosmetic_dangers.htm July 7, 2005 11 8 Should You Worry About the Chemicals in Your Makeup? By LAUREL NAVERSEN GERAGHTY (NY Times) NOT that you would notice from the color, thickness or shine, but nail polish is not what it used to be. Last year many nail polishes contained a little-known chemical that made the veneer more flexible and resistant to chipping. This year some of the biggest brands, including Revlon, Estée Lauder and L'Oréal, have taken that chemical out and replaced it with another ingredient meant to do the same thing. The original ingredient is one of three related chemicals that have become the focus of a growing debate over cosmetic safety. They are called phthalates (pronounced THA-lates), and they are also used in fragrances, lotions, shampoos and hair spray. Cosmetics makers have removed the chemicals from some of these products, but by no means all of them. Virtually all fragrances contain phthalates. Some research suggests that high levels of exposure to certain phthalates might cause cancer or reproductive system abnormalities in laboratory rats and mice. One small study published in May suggested that infant boys exposed to higher phthalate levels in the womb were more likely to exhibit what may be anomalies in the placement of their penises. And last year the European Union banned the use of two key phthalates in beauty products. By removing the phthalates, the nail polish makers with worldwide markets meant only to comply with that new law, not to concede that the chemicals might be dangerous. On the contrary, their scientists contend that phthalates in beauty products pose no health risk to humans. And many other scientists agree. "There are real uncertainties about animal studies," said Dr. Michael Thun, the head of epidemiological research at the American Cancer Society. "One, we are dealing with a different species. Two, you're extrapolating from a high dose down to low doses." Many, if not most, makeup users have still never heard of phthalates. But as the debate over their safety heats up, the strange word may grow more familiar. And consumers may increasingly wonder if their nail polishes, lipsticks, perfumes, lotions and shampoos are safe. "You start to hear words like birth defects," said Linda Wells, the editor of Allure. "It's one of those things that prey on the fears that everybody has." The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a coalition of environmental and consumer groups, is making phthalates a centerpiece of its campaign against dozens of synthetic chemicals used in cosmetics. In California it persuaded legislators to propose a law to ban the use of phthalates in beauty products, but the bill was voted down in May. Similar legislation is pending in New York. The coalition is pushing to alert makeup users as well. "There will be an increasing number of advertisements that are even more provocative to raise consumer awareness," said Janet Nudelman, its coordinator. More provocative, that is, than the one that ran in USA Today last fall and on billboards during the Cannes Film Festival in May. It pictured a little towheaded girl playing with lipstick, with the headline, "Putting on makeup shouldn't be like playing with matches." Federal agencies have looked at phthalates in cosmetics and so far have found little cause for concern. In 2000, for instance, the National Toxicology Program, a division of the Health and Human Services Department, found that the risk of phthalate exposure from nail polish and other cosmetics is for most people minimal to negligible. The Food and Drug Administration has found no risk from using makeup containing phthalates, a spokeswoman said. Not surprisingly, the cosmetics industry also finds little to worry about. In 2003 the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, a research group financed by the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, reviewed the research on three phthalates used in cosmetics -DEP (diethyl phthalate), DMP (dimethyl phthalate) and DBP (dibutyl phthalate) - and concluded that no evidence suggests they are harmful to humans. "I can assure the American public that those chemicals are safe," said Dr. Wilma F. Bergfeld, the chairwoman of the review panel and head of clinical research in dermatology at the Cleveland Clinic. They are also ubiquitous. When scientists from the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition of the F.D.A. analyzed the chemical makeup of 48 consumer cosmetics - including hair care products, deodorants, lotions, creams, nail polishes, fragrances and body washes - they found at least one phthalate in most of them. Phthalates are often used to make scents and colors last longer. The chemicals are also found in some insect repellents, detergents, vinyl products like raincoats and shower curtains, medical equipment and food packaging. (The chemicals help make soft plastics supple.) People easily absorb the chemicals through the skin or the nail bed or ingest them in food or breathe them in the air. A 2000 study by the Centers for Disease Control found that more than 75 percent of Americans tested had traces of phthalates in their urine. What worries some are studies showing that certain phthalates in high doses can be harmful to rodents. The research has shown that a metabolic byproduct of DBP can be toxic to their liver or kidneys and can cause a reduction in fertility or genital malformation in offspring born to mothers exposed to it. And at high doses, DEHP (di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate), which is used in fragrances, has been found to cause liver toxicity and tumors in rodents. Whether the same thing could happen in humans is not known, however, because only a few human studies have been done. A small study of men conducted at the Harvard School of Public Health and published in 2002 and 2003 found that metabolic byproducts of several phthalates were associated with lower than normal sperm concentration and motility. And in May researchers at the University of Rochester published the results of a study of 85 mothers and their baby sons, reporting that the boys who were exposed to higher levels of certain phthalates in the womb were more likely to have a shorter anogenital distance (the space between penis and anus). But one statistician, Rebecca Goldin, an assistant professor of mathematical sciences at George Mason University and the director of research at its Statistical Assessment Service, has found flaws in the Rochester study, which she says render their results insignificant. "They did not make the standard statistical adjustments for combining their data," Dr. Goldin said. Given that problem and the small total of data, the research on humans "is just not really enough to form any firm conclusions," said Antonia Calaphat, the chief of the personal care products laboratory at the National Center for Environmental Health, a branch of the Centers for Disease Control. The Food and Drug Administration continues to monitor phthalate research. "The next step for the F.D.A. is to get an exposure estimate and risk assessment," its spokeswoman said. "If we determine that they are a health hazard, we will take steps to protect the welfare of the American public." Meanwhile Dr. Thun recommends an open mind. While it would be inappropriate for regulatory agencies to brush aside the potential danger of phthalates based on what is known, he said, the research gives consumers no cause to panic. "There is currently little or no evidence that cosmetics cause serious health problems," he said. "There's always one side that claims that there are sort of serious health effects from cosmetics that are not being adequately regulated and on the other side, claims that everything's hunky-dory. No doubt the truth lies somewhere between the two." Learning English through Popular Culture Additional Material – Celebrities and Advertising Celebrity endorsement plays an important role in luring young consumers to purchase cosmetics and toiletries products. Lancaster’s licensing agreement with Jennifer Lopez for a line of products under the J.Lo brand name is just one example. Moreover manufacturers play on teens’ image-conscious attitude and their desire to imitate pop idols by introducing affordable versions of products used by stars. Extended Writing/ Response Journal Task Students can research and write about celebrities and the products they endorse/advertise. Students could also focus on Asia and look at Asian celebrities and the products they endorse Some examples are: Gwyneth Paltrow – the new face of Estee Lauder Ashley Judd - the face of American Beauty cosmetics Britney Spears-Elizabeth Arden Gong Li – L’Oreal Product Celebrity Student/teacher resource http://www.frankwbaker.com/celebrityads.htm (Recent news stories about celebrity advertising) A further Task Students can be asked to think about beauty and advertising in terms of the difference between different countries and cultures and asked to write and research on this topic. They can be given the following questions as guidelines: Do western countries and Japan share the same views of beauty? What cultural differences can you think of? Are there any beauty products or concepts that are unique to Europe or Asia? What beauty products/trends are popular in China nowadays?