Wanamaker’s Pursuit
Written By Rogelio Martinez, Directed by Terrence J. NoleN
a study and resource
guide
by Tara Demmy
Contents
Section One: 2-15
The Play
Section Two: 16-24
Context
Section Three: 25-31
Our Production
Photo by Mark Garvin
1
playwright biography
Rogelio Martinez
Rogelio Martinez is an award winning
playwright whose work has
been developed and produced by
some of the largest regional theaters
across the country. Plays include
When Tang Met Laika (Sloan Grant/
Denver Center Theatre Co.), All Eyes
and Ears (INTAR @ Theater Row),
Fizz (NEA/ TCG Grant/Besch Solinger
Productions at the Ohio Theatre,
New Theater, Miami), and Arrivals and Departures (Summer Play Festival).
Martinez’s play I Regret She’s Made of Sugar won the prestigious Princess
Grace Award and will be published by Broadway Play Publishing later this
year. He has received commissions from the Mark Taper Forum, the Atlantic Theater Company, Arden Theatre Company, and South Coast Repertory
to list a few. Martinez was born in Cuba and arrived in this country in 1980
during the Mariel boatlift.
“Writing a play is a way of
giving shape to your past”
~Rogelio Martinez
2
Characters
and Setting
Characters
NATHAN WANAMAKER, 29
PAUL POIRET, 32, a fashion designer
DENISE POIRET, his wife
GERTRUDE STEIN, 37
LEO STEIN, 39, her brother
LARUE, a french painter
PICASSO, twenties
FRANZ REICHELT
MUSEUM GUARD
WILBUR EDWIN HENRY as
Paul Poiret, Photo by Mark
Garvin
Setting
WILBUR EDWIN HENRY as
Paul Poiret, Photo by Mark
Garvin
Paris, 1911
CATHARINE K. SLUSAR as Gertrude
Stein, DAVID BARDEEN as Leo Stein,
Photo by Mark Gravin
3
SYNOPSIS
ACT 1. Scene 1.
The play opens to Nathan reading aloud a letter he has written to his wife, Josephine.
He tells her of his experiences in Paris thus far and his hope to start doing business.
The lights shift to introduce the Stein’s atelier, its walls covered in modern art. Denise Poiret
(French designer Paul Poiret’s wife and muse), Larue (a French painter) Leo Stein, and Gertrude Stein are all having a witty argument about how much one should chew their food.
Nathan enters the atelier as LaRue is showing the Stein’s his painting that they had commissioned. Larue, not pleased with Gertrude’s apathetic response, takes the painting away to
revise.
Leo thinks Nathan is there to collect money. Denise and Nathan discuss America and
his father’s department store and Leo returns with his checkbook as they are viewing Cezanne’s “Five Apples.” Nathan explains that he Nathan Wanamaker, of the Philadelphia department store, that he is not there to buy art but to ask their help to find Paul Poiret. He
hopes to take the latest fashion back to the states. Nathan discovers that Denise is Poiret’s
wife and that the Stein’s know him well. Larue enters to announce that the Mona Lisa has
been stolen.
Gertrude and Nathan discuss her self-portrait by Picasso, Gertrude’s book The Making
of Americans, as well as his reasons for coming to Paris. The scene concludes with Nathan
reading another letter to Josephine, telling her about Cezanne’s “Five Apples,” a painting that
appears not finished.
Act I. Scene 2 Poiret’s Shop
Denise is half draped with fabric and Nathan nervously tries to avert his eyes. Denise
explains to Nathan the difficulty always being on display and being someone’s muse. Poiret
enters and continues to work on the garment draped on Denise. Poiret calls Nathan out on
his lack of fashion knowledge and declares that America is a country that lacks culture (playfully assuming that an American therefore has stolen the Mona Lisa). Poiret advises Nathan to
find a designer that is less daring and Nathan tries to convince him otherwise.
Poiret’s fencing instructor enters and Nathan engages Poiret in match. Nathan blocks
with ease and Poiret agrees to show him a piece of his collection. Denise enters wearing
harem pants and Nathan refuses the idea, not knowing how his father would react to such a
radical statement. The scene concludes with Nathan reciting a letter to his father, stating that
he has met designers and had not yet decided on a date to return.
Act I. Scene 3 The Louvre
Gertrude sits near the empty Mona Lisa frame with her feet soaking in a tub with Leo,
both waiting for Nathan to arrive. Nathan arrives and Gertrude philosophizes about journeys
4
SYNOPSIS
and the promise of the future, she also describes a dream about Picasso. They discuss Picasso’s
work and Gertrude tries to get Nathan to commission him, using Denise’s affection for Picasso
to convince him further, he agrees. Gertrude tries to understand Nathan’s attraction to Denise,
while Nathan tells Gertrude that he has already experienced love, with his wife, Josephine, who
is dead. Nathan reads a letter again, to Josephine, telling her about the painting he has commissioned, questioning his sanity; can he love more than once? How can he accept his freedom?
Act I. Scene 4 Poiret’s Shop
Nathan and Poiret fence and discuss the pants shown to Nathan by Denise. Poiret compares his wife to the Mona Lisa, the fact that the Mona Lisa was commissioned by her husband
and never paid for. He confides in Nathan that he fears Denise is having an affair. Poiret says he
will help Nathan bring back his latest fashions if he will spy on Denise. Nathan agrees to attend
the The Thousand and Second Night party and keep his eye on Poiret’s wife.
Act I. Scene 5 A Café and the Eiffel Tower
Nathan walks into a surprise birthday party with all of his Parisian friends at a café. He
leaves the café and decides to visit the top of the Eiffel tower. Denise is already on the platform,
they both laugh and drink wine. Denise explains her unhappiness with her husband, feeling as
though no one sees her, only the clothing. An Austrian man, named Franz Reichelt, approaches
them in a large coat. He tells them that he intends to fly off the Eiffel tower, to make history. He
jumps and Nathan closes the act with a message to Josie, realizing that he needs to live fully.
Act II. Scene 1
Nathan is reciting a letter to Josie, recounting memories, explaining that the constant letters need to perhaps cease in order for him to move on.
Poiret’s Thousand and Second Night party is in full swing. LaRue and Gertrude bicker
about his commissioned painting. Gertrude is more concerned with the many letters from publishers in America refusing her work. Leo and Nathan enter; LaRue tries to get Nathan to commission him. Poiret encourages them all to join the party and discusses Gertrude’s purchasing habits
with Leo. Leo finally tells Larue that he does not like his company. Nathan asks Leo about Denise’s involvement with Picasso.
Denise escapes from the large gold cage Poiret locked her in and talks with Nathan. They
flirt and talk about the party, the night on the Eiffel tower, the Wanamaker department store. She
confronts him about his deceased wife; he tells her that he hopes she will fall in love with him.
Nathan recites a letter to his father asking for more time.
Act II. Scene 2 Poiret’s Shop
There are dresses lined up that Poiret is applying finishing touches to while Nathan talks
5
SYNOPSIS
about the party. Poiret questions Nathan, asking if he spoke to Denise or saw her leaving the
party with anyone. Poiret eventually reveals that Denise is missing and is afraid she is off with
another man. Poiret shows Nathan his new collection, Nathan is impressed, but Poiret demands
he find Denise before he will continue discussing his designs.
Act II. Scene 3 Picasso’s Studio
A man and a woman have a heated argument in French, Leo and Gertrude listen. Nathan
enters and they all hear repetitive banging; Picasso is with his mistress. Nathan wants to open
the door to discover if the woman is Denise; Gertrude stops him. Leo discusses the many artistic
paths he attempted while Nathan is drawn to Picasso’s painting titled “Demoiselles d’Avignon.”
The Steins leave and Picasso enters to find Nathan admiring his work. Picasso hands him a bag
of stolen art to get rid of, Nathan is confused at this proposition. Picasso explains that he stole
Iberian statues from the Louvre and needs to get rid of them so he is not accused of stealing the
Mona Lisa. Nathan explains that he is the man who commissioned him.
Denise emerges from the bathroom. Nathan tells her that Picasso does not love her, that
he is willing to take her back to Philadelphia with him. She accuses him of lying, and asks him if
he really loves her. Nathan grapples with his feelings and the loss of his wife, trying to convince
Denise that her husband misses her.
Act II. Scene 4 The Stein’s Atelier
A few paintings are missing off the wall, a sign that something is changing. Gertrude calls
Nathan a traitor for having Picasso arrested and tells him the Mona Lisa has been discovered and
Picasso set free. Gertrude tells Nathan that her collection is being broken up as Leo is moving.
Poiret enters and asks the Stein’s if they have heard from his wife, he is met with silence. Nathan asks him again about his collection, Poiret refuses to discuss anything until his wife is found.
Nathan intrigues him with a branding plan, to have his name on his designs in America. Poiret
refuses, feeling as though he is being used just for his name. Nathan says goodbye to Gertrude
and recites a letter to his father, announcing his return to America.
Act II. Scene 5 The Louvre
Nathan sits looking at the Mona Lisa. He talks to the guard about the mystery of the
painting, the gaurd mentions Vincenzo’s (a fellow worker and the painting’s thief) fixation with
the woman’s smile. Nathan asks the guard to give Denise the handkerchief when she arrives.
Nathan recites his last letter to Josie, stating that he has left Paris behind, though the memory of
Denise remains.
6
GENEVIÈVE PERRIER as
Denise Poiret, Photo by
Mark Garvin
LEARN FRENCH
GENEVIÈVE PERRIER as
Denise Poiret, Photo by
Mark Garvin
Translations of French Phrases In The PLAY
Denise:
Jamais - Never
Ils sont completement fou- They are completely
Mon Dieu- My God
Trés bien- Very Good
Ma chere femme- My dear/darling woman
Ne vous déplacez pas- Don’t Move
Cessez de taquiner - Stop teasing him.
Charmeuse- charming
Bon jour - Thank you.
Larue:
Monsieur- Mister/Sir
S’il vous plait- Please
Travail et du travail - Work and more Work
Oui? - Yes?
bete insensible - Insensitive Idiot
crazy.
Poiret:
Naturellement- Naturally
Parfait!- Perfect
C’est inadmissable! - It’s untolerable/unacceptable
Party:
Joyeux Anniversaire! - Happy Birthday!
Franz:
Et vous la press? - And you’re the press?
Fencing Instructor:
Il est temps, Monsieur - It’s time, sir.
7
LEARN FRENCH
Translations of Act II Scene 3
Where: Picasso’s Studio at the Laundry Boat. The door to the hallway is slightly ajar. The studio is crammed with canvases (unfinished), sketches, sculptures, dirty rags, and brushes.
GERTRUDE and LEO are there.OFFSTAGE we can hear a fight between a man and a
woman. The man has a strong accent.
MAN
Tu veux les chaussures? Prends-les. Prends toutes
tes chaussures!
MAN
You want shoes? Take them.
Take all your shoes!
WOMAN
Arrte!
WOMAN
Don’t!!!
MAN
Tu veux reprendre ta libert. Prends-la.
MAN
You want your freedom to go back.
Have it.
WOMAN
Je t’aime. Je suis venue vers toiÑ
MAN
Et maintenant, tu n’es pas sure.
WOMAN
Tu tais fch contre moi.
MAN
Ah. Et tu penses que cela rendrait les choses plus
faciles.
WOMAN
I love you. I came to you.
MAN
And now you’re not sure.
WOMAN
You were angry with me.
MAN
Ah.So that will make it better.
WOMAN
Tu dis n’importe quoi.
WOMAN
You make no sense.
MAN
Prends tes chaussures.
MAN
Take your shoes.
Leo walks up to the door
which is slightly ajar.
Leo walks up to the door
which is slightly ajar.
He is hit by a pair of shoes.
He is hit by a pair of shoes.
8
WOMAN
Qu’est que tu fait!?
WOMAN
What are you doing!?
MAN
Putain de merde!
MAN
Whore!
Gertrude pretends nothing
is happening, but Leo seems
concerned. He takes a
step toward the argument
only to by hit by several
more pairs of shoes.
Gertrude pretends nothing
is happening, but Leo seems
concerned. He takes a
step toward the argument
only to by hit by several
more pairs of shoes.
WOMAN
Tu ne comprends pas combien je t’aime.
WOMAN
You don’t understand just how much I love
you.
MAN
Je t’aime.
MAN
I love you.
WOMAN
Alors, pourquoi me traites-tu de cette facon. Je
voulais juste faire quelque chose
WOMAN
Then why do you treat me this way. I just
wanted to do something.
MAN
J’ etas a la campagne et tu tais avec un autre
homme.
MAN
I was away in the country and you were with
another man.
WOMAN
Non. Il n’y a qu’un homme pour moi. Toi. Ecoute
moi, s’il te plait. Je t’aime.
WOMAN
No. There’s only one man. You. Listen please.
I love you.
CATHARINE K.
SLUSAR as
Gertrude
Stein, DAVID
BARDEEN as
Leo Stein,
SHAWN
FAGAN as
LaRue,
GENEVIÈVE
PERRIER as
Denise Poiret,
Photo by Mark
Gravin
9
PASSPORT TO PARIS
Paris sites Mentioned in the Play
Les Halles
*Known as “the belly of Paris”
*used to be a huge open-air market in central paris (up until 1971, when it was
moved out to the suburbs)
Source: http://uk.reuters.com/article
The Luxembourg Gardens
*Located at the left bank of Paris, it surrounds Luxembourg Palace, built between
1615-1627 for Marie de Medicis. The uses of the palace have varied, it served as a
prison during the revolution and now houses the Senate.
*The Gardens have beautiful lawns and flowers, ponds, and statues. People of all
ages enjoy these relaxing and luxurious gardens.
Source: www.paris.org
The Seine
*River that runs through Paris, used as a major port for trade. Historically Paris has
been attacked and occupied via this waterway.
Source: http://www.discoverfrance.net
10
8
PASSPORT TO PARIS
Paris sites Mentioned in the Play
Montmartre
*Located in the North of Paris, it is a tall hill (130 meters high), “the last village in the
big city of Paris”
*Known for the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur (a white domed 19th century basilica) and
for having many nightclubs.
*Saint Pierre de Montmartre is a 12th century church on the hill, the supposed location
of the founding of the Jesuit order.
*Many artists had studios or worked around the community of Montmartre such as
Salvador Dalí, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso and Vincent van Gogh.
Source: www.parisdigest.com
Belleville
*means “beautiful town”
*northern neighborhood of Paris, located around Montmartre
*Originally a French working class neighborhood, present day it is a multi-ethnic neighborhood, one of Paris’ two “chinatowns.”
Source: www.paris.org
The Louvre
*One of the largest art museums in the world, representing artifacts from almost
every civilization on earth
*Most popular pieces include the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, and the Winged
Victory
*The building was originally a fortress in the 13th century, then a royal residence.
It was not a museum until the reign of Francois the I.
*Napoleon contributed to the museum in the 19th century, as he would bring back
items from his military campaigns.
Source: paris.org
11
Gertrude Stein’s
Quote Corner
The lines from the play below are
actual Gertrude Stein quotes,
Were you able to pick any
out during the production?
“America is my country. Paris is my hometown.”
“Once an angry man dragged his father
along the ground through his own
orchard. “Stop!” cried the groaning old
man at last, “Stop! I did not drag my father beyond this tree.”
“Do you know because I tell you so, or
do you know, do you know.”
“There is a difference between 29 and 30.
When you’re 29 it can feel like the beginning of everything. When you are 30 it
can be the end of everything.”
Source: Poets.org
“Argument is to me the air
I breathe. Given any
proposition, I cannot help
believing the other side
and defending it.”
“A ROSE IS A ROSE
IS A ROSE”
CATHARINE K. SLUSAR as
Gertrude Stein, Photo by
Mark Gravin
12
JÜRGEN HOOPER as Nathan
Wanamaker, Photo by Mark
Garvin
Nathan: “I need to go
up to the ledge,
look down,
and not be afraid of what comes next.”
Discussion Questions
1) What determines a place’s identity?
2) How does the character of Denise connect with the mystery associated with the
Mona Lisa?
3) What are some relationships between business and art brought up by the play?
4) Have you ever felt like you had to go somewhere else in order to find meaning
in the place you left? How do you interpret the character of Nathan, a new businessman being pushed in many different directions?
5) Why does Nathan continue to write letters to Josephine? How does this structure help to contextualize the action of the play?
Poiret: “It’s an
American for sure. A
country lacking
culture, a past, it must
go out and acquire it.”
WILBUR EDWIN HENRY as
Paul Poiret, Photo by Mark
Garvin
13
Is that what america is like?
~WORKSHOP~
Circle all the areas you have lived/visited in your life on the map below.
What place do you consider “home”? Why? How do your experiences in
each of these places culminate in how you define American culture?
Denise: “I do love putting on a
costume. It’s like walking into
a strange city just after sunset. You don’t have a map. You
don’t know anyone and, more
importantly, no one knows you.
Is that
what America is like?”
You can start over.
GENEVIÈVE PERRIER as Denise Poiret,
JÜRGEN HOOPER as Nathan Wanamaker,
Photo by Mark Garvin
14
Cast Field Trips
The Cast of Wanamaker’s Pursuit
visited the Wanamaker’s Department
Store (Now Macy’s) on 13th and Market for a special tour.
They also visited the Philadelphia Art Museum
to see some of Paul Poiret’s original dresses.
Photos by Stephanie Cook
15
SECTION TWO: CONTEXT
WANAMAKER’S DEPARTMENT STORE
Nathan: “Yes. Before we open my grandfather, father, and myself we
take this walk through the main concourse. All the young girls are
ready at the counters and all the elevator boys are there on the first
floor standing next to the elevators with the doors open ready to take
customers up.....
.......We take an elevator to the third floor and from there we can see it
happen.
It’s time.
The doormen open every single door simultaneously. And everyone
who walks in -- whether they know it or not -- it’s likely that they don’t
-- is there for a need...a need that we somehow meet.”
Even though it is now Macy’s, Wanamaker’s is a site that many Philadelphians
admire and visit regularly. It is known for its famous Holiday Light Show, and while
very unique to Philly, it started a revolution in department store commerce in the
United States and abroad.
16
Wanamaker’s TimeLiNE
courtesy of Historic Landmarks of Philadelphia by Roger W. Moss.
1861 – As the Civil War Breaks Out, John
Wanamaker Opens His First Store – Known
as Oak Hall – at 6th and Market Streets, near
Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell
John Wanamaker
Source: xroads.virginia.edu
*A Men’s Clothing Store where he was a pioneer in
advertising (buying full page spreads in magazines and
newspapers!)
*He had both advanced machines for producing clothing fast, as well as in house tailors to customize clothing to individuals.
*Coined the slogan ”Full Guarantee, One Price,
Cash Payments, Cash Returns” He revolutionized
the business by “guaranteeing customer satisfaction;
offering no-haggle pricing – you didn’t have to negotiate; giving the customer the option to undo the transaction and refund his/her money, for any reason.”
1874 – Wanamaker Moves His Operation to 13th and Market Streets for the
First Time, Opening “The New Establishment”, Selling Clothing, Fabrics, and
Linens
*Sold both men and women’s clothing as well as fabrics and linens.
1877 – The First Wanamaker Department Store Opens, Known as “The Grand Depot”
1878 – Wanamaker Opens a China Department
1880 – Wanamaker Becomes First Store to Install Thomas Edison’s Newly Invented Electric
Lamps for Interior Lighting; Creates Departments for Sporting Goods, Refrigerators, Jewelry,
and Carpets
1881 – Wanamaker Creates Departments for Antique Furniture, Gas Stoves, Art, Beds, and Eyeglasses
1882 – Wanamaker Installs a Soda Fountain and Begins
Selling Books
1901 – Wanamaker Announces His Plan To Re-
place The Grand Depot, and Construct The Building We Know Today, at 13th and Market Streets.
*Took a decade to design and construct the new building
December 30, 1911 – U.S. President William
Howard Taft Gives Address Dedication of the New
John Wanamaker Store
The Wanamaker’s Eagle
Source: frontpagenews.us
17
Wanamaker’s TimeLiNE
courtesy of Historic Landmarks of Philadelphia by Roger W. Moss.
“This notable edifice of ours takes its place as a
central commanding figure in Philadelphia city
life…, but more than this, it is a national building, specifically prepared to install the home of
the new kind of store that originated here, embodying the new American mercantile system
of retail commerce, which has spread over the
world.”
~John Wanamaker, at President Taft Address Dedication
Wanamaker’s Ad
Source: joseflebovicgallery.com
1922 – The Death of John Wanamaker; His Family Continues the Business
1978 – The John Wanamaker Store Becomes A National Historic Landmark; the Wanamaker Family Sells the Chain To Other Department Stores
1995 – The Wanamaker Name Vanishes From All Stores; And Becomes Hecht’s,
Temporarily
1997 – Wanamakers Becomes Lord & Taylor
1998
- The Year After the Wanamakers Name Vanishes From 13th and Market
Streets, The Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission (PHMC) Places A
Pennsylvania Historical Marker, Outside the John Wanamaker Store
August 2006 – Wanamakers Becomes Macy’s, Which It Remains Today
18
Source: enjoyingphiladelphia.com
Gertrude and Leo’s
Collection
The Stein’s Art Collection
included work from Picasso,
Matisse, Bonard, Cezanne,
Daumier, Degas, Delacroix,
Gauguin, Manet, Nadelman,
Toulouse-Lautrec, Vallotton,
and Renoir.
Source: Four Americans in
Paris, Museum of Modern
Art,
New York
Picasso’s “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon”
In the early 1900s, Leo and Gertrude’s home
(whom they also shared with Gertrude’s companion
Alice Toklas) was a “mecca for the modern-minded,”
attracting poets, painters, intellectuals, English arisPicasso’s “Young Girl with Basket of tocrats, students, and other visiters aiming to see
Flowers”
the Steins’ avant-garde collection. Their living and
dining room walls were covered in paintings and
sketches (many that are now famous!).
Source: www.nytimes.com/books/98/05/03
19
Gertrude and Leo’s
Collection
“I always wanted to be
historical” - Gertrude Stein
Renoir’s “Two Bathers”
t,
Source: Four Americans in Paris, Museum
of Modern Art, New York
Cezanne’s “Five Apples”
“On a typical Saturday Evening, 60 years ago,
one would have found Gertrude Stein at her
post in the atelier, garbed in brown corduroy,
sitting in a high-backed Renaissance chair, her
legs dangling, next to the big cast-iron stove
that heated the chilly room. A few feet away,
on could hear Leo expounding to a group of
visitors, his views on modern art.”
In 1912, Leo and Gertrude parted and split
their painting collection, Gertrude grabbing
most of the Picassos and Leo taking the
Renoirs and Cezannes.
Matisse’s “Promenade among the Olive
Trees”
Source: www.nytimes.com/books/98/05/03
20
Historical Spotlight:
Gertrude Stein
Brief Biography:
*Born in Allegheny, PA in 1874, moving to Vienna
then Paris at the age of 3.
*Studied Psychology at Radcliffe College and actually attended medical school for four years at Johns
Hopkins University but did not recieve any formal
degree.
*In 1903 she returned to Paris with her companion
Alice Toklas where she connected with new artists
and writers who impacted her later writing.
*She was known for her radical poetry style and
indulgence in the abstract.
*Her most important works include:
The Making of Americans (1925)
How to Write (1931)
The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933)
Stanzas in Meditation and Other Poems (1929-33)
Source: metmuseum.org
Relationship with Picasso:
*This painting signifies Stein’s and Picasso’s link to eachother, as non-parisians creating art in Paris.
*Picasso was always drawn to poets, but his connection to Gertrude Stein was unique, he was attracted to her strong presence and suggested to paint her portrait before even knowing her well.
Gertrude had many of his works in her
collection, encourged his career, and
gave him great publicity at her and
Leo’s Saturday salons. Her response
to the painting was the following: “For
me, it is I, and it is the only reproduction of me which is always I, for me.”
*Stein’s body remained the same duriing their sittings but Picasso changed
the head placement at least three
times before completion.
GERTRUDE:
“At first he had me in profile but
slowly on the canvas he turned me
toward him. That was the moment
we recognized one another’s
genius.”
Source: Four Americans in Paris, Museum
of Modern Art, New York
21
Source: Poets.org, metmuseum.org
Historical Spotlight:
Paul Poiret and Denise Poiret
*Known as “Poiret the Magnificient,” named for
his pivotal role in women’s fashion in the early
1900s, breaking away from the corset and the
petticoat, popularizing the bra, and freeing
women of the strict dress codes of the 19th century. He also created his own perfume and threw
fancy parties.
*His fashion is best described as having “vibrant
color combinations” and extensive draping. He
created harem pants, the chemise ,culottes,
dropped waists, and the lampshade skirt.
*Not only did he invent new clothing designs but
he paved the way for a new presentation and
branding of fashion, one that incorporated art
and interior design.
Source: littleaugury.blogspot.com
“I am an Artist, not a dressmaker”
-Paul Poiret
*Dedicated patron to the arts, admiring the work of
Picasso, Matisse, Brancusi, and Modigliani.
*Designed for remarkable European women (actresses, dancers) including Isadora Duncan.
*Denise Poiret was his muse, model and artistic director of his company.
*Denise and Paul Poiret divorced in 1928.
The Thousand and Second Night Party
*Famous costume party thrown in 1911 by Paul and
Denise Poiret.
*The party was to promote his own work and new
collections.
*Denise most likely “wore the heavily beaded green
gauze lampshade-shaped tunic and pleated green silk
gauze pantaloons,” currently on display at the Met.
Source: littleaugury.blogspot.com
22
Source: artnet.com
Historical Spotlight:
FRANZ REICHELT
*Austrian tailor
*Thought he could create a suit that could
double as a parachute and decided to test it
by jumping off the Eiffel tower.
*He gained access to the tower by telling authorities that he would use a dummy.
*He fell for just about 5 seconds before hitting the ground, the fall was captured on film
in 1912 and is available for viewing on
YouTube.com
SHAWN FAGAN as Franz
Reichelt, Photo by Mark
Garvin
FRANZ: “Instructions for flying: Let the
heart leap then the body will follow.”
Source: Unmuseum.org
23
Source: junkworthknowing.com/disasters
The Mona Lisa...STOLEN?
Finding it missing:
Louis Beroud, an artist known for copying famous paintings for
tourists, discovered the missing painting on Tuesday morning (August 22, 1911). When he alerted the guard, he assumed that it
had just been removed to be photographed (a new concept at the
time!) They soon discovered it was not in the photography room,
it had indeed been stolen.
The Crime:
The police suspected that the perpetrator hid over night in the
museum on Sunday (after arriving as a visitor). The next day was
Monday (Louvre is closed for maintenance) so the thief was able
to slip into maintence garb and take the painting out via the service stairs (stripping it of its frame, later found in the stairway).
He exited into the courtyard, and even though the courtyard door
was locked, he was able to hide the painting (it’s only 21 X 30
inches!), and convince the Louvre plumber to open the door with
his pliers, and slip by the courtyard gaurds.
Suspects:
When they realized the Mona Lisa had been stolen,
the French sealed the borders, inspecting every
ship and train leaving the country. They dusted
the frame left in the stairwell and found a fingerprint (fingerprint identification still being new) and
they called an expert. Unfortunately, it was a left
fingerprint and only right fingerprints were kept on
file at that time. Police investigated everyone that
could have been connected to the crime, they even
posted rewards outside the Louvre (with many
magazines and newspapers contributing to the
reward). Money was even offered to fortune tellers, who could possibly see into the future, they all assumed it had been destroyed.
With public attention, rumors began to spread around Paris about
who had stolen the piece, from a rich American (like JP Morgan) to
a suspicious German plot.
Source: pbs.com
Finally Found:
It was found on December 10, 1913 when a man approached a antique dealer in Florence by the name of Alfredo Geri. This man was
named Vincenzo Perugia and he claimed to have the Mona Lisa.
Geri brought the director of the Uffizi Gallery with him to Perugia’s
hotel room. They requested to view the painting alone, and quickly
brought it back to the Louvre who confirmed its authenticity. Peru-24
gia was arrested at his hotel and the Mona Lisa was safely returned
to France.
SECTION Three: production
CATHARINE K. SLUSAR as
Gertrude Stein, DAVID BARDEEN as Leo Stein, SHAWN
FAGAN as LaRue, Photo by
Mark Gravin
Wanamaker’s Pursuit
GENEVIÈVE
PERRIER as
Denise Poiret,
JÜRGEN
HOOPER
as Nathan
Wanamaker,
Photo by
Mark Garvin
Scenic Designer
JAMES KRONZER
Dramaturg
EDWARD SOBEL
Costume Designer
RICHARD ST. CLAIR
Assistant Director
DAN PLEHAL
Sound Designer
JORGE COUSINEAU
Lighting Designer
F. MITCHELL DANA
Stage Manager
STEPHANIE COOK
Director
Terrence J. Nolen
25
Scenic Designset model
t,
The Steins’
The Louvre
26
Scenic Designset model
Poiret’s Shop
The Eiffel
Tower
Picasso’s
Apartment
27
Costume DesignSketches and Research Photos
GENEVIÈVE PERRIER as
Denise Poiret, Photo by
Mark Garvin
GENEVIÈVE PERRIER as
Denise Poiret, Photo by
Mark Garvin
28
Costume DesignSketches and Research Photos
CATHARINE K. SLUSAR as
Gertrude Stein, Photo by
Mark Gravin
JÜRGEN HOOPER as Nathan
Wanamaker, Photo by Mark
Garvin
Source: Photos compiled for Inspiration by
Costume Designer Richard St. Clair
29
Costume DesignSketches and Research Photos
DAVID BARDEEN as Leo
Stein, Photo by Mark Garvin
WILBUR EDWIN HENRY as
Paul Poiret, Photo by Mark
Garvin
Paul Poiret
Source: Photos compiled for Inspiration by
Costume Designer Richard St. Clair
30
Costume DesignSketches and Research Photos
Pablo Picasso
SHAWN FAGAN as Picasso,
Photo by Mark Garvin
SHAWN FAGAN as LaRue,
Photo by Mark Garvin
Pablo Picasso
Source: Photos compiled for Inspiration by
Costume Designer Richard St. Clair
31