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Fall 2015, Issue 20
In this issue we hit all corners of the globe, traveling to Bolivia, where Martin Thibault will teach you
about the little-known art of brewing chicha, before chatting with Gabe Fletcher of Anchorage Brewing,
who brews some of the best Bretts in the West. Owen Ogletree breaks down Belgian Golden Strong Ales
and Fruit Beers in Style Studies, and from there we march up to the U.K. for some trans-continental
brewing collaborations.
......
TABLE OF CONTENTS From the Editors
Contributors
Industry News
Correspondence FIRST RUNNINGS
Brewing With: Gabe Fletcher
The funk-centric Anchorage Brewing Company founder began with nothing but a dream, literally. Abita calls on the natural
resources of Louisiana to produce beers as distinctive as the Creole and Cajun cultures.
Innovators Series: Jeremy Cowan
The mind behind Shmaltz Brewing Co. started with an idea and made it “Shtick.”
America In Barrels: The Jameson Drinking Buddies Program
See what happens when American brewers are whisked away to Ireland.
FEATURES
Style Studies
Owen Ogletree researches the devil out of Belgian Golden Strong Ale, and addresses Fruit Beer sweetly.
Connoisseur’s Corner
Homebrewed Life Lessons - by Marty Jones
Bolivia’s Tart Beer
Martin Thibault uncorks a South American brewing tradition similar to Belgium’s lambics.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
FOOD & TRAVEL
Brewed In The Bayou, For You
Take a tour of Bayou Teche, the world’s most Cajun brewery. Chili, Beer, and Peppers
Betsy Burts puts them all together for recipes that are far from chilly.
Siberian Soul Beer from Gelios Brewery
Ice cold delights straight from Russia’s largest refrigerator.
Festivals & Events
Fall beer festivals abound across the nation.
REVIEWS
Beer Review
Tasty treats from 3 Floyds, Firestone Walker, Ommegang and more!
Brewer Q & A
Brewers share secrets of their most highly rated beers.
Fall Seasonals
As the leaves turn color, so do the beers.
Book Review: Mountain Brew
Run to the Hills.
Product Review: DrinkTanks Classic Growler
DrinkTanks Growler/Minikeg combo satiates your thirst. The European Report
European News
Brewdog rolls over to America, Gambrinus checks Czech beer knowledge, and Queen sings a “Brew-hemian Rhapsody”.
Iron Maiden’s Golden Ale
The band’s lead singer and Robinsons Brewery form a “bitter alliance.” Featured European Beers
Selections from famed breweries in England.
THE BEER CONNOISSEUR® Issue 20, Fall 2015 (ISSN 2151-4356) is published bi-monthly for $15.00 per year by On Tap Publishing, LLC,
P.O. Box 420903, Atlanta, Ga. 30342. Permissions: You may not reproduce any part of The Beer Connoisseur® without first obtaining written consent from
On Tap Publishing, LLC and its authorized manager(s).
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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From the Editors
As the craft beer world gets ever closer to 2016, it continues
to undergo significant transformations. Market share continues to rise and frequent consolidation among the BA’s Top
50 is a common theme (to the chagrin of many fans). With
all the talk of bubbles and mergers, we here at The Beer
Connoisseur are also heading in a transformative and exciting new direction.
Succumbing to the digital era, we have chosen to discontinue the print magazine in favor of our new Premium Web
Magazine. We know, we know! We loved the print edition
more than anyone, but industry and consumer demands
dictated this new path forward.
We are very excited to present the first Premium Web
Magazine with the Fall 2015, Issue 20!
For starters, we have now increased the magazine’s frequency from quarterly (4 times per year) to bi-monthly (6
times per year). Expect all of the same expertly-written features, stories, interviews and news with the terrific supporting imagery that you’ve come to expect and love from the
print edition. We have greatly expanded our single-blind
beer review with our new panel of BJCP-certified judges.
We have also added a Brewer Q & A section for the issue’s
top-rated beers, where brewers and brewmasters answer
questions about some of their brewery’s most sought after
brews. We can also now employ multimedia to add dimension and vibrancy to our already stellar feature stories.
In today’s digital world, we have found that busy beer lovers want quick access to in-depth content that can be easily absorbed on a phone, tablet or computer. That is why
we have chosen a “Web Magazine” format over a “Digital
Flip-Style Magazine.” Our Premium Web Magazine format
accomplishes this goal, as both text and photos quickly
load and easily display on all of your devices.
“Digital Flip-Style” and PDF magazines are offered through
a variety of platforms, but they are often difficult to navigate and slow to load. In our view, these styles of digital
magazines are usually an attempt to transfer heavily
designed print layouts into a digital form. Such layouts are
often cumbersome for many readers to absorb on their
digital devices.
In mid-October, all of our customers’ print subscriptions
will be converted to a full-term membership to The Beer
Connoisseur based on your original print subscription
length. Membership includes: 6 Premium Web Magazine issues per year, Beer School, the BC Network and our expert
beer reviews. Until then, enjoy our Fall Issue and our previous Summer 2015, Issue 19 with no login required at BeerConnoisseur.com.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
*******
In this issue we hit all corners of the globe, traveling to
Bolivia, where Martin Thibault will teach you about the
little-known art of brewing chicha, before chatting with
Gabe Fletcher of Anchorage Brewing, who brews some of
the best Bretts in the West. Owen Ogletree breaks down
Belgian Golden Strong Ales and Fruit Beers in Style Studies,
and from there we march up to the U.K. for some transcontinental brewing collaborations.
Also, as some of our regular website visitors may have
noticed, the Beer Review section of our website has
been ramped up considerably. We have a cadre of BJCPcertified judges posting reviews of some of the hottest
brews around. In this issue, Three Floyd’s “gushing undead
Pale Ale” Zombie Dust and Wicked Weed’s most recent
Angel, White Angel, are some of our highest scoring. We
also invite you to join in with your own reviews while
reading along with the experts. If you see a beer you would
like to review, click the image of it, then scroll down to the
“Review This Beer” button. We thank you for your continued support, and hope you
enjoy this 20th edition of The Beer Connoisseur!
Cheers!
Jim & Chris
Contributors
Betsy Burts
Betsy is a graphic designer and clay
artist from the Atlanta area. She is
a passionate home cook, lover of good
food and drink, and a staunch supporter of organic, sustainable, local
and non-GMO foods. She maintains
an award-winning food and lifestyle blog,bitsandbreadcrumbs.com,
and also owns her own design company.Graphiti Design Inc.. Check out
her handmade clay art here.
Martin Thibault
A regular contributor, Martin won first
place in the feature category from the
North American Guild of Beer Writers
for his story in The Beer Connoisseur,
Issue 11 on “The Secret Farmhouse
Brewers of Lithuania.” His most recent
co-authored book is Les Saveurs Gastronomiques de la Biere.
Marty Jones
An acclaimed beer journalist, publicist
and “Brewbadour”, Marty Jones is one
of Colorado’s most ardent promoters of
craft beer and its culture. The Complete
Joy of Homebrewing, an English degree
and a few basic guitar chords changed
his life for the better. Learn about his
brewery-helping efforts at www.martyjones.com and hear his beer-blessed
music at www.martyjones.net.
Michael
Agnew
Michael has
a passion for
beer. He is
Minnesota’s
first Certified Cicerone (think
sommelier
for beer) with the Cicerone Certification Program®, and a National Beer
Judge with the Beer Judge Certification Program. In addition, Michael is
himself an award-winning brewer. He
writes a monthly column on beer for
the Minneapolis Star Tribune. With a
successful career as an event planner,
actor, director, producer, and master
of ceremonies, as well as ten years
in the food service industry, Michael
has done it all. See more of his work
at aperfectpint.net.
Nora McGunnigle
Nora is a freelance food and beer
writer who lives in New Orleans.
Her work can be found in Louisiana Kitchen and Culture, among
other magazines, and she is a regular
contributor to Southern Brew News,
Alcohol Professor, Eater NOLA, the
Gambit and NOLAbeerblog.com. Follow her on Twitter @noradeirdre.
Owen Ogletree
The founder of the popular Classic City
Brew Fest held in Athens, Georgia each
spring, Owen runs Brewtopia.info and
writes for the bi-monthly Southern
Brew News. Full-time in beer, Owen
has also served as a beer judge at the
Great American Beer Festival and the
Great British Beer Festival.
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Industry News
Kim Jordan Steps Down as
New Belgium CEO
A quarter-century after co-founding New Belgium, Kim
Jordan is stepping down from her position as CEO.
Jordan will retain a role in the employee-owned company as executive chair of New Belgium’s Board of Direc-
guidance as Executive Chair and the strength of our management team, I feel very confident in our ability to drive
the business forward while honoring all the fundamental
elements that have made New Belgium so successful.”
Since New Belgium’s conception, it has grown to be
the fourth-largest brewery in the U.S. according to the
Brewer’s Association, and produces almost a million barrels of beer a year.
“With Christine’s years of experience as CFO, COO and
President, she is abundantly qualified to step into this
position,” said Jordan. “I have complete faith in her
ability. We’re excited for this next chapter in our collective history.” What’s the Deal With Lagunitas?
Adding to a rapidly growing list of craft mergers and acquisitions that includes Founders and Firestone Walker,
tors, allowing her to focus on “long-term strategy and
vision”, including the New Belgium Family Foundation,
which she co-founded in 2012.
“I have been doing this for 25 years,” Jordan said. “This
kind of transition is inevitable and we think it is better to
plan for it, rather than wait until people are absolutely
burnt out.”
Taking the place of CEO will be Christine Perich, a 15year veteran of New Belgium who has served as CFO,
COO and President. Perich will focus on “short-term
strategy, leading the executive team, industry leadership
and running day-to-day operations,” according to Jordan.
“After spending the past 15 years as a part of the New
Belgium team, I am incredibly excited for this opportunity,” Perich said in a statement. “With Kim’s continued
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Lagunitas has announced a partnership with Heineken. The Amsterdam-based company will purchase a 50
percent stake in Lagunitas, the sixth-largest craft brewery
in America according to the BA.
Magee, often one of the most outspoken critics against
big beer buyouts, has stated that he will remain at the
helm of Lagunitas, and the brewery will continue to
be run independently, retaining its business ethos and
“soul”.
The deal will allow Lagunitas to utilize Heineken’s
multi-national distribution network, which covers just
about every corner of the globe. To Magee, it’s a big
step for craft.
“This venture will create a way for Lagunitas to help
Heineken’s global distribution network participate in the
growing craft beer category in places from Tierra Del
Fuego and Mongolia to the far-flung Isles of Langerhans,”
Magee said. “Lagunitas will share in the best quality processes in the world and enjoy an open door to planetary
opportunities that took lifetimes to build.”
Though numbers were not explicitly stated, estimates
have placed a valuation of around $1 billion for the
deal, which is expected to take place in the fourth quarter of 2015.
Not bad for a company that began brewing on a single
stovetop.
Greg Koch’s Stone Rolls Onward
In a strikingly similar story in a month full of big craft
shakeups, Stone co-founder and CEO Greg Koch is relinquishing the title of CEO and moving into an Executive
Chair position.
Just like New Belgium’s Kim Jordan, Koch will move
from focusing on day-to-day activities to a long-term, big
picture role. “It’s just the nature of the development curve of Stone
Brewing,” said Koch. “I can do a pretty good job… but am
I doing the best possible job in the role of CEO that can
ever be done? I think we owe it to ourselves to look for a
really incredible, strong addition to our team.”
No timeline has been set for the change, though it will
likely coincide with the opening of Stone’s $25 million
brewery in Germany, a move aimed to bring American
craft to the rest of the world. Despite the global focus, Koch seems as relaxed as ever. “My tomorrow is going to look functionally the same as
my yesterday,” he says. “I think this is a long-winded way
of saying I may finally be able to take a Tuesday afternoon off.”
Oskar Blues Showcases Canny
Growth
Oskar Blues Brewery is having a banner year. The brewery released a report outlining its swift growth
and impressive sales numbers for 2015. The Colorado
and North Carolina-based brewery is experiencing impressive year-to-date growth of 28%.
Sales of the brewery’s flagship beer, Dale’s Pale
Ale have increased by 43% for six-packs of canned craft
beer, and Pinner Throwback IPA has
overtaken
the brewery’s
Pilsner
offering, Mama’s
Little Yella Pils,
as the brewery’s
second-biggest
seller in 2015.
The brewery
also recently
announced
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the release of a new 6.43% ABV IPA and expanded
its distribution network to include its 43rd and 44th
states: Arkansas and West Virginia.
Arizona Breweries
Create Major Revenue
In a recent report by the National Beer Wholesalers Associaton, Arizona’s breweries contributed a whopping $4.3
billion to Arizona’s economy in 2014.
Arizona’s entire economy creates roughly $279 billion according to the U.S. Bureau of Economic Analysis,
which means that Arizona’s beer industy is responisible
for about 1.5 percent of Arizona’s total GDP.
In addition, breweries such as SanTan, Arizona Wilderness, Sonoran and Desert Eagle created over 38,000 jobs
in 2014.
Even though it’s a dry heat, Arizonans must still need
good craft beer to keep them cool.
Dogfish Head Gets Approval
for Brewery Renovation
After 2 hours of debate, state officials voted unanimously to allow Delaware’s Dogfish Head Craft Brewery to
expand its Rehoboth brewery by 1,500 square feet.
The 13th-largest craft brewery in ths U.S. had to answer numerous questions about its distillery, brewpub
and restaurant and how the multimillion dollar expansion
would affect the surrounding areas.
This will be the first renovation and expansion of the
brewery’s facilities in Dogfish Head’s 20-year history.
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Correspondence
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Brewing With: Gabe Fletcher
By Phil Farrell
Our writer caught up with Gabe Fletcher, a longtime
participant in the Alaskan brewing scene, shortly after the
official opening of his beautiful new brewery – a celebration
of reclaimed wood where visitors can literally get a handson experience in the tasting room. It’s more like a “tasting
area” that flows into the fermentation room, which opens
into the brewing equipment area, bottling line and very
soon into a beer garden.
Fletcher’s own path is similar to many craft brewers who
have worked every job and held every title. What set him
apart are his skills as a wood, metal and concrete artist; he
has also painted some of his own labels. Fletcher’s unique
barley creations certainly qualify as works of art.
BC: How did the official opening go this
spring?
Fletcher: It was amazing. I had no idea how many people
would show up. I was thinking we would have a few people
initially, then a few rushes. But there were five or six hundred people that showed up. From the time we opened the
door until the time we closed there was a line.
BC: That’s certainly a compliment to your
beers. When did you first start brewing?
Fletcher: I started brewing at Midnight Sun when I was 21
Anchorage Brewing Co. Founder Gabe Fletcher (Photo Courtesy of Anchorage Brewing)
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Stainless Steel Fermenters at Anchorage Brewing Co. (Photo Courtesy of Anchorage Brewing)
years old in 1998, and I didn’t start as a homebrewer. I was
interested in the process and I was working two jobs: one at
Alaska Airlines and one at this little shop for making your
own wine. One of the girls working there got a job at Midnight Sun as a brewer and she told me to give them a call. I
went in for an interview, and I was bottling that same day. A
year and a half later, I was head brewer.
BC: Is there a first beer you brewed that you
think of as your very first unique creation, a
Gabe beer?
Fletcher: The first commercial beer I made was called Old
Snagglepuss. It was an Old Ale aged in red wine casks and
dry hopped with East Kent Goldings. It turned out really
well. I always loved that beer. I had been at Midnight Sun
for six or seven months at that point and back then one of
my favorite beer styles was Old Peculiar. I was so inspired
by it that I did something that was my version of that beer. BC: When did you develop your love of barrels and wood to complement the so-called
traditional styles?
Fletcher: I really got into it when I started making Brett
beers. I think that was a turning point for me, and that’s
where I really fell in love with it. I especially liked doing
part of the fermentation in barrels. That was different than
just getting flavor from a barrel. BC: When did you first discover you liked
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Throngs of people at the official opening of Anchorage Brewing’s new brewery and tasting room.
wild, funky, sour beer?
Fletcher: The person who introduced me to it was Billy Opinsky, owner of Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse in Anchorage. All the years before anyone had even discovered gueuze and all these beers, he was cellaring the stuff – Cantillons and
Hanssens and all that. I remember going to his house one night and he started popping open bottles of gueuze and it really
opened my eyes to the range of flavors. I didn’t understand it, and I still don’t quite understand it but it was good!
BC: Was it your experiences with wood barrels that evolved into a love of what Brettanomyces brings to a finished beer? Or is it the other way around – did you love the beers first
and then decide to create them in your own brewery once you became experienced with
barrels?
Fletcher: Yes and no. There were definitely beers I wanted to create. I remember Pride from the Seven Deadly Sins series,
which wasn’t my first Brett beer, but it was definitely one where I felt that I had really nailed it. I sort of figured things out as
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A showcase of what’s on tap at Anchorage Brewing’s new tasting room.
I went along and achieved the flavors I wanted. I don’t think I had the exact beer in mind as much as I wanted to see how
far I could go with the barrel-aging process.
One of the beers that changed what I thought about barrel-aging and new styles was by Jolly Pumpkin. I remember drinking
Oro de Calabaza for the first time; it’s still one of my favorite beers. We now actually blend it into one of the beers we make
here. The flavors Ron Jeffries comes up with for the Jolly Pumpkin beers are unbelievable. That turned the switch in my
head to wanting to open my own brewery and do all these great beers.
BC: The original Anchorage Brewing Company was unique in my experience. It was a
brewery built inside of an already existing brewpub.
Fletcher: Anchorage Brewing literally came to me in a dream. I woke up, grabbed a sheet of paper and started writing out a business plan. I said: ‘Wow, this could actually work.’ I drew the plans for this new building five years ago.
I had everything written out, and then Greg Mills from the Snow Goose brewpub said ‘Why don’t you brew here?’
The idea made sense once the wheels started turning: He had all this extra room over there, and it would be a great
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starting point because I wouldn’t have to come up with all this extra capital.
BC: Do the large oak foudres you have add an additional layer of character or do they fundamentally change the beer in your opinion?
Fletcher: It’s a pretty dramatic difference. The beers seem to come out a bit softer. There’s a better ester profile. There are
a lot more variables and it’s more dangerous. It’s easy to ferment in wood one time and have it become pretty predictable.
But wood continues to evolve over time, and you have to be on top of things or you will have bad batches. That’s just part
of the risk. BC: Do you have any advice for homebrewers if they choose to brew on the wild side? Are
there fundamental mistakes many make?
Large oak foudres at Anchorage, where Gabe expertly ages his beers with wood.
Fletcher: I wouldn’t start by putting wort outside and fermenting it. That can be tricky (and dangerous) if you’re not careful.
I’ve done primary Brett beers and secondary Brett beers, and I definitely prefer beers where the Brett was introduced into
the secondary fermentation. I feel that you get much more complexity out of the beers that way. There are a few myths out
there – like Brett can’t handle hops. Actually Brett is a hop’s best friend. You can have a really hoppy beer and the Brett will
keep the hops from oxidizing. The Galaxy White IPA, you can have it two years from now and the hops will die down but
they won’t oxidize. The esters come up and the Brett is more forward, making it a different experience, but the hops still
taste fresh because of the Brettanomyces. The Brett stays alive so much longer than regular saccharomyces yeast. Also, if
you want to make a true wild beer don’t force carbonate it – it needs to be alive. BC: What would you tell people who have trouble grasping the often confusing terms like
wild, sour, funky, farmhouse and barnyard?
Fletcher: People say in reviews online: “This beer has Brett in it, but it isn’t sour.” The presence of Brettanomyces doesn’t
make a beer sour. It will create a little tartness over time, but it takes all the other organisms to create sourness in beers.
Also, I don’t understand all these beers that are supposed to have horse blanket and barnyard flavors from Brett. I think
when you have Brett in its purest form, it has all these beautiful fruity and woody notes.
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Innovators Series
Jeremy Cowan speaks at a BevNet conference.
Jeremy Cowan:
How to Build a Brewery with Shtick and Mortar
By Michael Agnew
Jeremy Cowan is an idea guy. Conversing with him
means keeping up with a mind that whirs at 110 mph.
Concepts and connections seem to spin effortlessly
from his head, most often expressed with a touch of
humor. Cowan’s clever wit is immediately apparent.
Puns and jokes – mostly subtle, sometimes not – pour
out of his mouth in a steady stream. “Shtick” is what
he calls it. Combined with an ebullient, extroverted
demeanor, these two attributes make Cowan the perfect front man for the Jewish circus sideshow that is
Shmaltz Brewing Company.
DON’T PASS OUT, PASSOVER
I first met Jeremy Cowan in October, 2008 at City Beer
Store in San Francisco. Over a couple of hours, and
more than a couple of beers, we talked about Shmaltz,
beer, politics, the hop crisis, and the price of Palo Alto
real estate. Shmaltz was still in its bi-coastal phase then.
Cowan’s address was in San Francisco and the beer was
made in New York. I say Cowan’s address was in San
Francisco because he didn’t spend much time there. He
was in the midst of a years-long promotional tour that
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had him couch surfing from city to city. The Shmaltz
home office was little more than a P.O. Box and Cowan’s
phone. He maintained a storefront for his Coney Island brand on Surf Avenue in Brooklyn, billed as “The
World’s Smallest Brewery.” At the time we met, the hop shortage of 2008 was at full
intensity. With each overdone IPA we drank, Cowan
beefed about the conspicuous excesses of other brewers
at a time when he couldn’t get the basic hops needed
to produce his beers. The shtick kept coming, too. He
mused about a possible collaboration with Oskar Blues
called Oskar Jews and Jewish Blues, with beers commemorating Jewish bluesmen and famous Jews named
Oskar. It was a memorable and amusing conversation. Cowan stepped into the beer industry from a different
direction than most. Brewers typically start with a set of
beers that they want to make and build a brand around
it. But Cowan wasn’t a brewer when he founded Shmaltz
in 1996. By his own admission he knew relatively little
about beer. True to his nature, Cowan built his company on an idea – a Coors Light-fueled joke among high
school friends that the Jews should have their own beer.
The beer would be called He’brew and the tagline would
be “Don’t pass out, Passover.” The shtick came first. The
beers and the company were built around it. In hindsight, Cowan says that he had really started a
sales and marketing company more than a beer company. For the first seventeen years of its existence, Shmaltz
didn’t even have a brewery. Cowan followed the example
of craft beer pioneers Pete Slosberg and Jim Koch by
having his beer contract brewed. This allowed him an
affordable entry. The first batch of Genesis Ale cost just
$2,000. But it also allowed Cowan, a one-man show for
most of those years, to focus on what he does best: generate shtick and put it into the world. It is only recently that Cowan has crossed over and built his
own brewery in Clifton Park, New York – a radical change
and a steep learning curve. “I never thought we’d have a
brewery,” he said. “I didn’t think we’d have 30 people. I
thought we’d have four or five people. Even going from two
or three to four or five or six was a big jump. I’m still learning while doing, which is very tiring.” Despite the bricks and mortar, kettles and fermenters,
Cowan will continue to draw heavily on the rich tradition of Jewish comedy to help spread the word about
his beer. Provocative and playful, Jewish shtick is a large
piece of the He’brew identity. It’s one of the “three pillars” on which Cowan built his brand – quality, community and shtick. The use of the pillars metaphor is itself
a play on the foundational pillars of Judaism; Torah,
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
One of Cowan’s many methods of getting the attention
of craft beer enthusiasts.
worship and acts of loving-kindness. Jewish humor pervades the marketing. He’brew is “The
chosen beer.” The flagship Messiah Nut Brown is “The
beer you’ve been waiting for.” Signage made to look like
an ancient tapestry quotes God proclaiming, “Christ, that’s
good beer.” A video clip shows two Hasidic rabbis entering a saloon, a turn on the classic “two Jews walk into a
bar” theme. Beer names reference Old Testament figures.
Slingshot American Craft Lager, for instance, invokes the
underdog David taking on the Goliath of big beer. Irreverent events like the annual Hanukkah vs. Christmas Holiday
Beer Throwdowns are staged across the country.
Cowan himself develops much of the shtick. The riffs on
the Jewish refrain certainly have helped him sell what is
arguably one of the world’s most niche brands. But for
Cowan it’s more than just a gimmick. Though playful, he
Jeremy Cowan started as a marketer and worked until he had his own brewery.
takes the link to his Jewish culture seriously. In his autobiography Craft Beer Bar Mitzvah he writes, “I’m trying
to be provocative, outrageous, and colorful, but also sincere and thoughtful, precise and composed.” A glimpse
below the surface reveals how everything from the label
on the bottle down to the ingredients and flavors works
together to form a holistic package with multiple layers
of interpretation and understanding. beer traditionally associated with Lent, together with
Easter another holiday associated with renewal and
rejuvenation. The traditional symbol of bock is the ram.
An important part of the Rosh Hashanah holiday is the
blowing of the shofar, a ram’s horn. The first version of
Rejewvenator contained fig juice. Figs are one of the sacred fruits mentioned in the Torah. Subsequent releases
used others, such as dates and grapes. All He’brew beers are certified kosher. Many have
complex connections to Judaic traditions. Take the fall
seasonal Rejewvenator, a fruit-infused mashup of a doppelbock and a Belgian dubbel. It is brewed to commemorate Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Rosh Hashanah is a holiday about introspection and rejuvenation,
a reflection on the mistakes of the past and changes to
be made in the coming year. The surface-level shtick
is obvious. By naming it Rejewvenator, Cowan could
use “Jew” in the name, play on the traditional “tor”
ending of doppelbock names, and convey the spirit of
the holiday. But there are deeper parallels. Bock is a
For his Miraculous Jewbelation anniversary beers Cowan
takes his shtick inspiration from the numerology of Jewish mysticism, creating labels that read like a bottle of Dr.
Bronner’s soap. Each year’s creation uses ingredients in
amounts that correspond to the anniversary year. Jewbelation 8 for instance, used eight malts and eight hops, and
clocks in at 8 percent ABV. Cowan’s label shtick for that
beer explores the miraculous role of the number eight
in Jewish life from the sacred – Hanukkah, Passover and
Sukkot each spans eight days – to the profane – Mel Brooks
stole a cap gun from Woolworth’s at age eight and Seinfeld
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DEATH OF A CONTRACT BREWER
Though the mid-1990s brought craft beer’s first big boom,
its mass appeal was still limited and its staying power
was questionable. Cowan’s challenge of selling an ultraniche brand in this market was exacerbated by his almost
complete ignorance of how the industry worked. He had to
learn by doing. His long learning curve saw costly trademark disputes, pallets of beer locked up by distributors,
and sometimes rocky relationships with a succession of
contract brewers including Anderson Valley Brewing Company, Mendocino Brewing Company and Olde Saratoga.
The tribulations of contract brewing are discussed in full
detail in Craft Beer Bar Mitzvah. Some of the problem
was Cowan’s naivety when it came to beers. For brewers
looking for a flavor profile he suggested, “Give me the best
pastrami on rye that you can manage.” Some brewers made
beers for Shmaltz by blending two in-house brands, an
approach that Cowan himself endorsed early on. The business conflicts included the unauthorized sale of Shmaltz by
a contract partner and at least one brewpub in San Francisco that he organized on behalf of a brewing partner, who
then backed out of the arrangement. Cowan’s lack of knowledge sometimes worked in his favor.
His naivety allowed him to ask for and sometimes receive
things that a more experienced person would not have
reasonably expected. “It gave me the confidence and the
freedom to just simply behave as though I deserved a
conversation with a chain buyer or I deserved a spot on a
shelf. I didn’t have the built-in layers of compromise and inhibition. It allowed me to just behave as myself. Sometimes
I’d be vulnerable and other times I’d be confident. I think
that the buyers responded to that.”
The first decade was a struggle, though. The company was
funded largely on credit cards and profits were slim at best.
Cowan says that it was a commitment to extreme beers and
a realization about the true nature of his enterprise that
turned things around for Shmaltz. “It wasn’t until I admitted that it was a beer company that we saw people get
more and more interested on the consumption side. The
previous excitement had been more about PR. I got lots of
articles written about how quirky and clever and silly and
fun the beer was, but that didn’t necessarily translate into
thousands of people buying a six-pack every month or two
and then re-buying another six-pack and another six-pack.
It was really 10 years into the company until it started really
being a little bit more consistent.”
After 17 years of contract brewing, Shmaltz broke ground on
a brewery of its own in 2013. This move was motivated by
desperation and the recognition of the changing nature of
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
the market. Craft beer’s second big explosion has stretched
brewery capacities thin. The number of options for contract brewing partners has become limited. The pipeline
shrunk just as Shmaltz’s product line grew more complex.
By 2012 Shmaltz had 10 core brands, 10 to 15 seasonals, and
a barrel-aging program. Cowan’s portfolio was bigger than
those of the breweries that were making his beer. Continued contract brewing had become unsustainable. But Cowan also saw a shift in consumer demands. “Local
is on fire.” he said. “People want a visceral, tactile connection to how and where the beer is made.” The brewery in
Clifton Park, New York gives his beers local credibility at
least in that state, one of Shmaltz’s biggest markets. It’s not
by accident the brewery is near Albany, where there is a local brewing tradition that peaked in the 19th Century when
hop and grain fields flourished nearby and the Hudson
River made delivering the famed Albany Ale to New York
City and beyond relatively easy. The brewery also adds a facet to Cowan’s quest for multilayered interaction with his beers. “People love the ideas,
but they really also love the hands-on nature of brewing.
Now we have an extra layer of connection.”
The move is not without its own complications. In a very
short time Shmaltz went from being a one man operation
with no home office to having 30 employees, real estate,
and expensive equipment. Cowan says that juggling the
demands of growing a national brand and running a beer
factory isn’t easy. “I was working 100 percent of the time
before on just sales and marketing.” he told me. “And now
I’m working 100 percent of the time on sales and marketing
and 100 percent of the time on production.” LOOKING AHEAD
Throughout its history Shmaltz has been an innovator. The
marketing was brash and irreverent at a time when most
beer branding revolved around, in Cowan’s words, “Fishing or dogs or regional geography.” The beers were big and
bold before extreme was a thing. Then there is that Jewish
niche. But times have changed. In-your-face marketing is
commonplace. Excessive alcohol and odd ingredients are
the norm. With growing competition it’s almost essential
that breweries find a niche. How does a once cutting-edge
brewery stay innovative?
“That is a very interesting and important question,” said
Cowan. “Especially in a beer world where right now everybody is a voyeur. There is no real brand loyalty. We’re
talking about it all the time. Even look at brands like Sam
Adams, Sierra Nevada, New Belgium. The brands that they
focused almost 100 percent of their efforts on five years ago,
some of them are brands they don’t even really push any
more. Those big companies now have 60-plus beers that
they make in a year. Which is crazy.”
For Cowan the answer is to go even more boutique. “The
way I’m looking at it now is smaller innovations that might
involve more muscle from our national organization, but
will give consumers that sense of ‘What’s new? What’s
new?’” His idea is to leverage rare beers with small runs to
build interest in their core brands. This means an expansion of the barrel-aging program and more beers like the
She’Brew Triple IPA (11% ABV, 110 IBU) that was made for
International Women’s Collaboration Brew Day, of which
only 600 cases were brewed. Of course the shtick isn’t going away. For one thing, Cowan
is a much sought after speaker at events around the country, enabling him to deliver it in person. The Immaculate
Collaboration series will continue to help spread the word
and turn out brews with cheeky names like St. Lenny’s,
brewed with the Cathedral Square Brewery in St. Louis –
the Catholics and the Jews breaking liquid bread together.
It’s a Belgian-style take on Shmaltz’s Bittersweet Lenny’s
Imperial Rye IPA.
Hanukkah is a busy time for Shmaltzy shtick. Seasons past
have brought quirky products like a beer menorah. This
year Shmaltz will once again lend some much needed light
to the impending winter darkness with Hanukkah, Chanukah: Pass The Beer. Made with eight malts, eight hops, and
weighing in at 8 percent ABV, it’s a reprise of that miraculous number 8 from the first Jewbelation anniversary beer.
Seinfeld did run for eight seasons, after all. L’chaim!
Jeremy Cowan holding a bottle of Genesis 10:10 from
Shmaltz Brewing.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
19
Like father, like Jame-son. (Courtesy Deep Ellum)
America in Barrels:
The Jameson Drinking Buddies Program
By Jim Dykstra
Barrel-aged is a phrase that can bring a twinkle of intrigue to the most banal of brews. When done right, the
elixir within can summon flavors powerful enough to
suspend time and cause statues of Dionysus to shed a
single whiskey-laden teardrop.
So when five American craft breweries got a call from
Jameson, makers of the famed Irish whiskey, they knew
something special was fomenting, and would soon be
fermenting.
The concept was simple enough – Jameson would fly
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
brewers from each company to Ireland, show them how
Jameson was made, and send them home with six barrels apiece to make a special collaboration beer. The
execution was not as simple. In the case of Jameson, a
235 year-old company, barrels are not given out lightly.
“We want to stay in control of everything that comes out
of our barrels,” said Dave Quinn, Jameson’s Master of
Whiskey Science.
In fact, until the previous year, no barrels had ever been
given to a U.S. company. Even then, it was one company,
New York’s KelSo Beer Co., and only ten barrels, which
housed a lovingly aged KelSo IPA.
The result was successful enough that Jameson made it
an official, annual event – the Jameson Drinking Buddies program. This year’s selections were chosen based
on passion, both for their craft and for the communities
they serve. Here are the tasting notes for each:
--Angel City Brewery Imperial Irish Ale
“Our aim in creating the Imperial Irish Red Ale was to create
a beer that reflected the history, complexity and character of
the Jameson experience, and also spoke strongly to our local
audience of passionate and loyal craft beer lovers.” – Jon
Carpenter, Angel City Brewmaster
ABV – 15.0%
Color – Rich mahogany hue.
Aroma – Ripe fig and toffee notes.
Flavor – Light vanilla, molasses, black cherries and a
distinct peppery finish. The beer has an indulgent, yet
subtle sweetness, full body, and lingering warmness
Sipping the Devil’s Cut in the City of Angels. (Courtesy
Angel City)
Flavor – Deep and rich, with a big malt backbone,
chocolate and coffee flavors and a restrained hop character.
The Jameson barrels lend a layer of complexity that is
highlighted by vanilla and toasted oak.
Deep Ellum Brewing Company Local
Legend Jameson Edition
“We all brought some great ideas to the table and this one
was overwhelmingly the best one. The stout as the base beer
was a no-brainer. The usage of a portion of unmalted barley
in the mash is a Jameson tradition. Pecans are a Texas tradition. This collaboration was meant to be!” - Jeremy Hunt,
Deep Ellum Brewmaster
ABV – 6.0%
Color – Deep black.
Aroma - Notes of vanilla and caramel, hints of licorice.
Flavor - Rich mouthfeel from the flaked barley, notes of
dark chocolate and roasted grains as well as an uncommon
smoothness. Drafting a pint of Deep Ellum’s Local Legend, a creamy
sweet stout with pecans. (Courtesy Deep Ellum)
Captain Lawrence Brewing Company
Trans-Atlantic Red
“We wanted the beer to be able to stand up to the strength of
the wood, and blend into one. We didn’t want one to overpower the other.” –Scott Vaccaro, Captain Lawrence Founder
ABV – 7.0%
Color – Deep auburn with highlights of red.
Aroma – Rich and malty, with hints of chocolate and citrus
fruit.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
21
Great Divide Brewing Company The
Smoothness
“I just felt a great responsibility to take a little bit of Ireland,
take a little bit of Denver and create something completely
new that the community could be able to enjoy.” – Ethan
Osborne, Great Divide Head Brewer
ABV – 8.5% Color – Dark brown to black.
Aroma –Whiskey notes, chocolate, oak and leather.
Flavor – Dark, smooth lager that has a velvety, silky mouthfeel that accentuates roasted malt, vanilla and oak. It has a
medium malt backbone that makes for a very balanced and
highly quaffable lager that highlights the characteristics of
the Jameson barrels.
Each brewery hosted a tasting of all the beers, along
with Jameson’s whiskey wares. (Courtesy Great Divide)
Hilliard’s Beer Jameson Whiskey
Barrel Sour
“I think primarily we were reminded that everyone in this
business, the making and selling booze business, started from
the same place. We’re all just people with passion, doing our
best to create a product of the highest quality and hoping that
our customers know that every time they taste it. Knowing
that, even when you’re as big and well known as Jameson,
it’s possible to continue to create a craft product and be true
to your values.” – Ryan Hilliard, Hilliard’s Founder
ABV – 5.5%
Color – Chestnut.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Aroma – Citrus, spiced wood and a light sweetness.
Flavor – Kettle-soured saison with tart, lemony notes from
the Belgian yeast and lactobacillus. Flavors of caramel,
vanilla and charred oak imparted by the barrels.
--Like all rare and fantastic beasts, you’re going to have a
hard time finding these brews, because they were oneoffs, and kegged. Never fear. Jameson is turning this into
an annual program. We’ll have the details on next year’s
brews in time for you to snag a sip or three.
Style Studies
by Owen Ogletree
A tough guy walks into a bar. He looks the bartender dead in the eye. “Give me a beer,” he says with deliberate gravitas. “And a back story to go with it.”
Whether in a bar or drinking solo at home on the back patio while watching a sunset, we all drink beer in
a context. A current TV ad campaign creates a context, for example, about how hard people work to brew
a well-known brand of beer. The back story of hard work is contrasted with partying hard without necessarily focusing on what’s in the beer.
But why not have the best of all worlds? Know what’s in the beer and what makes it special, know the
story behind the beer and its style to better enjoy when the occasion calls for a beer. In this issue, Owen tells the story behind a deceptively strong Belgian style and then delves into what distinguishes a fruit beer from a shandy.
Stay thirsty for knowledge, my friends. www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
23
FRUIT BEER
When it comes to fruit beers, there often seems to be no
middle ground. Usually, people will claim to either love
them or hate them, but when presented with a worldclass fruit beer made by a talented brewer with generous
amounts of real fruit, the usual response goes something
like, “Wow, that’s not bad.”
The current popularity of commercial shandies and easydrinking “gateway” fruit beers flavored with mild extracts
has also led to increased interest in classic fruit beers that
are based on recognized beer styles and made with whole
fruit, puree or juice.
The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines uses the “culinary” definition of fruit in the description of its fruit beer category. It describes fruit as “fleshy,
seed-associated structures of plants that are sweet or sour
and edible in the raw state.” Apples, stone fruit, berries,
citrus, dried fruit and tropical fruit come to mind.
Balance is vital to a classic fruit beer. There should be a
pleasant, well-proportioned blend of beer and fruit flavors,
and the drinker should still be able to identify the beverage
as a beer and pick out aromas and flavors of the base beer
style.
Often challenging and expensive to brew, superlative
fruit beers can contain massive amounts of fruit or juice.
Brewers must experiment to discover which base beer
works best with each type of fruit. When should the fruit
be added? Too early in the boil, and fresh fruit character
caramelizes and boils away. When added in the fermenter,
bacteria and wild yeasts on fruit skins can completely alter
the character of the resulting brew. Pasteurized fruit puree
or juice can prevent this problem.
Contrary to logic, sugars in fruits usually do not contribute
a great deal of sweetness to the finished fruit beer. Brewer’s
yeast feeds on sugar, converting it to alcohol, carbon dioxide and various other organic compounds. Adding a large
volume of fruit will elevate the alcohol content of a beer. Peels, seeds and pits have the ability to contribute noticeable aroma and flavor complexity. For example, a cherry
porter made with juice will present the character of clean,
fresh cherries, while the same beer made with whole cherries will offer notes of woody tannins from the peel and
stems and a nutty, almondy complexity from the pits.
Fruit character should never come across as cloying,
insipid, soda pop-like or artificial. Harmonious, balanced
fruit tones should be present in the beer’s aroma, flavor
and color (if the fruit has a distinct color). One should be
able to identify the general type of fruit and appreciate its
marriage with the base beer style. Imagine a raspberry
American wheat beer that pours with a pink head, lovely
red liquid hue and an impressive nose and palate of pureed
berries and seeds – all supported by an appealing, bready,
wheat malt backbone and light hops.
STATS
O.G.: Varies
IBUs: Varies
SRM: Varies
ABV: Varies
Commercial Examples: Founders Rübæus, New Glarus
Wisconsin Belgian Red, Unibroue Éphémère, Dogfish
Head Aprihop, Bell›s Cherry Stout, Atlantic Brewing
Bar Harbor Blueberry Ale
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
BELGIAN GOLDEN STRONG ALE
Founded in 1871 by Jan-Leonard Moortgat on a farm in
the Flemish town of Puurs, the fledgling Moortgat Brewery produced popular regional beers and delivered them
toBrussels by horse and dray. The brewery later survived
the turmoil of World War I, and Jan-Leonard’s son and successor Albert decided to produce a U.K.-inspired pale ale to
honor the triumphant British troops.
Albert Moortgat traveled to Scotland, where he procured a
culture of ale yeast to create the new Victory Ale. But his
Belgian brewing training and enthusiasm resulted in a golden ale much stronger in alcohol than the typical English ale.
A local shoemaker in Puurs, after enjoying several glasses
of the potent brew, stumbled out of this chair and declared,
“This is the beer of the devil.”
Soon afterward, Victory Ale was renamed Duvel – a
Flemish word for devil. The beer founded the style known
as Belgian Golden Strong Ale, and the immensely popular
Duvel is now sold around the world, often introducing
many people to the appeal and complexity of Belgian ales.
Pouring with the yellow/gold hue and spritzy effervescence
of a pilsner, deceptive Belgian Golden Strong Ales often
entrap unsuspecting drinkers by offering the illusion of a
quaffable, sessionable blonde beer. In reality, substantial
quantities of pilsner malt, along with generous additions of
dextrose, candi sugar and/or other sugary adjuncts, provide enough foodstuff for highly attenuative, top-fermenting
Belgian ale yeasts to create impressive alcohol levels without ending up with a heavy body and mouthfeel.
Intricate fruity and hoppy notes dominate the nose and
palate of this style with intriguing spicy notes arising from
warm fermentation. Expect esters reminiscent of pale fruits
that include pear, citrus, kiwi, apple and honeydew. Low
to moderate phenols similar to black pepper and dessert
spices may be present in the aroma and dry finish, along
with elegant, floral, spicy hop character – usually from Old
World varieties such as Saaz and Styrian Goldings. brands are carbonated in the bottle by residual yeast, try to
leave the last ounce of beer in the bottle to avoid pouring
the sediment.
STATS
O.G.: 1.070 to 1.095
IBUs: 22 to 35
SRM: 3 to 6
ABV: 7.5 to 10.5%
Commercial Examples: Duvel, Delirium Tremens,
Lucifer, Piraat, North Coast Pranqster, Russian River
Damnation, Brooklyn Local 1
Despite the lofty alcohol content of Belgian Golden Strong
Ales, aroma and flavor notes of fusels, solvents and hot
alcohols should never be detected. The overall profile and
light to medium mouthfeel should reflect delicate pilsner
malt and offer a mild, slightly sweet character.
Always pour a Belgian Golden Strong Ale into an oversized
tulip-shaped glass with enough force to fill the top half or
third of the glass with a considerable, fluffy white layer
of foam. Watch as the long-lasting head settles into a soft,
creamy, lacy, cloud-like configuration that contributes
delightful hop resins and bitterness to each sip. Since many
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
25
Connoisseur’s Corner:
Homebrewed Life Lessons
by Marty Jones
Homebrewing teaches you good, practical stuff. How to follow a recipe, the life cycle of yeast, some good geography
and history. (Tell the truth: Did you know a thing about Belgium or either Pliny before becoming a beer connoisseur?)
Sometimes the lessons are even more practical, and unexpected. While preparing to flush out the catheter bag of an
ailing loved one, it hit me. I’m sure glad I’ve homebrewed.
Had I never bought The Complete Joy of Homebrewing and
made hefeweizen at home, I’d be at a loss for how to get
two cups of sanitizing solution down a tiny plastic tube and
into a collapsed plastic pouch.
Yes, making beer at home instills gallons of life lessons that
make delicious, homemade beer – as grand as that is – perhaps the least of zymurgy’s many pluses.
What better way to learn the bennies of patience than
having to wait two weeks for a beer to ferment, and two
more weeks for it to carbonate? That long?! For the
startup homebrewer and the instant-gratification set,
such a wait rivals NASA engineers sending satellites to
deep space and Guns N’ Roses fans waiting for the next
CD to drop. Make it yourself and the message becomes
clear: Good things come to those who wait and properly
employ an airlock.
All management types should be required to brew beer.
Want to learn how to keep your workers happy and productive? Tend to yeast in a fermenter. It’s a quick way to
discover that trust, the proper work conditions and the
right amount of sugar are vital for a staff to deliver work in
tasteful, timely fashion.
Joining a home brew club is a superb way to develop tact
and Jiminy Cricket’s “accentuate the positive” skills. “What
do you think of my home brew?” is a question as delicate
to answer as “What political party are you?” To answer it
without sending someone’s cap flying requires seasoned
skills in constructive criticism and diplomacy.
On the flip side, perseverance and rejection-handling skills
take flight when one is asking that question. When the
thumbs down is aimed at your self-made, bottled pride and
joy – “I know stout. I worked with stout. Your brown ale is
no stout.” – an ability to brush off criticism and move on is
severely tested.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Politicians forced into government-mandated homebrew
clubs could solve any government problem with ease and
earn some across-the-aisle pats on the back.
Making beer can allow people to fulfill themselves in roles
once thought out of reach. “Beer is the only thing,” my
brother Chris says, “that I can bring to life, protect through
gestation and nurture to tasteful adulthood.” He can’t make
kids on his own, but brewing means he can overcome his
“womb envy.” Can woodworking and golf do that?
Of course, today many homebrewers-turned-commercialbrewers know the other pluses that brewing teaches.
These men and women know that sometimes the best
thing to do is craft your own recipes, defy traditions,
and be brave enough to challenge the macro-status-quo.
Such trailblazing delivers delicious results for at-home
and on-the-job brewers alike. Me, I’m thinking of the brewed lessons I’ve learned about
cleanliness and sanitation – right now an infected beer is
the least of my worries – and optimism. What to do? Apply
siphon skills and drain bag. Flush again with sanitizer and
rinse. Clean fittings and reconnect. Squeeze hand, kiss
goodnight. Tuck in, turn out light. “Relax, don’t worry.”
Advertisement
Chicha: Bolivia’s Tart Beer
by Martin Thibault
Gentle tartness from citrusy and lactic
acidity. Straw-like cereal flavors and
very low carbonation. A dry mouthfeel,
a rustic juxtaposition of ingredients
and no herb or hop presence. If this
description sounds familiar, that is
perfectly normal. These are flavor and
texture characteristics that the Western
beer world has already accepted. But
it has never quite adopted chicha as a
proper beer style.
Sure, the word chicha has broad
shoulders in Central and South
America, referring to many kinds of
beverages, alcoholic or not. Let’s not
allow this all-inclusive terminology
to blur the understanding and
appreciation of what can sometimes
be a tantalizing tart brew. If unblended
lambic, Berliner Weisse and other
olden styles of the sour sort are considered to be beer, the traditional chicha
made by the Quechua people in the
Cochabamba valley of Bolivia also
deserves to be recognized as a bona
fide beer style. From malting their own
corn to conducting decoction mashes,
from letting the wort sit at lukewarm,
acidifying temperatures to geeking out
on serving methods and levels of drinkability, the Bolivians who still honor
their Incan brewing roots are every bit
as much of beer brewers as those we
revere on the other side of the Atlantic.
Meet the Corn Maltstress
The gorgeous colonial town of
Totora is about a two-hour drive
from the city of Cochabamba. Here,
people write on walls to advertise
sales. Brewers hang a white flag or
red star outside their doors to say
that chicha is ready. But otherwise,
the walls of houses and businesses
stay bare – a stunning foray into advertising’s past which might explain
28
| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
part of Westerners’ confusion in
regards to the local brew.
For a town populated by barely
2,000 people, the number of
chicherias is high in Totora; as
high as the most dense brewery
villages in Franconian Germany.
Seems obvious that a maltstress
would be necessary to supply
the distinctive locally grown corn
called wilkaparuto all these brewers in the form of malt, right?
Doña Leonor Mariscal, 70 years
old, does just that for her fellow
villagers. In her tiny ramshackle
building, once a chicheria itself,
she steeps the corn and lets it
germinate a bit on a large piece of
cloth laid out in the sun, directly
on the cobblestone street in front
of her building. The sun is sometimes hot enough to dry out her
corn malt, but she admits to using
ashes sometimes to complete the
process. She then bags the malt
and lets the area chicha brewers
grind this corn into a flour at their
own breweries. But not Doña
Bertha, a lady brewer from a few
houses away. She takes too long
to pay.
Doña Narcissa,
Chicha Brewer
A few kilometers outside Totora is
a hamlet that basically serves as
a large rest area for those driving
through. Epizana even has an inn
which humorously borrows the
Hotel Hilton name. Steps away,
Doña Narcissa and her granddaughter brew chicha for the
one-room pub in front of their
family house. The pub’s earthen
floor is riddled with bumps and
mini-craters because of the large
number of people who, as is
Chicha cooper Don Morales repurposes wood from the native ochoo tree to make his barrels. (Credit: Martin Thibault)
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
29
customary, have purposely dropped a
small offering from their first bowlful
to Pachamama, or Mother Earth. Once
you step out of this room, you walk
through the family house, consisting
of a few rooms and an open-air space
in the middle for cooking, washing
and doing other daily tasks. The brewery room is about as big as the twotable pub out front.
Doña Narcissa mashes in her corn
mixture at lukewarm temperatures.
There is no thermometer here, obviously. Just experience. The mash
very much resembles a decoction
mash in that she takes a small quantity of upi, the Quechuan word for
wort, and brings it to a boil before
sending it back to her huge, woodfired copper cauldron. The smoke
from the eucalyptus wood she uses
to heat the receptacle is blinding
to anyone who enters the brewing
room, but no doubt Narcissa is used
to it. And her granddaughter, still a
teen, seems impervious to the stinging
as well. She is the one carrying out
explanations in Spanish, as Narcissa
only speaks Quechuan, like most
people in these parts. Although highly
surprised at a Westerner›s visit to her
village, and her house specifically,
she is unfazed by technical questions and seems entirely ready to
carry on Narcissa›s work. Traditional
Cochabambina chicha appears safe in
Epizana.
A Thirst for Tartness
Like all brewers in the Cochabamba
valley, Doña Narcissa creates the
proper conditions for fruitiness and
acidity to show up in every batch.
The long hours of mashing – 14 hours
in Narcissa’s case – and the overnight
cooling help her chicha gain its refreshing tartness. Lactobacillus notes
abound, but citric acidity also clings
to the finish of every sip.
Although the duo assured us that
every brewer has a different recipe,
there exist many similarities between
brewers and brewing processes in this
rural part of Bolivia. For one, nobody
boils the upi once the mash is done.
After mashing, most transfer the first
runnings into a second vessel, and a
third, and sometimes a fourth, where
the upi cools down and is clarified.
Part of the spent corn at the bottom of
each vessel, which tastes like unbaked cookies at this point, is given
to animals. The part that stays in the
brewery is as vital to a chicheria as
a lambic brewery›s house cultures.
The queta, as it is called in Quechuan
language, will indeed be Narcissa›s
main fermentation source. She will
keep it on low heat for a few hours to
prepare it for the fermenters.
Once the upi reaches the fermentation
barrels, often simple vertical bins,
it is given the queta to help with
fermentation. Lactic fermentation
then occurs over the course of
three to eight days, depending on
the season and its temperatures. A
healthy kräusen can rapidly be seen
on top of these bins, protecting the
brew from unwanted airborne organisms, be they flies or wild yeast. The
fermentation therefore seems to be
nearly entirely carried out by the
natural content of the corn. Many
traditional cochabambina brewers
like Doña Narcissa do not seem aware
that the lactic acid bacteria contained
within the corn is the true origin of
the alcohol, light fizz and acidic flavor
of their brew. But what matters is that
they are always able to quench chicha
lovers› thirst for delicate tartness; the
science behind their brewing methods isn›t a major concern.
A Chicha Barrelmaker
Although a chicha brewery in rural Bolivia may look like a witch’s playground,
there is seriously spellbinding beer being brewed there. Yes, beer. Because of
malting, mashing and fermenting practices used, one cannot help but realize
that Cochabambina Chicha is indeed beer. It is a beer style that dates all the
way back to the Incas and is still brewed in remote areas of Bolivia. (Credit:
Martin Thibault)
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
On the main road leading out of
Cochabamba city into the countryside
valley, a building houses the business
of Don Morales: he builds and reconditions wooden barrels made from
the ochoo tree. Contrary to many
other alcoholic drinks being aged
in wooden barrels, chicha is only
transported in wooden barrels from
brewery to pubs. But that remains a
pivotal moment in a chicha›s life. At
barely 3 percent or 4 percent alcohol
Meet Doña Leonor Mariscal, a 70-year-old Quechua woman
who malts corn for her village’s chicha brewers. (Credit: Martin
Thibault)
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
31
Bolivian local Alberto knows how to sniff out the finest chicha. (Credit: Martin Thibault)
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
most of the time, and with varying levels of lactic acidity and other potential
bacterial sources, when it comes to
chicha the fresher, the better. This Cochabambina chicha is a raw brew, just
like some Lithuanian Kaimiškas Alus,
Norwegian Maltøl or most Finnish
Sahti. It needs to be consumed very
quickly or else it will spoil and become too sour, a feature the locals do
not want in their brew.
When the filled barrel Don Morales
makes arrives at the chicheria, of
which there are hundreds in the Cochabamba valley, the owner of the traditional pub transfers the fresh chicha
into huge clay pots calledwirke. And
thus commences the drinking and
socializing. The chicheria, that place
with a white flag or red star hanging
from its door, can be as small as the
tiniest microbrewery tasting room, or
as raucous and convivial as typical
Bavarian beer gardens nestled under
trees. People come to their favorite
brewer to mingle just like we do at our
favorite brewpub or bar. And sometimes, things get out of hand...
Even though the small wooden bowl
used to drink or chug the chicha – a
bowl made from the half shell of the
tutuma fruit – cannot contain more
than a few ounces, copious amounts
can get guzzled at any time of day.
Carpenters in the town of Punata,
for example, don’t work on Mondays – that’s their day to drink. And
just like in many English real ale pubs,
the low alcohol level of this barely
carbonated brew doesn’t stop some
punters, or any carpenter for that matter, from conversing idly for hours or
getting completely smashed. Luckily
for the discerning drinker, the chicheria is also the place to meet those
who taste, analyse and talk about
their brew with fondness.
Meet Alberto,
Chicha Geek
– “Arggh... it’s surely from
the bottom of the barrel, this
one.”
– “This is served way too cold.”
– “The texture on this one is
beautifully round, but it’s a
tad too sweet in the end.”
Sound familiar? Yes, there is also
a minority of chicha drinkers who
are passionate about their alcoholic
drink of choice and who strive to find
examples in the best condition possible. Alberto Butron, Cochabambino
chicha lover, looks for drinkability
of course, clean flavors and a sort of
balance between corn flavors, sweetness and tartness. Some chichas
can be terribly dirty, he says. Added
alcohol, found in chichas at the city’s
huge La Cancha market, for example,
is a no-no, and adding too much sugar
sometimes overwhelms the flavor and
spoils his pleasure. A molasses made
from sugar cane, calledchankaka, is
often used to boost alcohol and produce a cleaner fermentation, and that
is perfectly acceptable to him, just
like how candi sugar is employed in
many Belgian ales. Moreover, the
chicha geek likes to indulge in the
best examples he can find after having sampled many different versions
from area brewers. And oh, he attends
festivals too.
Just like Berliner weisse and lambic,
there exist many versions of this tart
and refreshing Cochabambina chicha.
Strawberry, pomegranate, wheat,
quinoa, even cinnamon ice cream
(a chicha float!). These can often be
found in town festivals; a great place
to discover that Cochabambina chicha
is not only the brew of choice in the
high Quechuan valley; it is a beer
world of its own.
Chicha’s Surmountable
Problems
Why is chicha still an enigma to most
Westerners from the beer industry?
A quick ramble in the Cochabamba
valley rapidly points to a few reasons.
For one, places that brew or sell traditional chicha in Bolivia only advertise themselves in the old-fashioned
way: an object hanging from their
front door. Those familiar with olden
Germany will be pleasantly surprised
to see stars hanging from chicherias
in Tarata. In Punata though, there
are small wooden signs that jut out
from the wall near the door. Along
the through roads, the most common
sign is a white flag that hangs from
a long bamboo branch arching over
sidewalks like an extended handshake
invitation. The flag, star and wooden
sign are the only ways to know that
chicha is being served. Moreover,
there are no ways to know whose
chicha is being drunk at a given place.
Most chicherias don’t have a name
and all call their brew chicha. That’s
it. A very effective way to stay shrouded in mystery, to say the least.
Stories of bad chicha also abound,
even among locals. Those who add
straight alcohol or tons of sugar
instead of corn malt have hurt the traditional brew’s reputation. But most of
all, the conditions in which most brew
are unsanitary if following modern
criteria; not inviting at all to those
requiring Western-style comforts. Like
many traditional foods and drinks
here, chicha has suffered because of
this, coming second to more Westerninspired offerings.
But a drink that is many centuries
old and inherited from Incan ancestors cannot die so easily. Quite a few
Quechua villages east of Cochabamba, like Tarata, Punata, and Totora,
have been preserving the tradition by
passing it on to their daughters. And
it probably won’t die if more people
learn to appreciate different cultures
that, in a beer sense, aren’t so dissimilar to our own.
Thanks to Remy van der Berg,
of El Mundo Verde, and Alberto
Butron for their help in locating
maltsters, brewers and barrelmakers, as well as creating
many a moment of merrymaking. Salud!
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
33
Brewery Tour: Bayou Teche
The Knott Family Makes Beer the Cajun Way
By Nora McGunnigle
When you pull into Bayou Teche Brewing’s property in
Arnaudville, expect some genuine Cajun hospitality. The
brewery is named after the neighboring waterway, the
Bayou Teche and is right outside Lafayette, Louisiana, arguably the epicenter of all things Cajun.
Bayou Teche Brewing is a family business – Karlos, Byron,
and Dorsey Knott and their families live on the surrounding
properties and all work together every day to bring their
beer to the community and to educate folks about Cajun
culture. The beers are specifically crafted and brewed to
complement the region’s cuisine and showcase local ingredients. Like much of Louisiana culture, the brewery has a
distinct European influence, with the predominant use of
French and German malts and hops.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Karlos Knott calls his family’s business “a cultural brewery.” The Knott brothers link the beer they make and drink
with the food they eat, the music they play and listen to,
the dialect they speak, and the Cajun culture they love.
Although the brewery’s taproom is open all week long, the
best and most joyous way to experience the Bayou Teche
Brewing experience is to show up on Saturday for tours,
music, and a general good time. Locals and visitors alike
mingle while sipping beer and listening to local bands like
Sweet Cecilia, Diego Martin-Perez, Linzay Young & Joel Savoy, Beausoleil Trio, Jimmy Breaux, the Blake Miller Band,
and, on special occasions, the Grammy-nominated Lost
Bayou Ramblers. (Founding member Louis Michot is also
an employee at the brewery.)
The weekends have become too busy for the informal craw-
fish boils and pig roasts of days past, but Lafayette area food
trucks fill the niche with food like jambalaya, Cajun-tinged
BBQ and creative burgers.
and kumquats added to the boil. The beer sold out almost
immediately. So, you never know what will be in store
when visiting these crazy Cajuns.
You’ll see people spread out on the side patio of the
brewery at picnic tables or folding chairs unpacked from
the back of the car, drinking beer, talking to their friends,
meeting new people, and, in some cases, doing a two-step
to the live music that’s playing. (The shows are always free,
but the hardworking musicians appreciate tips.)
If possible, check out the crawfish pond just behind the
brewery. Not only are crawfish local delicacies, but their
habitat is perfect for utilizing the naturally cleaned waste
water that comes out of the brewery. The water is cleaned
and treated through plants and other natural processes in a
three-pond system designed by the University of Louisiana
and the LSU Agriculture Department. It’s a great example of
how attuned the brewery is to the balance of its surroundings on even the most basic level.
Members of the Knott family lead the tours that are conducted on Saturdays, pointing out the brewery’s official
pirogue boat – flat-bottomed to navigate the bayou’s shallow waters – and telling tales about how one of the Knott
relatives was a bootlegger during Prohibition.
Their great-grandfather Charley would dress up as a priest
to make his moonshine runs into Texas. Since South
Louisiana and East Texas were heavily Catholic, no police
officer ever searched his booze-laden and faux priest-driven
automobile.
In addition to the brewery’s Saturday tours, arrangements
can be made in advance for private tours for large groups,
or even tours in French. The taproom is open Monday to
Thursday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays
from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. The brewery and taproom are closed
on Sundays.
Karlos Knott said that on one of his Texas runs, one of
Charley’s customers didn›t have the cash for the moonshine and offered a monkey up in trade instead, which
he took. «He had a little illicit bar in Arnaudville and he
set that monkey up on the bar,” said Knott. “If you paid a
dollar, which was a lot in those days, you could buy the
monkey a beer and he would drink it. His name was Macaques á Charley – French for Charley›s Monkey – and he
was something of a local celebrity. He survived Prohibition
and continued his job at my great-grandfather›s establishment for many years. Older folks still ask my mom about
that monkey.»
Google Maps put together an online tour back in 2013,
which is a great way to get the feel of the place. However,
the brewery has expanded significantly since then, with
four new 60-barrel fermenters (each named for towns that
sit on the banks of the Bayou Teche) installed at the end of
last year. It’s also more crowded due to an ever-increasing
number of whiskey, bourbon and wine barrels the brewers
are using to age their beer.
The taproom serves Bayou Teche’s core lineup: LA 31 Biere
Pale, the flagship “Louisiana pale ale,” Passionee, a passion
fruit wheat ale, LA 31 Biere Noir, a German-style schwarzbier, Boucanee, a cherrywood smoked wheat beer, and
Acadie, a rustic French Bière de Garde-style ale. There will
also be seasonal and barrel-aged beer available, along with
taproom-only experimental beers. These guys will experiment with anything – in addition to hops, malt, and yeast
tinkering, the brewery once served up a duck ale, based on
the British “cock ale” style, with a duck stuffed with ginger
The Bayou Teche patio is always a lively scene.
Bayou Teche Brewing
1106 Bushville Hwy.
Arnaudville LA 70512
info@bayoutechebrewing.com
(337) 754-5122
Tours
Saturday
10:30 a.m., Noon, 2 p.m., 6 p.m.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
35
A chili beer lineup that would make Texas Pete himself shed a tear. (Credit: Betsy Burts)
Chili Pepper Beers Bring the Heat
By Betsy Burts
Heartier, warming foods beckon as the weather cools off.
What better time to make a rich chili and some garnishes
using beer made with chili peppers?
The look and flavors of chili beers are as varied as they
are delectable, ranging from dark and mysterious to light
and airy. In addition to the pepper spice, the flavors often
include chocolate, cinnamon and coffee. When it comes
to the heat, some can be delicately balanced with lightly
spiced floral notes like Serrano Eye Patch IPA and others,
like Stone’s Crime and Punishment, are “Make me cry it’s
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
so darn hot.” A sampling can prove to be fun, eye-opening
and downright party-provoking, because these spicy beers
can really get people talking.
My journey into chili beers started off by sampling those
made with ancho, chipotle, serrano or habanero. Then I
experimented by using them in recipes, including some
add-ons that can help create a veritable chili feast for sharing with family and friends.
I make a robust turkey chili that draws its inspiration from
black mole, a classic Mexican “mother sauce.” The flavor
of chocolate works particularly well in my recipe, bringing
out the natural sweetness of the turkey. I decided to use a
Holy Mole Turkey Chili. (Credit: Betsy Burts)
Prairie Bomb Imperial Stout and its ancho component to
enhance this chili’s already thick and dark richness.
Deliciously full of ingredients and not hard to make, this
chili pairs well with a wide range of chili beers. As a meal, it
can stand alone, but why should it?
Mexico and Latin America have a popular garnish called
Crema. Easy to experiment with, it’s made by combining
sour cream with lime juice and is drizzled over a variety of
foods. I used chili beer and compatible flavorings to create
a Cocoa Molé Crema and a Chipotle Lime Crema.
Guacamole’s terrific on chili because it balances the heat.
Splash in some Billy’s Chilies for a hint of serrano pepper in
this Guac, before topping your chili and digging in.
Once a party gets started, there’s always a need for some
salsa. Enter Sculpin Habanero. This fine drinking beer has
a kick to it, which is masterfully balanced with a lovely, almost fruity note unique to habanero peppers. As a component of Mango Habanero Salsa, it adds just the right amount
of sweet heat that’s a wonderful surprise atop a bowl of
chili.
My verdict: Chili beers paired well with food, added
welcome flavor to recipes, inspired me and were easy to
experiment with. Not only are they great to drink and fun to
use as a recipe ingredient, they’re sure to spice up the conversation at your next gathering. Pass the chili and another
chili beer, please.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
37
Holy Mole Turkey Chili
Makes 8 generous servings, can be doubled
For less heat, cut the chipotle peppers by half,
though their flavor is a key ingredient in this chili.
Ingredients:
1 ½ tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil
1 each medium red, yellow, orange and green bell pepper, seeded
and diced
2 large sweet onions such as Vidalia, or yellow onions, diced
6 large cloves of garlic, minced
3 canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce minced (with seeds), plus
2 teaspoons of the adobo sauce
3 ½ tablespoons good quality chili powder
½ teaspoon ancho chili powder
¼ rounded teaspoon Chinese five spice
1 rounded teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons kosher salt
pinch of red pepper flakes
several grinds of freshly ground black pepper
2 whole bay leaves (optional)
1 16-ounce can no salt dark red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
well with water, drained again
1 16-ounce can no salt black beans, drained and rinsed well with
water, drained again
1 28-ounce can lower sodium whole plum tomatoes and their juice
1 16-ounce can no salt diced tomatoes and their juice
1 cup dark chili beer (see suggestions)
1 cup water
1 ¾ ounce good quality bittersweet chocolate 60 to 75 percent
cocoa, broken into pieces
2 pounds lean ground turkey breast
Suggested beers: Prairie Bomb Imperial Stout, Lips of Faith Cocoa Molé
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Spiced Chocolate Porter, Clown Shoes Chocolate Sombrero Stout
Directions:
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy soup pot
over medium high heat. Add the peppers, onions, garlic
and chipotle pepper and cook until veggies are soft,
stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat
to medium, add the chili powders, Chinese five spice,
salt, red pepper flakes, black pepper and bay leaves, and
stir constantly for about 1 to 1 ½ minutes to cook the
spices, being careful not to burn.
Add the tomatoes with their juices, the adobo sauce,
the beans, beer, water and the chocolate, and stir well
to melt the chocolate. Bring to a boil, then crumble the
raw ground turkey into the bubbling mixture. Stir to mix
in the turkey, breaking any large clumps into smaller
pieces. Bring the chili back to a boil, then reduce the
heat to simmer. Continue cooking at a low simmer for
about 35 minutes until the chili is nice and thick, stirring occasionally and breaking up any large tomato or
meat chunks with the back of the spoon. Remove the
bay leaves if using, taste and adjust the salt, if needed.
Chili Toppings
Cocoa Molé Crema
Makes 1 cup
A subtle, sweetly spiced crema with a hint of ancho
pepper.
Ingredients:
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup dark chili beer (see suggestions)
¼ teaspoon cocoa powder
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
Suggested beers: Cocoa Molé Spiced Chocolate Porter, Prairie Bomb
Imperial Stout, Ska Brewing Molé Stout.
Directions:
Stir or whisk all ingredients together in a small serving
bowl until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30
minutes to allow flavors to blend. Stir again and serve
drizzled or dolloped atop chili.
Chipotle Lime Crema
Makes 1 cup
A riff on the traditional crema, this one has some lovely
smoky flavor with a wee bit of heat.
Ingredients:
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup chipotle flavored beer such as The Mayan Chocolate
Chipotle Stout
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons minced chipotle pepper in adobo
Directions:
Stir or whisk all ingredients together in a small serving
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
39
bowl until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes
to allow flavors to blend. Stir again and serve drizzled or
dolloped atop chili
Serrano Guacamole
Makes about 4 cups
Ingredients:
4 medium Haas avocadoes, pitted and fruit scooped from the peel
1 clove of garlic, minced
¾ teaspoon Kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 cup roma tomato, seeds removed and diced
½ cup peeled and finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons serrano flavored beer (see suggestions)
1 teaspoon minced fresh serrano pepper, seeds and membrane
removed
Suggested Beers: Billy’s Chilies or Serrano Eye Patch IPA
Directions:
In a medium bowl, mash together the avocado, garlic,
lime juice and salt until well mixed, but still chunky.
Fold in the tomato, red onion, cilantro, beer and fresh
pepper until well combined. Taste and add more salt if
needed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30
minutes to allow flavors to blend. Place a spoonful atop
chili and serve the rest alongside with tortilla chips for
dipping.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Mango Habanero Salsa
Makes about 3 cups of salsa
Ingredients:
2 ripe mangoes, seed removed, peeled and diced
1 cup finely diced red onion
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons habanero-flavored beer.
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon (up to 1 teaspoon) minced fresh habanero pepper,
seeds and membrane removed (optional)
Suggested beer: Habanero Sculpin.
Directions:
Gently combine all ingredients in a medium-sized bowl.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to blend. Top your chili with a
spoonful.
All recipes copyright Betsy Burts, Bitsandbreadcrumbs.com
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
41
Siberian Soul Beer:
Beer From the Gelios Brewery
times, and people to hit the brewer’s
mark every time. However intangible, the “soul”
method of beer making seems to be
working. The Gelios Brewery produces 15 kinds of beer using natural
ingredients and modern technology
mixed with traditional brewing methods learned from Czech and German masters. The Russian brewery
proudly adheres to the Bavarian Purity Law defined by German brewer
Vilgelem IV in 1516. Popular brands
today include Moralavia, Cselke,
Bruderlich, and Prado beers brewed
from traditional European recipes
and pure water from the nearby
Bratsk reservoir, downriver from Lake
Baikal. Local beer drinkers also enjoy
several versions of Bratskoe light and
dark beers. Brewmaster Olga runs a tight ship at Gelios Brewery. (Credit: Steve Nelson)
By Steve Nelson
When asked what makes Gelios
Brewery beers special, Sales
Manager Anna Barannikova
does not hesitate to answer: “We
put our soul into them,” she
says with an easy smile. of Soviet communism, market capitalism and current international competition to consistently produce quality
beers. Today, the family-owned Gelios
in Bratsk, Russia serves up high-caliber
brews to grateful beer drinkers across
Siberia. “IT’S OUR PEOPLE”
Making good beer never hurts, but
Smirnov offers another perspective on
Gelios’ success. “It’s our people,” he
writes on the company website. “They
were there for me when it was tough.
And I will be there for them now.” Standing in front of a trophy case
packed with international beer awards,
Barannikova describes employee pride
in Gelios beers and their admiration
for General Director Vladimir Smirnov,
who has managed the brewery for
more than 45 years. Since founding the
brewery in 1968, Smirnov successfully
steered it through the changing times
Today the brewery employs about 500
people from this industrial town north
of the Irkutsk, most of them women.
Among those people, Olga (last name
unknown) serves as the brewmaster.
With 19 years of brewing experience,
Olga runs the tidy, well-managed factory from a high-tech office where she
commands ingredients, temperatures,
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
“A BETTER WAY, INSTEAD OF SOMEHOW”
The brewery uses the best natural ingredients purchased from international
suppliers. It selects three types of malt
seeds from Germany and the Czech
Republic and grows them in Russia. Whole hops come from Germany,
and yeast from Denmark. Brewers may
also add rice and sugar to make dark
and strong beers. Other ingredients
may include flavoring, heading agents,
and preservatives. The result is 15 light
and dark beers that have won many
prestigious international awards, including “Golden Palm” (Nice), “Golden
Mercury” (Amsterdam), “Knights of
Malta” (Malta), and the aptly named
“Large Golden Plate” (Tel Aviv). Beers
range in alcohol content from four to
five percent and include filtered and
unfiltered brands. Gelios has weathered several
challenges to the integrity of their
beer-making process. In Soviet times
about 4,800 breweries operated in
Russia. Today less than 200 remain.
Competition increased in the 1990s
with the appearance of large-scale,
internationally funded breweries
such as Baltika, but the quality of
Gelios beers sets them apart in the
Siberian marketplace and the small
brewery successfully competes
against larger companies. Still, the
beer climate can be frigid.
In 2010, Russian authorities imposed
a 30% tax increase meant to reduce
alcohol consumption. The new law
squeezed profits and challenged the
brewery to reduce costs and modify
brewing methods, but Smirnov and
his team held out and refused to
compromise the quality of the Gelios
brand. They resisted temptations to
use less expensive syrups and extracts and stayed true to a formula for
success: traditional methods with modern equipment. Gelios also bottles non-alcoholic beverages, or “Kvass”. Non-alcoholic is
typically considered anything under 1.2%. (Credit: Steve Nelson)
Smirnov also struggled against beer
counterfeiters who poured cheap
beers into Gelios kegs in attempts
to sell inferior products under false
labels. “We have always fought, and
are still fighting, for the quality of our
products,” he writes on the company
website. A company slogan captures
the Gelios brewing philosophy as “A
better way, instead of somehow.” MODERN EQUIPMENT,
TRADITIONAL
METHODS
This philosophy also extends to plant
equipment. The brewery buys the
latest technologies from the Czech
Republic, Denmark, and Italy to brew,
store, and package beers in bottles
and kegs. Gelios’ fully automated factory allows brewers to adjust produc-
A look into the eye of the tun. (Credit: Steve Nelson)
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
43
tion to meet market demands and stay nimble in a competitive marketplace.
The brewery produces about four million liters of beer each
year via brewing processes that take anywhere from 30 to
120 days. As a responsible corporate citizen, the brewery
disposes of starch by-products by feeding them to animals
on a company-owned farm near the factory. The company
also sponsors a nearby clinic for employees. Who says old
communists can’t learn new tricks? Customers purchase draft beer or “live beer” from local
shops equipped with kegs and taps. Draft beer sells for
about 100 rubles ($2) per liter and customers bring their
own jugs or containers to the shop. A 16-ounce bottle of
beer sells for about 50 rubles. In addition to their taste for
draft beer, Russians like to drink beer with smoked fish and
local shops also sell smoked salmon, perch, flounder or
other species. Other Russian beer-drinking traditions can
be summed up in the saying: “Beer without vodka is like
money to the wind.” With a successful formula that combines classic methods
with new technologies, the Gelios brewery nailed the sweet
spot among Siberian beer makers. Moreover, this proud
brewery in Bratsk serves as a reminder of how international
cooperation and shared expertise binds together a global
community of beer drinkers that appreciates quality beer
that’s brewed with soul. But for thirsty locals, the company motto sums it all up: “There will be peace in Bratsk,
if you just drink Bratsk beer.” So be sure to visit the Gelios
brewery next time you’re in Siberia. на здоровья! (To your
health!)
The trophy room boasts awards from across the globe.
(Credit: Steve Nelson)
The majority of workers at Gelios are female. Here, one
poses with a massive fermentation tank. (Credit: Steve
Nelson)
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
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46
| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
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www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
47
Beer Review
The highest scoring beers
from our expert panel of judges.
Meet our judges at BeerConnoisseur.com/judges
Judging Process
Our reviews are conducted in a single blind tasting format. This method provides the best opportunity to rely on facts
and to avoid favoritism, ensuring a level playing field for all brewers. It serves both the industry and the consumer to
have unbiased and objective scores from qualified experts. To best implement this approach, the Judges Review is open
to those with established experience as a Master Cicerone® from the Cicerone® Certification Program or as a judge that
has accomplished the rank of National or higher from the Beer Judge Certification Program. In the single blind tasting
format, judges are presented with a chilled, properly poured beer and given its style category. Scoring is then done on the
following basis using a 100-point scale:
Score Breakdown
100 to 96: World Class – You need this beer in your life.
95 to 91: Exceptional – Don’t hesitate.
90 to 86: Very Good – A brew to savor.
85 to 75: Average – Somewhat unimpressive.
74 and below: Not Recommended – Just walk away.
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| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Advertisement
96
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
40 / 40
Mocha Porter
Appearance:
5/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
by S.J. Klein
Rogue Ales & Spirits
Judge’s Notes
I smell a pleasant mix of resin and citrus
followed by a little orange citrus, biscuit malt,
and a touch of coconut/tropical fruit. I also
detect some underlying generic spice. The
flavor is fuller than the aroma suggests. I get
a lot of resin flavors, some citrus, and a firm,
bitter finish. There is more tropical fruit and
citrus in the flavor than in the nose. The malt
is highly restrained for both aroma and flavor.
The resin lingers in the long aftertaste. This
is a fairly dry Double IPA with a firm crisp
finish. It’s a pleasant beer, more balanced and
much more drinkable than many Double or
Imperial IPAs. A roasty, toasty, boasty beer. It
will keep you up... if it doesn’t knock you down
first! The coffee and chocolate are very well
balanced in this beer. They are here to support
the beer, not the other way around. It is surprisingly dry, neither more dry nor more astringent
than it should be, and it is rich, warming and
eminently drinkable. It has a lighter mouthfeel
than I would expect, but as a whole this is a
lovely brew. The additions of chocolate and
coffee are not gimmicks; they are balanced
elements of a well-crafted beer. I keep finding
myself comparing this beer to Rogue Chocolate
Stout, which I consider the gold standard for
chocolate in beer, and I think I would rather
drink this. It is not as sweet, it has a better balance, and it makes me want to drink another.
Truly a world-class beer.
96
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Hennepin
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
by Josh Weikert
Brewery Ommegang
Judge’s Notes
Some beers get it right right from the
jump, and Hennepin is squarely in that
category. From the first sniff to the last sip, it
embodies what we think of in a Saison, with
darn little to pick at.
It pours a beautiful gold with a rocky
white head and a light haze. The aroma is
rich with citrus (orange), passion fruit, a
moderate barny funk, and a grainy baseline
against which to field the different scents.
The flavor is reminiscent of the aroma,
but adds subtle notes of lemon, increased
breadiness, and notes of grains of paradise.
The finish is dry, as it should be, and the
barnyard note lingers in the aftertaste. You
Overall
Impression:
19 / 20
Overall
Impression:
19 / 20
can practically see the sun hitting the fields
and feel yourself sitting in the shade and leaning against the side of the barn as the French
sunshine fades into dusk. The flavor and
aroma really are that evocative. A nitpicky
drinker might call it a little too subtle, and
call its chimera of aromas and flavors too
complicated or muddled, but...well, in this
reviewer’s mind, they’re wrong.
This is a world-class example of its style
from a brewery that makes some of the best
Belgian-inspired beers in the world. Get it
now, and keep it on hand as an effervescent
and smooth-drinking reminder of what great
beer can be.
96
by James Link
Founders
Porter
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
39 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
19 / 20
Founders Brewing Co.
One of the better porters I have had the
pleasure of drinking. Well-crafted for ample
A rich roasted malt aroma assails the
consumption.
nostrils upon the initial pour. Hops are
pleasantly subdued to allow the dark malty
bouquet ever-present in this rendition to
manifest itself.
A medium tan head poured up nicely and
held over this ink black ale. Hops and roasted
grains marry well with the malt base to create
the proper balance of sweet to bitter without
exhibiting burnt grain harshness. A pleasant
touch of bitterness lends a light, tight dry
bite, which prevents a cloying sweet finish.
This is a full-bodied drinkable beer that runs
smoothly over the tongue and makes the
partaker desire yet another.
Judge’s Notes
96
by Josh Weikert
Barrel Aged
Old Ruffian
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
5/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
20 / 20
Great Divide Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes
Barleywines tend toward the extreme, and it’s a
wonderful treat to drink one that can do so without
sacrificing the ability to kill an entire bomber by oneself. I’m happy (tipsy?) to say that this one does, and
it is the kind of beer that restores the faith of sessionbeer lovers in high-gravity beer.
It pours a rich copper with slight haze and scant
head, and those superficial elements are really the
only area where the beer disappoints. You know how
a classic dopplebock has that come-hither look to it,
with its garnet jewel tones and rich foam? Nothing like
that here. But what it lacks in appearance it more than
makes up for in every other area.
The aroma is like velvet on the nose with graham
cracker, toffee, and an interesting blackberry note
(that I assume it picked up in the barrel). There’s a
hint of the alcohol impression to come, but there’s no
hint of a fusel burn. The flavor is likewise direct, rich,
and reminiscent of an English candy store, with a surprisingly dry finish and a beautiful caramel aftertaste
that hits after about 45 seconds of flavor development.
The barrel added mostly light, delicate notes that will
likely be different to every palate, but shows remarkable restraint given the 12 months of aging time.
Despite the rich aromas and flavors, this is an
easy-drinker. The body is medium at most, with a
pleasant moderate carbonation level and light tannic
structure. It never veers into the syrupy or slick, and
was a pleasure to drink.
Some might criticize it as being too “light” or suggest that it underperforms in an intense category, but
that’s what makes it such a pleasure. Just ask yourself
how long it’s been since you said, “Wow, let me have
another pint of that barrel-aged barleywine!” Never?
Well, now you can. A world-class beer.
95 by Richard Wong
Mad Hatter
New Holland Brewing Co.
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
a medium body and excellent mouthfeel. It
was smooth to the last drop, and had a nice
Very nice citrus and pine aromas spring
from the glass along with with subtle hints of clean finish in the palate. An enjoyable and
perfectly balanced American IPA.
wood. The beer suffered a bit of chill haze,
but was nevertheless a gorgeous light copper
color with good carbonation and small, tight
bubbles that left attractive lacing on the glass.
The flavor features prominent citrus and pine
resin from the heavy use of Cascade hops.
Sometimes, you can get an American IPA
that is not well-balanced -- either too much
alchohol or too many hops -- but with New
Holland’s revamped Mad Hatter, this was not
the case. Both alchohol and bittering hops
were extremely well balanced in this beer,
and the carbonation was right on, resulting in
Judge’s Notes
95 by Nelson Crowle
Full Sail ESB
Full Sail Brewing Co.
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Judge’s Notes
A nice big billowing head leaves some
lace, and the beer is a brilliantly clear medium amber that you can read a book through.
The malt aroma has several layers -- from
slightly grainy bread crusts and freshly baked
bread to some caramel notes and a smidge
of golden raisins. The malt flavor adds to all
of the aroma characteristics with some nutty
tones and a little bit of peanut-brittle toffee.
The hop aroma and flavor bring out floral
and earthy English notes with a background
piney aroma and a low grassy (dry-hopped?)
flavor, with a bit of herbal hoppiness too. Bittering is fairly high, but almost balanced by
the complexity of the malt character. Some
Overall
Impresion:
19 / 20
slight pomme fruitiness like a ripe pear appears mid-palate.
A tongue-tingling fairly high initial carbonation fades quickly to the traditional moderate carbonation. The finish is clean with moderate alcohol warmth. This is an elegant beer
to pair with English pasties (the food, not the
tassel!) smothered in spicy tomato sauce.
94 by Owen Ogletree
White Angel
Wicked Weed Brewing
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Overall
Impression:
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
19 / 20
One of the better porters I have had the
pleasure of drinking. Well-crafted for ample
A rich roasted malt aroma assails the
consumption.
nostrils upon the initial pour. Hops are
pleasantly subdued to allow the dark malty
bouquet ever-present in this rendition to
manifest itself.
A medium tan head poured up nicely and
held over this ink black ale. Hops and roasted
grains marry well with the malt base to create
the proper balance of sweet to bitter without
exhibiting burnt grain harshness. A pleasant
touch of bitterness lends a light, tight dry
bite, which prevents a cloying sweet finish.
This is a full-bodied drinkable beer that runs
smoothly over the tongue and makes the
partaker desire yet another.
Judge’s Notes
94 by Richard Wong
Hop Highway IPA
Belching Beaver Brewing Co.
Aroma:
24 / 24
Flavor:
37 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Judge’s Notes
A classic style that almost every brewery
makes. The aroma was very hoppy, with floral and
citrusy notes indicating the presence of Cascade
hops. The beer had a nice light straw color that was
a bit hazy. Head retention and carbonation was low.
An almost equal balance of malt and hops provided some very nice pine and citrus flavors. Most
American IPAs are aggressively hopped, sometimes
to an extreme level. This beer, however, meets the
criteria of an American IPA without overpowering
one’s senses. It was smooth, crisp and had a nice,
palate-cleansing finish.
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
94 by Nelson Crowle Grunion
Pale Ale
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Ballast Point Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes
This pale ale has a lot going on – in a good
way! It pours a beautiful, brilliantly clear deep
gold with a big, mousy light cream-colored
head. The aroma has lots of tropical fruit from
kiwi to mango and also a spicy grainy rye
breadiness. The first sip is piney and resinous
followed by some background citrus (lots of flavors – but they blend nicely). A very dry finish
is distinctly on the bitter side, accentuated by
the spicy black pepper and rye bread notes.
The beer is moderately carbonated with a
crisp fruity finish and just enough malty bread
backbone to present the yummy hops. There
is a slight alcohol note that pleasantly balances
the spicy rye.
This is a great overall experience to drink
by itself, or pair it with a juicy bacon cheeseburger and some sweet potato fries with honey.
94
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Palo Santo Marron
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
by Josh Weikert Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
Judge’s Notes
Subtlety isn’t this beer’s strong suit, which
is a great thing for big beer drinkers! The
opening salvo of aromatics includes a complex
blend of vanilla, toast, coffee, green wood, and
chocolate. Alcohols build as it warms and add
to the complexity.
The beer pours a dark mahogany, but it is
still (surprisingly) quite clear, with a low tan
head that is fairly persistent.
The flavor is intensely oaky and pleasantly
boozy (not hot, though). A rich cherry flavor
adds to those noted in the aroma, and the
moderate roast doesn’t quite hold up to the
sweetness imparted by the alcohol. The finish
is balanced with a tannic and oaky aftertaste.
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
The beer is a rich, syrupy, complex,
alcoholic punch in the palate. It can definitely
stand up to some aging, and would be a great
one to cellar for a few years. Like many great
wines, it’s a bit intense when fresh, and might
put some off, but there’s no doubt that this is
an outstanding beer and not for the faint of
heart.
93 by Michael Heniff
Pivo
Firestone Walker Brewing Co.
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Judge’s Notes
Pouring a beautiful, crystal-clear golden,
this ale firmly holds a tall white stand of
foam. The aroma highlights traditional spicy
and herbal noble hops but with a slight
hint of a citrus character. Light bready malt
complements the hop aroma with an extremely clean fermentation that avoids showing
any fruity esters. Again, moderate spicy and
herbal hops are at the forefront of the flavor
above the supporting bready malt. The finish
is bitter, crisp and clean with light spicy and
herbal hops and, once again, a hint of citrus.
Very clean and extremely well brewed.
93 by Joseph Formanek
Hop’lin IPA
Southbound Brewing Co.
Aroma:
24 / 24
Flavor:
37 / 40
Appearance:
5/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Judge’s Notes
Southbound Brewing Company’s
Hop’lin IPA is a very well-crafted, balanced
IPA that delivers the goods. This slightly
hazy golden-colored brew with a solid lacy
head has an absolutely fantastic aroma. An
amazing marriage of fresh citrus, woody
and dank hop characters deliver a very
strong invitation to continue the tasting of
this brew. The complexity of the hop aroma
is carried through into the flavor, with
citrus, woody and resiny hop flavor notes
and moderate bitterness pairing well with
the slightly caramelly malt backbone. The
fermentation character is quite clean with a
few esters exhibited, leaving the hop char-
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
acter to remain front and center. The body
is medium-light to medium, delivering just
the right amount of sweetness in the finish
to complement the lingering hop flavor and
bitterness in order to prepare you for the
next delicious sip.
93 by Susan Ruud
Dale’s Pale Ale
Oskar Blues Brewery
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
37 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Judge’s Notes
A very nice version of the style that
pours a lovely amber, copper color with a
huge cream-colored head and fine bubbles
that last forever. There is a big citrusy floral
hop aroma with hints of toasty caramel malts
and pleasant pear and apricot-like fermentation esters that all follow through into the flavor as well. The finish is punctuated by hop
bitterness, yet there is plenty of malt present
to back it up -- giving just a slightly sweeter
finish than many pale ales. A very pleasant
and enjoyable beer.
93 by Mike Castagno
Double Platinum
Starr Hill Brewery
Aroma:
23 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
8 / 10
Judge’s Notes
Subtlety isn’t this beer’s strong suit, which
is a great thing for big beer drinkers! The
opening salvo of aromatics includes a complex
blend of vanilla, toast, coffee, green wood, and
chocolate. Alcohols build as it warms and add
to the complexity.
The beer pours a dark mahogany, but it is
still (surprisingly) quite clear, with a low tan
head that is fairly persistent.
The flavor is intensely oaky and pleasantly
boozy (not hot, though). A rich cherry flavor
adds to those noted in the aroma, and the
moderate roast doesn’t quite hold up to the
sweetness imparted by the alcohol. The finish
is balanced with a tannic and oaky aftertaste.
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
The beer is a rich, syrupy, complex,
alcoholic punch in the palate. It can definitely
stand up to some aging, and would be a great
one to cellar for a few years. Like many great
wines, it’s a bit intense when fresh, and might
put some off, but there’s no doubt that this is
an outstanding beer and not for the faint of
heart.
93 by Richard Wong
Dragon’s Milk
New Holland Brewing Co.
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
38 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
resulting in a nice, mellow, smooth burn
that gives it a wide spectrum of aromas and
flavors. Overall, this is a balanced Imperial
Stout with a smooth mouthfeel and a sweet
alcoholic burn in the finish.
Judge’s Notes
The first thing you get from the aroma is
a wonderful bourbon barrel scent of vanilla
and wood finished with nice malt sweetness.
I didn’t get any hop or roasted malt aromas in
the nose, possibly because they were overwhelmed by the bourbon barrel a bit. The
beer was pitch black with nice carbonation
as tiny tight bubbles left lacing that lingered
on the glass. The beer was well balanced
between the roasted malts and bittering hops
and they complemented one another nicely.
The flavor of the beer had a very nice winelike sweetness with hints of raisins and dark
chocolate. The alchohol (from the bourbon
barrels) was definitely present in this beer,
92 by Nelson Crowle
Angel City IPA
Angel City Brewery
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
37 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Judge’s Notes
This beer pours a beautiful deep gold
with a huge fluffy ivory head that hangs
around for a long time and leaves rings
of lace on the sides of the glass. A background malt aroma of fresh baked bread
and bread crusts supports a substantial
tropical fruit hop presence in the aroma
with a bit of tangerine citrusy character and
just a slight hint of cotton candy.
The flavor holds up the high expectations of the aroma with bread crusts and a
smidge of toastiness, all supporting big piney and resiny hop flavors as well as tropical
fruits and gooseberry – a fairly complex yet
balanced hop flavor profile.
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Loads of bitterness linger into a very
dry but not too minerally finish – this beer
is crisp and clean.
Pair this beer with anything off the grill
or a medium-rare prime rib. The moderately high carbonation and bitterness both
help with washing away the fat of the prime
rib and cleansing your palate for that next
juicy bite.
92 by Michael Heniff
Golden Road
Hefeweizen
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
36 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Golden Road Brewing
Judge’s Notes
This Hefeweizen is very true to style -- highlighting the classical flavors of esters, phenolics, and malted wheat while restraining hops
throughout. The aroma begins with a nearly
even balance of medium-light bubblegum ester,
clove phenolic, and bready wheat. Sporting a
typical Hefeweizen haze, this golden beer holds
a long-lasting, mousse-like white head. The
flavor of the beer holds a similar balance to the
aroma, with moderate bready and grainy wheat,
bubblegum esters with a hint of banana, and
clove phenolics. The beer finishes with a light
bitterness, a lingering bready malt, and clove
phenolics. Again, this beer has all of the classic
elements of a Hefeweizen in perfect harmony.
92 by Randy Scorby
Anchor Steam Beer
Anchor Brewing Co.
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
36 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Judge’s Notes
This beer starts with a lightly rich bready
malt character that gives way to light toast and
caramel as it warms and opens up. As the malt
settles down, a woody, earthy hop aroma and
light fresh apple ester offer a complementary
balance. The flavor also does not disappoint.
The bready, toasty and caramel malt sweetness is balanced by woody hops and a prominent hop bitterness that lingers into a crisp
and dry finish. The breadiness from the malt
lingers gently into the aftertaste. This beer
pours an inviting copper color with an orange
hue that pulls you into the glass.
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
92 by Randy Scorby
Ruination 2.0
Stone Brewing Co.
Aroma:
22 / 24
Flavor:
36 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
10 / 10
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
Judge’s Notes
The drinker is greeted with a strong, fresh
and bright grapefruit citrus hop aroma with an
underlying floral alcohol character. The grapefruit hop character continues into the flavor and
is balanced by a light bready maltiness and a
suggestion of caramel malt. The high hop bitterness jumps in mid-palate and lingers into the
dry finish without going over the top -- as some
examples of this style have a tendency to do.
The moderate alcohol warming helps to offer
a little complexity to this hop-dominated beer.
The beer pours a medium amber color with a
slight orange hue and a thick, creamy head that
lasts forever. A very enjoyable Double IPA to
please the hop head in all of us.
91 by Jim Koebel
Zombie Dust
3 Floyds Brewing Co.
Aroma:
21 / 24
Flavor:
37 / 40
Appearance:
6/6
Mouthfeel:
9 / 10
Judge’s Notes
This American Pale Ale opens with
pine, grass, and dank hop aromas, which
dissipate fairly quickly. Assertive fruity
aromas follow, including citrus and pear. It
pours a hazy, deep gold color with a tall,
white head that lasts until the final sip.
This beer’s flavor is fruity and juicy with a
note of pine. It has moderately high bitterness and a smooth finish that is both malty
and bitter. The hop flavors grow fruitier
as it warms. There is a substantial clean,
sweet malt backbone that makes this beer
very close to evenly balanced between
malt and hops. Still, it comes off as clearly
American rather than English in overall
Overall
Impression:
18 / 20
balance. A substantial example of the style,
this APA is one to savor.
Beer Review
Very Good (86-90)
90 | Odyssey Hive, Arcade Brewery by Jason Johnson
90 | Brooklyn Lager, Brooklyn Brewery by Josh Weikert
90 | Citra Bend, Golden Road Brewing by Michael Heniff
90 | Grand Cru, Brouwerij Rodenbach by Garrick Van Buren
90 | The Pit & The Pendulum, Sweetwater Brewing Co. by Owen Ogletree
90 | Curieux, Allagash Brewing Co. by Jim Koebel
89 | Wood Aged Kilt Lifter, The Pike Brewing Co. by Jason Johnson
89 | Go To IPA, Stone Brewing Co. by Randy Scorby
89 | Departed Spirit, Three Taverns Craft Brewery by Owen Ogletree
89 | Yeti Imperial Stout, Great Divide Brewing Co. by Josh Weikert
88 | Shiner Black, Spoetzl Brewing Co. by Michael Bury
88 | Wisconsin Belgian Red, New Glarus Brewing Co. by Garrick Van Buren
88 | Locale Skagit Valley Alba, The Pike Brewing Co. by Jason Johnson
88 | Road Jam, Two Roads Brewing Co. by Rodney A. Tillinghast
88 | Surette Provision Saison, Crooked Stave Brewery by Michael Heniff
88 | Fishwater Double IPA, Telluride Brewing Co. by Owen Ogletree
87 | Whale›s Tale Pale Ale, Cisco Brewers by Jason Johnson
87 | Casual Session IPA, Red Brick Brewing Co. by Jim Koebel
87 | Bière De Mars, Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales by Sean Coughlin
87 | Honeyspot Road White IPA, Two Roads Brewing Co. by Rodney A. Tillinghast
87 | Session Cream Summer Ale, Full Sail Brewing Co. by Neslon Crowle
86 | The Love, Starr Hill Brewery by Mike Castagno
86 | BoomBox, Hilliard’s Beer by Rick Franckhauser
86 | Peanut Butter Milk Stout, Belching Beaver Brewing Co. by Richard Wong
86 | The SheRIff of Rock RIdge, Newport Storm Brewery by Pete Garofalo
86 | White Oak Aged Jai Alai, Cigar City Brewing by Mike Castagno
86 | Hop Savant, Crooked Stave Brewery by Michael Heniff
86 | Plum Island Belgian White, Newburyport Brewing Co. by Rodney A. Tillinghast
60
| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Beer Review
Average (75-85)
85 | Three Philosophers, Brewery Ommegang by Josh Weikert
84 | #9, Magic Hat Brewing Co. by Michael Bury
84 | Double Liberty IPA, Anchor Brewing Co. by Randy Scorby
83 | Hell’s Belle, Big Boss Brewing Co. by Pete Garofalo
82 | Rodenbach Classic, Brouwerij Rodenbach by Garrick Van Buren
81 | Hilliard’s Saison, Hilliard’s Beer by Rick Franckhauser
81 | Newburyport Pale Ale, Newburyport Brewing Co. by Rodney A. Tillinghast
80 | Laughing Skull, Red Brick Brewing Co. by Jim Koebel
79 | Champagne Velvet, Upland Brewing Co. by Mike Castagno
78 | Serendipity, New Glarus Brewing Co. by Garrick Van Buren
78 | Shiner Bock, Spoetzl Brewing Co. by Michael Bury
75 | Green Man IPA, Green Man Brewery by Pete Garofalo
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
61
Brewer Q & A – Fall 2015
For beers that receive a score of “Excellent” or above (91+), we’ve asked the brewer a few
questions regarding that beer’s origins.
96 Rating – Mocha Porter – Rogue Ales and Spirits
Responses from Rogue brewmaster John Maier.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
John: I did. I wanted to make a robust Porter
that wasn’t a brown Porter. 25 years ago the
great porters were Anchor Porter, Samuel Smith’s
Taddy Porter and Sierra Nevada Porter. The
funny thing is that I messed up on the recipe
for probably about five years before I got it to
where it is today, which happened purely by
happenstance. We received a pallet of chocolate
malt that we were milling when we discovered
that a couple odd bags that were in the mix got
milled up by mistake, so I decided to brew with
the new ‘blend,’ and it was just what I was aiming
for after all those years of trial and error! The
recipe has remained the same for the last 20 years.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer
(flavor, aroma, etc.)?
John: The surprisingly light and refreshing taste. BC: Where does this beer’s name came
from?
John: Originally named New Porter, after the
town of Newport where Rogue’s brewery is
located, and also because it was a new style of
Porter. It was later renamed to better describe the
product: Mocha Porter for its ruddy brown color.
Rogue Ales brewmaster John Maier
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words
or less?
John: Ruddy brown, bittersweet balance of malt & hops, light cream finish. 62
| The Beer Connoisseur® – Fall 2015, Issue 20
Brewer Q & A
96 Rating – Brewery
Ommegang – Hennepin
Responses from Ommegang brewmaster Phil Leinhart.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Phil: I’m not sure, but I’d guess it was Bert DeWit [Belgian
brewer at Affligem] and/or Don Feinberg [Brewery Ommegang
founder].
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc.)? Phil: Its crisp finish.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from? Phil: This beer is named after Father Hennepin, the Belgian
Missionary. He was supposedly the first European to see
Niagara Falls.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Ommegang brewmaster Phil Leinhart
Phil: It’s definitely one of them!
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Phil: Bright, crisp, slightly fruity, digestible, moreish.
95 Rating – Full Sail Brewing Co. – Full Sail ESB Responses from Full Sail brewer Barney
Brennan.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s
recipe? Barney: This was a Full Sail brewing team
collaboration.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of
this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? Barney: The unique hop aroma and flavor
from the exclusive use of Challenger hops.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came
from? Barney: Our Northwest style coupled with a
respect for tradition.
Full Sail brewer Barney Brennan
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
63
Brewer Q & A
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Barney: I could drink this one forever in Hood River, [Oregon, Full Sail›s hometown] but for the tropics I would
choose Full Sail Pilsner.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Barney: Complex malt flavors balanced with spicy, earthy hops -- deliciously drinkable.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer? Barney: This beer was born from our brewing team’s annual visit to the hop fields to select ingredients from
the new harvest. The Challenger hops were not on our shopping list, but they were so fantastic we had to buy
some and build a beer around them. Though it was originally a pub-only release, it was so well received that we
decided to keep it going and share it with our friends nationwide.
94 Rating – Wicked Weed Brewing – White Angel
Responses from Wicked Weed owner and “head blender” Walt
Dickinson.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
Walt: I did. Remember, Luke [Dickinson, Walt›s brother
and Wicked Weed co-brewmaster] hates sour beer. ;-)
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc.)?
Walt: Growing up in the South, I have always been enamored
with our wild grapes. There is a Belgian Geuze flavor
that I always associate with Muscadine grapes, so for me,
naturally, it was an ingredient that I wanted to work with at
some point. There is a wildness and rustic flavor to this local
grape that fits so beautifully with the pastoral character of
Brettanomyces. This beer has three pounds of grapes per
gallon, so the grape character of the beer is almost wine-like. BC: Where does this beer’s name came from?
Walt: Black Angel, our Bourbon Barrel-Aged Black Sour with
Michigan tart cherries, was the first Angel and the second
Wicked Weed owner Walt Dickinson
sour beer we ever made at Wicked Weed. It quickly became,
and still is, one of the most sought after beers we produce.
After its success, I was inspired to create more Angels that
used color as an inspiration. White Angel is 1 of 4 we have
released this year -- it represents the white muscadine grape. The others are Red Angel with raspberries, Golden
Angel with apricots, and the yet-to-be-released Angel of Darkness with… well, I would tell you what’s in it, but
then I’d have to kill you.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?”
Walt: No. This beer is really complex with tons of acid and fruit character, and it’s crafted to be savored in
special moments. If I drank it every day it would ruin the beer for me. My desert island beer would be a beer
from Brasserie De La Senne called Tarass Boulba.
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Brewer Q & A
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Walt: Muscadine, Tart, Muscadine, Lemon Pith, Muscadine, Old Hay, Muscadine, Plum Skin… I think that was
actually 11, so you can omit one Muscadine.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer?
Walt: Just the fantasy that our brand manager Erin Jones wrote for the label: “The great Nor’ester lashed its white
fury across the barren, blinding hinterland. Polar isolation drove deep into the desolate hearts of the clansmen.
From the faith for a night without desperate cold, the White Angel was manifest. His stealth and clandestine canter
silenced the stinging winds. Stillness settled across the boreal nighttime, metered only by the pulse of the Great
Lights. Warmth displaced cold, tempest turned to peace, and kinship overcame obscurity.”
94 Rating – Belching Beaver Brewing Co. – Hop Highway IPA
Responses from Belching Beaver head brewer Troy Smith.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Troy: Troy Smith, Belching Beaver’s master brewer. BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc)? Troy: My favorite aspect of this beer is the
drinkability. There’s no lingering bitterness, and it’s a very
well-balanced beer with amazing aromas. The hops that
impart the flavors and aromas come from around the world
(USA, New Zealand and Austria). BC: Where does this beer’s name came from? Troy: Our Brewery is off Highway 78, which passes between
the I5 and the 15. 10 breweries are located along this
highway, one of which if the largest brewery in San Diego. We
called this beer Hop Highway because this highway is home
to tons of great, hoppy beers.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Troy: Sadly not. It used to be my desert island beer, but
now our Great Lei IPA has become that, since it’s brewed
with coconut and pineapple, the perfect combination for a
deserted tropical island. Belching Beaver head brewer Troy Smith
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Troy: Highly drinkable beer with dank hops that goes down
easy. Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer? Troy: Hop Highway IPA was the definitive beer that made me realize the quality of craft beer in cans. I’ve come
to know our beers intimately over the past three years, and trying this brew out of our first run of cans just
blew my mind. It was crisp, dank, refreshing and extremely full-flavored. The fact that we rolled out in time for
Memorial Day pool parties and BBQs was huge. I got to float and sip all day long in the sun with these cans, and
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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Brewer Q & A
I couldn’t have been happier about that. 93 Rating – Firestone Walker Brewing Co. – Pivo
Responses from Firestone Walker brewmaster Matt Brynildson.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Matt: The basic recipe outline
(malt, hops, yeast) is pretty basic
stuff that any brewer can do. The
most important piece is creating
and capturing the spirit of the beer,
which in this case is a floral and
spicy dry hopped beer inspired
by my travels in Germany, Czech
Republic and, oddly enough, Italy.
The true inspiration for this beer is a
Pilsner beer produced by a beautiful
little brewery in the Lake Como /
Lombardy region of Italy – Birrificio
Italiano›s Tipopils. Our brewing team
has worked hard to build and hone
a pilsner brewing process, including
a dry hopping step, which captures
that spirit – this is very different
from brewing the ales that we›re
most known for. I come up with the
concepts and the Firestone Walker
brewing team makes the real magic.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect
of this beer (flavor, aroma,
etc.)? Matt: We have worked hard to create
a beer that is crisp, dry, clean and
highly drinkable (how many times
have you heard that before?), but
Firestone Walker brewmaster Matt Brynildson
the fun part is that we layer in the
hops to create something that is
aromatically interesting and enticing.
The hops that we choose and the
way we apply them make this beer an interesting drinking partner and an excellent all-purpose beer. I believe it
is the perfect beer to start a beer-drinking session and a perfect way to end one as well.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from? Matt: Pivo means beer in Czech and this is the birth place of the style. Garrett Oliver says in his book, The
Brewmaster’s Table: “Pilsner, the world’s most popular style of beer, was invented in Czech Bohemia, perfected
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Brewer Q & A
in Germany and turned into flavorless mass-marketed fizz in America.” Giving this beer the name Pivo was all
about hitting the reset button for pilsners, returning this style to its roots, and presenting it to American beer
lovers who may have lost hope in the pilsner style.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer? Matt: Yes, it would work well in that situation.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Matt: A beautiful journey back to the roots of pilsner brewing.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer? Matt: The story I like to tell is that this beer was not inspired by a German or Czech brewer but by a passionate
and amazing Italian brewer named Agostino Arioli, who has had a major role in creating a craft beer revolution
in Italy. His Tipopils is the beer that I was dreaming about when Pivo was created. His passion for the style,
his love of hops and his amazing ability to put flavors together are all exemplified in Tipopils. I have had the
opportunity to taste this beer with Agostino at the source, participate in his Pils Pride festival held each year in
his home town and even brew a collaboration beer with him recently. It’s brewers like Agostino who inspire me
to keep brewing and it’s people like Ago who are the real role models that this movement should be watching
and learning from.
93 Rating – Southbound Brewing
Co. – Hop’lin IPA
Responses from Southbound brewmaster Smith Mathews.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Smith: Smith Mathews, Brewmaster/Managing Partner at
Southbound.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc.)? Smith: I really love the balance of this beer. The caramel and
Munich malts combined with the citrusy, piney aromas and
flavors of the hops meet in an awesome equilibrium, making
it a very approachable IPA. It’s an IPA that both craft beer
newcomers and seasoned cicerones can appreciate. BC: Where does this beer’s name came from? Smith: Its a musical reference and an homage to singer/
songwriter Janis Joplin. Her music and life were part of the
inspiration for making this beer. BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Southbound Brewmaster Smith Mathews
Smith: If I were stranded on a desert island, this is likely to
be the only beer in my cooler. Let’s be honest -- I won’t be on
an island without my cooler, so yes, I guess it would be my
desert island beer! www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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Brewer Q & A
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Smith: Smooth, medium-bodied IPA with an incredible balance of malt and hops. Was that 11? After having one
Hop’lin, nobody is focused on that 11th word -- so it’s OK. BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer? Smith: I have more than a few stories involving this beer. My favorite would be the good times I’ve shared
with best friends at music festivals, all of us drinking this great beer. We’ll leave the specifics out -- if that’s
cool with you.
93 Rating – Oskar Blues Brewery – Dale’s Pale Ale
Responses from Oskar Blues head brewer Tim Matthews.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Tim: This one goes back in time, as it started from an old
homebrew recipe of Dale’s but has evolved over the years for
sure.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc.)? Tim: The aroma and flavor are an incredible marriage
between the candy sweetness from English crystal malts and a
resinous, spicy hop character.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from? Tim: Dale [Katechis] is the owner and founder of Oskar Blues.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Tim: You bet!
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Tim: A candy-covered, citrusy, piney, semi-sweet and solid
brew.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story
-- that revolves around this beer? Tim: Every time we crack open a box of Centennial Hops or
receive a fresh malt shipment, the aroma triggers an image
of that Dale’s Pale Ale can in our mind. All those bike
rides, hikes, water adventures, and ski trips where we
drank that beer come to mind immediately and vividly. We
get transported by the aroma and the taste because this brew
is so well-integrated into our lives inside and outside the brewery.
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Oskar Blues head brewer Tim Matthews
Brewer Q & A
92 Rating – Golden Road
Brewing – Golden Road
Hefeweizen
Responses from Golden Road co-founder Tony Yanow.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
Tony: The Golden Road brewing team worked together
to make the recipe what it is. BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer
(flavor, aroma, etc.)?
Tony: While not a typical hefeweizen, I love the ease
with which it drinks. It seems to go down easy -- maybe
a little too easy sometimes!
Golden Road co-founder Tony Yanow
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from?
Tony: Hefe means yeast. Weizen means wheat. We don›t
call it yeast wheat as that name doesn›t sound so great,
but the term Hefeweizen has been in use for more than 1000 years, so we decided to stick with that.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?”
Tony: Not for me. I like it, but I’m more of an IPA guy.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Tony: A Southern California spin on an age-old, traditional style.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer?
Tony: Meg Gill (the other co-founder of Golden Road Brewing) and I fell in love with the style when we went to
Germany to source our brew system. We drank the Weissbier at the St. Augustiner beer garden in Munich and at
Weihenstephan Brewery in Freisen where they have made
this style for over 1000 years.
92 Rating – Anchor Brewing
Co. – Anchor Steam Beer
Responses from Anchor Brewing head brewmaster Mark
Carpenter.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
Mark: The recipe goes way back to pre-prohibition times,
but Fritz [Maytag, founder of Anchor Brewing] added the
Northern Brewer hops, which weren’t around when the
first steam beers were created. The brewery did fall on
some hard times in its early days and they were forced to
use sugar instead of malt, but that hasn’t been the case for
Anchor Brewing head brewmaster Mark
Carpenter
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Brewer Q & A
years. The recipe has been the same since I got here in 1971!
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)?
Mark: When I started at Anchor, Steam Beer was the only beer that the brewery made – for good reason. It’s just
a classic beer – well-balanced with a nice, smooth hoppiness. Steam Beer used to be thought of as very hoppy,
but now it’s pretty middle-of-the-road.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from?
Mark: The term “steam beer” goes way back to the Gold Rush era. The name is quite notable, as first you might
think, “Why would you want to combine steam and beer?” Before the Gold Rush began in California there was
no beer, only wine. Northern European miners came and wanted their national beverage so they started brewing
it themselves using old-world techniques from their home countries. They threw in a few standard German
lagering techniques, and when it was brewed, so much steam was given off that people wondered what they
were doing. Of course, the concept of steam was rather new back then, as steam trains had just been invented,
so steam beer was quite a novel concept as well.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?”
Mark: Yes, Anchor Steam Beer is definitely my desert island beer, but let’s be honest; if we were on a desert
island and some beer washed onshore, we would drink it no matter what it was!
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Mark: Simply one of the world’s greatest beers.
91 Rating – 3 Floyds Brewing
Co. – Zombie Dust
Responses from Three Floyds head brewer Chris Boggess.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe?
Chris: I did.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor,
aroma, etc.)?
Chris: I like Zombie Dust’s drinkability. For a relatively hoppy
beer, you can easily have more than one.
BC: Where does this beer’s name came from?
Chris: It was inspired by a Mötley Crüe song called «The
Dirt.» I recommend it highly!
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?”
Chris: No, there are other beers I like just as much. I would
think I’d be doing things a little differently on a desert island; I
would definitely want a handful of different beers!
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Chris: An intensely hopped, gushing, undead pale ale.
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Three Floyds head brewer Chris Boggess
Brewer Q & A
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer?
Chris: Zombie Dust started out as a test brew served exclusiely in our pub. It was originally called
Cenotaph.
91 Rating – Boulevard Brewing Co. – Unfiltered Wheat Beer
Responses from Boulevard brewmaster Steven Pauwels.
BC: Who came up with this
beer’s recipe?
Steven: Boulevard’s founder,
John McDonald, was certainly
instrumental in the first recipe of our
Wheat Beer. Our brewing team has
tweaked the recipe over the years,
most dramatically in June 1994 when
they took out some of the filtration
components of the beer, making it
truly “Unfiltered.”
BC: What’s your favorite aspect
of this beer (flavor, aroma,
etc.)?
Steven: Unfiltered Wheat Beer is a
relief in a craft beer world dominated
by hops. The combination of the
citrus, apple and grainy wheat
notes play nicely together without
Boulevard brewmaster Steven Pauwels
overwhelming each other. It’s a beer
you could try to dissect but you
shouldn’t. Just enjoy it because the
first sip will always lead to another one, and another one, and another...
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?”
Steven: As a brewer I would go for more complexity, but I know Unfiltered Wheat Beer is the “desert island
beer” for a lot of people in the Midwest
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less?
Steven: Lively, refreshing, natural, citrusy, flavorful ale with distinctive cloudy appearance.
BC: Do you know a story -- or have a personal story -- that revolves around this beer?
Steven: We only had Unfiltered Wheat Beer available on draft for the longest time because we hadn’t figured out
how to keep the beer cloudy in the bottle. Right after I started at Boulevard, we installed a centrifuge that allowed
us to bottle Unfiltered Wheat Beer. I was super excited when we had the first beer ready, only to find out that we
didn’t have any packaging for it. So we packaged it in ‘filtered wheat beer’ packaging and put on a big sticker that
said ‘New: Unfiltered Wheat Beer.› One of those stickers is still on the mirror in the bathroom next to my office to
remind me about communicating with marketing before I want to make big changes to flagship beers! www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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FALL SEASONALS
Pumpkin Beers
He Said 21st Amendment Brewery / Elysian Brewing Co.
San Francisco, CA / Seattle, WA
--Comes in porter and tripel.
Pumpkin Ale
Alaskan Brewing Co.
Juneau, AK
--11 lbs. of pumpkin per barrel.
Pinchy Jeek Barl
Anderson Valley Brewing Co.
Boonville, CA
- - - You don’t have to speak Boontling to enjoy this
beer!
Pumpkin Beast
Aviator Brewing Co.
Fuquay Varina, NC
--A beast from the yeast.
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FALL SEASONALS
Cold Blooded Pumpkin Ale
Avondale Brewing Co.
Birmingham, AL
--Best chilled in cold blood.
Post Road Pumpkin Ale
Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
--New packaging; same smoothly spiced taste.
Rating: 85
Headless Heron
Central Waters Brewing Co.
Amherst, WI
--Ichabod Crane’s #1 competition.
Good Gourd
Cigar City Brewing
Tampa, FL
--Imperial at 8.5% ABV.
Rating: 88
Age Old Pumpkin Crooked Letter Brewing Co.
Ocean Springs, MS
--Despite all my rage I am still just a pumpkin with
age.
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FALL SEASONALS
Punkin Ale
Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
Milton, DE
--Named for Punkin Chunkin. Punkuccino
Elysian Brewing Co.
Seattle, WA
--“For the world-weary Barista.”
The Gourd Standard
Flying Dog Brewing Co.
Frederick, MD
--“Suddenly, it feels like a seance.”
Farmhouse Pumpkin
Hardywood Brewing Co.
Richmond, VA
- - - Pumpkin is the reason for the saison.
The Great’er Pumpkin
Heavy Seas Beer
Halethorpe, MD
--Vince Guaraldi’s beer of choice.
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FALL SEASONALS
Squashed
Mother’s Brewing Co.
Springfield, MO
--Quaff a Squashed while you nosh.
Pumpkick
New Belgium Brewing Co.
Fort Collins
--A cranberry, lemongrass kick.
Ichabod
New Holland Brewing Co.
Holland, MI
--It’s O.K. to lose your head over this one…
Rogue Farms Pumpkin Patch Ale
Rogue Ales & Spirits
Ashland, OR
--Only Rogue’s ingredients, no beard yeast.
Warlock
Southern Tier Brewing
Lakewood, NY
--Counterpoint to Pumking.
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FALL SEASONALS
Pumpkinator
Saint Arnold Brewing
Houston, TX
--Dark with molasses, black malt.
Old Towne Pumpkin Ale
Straight To Ale Brewing Co.
Huntsville, AL
--Atticus Finch could have used a few.
Pumpkinfest
Terrapin Beer Co.
Athens, GA
--Now in cans. “Pump-can-fest”.
Master of Pumpkins
Tröegs Brewing Co.
Hershey, PA
--Lars Ulrich’s go-to beer.
Xibalba
Wicked Weed Brewing
Asheville, NC
--Cocoa nibs, three chili peppers.
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Oktoberfest/Märzen
Dead Ringer Ballast Point Brewing Co.
San Diego, CA
--Look for the dancing skeleton.
Dragonhosen Imperial Oktoberfest
Boulder Beer
Boulder, CO
--Firebreathers welcome.
Bob’s 47 Oktoberfest
Boulevard Brewing Co.
Kansas City, MO
--Slightly tart, quenching finish.
Rating: 91
Mad Bishop
DuClaw Brewing Co.
Baltimore, MD
--Rounded and toasty.
Rating: 90
FALL SEASONALS
Oaktoberfest Firestone Walker Brewing Co.
Paso Robles, CA
--It’s more than Oak-ay.
Clawhammer Oktoberfest
Highland Brewing Co.
Asheville, NC
--Drop the Clawhammer with this malty brew.
Rating: 78
Oktoberfest Hofbräu München
München, Germany
--Relatively pale, sweet.
Oktoberfest Märzen Lager
Left Hand Brewing Co.
Longmont, CO
--Try with schnitzel.
Oktoberfest
Revolution Brewing Co.
Chicago, IL
--Pairs well with polka dancing.
Rating: 80
Oktoberfest
Spaten-Franziskaner-Bräu
München, Germany
--The oldest version of this style.
Rating: 87
Oktoberfest
The Ft. Collins Brewery
Fort Collins, CO
--All German malt, hops.
Oktoberfest
Upland Brewing Co.
Bloomington, IN
--Munich’s specialty in the heart of Indiana.
Rating: 88
Oktoberfest Märzen
Paulaner Brauerei
Munich, Germany
--On the slightly darker side. Rating: 86
www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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Book Review
By Jim Dykstra
Mountain Brew:
A High Spirited Guide to Country-Style
Beer Making
by Tim Matson and Lee Anne Dorr
The Countryman Press, Softcover,
$10.95, 123 pp.
Whether it’s a decade-old cellared Bigfoot or a
freshly bottled homebrew, the thrill of a longawaited brew fulfilled is what keeps many coming
back to quality beer.
With its rustic, homespun charm, Mountain
Brew is closer to the latter, but reflects both in a
successful bottling, aging and uncorking of the
timeless joy of beer. Originally cobbled together
in the seventies by a duo of Vermonters, it is part
folklore and part beer-from-scratch cookbook.
At the time of Mountain Brew’s conception homebrewing was still outlawed, and
though it didn’t take an Odyssey to gather
ingredients for an ale, the retail homebrewing
environment was a far cry from today’s explosion of suppliers. Hops came mixed into Blue
Ribbon liquid malt extract (yes, that Blue Ribbon), which was sold as a “cooking ingredient”
at local groceries. That, or you could gather
hops wild, as one of the locals maintained
was ideal. Some cleaned their equipment with
bleach, some with standard sanitizer, and others used hot soap and water. One of the authors still does. Mirroring the movement it helped inspire, the
book has come a long way. No longer a hodgepodge of recipes stapled together with cover art
by a nine year old, Mountain Brew has added
new recipes, binding, and a lengthy foreword
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from Tim Matson, taking a poignant look back at
the original text, which remains preserved within.
And deservedly so.
Even after a polish, the book is still a tad rough,
but that makes it better. It’s not written with the
glamour that Michael Jackson could give to beer,
but the fresh air, clean water and unadulterated
joy of pure creation bubbling off the pages makes
for a very visceral read. These were people living in a different time,
but doing the exact things that make us glad
to be alive. They were able to package it up
and share it with others, and though it may not
always be technically sound, Mountain Brew is
perfectly human.
Product Review
By Chris Guest
DrinkTanks Classic
Growler
Sometimes, you just want more beer. Though
beer packaging comes in all shapes and sizes – from tiny 8.4-ounce “nip” cans to burly
22-ounce bombers, the fact is there’s always room
for more.
The keg cap system couldn’t have been easier
to install. The growler comes equipped with a
list of five easy-to-follow instructions that outline
everything you need to do in order to make the
Kegulator attachment work. I still managed to
overcarbonate the beer a bit, but it didn’t make
the biggest difference for a creamy porter.
After a successful Kickstarter campaign in early
2015, DrinkTanks growlers and minikegs began
shipping a few months after. Find out more
or purchase a DrinkTank for yourself at their website: www.drinktanks.com.
That’s exactly what DrinkTanks provides. DrinkTanks growlers are available in both 128-ounce
versions dubbed The Juggernaut, or in 64-ounce
Classic Growlers. We opted for the deceptively
large 64-ounce rendition, , which is available
in 14 uniquely colored finishes. While it looks
no bigger than a typical beer stein, the Classic
Growler actually holds a half-gallon of liquid in its
exceedingly light, high-grade stainless steel shell.
In a nifty twist, this growler can also do double
duty as a personal mini keg with the help of
DrinkTanks’ auto-regulating keg cap. The Kegulator, as DrinksTanks calls it, came with our growler. If you opt for this additional piece of gear, you
get a detachable tap and two CO² cartridges for a
truly creamy kegged beer experience.
We poured a bomber of our fall issue’s highestscoring beer, Rogue Mocha Porter, into the
growler and let it sit overnight. All DrinkTanks
growlers are fully vaccuum insulated, so you can
put either hot or cold liquids in it and it will keep
them piping hot (for 12 hours) or fully chilled (for
24 hours), according to DrinkTanks› website.
We tested the beer upon arriving at our offices
the next day and observed that the beers were
indeed still cool, but not cold. While this temperature was perfect for a porter, lighter beers would
suffer a bit from higher temperatures, so keep
that in mind before purchasing.
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European Report
by Carolyn Smagalski The Mercury Rises
Over seventy performers entertained music
fans from London to Philadelphia during
the simulcasted Live Aid concert in 1985, including British rock legend, Queen. According to Wikipedia, “Queen’s performance on
that day [at Wembley Stadium] has since
been voted by more than 60 artists, journalists and music industry executives as the
greatest live performance in the history of
rock music.”
Lead singer Freddie Mercury opened
with Bohemian Rhapsody, the unconventional, six-minute single most responsible
for Queen’s worldwide success. Forty years
since its release in 1975, the ballad/opera/
hard rock classic has earned its rightful
coronation with the creation of Queen Bohemian Lager, a traditional, hoppy pilsner
of 4.7% ABV.
Michael Voldrich, 2014 Czech Brewmaster
of the Year, fittingly brews the celebratory beer at the Protivín Brewery in the Kingdom of Bohemia.
The brewery, owned by the Lobkowicz Group since 2008, dates back to the mid-sixteenth century, with
origins to the Schwarzenberg Dynasty. Voldrich created Queen Bohemian Pils using Moravian barley,
soft water, and Saaz hops with decoction mashing and a double fermentation process. It is GMO free
and has earned PGI status, registered with Protective Geographical Indication certification.
The beer label bears the original Queen crest designed by Mercury, complete with the members’
zodiac signs and eyes of the Queen. It is further enhanced with Bohemian patterns and color, which
accentuate the artistry under which it is brewed. Distribution plans include an initial rollout in the UK
this year, followed by release on the international stage.
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European Report
BrewDog Comes West
With a solid push from their crowdfunding campaign, Equity for Punks, BrewDog of Scotland began
installment of a £25 million brewhouse in Ellon, Aberdeenshire, with plans for a February 2016 opening.
Capacity is expected to increase to five times current levels in the UK.
By August 2016, Martin Dickie and James Watt will mark their territory in Canal Winchester, establishing a North American Headquarters near Columbus, Ohio. The $30.4 million expansion includes a
brewery, restaurant, tap room, and visitors’ center. BrewDog’s new growth will initially add 115 jobs to
the region, along with a boost to the manufacturing and tourism sectors. Hiring begins in 2016.
by Carl Kins
Wild beers are on the rise. Duvel’s Antwerp subsidiary De Koninck launched a new beer, Wild Jo. This
comes after BOM Brewery’s Triporteur Wild & Funky and Halve Maan (Bruges) re-released Brugse Zot
Wild for the second year.
Halve Maan is now launching a sizeable crowdfunding exercise to fund the two-mile pipeline
between the brewery and the bottling plant. There are three possibilities, but the “Gold” funder
will get a Brugse Zot daily for the rest of his/her life. This comes at a hefty price of 7,500 EUR (approx. 8,300 USD). Plus, they successfully continue to claim the term “Zot” (fool) worldwide, such
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European Report
that Finnish brewers had to recall their beer “Vlaamsche Zot”. Sports and beer are getting more and more intertwined.
The Brussels breweries teamed together recently in honor of the local soccer
club (Union St. Gillis) winning their championship and being promoted to
Second League. For this, Manneken Pis, the famous Brussels/Belgian symbol
was dressed in club colors and beer was poured from, amongst others, Cantillon and Brasserie de la Senne. Cycling is huge in Belgium and more breweries are trying to hook up somehow. Brouwerij De Bie launched Vélo, a typical tripel, in cooperation with the
Etixx-Quick Step team. This follows in the successful footsteps of Kwaremont
(a hill in Flanders, famous amongst cyclists) brewed by Brouwerij De Brabandere and Koerseklakse (meaning cycling cap) brewed by Gaverhopke.
A strange limited-edition collaboration recently occurred involving the heavily expanding lambic brewer Lindemans and Mikkeller. They developed
SpontanBasil, an old gueuze to which fresh basil was added.
Johan van Dyck, who has Seef beer under contract, is starting his own brewery in Antwerp, and he has also launched a new beer, Bootjesbier, with a
link to the Red Star Line Museum. The Red Star Line transported tens of
thousands of immigrants to Ellis Island in the U.S. This link to the United
States translates into the beer via the use of U.S. hops.
The fourth edition of the successful Brussels Beer Challenge beer competition will take place in Antwerp in November.
by Max Bahnson
Micro Movement Gains Momentum
The number of microbreweries keeps on growing relentlessly, and it›s now well over 300, making the
Czech Republic one of the countries with the most breweries per capita in the world. The word minipivovar (microbrewery) has become as mainstream as craft in other countries.
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European Report
This hasn›t escaped the attention of the bigger players, who have improved the quality of some of their
products and also have put out single hop lagers with new Czech cultivars. But nobody has taken the
movement toward craft as seriously as the country›s best-selling brand, Gambrinus, owned by SABMiller.
In May, a new micro-brand from a tiny West Bohemian village, «Patron», started showing up at specialist
bars and at a couple of festivals. Its beers, two pale lagers, were well received and got positive reviews
at dedicated websites. The brewery, however, was fictitious and the beers were in fact relabelled Gambrinus. It was all part of a marketing stunt by the brand to prove that its beers, much unloved by local
enthusiasts, are actually as good as anything from a microbrewery and that the criticism the beers
receive is mostly based on prejudice.
The campaign was quite successful and was followed up by posters and other materials at Gambrinustied pubs that reassure the drinkers that they are making the right choice, regardless of what the haters
say.
Meanwhile, the official industry figures, released by the Czech Brewers and Maltsters association,
didn›t show any surprises. As expected, the numbers followed last year›s trend, a negligible growth
with falling domestic consumption and growing exports. www.BeerConnoisseur.com |
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Robinsons originally believed Iron Maiden lacked an “authentic story” for a collaboration beer, but it quickly became clear
that Dickinson was an enthusiastic beer expert – even sending pictures of his beer collection to Robinsons to convey his
passion.
Iron Maiden, Robinsons Brewery Deploy the ‘Trooper’
By Chris Guest
When Bruce Dickinson, the stentorian-voiced
lead singer of massively popular metal band
Iron Maiden, approached Robinsons Brewery
of Stockport, England about a collaboration, the
company was unsure.
David Bremner, director of marketing at Robinsons, knew the company was wary of a collaboration beer after an unsuccessful previous
venture with British rock group Elbow.
“There’s a few key ingredients when you’re doing any collaborative beer,” Bremner explained.
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“You need an authentic story, you need to
work with the right people, you need a truly
collaborative approach, and most importantly,
you need a fanatical fan base with a huge social
media following.”
Though Elbow are critical darlings, the group
didn’t have a truly rabid fan base that it engaged with on a regular basis, and the group
also didn’t have a collaborative approach to
making the beer.
Robinsons originally believed Iron Maiden
lacked an “authentic story” for a collaboration
beer, but it quickly became clear that Dickin-
son was an enthusiastic beer expert – even
sending pictures of his beer collection to Robinsons to convey his passion.
The head brewer was dispatched to London
with 10 beers to meet with Dickinson. “They
took the labels off and he blind tasted them,”
said Bremner. “Bruce knew six out of ten beers
blind. He knew the hops that were in them and
he knew the malts that were in them, and we
knew then that we had a really authentic story
all of a sudden – far
more authentic than
anyone could’ve
hoped for.”
While blind tasting
the beers, Bruce
made it clear that
he wanted to make
a beer in a traditional English style,
so they settled on
Trooper as a strong
bitter. “Robinsons
didn’t want to make
a beer that was ontrend for the market, they wanted to
make a beer that
Bruce would like to make for the fans, a beer
that he could create and deliver,” said Bremner. “You could make a tastier beer, you could
make a more pungent beer, but we wanted a
beer that people could come back to time and
time again.”
The response to Trooper has blown away the
folks at Robinsons, but it wasn’t that surprising. Bremner remembers going to Disneyland
three years ago with his kids and queuing up
to get on the Finding Nemo ride. While waiting, he saw “three blokes of different ages, not
together, all wearing Iron Maiden shirts.” He
knew then that this beer could turn into a phenomenon.
The devotion with which Iron Maiden fans
consume the group’s music certainly applies to
the group’s beer too, which works out well for
Robinsons. “The fans buy Iron Maiden albums
once, whereas this gives them the chance to
drink the band’s beer five times a day, every
day,” said Bremner. “It’s an ongoing immersion
into the Iron Maiden brand. It’s consistently
thanking them for their loyalty.”
Unlike other beer and music collaborations,
Dickinson actually visited the
brewery several
times to help with
brewing the beer.
When Robinsons
launched the beer,
said Bremner,
“Bruce led the
brewery tour for
the beer journalists
himself.”
The beer market
is fairly saturated
with music collaborations, with
some brewers, like
London’s Signature Brew, almost focusing solely on them. But
Trooper was really the first one by a British
brewery to show such lasting appeal and staying power.
“Beer fans can get quickly fatigued with collaborations,” Bremner said, jokingly bringing up
an Oprah Winfrey Gin or a Justin Bieber Vodka.
“In the UK, other bands have done this and
they’ve failed time after time after time.”
In many cases, the finished beers just weren’t
tasty or interesting. “The most essential part is
getting a beer that the fans are going to enjoy,”
Bremner said.
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The majority of beers sold in Britain are 4
percent ABV or under, and when Robinsons
debuted Trooper at 4.8 percent ABV it immediately began outselling older, more established brands with its richer flavor profile and
“distinctive look” featuring the zombified Iron
Maiden mascot, Eddie the Head, on its taps and
label artwork.
Even in American beer shrines with over 120
craft brews on tap, Trooper gets noticed due to
Iron Maiden’s massive worldwide reach via its
social media following.
“I’ve been working in the beverage industry for
18 years,” Bremner said. “Trooper is the only
beer I’ve dealt with that actually puts people in
pubs – we tell the fans where to find the beer
on social media, and it drives people into that
pub.”
(Editor’s Note: Bremner told BC that big news
was on the horizon regarding Trooper, and shortly after completing this interview, Robinsons
announced Trooper 666, a 6.6% ABV ale created
in celebration of the 10 million pints of Trooper
sold around the world and the 40th anniversary
of Iron Maiden’s formation.)
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European Beer and Cider
Selections from England
Iron Maiden Trooper
Robinsons Brewery
Stockport, England
http://www.ironmaidenbeer.com/
Inspired by Iron Maiden and handcrafted at Robinsons Brewery, malt flavors and citric notes from
a unique blend of Bobec, Goldings and Cascade
hops dominate this deep 4.8 percent ABV golden
ale with a subtle hint of lemon.
Old Tom Chocolate Strong Ale
Robinsons Brewery
Stockport, England
http://www.robinsonsbrewery.com/
Brewed with cocoa and Madagascar bourbon
vanilla, this 6 percent ABV dark strong ale is
shockingly dry. Beautiful dark chocolate notes
intermingle with full, ripe malt for a velvety beer
experience unlike any other.
Old Tom Ginger Strong Ale
Robinsons Brewery
Stockport, England
http://www.robinsonsbrewery.com/
Made with Fentiman’s Ginger Ale, Old Tom
Ginger features a bracing, zesty and pronounced
ginger character like no other ginger beer we
have ever tasted, and bubbles in at an intensely
delicious 6 percent ABV.
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Old Tom Original Strong Ale
Robinsons Brewery
Stockport, England
http://www.robinsonsbrewery.com/
A massive, dark and warming 8.5 percent ale with
notes of dried fruit and pepper coupled with a
hefty malt backbone. You’ll taste roasted nuts,
chocolate and a pleasant smokiness. Aromas of
ripe malt and dried fruit round out the character of this tremendous, traditional and excellent
Strong Ale.
Aspall Dry English Cider
Aspall Cider House
Suffolk, England
http://www.aspall.co.uk/
Pours a mid straw-gold colour, with a lean and
light floral aroma of dessert apples. Dry, round
and creamy on the palate with medium fullness,
the 6.8 percent ABV Aspall Dry boasts well-balanced acidity with pleasant soft tannins and an
elegant, long finish. A highly versatile partner for
any dish, try with charcuterie, sweet and spicy
dishes, and all cheeses.
Aspall Peronnelle’s Blush English
Cider
Aspall Cider House
Suffolk, England
http://www.aspall.co.uk/
Pours a clear salmon-pink colour with a marked
floral, apple and blackberry aroma. Assertive
palate, medium in body with attractive apple
and blackberry flavours. This sweet, well-balanced traditional English cider makes an ideal
aperitif and complement to fruit-based desserts.
5.2 percent ABV.
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