Chile and Argentina: Birds & Wine 2012
Potrerillos, Mendoza, Argentina
Our inaugural Bird & Wine trip was a blast. We were able to fit in a lot in a
short amount of time, awesome birding and some great wine tasting. You will
see more and more trips like this being offered by more and more people, but
you can brag to your friends that you were on the first! No kidding, mixing
wine and birds in South America had not been done before. Why didn’t
anyone think of this before?
Our trip began with a visit to the central market, with everyone
thinking, oh my gosh, is the entire trip going to be like this? The market is a
unique Santiago cultural experience, the ambience is lacking, but the seafood is
great…if you like seafood that is. Our first full day in the field we spent
heading up into the Santiago Andes, seeing a nice set of birds, from Crag Chilia
to everyone’s favorite the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover along with the best show
of Mountain Parakeets I can recall, as well as many additional highland species.
Heading south to our forest birding experience we visited the Vilches (Altos de
Lircay) area where right on cue another highlight knocked its way into our life,
an amazing long study of Magellanic Woodpeckers. We had them essentially
hanging out with us during the whole time up in the forest! The trees were full
of Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, we found some nice Austral Parakeets, Whitethroated Treerunners made an appearance and Magellanic Tapaculo was great.
But in the evening we just absolutely lucked out with great sightings of Rufouslegged Owl, which can be hard to come by, and Band-winged Nightjar. On our
way down hill the next day, heading to wine country, we visited Colbun Lake
where our encounter with a large flock of the endangered Chilean form of
Burrowing Parrot, was absolute magic. They allowed us in to their family! In
the Santa Cruz area we devoted ourselves to wine tasting, from Viñas Santa
Cruz, Montes and Casa Silva, each unique in the way they make their wines,
and in their history and style. After lunch outdoors at Montes, a great surprise
was a Magellanic Horned Owl perched right beside us as we went back to the
bus! Our trip continued heading downslope, to the ocean in fact, where we
would spend a few days at the seaside city of Viña del Mar. On our way to the
coast we stopped at the amazingly birdy Maipo River Mouth where our first
shorebirds, boobies, gulls and terns all were. There were absolutely thousands of
birds to be seen at the river mouth, with even a rare (for Chile) Sandwich Tern
thrown in to the mix. Another wine was tasted before ending this day, with the
uber organic Matetic Winery an interesting and beautifully built place with
some nice tasting stuff! Near Viña del Mar is La Campana National Park,
known to be one of the places where Charles Darwin visited and made
collections of bugs and other creatures. We spent a morning here finding
White-throated Hawk, a fly by Great Shrike-Tyrant, the elusive Whitethroated Tapaculo, the not so elusive Dusky Tapaculo and repeat views of
Moustached Turca. For many though, the absolute show stopper was a Giant
Hummingbird that came so close that it was obvious why this is known as the
goliath of all hummers. A bit of a Bavarian lunch was a change of pace, and
then Humboldt Penguins were for desert in the afternoon at Cachagua. Ending
our coastal portion with a bang, we headed out the next day for our pelagic trip
with great views at Salvin’s, Black-browed and Buller’s albatrosses, many Sooty
and Pink-footed Shearwaters, the “Fuegian” Wilson’s Storm-Petrel, Peruvian
Diving-Petrels and many other great seabirds. The top of the line bird though
was the Juan Fernandez Petrel, a species often missed on the spring trips, but
much easier to see at this time of year in Chile.
Then things
changed, we moved east
and up the mountains,
but not only that we
crossed borders to
Argentina. Crossing the
Andes here is a fantastic
thing to experience; you
see the change in
scenery, the change in
birds, and the change in
the culture and people.
Then there is also the change in the wine! Being able to experience a bit of both
countries like this back-to-back is just so much fun. We also were amazingly
lucky to avoid getting caught in a big storm up in the Andes, if the border
people had taken more time to do their job we would have had a prolonged
stay up there, but luckily this unusual situation did not hold us back. We were
suddenly in the land of Patagonian Mockingbirds, Great Pampa Finches,
Baywing Cowbirds, entirely different from the Chilean side. Our time in the
foothills of Mendoza was nice; we saw more condors that you could shake a
stick at! We also had great beer at Jerome, the beautiful Red-tailed Comet
teased us throughout our stay, but eventually gave nice views. There were new
finches, new flycatchers including the Fork-tailed, as well as some real nice
finds like the Crested Gallito, and Steinbach’s Canastero. We took a birding
breather to visit the wineries, Viña Cobos, Belasco de Baquedano and Club
Tapiz where the nesting Monk Parakeets made an impact. The Malbec was true
to form, we enjoyed the learning and tasting, but that lunch….oh my! That
had to be the best beef I have ever had in my existence. WOW. It makes you
wonder how our guide fit into her miniscule dress if she eats like that when out
at work? How do Argentines do it, maybe it’s the wine? Our final new foray for
birds was to hit the desert lowlands of Mendoza, and while hot and dry we saw
some great stuff. The scenery is radically different from the highlands, but a
peppering of goodies such as White and Black-crowned Monjita, Brown
Cacholote, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, White-banded Mockingbird, Aplomado
Falcon and so many others made this day really a super one. Crossing the
Andes back to Chile we had very different weather, clear weather this time. We
were able to see Mt. Aconcagua from a distance and a close up angle, getting us
to see exactly how big this largest of the mountains in the Americas really is. It
was great to pickup a bit of hawk migration while we were up there, and
fantastic views at a favorite of mine, the Straight-billed Earthcreeper. Perhaps
the most magical event of the trip was getting out of the tunnel on the Chilean
side and having that monster Andean Condor female right at the side of the
road!! We got out and she just strutted her stuff over head, landing again on the
roadside below. You know you are seeing something special when the truckers
stop to look. Finishing the trip we hit Lampa and the wetlands there where we
could not find the dang Painted Snipe although all sorts of other shorebird and
marsh birds were to be found. Oh well, we gave it a good shot. We drowned
our sorrows later on at Concha y Toro, tasting the best known of all Chilean
wines and enjoying a tour that was better than any of us expected. The cellar of
the devil was fun.
I greatly appreciate all of you
coming along, taking a chance on a
new idea, and an untested trip. It
was so much fun for me and
Ricardo to do this, and we look
forward to doing it many times
more in the future. I hope it left
you thinking, I gotta get back and
see the rest of those countries! You
know where to find me. I look
forward to traveling with all of you
again in the future, how about a
wine trip in South Africa – anyone
up for that? Let me get thinking
about that one and drawing up a
plan! Good Birding. Alvaro.
Bird List
* = heard only.
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
Darwin’s Nothura Nothura darwinii – We heard but could not see one of these shy birds
near Jocoli. Frankly, I did not know they got so far west.
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
Black-necked Swan Cygnus melancoryphus – This is South America’s only true swan, which
we saw well in the Maipo River Mouth.
Coscoroba Swan Coscoroba coscoroba – One at the Maipo River mouth.
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata – Super looks at a male just before we enjoyed the
Burrowing Parrot show, this was at Lago Colbun.
Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides – This duck is closely related to the Spectacled
Duck, and the two are in turn relatively closely related to the steamer ducks of farther south!
We saw the Crested Duck only on the Chilean Side of the tunnel to Argentina.
Spectacled Duck Speculanas specularis – It was not a complete surprise to see this species at
Lago Colbun, as I have seen them here before. However, it was a complete surprise to see so
many! The Spectacled Duck is an uncommon to rare species, which is strongly associated
with broad Andean Rivers. The largest numbers of this species seem to be at the headwaters
of Lake Colbun, where we saw them.
Chiloe Wigeon Anas sibilatrix – Widespread, and reasonably common. We saw this duck in
both nations.
Yellow-billed Teal Anas flavirostris – Up until recently this duck was known as the Speckled
Teal. It is a common duck which we saw both in Chile and Argentina.
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica – This hen plumaged duck is common in both countries,
and we did indeed see them in both countries.
[Argentine] Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera cyanoptera – Although in North America the
Cinnamon Teal is a largely western bird, in South America it is widespread in the south of
the continent and the Andes. The form we saw is entirely geographically isolated from the
North American birds, and interestingly they are reasonably well differentiated genetically.
However, they look reasonably similar in the field. We had great looks at Cinnamon Teal
particularly at Ventanas (the Sulphuric Acid place).
Red Shoveler Anas platalea – We saw many on our time near the coast, with some nice looks
at males where we were able to see their white eyes, black bills, and fancy plumage.
Black-headed Duck Heteronetta atricapilla – This duck is one of the world’s unusual species
as it is a brood parasitic duck, this means it lays its eggs in the nests of other species, like a
cowbird. However, it is the only precocial (chicks can fend for themselves when they hatch)
bird that is a brood parasite! We saw a female at Ventanas, on the Chilean coast and had a
relatively good look at it.
Lake Duck Oxyura vittata – Good views at Ventanas, on the Chilean coast. This is a duck
related to our Ruddy Duck, although the males have dark cheeks rather than the white.
Odontophoridae (New World Quail)
California Quail Callipepla californica – The California Quail was introduced from
California to Chile in the 1800s. It has done well! We heard or saw them on several
occasions in Chile.
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia Rolland – This is a unique looking grebe, with a white face
patch and a relatively thick bill. We saw this grebe in both Chile and Argentina. The first
good ones everyone saw was at Ventanas (the Sulphuric Acid plant.
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps – One of the most widespread species in the New
World. The subspecies which we saw (antarcticus) is slightly different from northern
hemisphere birds. They were about in small numbers both in Chile and Argentina.
Great Grebe Podiceps major – This big grebe is rather unlike classic grebes in the genus
Podiceps, and it has sometimes been placed in its own genus. It was an absolutely amazing
sight to see so many of them at Lake Ranco on our drive from the Colchagua Valley to the
coast. Some had young and were even carrying them on their backs. We did see one in
Argentina as well at the
Jocoli pond.
Spheniscidae (Penguins)
Humboldt Penguin
Spheniscus humboldti – What
absolute fun it was to spend
an afternoon watching
Humboldt Penguins in Cachagua, Chile.
penguins at the Cachagua colony. There were a few birds in molt, some in full plumage and
juveniles as well. We saw some swimming and getting into the water. On the next day we
did see one on the pelagic, and one at the white rock in Reñaca near Viña del Mar. The
Humboldt Penguin is considered threatened as it has a relatively small population and some
declines have been detected.
Diomedeidae (Albatrosses)
Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris - Several eventually showed up on the
pelagic, but it took a while! In winter this is the most common species of albatross here, but
their numbers in late summer and early fall are much smaller. We did see young and
subadults, again this is typical in the breeding season for a Valparaiso Pelagic. These birds
breed in southern Chile and the Falklands.
Buller's Albatross Thalassarche bulleri – This is not a common albatross in Chile, and its
numbers appear to vary from year to year. We are still unclear as to its seasonal variation as
well. The first one I misidentified as a Black-browed due to its unusual white head, this bird
must have been very faded on the head, the other two or so that showed up were not so odd
but they also showed paler heads than usual. The black bill with a yellow ridge could be seen,
as could the broad dark section on the leading edge of the underwing. The Buller’s breeds in
New Zealand.
Salvin's Albatross
Salvin's Albatross Thalassarche salvini – During the summer season, this is the most common
albatross off Valparaiso. This is the largest of the mollymawks (genus Thalassarche), and
when besides other species it can be strikingly larger. The Salvin’s breeds in New Zealand
waters, and was until recently considered part of the Shy Albatross species. We saw several
different ages on our trip.
Procellariidae (Petrels and Shearwaters)
Northern Giant-Petrel Macronectes halli – A giant petrel of some species was observed on the
pelagic, unfortunately you need a close look to identify these species with certainty. Based on
probability, at this time of year the Northern is much more common than the southern.
Juan Fernandez Petrel
Pterodroma externa –
Juan Fernandez Petrel.
It is always a treat to see a
Pterodroma petrel, no
matter where you are in the
World. It is especially cool
when the petrel is an
endemic breeder as is Chile’s
Juan Fernandez Petrel which
breeds on the island of
Selkirk (Masafuera). This
species is extremely difficult
to see in spring trips, but it
becomes much more
findable, as we saw, on fall trips.
White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis – This was the common large dark
“Procellaria” Petrel we saw on the trip. The white chin is very difficult to see, sometimes it is
almost absent, but the entirely yellowish bill is a key feature to separate it from the next
species. s
Westland Petrel Procellaria westlandica – One of these showed pretty well, this was the
lookalike to the White-chinned except for the dark bill tip. Westland Petrels never show a
white chin, but then again, when do you get such a great look at a seabird’s chin?
Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus – This was the common shearwater on the pelagic, as well
as on the day before off Cachagua. Many of these were in wing molt, which is what you
expect after breeding. However, most were rather well advanced on the wing molt, and Sooty
Shearwaters peak in molt during May off California. Got you confused yet? Well, the punch
line is that the earlier molting birds off Valparaiso were likely not adults but birds hatched
last year, which molt earlier than the old timers.
Pink-footed Shearwater Puffinus creatopus – This shearwater only breeds in Chile. What was
kind of weird was that on our pelagic there were so few of them. Usually it is a much more
common species. I should not complain, we saw a good number and we saw them well – and
that is what counts.
Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus – You gotta consider that Manx Shearwaters are Atlantic
species, so what are they doing in the Pacific? Well, no one knows! Some may just head a
little too far south below Cape Horn, and then on their way north, they go up the wrong
side of the American continent. But seeing three different birds on one pelagic off Valparaiso
was a surprise, a high number for me. There have been many records of this species this year
off Valparaiso, suggesting something weird happened in 2012. Some suspect that these
wrong way weirdos may have set up shop and could be breeding up in the north Pacific,
maybe Alaska or British Columbia perhaps?
Hydrobatidae (Storm-Petrels)
Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus chilensis – I may have alluded to this on the tour,
but the taxonomy of Wilson’s Storm-Petrel is up in the air. Several of us just wrote a paper
to re-establish the name chilensis for this unique population that breeds in the southern cone
of South America (that is to say away from Antarctica). These, which were what we saw off
Valparaiso, are smaller than the classic Wilson’s and they have pale underwings and
sometimes even some white on the belly! I feel that these are more closely related to the
Elliot’s Storm-Petrel and that they deserve to be separated as a species – the Fuegian StormPetrel. Time will tell if this version of events is accepted.
Pelecanoididae (Diving-Petrels)
Peruvian Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides garnotii – I like these birds, they are so un-petrel like! As
I mentioned, they more closely resemble northern alcids. This species is threatened, and
Valparaiso is a great place to see it as we found out. The weird situation we encountered was
finding a freshly dead individual floating on the sea. Too bad that the CSI folks were not
around to explain the time and cause of death. I can only assume that this was a crime of
passion…or do diving petrels experience passion? Maybe I better come up with a better
theory.
Ciconiidae (Storks)
Wood Stork Mycteria americana – Two Wood Storks in the Jocoli area of Mendoza were a
definite surprise!
Sulidae (Boobies)
Peruvian Booby Sula variegatus – Booby is a funny word and it is a funny bird. The Peruvian
in closely related to the Blue-footed, but has grey feet. Poor guy. We saw many Peruvian
Boobies on the coast.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus – Common, the only cormorant that is seen
away from salt water in southern South America. We found it both in Chile and Argentina.
Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi – Nice views at the big rock in Reñaca.
Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii – Several on the coast as well as on the
pelagic. This is a rather large ocean going cormorant.
Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus – Compared to the Brown Pelican, this is a huge bird! I
know, Brown Pelicans are large enough, but the Peruvian takes it a notch or two up from it.
Common on the coast.
Ardeidae (Herons and Egrets)
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax – We saw the form obscurus, found
throughout Chile. This is a very dark species. The birds in Mendoza may in fact be of the
paler and more widespread subspecies.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis – Common roadside bird.
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi – In Chile and Argentina, uncommon.
Great Egret Ardea alba – Common in both countries.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula – Common, particularly associated with rivers in this part of
South America.
Threskiornithidae (Ibis and Spoonbills)
White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi – This widespread ibis we saw both in Chile and Argentina, it
is rather uncommon in Chile.
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura – Common, particularly near the coast.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus – Common.
Andean Condor Vultur
gryphus – It seems weird to
say that the Andean Condor
can be common, but that
great afternoon we had them
on our first day in Argentina
was not with one or two, but
a whole bunch! We started
our first day of birding with
a condor in the Santiago
Andes, and we ended our
Andean Condor adventures
with the greatest of all. That
tame female that landed besides the road just as we exited the tunnel in Chile was amazing,
incredible, dare I say it – Awesome!! Wow.
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus – This kite is among the most widespread of Neotropical
raptors, but it is patchy in its abundance. It seems most common in the US, and in the
southern cone, and much less abundant in more tropical regions. We saw this species largely
as a roadside bird seen from the bus, both in Chile and Argentina. A single bird “kiting” with
the Andes in the background as we waited to enter Viña Cobos in Mendoza made a
particularly striking picture.
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus – This guy did not appear for the entire group until we
were heading back to Chile north of Uspallata. There appeared to be a northbound
migration of these birds on this day, perhaps they use these intermountain valleys in the
Andes to migrate? More tours and observations will confirm if this unknown raptor
migratory route really is one! A neat discovery for sure.
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus unicinctus– Uncommon but observed on several
occasions. We saw it both in Chile and Argentina. These southern populations are not social
hunters like the northern ones seen in Arizona, the southern birds are also less boldly
patterned. In the past the southern form was known as the “Bay-winged Hawk.”
Variable Hawk Geranoaetus polyosoma – The Variable Hawk is usually of the pale form and
easy to identify. The variability comes in the dark morph, and the various age classes which
confuse the picture. Most of the ones we saw were pale, but some neat dark ones showed up
in the Andes of Mendoza. This hawk is know, along with the White-tailed, considered to be
part of the same genus as the buzzard-eagle, so it is no longer a Buteo. A very cool
observation was watching that single male chase around and bother the Magellanic
Woodpeckers at Vilches, it really seemed like this bird was hoping to eat that juvenile! As far
as we could see, he had little chance of doing so.
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus – A very unusually shaped raptor, at
least as an adult, with its ridiculously short tail. As a youngster it is much more traditionally
shaped, and now genetic evidence clarifies that it is very closely related to the Variable and
White-tailed Hawks. We saw several buzzard-eagles during the tour, including a superb view
while we gassed up on the Chilean side of the Andean crossing.
White-throated Hawk Buteo albigula – This is not a common hawk, and it has only recently
been discovered that they are entirely migratory, breeding in the south and migrating in
winter to the northern Andes. We had a poor but relatively close look in Vilchez as we saw
the first Magellanic Woodpecker. A bit less expected were the pair we saw at La Campana
National Park farther north in Chile. They breed this far north, but sparingly, La Campana
may be at the range limit for this hawk.
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus – This is a large and when they want to be, a
rather bold rail. In other words, they will come out in the open! Our best views were in
Uspallata, Mendoza, although we saw it at Jocoli pond as well.
Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops – On our way to Santa Cruz in Chile we saw this
small, actually tiny, gallinule.
Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata - This is a vagrant where we saw it in Lampa.
However, the species appears to be expanding its range southward, so it is not absolutely
unexpected, but a good record.
Red-gartered Coot Fulica armillata – This is the larger one of the three coots. We even saw
the red garters on birds at the Sulfuric Acid place.
Red-fronted Coot Fulica rufifrons - This coot is gallinule like, and often keeps to the reeds
rather than in the open. They show a lot of white on the undertail coverts.
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera – This is the smallest of the three coots, and one which
we saw in both countries. It is thought that of the three it is this one which is most closely
related to our American Coot.
Charadriidae (Plovers)
Southern [Chilean] Lapwing Vanellus c. chilensis – The Chilean version of the Southern
Lapwing has a vibrating voice that reminds of a parrot. It is found in Chile and Patagonia. In
addition it is brighter in plumage, more grayish on the head and larger in size as compared to
the next. This would be a nice clean cut two species story if they didn’t hybridize commonly
where they meet, and this is what we saw in Mendoza.
Southern [Cayenne] Lapwing Vanellus chilensis lampronotus – This version of the Southern
Lapwing is found from central Argentina north to Bermuda and Panama. They have a
simple voice, and are longer legged and browner, but show a long black crest. We saw a few
good ones, but many intermediate birds in Mendoza.
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris – This is the one small plover in Chile that is also found
inland as well as the coast. We saw it well at the Maipo River mouth as well as Lampa.
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover Phegornis mitchellii – WOW. I know this one was on the top of
the list for many of your, and fortunately there is a great and reliable site to go see the
species. Friends studying the bird had told me that in other breeding sites they go to the
DSP had become difficult to find, but not at the classic spot. We had great views there of
two adults doing their thing, we had plenty of time to enjoy them and get photos. What a
bird!
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus – Common on the coast.
Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater – In rocky areas this is the more expected
oystercatcher in Chile, so it was odd to see our first mixed in with Americans on the sand at
the Maipo River Mouth. We did find cute oystercatcher chicks being fed by adults farther
north along the coast.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts & Avocets)
Black-necked [Southern] Stilt Himantopus mexicanus melanurus – The taxonomy of stilts
shifts around all over the place. Many times these are considered their own species, known as
the Southern or White-backed Stilts, but the Cornell list considers them part of the Blacknecked Stilt. The two have noticeably distinct calls.
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
South American [Magellanic] Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica – There were
absolutely tons of these in Lampa, sadly none of the painted variety. We did see snipe also at
Maipo River Mouth and El Yeso. The southern version of this species, the one we saw, have
a different winnowing song than the more northern representatives. When they are
separated, the one we saw will be called the Magellanic Snipe.
[Hudsonian] Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus – Chile is the main wintering site for
Whimbrels in South America. We proved this, seeing many on the coast, believe it or not
they become even more common farther south in the country.
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca – Uncommon, found in both countries.
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes – More common than the Greater, also seen in both
countries.
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres – Several were molting into breeding plumage at the big
rock in Reñaca.
Surfbird Aphriza virgata – A common rocky habitat shorebird which winters in Chile, we
saw this species at the mouth of the Maipo River as well as Reñaca.
Sanderling Calidris alba – A good number was seen at the mouth of the Maipo River, where
at times they can congregate in great numbers.
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla - These birds were quite a surprise, they are vagrants this
far south where we found them in Lampa. Other local birders re-found the pair of Leasts
days after we saw them, but they did not find our Common Gallinule.
Baird's Sandpiper Calidris bairdii – Found both on the coast and in the Andes; this is one of
the few migratory shorebirds which is common in the Andes. The other long-winged peep,
the White-rumped is much more closely associated with the Atlantic Coast.
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos – Man that was a HUGE number for Chile, we
certainly saw the record number (I estimated 80) ever in Chile. We shall go down in the
record books! This was at Lampa on our last day of birding.
Thinocoridae (Seedsnipes)
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus – Amazing looks at seedsnipes during our
time up at the Yeso Valley.
Stercorariidae (Skuas & Jaegers)
Chilean Skua Stercorarius chilensis – One made a close pass during the latter part of our
Valparaiso pelagic.
Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus – A couple went by, at a distance, during the
Valparaiso pelagic.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus – A surprise was seeing a juvenile near the mouth of
the Maipo River. More expected was to see the adult fly by above Colbun Lake before our
parrot show. They breed up there somewhere and come down to the lake to feed, particularly
after the breeding season.
Brown-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus maculipennis – Common on the coast.
Gray Gull Leucophaeus modestus – Moderate numbers were about on the coast. This species
breeds much farther north, right smack in the middle of the desert!
Franklin's Gull Leucophaeus pipixcan – The Franklin’s Gull is highly migratory, they breed
in the Prairies and Great Plains, then fly down to Peru and Chile and become entirely
marine! By the time we saw them they were getting amazingly pink and were getting their
black heads.
Kelp Gull adult on Chilean coast.
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus – Common on the coast, this is the only big gull found this far
south. Many juveniles were out, which were a contrast in brown as compared to the black
and white adults.
Inca Tern Larosterna inca – The Inca Tern is invariably the most beautiful tern in the world!
So there we were, watching one of the most gorgeous seabirds on earth on our pelagic. We
also saw them at the rock in Reñaca later on in the day, this is at a spot where this beauty
nests.
Common Tern Sterna hirundo – At least one was in the tern flock at the mouth of the
Maipo River. This is about as far as far south as this tern winters on the Pacific Coast.
South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea – One, at least, showed up in the big tern flock at
the mouth of the Maipo River.
Elegant Tern Thalasseus elegans – Common on the coast, particularly at the Maipo River
mouth. These are wintering birds which breed up in Baja California and California.
Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis – Although rare this far south, the mouth of the
Maipo River is a standard place to see this species in the late summer and early fall. One was
in the tern flock there.
[Amazon] Black Skimmer Rynchops niger cinarescens – Common at the mouth of the Maipo
River, these dark winged birds breed in the Amazon basin and winter on the Pacific Coast.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui – Pretty common on the Chilean side, but downright
abundant in Mendoza! Tiny but a rather attractive dove.
Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera – Seen well both on the Chilean and
Argentine side of the Andes.
Rock Pigeon Columba livia – Introduced, common in cities and towns.
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa maculosa – Common in Mendoza, Argentina. The
form we saw was the lowland form, the birds up farther north in the highlands have a
different look as these have whiter wings and other aspects of plumage. The two may be
different species.
Chilean Pigeon Patagioenas araucana – The Chilean Pigeon is the southern version of the
Band-tailed Pigeon. Their underparts on the other hand are the color of wine, appropriate
for this tour. We saw them from Vilchez north to La Campana National Park.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata – Common in both nations.
Pacific (West Peruvian) Dove Zenaida meloda – Colin got a glimpse of one of these near Los
Andes. This is south of the regular range, although several reports have come from this area
in the last two years. It seems that they have expanded to the south, and this area is a nucleus
of occurrence, good one Colin.
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus – Four of them showed up in Mendoza on the side road
towards Capilla San Jose.
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus – A surprise was one down low near
Potrerillos after that highland snowfall. Another on the way across the Andes.
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango – Common.
American Kestrel Falco sparverius – Common.
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis – Two of them flew over La Campana in Chile. Then that
amazing one that zoomed over the pond near Jocoli in Mendoza was superb.
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus cassini – Two over the hill at Viña Montes in Chile. Then
another over the Jocoli pond which chose to perch for scope views. The subspecies cassini is a
southern South American breeder, it resembles anatum from the North.
Psittacidae (Parrots)
Burrowing Parakeet
Cyanoliseus patagonus byroni
– Believe it or not the
Chilean subspecies of the
Burrowing Parrot is
threatened! You would never
know it given the amazing
show we had. That was
amazing, gorgeous, fantastic,
magic….just spectacular. I
think we all were overjoyed
to spend such quality time
with such incredible birds,
both adults and youngsters.
Austral Parakeet Enicognathus ferrugineus – Great views in the Vilches area of Chile.
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus – Introduced in Chile where common in urban areas.
We also had great views in Argentina where they are native; the best were nesting right
outside the restaurant with the biggest steaks in the world.
Mountain Parakeet Psilopsiagon aurifrons – That show in the Yeso Valley was unprecedented.
I had never seen so many there, repeatedly going over, being vocal and landing for folks to
see them like that. This is not a common bird, usually it is rather uncommon.
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira – Common in Mendoza.
Strigidae (Owls)
Great Horned [Magellanic] Owl Bubo virginianus magellanicus – Due to its very different
vocalization and relatively small feet, this is certainly a species different from the Great
Horned Owl. Thanks Mike for spotting that bird as we came down from lunch and wine!
What super views they were.
Rufous-legged Owl Strix rufipes – We got pretty lucky with this one, as it can be a difficult
species to find. The Rufous-legged Owl is related closely to the Barred and Spotted owls,
although it takes more closed forest like the Spotted. They also sound like weird monkey
when the call!
Austral Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nana – We heard them only at first, but then got lucky with
one at La Campana National Park. That one allowed for scope views as it sat in the middle
of the day calling away.
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia – Common north of Mendoza in sandy soils, frequent in
Chile.
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris – Another lucky break was spotting a fly by
Band-winged Nightjar on our way back to the hotel in vilches. Then the nice way that bird
just perched there for us to enjoy was the way we like it!
Apodidae (Swifts)
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus – Nice views in Mendoza.
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
Green-backed Firecrown Sephanoides sephaniodes –The forest based hummingbird in Chile.
We saw them well eventually, although they can be a bugger to get a view of, and we did see
the fire crown.
Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganura – I think that in the end we all had good views of this
fantastic hummingbird in Mendoza. Still ranks right up there as one of the most beautiful of
all hummingbirds for me.
White-sided Hillstar Oreotrochilus leucopleurus – They were abundant this year, or perhaps at
this time of year on the Chilean side. We had nice views in the Yeso Valley.
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas – Several people saw this species fly by, while others
missed it. Then we had that one, you remember The One, which came right up to us and
fed on those tall flowers in La Campana National Park. What an amazing view of the world’s
largest hummingbird.
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon lucidus – Frequent in Potrerillos area Mendoza.
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum - This is one of my favorite woodpeckers, I
am not sure why. I like the way it is sneaky and quiet, and quite pretty when you get to see
it. In much of the range it is closely associated with cactus. Where we saw it north of
Mendoza it may be the farthest southwest the species gets. A nice find.
Striped Woodpecker Veniliornis lignarius – Nice views in Chile, Vilches and La Campana.
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros – Common in Mendoza.
Chilean Flicker Colaptes pitius – Many were found in Chile.
Magellanic Woodpecker
Campephilus magellanicus –
Yes, a highlight if there ever
was one! This is a fantastic
woodpecker, and we saw
those three for what seemed
to be hours, we even saw
them get upset at a hawk
that was nearby. We heard
them call, we had them
double-knock in front of us,
display their wing
stripe…essentially we saw
them do it all. What an
absolute pleasure of a visit it was with the Magellanic Woodpeckers of Vilches.
Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos)
Crested Gallito Rhinocrypta lanceolada – This is the tapaculo that gave the family the
Scientific Name! Rhino-crypta means hidden nose due to the classic sheath over the nostrils
found in tapaculos. We had some great views near Potrerillos, and heard one in San Juan.
*Sandy Gallito Teledromas fuscus – How frustrating it was to hear but not be able to see these
shy tapaculos. We gave it a good try, but they were just not all that responsive. This was on
the side road through the shrubby desert north of Mendoza.
*Chestnut-throated Huet-huet Pteroptochos castaneus – These birds are tough in most
circumstances, but we also had some poor luck with them. Usually at least one is interested
in coming in, but not this time. We heard them in Vilches.
Moustached Turca Pteroptochos megapodius – Wow, spectacular views of the largest of all
tapaculos. Fortunately this is one that does like to come out and play. We saw the turca in
the Yeso Valley, and at La Campana.
White-throated Tapaculo Scelorchilus albicollis – Usually this is the toughest of all tapaculos
to find. We dipped at Mahuida, but La Camapana came through with an individual that
gave us a run for our money, but did reveal itself to most of the gang.
*Chucao Tapaculo Scelorchilus rubecula – Heard only in Vilches.
Magellanic Tapaculo Scytalopus magellanicus – Great views of one individual by a stream at
Vilches. He ran like a mouse, it is amazing to see the little tapaculos do their rodent
behavior!
Dusky Tapaculo - PN La Campana, Chile.
Dusky Tapaculo Scytalopus fuscus – This one performed for us at La Campana, another one
of the Chilean endemics, it is also sometimes one of the more inquisitive of the tapaculos.
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
[Cliff] Rufous-banded Miner Geositta r. rufipennis – This is the Rufous-banded Miner in the
lower areas of the mountains in Mendoza. It has a different song that the one higher up, I
am currently working on research that will hopefully convince scientists that two species are
involved.
[Alpine] Rufous-banded Miner Geositta rufipennis fasciata – This is the only Rufous-banded
Miner in Chile, and the one in the higher parts of the Mendozas Andes. We had superb vies
of it.
White-throated Treerunner Pygarrhichas albogularis – A pretty common species in the forests
of vilches, also seen at La Campana NP.
Straight-billed Earthcreeper Ochetorhynchus ruficaudus – Wow. Our lunch time detour from
Uspallata allowed us close up and personal views of this close relative of the Crag Chilia.
Crag Chilia Ochetorhynchus melanurus – Great views, after missing it at our go to spot, a bit
higher up in the Yeso Valley. Once we found that group of three, they performed. This is a
Chilean endemic.
Patagonian Forest Earthcreeper Upucerthia saturatior – Rather unexpected was that folks
found one of these guys, and photographed it at our hotel in the Mendoza foothills. This
may in fact be the first record for this species in Mendoza. This is not all that surprising since
this form had not been considered a species until recently.
Scale-throated Earthcreeper Upucerthia dumetaria – Good views of a couple of these long
billed furnariids in the Yeso Valley.
Buff-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus – Nice views up the Yeso Valley, this species was
until recently lumped with another Cinclodes and called the Bar-winged Cinclodes.
Gray-flanked Cinclodes Cinclodes oustaleti – The ecology of this cinclodes is unique. It
breeds up in the Alpine zone of the Andes, and spends the non-breeding season on the
ocean’s shore. We saw them during this transition, with several birds up in the Yeso Valley
and two different birds on the coast in Reñaca and Cachagua.
Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus – One along a stream in the Vilches area.
Seaside Cinclodes Cinclodes nigrofumosus – Another Chilean endemic, this is a marine
songbird! It lives, eats, breeds and hangs out along rocks on the ocean’s side. We saw them
both in Reñaca and Cachagua.
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus – Common in Argentina; their nests are absolutely amazing.
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops – It took a while to see one of these, but we did on
the last day at Lampa.
Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda – Common in the forest zone in Vilches. A
crowd favorite.
Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura fuliginiceps – Nice views of this tit-spinetail in the
desert near Potrerillos. This is about as far south as this species makes it.
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura aegithaloides – Observed both in Chile and
Argentina. There is marked geographic variation in this species, the ones in Chile were the
race aegithaloides, while the ones in Argentina were pallida.
Creamy-breasted Canastero Asthenes dorbignyi – A couple were in the valley near Potrerillos.
This species is part of a taxonomic mess and various other species, or subspecies depending
on how you look at them, often considered under this name.
*Short-billed Canastero Asthenes baeri – Heard only north of Mendoza city.
Sharp-billed Canastero Asthenes pyrrholeuca – We had a good view of this long tailed
canastero at the pond near Jocoli.
Dusky-tailed Canastero Pseudasthenes humicola – The first endemic species we saw, at
Mahuida above Santiago. We also heard them at the Montes wintery.
Steinbach's Canastero Pseudasthenes steinbachi – An Argentine endemic we saw nicely in the
Potrerillos area. Although similar to the Creamy-breasted Canastero in look, it is actually
distantly related to it.
Brown Cacholote Pseudoseisura lophotes – Super views at Jocoli while we got our tire fixed!
White-throated Cacholote Pseudoseisura gutturalis – Not seen by all in the group, but some
folks got on one in San Juan.
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
White-crested [Chilean] Elaenia Elaenia albiceps chilensis – Common in Chile, and a few
were also found in the highlands of Argentina. Some of the birds were in desert areas and
were in active migration.
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant
Anairetes flavirostris – Several
in the Mendoza area, bolder
in pattern than the Tufted
TT.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes
parulus – Common in Chile,
and also seen in Argentina.
White-bellied Tyrannulet
Serpophaga munda – Several
in the Potrerillos area,
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Mendoza, Argentina.
including one calling away
up high in a pine tree.
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides – This is a stunning and appealing little
tyrant! We had superb views in San Juan.
Many-colored Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra – We only saw this marsh dweller in Chile,
there were juveniles and molty adults, but what a cool little flycatcher. Another crowd
favorite.
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus – This widespread species was not expected, as it
is generally found farther east, but we are still learning the distribution of some of these
species in this part of Argentina. The Argentine Vermilion Flycatchers are migratory!
Austral Negrito Lessonia rufa - Common at Colbun Lake in Chile, another couple were at
Lampa. These birds migrate north in the winter, and likely some of these were moving
already.
White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus – A nice male was in the Potrerillos area.
Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus – It seemed that everywhere we saw them; they
were females or juveniles, both in Chile and Argentina. Some folks did get on a male though.
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris – Only in Argentina, one in
Potrerillos and another near Uspallata.
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex – A family group, the young had no
rusty on the cap, was north of Uspallata.
White-browed Ground-Tyrant
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora – the common ground tyrant on this
tour, we saw them in Chile and Argentina.
Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola frontalis – Several were seen well in the Yeso
Valley, this ground tyrant is the one that is found highest up in elevation.
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montanus – Three, count them, three different Blackbilled Shrike-Tyrants on our day up in the Yeso Valley.
Great Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis lividus – One flew over La Campana National park. This
species is actually quite difficult to find.
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope – Common on the Chilean side where they were actively
migrating while we were there.
Black-crowned Monjita Xolmis coronatus – One was seen distantly in the scope in San Juan.
This is a migrant bird which breeds to the south in northern Patagonia.
White Monjita Xolmis
irupero – WOW, that a bird!
A white flycatcher is not
something you see every day.
The one we saw was in San
Juan.
*Patagonian Tyrant
Colorhamphus parvirostris –
We heard it but could not
find it, at Vilches.
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis
White Monjita in Argentina
rixosa – Several in the
lowlands of Mendoza.
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus – Relatively common in the Argentinean side; they are
actually migratory in part of Argentina. How a pudgy bird like that migrates is anyone’s
guess.
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus – Common in Argentina, also a migrant here.
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana – Only a few were about, most appeared to have
gone south already. We did find one adult feeding a young in Potrerillos.
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila – There are three species of plantcutter in the
world, and we saw two of them on this trip. The third is found in coastal Peru. The Whitetipped was the species we saw in the Media Agua area in San Juan, Argentina.
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Phytotoma rara – This is the plantcutter in Chile which we saw
well in the Vilchez area.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca – Common in both countries.
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera – Two near Jocoli.
Chilean Swallow Tachycineta meyeni – Common in Chile.
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
[Southern] House Wren Troglodytes aedon [musculus] – Common in both countries. Future
work will likely find that the House Wren is made up of several species, probably more than
just northern and southern, for the time being it is all up in the air.
Sedge [Grass] Wren Cistothorus p. platensis – We saw this wren at the mouth of the Maipo
River. Currently these are classified as the same species as the Sedge Wren from North
America, however they differ in every way. They sound different, they act different, they
look different, everything is different. Eventually they will be separated as a species, but for
now the wrens are accumulating more mysteries than answers.
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii- Common in Chile.
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus – Two in the Jocoli area of Mendoza.
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco – Uncommon in the Potrerillos area. These are of the
southern form, anthracinus, which may be split from chiguanco in the future.
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
Chilean Mockingbird Mimus thenca – A Chilean endemic which was seen commonly in
Chile.
Patagonian Mockingbird Mimus patagonicus – Relatively common in desert shrub land in the
Argentine foothills.
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus – Somewhat unexpected was this species
which we saw near one of the wineries in Mendoza. There were four in a family group, so
they nest here too.
White-banded Mockingbird Mimus triurus – What a beautiful bird this is! We had
fantabulous views of one at Jocoli. This is a migrant which breeds farther south.
Motacillidae (Pipits & Wagtails)
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera – Several were observed in Chile, in Lampa as well as the
mouth of the Maipo River.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis – Several in Potrerillos, most of us saw females
although at least one male flew by.
Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies)
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis – Common throughout the trip, the highland
birds are larger, longer winged and more grayish on the crown, and brighter and more
colorful on the collar colors.
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi – Common in the highlands of both Chile and
Argentina. At La Campana National Park we saw the subspecies minor, which is brighter and
has more yellow on the underparts than gayi. The form minor also prefers more forested
areas, not open spots like gayi. In every way minor is like the Patagonian Sierra-Finch and I
have the hypothesis that it in fact is a northern form of Patagonian, not a coastal form of
Gray-hooded!
Black-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus atriceps – It was a bit of a surprise to see three
youngsters of this species north of Uspallata. But this was a place where I had seen this
species before.
Patagonian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus patagonicus – A forests based hooded sierra-finch which is
brighter in plumage and more extensively Bellow below than the Gray-hooded. This species
showed up nicely in the Vilches area in Chile.
Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti – This large sierra-finch we saw at the Yeso Valley
and on our way across the Andes into Argentina.
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor – Some folks saw one in the Yeso Valley.
Common Diuca-Finch Diuca diuca – Common in Chile, also in Argentina in the dry areas
north of Mendoza, and in the dry valley north of Uspallata.
Ringed Warbling-Finch Poospiza torquata – One near Media Agua in San Juan, Argentina.
Greater Yellow-Finch Sicalis auriventris – Common near the crossing between the two
countries.
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola – Many north of Mendoza.
Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola – Many in Chilean lowlands, also a big migratory
flock near Jocoli in Mendoza.
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis olivascens – Common Mendoza, this is the western
form which at times has been considered to be a different species, the Olive Pampa-Finch.
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens – Several in the Jocoli area, Mendoza.
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis – In Potrerillos, Mendoza.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis – A few in the lowlands of Mendoza. Recent
information suggests that this southern population may be a separate species from more
northern ones, I have heard the name Southern Yellowthroat applied to it.
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus – Common in Chile.
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius – Only seen in marshes on the Chilean side.
Ecologically similar to the Red-winged Blackbird of North America, but actually not so
closely related.
Bay-winged Cowbird Agelaioides badius – Several in Potrerillos as well as in the lowlands in
Mendoza.
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis – This species becomes a little less common in the fall,
but we did find small numbers in both Argentina and Chile.
Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca – Common in both countries.
White-browed Blackbird Sturnella superciliaris – Several were found at Jocoli, Mendoza. I
had not expected this species this far west, but there it was!
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
Hooded Siskin Sporagra magellanica – Common on the Argentine side.
Yellow-rumped Siskin Sporagra uropygialis – Many were in the Yeso Valley where we had
great views, also on the way up towards Argentina.
Black-chinned Siskin Sporagra barbata – Many in the forested parts of Chile, in the Vilches
area.
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
House Sparrow Passer domesticus – Common in all urban areas.
Mammals
Small bat sp? Myotis sp. – The smaller bats while owling at Vilches.
Large bat sp? Lasiurus sp. – The larger bats while owling at Vilches.
European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus – Few seen, Chile and Argentina.
Southern Yellow-toothed Cavy (Guinea Pig) Galea musteloides – The guinea pigs seen at the
hotel in Potrerillos.
Southern Mountain Cavy Microcavia australis – The little pale guinea pigs with eye rings
north of Uspallata.
Dusky Dolphin Lagenorhynchus obscurus – A nice group on the pelagic! That was a treat, we
seldom see dolphins on this cruise.
Southern Grey Fox Pseudalopex griseus – This fox showed up twice, one of them at La
Campana NP.
Culpeo Fox Pseudalopex culpaeus – This was the larger sick looking fox at La Campana.
Southern Sea Lion Otaria byronia – These are huge sea lions, the males are absolutely
gigantic with big heads. We saw several on our time on the coast, including a bunch of them
on the big white rock near Reñaca.