Owner’s Manual
for a successful, permanent
dog/owner relationship.
Our Mission Statement
Heart Bound Greyhound Adoption
believes the welfare of the dogs
comes first.
Our mission is to place retired racing
greyhounds in loving, forever homes,
while educating the public about the
attributes and needs of this unique
breed.
We strive for quality, not quantity
adoptions.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The History of Greyhounds…………………………………………………… Page 1
Greyhounds as Pets – Common Questions ………………………. Page 4
Before You Bring Your New Pet Home …………………………… Page 7
The Ride Home ………………………………………………………………………… Page 8
Bringing Your New Pet Home ……………………………………………… Page 9
Feeding Your New Pet …………………………………………………………… Page 10
Greyhounds and Other Pets ………………………………………………… Page 12
Home Alone ……………………………………………………………………………….Page 13
Exercise …………………………………………………………………………………… Page 15
Equipment ……………………………………………………………………………………Page 16
A Safety collar is Only as Safe as Your Adjust It ….. Page 17
Training Your Greyhound ……………………………………………………… Page 18
Housebreaking Hints ……………………………………………………………… Page 19
Grooming Your Greyhound …………………………………………………… Page 20
Kids and Dogs …………………………………………………………………………… Page 21
Veterinary Care ……………………………………………………………………… Page 22
Common Parasites …………………………………………………………………… Page 23
Canine Tick Diseases ……………………………………………………………… Page 26
Gastric Dilatative Volvulus (Bloat) ………………………………………Page 31
Playing with Your Pet …………………………………………………………… Page 32
SUPPLEMENTS
The History of Greyhounds
(Adapted from article by Fred W. Thies)
The origin of the greyhound is deeply rooted in ancient history. In fact, murals and
paintings of dogs strikingly similar to today’s greyhound existed more than 4,000 years
ago.
A glance at the British Greyhound Tree, with the granddaddy of ‘em off, King Cob,
firmly rooted at the base with his descendants above, would serve to give the illusion
that the greyhound originated in the British Isles.
“Tormarctus”, a short-legged predatory ancestor of all dogs, lived 15 million years ago.
A direct descendant, “canis familiaris”, one of a species of “companion dogs”, has kept
mankind company for 100,00 years, roaming with him across the globe. The greyhound
of today has evolved from Canis’ sons. Long-muzzled, hard-pacing canines are mentioned
in story and pictures throughout the ancient world, where nobility praised them – even
raising them to positions of deity.
Egyptians of the Early Kingdom (3100-2780 B.C.) domesticated a long-nosed, curly-tailed
dog and even gave divine power to it. A mythological god possessed a greyhound’s body –
long, stiff, forked tail; thin, curved muzzle; almond eyes; and long straight ears.
Cleopatra, queen of the Nile (69-30 B.C.), raised her own kennel of hounds while King
Amten (2500 B.C.) and Tutankhaman (1361-1340 B.C.) were interred in sarcophagi
embossed with greyhounds.
King Solomon mentions the greyhounds in the Bible (Proverbs 30, 29-31):
“There are four things which go well, Yea, four are comely in going: A lion, which
is the strongest among beasts, and turneth not away for any; A greyhound; and he got
also; And a king against whom there is no rising up.”
The name greyhound appeared first in 277 A.D., as the “Greihounde of King
Cranthylinths dayes”, referring to a Scottish monarch how bred his own dogs. Roman,
Flavius Arrianus, devoted a lengthy treatise to greyhounds 1800 years ago. The
Goddess Diana, a symbolic mistress of the hunt, is depicted on statues, standing proudly
with greyhounds. Grecian potters of the 1200 B.C. era frequently painted greyhounds
pursuing wild game.
Celtics brought greyhounds to the British Isles in 500 B.C. The animals figured
prominently in the lives of Irish, Scottish, and English royalty. King John imposed
1
“greyhound fines,” while Robert Bruce’s wife, imprisoned by Edward I, was comforted by
her servants and her greyhounds. Queen Elizabeth I, watching from a castle balcony in
1591, observed some greyhounds catch 16 stags during an after-dinner show.
During Queen Bess’ reign, racing rules were drawn up for greyhounds, which were to be
the exclusive property of the nobility and woe betide the precocious commoner who
fancied himself a greyhound owner. He could end up on the gibbet!
The first published coursing in history was at Swaffham, Norfolk, England, in 1776,
promoted by Lord Orford, who later expired while riding after his favorite bitch. The
first registration of greyhounds in the world took place in England. The oldest dated
pedigree was on two black littermates. Port and Pistol registered as whelped in 1786.
Both were owned by a Mr. Pickering. The dogs’ dam was Portia. The sire is unknown.
In 1876 the first attempt at using a mechanical hare took place at Welsh Harp, Hendon,
which failed. In the year 1926, half a century later, Manchester boasted a track
sponsored by the Greyhound Racing Association. So successful was the first track
racing at White City, London, where dog racing attracted up 100,000 people at a single
night of which there were three a week.
Fortunes were made and racing corporations launched during that eventful year of 1926
and the following season a “trackless hare” was introduced in competition with the
electric rabbit. While England had 110 years head start on the United States in
greyhound coursing, we are six years ahead in mechanical track racing. Greyhound track
racing, as we know it today, began with Owen Patrick Smith’s invention of a mechanical
lure around 1912, which made racing around a circular track possible. The first circular
track opened in 1919 in Emeryville, California. Although this track was not very
successful, it paved the way for the development of the greyhound racing industry in
America. The first known racetrack constructed solely for American dogs was opened
March 13, 1920. The venture cost its promoters $67,000. Races were held Saturday,
Sunday, Monday, and Thursday afternoons on a 20-foot wide track, three-sixteenths of
a mile in circumferences. O.P. Smith, an electrical engineer with a penchant for
inventions, tinkered 15 years with an electrically propelled hare. Smith became general
manager of the Emeryville track.
Other interesting facts:
• Their pictures were etched on the walls of ancient Egyptian tombs, and Pharaohs
rated them first among all animals, both as pets and hunters.
• The Arabs so admired the physical attributes and speed of the greyhound that it
was the only dog permitted to share their tents and ride atop their camels.
2
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
3
In early Arabian culture, the birth of a greyhound ranked second only in
importance to the birth of a son.
Their link with nobility was established in 1014 when King Canute of England
enacted the Forest Laws, which stated that only noblemen could own and hunt
with greyhounds. The law stated, “No mean person may keep any greyhounds”.
The law also stated that the destruction of a greyhound should carry the same
capital punishment as the murder of a man.
Greyhound racing did not begin until much later in this majestic breed’s history.
The Forest Laws were abolished in the 1500s by Queen Elizabeth I, who later
initiated the first formal rules of greyhound coursing (the pursuit of hares), thus
officially inaugurating the “Sport of Queens”.
In the late 1800s, the greyhound was imported to America to help midwestern
farmers control the jackrabbit, a noted crop destroyer. With the advent of the
greyhound in America, coursing events soon followed.
Our American General Custer was a big greyhound fancier.
President Abraham Lincoln had a greyhound in his family coat-of-arms.
In 1804, Australia issued a proclamation ordering the destruction of all dogs
EXCEPT greyhounds and sheepdogs.
There is an Irish greyhound named Master McGrath, who had been memorialized
in poetry and song for his winging the English Waterloo Cup Race.
John Barrymore, the famous actor, always kept his house full of greyhounds as
pets.
Bo Derek, the actress best known from the movies 10 and Tarzan, owns several
retired racing greyhounds and is a great advocate of our program promoting
these dogs as pets.
For many, many years the American Lincoln had a greyhound as its hood ornament.
Greyhounds are the fastest breed of dog, reaching top speeds of 40 miles per
hour!
Greyhounds can see CLEARLY for a distance of a half-mile!
Many people are allergic to dogs are NOT allergic to greyhounds, due to their
short, sleek coat and skin type, which has more oil in it, thus less dandruff.
Greyhounds are NOT guard dogs! Being bred specifically to be even-tempered
and good-natured, they are inherently well socialized. For this reason they LOVE
everyone.
A retired racing greyhound will return the love and affection you give him 110%.
Few things in life are quite as satisfying as adopting one of these lovely
greyhounds and being rewarded with never-ending love!
Greyhounds as Pets – Common Questions
What kind of pets do ex-racing greyhounds make?
Greyhounds are affectionate, friendly dogs that thrive on attention and human companionship
and make terrific pets. Raised with their littermates, where they compete for affection,
greyhounds love becoming the center of attention as household pets. Greyhounds do not usually
make good watchdogs. Their friendly nature is not really very threatening.
Are they good with children?
More so than most breeds. They are not as playful as puppies, of course, being mature dogs, but
they are very tolerant of children and will usually walk away rather than growl or snap if children
become overbearing. Like any other dog, however, if they are tormented for long periods of
time, they too can become irritated. Even a gentle greyhound has its limits.
How are they with other pets?
Greyhounds are friendly by nature and socialize well as a result of encounters with other
greyhounds in the racing kennel. Cats are unknown to a greyhound and a little extra time and
care are required to make a happy home for all.
How old are retired greyhounds?
The retired racers are usually between two and four years old.
What is their life expectancy?
These purebred athletes enjoy many years of good health. With proper care, they have a life
expectancy of 12 years or more.
How much does it cost to own a greyhound?
After the initial adoption fee, greyhounds like any other dog, should be given regular veterinary
care. It costs about $1 a day to feed a greyhound.
Are ex-racing greyhounds already housebroken?
Frequently an adopted greyhound is completely housebroken right from the start. In their
kennel environment they are “turned out” three or four times a day to relieve themselves.
Therefore, racing greyhounds are kennel-broken, which means they are trained to go outside
and keep their kennels clean. Walk them frequently at first, and they quickly learn that their
new home is the place they keep clean and outside is where they go to relieve themselves.
How big do they get?
Greyhound males stand 26 to 30 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh between 65 and 85
pounds. Females stand 23 to 26 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh 50 to 65 pounds.
4
Why do they wear muzzles? Is it because they are so high-strung?
Actually the greyhound is a wonderfully unique creature blessed with both the ability to be very
competitive and aggressive while on the track, yet on the other hand, a very loving and docile
companion, living to please a beloved owner. They wear muzzles while racing for two reasons: to
help racing official determine the outcome of a photo-finish race, and to protect the greyhound
from injury during the excitement of the chase.
Why do greyhounds need to be kept on a leash?
A leash assures the greyhound protection from disasters. Greyhounds have no fear of cars and
other hazards in our world and as history has proven, they greyhound is born to run.
Greyhounds are accustomed to walking on a leash and enjoy the exercise, as well as the
attention they receive from the people who pass by.
Do greyhounds need a lot of exercise?
Greyhounds easily adapt to the lifestyles of their new owners. Feel free to take your greyhound
walking or jogging with you as your exercise regime dictates.
Aren’t all greyhounds gray?
Not at all – they are many colors – brindle, black, brown, fawn, or a combination of these colors.
The name greyhound is not derived from the color of the animal. The name originates from
three possible sources. The ancient Greeks may have called greyhounds “Greekhounds” or may
have named them “Gazehounds”, since they relied on sight rather than smell in hunting. Thirdly,
the name may have been derived from the Latin “gre” or “gradus” meaning degree, which related
to the principle and care in breeding.
Why are greyhounds so streamlined?
Greyhounds are like any other competitive athlete. During their racing career, they eat heartily
(up to two pounds of meat per day), but burn off excess weight when they run. As a pet they
eat much less, just four to six cups of dry food a day.
What has the life of a racing greyhound been like?
Greyhounds spend most of their lives in the company of other dogs. When they are born, they
average litter size if about eight pups. Young greyhounds are given a lot of attention and
handled as much as possible. As they approach their first birthday, their training begins and
they are taught to chase a lure, eventually progressing to a racetrack. Track life is very routine
– feeding in the morning, turnouts in the exercise yard to relieve themselves, and retiring
between races in individual kennel crates. Dogs race every three to seven days and most racing
kennels have about 60 dogs. Most greyhounds have seen very little of the every day world
including houses, stairs, mirrors, and cats. They have seldom, if ever, ridden in a car. The
transition to living in a home requires some time.
5
What should I expect if I adopt a greyhound?
Expect a gentle, loving pet that, with little time and patience, will be a great addition to your
family. Because everything is brand new to the greyhound, expect him/her to be somewhat
confused and very curious. House manners have to be learned, but greyhounds are very
intelligent dogs and learn quickly.
Does my dog need a special space in the house?
In the kennel, your dog has always had its own kennel crate where it felt safe and secure.
There are a number of ways to accomplish this in your house. Using a large crate or having a
special bedding area during the first few weeks will help the greyhound adjust at his/her own
pace to the unaccustomed freedom of your house. Although many people feel uncomfortable
about using a crate, greyhounds are quite at home in them. Indeed, using a crate can provide
for a completely successful transition by affording the dog actual physical security when left
alone during the adjustment period and thus preventing any possible damage due to separation
anxiety. It also can eliminate any temptation to investigate the garbage. Another advantage to
the crate is that greyhounds, like other dogs, instinctively will not soil their own living space.
This makes crate usage a very effective tool in the housebreaking process.
Why is routine important to a greyhound?
Because greyhounds are used to having a daily routine in the racing kennel, they tend to feel
more comfortable in unfamiliar situations if a routine is established with regard to feeding,
answering calls of nature and resting. In a home situation, until you have established a workable
routine with your greyhound, you will need to take more frequent trips outside to avoid
accidents.
What about feeding?
Initially, feed your dog between four and six cups of dry dog food (kibble) missed with warm
water each day. Gradually, as your dog seems to eat less and begins to gain weight, you can cut
back to three and a half to five cups of food a day. Treat your dog with a thick beef
marrowbone or dog biscuits. A limited amount of table scraps or water from cooked vegetables
also can be added to your greyhounds good. A special treat might be a large, soft marshmallow.
What sort of medical care will my greyhound need?
The best medical care is preventive in nature. Your dog will need to be checked periodically for
worms. Your dog also should be checked annually for heartworm and placed on heartworm
preventive medication. Your greyhound’s distemper/parvo vaccination is current, but your
veterinarian will have to administer a rabies shot. Be sure your vet is familiar with the problems
greyhounds have with anesthesia and if your dog’s teeth have a build up of tartar, consider
having them cleaned. Greyhounds are particularly sensitive to the chemical in flea collars. For
this reason, the only type of flea medication should be used is sprays or powders containing
PYRETHIN. As with any pet, regular veterinary check-ups are recommended.
6
BEFORE YOU BRING YOUR NEW PET HOME
Before the big day, you’ll need to make a few preparations:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Purchase a six-foot leather or nylon leash with a strong clasp to bring with you.
Purchase food and water dishes either in a raised rack or with a means to raise them
approximately 15” off the floor.
Purchase other supplies such as a crate, grooming mitt, toothbrush & toothpaste, bed,
collar, identification tag and toys.
Contact your adoption representative for recommendations on the type of food to feed
your new greyhound. Most quality food can be purchased at reputable pet stores or your
veterinarian.
Prepare your house for your new family member by removing any fragile knickknacks,
checking your fencing for holes and weak spots, and placing clips or locks on your gates.
You will also want to check the latches and locks on screen doors and mark large windows
and sliding doors with a band of tape for easy visibility.
Clear your kitchen counter of any tempting treats and cover your waste container with a
secure lid or place it inside a cabinet.
Set your greyhound’s crate up in a room with no windows or high windows so there are no
visible distractions.
Select his sleeping place and arrange his bed. Our usual suggestion is in the master
bedroom with the door closed. Place his bed or crate next to your bed. This way you will
know if the dog needs to go out an it will also reassure the dog who has never slept alone
in his life. You don’t want the dog to have the run of the house at night. He could get in
all sorts of trouble.
Contact your veterinarian to alert him/her about your new family member.
Discuss greyhound pet rules with all family members, particularly children, to ensure an
easy transition period.
Review all recommended information about greyhounds and do not hesitate to contact
your adoption representative with any questions.
Read the chapter titled Supplements in the back of this care book. We have included
several items that may be of interest to you and may help your dog have the transition
from racing athlete to pampered pet.
To order a racing history report on your new greyhound, send a SASE to:
Rosnet, Inc.
6169 Jog Road C-5
Lake Worth, FL 33467
Be sure to use your dog’s official racing name in your request. You may also want to try
to access your dog’s racing history by going to the Rosnet website at
www.rosnet2000.net.com/rosnet/GRIdogreport.htm
7
The Ride Home
Greyhounds are good travelers. While they have never ridden in a car, they have been
transported in specially designed trucks. Normally they settle right down once the
drive is under way. Following are a few tips to make the drive an easy one:
•
•
•
•
8
Bring a six-foot-long leather or nylon leash with you.
Plan on two adults to bring your new pet home. A friendly greyhound that decides
to help the driver could cause an accident!
Prepare your care by putting an old blanket over your backseat. Not only will the
seat be more comfortable for the greyhound, but the blanket will protect your
upholstery as well. If you have a station wagon or van, an old comforter, blanket,
or similar soft item will provide a comfortable spot for your new pet.
Unless your trip is longer than four hours, you will not need to bring water or stop
to walk your dog.
Bringing Your New Pet Home
Bringing home a new pet is an exciting and rewarding experience. For the greyhound,
adjusting to the life of a pet from that of an ex-racer can take a few days. The
following are a few suggestions to make the transition easier:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
9
Once you get home, you should first offer your greyhound a chance to relieve
itself. Walk your dog back and forth in a small area until it does so.
Allow the dog to explore its new home at its own speed, but always under your
supervision. It will be much easier to establish good habits early than to correct
bad ones later.
Although your dog is used to living indoors, everything is new to him in your home.
As he sniffs his way through the house, you can offer words of encouragement or
discouragement.
The patterns you set in the first few days are the ones you will live with the rest
of your pet’s life. If you do not want your pet on the furniture, do not break
down at three a.m. and cuddle him on the couch!
Verbal commands are generally enough to train your greyhound. He/she will know
by the tone of your voice what is acceptable and what is not.
This will be a very stressful few days for your greyhound. It is best to keep
things quiet – delay the welcome home party for a week or two.
It is not unusual for a new pet to refuse to eat for a day or two. He will probably
drink more water than normal and consequently need to go out more often. Also,
he will need more rest than normal.
The change of diet and excitement of his new home may cause your new pet to
have diarrhea. Should this occur, give your dog two teaspoons of Kaopectate
every hour for four hours or until diarrhea stops. If it continues for more than a
day, consult your veterinarian.
Feeding Your New Pet
Your new greyhound has had his diet adjusted from the special high calorie, high protein
racing diet he required as a professional athlete, to a top quality, well-balanced pet diet.
Mealtime “Do’s” and “Don’ts” are:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
10
DO feed your greyhound twice daily. Two to four cups of dry food is appropriate.
Follow the recommendations on your Foster Dog Profile. You may need to modify
the amount after the first few weeks according to your dog’s activity level and
age. You should be able to feel ribs and see the first 3 ribs only.
DO use a high quality food. Again, follow the recommendations on your Foster
Dog Profile.
DO pick a quiet corner of a room where your dog will stay when you are gone.
Feed him in this place each time. Remember to elevate his food and water bowls
at least 12” off the ground to allow him to eat comfortably without gulping air. If
he will stay in a crate when you are gone, feed him in the crate.
DO feed your dog at the same time every day. Greyhounds like consistency.
DO pick a time that will be convenient enough to allow you to let your dog out to
relieve himself about ½ hour after feeding.
DO monitor your dog’s eating habits. It is not unusual for a new greyhound to
refuse to eat for a day or two. To encourage eating, you may add a couple of
tablespoons of high quality canned food with warm water to the kibble.
DO pick up any food not eaten in 10 minutes and discard it. Repeat this routine at
the next feeding and your greyhound will learn mealtime limitations.
DO watch for itch, flaky skin. Cold, dry weather can irritate a greyhound’s skin.
During the dry winter months, add one to two tablespoons of vegetable oil to
their food, or use a product such as Linatone Plus over food.
DO treat your dog with carefully selected snacks such as Milkbones, Purina
biscuits or IAMS biscuits. A beef marrowbone is also an excellent treat.
DON’T let your greyhound eat everything in sight. Greyhounds generally have
excellent appetites and will eat anything. Unfortunately, everything doesn’t always
agree with their digestive tract. Despite what advertisers would have us believe,
your greyhound will be happiest with the same food every meal.
DON’T be surprised if you new pet expects to share your banana as you slice it
for your cereal. Your greyhound may have eaten bananas, apricots, pumpkin,
applesauce, spinach, and even vanilla ice cream on a limited basis as a racer.
•
•
•
•
•
•
DON’T ever feed your dog chocolate. Reactions to this tempting sweet vary from
dog to dog, but none are good. Chocolate contains ingredients that can speed your
dog’s heart rate to a fatal degree and can also cause allergic reactions.
DON’T feed your dog treats that are suppose to mimic human food like miniature
hot dogs or bacon. These usually contain too much dye and sugar. Stick to the
basics of good quality hard biscuits.
DON’T feed your greyhound from the table. This will only encourage bad habits
that are hard to break.
DON’T leave alluring items on kitchen counters. Greyhounds are curious by nature
and may sample items left within reach.
DON’T leave open foil bags of treats within your dog’s reach. There have been
tragedies were greyhounds have eaten the treats AND the bag and died from the
intestinal impaction from the bag.
DON’T be alarmed if your greyhound gulps down his meal. Greyhounds generally
“bolt” their food without much, if any, chewing.
If your dog has diarrhea, feed about ½ cup moistened dry food with 1 cup cooked rice
added. More rice can be used depending on the severity of the diarrhea. If the stool is
very loose, feed 1-cup rice mixed with 1-cup cottage cheese for 2 to 4 feedings.
Diarrhea can be expected in many of the dogs the first few days in their new home.
Adjust the amount of food accordingly if your dog is not a proper weight. Please call us
anytime for advice on this. Remember, the hipbones should be covered, but you should
still be able to see the last three ribs. An overweight greyhound cannot stay healthy
for long!
Treats are fine as long as they are not overfed. Remember NEVER, NEVER to give your
greyhound chocolate, meat fat, or raw onions. These are all potentially deadly.
Milkbone-type commercial or homemade biscuits are the safest treats. Bonz brand is
also good.
REMEMBER TO CALL US WITH ANY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS. WE ARE HERE TO
HELP YOU AND YOUR GREYHOUND LIVE HAPPILY EVER AFTER!!!
11
Greyhounds and Other Pets
One basic philosophy will describe the way to handle this situation: you are in charge;
they are not! When introducing your greyhound to other animals, follow these simple rules:
DOGS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Introduce them on neutral ground. This means having each dog on a leash and allowing him or her to
meet in an area your other pet doesn’t “own” such as down the block from your house.
After the initial sniffing, you should walk the dogs together for a short time and then bring them into
the house together. This is almost like having your other dog act as a host to the new greyhound.
Any sign of growling or aggression should be met with a quick jerk of the leash and a sharp “NO!”
Although greyhounds are used to sharing attention, your other dog may feel jealous and need a little
extra attention.
The dogs should be fed separately.
Until you feel confident that both dogs are comfortable with the new arrangement, you should not let
them out in the yard together.
Once you feel that they have accepted each other, you will be in for a treat as you watch the two of
them play. If your other dog is older or overweight, make sure he doesn’t overdo it trying to keep up
with his sleek, new roommate.
If your other pet is a very small breed, you should supervise play situations closely, especially at first.
Your greyhound’s playful chase and lunge could be too rough for a toy breed. You will need to teach
him/her otherwise. Remember, you are in charge.
CATS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
If you are introducing your new greyhound to a cat, you should shut the cat in one room as the
greyhound explores the house.
After the initial exploration, one adult should take the greyhound on his leash while the other lets the
cat out.
Keep the dog on a leash and place the muzzle on.
You don’t need to lead the dog, but you should follow him and be able to jerk and correct sharply if he
tries to dart for the cat.
After the initial introduction, you may remove the leash, but you should keep the muzzle on until you
feel confident. If your cat is familiar with dogs, this process usually goes quickly, especially if your
greyhound has been to “cat school” in his adoption program.
If your cat is older or very shy, the process could take several weeks.
The greyhound should be crated when no one is home.
Cat food has an irresistible smell to dogs and should be placed in a high spot so that the greyhound
can’t get to it.
Litter boxes should be hooded and turned to a corner to ensure peace for the cat and no access for
the dog.
BIRDS
•
•
12
Introduction of the greyhound to a caged bird follows the basic procedures above.
A severe jerk on the lead and/or collar accompanied by a bellowed “NO!” will do wonders.
Home Alone
Up until now, your greyhound has led a very different life than that of a house pet.
Even the simplest common things in our everyday life can be completely foreign to a
greyhound and a little intimidating. A little patience and a lot of love will help you and
your new pet make the adjustment. When leaving your greyhound home alone,
remember:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
13
One of the hardest things for your greyhound to adjust to will be loneliness. This
dog has lived its entire life with either littermates or kennelmates and people
coming and going most of the day.
Never leave your dog outdoors, particularly in the winter. With their short hair,
greyhounds are very susceptible to the cold.
Never tie your greyhound outside on a rope, chain, or “runner” as greyhounds are
not used to being tied to something stationary. They can get tangled up and
injure themselves, or will pull, wiggle, or chew their way out. They also could
forget they are tied, take off running at their blazing speed, and snap their neck
when they hit the end of the line.
A big asset in this adjustment period is the crate. This portable cage provides
the security your dog needs as well as protecting both the dog and your house
from each other.
Your pet is used to having his own crate in the kennel, a nice old bone, and a warm
comfortable place with a blanket in which to nap the day away. Using a crate is
not cruel. It provides the sense of security your dog needs.
The crate should be placed in a quiet spot where there are no windows to offer
visual distractions. A radio or TV will provide soothing background noises.
The first few days you should use an old washable blanket or something similar. A
favorite bone can be placed in it and the door left open.
At mealtime, place your dog and its food in the crate. This will reinforce the idea
that this is his own spot.
Before you leave your dog for an extended period, you should practice leaving for
short intervals and then build up.
The first time command him with “Pooch, kennel up” or “Pooch, go to bed”. You
can toss a small dog biscuit in the crate if you like. If the dog balks, place one
hand on his collar and one on his rump, and shove. Close the door and tell him how
good he is. About a minute later, open the door and praise him again.
The next time (even a few minutes later) repeat this process, but this time leave
the room. Plan to hide for several minutes and then let him out. This teaches him
that you always come home.
•
•
•
•
14
If your greyhound acts up when crated, stomp into the room and tell him he is
terrible and then stomp out again. You can even smack the top of the crate if you
like – ham it up! After a few minutes of quiet, praise him enthusiastically again.
Keep repeating this “crate game” extending to longer periods each time. It’s a
good idea to put your coat on and go outdoors as if to go to work and then listen
to protests from the porch. If there’s a problem, repeat your stomping
performance.
The crate will provide an escape for your dog if children are harassing him. Of
course, the strictly enforced rule is that no one bothers the dog when he is in the
crate.
If you decide not to use a crate because someone is home most of the time, you
should choose a room to keep the dog in when you are gone. You will need to
practice just like the people using crates. The adoption staff will be happy to
send a muzzle home and show you how to put it on. It will protect your dog and
your furnishings.
Exercise
A popular myth about greyhounds is that, as ex-athletes, they require a lot of exercise. In
reality, the greyhound is a pretty lazy hound. However, we do recommend a certain amount of
exercise, which not only is good for your dog, but good for you as well.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
15
The most obvious and easiest answer is in your own backyard. The typical greyhound enjoys a few
laps around the yard at top speed and then is finished.
Care should be taken to introduce your new greyhound to your yard or any new fenced area before
turning him loose in it. This means a walk around the fence so that the dog can familiarize himself
with the boundary.
You also should let the dog investigate hazards in your yard such as a barbecue or planter.
The first time your dog exercises in your yard off the leash should be in daylight and under an
adult’s supervision.
You may need to restrict your dog’s activity in a new area. Greyhounds have been conditioned for
sprinting and may become so excited and interested by a new exercise area that they overdo and
could overtax themselves.
If you plan to use your greyhound as a partner in a walking or jogging fitness program you should
have an enthusiastic partner as long as you start slowly.
Greyhounds exercised primarily on sand in their kennel situation, which means the pads on their
feet are smooth and soft. A little time must be taken to build up the calluses needed to exercise
with you on cement or blacktop. Start your dog’s regime the same way you did yours – slowly.
Walk or jog two or three blocks at first and then gradually increase.
Care should be taken during extreme temperatures. Your dog is susceptible to heat stroke, just
as you are. During hot weather it is wise to exercise early and easier. Make sure your dog is
completely cooled down before feeding.
Cold weather presents other hazards for this desert breed. A warm-up blanket (coat) made for
greyhounds is an excellent idea for walking or jogging in the winter. Check your dog’s feet for
snow packing, which can split webs or ice cuts. It’s also a good idea to swish the dog’s feet in
lukewarm water to rinse off salt and other ice melters after your walk.
Each dog is an individual with different activity levels. Generally, younger dogs enjoy higher
activity than older dogs. If your dog has a medical problem that would indicate a restricted
activity program, the adoption staff will advise you of those restrictions.
Most greyhound pets can be kept happy and healthy with a 10-minute walk daily. Although romping
and running in a large fenced area is fun, it is not essential.
One note of caution – exercising your dog off leash in an area that is not entirely enclosed is
asking for a disaster to happen. The greyhound has been bred to scan the horizon and run after
anything that moves. Something has small as a paper cup blowing across the street from the park
could mean your dog’s death. Once your pet is focused in on this moving object, he no longer hears
you, and he is running on pure instinct.
Most greyhounds walk very well on a leash. If your pet starts to pull or freezes as he sees
something on the horizon, “pop” or “snap” the leash to quickly jerk the collar and give the
command, “heel”, “let’s go” or something similar.
Equipment
Greyhounds need very little special equipment. We recommend the
following items:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
16
A six-foot leash of leather and nylon (not chain) with a heavy-duty clasp.
A nylon choke type (martingale) collar for walking. If your dog was to suddenly
back up or try to take off, he will not be able to escape when the collar tightens
behind his ears.
His adoption tag
His owner identification tag with the dog’s name and your phone number in clear
print
Grooming mitt or brush
Raised feeding rack and bowls
A crate for his own space. Plastic crate sizes should be 40”X27”X30” for females
and small males and 48”X32”X35” for large males. Wire crates should be extra
large for females and small males, and giant sized for large males.
17
Training Your Greyhound
One of the main reasons greyhounds make such wonderful pets is that they are easily
trainable. Retired racers believe that people are all knowing and all powerful, making
you the natural choice to set the ground rules. Keeping your dog under this illusion will
be a great benefit to your relationship! A few tips that will make the training process
go smoothly:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
18
The role as leader or coach of your greyhound is a serious responsibility. The
messages you send will shape your dog’s idea of the world.
Outline ahead of time what is acceptable and not acceptable behavior for your
greyhound and make sure all family members abide by the rules:
-Can he get on the furniture?
-Where can he sleep?
-Where can he eat?
-What will be his treats?
Be consistent. Don’t allow him/her to do one thing one day and not the next.
In most instances, a firm, sharp one of voice will be enough to reprimand your
greyhound.
Once your greyhound knows the family rules, another effective way to reprimand
him to firmly scold him and then totally ignore him for several minutes.
Greyhounds crave attention and this approach will reinforce his guilt.
Remember that your dog will respond to your reaction, not your words. If he
seems afraid of something new, and you cuddle and coo over him, he will quickly
get the idea that he should react timidly to any new situation. Instead, in with an
upbeat tone, encourage him to try the new situation and reassure him by stroking
his neck.
Be sure that home life is a new experience for your greyhound and simple things
such as stairs, glass doors, and shiny floors may frighten him at first. Take the
time to show him that these new things are no big deal and easily mastered.
Always praise your greyhound when he has done something good.
Throughout the dog’s life, he has relied on someone to set boundaries for him.
First his mother, then his trainer, now you. He is counting on you to tell him what
is good and what isn’t.
Always remember, you are in charge; he is not.
Housebreaking Hints
The main difference between greyhound hygiene habits and average pet habits is that
the greyhound expects you to tell him when it’s time to go. He has always expected his
trainer to let him out into his yard on a schedule, unlike a pet puppy that is taught to
scratch at the door to be let out.
However, because your greyhound is used to living indoors and going outdoors to relieve
himself, adjusting to his new lifestyle is relatively easy. Tips to follow include:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
19
Develop a schedule and stick as closely to it as you can.
The basics to keep in mind are:
-Out first thing in the morning
-Out after meals
-Out after naps
-Out before you leave
-Out before bed
It is important that you supervise your pet, especially at first. This gives you the
opportunity to praise your dog for doing the right thing and also to keep an eye on
him.
Greyhounds are used to going out in their yard with a human around. If you just
shove your pet out the door, he will spend more time worrying about where you
are than on what he is suppose to be doing.
If he doesn’t go when you expect him to during the first few days, you should
make an extra effort to keep him close to you so that you can prevent a mistake.
If you are busy, you should crate him.
If he looks antsy, he goes out again.
It is important to differentiate between bathroom walks and exercise walks. The
scheduled bathroom walks should be in a restricted area where the dog is taken
to do his duty. You should walk back and forth in this area or stand in one spot
and let the dog walk around you. Do not distract him with talk. When he goes,
praise him.
Grooming Your Greyhound
One of the nicest features of your pet greyhound is that he is virtually permanently
pressed! Grooming needs are minimal and take just a few minutes a day:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
20
Your greyhound should only be bathed with soiled. Greyhounds have little oil in
their skin so they have little “doggy odor” and rarely need a bath. Most of us
bathe our dogs about every 3 months.
When you need to shampoo, select a conditioning shampoo designed for animals
from a good pet supply store or your veterinarian. Never use human shampoo.
Even products as gentle as baby shampoo will seem harsh to your pet.
Be sure to rinse, rinse, rinse after bathing. Any soapy residue can be an irritant
to your dog’s sensitive skin.
Most of the year, a quick brushing with a soft bristle brush in the morning will
keep him looking great. During the spring and fall shedding weeks, you may need
to repeat this routine in the evening as well.
A short, nubbed, rubber brush will aid in the removing of stubborn elements such
as dead hair and dried mud. Rubber horse mitts also work well.
Be sure to check your dog’s ears every 1 to 2 weeks for excess wax and/or debris.
Clean them gently with a cotton ball dipped in alcohol or baby oil.
Greyhounds are used to having their nails trimmed while they stand. Just lean
over and bend each foot backwards, so that you can see the underside of the nail.
If you are nervous about trimming the nails, ask your vet, your adoption
representative, or local groomer to show you how much to trim.
Flea and tick control is one area that requires special effort on your part.
Greyhounds are extremely sensitive to chemicals and pesticides. The use of a
flea collar or medallion, or even grocery store flea spray, could kill your dog.
Greyhounds should be treated only with products containing PYRETHRIN as the
active ingredient. Brands such as Adam’s Flea-Off Mist and some Vet-Kem
products are appropriate. Check with your veterinarian if you are not sure. Don’t
gamble with your pet’s life.
Kids and Dogs
Although everyone’s favorite photographic subject, kids and dogs present special
problems for parents. Teaching the new greyhound his manners must go hand-in-hand
with teaching the children their manners around the new pet.
Please keep in mind that you are dealing with a live, adult animal with all the
accompanying instincts and needs. The greyhound is one of the most easy-going dog
breeds, but it is nonetheless just a dog.
In order to establish a loving relationship between greyhound and child, it is a wise idea
to review the following ideas and discuss them:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
21
The greyhound is not a toy. It deserves respect and responsible care.
No living creature would enjoy being pounced on while sleeping. Call the dog’s
name before startling any sleeping dog.
If the dog is sleeping, he needs rest. When he is ready to play, he will let you
know.
A greyhound needs a place of his own to rest undisturbed. A crate is an excellent
choice.
Small children often want to express their affection for the pet greyhound by
hugging or clinging to the dog. Teach your children that this can be “scary” for
the dog and encourage gently stroking of the neck and shoulders or brushing
instead.
Tails are private things, not play things.
It is important to reinforce to your dog the idea that children are part of the
“human coaching team”, not littermates. Even though a child may be eye level,
your dog must understand that the child is still a person and must respond
accordingly. For this reason, we strongly recommend that your greyhound does
not share your child’s bed or bedroom.
Veterinary Care
Greyhounds are a very healthy breed with none of the inherited health problems
commonly found in other large breeds. Prior to your adoption your dog was spayed or
neutered, checked for heartworm, tick borne diseases and parasites, and had all
vaccinations brought up to date. Refer to your Foster Dog Profile for the exact dates
of this care and the due dates for annual vaccinations. Please give your veterinarian a
copy of the Foster Dog Profile to establish your new dog’s medical record.
Following is a list of medical recommendations you will want to follow to help your
greyhound lead a long and healthy life:
• Take your dog in for an annual checkup and vaccinations. Be sure your
veterinarian checks your dog’s teeth for tartar buildup. Frequent brushing with a
good canine toothpaste will help your greyhound’s teeth stay clean, however he is
susceptible to gingivitis due to the food he was fed during his race career.
Watch your dog’s gums closely for excessive redness, swelling, or bleeding.
Bacteria from dirty teeth can enter a dog’s bloodstream and cause damage to the
vital organs, which, in the worst case, can be fatal.
• Have your dog checked for heartworm each spring and start him on heartworm
preventative medication according to the recommendations of your veterinarian.
Heartgard and Interceptor are two very good preventatives. See the
supplemental article on parasites in the back of this book.
• Before allowing your dog to be anesthetized or tranquilized, be sure your
veterinarian is familiar with the procedure and dosages appropriate for
greyhounds. Have a complete blood test run before any anesthesia is
administered to dogs age 5 and older. Thiobarbituates that contain sulfur, such
as Pentathol, should be avoided in greyhounds as their livers have great difficultly
metabolizing them. Remember your greyhound has a low percentage of body fat
as compared to other breeds. The level of some anesthetics falls by going into
the body fat. The lower the body fat content, the slower the body can clear the
blood of anesthetics. Two short acting inhaled anesthetics that are well
tolerated by greyhounds are Halothane and Isoflurane.
Your Foster Dog Profile includes the name and phone number of the veterinarian who
treated your dog. Please encourage your veterinarian to contact ours if there are any
questions.
22
COMMON PARASITES – Transmission, Effect & Control
By Robyn Phillips
Following is a list of parasites and parasitic diseases that can be found in
greyhounds. The list includes common worms (cestodes and nematodes) and tick
diseases. Please note - your retired racer has been checked for worms,
heartworms and a tick borne disease called ehrlichiosis. Refer to your Foster Dog
Profile for the results of these tests.
Roundworms
•
•
•
Transmission via oral ingestion of eggs in contaminated soil
Effect on animal – Light infection may cause intermittent diarrhea; severe
infection can cause intestinal obstruction.
Control – Keep dog’s area clean and free of feces.
Whipworms
•
•
•
23
Transmission via oral ingestion of eggs in contaminated soil
Effect on animal –irritation of the wall of the cecum and large intestine. Severe
infections can cause profuse diarrhea possibly containing blood, weight loss and a
failure to thrive.
Control - Keep dog’s area clean and free of feces and well drained as eggs survive
in warm, moist environments.
Hookworms
•
•
•
Transmission – Larvae is absorbed through pads and skin from infected feces.
Larvae can also be ingested in contaminated soil and from eating infected rodents.
Effect on animal – Adult worms rupture blood vessels in the intestinal wall and
feed on the blood. Symptoms can include dark colored or mucous diarrhea due to
blood, anemia, swelling of the limbs, weakness, weight loss, poor coat condition
and irritation of the skin or paws at the points of entry.
Control - Keep dog’s area clean and free of feces.
Tapeworms
Tapeworm segments in feces
Appear as grains of rice
•
•
•
24
Transmission – biting at and ingestion of infected fleas and lice
Effect on animal – no effect in light infections. In heavy infections the worms
compete with the animal for ingested food and cause chronic inflammation of the
intestine. Segments that break off and are motile may cause intense itching of
the anal region.
Control – reduction of the flea and louse population.
Heartworms
• Transmission from dog to dog via mosquito as intermediate host.
• Effect on animal – inflammation of the arterial walls and obstruction of
blood vessels. Heart valves are kept open by the worms rendering the heart
inefficient. May develop a chronic cough, lack of stamina, weakness or
collapse after exercise, swelling in the abdomen, chest and limbs. Dogs can
be infected for 9 – 0 months without signs and symptoms.
• Control – monthly heartworm preventative
Heartworm infection is diagnosed via a blood test. The other infections are
diagnosed through stool samples. Contact your veterinarian if you suspect your
greyhound has any of the above infections. All medications for treatment of these
infections are by prescription only and must be ordered by your veterinarian.
25
26
27
28
29
See your veterinarian immediately if you suspect either of these tick diseases in your
greyhound. We have inserted a brochure and requisition form from Protatek Laboratory
in the back of this Care Book. You can give this form to your veterinarian if he or she
feels a blood test is appropriate for your dog. Protatek is the premier lab in the United
States for tick disease testing.
30
Gastric Dilatative Volvulus (Bloat)
Gastric: The stomach
Dilatative: Dilated or stretched beyond normal dimensions
Volvulus: Rotation
Putting the words together, gastric dilatative volvulus is an emergency medical and surgical disease
whereby the stomach distends with gas beyond its normal dimensions. This, in turn, causes the stomach
to rotate causing a blockage of the gaseous outflow from the stomach, and a blockage of proper blood
supply to the stomach. The decreased blood supply becomes life threatening because of irreversible
damage to stomach tissues and the build up of toxins in the blood stream. Early recognition of the clinical
signs is of paramount importance to the successful treatment of this potentially fatal disease.
ETIOLOGY
The cause of bloat is currently NOT KNOWN. Possible contributing factors are: type of food, change of
diet, rapid eating or drinking, overeating, calcium intake, swallowing air, exercise before and after eating,
gas producing bacteria, bacterial toxins, stomach hormonal imbalances, stomach nerve and muscle
abnormalities, foreign bodies causing obstruction to flow, external obstruction to flow (tumors, etc.) and
possible others.
BREED PREDISPOSITION
The disease mainly occurs in deep chested breeds such as Greyhounds, German Shepards, Irish setters,
Bloodhounds, Great Danes, St. Bernards, and standard poodles. The one exception is Dachshunds. In
puppies, a simple gastric distension without volvulus is more common, usually due to overeating.
CLINICAL SIGNS
INITIALLY SUBTLE: Anxiety, whining, pacing, getting up and down, stretching,
looking at abdomen
PROGRESSIVE:
Abdominal fullness, swallowing frequently, drooling
ADVANCED:
Non-productive attempts to vomit, retching saliva, abdominal distension, difficulty
breathing, gray mucous membranes, collapse
NOTE: THE STOMACH DOES NOT ALWAYS APPEAR DISTENDED
OWNER MANAGEMENT: Recognize the symptoms early.
Transport your pet immediately to your veterinarian if you suspect bloat – IT IS AN EMERGENCY!!!
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PREVENTION
Feed large dogs of susceptible breeds two or three times daily rather than one big meal daily.
Keep food and water dishes raised at least 12 inches off the floor.
Feed at times when someone will be at home to observe after-feeding behavior.
Be aware of early clinical signs and seek veterinary care early.
Make water available at all times but limit intake immediately after feeding or if dog over consumes.
Avoid vigorous exercise one hour before and two hours after a meal.
Avoid an abrupt change in diet.
31
Playing With Your Pet
Greyhounds love to play with their new family and you need not spend a lot of money on
special, fancy toys. A few suggestions:
• One of the most popular toys in the Adoption Center living room is a cotton rope
toss about a foot long. Not only is it safe, durable, and fun for your pet, it also
flosses his teeth!
• Nylon rope toys should be avoided.
• Beware of rawhide toys. Inexpensive rawhide is cured overseas and often with
dangerous chemicals like arsenic. Safely cured, American rawhide can be quite
expensive and the typical greyhound can wipe out a $5 chew-bone in just a few
minutes. Rawhide can leave little nasty bits on your carpet, and more importantly,
can slide down your dog’s throat and then stick. If you must splurge on a rawhide
treat, please supervise.
• Some greyhounds like to play with a tennis ball. Remember, your pet was bred to
chase critters on the ground so roll or bowl the ball, don’t throw it. Once the ball
is punctured, it should be discarded.
• A shank or marrow bone at least five inches long from your butcher will provide
hours of enjoyment for your dog and can be a great doggie pacifier.
• Almost every greyhound we have placed has done his own adoption of a stuffed
animal, throw pillow, or scatter rug. This breed just seems to need something
fuzzy to snuggle up with – so be prepared.
• A Nylabone may seem rather expensive at first, but it will last forever and
provide a good cleaning action for your dog’s teeth.
You may not get to see the silly side of your greyhound for a while. He will probably not
feel like letting his puppy personality out until he feels quite secure. When you see the
classic bottom up, front end down pose bouncing in front of you, you will know that it is
time to play.
• Outdoor games with your greyhound should be closely supervised, especially
initially, and until both child and dog are fully trained.
• Instead of running and jumping with your new pet, have your child join you as you
stand in place and happily encourage your dog to come to you with each person
taking a turn. This provides exercise for the dog and reminds him that all people
are in control – large and small.
• The main rule to keep in mind concerning children and dogs is easy – SAFETY
FIRST. This applies to both the dog and the kids. Do not leave your children and
dogs alone together. If you cannot supervise, crate your dog.
32
A Closing Word
The previous pages have been filled with warnings, don’t, and a lot of advice. Many of
you adopting your first greyhounds won’t have any problems at all. The greyhound will
come into your home, fall in love with you, you with him or her, and all of you will live
happily ever after. Most of our owners now claim they will never have any other type of
dog because their retired greyhound has “spoiled” them! This is true. Sweet, gentle,
loving, clean, quiet, and smart – there simply aren’t enough adjectives to describe all of
these greyhound’s fine qualities!
Several adoptive owners haven taken their greyhounds through obedience classes and
competitions. These dogs do quite well, and it is an enjoyable experience for both
human and hound.
Remember we are available to you for consultation. PLEASE, PLEASE do not hesitate to
call if you are having any problems that you cannot resolve or have any questions at all.
That is our job – to make this adoption process go smoothly.
With your love, patience, and understanding, your newly adopted greyhound will become
your nearest and dearest friend. These greyhounds actually appear grateful for their
new homes and will return the love you give them 110%!! Few things in life are as
rewarding as taking one of these gentle dogs into your home. So, congratulations and
good luck!
Please remember that is VERY IMPORTANT to keep your dogs on leash with two
additional accounts about the dangers of having a greyhound off lead in an unfenced
area:
The first account is really a basic tragic accident, due to not having a properly fitting
collar. The owners actually had the dog on a lead but unfortunately were only using a
flat buckle collar on the dog. The dog became frightened at something and just back
out of her collar. She took off away from them at top speed. Before they could manage
to even got close to catching up with her, she had run out onto the road and was
instantly killed by a car. This is one of the reasons we stress using Premier Martingale
Collars, which provide some limited choke-type action while walking your greyhound in an
unfenced area.
The second account involves too much trust and a lack of common sense. The owners
lived somewhat out in the country. Woods surrounded their home and they were well
b
off any major roadways. They had their new greyhound about three weeks. These
owners did have a fenced yard, but they had sworn they would keep the dog on lead
when taken outdoors. Upon further questioning it was discovered that they quit using
the lead after about the first week. The weather had gotten cold, and so early in the
mornings that they would simply turn her out the back door, wait for her to “do her
business”, then call her back in. “She ALWAYS came when she was called,” the woman
lamented. They felt it was safe enough to allow her off lead for just shorts bits of
time, as they didn’t live near a high traffic road, and she never ventured into the woods
before. Unfortunately, the little greyhound DID bound off into the woods this
particular morning. Perhaps she heard a squirrel rustling in some nearby leaves or
smelled a rabbit, but whatever the reason, she had taken off into the woods, and they
could not find her. Hopes of finding her safe and sound faded a little more with each
passing day, and there were no signs of the pretty, little female greyhound.
After several weeks, their worst fears were confirmed. They got a call from a nice
man, who had been walking through the woods with his son when they discovered the
still, cold body of a small, dead greyhound. He got their number from her collar ID tag.
She was found many, many miles from her home.
Why did she run off this time when she had been so reliable before? Why didn’t she
come racing back home as she always had when her family called her? Who knows.
What we do know is that ultimately dogs will be dogs. No matter how much nor how long
you train and teach your dog, there will come a point where their instincts will win over
learned behavior. Please don’t be fooled into a false sense of security with your
greyhound. Take the time, make that little extra effort to ensure your greyhound will
be safe. Remember, they are depending on you.
c
Books for Playing, Training, and Enjoying!
***Very, very good book!
How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend
How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend will tell you how to select a dog to fit your
lifestyle and where to find it, how to read pedigree, how and when to train, about proper
use of praise and discipline, how to feed and care for your dog, about dogs and
protection, and about dog behavior problems and how to correct them. A complete
obedience course included, and there are specific chapters on city, suburban, and
country dogs.
** Very good book
Play Training Your Dog, Patricia Gail Burham
Play Training Your Dog provides an alternative to the violence that conventional
teaching methods inflict on the minds and bodies of dogs. Using widely known,
standardized exercises from the American Kennel Club, and written in a clear,
informative style, this book contributes to realizing the full potential of both the dog
and the dog owner relationship
Behavior Problems in Dogs, William Campbell
There are on the market today a few books dealing with why dogs misbehave –
and these will certainly help you in understanding your dog – but Mr. Campbell’s Behavior
Problems in Dogs is the first to give specific step-by-step methods of correction.
Moreover, they work. Veterinarians will find the book indispensable as a source of
practical answers to questions posed by their clients and dog owners everywhere would
be well advised to have their own copy close at hand.
d
Born to Run
By Patricia Gail Burnham
If “snappy”, “fragile”, and “high-strung” come to mind when someone mentions the
greyhound, whippet, or Italian greyhound, think again.
Some types of dogs become so popular that people start to want them in different sizes
to fit different lifestyles. The three sizes of poodles and schnauzers are examples of
this phenomenon, as is the trio of running dogs known as greyhounds, whippets, and
Italian greyhounds. The greyhound, which was developed as a hunting dog, is the largest
of the three. The Italian greyhound, which became popular during the Italian
Renaissance when the breeding of the miniature dogs became a fad, is the smallest. The
medium-sized runner, the whippet, is the newest of the three breeds. It was created
by interbreeding small greyhounds with terriers (and possibly Italian greyhounds) so
that the British workingman could afford to own, race and wager on a dog without having
to starve his family to feed it.
Whatever their size, these specialized dogs were bred to fit the demands of highspeed racing. Their function sculpted their form. The miracle is that the resulting
streamlined bodies and elegant heads are also things of beauty. Their resemblance to
deer is often remarked upon and with their alert expressions, long legs and necks, and
muscular bodies, it is not hard to see why. For centuries they have been the darlings of
artists, the companions of royal hunters and aristocratic ladies, and mine and factory
workers.
ORIGINS
Compared to most animals, man is a very slow runner, but he is clever. So when the
problem of how to catch open-country rabbits or deer arose back in the days before
guns, the solution was obvious – develop a dog that could do it. The result of that
development, the greyhound, has fulfilled its purpose magnificently for thousands of
years. It has a slender runner’s body and a deep chest to hold a heart and lungs that
are larger than those of other dogs. Its coat is very short and silken to enable it to
radiate heat from its body when it is in pursuit. Its eyesight is phenomenal. The
average dog is very nearsighted, relying on its sense of smell for a great deal of
information. Not so the family of “sighthounds”. The greyhound, whippet, and Italian
greyhound can spot moving objects up to half a mile away.
e
TEMPERAMENT
The running heritage of the greyhound, whippet, and Italian greyhound affects the dogs’
temperaments. They are usually gentle and gentlemanly dogs because they were often
hunted and raced against dogs they had just met. If one man had a greyhound or
whippet he thought was better than someone else’s, then the two would arrange to run
the dogs against each other, often with a sizeable bet on the outcome. If either dog
chose to interfere with the other instead of running, it would be discarded. (Even
today, interference with another dog is a quick way to be banned from further racing.)
Centuries of this type of selection created a peaceful dog.
The method in which these dogs hunted also contributed to their temperaments.
Traditionally, the greyhounds were walked on a lead until game was sighted, then they
were released, or “slipped”, from special quick-release collars. From that point, they
were on their own, pitting their speed, coordination and running strategies against their
quarries. As a hunting method, this is far better than shooting animals. With a rifle,
anything that comes the hunter’s way can be killed. In hunting with greyhounds,
however, quarry that is exceptionally fast, clever, and healthy will usually escape, while
the old, slow, and stupid ones are caught. Greyhounds fill the role of any natural
predator: They improve the quality of their prey by removing inferior animals. Only the
strongest will survive, as nature intended.
This “decision-making on the run”, without help from their human partners, has led to a
certain aloofness in the running breeds. While they may love us, they do not look to us
for advice before making up their own minds. This has led some people to feel that
sighthounds are “too dumb” to train, but this almost always turns out to be said about a
dog that has its owner perfectly trained to the dog’s own tastes. Many sighthounds are
very too smart to train. They can think of limitless ways to avoid doing things they do
not want to do, and they do not have to the working dogs’ inborn drive to please their
masters. As a result, it is easy to train a sighthound to do anything you can convince it
that it wants to do. These are not dogs for the hard, military-style disciplinarian. They
are sensitive, independent dogs who return affection but who do not understand or
respond to harsh training methods.
For the person who appreciates their athletic beauty and admires their independent
intelligence, the gaiety of their personalities and the thrill of their astonishing running
and jumping abilities, these dogs can make highly rewarding pets. They are the Ferraris
and Maseratis of the dog world, the high-performance dog breeds, and like racecars and
racehorses, they require extra care to do their best. Young greyhounds, whippets, and
Italian greyhounds have formidable energy levels that need a constructive outlet. A
daily walk with an opportunity to run safely will do it. The sighthounds were not bred to
f
run all day like many sporting dogs. They are basically sprinting dogs, able to expand
enormous amounts of energy in a few minutes, but willing to rest afterwards. As these
dogs grow older the demands for active exercise decrease and they mellow into a very
civilized middle age. Senior sighthounds made dogdom’s finest house pets.
PERSONALITY
The runners are not normally thought of as children’s pets, but because of their gentle
nature, if they are raised with well-mannered children, they can become devoted
companions. For this, it is a good idea to select the most outgoing and unexcitable puppy
of the litter.
They are not good kennel dogs. They do not like being alone for long periods of time.
They are active and companionable, and for the person who cannot be with them full
time, it can be a good idea to have a pair so they can keep each other company. An old
kennel manager’s favorite saying was, “Raising one puppy is twice as much trouble as
raising two.” There is much truth in this: For a single puppy, the owner has to provide
all the exercise and companionship. Two puppies can be playmates for each other.
The whippet and greyhound are not the kind of dogs to get if you do not want dogs on
your furniture. There is so little fat and padding between their skeletons and the
outside world that they are uncomfortable lying on any hard surface and will seek out
pillows, couches, and beds. Owners should provide soft resting places, inside and out.
They are watch, but not attack, dogs. They can be taught to bark at strangers, and
once one dog in a group does it, the others catch on quickly. Normally, however, these
dogs are best known for being clean, quiet, graceful, incredibly quick, fairly independent,
and loving – and talented food thieves. One disadvantage of the greyhound over the two
shorter breeds is that God made the greyhound’s nose the same height as the kitchen
table, and its born instinct to sight prey and go after it can apply equally well to the
family dinner.
Genetically, these three breeds are exceptionally “clean”, in terms of hereditary health
problems. Hip dysphasia and eye problems are virtually unknown. Monorchidism (one
undescended testicle), though fairly common, has no outward effect on health.
Affected dogs are removed from breeding programs and make excellent and inexpensive
pets. All three breeds are somewhat accident prone, however. Their speed, thin skin
and lightweight frames make them subject to accidents other dogs wouldn’t even notice.
If one hooked its skin on a projecting twig or nail when it is running, for example, the
result will be a triangular tear that will need sutures to prevent unsightly scars. The
largest of the three, the greyhound, like most deep-bodied dogs, is subject to bloat
g
(gastric torsion) and should not run just after it has eaten. Correct diet is important in
preventing bloat. All three dogs, because of their high-energy requirements, need an
excellent quality, very digestible, high protein diet. A good quality diet also enhances
the warm, velvety feel of their coats and adds to their “hugability).
GREYHOUND
Modern greyhounds are bred separately for racing, hunting, and show purposes. They
can vary in size from 45 points to more than 100 pounds for large show males. If you
are interested in obtaining one of these dogs, talk to someone who can explain the
different types and provide a dog that will suite your needs. Only dogs registered with
the National Greyhound Association can race (The NGA registers about 20,000
greyhounds a year compared to about 100 show greyhounds registered with the AKC.
Nobody keeps count of the greyhounds bred strictly for hunting.) All types, however,
can be shown and hunted. In addition to shows, obedience and tracking, the running
sports open to greyhounds are field trials, lure coursing and racing.
WHIPPET
Although they originated as race dogs, rumor has it that whippets were also popular
with poachers. Their small size allowed them to be concealed inside a jacket until the
coast was clear and they could be hunted. Their small size, unsurpassed turning ability
and great sprint speed were perfectly suited to hunting in small farm fields or to racing
in city streets. In traditional whippet racing, the dog would be started by a slipper, a
burly young man who would actually throw the dog into stride at the start. The dog
would “hit the ground running” and race to its owner who was at the other end of the
straightaway waving a towel or rag. The dogs thus became known for a time as “rag
dogs”. In addition to show, obedience and tracking, whippets can compete in four
running events: field trials, oval track racing, straight (NPR) racing and luring coursing.
ITALIAN GREYHOUND
Like many toy dogs, the “English Greyhound in Miniature” were intended to be
functional, as well as elegant companions to ladies. Old villas and castles were without
central heat and they were useful as a portable heating pad. Keeping one in the lap was
even recommended as a cure for “ladies problems” – a polite term for menstrual camps,
and the combination of heat and pressure could very well have been effective. In
addition, the dogs acted as “decoys” to attract the assorted fleas that might surround
milady. They could also warn her of intruders and chase off passing rodents. Curiously,
for a dog that looks rather lean and bony, and Italian greyhound has a voluptuous little
rump that earned him high status as a lap dog right from the start.
h
Building a Relationship Between Child and Dog
(Living with Dogs, Liz Palika)
Most of the time, a child who grows up with a dog gains many psychological benefits. He
or she learns assertiveness, sharing, discipline, and love. Owning a dog can be a
wonderful experience for a child, but both the child and the pup need to learn some
basic rules. If your family is adopting a dog this summer, the following tips will help
everyone learn to get along.
A dog is not a stuffed toy; it feels both pressure and pain. It is fine for a child to want
to see how a dog’s teeth are different from its own, but the exploration must be done
only under parental supervision. A child needs to learn that the dog may not enjoy being
poked and prodded – that sometimes poking can hurt.
Tails, ears, and hair are not made for pulling – even though they many seem perfect for
that purpose.
Demonstrate on the child how to pet the dog. Then show the child how to pet the dog:
how to stroke with the direction of the coat, how to scratch around the ears and how to
rub the tummy.
Explain why wrestling with the dog is not a good way to play. Wrestling teaches the dog
to use its strength against the weaker owner, and it teaches the dog that it can win in a
match of strength.
Instead, show a child retrieving games she can play with the puppy. Teach a child the
words that mean “drop the ball” and show the child how to throw a toy or ball for a dog
to chase. Explain that the child shouldn’t run away with the pup’s toy, or the pup will
chase and try to take it away.
If a child is frightened by a dog, he should never scream and run away from it;
screaming and running excites dogs. Demonstrate this by going out in the yard with the
puppy, and yelling shrilly and running away. The pup will probably get excited and start
barking and jumping.
Then demonstrate how the child can calm the dog and protect himself from harm. The
method used depends on the child’s age and the size difference between the child and
the puppy.
i
An older child can stand still, arms folded over the chest or near the face, and tell the
puppy in a deep voice, “NO! Shame on you! That’s enough!” Make sure this is practiced
under parental supervision so the child knows how to do it and the puppy knows what it
means.
Teach a smaller or younger child to roll up in a ball with the arms protecting the face
and the hands tucked in. Treat it as a game and practice often enough that the child is
comfortable with the action and the puppy knows that this action means the game is
over.
A young child cannot be responsible for the dog’s upkeep, but he or she can help. Show
her how to fill the water bowl, and explain that puppies get thirsty just as people do.
Let the young owner count the scoops of dog food, and explain why the might get
defensive around its food. Show the proper way to brush the puppy’s hair.
The puppy needs to learn some important rules, too. These must be enforced by a
parent, especially in the beginning, because most young child won’t be able to command a
puppy’s respect on their own.
Teach the pup that all people, even small ones, rank above it in the pack order. A child
can discipline a young puppy by grasping the scruff of the neck and saying her deepest
voice, “That’s enough!” but a parent should always be there to back up the child’s
correction.
Don’t let the pup dash through an open door; instead teach it to wait until the person
has walked through first. Teach the puppy not to jump on people and not to use its
mouth on anyone. The puppy also needs to learn that mounting a child – or anyone else –
is forbidden.
Even when a good relationship is established, parental supervision is still necessary for
those times when dog or child forget the rules.
The friendship between a dog and a child is a special one. A dog is a great confidant: It
never tells secrets and it never criticizes. It will listen to tales of childhood woe and
will lick away the tears that fall. A dog is something warm and loving to hold onto during
a thunderstorm, or when Mom or Dad has scolded.
j
Vet Views
Cleaning Your Pet’s Ears
By Tania Banak
A dog or cat’s ear canals are “L”-shaped rather than straight like in humans. This can
make it difficult to detect problems in a pet’s ear. Yet there are some general signs an
owner can look for.
Those signs include head shaking, scratching at the ears, excessive discharge, or a bad
smell coming from the ears, according to Dr. Donna Vicini, a small animal veterinarian at
University of Illinois Veterinary Medicine Teaching Hospital. “If you see any of these
signs in your pet, contact your veterinarian, “ she recommends. “Overhanging ears have
a tendency to be more oily and are especially prone to developing bacterial or yeast
infections.
She explains that sometimes grass or other foreign bodies get into an animal’s ears and
cause irritation. More commonly, problems could be due to bacterial, yeast, or parasite
infection. Even allergies can cause itch ears. All of these problems are treated
differently. Your veterinarian will recommend the appropriate procedure. “Dirty, waxy
ears usually do not cause discomfort but should be cleaned,” Dr. Vicini notes. “Routine
cleaning can be easily done by owners.”
If a pet’s earns need cleaning, place several drops of mineral oil in the ear canal,
massage the ear to help dissolve the wax, then use cotton swabs or balls to gently
remove the wax from the canal. Cleaning that is too vigorous can actually injure the ear.
“As long as owners are gentle with their pet’s ears during the cleaning process it is not
painful and most animals generally accept the process fairly well,” she points out. “It’s
still a good idea to have someone hold the pet’s head to keep it from moving
unexpectedly.”
If ear cleaning causes pain or your pet shows any signs of ear problems, be sure to have
your veterinarian examine the animal. “Prompt treatment can prevent more serious
problems in the future,” Dr. Vicini says. “The longer an infection is allowed to persist,
the more likely it is to be complicated with secondary bacterial infections and to cause
permanent damage.”
She warns that pet owners should never use anything other than mineral oil in their
pet’s ears unless a veterinarian has recommended it.
k
Neutering can be Beneficial to Pet’s Health
Tania Banak
Pets that have not been “fixed” or neutered are more likely to develop health problems.
These problems are in addition to behavior problems that many full male or female pets
may cause their owners.
“Neutering an animal early in life can help prevent both behavioral and medical
problems,” says Dr. Allan Paul, Small Animal Extension Veterinarian at the University of
Veterinary Medicine. For example, females are much less likely to get mammary or
breast cancer if they are neutered before their second heat. In addition, they won’t
get uterine infections, tumors of the ovaries or uterus, or be prone to a condition called
false pregnancy.
In males, castration will reduce the incidence of prostrate disease and of tumors or
hernias in the anal region. It also eliminates the risk of testicular tumors, which are
very common in intact male dogs.
Dr. Paul points out that the biggest disadvantage to neutering an animal is that it will be
unable to reproduce, and in most cases that’s not a disadvantage at all.
In the male, neutering or castration involves removing the testicles. In females, the
surgery is called ovariohysterectomy or a spay and involves removing the uterus and
ovaries.
Once an animal is neutered, certain behavior may also be affected. For example, male
dogs will tend to stop roaming, male cats generally won’t spray anymore, female cats and
dogs will no longer attract droves of males, and males may stop fighting with each other.
“People worry about whether the surgery will hurt their animal,” Dr. Paul says.
“Although animals can’t tell us whether or how much they hurt after surgery, they do
act normally shortly afterwards. An animal that’s in pain won’t that way.”
Pet owners may also worry about weight gain and personality changes in a neutered pet.
But, Dr. Paul reassures them that neither fear is founded in fact. “Fatness is due to
overeating, not neutering,” he says. “An animal may need fewer calories after it’s
neutered, and most animals will stop when they’ve had enough to eat.”
l
m
n
Never, Ever, Ever…
By Larry Phillips
It was a typical Sunday morning in the Phillips’ household. Robyn was busy working with her
orchids, and I strolled down to get the newspaper. Scanning the headlines, I immediately
became sick to my stomach. On the front page was the headline, “We Don’t Rescue Animals,
Greyhound Drowns in Icy Fox River.”
The article stated that a greyhound had run from its owner’s yard and wandered onto the ice
near the Highway 41 bridge. Passers-by attempted to contact local officials to try to get the
dog off the ice. These concerned peopled watched for 55 minutes as this confused and scared
little female greyhound broke through the ice and struggled in the icy, cold water to survive,
ultimately losing the battle and drowning.
Several attempts from the passer-bys and the Wisconsin State Patrol could do nothing to
summon a rescue attempt from any one of a number of departments that had the ability to try a
rescue.
Robyn and I read the story with horror, anger, frustration, and outright despair. We thought
of the poor animal, the trauma to the people who watched this animal suffer and drown, the
owner, and all the animal lovers who were going to feel as outraged as we did after reading this
story. The only thing I could do after reading the article was to walk through the house to the
various couches, dog beds and sun-beamed resting places to hug, kiss, and cuddle each one of our
“lucky” hounds.
Robyn and I wondered what we could do to have some impact on the situation. Robyn dashed off
two quick letters: one to the dispatcher’s supervisor commending him for his investigation into
the incident and his compassion for the poor animal, and the other to the local paper thanking
the passer-bys for trying to intervene. She stressed that “any unleashed or unfenced pet
(especially a greyhound) is a potentially dead pet.”
In the days that followed, stories were on television, radio, and in the newspaper. It made good
news. After all, here was a heartbroken owner who had lost her beloved pet complaining how
unfairly officials had responded to pleas for help. The results of the investigation revealed the
dispatcher had made a mistake. Perhaps something could have been done. And, in fact, a yellow
lab was rescued from the Fox River just several days ago as a result of this controversy.
Now some facts pieced together:
o
1. Joy (the dead greyhound) had run away the day before she drowned. The dog had left
the city limits so the Oshkosh Animal Shelter could not officially help, but volunteers
offered to try and catch her. The owner refused the help.
2. No rescue organization will put human life at significant risk to save an animal. The area
Joy was in is very treacherous due to the currents of the Fox River.
3. Even if a hovercraft had been scrambled to help Joy, it takes 45 minutes to prepare a
crew and launch the hovercraft for a rescue.
What’s the point of all of this? We, greyhound owners, at several of our adoption outings, have
discussed this event. Many have expressed opinions of anger at the owner, calling her
irresponsible, negligent, careless, and even stupid. It’s very easy for us to feel those emotions.
I’d like to offer one other opinion.
In looking at the pictures and the grief the owner displayed – pictures of the cute little brindle
female in her Christmas antlers, or a picture of Joy in her big fluffy dog bed in the living room –
it’s hard to brand this owner with many of these negative labels. There is no doubt in my mind
that she truly loved and will miss Joy for a long time to come.
She is guilty of several things that are probably more lethal to a greyhound than the labels
mentioned above. These include a deadly combination of trust and complacency. Quoting the
owner, “I’ve had Joy for five and a half years. I always let her out to go to the bathroom and
she was always at the door.”
There is only one good thing that can come out of this entire incident, and that is a wake-up call
to all greyhound owners and handlers out there. We’ve all heard the mantra. We chant it at
outings to prospective adopters. “These magnificent animals have been bred for so long and
intensely trained to chase. You can never, ever, ever trust them off the leash or out of a
fenced in yard.” (Sound familiar?) When all of us were first thinking of adopting, we had that
fact presented to us as the absolute commandment of greyhound ownership.
After time goes by and the chase instinct seems to fade, we get complacent. “My greyhound
would never run from me; he’s got it too good here.” So one day, we get comfortable and we
take a chance. Nothing happens. We gradually come to believe we have that rare dog that
doesn’t run. Joy’s owner thought so. After all, “she was always at the door” – except this time.
The next time you head north across the Butte des Morts bridge, look down and think of one of
your greyhounds fighting for its life in the icy waters with no real hope of rescue; fighting with
its last breath to get out of the water, to just come home and lay in its soft bed one last time.
Remember: Never, ever, ever…
p
q
r
s
t
u
v
w
x
y
z
aa
bb
cc
dd
ee
ff
gg
hh
ii
ll
mm
nn
Normal Canine Vital Signs
Heart Rate: 60-160 beats per minute
Respiratory Rate: 10-30 breaths per minute (unless panting)
Temperature: 100.5-102.5˚ Fahrenheit
Mucous Membrane color and refill time: Pink, <2 seconds
Normal Feline Vital Signs
Heart Rate: 150-250 beats per minute
Respiratory Rate: 15-30 breaths per minute (open mouthed breathing in cats is
considered an emergency)
Temperature: 100.5-102.5˚ Fahrenheit
Mucous Membrane color and refill time: Pink, <2 seconds
How to Obtain Vital Signs
Heart Rate: Place a hand over the chest or on the inside of the back leg and measure
pulse (please see demonstration).
Respiratory Rate: Watch the chest expand and deflate or place a wet finger in front of
the nostrils.
Temperature: Temperature should be taken rectally; newer human digital thermometers
work well.
2
What to Do in an Emergency
1. Stay calm. Keeping a cool head will allow you to address the situation and get the
necessarily help for your pet.
2. Contact your veterinary hospital. This will allow you to discuss treatment with
your veterinarian or make them aware of the fact that you are coming in. The office
will then be expecting you when you arrive.
3. Try to keep your dog as calm and quiet as possible. This will prevent motion
and thrashing which may aggravate any injuries that are present.
4. If necessary get to your veterinarian as soon as possible, but be careful!
Toe nail cut too short and bleeding while trimming
Apply a cautery powder obtained from a pet store or veterinary clinic and apply pressure
for 30-60 seconds. If a cautery powder is not available, flour can be used as a substitute.
Bleeding persisting following this treatment should be seen by a veterinarian.
Bleeding from lacerations or other injuries
Apply a clean cloth or sterile gauze with direct pressure for 5-7 minutes to stop bleeding.
If the blood is bright red and bleeds in “spurts,” this is likely arterial blood and is a life
threatening emergency. A tourniquet should not be applied unless absolutely necessary
and never for longer than 20 minutes. Cuts that bleed excessively, are longer than one
inch in length, or are more than skin deep should all be seen by a veterinarian. If the
injury does not meet any of the above criteria, you may simply shower off the area, apply
direct pressure, flush the wound with clean cool water and leave it open to heal. Some
wounds may also be wrapped for short periods (1-5 days). Triple antibiotic ointment or
Neosporin may be applied three times daily as healing progresses. Monitor your pet for
signs of loss of appetite, fever, redness, swelling or pain. If any of these signs are noted,
call your veterinarian.
4
Vomiting
All food and water should be withheld for 12 hours if vomiting occurs more than once.
Look for any evidence of blood, foreign bodies, or packaging in the vomit. If you
suspect your pet may have eaten something poisonous, bring a sample of the poison in its
original packaging if possible. The name of the active ingredient in the poison would be
helpful if the packaging cannot be brought in. Consult with your veterinarian
immediately if vomiting continues after the food and water are taken away or if vomiting
returns once it is replaced.
Poison
If your pet has eaten something poisonous, give 1 teaspoon (per 10 lbs. of the pet’s body
weight) of hydrogen peroxide orally every 10 minutes until your pet vomits (if no
vomiting has occurred following 30 minutes, a treatment by your veterinarian is likely
required). Call your veterinarian immediately. It is wise to contact your veterinarian
prior to administering the hydrogen peroxide as some poisons and toxins are made
worse if vomiting is induced, e.g. corrosive material such as strong acid, alkali, or
petroleum-based products.
Drowning
If the animal is unconscious, lift the rear legs into the air and squeeze on the chest firmly
until fluid ceases to drain from the mouth. Transport to a veterinary clinic immediately.
5
Heat Stroke
This condition is a reaction of the body to excessive internal temperatures (often in
excess of 105ºF. Clinical signs include: elevated heart and respiratory rate, sudden
collapse, and general distress. Take the animal to a cool shaded area and douse with cool
water. It is best not to soak the entire animal in cold water, rather to cool large portions
separately (this allows areas for the heat to escape). Transport to a veterinary clinic
immediately.
Bee or wasp sting
Apply a cold pack and/or anti-histamine cream to swelling to the affected area. If the
animal is having difficulty breathing or is developing significant swelling, it should be
transported to a veterinary clinic immediately. Oral Benadryl may help to control the
swelling (you should contact your veterinarian before giving oral Benadryl to your pet).
If the swelling is not markedly improved within 12-24 hours, consult with your
veterinarian.
Burns and scalds
Douse the area with cool running water, place wet towels over the affected area and
transport to a veterinary clinic.
Seizures
Try to keep your pet from injuring itself as best as possible. Do not put your hand near or
in its mouth, as your pet may accidentally bite you. Try to calm your pet following the
6
seizure. Staying in the dark may help them to recover as smoothly as possible. If your
pet has more than one seizure in 12-24 hours, they should be seen immediately as this can
be indicative of cluster seizures which can be fatal.
Hit By Car
Look to see if your pet is conscious and if the airway is obstructed. Do not put your
hands in your pet’s mouth. Cover any lacerations with the cleanest material available and
transport to a veterinary clinic immediately, ideally in a box, basket or cage. Towels,
blankets, etc. can also be used to support your pet while lifting.
Shock
This condition is a reaction of the body to some sort of trauma or stressful event. Clinical
signs include: lethargy, pale or white mucous membranes, weak pulse, elevated heart
rate, low body temperature, elevated respiratory rate, and cool limbs. This is a medical
emergency and you should transport your pet to a veterinarian immediately.
Choking
Carefully open your pets mouth and evaluate their mucous membrane color (blue is a
sign that there is significant airway obstruction). Look to see if anything is lodged on the
roof of the mouth or directly in the back of the mouth. You may try to dislodge a foreign
body if you can see it, but be careful not to get bitten or to further push the foreign body
down the airway. See the description of the “Heimlich maneuver” below.
7
Please refer to demonstration
Large breed dogs
1. Stand over your dog with your legs approximately at their shoulders facing
toward their back end. Your knees should be slightly flexed and holding the dog
in position.
2. Make one hand into a fist and cover it with your other hand.
3. Place your hands onto the dog’s abdomen and slide them forward until you feel the
beginning of the rib cage. At this point immediately prior to the rib cage, begin short and
sharp thrusts every few seconds to try to dislodge the foreign body. The direction of the
thrust should be oriented in a diagonal direction toward the dog’s head.
4. Repeat as needed.
Smaller breeds or unconscious animals
1. Lay the animal on its side and brace your knee against its back.
2. Again feel for the transition from the abdomen to the ribs. When it is found, hold your
hands as described above and make short and sharp thrusts downward every few seconds.
3. Repeat as needed.
You may also try the above techniques while holding the dog upside down (hold the animal’s
back against your chest) in order to use gravity to help dislodge the object.
Immediately following this procedure whether it is effective or not, you should transport
your dog to a veterinarian!!!
8
Please refer to demonstration
1. Access the airway by opening the animal’s mouth to look for an obstruction
and to note the color of the mucous membranes.
2. Straighten the neck of the animal with the head in line with the neck (be very
careful if neck trauma is suspected).
3. Close the mouth and give 2 mouth to nose breaths. If the breaths go in with
no problem, continue on as follows, if not, read above for the Heimlich
maneuver.
4. If the animal is not breathing on it’s own… breathing should be continued at
20 breaths/minute or 1 breath every 3 seconds.
5. Once the airway is established, lay the animal on its right side.
6. Feel for the presence of a pulse (see above on how to find a pulse).
7. If no pulse is felt, begin chest compressions by placing both hands on the
point of the chest where the left elbow meets the chest.
8. Give 3 compressions every 2 seconds. After 15 compressions, give 2 mouth
to nose breaths and then continue the compressions as necessary.
Immediately following this procedure whether it is effective or not, you should
transport your dog to a veterinarian!!!
9
1. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per 10 lbs. of body weight; do not exceed 3
tablespoons; contact veterinarian before using)
2. Triple Antibiotic Ointment
3. Saline eyewash (to rinse eyes if a poison or toxin is splashed)
4. Vetwrap (purchased through veterinarian; be careful not to wrap too tightly)
5. Electronic Thermometer
6. Rubber gloves and mask (if dealing with poison or toxin)
It is always best to consult with your veterinarian prior to administering first aid at home.
10
Please save a copy for your records and feel free to share a copy with your veterinarian as well.
This packet is made available through Greyhound Adoption of Ohio, Inc. by William E. Feeman III, DVM.
www.greyhoundadoptionofoh.org
www.animalmedicalcentreofmedina.com
www.vet.ohio-state.edu/2095.htm
www.greythealth.com
www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/greyhounds.htm
May 20, 2008
Congratulations on the adoption of your new Greyhound. If this is your first…
you will soon see why people who are owned by Greyhounds rave about them so
frequently. Provide a Greyhound a home and they will live in your heart.
Greyhounds have a unique physiology that can largely be attributed to their breed
history as sighthounds and as a racing breed. They have developed enlarged muscle
mass, hemoconcentrated blood, lengthened carpal/tarsal and metacarpal/metatarsal bones,
and a heightened sense of sight to help accommodate these evolutionary challenges.
Here are a few of the most common idiosyncrasies that you and your veterinarian should
be aware of:
1. Greyhounds normally have thyroid levels lower than other breeds. The most
overdiagnosed disease in Greyhounds today is hypothyroidism. Greyhounds have a
normal thyroid level that is lower than the reference ranges used for other breeds. You
should not start your Greyhound on supplementation for hypothyroidism unless your
Greyhound is showing clinical signs of the disease, for example hair loss, lethargy, or
weight gain (despite exercise and appropriate feeding) and a full thyroid panel has been
run (T4, fT4 by equilibrium dialysis, TSH, etc.; I recommend using the lab at Michigan
State for all thyroid testing). Many veterinarians will falsely interpret the lack of hair on
Greyhound thighs as a clinical sign of hypothyroidism. This hair loss is not commonly
caused by hypothyroidism (although hair may grow with supplementation). If your
veterinarian recommends thyroid supplementation, be sure that they have read or are
aware of the journal articles listed at the end of this packet and that the appropriate
clinical signs of hypothyroidism are truly present. There are some truly hypothyroid
Greyhounds out there… just not very many!
2. Greyhound Bloodwork I: Greyhounds can have high normal or mildly elevated BUN,
creatinine, and AST levels. Some veterinarians may falsely interpret some high normal
values as early kidney disease. If your Greyhound has high normal or just above normal
kidney values… ask your veterinarian to run a urinalysis. A urine specific gravity that is
>1.030 likely indicates that the blood levels are normal for the breed and not likely
caused by kidney disease. Diet, especially raw feeding, may also elevate the BUN and
creatinine. This can be screened for by fasting your Greyhound for 12-18 hours before
the blood draw.
3. Greyhound Bloodwork II: Greyhounds can have low platelets (as low as 80,000) and
still be normal. Tick borne diseases would be a primary differential for a low platelet
count, therefore, running tick titers on levels <100,000 could be justified.
4. Greyhound Bloodwork III: Greyhounds normally have a higher than normal number
of red blood cells (PCV, Hct) and a low normal number of white blood cells (WBCs)
in their blood. The PCV/Hct of normal Greyhounds can frequently be over 60% and
potentially as high as 70% whereas non-Greyhound dogs rarely exceed 45% to 50%. The
neutrophils and lymphocytes (both white blood cells) of Greyhounds very commonly are
mildly decreased or are on the low end of normal. Total WBC counts of 3.0-10.0 are
common and an Auburn study of 50 retired racers (March 2000 Compendium) showed
ranges of 1.8 to 14.6. Greyhound eosinophils (another type of white blood cell)
frequently lack the typical orange granules seen in other breeds. The eosinophils instead
have empty granules which may be confused for “toxic neutrophils” (a type of white
blood cell seen in overwhelming infections).
2
5. Greyhounds are exposed to many tick borne diseases (TBD) while they are racing. If
your dog is experiencing any neck or back pain of unknown cause or a low platelet count
(lower than 100,000) you should request that your dog be tested for TBDs. Other
potential clinical signs associated with tick borne diseases include: high fever, depression
or lethargy, anorexia, anemia, diarrhea or constipation, weight loss, vomiting, nose
bleeds, skin hemorrhage or any other unusual bleeding, swollen legs or lymph nodes,
nervous system disorders, such as stiff gait, head tilt, seizures or twitching, and pale gums
and/or inner eye membranes. It can take as long as five to seven years for clinical signs
to develop from Ehrlichiosis after a tick bite, so even if you do not have TBDs in your
area, they are still worth testing for. Treatment for Greyhounds who have positive tick
borne disease titers without supportive clinical signs is controversial. I do not
recommend testing healthy dogs with normal bloodwork for tick borne diseases as titers
only measure EXPOSURE to the infectious organism and are not always diagnostic for
disease.
6. Greyhounds are overly represented in cases of osteosarcoma (a form of cancer that
attacks the bone) (ACVIM 2005). It is most commonly found toward the shoulder in a
front leg or toward the knee in a back leg but can occur in other places (such as the
ankle/distal radius). If your Greyhound shows signs of significant lameness, an x-ray
should always be taken to rule this out as a possible cause. A diagnosis of a “sprain” or
“strain” should not be made without an x-ray.
7. Greyhounds commonly suffer from dental disease. You will need to clean their teeth
at home and either use gels or medicated chews to help keep the teeth as clean as
possible. Your Greyhound will also likely need periodic dental cleanings requiring
anesthesia. Some facilities may perform “standing dentals” or “anesthetic free teeth
cleanings”. Although this treatment sounds appealing, it does not allow for thorough
cleaning of the tartar under the gums which is the most critical area. This treatment
provides little more than the equivalent of a human teeth whitening procedure.
http://www.avdc.org/position-statements.html#cadswa
8. Greyhounds can have a lesion on their pads called “corns” which very often cause
lameness. My treatment of choice for corns is a technique known as “hulling”. The
technique is described in the website below and has been published in a peer reviewed
veterinary journal. These can be surgically removed but surgery is controversial as these
lesions can reoccur after surgery and the recovery is painful and can be prolonged. Other
treatment options include use of anti-viral medications and application of a small circle of
duct tape over the corn which will need to be changed every 2-3 days. Be sure to have
your veterinarian examine the pads of your Greyhound if they become lame.
http://www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/corn_hulling.htm
9. Greyhounds can have a form of skin acne on their chests (most commonly where the
chest rubs on the floor). This form of skin acne has the appearance of little black heads.
This is best treated with a hydrogen peroxide containing product (e.g. Pyoben gel,
Sulfoxydex shampoo) and is largely only a cosmetic problem.
10. Some racing greyhounds have had old racing injuries that can flare up from time to
time. One of the most common injuries is a fractured central tarsal bone. This will
present as a swelling just below the right ankle (hock). This condition is normally
chronic and by the time they reach a pet home there is little that can be done to correct
3
the problem. These dogs may benefit from Glucosamine/Chondroitin supplementation
but may need stronger medications in some circumstances to keep them comfortable.
11. Some Greyhounds can do an activity known as “trancing.” This is often seen as a
dog that will appear to be in a trance. They may stand under an object that is able to
touch or brush along their backs. This is not indicative of a seizure disorder and can be
normal in the breed.
12. Greyhounds are predisposed to an ocular condition known as “pannus.” This
presents as a pigmented lesion that starts on the outside part of the eye and spreads across
the cornea. This is an immune mediated disease and eye drops (topical cyclosporine
and/or corticosteroids) are needed to treat the condition. Some animals need to wear a
dog form of goggles when they go outside as UV light can aggravate the condition.
www.doggles.com
13. Greyhounds commonly have a condition termed Greyhound bald thigh syndrome.
You will note this on your Greyhound by the lack of hair on the backs of both hind legs
(some Greyhound reunions will have a “best buns” competition to highlight some of the
bald thighs). Some Greyhounds are more severely affected than others. This is largely
only a cosmetic condition and sometimes resolves once the dog retires and a good diet is
started. This condition is very rarely caused by a low thyroid level (hypothyroidism).
14. Female greyhounds commonly are affected by a condition known as clitoral
hypertrophy. This is an enlargement of the clitoris that is a result of testosterone
supplementation. Most female greyhounds receive testosterone supplementation on the
track to block their heat cycle. This condition should not affect their neutering and
should resolve over time once the testosterone supplementation is stopped. Some
greyhounds with this condition may be misdiagnosed as being “hermaphrodites.”
15. Many Greyhounds can have mild heart enlargement and a mild heart murmur that
can be normal. If your veterinarian hears a heart murmur, it is always a good idea to
take a chest x-ray. If there is some left atrial enlargement (a chamber of the heart) then
an ultrasound of the heart (echocardiogram) would be necessary and should ideally be
conducted by a cardiologist. If only mild generalized heart enlargement is noted, then it
is likely normal for the breed and additional testing may not be necessary. The heart
murmur can be described as systolic (not holosystolic), loudest over the left base, and
likely a grade I or grade II.
16. Most Greyhounds will commonly have, for lack of a better word, a “dent” at the
transition from their thoracic to lumbar vertebrae (back bones). You will notice this
dent along the back midline just beyond the shoulders and is a completely normal finding
in the breed. Explanations for this such as “it’s a genetic anomaly” and “it looks like he
was hit with some kind of metal bar” have been given in some instances.
17. Many Greyhounds may have scars from their racing days. These are very rarely
evidence of abuse at the track. As you will soon learn, Greyhounds have paper thin skin
and will cut themselves very easily. Some injuries that would be minor scratches in other
breeds are significant tears in Greyhounds and require sutures and can leave scars. It is
truly the exception to the rule if the scars seen on your Greyhound are actually the result
of abuse while on the track.
4
18. Greyhounds are a breed which have been noted to develop malignant hyperthermia
(MH). This condition is a type of reaction to anesthesia in which the Greyhound will
spike a very high temperature (>106) in response to exposure to the anesthesia. This
condition is very rare and as your Greyhound most likely arrived to you already spayed
or neutered, this is unlikely to be a concern. MH is a genetic condition which should
result in the same reaction to inhalant anesthesia every time. Therefore if a dog has had a
previous anesthesia without incident, MH should not be a factor. Some Greyhounds can
spike very high temperatures in recovery from muscle fasciculations but this is not MH.
MH is most commonly a reaction to gas anesthesia and is over-diagnosed in the breed (if
your dog recovers from a high temperature without treatment with a drug called
Dantrolene, it was most likely not MH).
http://www.animalmedicalcentreofmedina.com/library/Anesthetic%20Malignant%20Hyp
erthermia.pdf
19. Greyhounds are very sensitive and sometimes will not eat in the hospital. Once a
Greyhound retires and leaves the racetrack… they can quickly become very attached to
their new family and may not eat well in a hospital setting. Failure to eat while in the
hospital alone is not a reason to keep a Greyhound in the hospital. If your
Greyhound is not eating well, ask your veterinarian if you could take your Greyhound
home for the night and return for a recheck the next day.
20. Greyhounds can be affected by a condition known as Lumbosacral Stenosis (Cauda
Equina) which may be misdiagnosed as “hip dysplasia”. These dogs normally present
as weak, wobbly, or painful in the rear end. It is caused by a narrowing of the end of the
spinal cord which results in compression of the nerve roots. This can be difficult to
diagnose as it may not be apparent on x-ray. This condition will be unlikely to respond
to Rimadyl/Etogesic/Deramaxx or oral steroids. Remember that hip dysplasia is very
rare in Greyhounds.
There is some controversy regarding the significance/relevance/frequency of this disease
in Greyhounds amongst specialists.
http://greythealth.com/lumbosacral.htm
21. Many Greyhounds are very temperature sensitive. You will find that your Greyhound
will very likely not want to spend very much time outside when it is very cold and will
quickly heat up in the hot summer weather as well. You will need to closely monitor
your Greyhound in any extreme of temperature.
22. Idiopathic cutaneous and renal glomerular disease (“Alabama rot”) is a rare disease
that can be seen in Greyhounds. Should your Greyhound develop ulcerative lesions on
their legs (rear>front) this condition should be considered. It can be potentially fatal as
25% of Greyhounds will develop kidney failure with this condition. There is no specific
treatment for this disease. The ulcers should be flushed daily with an anti-bacterial agent
and antibiotics should be started if infection is present. Recovery should occur in two to
three weeks in Greyhounds with no kidney damage. This condition is very rare.
23. The most common cause of multiple toe nail loss from multiple feet in Greyhounds
is symmetrical lupoid onchodystrophy (SLO). Some older Greyhound references may
also refer to this condition as Pemphigus, however, SLO is the actual diagnosis. This
condition may be misdiagnosed as a “bacterial or fungal infection”. Greyhounds can
have infections but those not responding well to appropriate treatments should be
considered strong suspects for Pemphigus. Definitive diagnosis requires a biopsy
5
(amputation of a toe) which is rarely recommended due to the classic presentation of the
disease and the aggressiveness of the biopsy. Treatment will consist of appropriate antimicrobials, high doses of fatty acids, tetracycline and niacinamide (be sure that you are
given Niacinamide and not Niacin). Steroids and anti-histamines may be necessary in
some cases.
24. Male Greyhounds can suffer from a condition known as Dysuria or “tying up.” This
condition is more common in active racers but can occasionally carry over into pethood.
The clinical signs seen with this condition are normally associated with some stressful
event (hospitalization, anesthesia, a long haul, over-exercise) and consist of urethral
spasms which prevent the dog from urinating normally. Greyhounds suffering from
dysuria will strain to urinate with only drops coming out. Some of these dogs may also
continue to leak urine slowly over an extended period. Some veterinarians not familiar
with the condition may mistakenly recommend urethral scoping or a bladder biopsy.
Treatment consists of catheterization three times daily as needed and drug therapy
(typically some form of a muscle relaxer). The condition often takes 2-5 days to resolve.
25. Greyhounds can suffer from muscle cramps. This condition is more common in
colder weather. Their leg muscles stiffen which causes them to awkwardly hike up their
legs frequently vocalizing. This condition should be treated by warming the dog up and
applying warm (not hot) compress. If you look up these dogs racing records you may
find several “OOPS” where they did not finish the race due to cramping. If this is a
chronic problem, potassium supplementation may be beneficial.
26. Some Greyhounds suffer from excessive bleeding following surgical procedures.
The Ohio State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital is doing a lot of research to
discover why this is. Most standard tests done to evaluate clotting function in veterinary
medicine have been normal in these dogs (therefore prescreening your dog will not be
helpful). Although the cause is so far unknown (as of 5/08) these dogs do seem to
respond to Aminocaproic acid (ACA) given orally three times daily for 5 days (it can be
given intravenously if used pre-operatively). Transfusions of fresh frozen plasma or
whole blood have also been effective but are no longer the treatment of choice if
significant anemia is not present.
http://www.vet.ohio-state.edu/2097.htm
6
Some veterinarians and some Greyhound rescue groups make specific recommendations
in regards to a “Greyhound anesthetic protocol” because they believe a specific drug is safer than
another. In my opinion, any drug is only safe if the person using it is comfortable with it. A
number of anesthetics are suitable to be used in Greyhounds and depending on which your
veterinarian is most familiar with will dictate which would be the safest. No specific protocol
will be cited in this packet; however, some general guidelines will be listed to help reduce the risk
associated with anesthesia.
1. Never use thiobarbiturate anesthetics in Greyhounds. Never never never! Oh yeah and did I
say never? Some specialists believe that a one time only dose of a thiobarbituate in a Greyhound
is acceptable; however, there are many other safer options!
2. Premedications: these medications provide sedation, analgesia (pain relieving properties) and
allow a lower dose of an anesthetic to be used. The most commonly used premedications include
sedatives (Acepromazine, Medetomidine), opioids (Torbugesic, Butorphonal, Buprenorphine,
Morphine, etc.) and anti-cholinergics (atropine and glycopyrollate). The anti-cholinergics
provide cardiovascular support. These medications may be used in various combinations.
Caution should be used when dosing Greyhounds with premedications as they can be more
sensitive to their effects (especially Acepromazine).
3. Induction agents: Telazol, Propofol and Ketamine/Valium are all perfectly appropriate
anesthetics for Greyhounds. I would recommend using whichever your veterinarian is most
familiar with… just remember no thiobarbiturates (Thiopenthol).
4. Gas anesthesia: Isoflurane and Sevoflurane are both perfectly acceptable and there is no
significant clinical difference between the two in their use in general practice.
5. Intravenous catheters: it is always a good idea to have an intravenous catheter placed for
surgery. This gives the surgeon instant venous access in case of an emergency and allows your
Greyhound to receive fluids during surgery which help in maintaining normal blood flow and
blood pressure.
6. Presurgical bloodwork: it is always a good idea to have presurgical bloodwork done. The
bloodwork allows for a quick check of liver and kidney functions among other things which may
influence which anesthetics are used or if surgery should even be performed. The bloodwork
should ideally be drawn within four weeks of the anesthetic event.
7. Temperatures: ask to have your Greyhound’s temperature monitored periodically during and
after surgery. In rare instances, Greyhounds have been known to have a reaction to an anesthetic
or muscle fasciculations which allowed their body temperatures to climb in excess of 106
degrees. Monitoring of the patient allows for quick recognition and treatment of this problem.
7
Thyroid Function Testing in Greyhounds
Sm Anim Clin Endocrinol 12[1]:4 Jan-Apr'02 Review Article 0 Refs
C.B. Chastain, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM (Editor) & Dave Panciera, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM (Assoc. Editor) Sm
An Clin Endo
Gaughan KR, Bruyette DS.; Am J Vet Res 2001; 62:1130-1133
BACKGROUND: Thyroid function tests are frequently evaluated in greyhounds because of alopecia,
infertility, and poor race performance. In most cases, hypothyroidism is not present, despite the finding of
decreased serum total thyroxine (T4) concentrations. Sight hounds, including greyhounds and Scottish
deerhounds are known to have serum T4 concentrations lower than other breeds of dogs. This can result
in an erroneous diagnosis of hypothyroidism.
SUMMARY: Basal serum T4, free T4 (fT4), and the serum T4 and fT4 response to thyroid-stimulating
hormone (TSH) administration were evaluated in a group of healthy pet dogs and in two groups of healthy
greyhounds. All pet dogs and 56 greyhounds had serum T4 and fT4 response to thyrotropin-releasing
hormone (TRH) administration evaluated. Serum concentration of endogenous canine TSH (cTSH) was
measured in 18 pet dogs and 87 greyhounds. The pet dog group consisted of 19 dogs of various breeds
(no greyhounds), with a mean age of 5.2 years. One group of greyhounds consisted of 37 female dogs
with a mean age of 1.4 years that were actively racing and currently receiving testosterone for
suppression of estrus. The second group of greyhounds consisted of 61 dogs with a mean age of 4.9 years
that were not receiving testosterone. Greyhounds receiving testosterone were significantly younger than
those not receiving testosterone and pet dogs. Of the greyhounds not receiving testosterone, none of the
females (n = 35) were racing, while 10 of the 26 males were actively racing. No dog had received thyroid
supplementation, glucocorticoids, or anabolic steroids with the exception of testosterone within 3 months
of study. The mean basal serum T4 concentration was significantly lower in the greyhound groups than in
the pet dog group. The mean basal serum fT4 concentration was significantly lower in the greyhound
groups than in the pet dog group. The mean serum T4 response to TSH was significantly greater in pet
dogs than in greyhounds either receiving testosterone or not. Greyhounds receiving testosterone had
significantly higher serum T4 concentrations post-TSH than greyhounds not receiving testosterone. While
there was no difference between the mean serum fT4 concentration after TSH administration in pet dogs
and greyhounds receiving testosterone, the fT4 concentration in greyhounds not treated with testosterone
was significantly less than the other groups. The mean serum T4 concentration in response to TRH
administration was significantly lower in both groups of greyhounds than in pet dogs. The mean serum fT4
concentration after TRH administration was significantly lower in greyhounds not receiving testosterone
than in greyhounds treated with testosterone or pet dogs. Mean serum cTSH concentrations were not
significantly different between any of the three groups. The reference ranges for all greyhounds were
established as basal concentrations of T4, fT4, and cTSH were 2.1 to 37 nmol/L, 1.3 to 32.2 pmol/L, and
0.03 to 1.3 ng/ml, respectively. The authors concluded that greyhounds have a lower reference range for
serum T4 and fT4 concentrations than that of other breeds.
CLINICAL IMPACT: This study shows that serum T4 and fT4 concentrations in greyhounds are
considerably lower than in non-greyhound dogs and clearly demonstrates the difficulty in diagnosing
hypothyroidism in this breed. The lower limit of the reference range for T4 and fT4 concentrations in
greyhounds is near the lower sensitivity of the assays. Therefore, it may be impossible to establish a
diagnosis of hypothyroidism based solely on these hormones. Because the serum TSH concentration was
similar to that of other breeds, an elevated cTSH combined with T4 and fT4 concentrations at the low end
of the reference range combined with appropriate clinical signs is necessary to diagnose hypothyroidism in
greyhounds. Dynamic testing using TSH or TRH stimulation testing may also be useful, but less practical.
Testing when appropriate clinical signs are present is of particular importance in greyhounds. Caudal thigh
alopecia, common in greyhounds, is not caused by hypothyroidism, and infertility is likely to be only
infrequently caused by hypothyroidism in female dogs. Exogenous testosterone used to suppress the
estrous cycle does not appear to alter basal serum concentrations of T4, fT4, or c-TSH, but responses to
TSH or TRH stimulation may be increased by testosterone administration.
8
Thyroid function testing in Greyhounds.
Am J Vet Res 62[7]:1130-3 2001 Jul
Gaughan KR, Bruyette DS
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate thyroid function in healthy Greyhounds, compared with healthy non-Greyhound pet dogs, and
to establish appropriate reference range values for Greyhounds.
ANIMALS: 98 clinically normal Greyhounds and 19 clinically normal non-Greyhounds.
PROCEDURES: Greyhounds were in 2 groups as follows: those receiving testosterone for estrus suppression (T-group
Greyhounds) and those not receiving estrus suppressive medication (NT-group Greyhounds). Serum thyroxine (T4) and
free thyroxine (fT4) concentrations were determined before and after administration of thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH)
and thyroid-releasing hormone (TRH). Basal serum canine thyroid stimulating hormone (cTSH) concentrations were
determined on available stored sera.
RESULTS: Basal serum T4 and fT4 concentrations were significantly lower in Greyhounds than in non-Greyhounds.
Serum T4 concentrations after TSH and TRH administration were significantly lower in Greyhounds than in nonGreyhounds. Serum fT4 concentrations after TSH and TRH administration were significantly lower in NT-group than Tgroup Greyhounds and non-Greyhounds. Mean cTSH concentrations were not different between Greyhounds and nonGreyhounds.
CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE: Previously established canine reference range values for basal serum
T4 and fT4 may not be appropriate for use in Greyhounds. Greyhound-specific reference range values for basal serum T4
and fT4 concentrations should be applied when evaluating thyroid function in Greyhounds. Basal cTSH concentrations in
Greyhounds are similar to non-Greyhound pet dogs.
Thyroid hormone concentrations in young, healthy, pretraining
greyhounds
Vet Rec. 2007 Nov; 161 (18): 616-619.
RE Shiel, SF Brennan, AJ Omodo-Eluk, CT Mooney
School of Agriculture, Food Science and Veterinary Medicine, University College Dublin, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ireland
Total thyroxine (T(4)) concentrations were below the non-breed-specific reference range in 42 of 46 healthy young
greyhounds (91.3 per cent) and 16 (34.8 per cent) were at or below the limit of detection of the assay. Free T(4)
concentrations were below the standard reference interval in 20.5 per cent of the animals and 13 per cent were at or
below the limit of detection of the assay. In contrast, all the dogs' total tri-iodothyronine concentrations were within or
above the non-breed-specific reference range and 67 per cent were within the upper half. All the dogs' thyroid stimulating
hormone concentrations were within the non-breed-specific reference range. The results show that young greyhounds
have markedly lower total and free T(4) concentrations than other breeds, and neither analyte can reliably be used to
investigate the hypothyroidism in this breed as values were found below the limit of detection of each respective assay.
9
Platelet concentration and hemoglobin function in Greyhounds
J Am Vet Med Assoc 205[6]:838-841 Sep 15'94 Clinical Study 16 Refs
*Patrick S. Sullivan, DVM, PhD; Heather L. Evans, DVM; T. P. McDonald, PhD
*Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Division of HIV/AIDS, 1600 Clifton Rd. Mailstop E-47. Atlanta.
GA 30333.
Hematologic characteristics of 36 Greyhounds were studied and compared with characteristics of 22 nonGreyhound controls. Fourteen of the Greyhounds were tested and found to be seronegative for Ehrlichia
canis and Babesia canis. Compared with the non-Greyhounds, Greyhounds had higher mean hemoglobin
concentration, PCV, mean corpuscular volume, and mean cellular hemoglobin, and lower mean RBC count,
hemoglobin P50 value, Hill coefficient, platelet count, and total plasma protein concentration. The lower
mean hemoglobin P50 value in Greyhounds suggested that the higher mean hemoglobin concentration
and PCV were not solely a result of selective breeding for superior racing abilities, but that Greyhound
hemoglobin may have a greater affinity for oxygen than does the hemoglobin of non-Greyhounds.
Hematologic and Serum Biochemical Reference Values in Retired
Greyhounds
Compend Contin Educ Pract Vet 22[3]:243-248 Mar'00 Review Article 9 Refs
Janet E. Steiss, DVM, PhD; William G. Brewer, Jr., DVM; Elizabeth Welles, DVM, PhD; James C. Wright,
DVM, PhD
College of Veterinary Medicine, Auburn University, AL
Research has indicated that results of blood tests for retired greyhounds may fall outside the established
normal ranges for the general canine population and that specific parameters for retired greyhounds may
need to be established. Based on the study discussed in this article, the authors determined that
hemoglobin, creatinine, sodium, total carbon dioxide, and anion gap tend to be elevated whereas globulin
tends to be decreased in healthy retired greyhounds. Practitioners need to be aware of these breedspecific differences in order to make accurate diagnoses in greyhounds.
Bald Thigh Syndrome of Greyhound Dogs: Gross and Microscopic
Findings
Vet Dermatol 11[1]:49-51 Mar'00 Short Communication 6 Refs
* Polly R. Schoning & Laine A. Cowan
* Dept. of DM/P, Mosier Hall, College of Veterinary Medicine, Kansas State University, Manhattan KS
66506, USA
Bald thigh syndrome (BTS) is a disease limited to Greyhound dogs. It is characterized clinically and
grossly by bilateral hair loss on the lateral and caudal thighs. The cause of BTS is unknown but may be
associated with hypothyroidism or hyperadrenocorticism. Samples of skin, thyroid glands, and adrenal
glands from 43 Greyhound dogs with BTS were examined microscopically. Microscopic changes were
characterized by dilatation of follicular infundibula, presence of catagen follicles and epidermal
hyperplasia. Changes in the skin from these Greyhound dogs suggest an endocrinopathy as the cause;
however, we were unable to confirm which one.
Skin Diseases in Greyhounds
Vet Med 95[2]:115-124 Feb'00 Review Article 15 Refs
Glen Burkett, BVSc, Dipl. ACVD
Florida Veterinary Specialists, 3000 Busch Lake Blvd., Tampa, FL 33614
10
A Comparison Of Echocardiographic Indices Of The Nonracing, Healthy
Greyhound To Reference Values From Other Breeds
Vet Radiol 36[5]:387-392 Sep/Oct'95 Review Article 25 Refs
*Patti S. Snyder, DVM, MS, , DVM, MS, Clarke E. Atkins, DVM
*PO Box 100126 HSC, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32610
Echocardiographic evaluation of healthy, nonexercising, awake greyhounds revealed substantial
differences in left ventricular cavity dimensions, wall thickness, systolic time intervals and fractional
shortening as compared to previously reported normal echocardiographic values obtained from mongrels
and various other dog breeds. Despite corrections for body surface area and body weight, these
differences remained, suggesting that breed and body conformation should be considered when
interpreting echocardiographic studies in the dog.
Metabolic and physiologic effects of athletic competition in the Greyhound
Companion Anim Pract 2[8]:7-11 Aug'88 20 Refs
R. A. Taylor, DVM, MS, Dipl ACVS Alameda East Veterinary Hospital, 9870 East Alameda Ave, Denver, CO
80231
Review article examining the peculiarities of the greyhound, a sprint racer.
Racing greyhounds in the US run counterclockwise, on an oval track 5/16 to 3/8 mile long, and the typical
race lasts around 45 seconds. Track surfaces, maintenance, length and banking of turns are extremely
variable, as are the conditions of temperature and humidity under which races are run.
GREYHOUNDS DIFFER from other dogs in many respects. Compared to other dogs, their hearts are larger,
stronger, and slower [resting heart rate 30 - 50 bpm], and they have a higher mean arterial pressure and
lower peripheral resistance. The lower resting heart rate is at least partially a training effect; retired
greyhounds have resting heart-rates closer to the average. Because they redistribute blood poorly, they
compensate poorly for heat stress. They also have a greater muscle mass than the average dog.
LABORATORY FINDINGS. Compared with other breeds, greyhounds have higher PCVs and larger
erythrocytes, larger total red cell counts, and higher hemoglobin values. These values are presented in a
table.
POST-EXERCISE CHANGES measured after racing demonstrate transient increases in WBC counts, RBC
counts, PCV, and hemoglobin levels. Proteinuria has been documented; myoglobinuria is reported, but has
not been extensively studied. A dramatic increase in lactic acid levels is seen, from 7.97 +/- 0.04 mg/dl to
221.7 +/- 7.44mg/dl, followed by a rapid return to normal levels within 1 hour. Greyhounds are usually
hyperthermic, as well as tachypneic after a race.
ANAEROBIC METABOLISM in greyhounds is the primary source of energy during racing. Studies have
shown that energy requirements in sprinters may increase 20 times over resting levels, and only 5% of
the energy used in a greyhound race comes from aerobic metabolism. Part of the greyhound's efficiency in
using anaerobic metabolism is the result of a higher than average proportion of Type II muscle fibers,
which use anaerobic metabolism to generate energy.
A discussion of aerobic and anaerobic glycolysis and oxygen debt is illustrated by diagrams.
11
Hematologic Values in Mongrel and Greyhound Dogs Being Screened for
Research Use
J Am Vet Med Assoc 1971 Dec 1; 159(11): 1603-6
Porter, JA Jr and Canaday, WR Jr.
Hematologic and blood chemistry data were collected from Greyhounds and from mongrel dogs. Data were distributed
according to sex and, in the case of the mongrels, according to weight. The Greyhounds’ mean values for red blood cell
(RBC) counts, for packed cell volume (PCV), and hemoglobin (Hb) determinations were greater than those of the
mongrels, in most cases significantly so (P<0.01). The mongrel dogs, on the other hand, had higher mean values than
Greyhounds in reference to the white blood cell (WBC) counts and relative percentage of eosinophils. The serum sodium,
chlorides, bilirubin, and glutamic oxaloacetic transaminase values were greater, and in most cases significantly so, for the
Greyhounds in comparison to the mongrels. The mongrel dogs had a higher total serum protein and a lower serum
albumin content than did the Greyhounds. The female Greyhounds had a significantly higher blood urea nitrogen value
than did the mongrels. The mean alkaline phosphatase activity values were significantly higher for male mongrels
weighing less than 15kg than for male Greyhounds.
Fractures and Dislocations of the Racing Greyhound_Part I
Compend Contin Educ Pract Vet 17[6]:779-786 Jun'95 Review Article 25 Refs
* Mark A. Anderson, DVM, MS, and Gheorghe M. Constantinescu, DVM, PhD, Drhc, Larry G. Dee, DVM,
and Jon F. Dee, DVM, MS
* Dept. of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA
-Greyhounds sustain many fractures and dislocations that are uncommon in other breeds of dogs. The
counter-clockwise direction of racing, the repetitive nature of racing, and track conditions predispose
greyhounds to many atypical injuries. Most injuries that occur as a result of racing involve, or are distal
to, the carpus and tarsus. The repetitive nature of racing predisposes greyhounds to stress fractures that
are not seen routinely in nonworking dogs. A better understanding of injuries sustained by racing
greyhounds gives the practitioner an appreciation of the unique nature of these injuries and how they
affect the dogs that participate in this increasingly popular sport.
Fractures and Dislocations of the Racing Greyhound_Part II
Compend Contin Educ Pract Vet 17[7]:899-909 Jul'95 Review Article 24 Refs
* Mark A. Anderson, DVM, MS, and Gheorghe M. Constantinescu, DVM, PhD, Drhc, Larry G. Dee, DVM,
and Jon F. Dee, DVM, MS
* Dept. of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA
Most pelvic limb injuries sustained by racing greyhounds are a result of the counterclockwise direction of
racing. The central tarsal bone is one of the most frequently fractured bones in the pelvic limb because of
the high compressive forces that are placed on the medial surface of the tarsus during racing. Central
tarsal bone fractures lead to a loss of integrity of the medial buttress of the tarsus, which predisposes the
other tarsal bones to injury. Similar to injuries of the thoracic limb, most pelvic limb injuries are distal to
and include the tarsus. Because most injuries sustained by greyhounds are uncommon in other breeds,
the orthopedic surgeon must have a good understanding of the anatomy of greyhounds and techniques
used to repair pelvic limb injuries. Tarsal bone injuries as well as metatarsal and phalangeal injuries,
which are commonly seen in the pelvic limb, are described. In addition, several unique as well as less
common orthopedic injuries sustained by racing greyhounds and methods for repair of the various
fractures are reviewed.
12
Induction of anesthesia with diazepam-ketamine and midazolam-ketamine
in greyhounds.
Vet Surg 20[2]:143-7 1991 Mar-Apr
Hellyer PW ; Freeman LC ; Hubbell JA
Anesthesia was induced in 14 greyhounds with a mixture of diazepam or midazolam (0.28 mg/kg) and
ketamine (5.5 mg/kg), and maintained with halothane. There were no significant differences in weight,
age, or duration of anesthesia between the treatment groups. Time to intubation with diazepam-ketamine
(4.07 +/- 1.43 min) was significantly longer than with midazolam-ketamine (2.73 +/- 0.84 min). Heart
rate, respiratory rate, PaCO2, and arterial pH did not vary significantly during anesthesia in either
treatment group. Arterial blood pressures, PaO2, halothane vaporizer setting, and body temperature
changed significantly from baseline values in both treatment groups during anesthesia. Times to sternal
recumbency and times to standing were not significantly different. These data suggest that both
diazepam-ketamine and midazolam-ketamine are useful anesthetic combinations in greyhounds. In
combination with ketamine, midazolam offers little advantage over diazepam.
Anesthesia of the Sighthound
From the Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, Sackler School of
Graduate Biomedical Sciences, Tufts University, Boston, MA, and the Department of
Clinical Sciences, Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine, North Grafton, MA.
Michael H. Court
Address reprint requests to Michael H. Court, BVSc, DACVA, Department of Pharmacology and Experimental
Therapeutics, M & V 217, 136 Harrison Avenue, Boston, MA 02111.
The sighthounds are an ancient group of dog breeds that have been selectively bred for high-speed pursuit of pretty by
sight. Probably as a consequence of this selection process, these dogs have a number of idiosyncrasies that can
potentially adversely affect their anesthetic management. These include (1) nervous demeanor which can lead to stressinduced clinical complications, such as hyperthermia; (2) lean body conformation with high surface-area-to-volume ratio,
which predisposes these dogs to hypothermia during anesthesia; (3) hematological differences such as a higher packed
cell volume and lower serum protein compared with other dog breeds which may complicate interpretation of
preanesthetic blood work; (4) Impaired biotransformation of drugs by the liver resulting in prolonged recovery from certain
intravenous anesthetics, especially thiopental; and increased risks of drug interactions. Safe anesthetic management of
sighthounds should include sedative premedications and appropriate use of analgesic drugs to minimize perioperative
stress. Thiopental, or any other thiobarbiturate, should not be used in these dogs. Propofol, ketamine/diazepam
combination, and methohexital are recommended alternative intravenous anesthetics. Avoid coadministration of agents
that inhibit drug biotransformation, such as chloramphenicol. Inhalation anesthesia using isoflurane is the preferred
anesthetic maintenance technique. Core body temperature should be monitored closely and techniques to minimize
hypothermia should be employed both during anesthesia and into the recovery period.
Serum creatinine concentrations in retired racing Greyhounds.
Vet Clin Pathol 2003; 32(1): 40-2
Feeman WE 3rd, Couto CG, Gray TL.
BACKGROUND: Greyhounds frequently have laboratory values that are outside reference intervals established for dogs.
Our recognition of increased serum creatinine concentrations in several Greyhounds posed a problem when evaluating a
Greyhound with suspected renal disease.
OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to compare serum creatinine concentrations between Greyhound and nonGreyhound dogs.
METHODS: Thirty retired racing Greyhounds and 30 age- and gender-matched control non-Greyhound dogs were
evaluated. Serum creatinine concentrations in both groups were measured using a standard biochemical method and
compared statistically using a Kruskal-Wallis test.
RESULTS: Creatinine concentration was significantly higher in the Greyhounds (P <.01) than in the control group.
CONCLUSION: Greyhounds have a higher serum creatinine concentration than do non-Greyhound dogs. This
idiosyncrasy should be taken into account when evaluating healthy Greyhounds and those with suspected renal disease.
13
Morphologic Characterization of Specific Granules in Greyhound
Eosinophils.
Vet Clin Pathol 2005; 34 (2): 140-143
Cline Iazbik MC, Couto CG.
BACKGROUND: "Vacuolated" eosinophils (ie, eosinophils with empty, nonstaining granules) have been described
previously in normal Greyhounds. However, to our knowledge, detailed studies of granules in vacuolated and normal
eosinophils in this breed have not been performed.
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this prospective study was to characterize some of the morphologic, ultrastructural, and
cytochemical staining features of specific (primary) granules in both normal and vacuolated eosinophils in Greyhound
blood.
METHODS: Morphologic features of eosinophils in Wright's- and Diff-Quik-stained peripheral blood smears from 49
Greyhounds were compared with 200 blood smears from non-Greyhound dogs. Transmission electron microscopy was
done on blood from 3 Greyhounds with vacuolated eosinophils and 3 with normal eosinophil granules. Blood smears from
4 of these dogs also were stained cytochemically with alkaline phosphatase (AP), chloracetate esterase (CAE), and alpha
naphthyl butyrate esterase (ANBE). The morphologic features and tinctorial properties of vacuolated and normal
eosinophils were compared.
RESULTS: Twenty-six Greyhounds (53%) had vacuolated eosinophils and 23 (47%) had normal granulated eosinophils
in smears stained with Wright's stain. Only 1% of eosinophils were vacuolated in non-Greyhound dogs. Twenty of the 23
(85%) Greyhounds with normal granulated eosinophils on Wright's-stained smears had vacuolated eosinophils in smears
stained with Diff-Quik. Ultrastructurally, no morphologic differences were observed between granules of vacuolated and
normal eosinophils. Both vacuolated and normal eosinophils in Greyhounds were positive for AP and negative for CAE
and ANBE, as expected for normal dogs.
CONCLUSION: Vacuolated eosinophils in Greyhounds likely reflect, at least in part, differential staining properties of the
specific granules with different hematologic stains. Ultrastuctural and cytochemical features of eosinophil granules were
similar in normal and vacuolated eosinophils from Greyhounds.
Idiosyncrasies in Greyhounds that can affect their medical care
Vet Med 100[8]:592-600 2005 August
Feeman, WE 3rd
These athletes have been bred for speed and an even temper. But some irregularities in greyhounds will affect how to
clinically assess and treat these dogs. Make sure you're prepared for the next greyhound that visits your practice.
Rooting Out the Cause of a Greyhound's Bad Breath
Vet Med 97[2]:86-91 Feb'02 Dental Corner 2 Refs
Jan Bellows, DVM, DAVDC, DABVP
Hometown Animal Hospital and Dental Clinic, 17100 Arvida Parkway, Weston, FL 33326
Chronic ulcerative paradental stomatitis appears as marked ulceration of the buccal mucosa adjacent to calculus- and
plaque-laden teeth. Bilateral lesions are common. Affected animals may have a hyperimmune response to plaque and
calculus. Affected patients should be evaluated medically; the evaluation should include a complete blood count, serum
chemistry profile, and urinalysis. Initial care involves teeth cleaning and polishing followed by an intraoral radiographic
examination and probing. Extract teeth affected by stage 4 periodontal disease. Also extract stage 3 affected teeth if the
owner cannot provide strict home care. Antibiotics are indicated to help control infection. Clindamycin has been shown to
interrupt the glycocalix, which provides a foundation for plaque to attach to the tooth surface. Pain medication is also
indicated. If initial therapy of teeth cleaning and home care is not effective, extraction of the chafing tooth is usually
curative, because the local irritants are removed.
I frequently find periodontal disease when examining adopted greyhounds. A raw meat diet, a lack of tooth brushing
during their early racing careers, stress (increased serum cortisol concentrations), and breed predisposition are implicated
for periodontal disease occurrence.
This dog was treated with multiple extractions and doxycycline gel because of the extent of oral disease. Doxycycline gel
is indicated for treating and controlling periodontal disease in dogs. In clinical trials, patients treated with Doxirobe
exhibited attachment level gains because of reattachment of functional epithelium, periodontal pocket depth reductions,
and improved gingival health, as long as the owner performed home care
14
Left Basilar Systolic Murmur in Retired Racing Greyhounds
J Vet Intern Med. 2006 Jan-Feb; 20 (1): 78-82.
F Fabrizio, R Baumwart, MC Iazbik, KM Meurs, CG Couto
Veterinary Teaching Hospital and Department of Veterinary Clinical Sciences, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ohio State
University, Columbus, OH 43210, USA.
Nineteen of 28 (67%) Greyhounds enrolled in the Blood Donor Program at The Veterinary Teaching Hospital, The Ohio
State University (Columbus, OH), had a left basilar systolic murmur. Ten Greyhounds with murmurs and 9 without
murmurs were evaluated to gain knowledge about the pathogenesis of this murmur. Echocardiograms were performed
without sedation by means of a GE Vivid 7 Echocardiographic System with a continuous ECG; systolic arterial blood
pressure (SABP) was measured with an Ultrasonic Doppler Flow detector model 811-B. The mean peak aortic velocity in
the Greyhounds with murmurs (2.15 m/s; range, 1.8-2.2 m/s) was significantly higher than in the Greyhounds without
murmurs (1.89 m/s; range, 1.6-2.0 m/s) (P < .001); there were no significant differences between groups for aortic valve or
annulus diameter, fractional shortening, pulmonic velocity, SABP, hematocrit, serum protein concentration, or red blood
cell counts. In this study, Greyhounds with soft, left basilar systolic murmurs had mildly (but significantly) higher mean
peak aortic velocities than similar dogs without murmurs. In the dogs with murmurs (and higher velocities), we could not
identify structural abnormalities, such as valvular lesions or other congenital defects. There was no inverse correlation
between the systolic murmur and the higher hematocrit and red blood cell counts observed in this breed. This 1-2/6
basilar systolic murmur is common in Greyhounds, and it does not appear to be of any clinical consequence.
Comparison of glomerular filtration rate between greyhounds and
non-greyhound dogs
J Vet Intern Med. 2006 May-Jun; 20 (3): 544-546.
Wm Tod Drost1, C Guillermo Couto, Anthony J Fischetti, John S Mattoon, Cristina Iazbik
Veterinary Teaching Hospital and Department of Veterinary Clinical Sciences, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ohio State
University, Columbus, OH 43210, USA.
Greyhounds have significantly higher serum creatinine (SCr) concentration than do non-Greyhound dogs that may be attributable to
differences in glomerular filtration rate (GFR). By means of plasma clearance of technetium Tc 99m diethylenetriaminepentaacetic
acid, GFR was measured in 10 Greyhounds and 10 non-Greyhound dogs with normal findings of physical examination, CBC, serum
biochemical analysis, and urinalysis. Dogs were fed the same diet for a minimum of 6 weeks before GFR data collection. Greyhounds
had significantly higher mean +/- SD GFR (3.0 +/- 0.1 vs 2.5 +/- 0.2 ml/min/ kg; P = .01) and SCr concentration (1.8 +/- 0.1 vs 1.5 +/0.1 mg/dL; P = .03) than did non-Greyhound dogs, but the serum urea nitrogen (SUN) concentration was not significantly different
(18 +/- 1 vs 18 +/- 2 mg/dL; P = .8). Therefore, the higher SCr concentration in Greyhounds is not attributable to decreased GFR, and
may be associated with the high muscle mass in the breed. Healthy Greyhounds have higher GFR than do non-Greyhound dogs.
Vertebral heart size in retired racing greyhounds
Vet Radiol Ultrasound. 2007 Jul-Aug; 48 (4): 332-334.
Liliana M Marin, Jamie Brown, Chas McBrien, Ryan Baumwart, Valerie F Samii, C Guillermo Couto
The vertebral heart size (VHS) is used to objectively assess cardiac dimensions on thoracic radiographs. A high VHS
suggest the presence of cardiac pathology, such as dilated cardiomyopathy, degenerative atrioventricular valvular
disease, pericardial effusion, pericardioperitoneal diaphragmatic hernia, tricuspid dysplasia, ventricular septal defect, or
patent ductus arteriosus, among others. However, breed or body conformation can influence the VHS. Because
Greyhounds have a high prevalence of physiologic systolic murmurs associated with high aortic velocity, and large
cardiac dimensions when compared with dogs of similar size, they are frequently suspected of having heart disease. The
purpose of this study was to compare the VHS in normal Greyhounds with those in Rottweilers, and a group of dogs from
various other breeds using both analog and digital radiology. The VHS was significantly higher in Greyhounds (P<
0.0001), when compared with Rottweilers and to other dog breeds. The mean VHS on lateral radiographs for Greyhounds
was 10.5 +/- 0.1, for Rottweilers it was 9.8 +/- 0.1, and for mixed breed dogs it was 10.1 +/- 0.2. This study confirms that
the relative cardiomegaly reported in necropsy and echocardiographic studies in Greyhounds is easily detected using
plain radiography and the VHS.
15