Last of a kind, now extinct on the Strobel Plateau one of its core breeding areas, there are fewer than 800 Hooded Grebes left. We were
extremely lucky to find this stunning pair (John Hopkins, tour participant)
SOUTHERN & CENTRAL ARGENTINA
19 NOVEMBER – 4/9 DECEMBER 2014
LEADER: MARK PEARMAN
An absolutely scorching close-up pair of displaying Hooded Grebes raising their crests, with synchronized
neck twists and water paddling at THE glorious eleventh hour was the golden moment of the tour. We count
ourselves very lucky and for many it was a lifetime experience. This came nicely off the back of an almost
perfect string of goodies starting in Córdoba with Cordoba and Olrog’s Cinclodes, as well as Spot-winged
Falconet, Blue-tufted Starthroat and the wonderful endemic Salinas Monjita, before birding the Pampas
southwards. Top birds there included the outrageous Straight-billed Reedhaunter, unbelievable walk-about
views of both Red-and-white and Dot-winged Crakes (as in 2013), dozens of wonderful South American
Painted Snipe flying from our feet, not to mention the declining Pampas Meadowlark and other quality
Pampas birds such as Hudson’s Canastero, Bearded Tachuri and Pampas Pipit. Moving south, a bunch of
Argentine endemic breeders, some with erratic austral migrations, can prove tricky, but this year we had no
problems in obtaining point blank views of Hudson’s Black-Tyrant, White-throated Cacholote, Sandy Gallito
(displaying!), Cinnamon Warbling-Finch, Carbonated Sierra-Finch, Patagonian Canastero and Straneck’s
Tyrannulet. The Southern Right Whales were yet another highlight as we soaked up the atmosphere of the
Valdes Peninsula, along with the endemic Patagonian Mara, Band-tailed Earthcreeper and the endemic
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Rusty-backed Monjita and nearby local endemic Chubut Steamer-Duck. Further south after being awestruck
by the vast Perito Moreno Glacier, the major highlights of the Santa Cruz circuit included Patagonian
Tinamou, Ruddy-headed Goose, Spectacled Duck, Magellanic Plover, Lesser Horned Owl, Magellanic
Woodpecker and White-bridled Finch, plus all of the more regular Patagonian specialties commonly found in
both the forest and steppe. Mammals were another highlight with 19 species seen; unusually including five
write-ins, among which perhaps Yellow-sided Opossum was quite a find, not to mention daylight views of
Magellanic Tuco Tuco .
The extension was also a great success with 15 additional species seen, including the highlight of point
blank walk-away views of White-bellied Seedsnipe, a variety of seabirds and seaducks, plus a superb adult
King Penguin in a breeding colony of Gentoos.
In all, some 336 species were seen by a great group who really knew how to enjoy this wilderness
experience.
The tour began in the central Argentine city of Córdoba from where we quickly transferred to the village of
Icho Cuz in the foothills of the Sierras Grandes. We were greeted at the door of our hotel by stonking views
of the outrageous Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper and the first of many boisterous Brown Cacholotes at one of
its distinctive huge nests. Nearby woodlands provided plenty of activity and we quickly connected with Palebreasted, Sooty-fronted and Stripe-crowned Spinetails, Short-billed Canastero, Green-barred Woodpecker,
Campo Flicker, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, the handsome Many-coloured Chaco-Finch, Small-billed Elaenia,
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, White-bellied Tyrannulet, delightful Tawny-headed Swallows, a stunning male Blueand-yellow Tanager, Golden-billed Saltator and fantastic Blue-tufted Starthroats. Ian got us onto the resident
cassini race of Peregrine which was carrying a large prey item, and most managed brief views of a secretive
Spot-backed Puffbird. Higher in the foothills we immediately focused on several Firewood Gatherers, the
likeable Lark-like Brushrunner, White Monjita and the scarce local form of Buff-necked Ibis to round off a
memorable first day.
We awoke to rain, low cloud, dense fog, and freezing wind, which set in for the day and was very unusual for
the time of year. Such were the conditions that we drove straight over the Sierras Grandes to instead first
bird the sierran chaco woodlands of Nono. Soon we scoped up our first well-behaved Blue-crowned
Parakeets, followed by several unusually obliging Andean Slaty-Thrushes, the delightful Brown-capped
Whitestart while some managed to see Black-backed Grosbeak. But of course our main targets were back
up the mountain and the weather was not improving. A first stop produced Ash-breasted and Plumbeous
Sierra-Finches together with White-winged Cinclodes and Long-tailed Meadowlark. At 2100 m. in dreadful
weather we scored our first of several endemic Cordoba Cinclodes followed literally by a Puna Canastero
and eventually Olrog’s Cinclodes.
Still raining, we embarked on the long journey to the Salinas Grandes where we quickly found several perky
Black-crested Finches, Suiriri Flycatcher, Chaco Earthcreeper, White-tipped Plantcutter and Ringed
Warbling-Finch when our driver suddenly hit soft mud and the inevitable happened before we knew it. One
bird was of course a major target of the tour and we had no choice but to walk out to the Salinas, luckily only
some 4 or so km each way to be greeted by the superb and very localized endemic Salinas Monjita, giving
up point blank views. Here too we added local forms of Patagonian Mockingbird and Lesser Shrike-Tyrant as
temperatures started to rise.
With the bus driven out by Jim, the birding was still prolific as we connected with Checkered and Whitefronted Woodpeckers, a fantastic pair of long awaited Spot-winged Falconets, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper,
Crested Horneros at their nest and Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant. In the late afternoon we birded the
sierran chaco woodlands near Capilla del Monte although their was little activity with our first Chilean Elaenia
while an Andean Condor caused some excitement.
Back in the superb forest of Capilla del Monte, the birds came thick and fast soon after dawn with Pearlyvented Pygmy Tyrant, Variable Antshrike, Black-capped and smart Black-and-chestnut Warbling-Finch,
Swainson’s Flycatcher, fantastic prolongued looks at a close perched male Rufous-thighed Hawk, Whitebarred Piculet, a pair of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls, Red-eyed Vireo, Hooded Siskin, Southern Yellowthroat, a
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pair of Scimitar-billed Woodcreepers foraging on the ground and outstanding views of Andean Tinamou
walking around in the open. Heading for Cordoba airport, we crossed over the sierras chicas, adding Bandtailed Seedeater, Grassland Yellow-Finch, close up Long-tailed Meadowlark and Hellmayr’s Pipit.
Back in Buenos Aires, our next port of call was Otamendi in the Parana Delta where we our prime target was
the very local Straight-billed Reedhaunter. It proved tricky and took considerable searching before one
suddenly popped up and sang for a short period, showing off it’s extraordinary dagger-like bill. In the
meantime we got to grips with the not so closely related Curve-billed Reedhaunter, stunning Long-winged
Harrier, Snail Kite, Plumbeous Rail, Picazuro Pigeon, Gilded Sapphire, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Frecklebreasted Thornbird, skulking Spix’s Spinetail, fluorescent Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Yellow-winged
Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White-winged
Becard, Sayaca Tanager, Long-tailed Reedfinch, Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch and Greyish Saltator as
increasingly large numbers of White-faced Ibis and small numbers of Bare-faced Ibis crossed the sky. Here
too we managed a brief vew of Dusky-legged Guan, a close female Rufous-thighed Hawk fly-by, a surprise
Large Elaenia and a very obliging Ash-coloured Cuckoo. Our visit to the Castanera Sur reserve in the
afternoon was unfortunately heaving with people on a hot bank holiday Sunday although we did manage to
add our first Silver Teal and Rosy-billed Pochards, Pied-billed Grebe, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Common
Gallinule, White-winged and Red-gartered Coot, Wattled Jacana and Nanday Parakeet.
Heading south to La Plata, the first target of the day was the stunning Red-and-white Crake which obliged
extremely well, one giving up protracted views as it foraged. Moving on towards San Clemente several stops
produced Black-necked Swan, White-faced and Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, Chiloe Wigeon, Cinnamon Teal,
Red Shoveler, White-cheeked Pintail, White-tufted Grebe, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Brown-hooded and Greyheaded Gulls, and Snowy-crowned Tern while Greater Rheas became increasingly common. Now in the
heart of the pampas, a decent patch of climax grassland provided us with our first Correndera Pipit, the
scarce Hudson’s Canastero and an unexpected smart male Beardced Tachuri undertaking high display
flights. A final stop produced Black-headed Duck, Red Shoveler, Lake Duck, Red-fronted Coot, Buffbreasted Sandpiper, the skulking Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, Wren-like Rushbird and delightful Many
coloured Rush-Tyrant.
As we walked through the Spartina saltmarsh, the diminutive Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail was one of the first
birds of the day, giving itself away by its grasshopper-like trilling. We were hoping for a repeat performance
of Dot-winged Crake on the deck as on the 2013 tour, and were not to be disappointed. Once located by
voice after about an hour, it was a straight forward manouevre and we all eventually obtained multiple views
of an excited bird. Put into perspective, we did the double again with point blank views of two of South
America’s toughest crakes in consecutive days; a completely unheard of feat until 2013 and still unsung by
other companies. A number of Swainson’s Hawks were foraging overhead on clouds of dragonflies as we
headed to the beach to add our first American Oystercatchers, Semipalmated Plovers, Hudsonian Godwits,
White-rumped and Baird’s Sandpipers, Royal, Cabot’s and Common Terns and a lone Black Skimmer. Back
in town we watched an obliging White-throated Hummingbird and nearby, scoped a variety of first year
Olrog’s Gulls which had been eluding us, and a lone Black Skimmer. Time for a painted snipe bash, and
almost as soon as the now welly clad crew got out of the bus, off flew the first South American Painted
Snipe. It was an extraordinary day for them, as they were coming out underfoot from the marsh in amazing
numbers. Here too we secured the expected Short-billed Pipit and Warbling Doradito
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The endemic Salinas Monjita World range is some low sueda bordering a few salt lakes (left; Frank Hummel). A gorgeous
South American Painted-Snipe, one of many after an influx into a flooded area (right; John Hopkins)
Driving west we had to get some distance in today, but still managed a variety of stops. For insurance
purposes we pulled into the huge port of Mar del Plata and scoped up three Snowy Sheathbills far from the
Sea Lion hauling ground. Driving on, a surprise pair of Burrowing Parrots were much farther north than the
usual range at this time of year. Two roadside Red-winged Tinamous were found by our switched on driver
Juan and we also managed several Spotted Nothuras and a couple of White-tailed Kites. Down at the Bahia
Blanca estuary we updated our juvenile Olrog’s Gulls for splendid adults, busily catching crabs. Here too we
connected with our first striking White-banded Mockingbird, an endemic breeder.
Our main reason for visiting the Bahia Blanca region was to track down the seriously endangered and
seemingly declining Pampas Meadowlark. As we headed out through a mix of crops and natural grasslands
we were soon distracted by our first trios of Elegant Crested Tinamou, a female Cinereous Harrier and a pair
of remarkable and characterful endemic maras, sitting on their haunches and then trotting around a field, as
they do. Suddenly we connected with two displaying male Pampas Meadowlarks in all their glory, right
beside the vehicle and enjoyed prolonged views. It was just as well since we found no more. Both Pampas
and Short-billed Pipits proved to be common although we only managed to watch them during their long
display flights.
Pesticide use and overgrazing have severely affected the endangered Pampas Meadowlark (left; John Hopkins). Southern
Right Whale performing at the Valdés Peninsula (right; Mark Pearman)
Moving on to a tract of Caldén woodland, our targets fell one by one with good numbers of Hudson’s BlackTyrants and Straneck’s Tyrannulets, both endemic breeders. Amazingly we found two more Ash-coloured
Cuckoos here, plus a Dark-billed Cuckoo. Heading south we started to see several Variable Hawks including
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two active nests, increasingly large numbers of Burrowing Parrots and our first Austral Thrushes in Las
Grutas.
In the still of the morning our first White-throated Cacholote gave walk-away views at its nest, followed by
several White-winged Black Tyrants, Yellow billed Tit-Tyrant, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Plain-mantled TitSpinetail, Mourning Sierra-Finch and the endemic Sandy Gallito with one performing its wing rotating display.
Driving south, numerous displaying Carbonated Sierra-Finches dotted the endless steppe. Our first Lesser
Rheas involved a small party of six (with hundreds to come) as we drove onto the Valdes Peninsula. After
settling in, we were soon off on our whaling adventure. Southern Right Whales were plentiful in the golf, and
we had multiple close-ups from our boat of adults and young with much tail flukeing and one full breach.
Here too we saw our first Imperial Shag and many Rock Shags, some nesting. Finally, we made a specific
search for Darwins Nothura, flushing two calling birds at close range.
A gusty day on the Valdés Peninsula didn’t dampen our enthusiasm and we covered a lot of ground in
search of our targets. First to fall was the near-endemic Band-tailed Earthcreeper with a pair showing
splendidly. With ever increasing numbers of Maras and Elegant Crested-Tinamous, we rolled up to five
smart endemic Rusty-backed Monjitas, our first Two-banded Plover and Common Miners. A roadside pool
held our first Crested Ducks and an Upland Goose. A male Patagonian Yellow-Finch performed nicely, as
we enjoyed hoards of Elephant Seals and Southern Giant Petrels, and nesting Magellanic Penguins. Our
relentless attempts to find the endemic Patagonian Canastero finally paid off when one came out of hiding. A
nearby Sea Lion hauling ground produced the expected Dolphin Gull, Blackish Oystercatcher and a last
minute Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant carrying food, rounding off a fulfilling day.
Soon after dawn a Darwin’s Nothura crossed the road putting a smile on John’s face. Punta Tombo and its
vast Magellanic Penguin colony beckoned. Apart from the magic of walking through such a large colony, the
top bird was four pairs of endemic Chubut Steamer-Duck including protracted views. Here too we watched
Large Hairy Armadillo, Sharp-billed Canastero, our first Austral Negrito, Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch and
marauding Brown Skuas. In the afternoon we retreated to Trelew sewage lagoons where although nothing
new was added, the numbers of ducks, coots and waders was nontheless impressive. Not so impressive
was the smell.
Restricted to Chubut province, the Chubut Steamer-Duck is flightless and was only described new to
science in 1981 (John Hopkins)
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After three driving days from Buenos Aires we were still in northern Patagonia. Here we boarded a two hour
flight by jet southwards over the largely uninhabited, desolate steppe to the isolated town of El Calafate. Our
search for Magellanic Plover proved tougher than usual with a long walk in increasing wind. A Cinnamonbellied Ground Tyrant alleviated the search effort until finally we were rewarded with outstanding close-up
walk-away views of two adult and two juvenile Magellanic Plovers; fantastic to have such a comparison and
at such close range. Our first Andean Duck was duly scoped as well as Black-faced Ibis and Magellanic
Oystercatcher as we headed out of town to find good numbers of Rufous-banded Miner, Grey-breasted
Seedsnipe and a Cordilleran Canastero, not to mention an Andean Condor. Magellanic Tuco-tucos were
strangely out of their burrows showing off their pink incisors, and providing a surprise mammal write-in for
the tour.
Our full day at the Glacier national park went like a dream and our targets fell at a steady pace. We quickly
connected with Chilean Flicker, Austral Pygmy-Owl, Austral Parakeet, Fire-eyed Diucon, Black-chinned
Siskin and Patagonian Sierra-Finch which all obliged for scope views. And who could forget the perky Thorntailed Rayadito, one of the commonest and striking birds of the Patagonian forest. Next on the agenda, we
quickly scored a glowing male Rufous-tailed Plantcutter in its Firebush lare, spurting a rachety dalek phrase,
while staring us out with its beady red eye. Dark-faced Ground-Tyrants and Dark-bellied Cinclodes were
picked up along the way, as Andean Condors and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles sailed overhead. The
outstanding Spectacled Duck was encountered on three opportunities with many memorable scope studies.
It’s the classic bird you see with your Dad at Slimbridge and then spend most of your life wondering when
you’ll see another. We had to work a little to get reasonable views of Magellanic Tapaculo and Whitethroated Treerunner also gave us a merry dance, but they were well worth the effort. Then, just as we came
off a boardwalk, a male Magellanic Woodpecker slid around a close trunk into full view. With our group
spread out, some mild panic set in as the bird flew off over the heads of several tourists, and birders started
running. Fortunately, just around the corner the bird reappeared and this time it was on the ground, when a
female flew into the nearest tree, and we enjoyed jaw-dropping views of the pair. One of the rarer finds of the
day was a White-browed Ground-Tyrant, scarce at this latitude, and thanks to Ian. Finally we homed in on a
pair of Ashy-headed Geese just outside town while South American Snipe, of the Magellanic variety,
displayed overhead. All that was left for us to do was celebrate the day with a most memorable lamb asado
and fine Malbec.
Two more unmistakable Patagonian endemics, the Spectacled Duck and Magellanic Woodpecker (Mark Pearman)
We set out early towards the Strobel Plateau, now thankfully paved for most of the route. Of course we had
already travelled through wilderness in La Pampa, Rio Negro and Chubut but not like this. Today we would
only see four vehicles on the main road, and three of those were at road workings. We never saw a person
on foot or horse and the only service station for 500 km was closed. A first stop provided us with a lone
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Least Seedsnipe were flying off in all directions from the unpaved sections of
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the road. Once on the desolate plateau, we started to see numerous handsome Tawny-throated Dotterels,
mind-blowing Chocolate-vented Tyrants and drab, yet interesting, Short-billed Miners when suddenly we
jammed into a pair of close Patagonian Tinamou which was a real treat, being one of the toughest blockers
of all the Patagonian endemics. It was unexpected here but not much relief in our ever more struggling
search for Hooded Grebe. Numerous suitable breeding lakes were completely dry, and those that had water
were turgid and unsuitable. One promising lake had plenty of Silvery Grebes but no sign of the boy. So,
descending the plateau we checked out Tonci lake to find plentiful Andean Ducks and some Silvery Grebes
as our game plan for seeing Hooded Grebe was falling apart. We settled in to the cozy and homely estancia
La Angostura and soon set off in search of Lesser Horned Owl, scoring easily with point blank walk-away
views, a most handsome beast! A marsh bash saw much activity of breeding Cinereous Harriers and two
brief aural records of Austral Rail which would have been normal for that time of day. With nothing to lose we
ventured back to Tonci lake and there were still no Hooded Grebes [of course], although strangely now a
Franklin’s Gull had arrived which is a vagrant in these parts. Many birds come and go from this lake, so
miracles can sometimes happen, but not today, .. not today!
Patagonian Tinamou is virtually endemic to Argentine Patagonia and very difficult to find (left; John Hopkins). Restricted to Patagonia
and the southern Andes, a striking Magellanic (or Lesser) Horned Owl (Mark Pearman)
At dawn then, we were out in full force moving around the marsh to check out Austral Rail territories and to
find new ones with a total of seven birds heard. Many of us experienced a welly full of icy water or worse
slop, but try as we could the rails were unusually very quiet and would not show, conceivably taped-out or so
frightened of harriers to venture to the edge of the rushes. Together with our lack of Hooded Grebes, we
were at the rock bottom; infact this was the only low point of the tour. It was a bitter pill to swallow and all we
could do would be to make one last check of Tonci before the major drive to Rio Gallegos. Parking up at the
by-now-very-familiar-lake (get the hyphens in), we started to scan through the Silvery Grebes when Jane
mentioned that there were some more black-and-white looking grebes. She was not wrong, and before we
knew it a lone pair of Hooded Grebes were actually swimming towards us. Incredibly, they displayed for a
while at fairly close range as the expressions on our faces changed one by one, trying to take in this magical
yet tragic moment, as we knew that all the closest breeding lakes were dry. I’ve no idea how long we
watched those grebes, nor why such a distinctively plumaged and “hooded” grebe should be restricted to
such a remote place, but we lived that moment to its full, enjoying the spectacle.
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Displaying Hooded Grebes are a very rare sight these days (John Hopkins)
Elated, we had a long drive which meant peanuts to us by now. Seven hours later, on the outskirts of Rio
Gallegos we first scoped a family of Flying Steamer-Ducks and then immediately scored an Austral
Canastero providing close views, before heading out along the peninsula towards Cabo Virgenes, the
extreme tip of the South American mainland. Fantastic male White-bridled Finches provided that startling
flash of yellow against the even lower pallid grass steppe at this latitude, and crippling Rufous-chested
Dotterel also obliged in fine form at a regular stake-out. Driving on, we finally reached an area where the only
pair of Ruddy-headed Goose on the peninsula might be hanging out. After quite a search we eventually
enjoyed decent scope views of this declining species to round off what proved to be a spectacular and
fulfilling tour.
In the morning we said our goodbyes as the group split in two for the extension. Driving back to El Calafate,
the first treats of the extension were two different roadside Patagonian Hog-nosed Skunks, and three more
close Andean Condors. After flying to Ushuaia we soaked up the atmosphere of the Beagle Channel with
amazing birding on its shore just by stepping outside of our hotel. As Southern Giant-Petrels and Imperial
Shags cruised past, we could pick out two Southern Fulmars, one giving a close approach. Dolphin Gulls,
Chilean Skuas and Flying Steamer-Ducks were abundant, and we scrutinized the local, very different
looking, falklandicus race of Turkey Vulture.
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Later in the afternoon and next morning a nasty storm had been brewing which thwarted our intention of
trekking at the Garibaldi pass. But, with time on our hands, we had a look at the national park, soon adding
Tufted Tit-Tyrant and American Beaver. And at the city dump we scrutinized some twelve White-throated
Caracaras amongst the rabble of caracaras, gulls and skuas before we braced ourselves for another, almost
gale force, storm.
The storm had blown over by the early morning so we quickly set ourselves in place for a trek to the high
Fuegian Andes above the infamous Garibaldi Pass which many will know as the holy grail of the Whitebellied Seedsnipe, not to be confused with the Martial Glacier alias Dippers Paradise. Getting up through the
forest with patches of snow and ice was a little tough in places, but soon we got to grips with Buff-winged
and Grey-flanked Cinclodes, Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant and eventually Yellow-bridled Finch. Above the
treeline, conditions were variable but acceptable although with just three of us on such a big exposed slope
with large troughs of snow to cross, the task of finding the seedsnipe was daunting. After some four or so
hours of trekking, Mark noticed a familiar yet highly camouflaged shape, which was frozen still. Jim was
quick to get his first looks but it was time to give Terry a helping hand for the last 100 metres. Without a
doubt it was another mind-blowing experience of the tour, as we lapped up point blank views of a Whitebellied Seedsnipe that was convinced it couldn’t be seen. Back in town, the weather closed in again, and we
experienced a howling afternoon gale, watching Kelp Geese outside the front door of the hotel.
Our trek in the Fuegian Andes had a most handsome reward, the enigmatic White-bellied Seedsnipe (Mark Pearman)
Poor weather continued in the morning, with fresh snow on higher ground, so we were even more chuffed
that we had found the best window for the seedsnipe. In the afternoon the winds lulled and we set out on a
voyage along the Beagle Channel amidst dramatic scenery. Islands and islets were teaming with South
American Sea Lions, South American Terns, Imperial and Rock Shags plus plenty of Kelp Geese, Dolphin
Gulls and Snowy Sheathbills, a couple flying aboard our catamaran. We noted a thousand of so giant petrels
and nine Black-browed Albatross plus just one Magellanic Diving-Petrel not far from Ushuaia. Other
highlights were of course the penguins with thirty-eight breeding Gentoos in a three thousand strong
Magellanic Penguin colony, and a lone King Penguin in all its glory.
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A lone King Penguin, with breeding Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins on Martillo Island, Beagle Channel has appeared
during two summers for lucky visitors (Mark Pearman)
SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR
The species and family sequence, taxonomy and species names follow the I.O.C. World Bird List which is available online at www.worldbirdnames.org/ Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).
Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).
Species seen only by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).
Species that were only seen on the tour extension are marked with (X).
Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’
birds for some other reason (e.g. only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; difficult to see across all or most of its range;
the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).
Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa (H) Singles at the Salinas Grandes and Capilla del Monte.
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens 2 on the long drive to Bahia Blanca, thanks to our driver Juan.
Brushland Tinamou ◊ Nothoprocta cinerascens 4 at the Salinas Grandes, plus aural records elsewhere in Córdoba.
Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii Abundant by voice around Capilla del Monte with one seen in the open.
Darwin’s Nothura ◊ Nothura darwinii 2 near Las Grutas, and 4 out of Puerto Pirámides over two days, others heard.
Spotted Nothura Nothura maculosa 4 en route to Bahia Blanca.
Elegant Crested-Tinamou ◊ Eudromia elegans H in the Salinas Grandes, then common in Patagonia (40 in a day!).
Patagonian Tinamou ◊ Tinamotis ingoufi Point blank views of a pair on the Strobel Plateau.
Greater Rhea Rhea americana A common sight in the Pampas.
Lesser Rhea Rhea pennata Abundant from the Valdés Peninsula southwards.
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Southern Screamer Chauna torquata Regular encounters in the Pampas.
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Small numbers in the Pampas.
Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor Small numbers in the Pampas.
Coscoroba Swan ◊ Coscoroba coscoroba Regular, often in large numbers, up to 100 on one lake.
Black-necked Swan ◊ Cygnus melanocoryphus In good numbers on Pampean, Patagonian and Fuegian lakes.
Flying Steamer Duck ◊ Tachyeres patachonicus A pair with 5 chicks out of Rio Gallegos; abundant in the Beagle.
Fuegian Steamer Duck ◊ (Flightless/ Magellan S-D) Tachyeres pteneres (X) See note.
Chubut Steamer Duck ◊ (White-headed S D) Tachyeres leucocephalus 8 at and near Punta Tombo.
Upland Goose ◊ Chloephaga picta See note.
Kelp Goose ◊ Chloephaga hybrida (X) Seen daily along the Beagle Channel with a maximum of 40 by boat.
Ashy-headed Goose ◊ Chloephaga poliocephala 2 out of El Calafate, and 2 in Tierra del Fuego NP.
Ruddy-headed Goose ◊ Chloephaga rubidiceps A pair north of the Magellan Straits were perhaps the only pair!
Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides Common from Las Grutas southwards.
Bronze-winged Duck ◊ (Spectacled D) Speculanas specularis 7 at the Glacier NP.
Chiloe Wigeon ◊ Anas sibilatrix 6 en route to San Clemente, common from Bahia Blanca southwards.
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera 5 at Trelew sewage farm.
Red Shoveler ◊ Anas platalea The commonest duck of the tour, approx. 1400 at Trelew sewage lakes.
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis 4 out of San Clemente on two dates, 6 en route to Bahia Blanca.
Yellow-billed Teal (Speckled T) Anas flavirostris Regular encounters, all referable to the nominate race.
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Common throughout with 800 at the Trelew sewage lakes.
Silver Teal Anas versicolor Regular encounters.
Rosy-billed Pochard ◊ Netta peposaca Good numbers in the Pampas.
Black-headed Duck ◊ Heteronetta atricapilla 3 out of San Clemente.
Andean Duck (Andean Ruddy-D) Oxyura ferruginea 1 at El Calafate, 15 at Laguna Tonci.
Lake Duck ◊ (Argentine Ruddy-D) Oxyura vittata Regular encounters.
Dusky-legged Guan ◊ Penelope obscura Poor views of 1 flushed at Otamendi (nominate obscura).
King Penguin Aptenodytes patagonicus (X) 1 adult at the Gentoo colony in the Beagle Channel.
Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua (X) At least 38 on Martillo Island.
Magellanic Penguin ◊ Spheniscus magellanicus Many at the Valdes, Punta Tombo and in the Beagle Channel.
Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophrys (X) 9 along the Beagle Channel.
Southern Giant-Petrel (Common/ Antarctic G-P) Macronectes giganteus
Common at all coastal sites.
Southern Fulmar ◊ Fulmarus glacialoides (X) 2 and 1 along the Beagle Channel.
Magellanic Diving Petrel ◊ Pelecanoides magellani (X) 1 in the Beagle Channel.
Pied-billed Grebe Podilmbus podiceps 1 at Costanera Sur, 2 en route to San Clemente.
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia Rolland Common south to Trelew.
Great Grebe Podicephorus major Seen at regular intervals from San Clemente to Punta Tombo.
Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis 2 en route to San Clemente, 4 in Trelew, 35 or more at Laguna Tonci.
Hooded Grebe ◊ Podiceps gallardoi See note.
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Regular encounters of hundreds.
Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari: Common in the Pampas.
Buff-necked Ibis Theresticus caudatus A pair (possibly twice) and 5 in the Sierras Grandes, Cordoba.
Black-faced Ibis ◊ Theristicus melanopis Common in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego.
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus 17 at Otamendi and 10 en route to San Clemente.
White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi Abundant in the Pampas, 40 at Trelew sewage farm.
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja 17 en route to San Clemente where another 3 were seen.
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum An adult at Costanera Sur.
Stripe-backed Bittern ◊ Ixobrychus involucris (NL) See note.
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Small numbers in the Pampas.
Striated Heron Butorides striatus 2 on 2 occasions out of San Clemente.
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 50 during 3 days in the Pampas.
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi 3 out of San Clemente.
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Great Egret Ardea alba Regular south to the Valdés.
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix 1 out of San Clemente and 2 on the drive to Bahia Blanca.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Small to large numbers in the Pampas and 1 at Trelew sewage lakes.
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Regular encounters south to Punta Tombo.
Rock Shag ◊ Phalacrocorax magellanicus A small colony at the Valdés and a large one in the Beagle Channel.
Imperial Shag ◊ Phalacrocorax atriceps See note.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura See note.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus 3 seen in Córdoba, 1 (NL) out of Las Grutas.
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus See note.
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus 2 en route to Bahia Blanca; 1 (NL) out of Las Grutas .
Rufous-thighed Hawk Accipiter erythronemius See note.
Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni Regular encounters of this large stunning harrier in the pampas.
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus A total of 32 from the Bahia Blanca to southern Santa Cruz.
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Various sightings in the Pampas including 50 en route to San Clemente.
Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris 1 at Otamendi and 2 out of San Clemente (subspecies pucherani).
Harris’s Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus Singles at 4 sites from Salinas Grandes to Trelew sewage lakes.
Variable Hawk (Red-backed H) Geranoaetus polyosoma 9 in n. Patagonia; a nest with 3 chicks on the Valdes.
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus 2 Glacier NP; 2 Ea. La Angostura; 3 at Ushuaia landfill.
Swainson’s Hawk Buteo swainsoni 6 at Punta Rasa.
Black-legged Seriema Chunga burmeisteri (H) 1 or perhaps 2 heard at the Salinas Grandes.
Red-and-white Crake ◊ Laterallus leucopyrrhus Superb protracted views of one foraging at a stake out r La Plata.
Austral Rail ◊ Rallus antarcticus (H) See note.
Dot-winged Crake ◊ Porzana spiloptera 1 running around, pecking the speaker at Punta Rasa was mind-blowing!
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus 3 out of San Clemente and 1 at the Glacier NP.
Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata: Up to 20 in the Pampas.
Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops 4 out of San Clemente.
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera
Regular encounters, the commonest coot of the tour.
Red-gartered Coot ◊ Fulica armillata Small numbers in the Pampas, locally common in Santa Cruz.
Red-fronted Coot ◊ Fulica rufifrons 1 at an estancia out of San Clemente.
Limpkin Aramus guarauna: 12 or more out of San Clemente.
Snowy Sheathbill ◊ Chionis albus 3 at Mar del Plata, 10 or more in the Beagle Channel with several very close.
Magellanic Plover ◊ Pluvianellus socialis Stunning looks at a pair with 2 juveniles near El Calafate.
Magellanic Oystercatcher ◊ Haematopus leucopodus Small nos. almost daily in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego.
Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater 2 on the Valdés Peninsula.
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Regular encounters from San Clemente to Punta Tombo.
White-backed Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Numerous south to Trelew.
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Ubiquitous (crested lampronotus in the N, and crestless fretensis in the S).
American Golden Plover Pluvialis dominica Common around San Clemente.
Semipalmated Plover Pluvialis squatarola 3 at Punta Rasa.
Two-banded Plover ◊ Charadrius falklandicus 1 on the Valdes, 1 near El Calafate, 2 at Laguna Tonci.
Rufous-chested Plover (R-c Dotterel) ◊ Charadrius modestus 2 out of Rio Gallegos with protracted views.
Tawny-throated Dotterel Oreopholus ruficollis 25 on the Strobel Plateau, 1 towards Cabo Virgenes.
South American Painted-Snipe ◊ Nycticryphes semicollaris Wow, a walk near San Clemente produced at least 32!
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana 3 at Costanera Sur, and 5 out of San Clemente.
White-bellied Seedsnipe ◊ Attagis malouinus (X) See note.
Grey-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus 6 near El Calafate, 1 (NL) on the Strobel Plateau.
Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus 65 in Santa Cruz, with many on the Strobel Plateau.
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae See note.
Hudsonian Godwit Limosa haemastica 65 in the San Clemente area, and 5 at Trelew sewage lakes.
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 4 out of San Clemente on three dates.
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes 50 out of San Clemente and 2 at Trelew sewage lakes.
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Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 10 at Punta Rasa.
Red Knot Calidris canutus 1 at Punta Rasa.
White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis 8 at Punta Rasa.
Baird’s Sandpiper Calidris bairdii Regular encounters with a maximum of 250 at Punta Rasa.
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos 25 out of San Clemente.
Buff-breasted Sandpiper Tryngites subruficollis 5 scoped out of San Clemente.
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger 1 at San Clemente port (subspecies intercedens).
Brown-hooded Gull ◊ Chroicocephalus maculipennis Numerous.
Grey-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus
2 and 1 out of San Clemente.
Dolphin Gull ◊ Leucophaeus scoresbii Singles at the Valdes and P. Tombo, 100’s in the Beagle Channel.
Franklin’s Gull Leucophaeus pipixcan 1 at Laguna Tonci, and 1 at Ushuaia were vagrants.
Olrog’s Gull ◊ Larus atlanticus 10 juveniles at Punta Rasa, and 12 adults near Bahia Blanca.
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Ubiquitous at all coastal sites and numerous inland Patagonian areas.
Royal Tern Thalasseus maxima 8 at Punta Rasa, 2 on the Valdés whale trip, 1 at Punta Tombo.
Cabot’s Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus 5 or so seen poorly at Punta Rasa.
South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea Regular from Bahia Blanca southwards, 1000’s in the Beagle Channel.
Common Tern Sterna hirundo 3000 at Punta Rasa.
Snowy-crowned Tern (Trudeau’s T) ◊ Sterna trudeaui 5 out of San Clemente.
Chilean Skua ◊ Stercorarius chilensis (X) Up to 700 seen around Ushuaia and long the Beagle Channel.
Brown Skua ◊ Stercorarius antarctica 3 at Punta Tombo.
Feral Pigeon (Rock Dove) Columba livia The less said the better.
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Common in the Pampas.
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa: Common in Córdoba; 2 out of Bahia Blanca; 2 at the Calden woodlands.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Generally abundant throughout, although not seen in Tierra del Fuego.
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Numerous in Buenos Aires and Córdoba south to Rio Negro.
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi 20 or more seen in Cordoba, 3 heard in Buenos Aires.
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Regular encounters in Cordoba and Buenos Aires.
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia (H) Aural records at Icho Cruz, Salinas Grandes and Capilla del Monte.
Ash-coloured Cuckoo ◊ Coccycua cinerea 1 plus 1 heard at Otamendi; amazing looks at 2 in the Calden woodlands.
Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus 1 at Icho Cruz, 1 at Otamendi and 1 at the Calden woodlands.
Lesser Horned Owl ◊ (Magellanic H O) Bubo magellanicus Crippling walk-away views at Estancia La Angostura.
Rufous-legged Owl ◊ Strix rufipes (H, X) Little response, although we got fairly close in Tierra del Fuego NP.
Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum 2 performing well, out of Capilla del Monte.
Austral Pygmy Owl ◊ Glaucidium nana 1 scoped at the Glacier NP.
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Regular encounters south to Trelew.
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus 3 at the Pampa de Achala and heard at Capilla del Monte.
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Small numbers in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura 1 at Otamendi.
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis 1 at San Clemente.
Blue-tufted Starthroat ◊ Heliomaster furcifer A total of 6 in Cordoba with some outstanding males.
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata 1 at Otamendi and 1 at General Cerri.
Chaco Puffbird Nystalus striatipectus Brief views of 1 near Icho Cruz.
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus 2 and 2 more heard out of Capilla del Monte.
White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum 2 at the Salinas Grandes.
Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus 1 at the Salinas Grandes, and heard at Otamendi.
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochlorus Regular encounters south to Bahia Blanca.
Chilean Flicker Colaptes pitius 3, and others heard, at the Glacier NP.
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Regular south to Bahia Blanca (subspecies campestroides).
Magellanic Woodpecker Campephilus magellanicus A stunning pair at Glacier NP and a pair at Tierra del F. NP.
White-throated Caracara Phalcoboenus albogularis (X) 12 at Ushuaia landfill site.
Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus Ubiquitous throughout the tour.
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Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango: Generally abundant, darker birds in the SW refer to the race temucoensis.
Spot-winged Falconet Spiziapteryx circumcinctus 2 at the Salinas Grandes, and 2 for some nr the village of Chuña.
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Regular encounters, except in Tierra del Fuego.
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrines An adult cassini near Icho Cruz, carrying a large prey item.
Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday 10 or more at Costanera Sur.
Blue-crowned Parakeet Thectocercus acuticaudatus 6 at Nono, 3 out of Capilla del Monte.
Burrowing Parrot Cyanoliseus patagonus See note.
Austral Parakeet Enicognathus ferrugineus 5 at the Glacier NP, small numbers daily on Tierra del Fuego.
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Ubiquitous in the Pampas and Córdoba.
Common Miner Geositta cunicularia 10 or so on the Valdes, 30 or more on the Strobel Plateau.
Short-billed Miner Geositta antarctica 15 on the Strobel Plateau, 6 on the Cabo Virgenes road.
Rufous-banded Miner Geositta rufipennis 5 near El Calafate (giaii of the fasciata subspecies group).
Band-tailed Earthcreeper Ochetoryhnchus phoenicurus 2 on the Valdes Peninsula.
Scaly-throated Earthcreeper Upucerthia dumetaria Regular encounters from Las Grutas southwards.
Chaco Earthcreeper Tarphonomus certhioides Common at the Salinas and Capilla del Monte, 2 heard at Calden.
Buff-winged Cinclodes (Bar-w C) Cinclodes fuscus (X) 1 at the base of the Garibaldi Pass.
Cordoba Cinclodes Cinclodes comechingonus 6 at the Pampa de Achala.
Olrog’s Cinclodes Cinclodes olrogi
2 at the Pampa de Achala.
White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis 4 at the Pampa de Achala (schocolatinus).
Grey-flanked Cinclodes Cinclodes oustaleti (X) 3 on the Garibaldi Pass (hornensis).
Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus 1 Glacier NP, 2 Tierra del Fuego NP, 1 on a Beagle Channel islet.
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Common south to Trelew.
Crested Hornero Furnarius cristatus A pair at the Salinas Grandes.
Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda 6 at the Glacier NP, common on Tierra del Fuego.
Tufted Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura platensis (NL) 1 for John nr Icho Cruz; 1 for John and Jane nr Capilla del Monte.
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura aegithaloides Singles at Las Grutas, the Valdes and Punta Tombo.
Sharp-billed (Lesser) Canastero Asthenes pyrrholeuca Seen at Punta Tombo, Glacier NP and Estancia La Ang..
Short-billed Canastero Asthenes baeri 1 near Icho Cruz and 4 out of Capilla del Monte.
Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta 1 near El Calafate, 8 on the Strobel Plateau (australis).
Puna Canastero (Cordoba C) Asthenes sclateri 2 at the Pampa de Achala (nominate sclateri).
Austral Canastero Asthenes anthoides 1 near Rio Gallegos.
Hudson’s Canastero Asthenes hudsoni 1 near San Clemente.
Patagonian Canastero Pseudasthenes patagonica 1 eventually on the Valdés Peninsula.
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis 1 near Icho Cruz, 2 out of Capilla del Monte.
Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens Common in Cordoba and 2 at the Caldén woodlands.
Spix’s Spinetail Synallaxis spixi 2 at Otamendi.
Sulphur-bearded Spinetail Cranioleuca sulphurifera 3 seen near San Clemente and 2 at Punta Rasa.
Stripe-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca pyrrhophia See note.
Freckle-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticollis See note.
Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail Spartonoica maluroides 3 at Punta Rasa.
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops 11+ out of San Clemente, and 5 at Estancia La Angostura.
Curve-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis curvirostris 1 and 1 heard at Otamendi, 1 near Mar de las Pampas.
Straight-billed Reedhaunter Limnoctites rectirostris 1 at Otamendi after much effort.
Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi 4 above Icho Cruz and 2 en route to Bahia Blanca.
Lark-like Brushrunner Coryphistera alaudina 1 near Icho Cruz, and 2 at the Salinas Grandes.
Brown Cacholote Pseudoseisura lophotes See note.
White-throated Cacholote Pseudoseisura gutturalis 4 at Las Grutas, unusually easy this year.
White-throated Treerunner Pygarrhichas albogularis 3 at the Glacier NP; Ad + juv at the treeline of Paso Garibaldi.
Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper Drymornis bridgesii 7 seen and others heard in Córdoba.
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris 1 at the Salinas Grandes.
Great Antshrike Taraba major (H) An unresponsive bird out of Capilla del Monte.
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Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens 1 out of Capilla del Monte.
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus 2 at Otamendi, and 1 out of La Plata..
Crested Gallito Rhinocrypta lanceolata See note.
Sandy Gallito Teledromus fuscus 3 seen near Las Grutas with 1 performing the wing-rotating display.
Magellanic Tapaculo Scytalopus magellanicus: 1 and others heard at the Glacier NP.
Chilean Elaenia (White-crested E) Elaenia albiceps 1 at Capilla del Monte, and ubiquitous in the Patagonian forest.
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris 4 near Icho Cruz, 2 at Capilla del Monte, and 2 at Otamendi.
Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis 1 at Otamendi was a good find and write-in.
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Small numbers in Córdoba, and 1 at Otamendi.
Suiriri Flycatcher Suiriri suiriri 3 at the Salinas Grandes, and 4 out of Capilla del Monte.
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris 2 out of Las Grutas.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus (X) 1 in Tierra del Fuego NP.
White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda 1 near Icho Cruz, and 2 out of Capilla del Monte.
Straneck’s Tyrannulet Serpophaga griseicapilla Common in Calden woods and monte desert scrub nr Las Grutas.
Bearded Tachuri Polystictus pectoralis A superb male en route to San Clemente.
Warbling Doradito Pseudocolopteryx flaviventris 2 out of San Clemente.
Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus 1 at the Salinas Grandes.
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides 2 or more near Icho Cruz and heard south to La Pampa.
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis A pair at Otamendi.
Southern Scrub Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus See note.
Plain Inezia Inezia inornatus (H) Unresponsive at the Salinas Grandes.
Bran-coloured Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus 1 at Capilla del Monte, 3 at Otamendi; others heard.
Many-coloured Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra 6 out of San Clemente obliged well.
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
1 at Capilla del Monte.
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus 3 out of San Clemente, and 5 north of Las Grutas.
Austral Negrito Lessonia rufa Very common in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego, 1 on the old road to Punta Tombo.
Hudson’s Black Tyrant Knipolegus hudsoni See note.
White-winged Black Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus 7 out of Las Grutas.
Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillata Numerous encounters.
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys 2 at Otamendi, and 1 out of San Clemente.
Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola flavinucha (X) 3 on the Garibaldi Pass.
Dark-faced Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola maclovianus 5 at the Glacier NP, and 7 on the Garibaldi Pass.
White-browed Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora 1 at the Glacier NP found by Ian.
Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola capistratus 1 near El Calafate.
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montanus 1 by a bridge en route to the Strobel Plateau.
Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis micropterus 1 on the Valdes (nominate race).
Lesser Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis murinus 1 at the Salnias Grandes, and 1 near Punta Tombo.
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope 2 at the Glaciar NP.
White Monjita Xolmis irupero 4 near Icho Cruz, 1 en route to Bahia Blanca and 1 out of Las Grutas.
Rusty-backed Monjita Neoxolmis rubetra 5 on the Valdés Peninsula.
Salinas Monjita Neoxolmis salinarum 2 of these stunning endemics at the Salinas Grandes.
Chocolate-vented Tyrant Neoxolmis rufiventris 7 on the Strobel Plateau, and 3 towards Cabo Virgenes.
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa 2 out of Icho Cruz, and 2 en route to San Clemente.
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Regular encounters, sparsely in the south.
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculates 8 in Córdoba and 2 at Otamendi.
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus Common in Córdoba; and 6 out of Las Grutas.
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Regular sightings in Córdoba and Buenos Aires provinces.
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savanna Common south to the Valdés Peninsula.
Swainson’s Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni 3 out of Capilla del Monte (ferocior).
White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila Regular sightings south to Las Grutas.
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Phytotoma rara 2 males at the Glacier NP.
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White-naped Xenopsaris Xenopsaris albinuchathe 1 at the Salinas Grandes.
White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus 6 at Otamendi.
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis 1 near Icho Cruz; heard at Capilla del Monte.
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 1 at Capilla del Monte.
Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia 1 en route to San Clemente.
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Numerous south to Bahia Blanca.
Chilean Swallow Tachycineta meyeni Common in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego.
Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 1 near La Plata, seen by most at Ezeiza international airport.
Southern Martin Progne elegans Common in the sierras of Córdoba, and in coastal Buenos Aires south to Trelew.
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Regular encounters south to Bahia Blanca.
Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Regular from Las Grutas south through Santa Cruz.
Tawny-headed Swallow Alopochelidon fucata 6 near Icho Cruz.
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common around San Clemente and en route to Bahia Blanca.
“Sedge Wren” Cistothorus platensis See note.
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen throughout the tour.
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola Regular encounters in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Common in Cordoba and Buenos Aires.
Patagonian Mockingbird Mimus patagonicus 1 at the Salinas Grandes, common over much of Patagonia.
White-banded Mockingbird Mimus triurus Generally common from Bahia Blanca to the Valdés Peninsula.
Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus 1 on a lawn en route to Mar del Plata, 1 (NL) near La Plata. Common
Starling (European S) Sturnus vulgaris Small numbers in Buenos Aires, San Clemente and Mar del Plata.
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Common in the sierras of Córdoba.
Andean Slaty-Thrush Turdus nigriceps 3 males and a female showing well near Nono.
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Regular encounters in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii Common throughout Patagonia.
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Regular in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Present in all towns and cities.
Short-billed Pipit Anthus furcatus 2 out of San Clemente, and heard near Bahia Blanca.
Pampas Pipit (Chaco P) Anthus chacoensis 5 seen and at least 6 more singing out of Bahia Blanca.
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera 5 out of San Clemente, and 2 and others heard at Estancia La Angostura.
Hellmayr’s Pipit Anthus hellmayri 1 in the Sierras Chicas of Cordoba, and heard near San Clemente.
Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata Common in western Santa Cruz and southern Tierra del Fuego.
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Small numbers in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
Southern Yellowthroat Geothlypis velata 2 at Capilla del Monte and small numbers in north-east Buenos Aires.
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi 1 at Otamendi.
Brown-capped Whitestart Myioborus miniatus 5 at Nono.
Variable Oriole Icterus pyrrhopterus 1 at the Salinas Grandes.
Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus 1 at the Glacier NP, 2 in Tierra del Fuego NP.
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus 4 at Otamendi, 2 en route to Mar del Plata.
Yellow-winged Blackbird Chrysomus thilius Common in the pampas, 2 at Estancia La Angostura.
Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens Very common in the pampas.
Baywing Agelaioides badius Numerous encounters south to Las Grutas; seen (NL) at Trelew sewage farm.
Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufoaxillaris Common in Córdoba province, heard at Otamendi.
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis: Common south to to Trelew.
White-browed Blackbird Leistes superciliaris 8 near La Plata, 2 en route to Mar del Plata and 10 near Bahia Blanca.
Pampas Meadowlark Sturnella defilippii Only 2 studied out of Bahia Blanca.
Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca See note.
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Ubiquitous.
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Heard in Cordoba; 1 for Jane nr La Plata; 1 for all nr Bahia Blanca.
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca 8 at Otamendi.
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Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis A male near Icho Cruz, 5 nr Capilla del Monte, and 4 nr Calden.
Many-coloured Chaco Finch Saltatricula multicolor 5 and many heard in Córdoba, heard in La Pampa.
Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi Regular encounters from the Valdes south to Tierra del Fuego.
Patagonian Sierra Finch Phrygilus patagonicus 3 at Glaciar NP, 1 near El Calafate and heard in Tierra del Fuego.
Mourning Sierra Finch Phrygilus patagonicus Small to large numbers in Chubut and Santa Cruz.
Plumbeous Sierra Finch Phrygilus unicolor 1 male at the Pampa de Achala.
Ash-breasted Sierra Finch Phrygilus plebejus 12 or more at the Pampa de Achala.
Carbonated Sierra Finch Phrygilus carbonarius Over 40 on the road south of Las Grutas.
White-bridled Finch Melanodera melanodera 2 males on the Cabo Virgenes road (princetoniana).
Yellow-bridled Finch Melanodera xanthogramma (X) 3 on the Garibaldi Pass.
Black-crested Finch Lophospingus pusillus 5 at the Salinas Grandes.
Long-tailed Reed Finch Donacospiza albifrons 1 at Otamendi.
Common Diuca Finch Diuca diuca Regular encounters from La Pampa to Punta Tombo.
Cinnamon Warbling Finch Poospiza ornata 2 males and others heard south of Rio Colorado.
Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch Poospiza nigrorufa 18 or so in the Pampas.
Black-and-chestnut Warbling Finch Poospiza whitii 3 out of Capilla del Monte.
Grey-throated Warbling Finch Poospiza nigrorufa (NL) 1 seen by Jane, and glimpsed by others.
Ringed Warbling Finch Poospiza pectoralis 1 at the Salinas Grandes, and 2 at the Calden woodlands.
Black-capped Warbling Finch Poospiza melanoleuca 4 out of Capilla del Monte.
Patagonian Yellow Finch Sicalis lebruni See note
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Regular encounters in Córdoba, and a pair en route to Bahia Blanca.
Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola 2 in the sierras of Cordoba, and abundant in the Pampas.
Pampa Finch Embernagra platensis 1 at Salinas Grandes; 2 in the sierras of Cordoba; a few daily in the Pampas.
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Small numbers in Córdoba and Buenos Aires .
Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis A male in the Sierras Chicas, Córdoba.
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheuticus aureoventris (NL) A male for by Terry, John and Jane in the sierras of Cordoba.
Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens 1 at Otamendi.
Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris At least 17 in Córdoba, 1 at Otamendi.
MAMMALS
Larger Hairy Armadillo Chaetophractus villosus 1 on the Valdes Peninsula, and 1 at Punta Tombo.
European Rabbit Oryctolagus cunicilus (X) Common in Tierra del Fuego NP.
European Hare Lepus europeus Abundant except on Tierra del Fuego.
American Beaver Castor canadiensis (X) 1 in Tierra del Fuego NP.
Southern Mountain Cavy (Patagonian Lesser C) Microcavia patagonum 6 nr Grutas, and 100+ at Punta Tombo.
Common Yellow-toothed Cavy Galea musteloides Singles on two dates out of Capilla del Monte.
Brazilian Guinea-Pig (Common Cavy) Cavia aperea Regular encounters in Córdoba and Buenos Aires.
Patagonian Mara Dolichotis patagonum See note.
Magellanic Tuco-tuco Ctenomys magallanicus 6 or more of these pink-toothed rodents near El Calafate.
Coypu Myocaster coypus 2 and then 4 at an estancia out of San Clemente.
Pampas Fox (Argentine Grey F) Pseudolopex gymnocercus See note.
Humboldt’s Hog-nosed Skunk (Patagonian H-n S) Conepatus humboldti (X) 2 en route to El Calafate.
South American Sea Lion Otaria byronia Seen at most coastal sites, often in abundance.
Southern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonina 400 or so on the Valdés Peninsula, and 30 near Punta Tombo.
Southern Right Whale Eubalaena glacialis Around 20 off the Valdés, several close-up.
Burmeister’s Porpoise Phocoena spinipinnis (X) 1 in the Beagle Channel.
Yellow-sided Opossum (Southern Short-tailed O) Monodelphis dimideata 1 running about some roots nr Nono.
White-eared Opossum Didelphis albiventris 1 climbing down a tree at Capilla del Monte.
Guanaco Lama guanicoe Common over much of Patagonia.
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AMPHIBIANS
Redbelly Toad Melanophryniscus stelzneri 1 on the Pampa de Achala, Córdoba (nominate).
REPTILES
Darwin’s Lizard Liolaemus darwinii A male photographed between Rio Colorado and Las Grutas.
Blackhead Lizard Liolaemus melanops A female photographed on the Valdes Peninsula.
Di Tada’s Lizard Liolaemus ditadai Several at the Salinas Grandes.
Jointed Worm Lizard Ophiodes vertebralis 1 photographed at Otamendi.
Four-toed Whiptail Teius teyou A female seen by some at the Salinas Grandes.
NOTES TO THE SYSTEMATIC LIST
Fuegian Steamer Duck ◊ (Flightless/ Magellan S-D) Tachyeres pteneres
Two pairs by the hotel near Ushuaia, and two pairs near the penguin colony in the Beagle Channel.
Upland Goose Chloephaga picta
Numbers seem to be declining. We saw 100s daily in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego, compared to tens of thousands
in the 1990s.
Hooded Grebe Podiceps gallardoi
We were so very lucky to watch a pair at Laguna Tonci after a third visit and finding that most of the lakes on the Strobel
Plateau were dry. Voted bird of the tour, but sadly this superb grebe may not be around for much longer.
Stripe-backed Bittern Ixobrychus involucris
Single birds seen flying up and back into distant reedbeds out of San Clemente by John and Jane, and then by Ian at the
same place a day later.
Imperial Shag Phalacrocorax atriceps
Small numbers at the Valdes and large numbers in the Beagle Channel where dark and white-cheeked forms were
intermixed.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Widespread although notably absent from the Pampas. Those seen in Tierra del Fuego belong to the distinctive race
falklandica.
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus
1 at Capilla del Monte; 14 in Santa Cruz over various days, most memorable where 2 flying low in front of the Perito
Moreno glacier.
Rufous-thighed Hawk Accipiter erythronemius
Great looks at a perched male at Capilla del Monte, then a female in flight at Otamendi.
Austral Rail Rallus antarcticus
Sadly heard only. We heard seven at Ea. La Angostura where birds exhibited very different behavior from previous
years, being hardly vocal and possibly taped out.
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White-bellied Seedsnipe ◊ Attagis malouinus
Our six hour trek was rewarded with walk-away views of a lone bird, down to 5 metres. Way up there with the best
moments of the tour.
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae
1 (LO) at the Pampa de Achala and 2 singles out of San Clemente (paraguaiae), 3 displaying at El Calafate, 2 on the
Cabo Virgenes road, and all night displaying in Ushuaia (magellanica).
Burrowing Parrot Cyanoliseus patagonus
Common from Bahia Blanca to the Valdes, and 2 near Chapadmalal, Buenos Aires was north of the usual range
(patagonus).
Stripe-crowned Spinetail Cranioleuca pyrrhophia
Small numbers seen daily in Córdoba, one at Otamendi and heard at the Caldén woodlands.
Freckle-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticollis
Two at Otamendi where numerous by voice, one at Costanera Sur, and heard near San Clemente.
Brown Cacholote Pseudoseisura lophotes
Common in Córdoba: 1 between Rio Colorado and San Antonio Oeste was a surprise.
Crested Gallito Rhinocrypta lanceolata
2 at the Salinas Grandes, aural records at Capilla del Monte, 1 seen and many heard at the Calden woodlands.
Southern Scrub Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus
1 at the Salinas Grandes, and 1 at a stop between Rio Colorado and Las Grutas was a good record.
Hudson’s Black Tyrant Knipolegus hudsoni
3 males and a female at the Caldén woodlands of La Pampa, and a female seen by some, north of Las Grutas.
“Sedge Wren” Cistothorus platensis
1 on the Pampa de Achala, Cordoba (tucumanus), 1 near La Plata (platensis), several heard at Estancia La Angostura
(hornensis); all recently split at species level after the tour.
Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca
4 in the sierras of Córdoba (obscura), then common from Bahia Blanca south to Tierra del Fuego (loyca).
Patagonian Yellow Finch Sicalis lebruni
A male singing at the Valdes Peninsula, a pair (NL) seen by Jane at Trelew sewage farm, and a male on the Cabo
Virgenes road.
MAMMALS
Patagonian Mara Dolichotis patagonum
2 out of Bahia Blanca, 1 at the Calden woodlands, 40 on the Valdés Peninsula, 8 on the Punta Tombo road.
Pampas Fox (Argentine Grey F) Pseudolopex gymnocercus
Singles to the east and north-west of Bahia Blanca, and 1 (X) on the final drive to El Calafate.
19 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina www.birdquest-tours.com