Contents 2.1 2.2 Page 1 Factors Affecting Consumer Choices on Clothing and Textile Products 2.1.1 Individual and Family Considerations 2.1.2 Peer and Society 2.1.3 Culture 2.1.4 Environment 2.1.5 Science and Technology Innovation 1 25 31 34 41 Implications 2.2.1 Implications on Individual and Family 2.2.2 Implications on the Industry 2.2.3 Implications on Society 44 44 49 52 2.1 Factors Affecting Consumer Choices on Clothing People wear clothes for many different reasons. Some of these reasons are to satisfy physical needs, e.g. for protection. Others are for psychological needs and social reasons, e.g. to enhance self-confidence, to express personality and identification. As a general concept, clothes help people to express themselves. They can express their individuality and creativity through their clothes. This can contribute to the building up of self-esteem, self-respect and self-acceptance. 2.1.1 Individual and Family Considerations (A) Age Age is one of the considerations when people choose clothes and textile products for different people. People who belong to an age cohort tend to have similar needs and considerations. People of a similar age and who have undergone similar experiences are called Age Cohort. 1 HK Consumer Age Groups 2006 80 - 84 Gray Market 70 - 74 Age Group 60 - 64 Mature Adult 50 - 54 40 - 44 30 - 34 Adult 20 - 24 10 - 14 Children 0-4 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 Number of People(1000) Figure 2.1 Hong Kong Consumer Age Groups 2006 (Source: Statistic Department, the Government of HKSAR) (i) Children This group contains infants, toddlers, pre-schools and teens. They have different clothing needs. Comfort, practicality and safety are the factors their parents will consider when buying clothes for children. z Infants Infant growth is fast, their clothes will become too small for them in a short period of time. Shopping for slightly larger sizes will be more economical as their clothes can be worn for a longer period of time. However, too large the size can also be dangerous for infants because they can be tangled. - Comfort Tight garments or too many layers of garment will make babies feel uncomfortable. Garments with soft texture are suitable for babies with dedicate and sensitive skin. Harsh fabrics can cause skin rashes. Fuzzy fabrics can irritate the nose and throat. Fabrics with good moisture absorption 2 are more suitable since perspiration can be absorbed. Cotton flannelette, terry cloth and jersey are ideal fabrics for infant clothes. Garments made from knitted fabrics are very popular because they are stretchable and provide warmth and ventilation. - Practicality Infant clothing should be designed for ease of changing. Front or shoulder opening, instead of pulling over the head, is an ideal design. Warmth is important to babies since new born babies lies still and sleep most of the time. - Safety In order to protect infants, USA has legislation to make sure that all infant sleepwear should be flame resistant. Another safety requirement is the type of fasteners. Buttons and trims that can be pulled off are dangerous for babies they can be swallowed or poked into the nose or ears if they become loose. Therefore, lightweight zippers or gripper snaps are more suitable. Layette is the assembled set of clothing and textile goods for infant babies. Examples of the layette for newborn infants include: Undershirts Diapers (cloth, disposable) Waterproof pants Kimonos or gowns Coveralls or stretch suits Shawls, bunting or topper set Bonnets or caps Blanket sleeper Bibs Diaper pins Crib sheets Towels Socks Clothing of infants should be selected by height and weight rather than by age, since the size of infants at the same age can be very different. z Toddlers and preschoolers Toddlers are children who are actively moving or walking. They are between the ages of one to two years old. They have short bodies, short legs and a protruding abdomen. Pre-schoolers are taller and are not as round as toddlers. They are starting to have a defined waistline. They are between the ages of three to five years old. 3 - Comfortable Toddlers and pre-schools should be dressed in simple and functional clothes. The design of these clothes should allow them to have freedom of movement. Extra easing should be provided at seat, armholes, pant legs and crotch. Fabric used should have good elasticity to hold the garment in place. Soft and unstructured styles such as one-piece playsuits are ideal garment for them. Fasteners such as wide and crisscross shoulder straps could be used at the back. Preschoolers begin to learn how to manage themselves. They develop a greater sense of independency and responsibility as they learn how to dress and undress by themselves. Therefore, clothes should be designed for them to dress and undress by themselves easily. For example, bigger armholes, great differences between front and back, closings at the front that are easy to fasten. - Practicability Children always play. They are hard wearers. Reinforcements should be applied at the points of strains. Materials should be durable, sturdy, soil, stain resistant, elastic and anti-wrinkle. - Safety Flame-retardant fabrics are required for sleepwear. When selecting other clothes, styles that are long and with flowing skirts, tie belts, drawstrings or full sleeves should be avoided so as to prevent children from tripping or catching on corners. Trims should be firmly attached and placed where they do not hamper the wearers’ activities. Protection should be provided for severe weather conditions, water repellent and warmth but not non-porous, tight and heavy are ideal properties. - Room for growth Toddlers and preschools are still in a rapid growth period. Their clothes will become too small for them in a short period of time. For the economic reason, garment for this particular group should be of simple design with flexibility. For example, large necklines, raglan or kimono sleeves, sleeveless armhole, elastic waistbands, stretch fabric and wrap styles are ideal features. Wide 4 hems at sleeves and pants should be provided for length adjustment. If clothes have shoulder straps, they should be adjustable. z Young children This group consists of children with an age range from six to twelve. Their clothing should meet their physical needs, such as comfortable, practicability, safety. Besides, starting from this stage, their psychological needs should also be considered. They become conscious of what their peers are wearing and they want to look alike. Approval by their peers gives them a sense of security and belonging. Giving children some choices in what they wear would reinforce their interest in appearance. Parents should provide guidance and sharing their experience with their children. Clothing care should be taught at this stage. (ii) Teenagers Many changes take place when a person leaves the role of being a child and enter into teenagers. The following are some characteristics of teenagers: - A lot of uncertainties about the self The need to belong The need to find one’s unique identity becomes important Active search of cues from their peers for correct and appropriate behaviour and looks Teenagers begin to have independent ideas of clothing. They tend to imitate the clothing of older generations and resist to be called juniors. They are active consumers of products related to beauty and fashion. Their preference is affected by peers, celebrity and advertisement on magazines. They form a market with good potential for clothing merchants. (iii) Adults Many of them are married or parents. They begin to have financial burden on housing and children’s education. Selection of clothing is largely influenced by the opinions of their spouse. The well-educated group spends more money on both career wear and casual wear. 5 (iv) Mature Adult They buy for themselves, for their families and for others. As this group ages, their body shapes and preferences change with the growth of age. Some clothing suppliers may sell “relax fit” collection to this group to fit their bulge figure. For most of the women, interest in fashion does not decline with age. Many older female consumers still have interest in fashion. They would go for appropriate or even distinctive looks that is right for them, with generally no great pressure from social or peer groups. (v) Elderly People in Hong Kong are aging. Elderly are not a homogenous group. Elderly are diverse in interests, opinion, actions and even income. However, one common characteristic is that they have problems in finding preferred clothes that fit. Elderly people usually have big changes on their body proportion. Their faces gradually become thin, their abdomens and hips get larger, their legs get thinner and their waistlines thicken. Older women have a larger and low bust and stooped shoulders. Older men often have a protruding stomach. These cause older people unable to wear standard sizes. Comfort in wearing and getting dressed and undressed are the main considerations for elderly when choosing clothes for themselves. They need large, accessible front openings with easy-to-close fasteners. Older people often feel cold more sensitively than the young. Heavy clothes are not comfortable to them. Light weight fabrics that provide warmth are more suitable. Fabric should be soft to skin since their skins are always thin, dry and inelastic. Heavy fabrics and rough textures are not suitable for elderly people. 6 The following shows the characteristics of each group and their impacts on clothing choice: Generation Common Characteristics Impact on clothing choice Children y y y y y Growing in size Dependent to independent Learn to socialise Influenced by parents and then peers y y Teenagers y y Techno-savvy Prone to abrupt shifts in taste y y y Adults Mature Adult y y y y y Self-reliant Cautious about marriage Media-savvy Techno-focus Entrepreneurial y y y y y y Self-assured Pursuit of achievement Hard working Family focus y y y y Elderly y y Traditional Chinese values Hard working y Decided by parents and then influenced by peers Unable to wear for a long time as they grow up very fast Main concerns - comfort, practicability and safety Influenced by peers and celebrities Challenging demand in clothing Brand conscious Pursuit of their own look Influenced by spouses easily Willing to spend a lot on clothing and then facing economic burden after marriage Demand products that gear towards their lifestyle Brand names are important Body shape begins to change Functionality is important Figure 2.2 Age Groups and Clothing Choice (B) Gender Traditionally, males and female have different roles. Role specialisation of males and females is still an important part of our today’s culture. When parents select toys for young children these days, they still tend to buy dolls for girls and toy cars for little 7 boys. This philosophy deeply influences people’s buying behaviour. There are different social expectations on men and women. Males are expected to be masculine and females are expected to be feminine. Many of them conform to these expectations, and will act, speak and select clothing according to these expectations. Gender differentiation with clothing and items of adornment can be seen in many aspects. When certain elements on garment are designed exclusively as male or female symbols, it is called gender coding of garments. Cultural customs or traditions establish the gender of a type of garment. For example, pants as masculine and skirts as feminine. Colour preference also reflects gender difference. For example, females tend to prefer bright tones and are subtle to shadings and patterns, males tend to prefer plain colours and patterns. (i) Androgynous Being androgynous means having the both male and female characteristics. During the last few decades, rock and roll stars such as Elvis Presley began to use eyeliners, mascara, cheek bluster and lip gloss. Today, unisex dressing and adornment are common in some young male. Some examples are long hair and earrings. (ii) Working Women The dramatic increase in the proportion of women working outside of the home have led to an upheaval in the female gender role, the way they regard themselves and the products they choose to buy. Working women are financial independent. They spend more on apparel than non-working women. As they have to take care of their family and career, time is an important asset to them. This trend has resulted in the growth of catalog and e-shopping in overseas markets. (C) Figure Body image refers to a consumer’s subjective evaluation of his / her physical appearance. Physical appearance can give a person self-concept and self-esteem. Low self-esteem and negative feelings may result when one’s body is discrepant from cultural standards or perceived standards. In realty, clothing can be used to improve the perceived shape. Certain styles of clothing are often chosen to disguise parts of one’s body due to a negative value on one’s body image. 8 People have different ideals on their body shape in different times. If consumers understand how their bodies vary from these ideals, it will be easier for them to select appropriate clothing. The following is the general body ideals for males and females today: Male Body Ideals y y y y y y y y Youthful, athletic build Tall and slender Broad and well-developed shoulder muscles Torso tapers to slender waist Flat abdomen Hip narrower than the width of shoulders Slender, well-muscled arms and legs Proportionate sizes of heads, hands and feet Female Body Ideals y y y y y y y Tall, slender Shoulder and hip width are equal Hip and bust circumstances are equal Waist 22.5cm to 27.5cm smaller than hips / bust Flat abdomen Calf 10cm to 15cm larger than ankle Thigh 15cm to 17.5cm larger than calf Figure 2.3 General body ideals (Source: Individuality in Clothing Selection & Personal Appearance, 6th Ed., Marshall et al.) (i) Figure Types (Somatotypes) Human body can be categorised into three basic somatotypes according to muscle and fat distribution. They are Endomorph, Mesomorph and Ectomorph. 9 Endomorph y y Mesomorph Round body and y fatty Short neck and limb y y Sturdy and muscled y frame Large shoulder and y chest Well-developed arm and leg muscles Ectomorph Tall and narrow body Long and thin limbs Figure 2.4 Figure types (Source: Individuality in Clothing Selection & Personal Appearance, 6th Ed., Marshall et al.) (ii) Figure Shapes When selecting clothing, it is important to know the height and distribution of fat on the body frame and weight. The ideal body weight is distributed evenly from the center core of the spine. The bust / chest mass should balance the buttocks mass. However, females tend to store body fat in their hips and thighs whereas males tend to store fat in the abdominal area. 10 Height and weight proportion yields different body silhouette. The common ones are: Wedge Shoulder width exceeds hip weight Triangle Balanced Hip width Hip and shoulder exceeds shoulder measurements width are equal; waist measurement is 22.5cm – 27.5cm smaller Figure 2.5 Rectangle Little or no waist indentation Different body silhouette (iii) Impacts of Figure on Clothing Selection Women generally pay more attention to their overall appearance change than men. For men, it is the abdomen change at middle age that affects the most their size choice of clothing. To pursuit betterment of appearance, women will seek different means such as diet and sport to keep fit. In choosing clothes, the following rules are generally followed: y Thin vertical lines or long diagonal lines add height and slenderise while broad horizontal lines widen the figure or cut it into shorter segments y The contrast of low- and high-value colours can emphasise or downplay parts of the body. Low value or light colours draw attention and can make areas on the body seem larger than they are while higher value or darker colours create the illusion of something being smaller 11 (D) Personal Image and Style Consumers can use clothing to show their personality image and style such as uniqueness, originality, risk taking, independence and assertiveness. (i) Body Image Body image refers to how the physical self is perceived. Different cultures and different periods have different concerns and standards. In Western countries, the female body image is regarded as good if it is attractive, thin and fit. Therefore, consumers will look for clothing that can help them in building this image. (ii) Self-image Self-image refers to the physical and psychological perception that one has of oneself. One can evaluate one’s self-image through feedback from others on his/her appearance and simply by looking at the reflection of one’s image on the mirror. Correct selection of clothing helps in building the self image. (iii) Personality One’s personality is made up of one’s thought, feelings and behaviour. They are influenced by in-born traits, experience and external factors. One’s personality is unique. Apparel is a tool to express one’s personality to others. Some examples of clothing selection under influence of different personalities are as follows: y y y Natural personalities usually prefer relaxed-style clothing Classic personalities usually prefer elegant, well-fitted, tailored clothing style, etc Creative personalities usually use a variety of clothing items in different combinations to reflect their mood and show off their fitness Clothing and personality should be harmonious. If wearers select clothing that does not correspond with their personality or behaviour, causing others to experience discomfort and uncertainty, it is called cognitive dissonance. 12 (E) Lifestyle Lifestyle refers to the pattern based on which a person lives his / her life. It establishes a pattern of consumption reflecting a person’s choice on how one spends one’s time and money. One’s lifestyle represents the way how one selects to allocate one’s income on different products, including clothing. In modern society, people are freer to select the lifestyle that defines them and create an identity to situate themselves as a particular in different groups of people. Consumer’s choice of clothing makes a statement about who one is and about the types of people with one desires to identity. Lifestyle is dynamic. One’s lifestyle is shaped by one’s role at that particular time. College students have a lifestyle that is centered on campus life. Parents’ lifestyle changes with each development stage of children. Retired people often make changes in their lifestyle, including changing hobbies, recreation and daily life. Outward signs such as clothes, homes, cars and jobs help people link themselves to others with similar lifestyle. Lifestyle is determined by the values, attitudes and interests of each individual. Some contemporary lifestyle trends and their implications on clothing selection are indicated in the following table: Lifestyle Trend Description Implications on Clothing Concern about the environment Concern for plant and animal lives and the earth environment Select clothing produced with environmentally friendly processes; recycled materials; green customers Focus on family life Increased focus on family values Wardrobes meet needs of family activities Cocooning Retreat into safe, home-like environment Internet and catalog shopping; use media for fashion sense Emphasis on Multiple roles to increase the the value of time value of time Convenient shopping; multifunctional clothing; pay attention to clothing care Do not emphasis on materialism Small, more utilitarian wardrobe; reduction in shopping Reduced emphasis on more, bigger, better, faster 13 Lifestyle Trend Description Implications on Clothing Emphasis on value of goods and services Increased interest in value for dollar spent Great interest in discount apparel products Clanning Finding belongingness through Select apparel products that clubs, support groups, can show social group cohousing, cyber clans membership Fantasy adventure Avoid boredom Choose on the edge cosmetics; obsession with celebrities Ergonomics Customisation of life; service on demand Prefer customised apparel products Figure 2.6 Lifestyle trends and implications (Adapted from: F Popcorn and L. Marigold, 1997. Clicking. New York: Haper Collins) (i) Values Values come from one’s culture, environment, family, peers and social experience. They are influenced by family members, peers and media. Values are also very individualistic. They cause conflict between people and sometimes tension between generations. Different values occur in length of hair, length of skirt, colour of hair dye, earrings and brands. The following are examples of value orientation and their relationship to clothing: Value Orientation Description Implications on Clothing Theoretical Economic Aesthetic Social Political Religious Discovery Practical Beauty Other directed Power Spiritual Seek product information Dress in comfort, bargain Dress attractively Conformity to dress code Dress to impress Modesty in dress Figure 2.7 Spranger’s value orientation (Source: E. Spranger. 1928. Types of Men. P.J.W. Pigors, Trans. Halle[Saale]: Max Neimeyer Verlag) 14 (ii) Attitudes Attitudes are a person’s mood, opinion and / or disposition. They are developed through interaction with family members and peers, education and experiences gained in the society. Attitudes can be reflected by clothing choice. Attitudes have three components. They are: z Affective Emotions or feelings about an object. For example, Emotions Clothing Choice Sexuality Youthfulness Sophistication Self-confidence Happiness Sadness Inferiority Superiority Body-revealing Current teen fads Understated, severe, cosmopolitan Appropriate attire for specific functions Fun-fashion, bright colour Somber hue, body-concealing Seductive, worn, inappropriate Expensive, high fashion, brands Figure 2.8 Emotions and clothing choice (Source : Individuality in Clothing Selection & Personal Appearance, 6th Ed., Marshall et al.) z Cognitive When belief clothing is very important to the status, respect and recognition, a person may spend a large proportion of income on clothing by squeezing other living expenses. z Behavioural Attitudes reflecting what the person actually does. A teen may stay home from a gathering because he / she does not have the right clothing. Some students behave more disciplined in the street when they are wearing their school uniforms. 15 (iii) Interest Interest refers to a feeling of having curiosity engaged by something particular. Usually the stronger the interest in the matter, the more effort is put on it, for example, stamp collection, make up or fashion. Sometimes, interests may be impersonal. Interest in clothing can be expressed by the following means: y y y y y y Attending fashion show Attention to personal appearance Frequent shopping for clothing Attention to wardrobe care and maintenance Experimenting different looks Reading fashion magazines (F) Education With improvement of the education system, young people are more educated now than at any time in the past. More educated consumers are more global minded, receptive to imports, discerning and demanding. These consumers are able to collect information on trendy and quality products. These factors stimulate apparel producers to provide well-designed, high-quality apparel products. (G) Occupation There are two major trends in employment: (1) a shift from blue-collar to white-collar jobs, and (2) an increasing number of women in the workplace. Write collar and women usually spend more on clothing than blue collar and men. Traditionally, most working adults are men. They dressed in their proper attire such as formal suits and shirts for white collar, jeans and work wear for blue collars. Women are housewives and dressed in casual wear. Today, women are participating at every level of the economy and as a result, their clothing needs changes. More and more manufacturers are producing clothing for women that are suitable for the workplace. Many retailers have expanded their "career dress" departments and have developed personal shopping services that cater to women who have less time to shop because of professional commitments. Another occupation-related factor, dress-down Friday, results in an increase in the production of casual clothing for work. Many major companies have instituted 16 relaxing dress requirements for all their employees one day a week. (H) Income The amount of money that consumers spend on clothing and other goods mostly depends on their income. Consumers living in developed countries may choose a wide variety of goods. Their income is higher than those in developing and under-developing countries. Consumers’ income can be measured in three ways: personal income, disposable income and discretionary income. z Personal income - z Disposable income - z The total amount of income from all sources such as wages and salaries, savings interest and dividend. Personal income minus taxes. This amount determines a person’s purchasing power. Discretionary income - Income left over after food, accommodation, and other necessities have been paid for. This money can be spent or saved at the person’s will. People with more discretionary income tend to buy more fashion goods. Young people spend the highest proportion of their income on clothing. People with different levels of income may have the following consideration in buying clothes: The very rich people with inherited wealth tend to be conservative in buying clothes. Quality is an important factor while cost and trend are not important. Understood elegance is probably the best way to describe their fashion preferences. The new rich people do not consider cost and their fashion purchases are usually made in the finest shops featuring the best of the world’s couture. The label is everything. They wish to tell the world of their success and do it through material extravagance such as expensive and recognisable apparel. 17 Affluent middle class people prefer designer labels and fashion-forward merchandise. Many top fashion producers manufacture separate lines especially for this market. Couture lines with brand names related to these top fashion producers are introduced trying to satisfy the needs of these consumers who find the price for the top fashion too extravagantly for them. These new couture lines can are priced less expensively but still satisfy this particular group of customers with their status labels. Besides, many of them are regular shoppers at off-price stores, where they purchase designer labels at lower prices than those at traditional department and specialty stores. Merchandise selections of average middle class people are geared to lesser quality merchandise. They are often the purchasers of trendy merchandise copied down to lower-price points that they can afford. For lower Income people, price is very important to them and purchases are generally made at stores that sell budget merchandise. Most purchasing is done at specialty chains that offer merchandise at minimum prices. They seek fashion items but their purchases are made when the styles have reached their lowest prices. In addition to the lower-priced specialty chains, they patronise the value discount retailers and off-price stores for low quality merchandise. Poor people are more concerned with survival than fashion. These individuals purchase clothing and accessories as necessities. (I) Occasional Requirements Consumers buy apparel for specific occasions. University graduates wear caps and gowns in their graduation ceremony. Brides wear white gowns and veils in their wedding party. These different kinds of apparel show the identities of particular wearers. By wearing appropriate or inappropriate clothing, people show their acceptance or rejection to the social environment. It is called modesty. The event a person attends also influences the amount of modesty. A man may wear a kilt to play a bagpipe at a gathering in Scotland but wearing a kilt anywhere else would probably embarrass him. 18 The following are the description on dress codes for different occasions: (i) Dress for Careers The company’s dress code is the primary guide to dressing in the job. The top management of a company could show their power by wearing appropriate clothes. Business power clothes are men’s suit, shirt and tie and female version of the business suits. In today’s business world, the standards of appropriateness in business dress code have undergone dramatic changes. They derive the following categories: y Traditional business dress consists of more classic business wear including suits, for men and ladies, dress shirts and ties for men and classic blouse and accessories for women. y Smart casual wear is more relaxing than traditional ones. y Everyday casual wear is very casual apparel including Tee-shirts, jeans, sweaters and shorts. y Creative dress is for the utmost expression of personality for people working in entertainment and the creative industry. y Uniform is outfits that can help identify individuals as members of a particular establishment. (ii) Dress for Leisure When engaging in leisure activities, people are more willing to present their personal appearance in a form that reflects a specific lifestyle. (iii) Dress for Special Occasions Different events give opportunities to dress differently. Some examples of these events are wedding, funeral, festival, etc. What to wear can create dilemmas if the occasion is unfamiliar. Often the safest choice is to under-dress. (iv) Dress for Travel Before traveling, one should be familiar with the weather, intended activities and dress customs of the place. Certain fabrics and garments withstand travel better than others, for example garments made by wrinkle-free fabric. 19 (J) Quality and Durability These are practical considerations for many consumers. Durability is highly related to quality. Consumer demand for quality has risen in recent years. Consumers consider clothing an investment and do not mind spending more for the lasting qualities of fine detailing and workmanship. Some consumers may look for a particular brand or name on the basis of a reputation for quality and durability. At the same time, the durability of a garment and the ease of caring for it are often factors being considered in the selection process. Care Label A great variety of fibres are used in making clothes. They have different physical and chemical properties and need to be washed with different detergent and dried in different ways. Care label becomes very important for clothing care. Many places in the world have their own care label system to cater for their consumers’ need Care label of different places are as follows: British care label – BS2747 International Standards Organisation - ISO150 International Association for Textile Care Labeling – GINETEX Japanese Standard Association – JIS Australian Standard – AD1957 – 1987 American Society for Testing and Material – ASTM O3136-88 In Hong Kong, there is no regulation for requesting textile products to have washing instruction and fibre content attached with their products. Symbols commonly found in a care label are as follows: 20 Washing Hand wash Machine wash at 40oC Bleaching Can be bleached Ironing Cool iron at 110oC Drying Can be tumble dried Dry-cleaning Can be dry cleaned (K) Physical Needs & Health Concern People need physical protection from dirt, insects and other harmful agents in the environment. Shoes protect a person’s feet from soil, hard objects and hot and cold surfaces. Some specific types of garment protect workers from the dangers that might arise from their working environment, for example incident uniform of fireman (flame resistant). As technology continues to develop, a lot of protective garment has also developed. Hard hats and safety goggles have been standard equipment for many job sites. More recently, special garment has been developed to protect against contamination, chemicals, radiation and fire. Athletics need to wear protective clothing, for example, helmets, gloves and pads provide protection while skateboarding. Special shoes worn by tennis players and basketball players are designed to protect them from slipping. For maternity clothing of pregnant women, different parts of the garment should have plenty of fullness for comfort when standing and sitting. 21 (L) Family influence Family member is one of the reference groups affecting individuals’ choice of clothing. There are three effects of family member: (i) Joint Decision Making For many people, the buying of expensive apparel items will be a joint decision with parent(s), spouse or sibling(s) acting as advisors to the person who will wear the item. Each of them will take up different roles in the joint decision making process and the roles are as follows: - (ii) User: The person who will wear the clothing Decider(s): This person could be the wearer or one of the advisor(s) Buyer: The person could be the wearer or in the case of a child user, this person would be another family member. Consumer Socialisation Socialization is a process which new members of the society (children or adult immigrants) acquire the values, beliefs and customs through different reference groups. This allows them to get into the society and establish their identity in the social group. Reference groups of young people are their family, classmates, friends and neighbours. Through interacting with these reference groups, young people learn the skills, knowledge and attitudes needed, such as what is the accepted behaviour, suitable clothing for different occasions, appropriate consumption that fit their status. Like children accompany their parents on shopping trips and learn how to select items, how to compare price and quality and how to match styles and colours. When they grow up, young people usually are skilled shoppers by the time they buy clothes for themselves without supervision of their parents. 22 (iii) Family Life Cycle Consumption is also shaped differently in different stages of the family life cycle. The following table shows the consumption pattern of the family life cycle: Stage Buying Pattern Bachelorhood (I) - new family not yet formed few financial burdens, plenty of discretionary income keep abreast with the fashion trend - - a new family is just formed and without children - - financial burden is not too heavy a higher purchasing power of durables. spend more on household good, such as washing machine, dryer, television - may buy luxury good such as cars and travel may also buy products related to leisure activities such as casual wear, camera - - Honeymooner - Parenting: Full Nest I - - Parenting: Full Nest II Products/Services to be brought - - - - - a high degree of autonomy in expense expenses on entertainment, social activities and trendy items, such as fashion, dining out with the youngest child at the age of six great increase in expenses interested in children’s products and advertised products. - great increase in expenses on daily necessities and baby products, such as baby food, medical expenses, toys, clothing the youngest child is usually at the age of six to twelve may have an increased income due to increased working experience less influenced by advertising - purchase great quantity of household goods, such as food, cleansing agents buy larger-sized packages expenses on children’s education as the major expenditure, such as piano lesson, extra curricular activities - - Purchase of daily clothing and clothing for children’s 23 Stage Buying Pattern Products/Services to be brought activities, such as sports wear Parenting: Full Nest III - - - - Parenting: Nest Leaving - - Empty Nest - with the youngest child is a teenager some children may have started to work to release parents’ financial burden may still need to support children who are attending school not easy to be influenced with advertising - children may get married and leave home less financial burden not interested in new products - may buy products with better quality and more durable, such as apparel products with brand name retirement of both parents or just one of them, decrease in income - Expenses are mainly for basic necessity such as medical, appliances, medical-care products and services that aid health purchase of non-essential apparel products declines - - - Solitary survivor - one of the parents died and the other depends mainly on saving - - may purchase non-essential products children who start working will buy clothing for work besides buying basic apparel products, will also buy items with special design Increased expenses on medical and care seldom buy apparel products 24 2.1.2 Peer and Society (A) Peers Peers are the most important reference group influencing a person’s buying decision other than his/her family. Reference group refers to an individual or group. The perspective of a reference group will affect the forming of attitudes and overt behaviour of a consumer. The reference group of a buyer affects the consumer’s buying decision in two ways: They set level of aspiration for an individual They define the actual items considered acceptable for the display of this level of acceptance Peer group is a reference group that affects a person most. (i) Friendship Peer Groups They are informal groups, usually with unstructured organisation. Friends fulfill a wide range of needs: they provide companionship, security and opportunities to discuss problems that an individual may be reluctant to discuss with family members. The opinions and preference of friends have an important influence on the choice of products or brands. Consumers are more likely to seek information from those friends who they believe having the values or attitude similar to their own. (ii) Formal Social Groups A person joins a formal social group to fulfill specific goals such as learning, making new friends or pursuing a special interest. Formal social groups often consume certain products together. For example, a school requires all its students to buy uniforms, a swimming society may persuade its members to buy swimsuit and equipments in some outlets. Membership in a formal group may also influence each other’s buying behaviour. Members have frequent opportunities to informally discuss products or brands. 25 (iii) Shopping Groups Two or more people shop together can be called a shopping group. Many people like to shop with others have similar personality or who they feel have more experience or knowledge about a desired product. Shopping with others also provides an element of social fun. Besides, it reduces the risk that a product will be incorrect and socially unacceptable. (iv) Working Groups Working groups can be formal and informal. Formal working groups consist of those individuals who work together as a team. Their direct and continuous work relationship offers substantial opportunity for one or more members to influence each other in terms of consumption-related attitudes and activities. Informal work groups consist of people who have become friends as a result of working together, whether or not they work together as a team. Members of informal work groups may influence the consumption behaviour of other members during coffee, lunch time or after-hours meetings. (v) Group Norm and Conformity A norm can be defined as a rule of behaviour for meeting societal expectations. All members of a group will adhere to the normative system established for that group. To enforce this, any given group tends to exert conformity pressure on their members. Conformity in dress can be thought as an acceptance of or adherence to a clothing norm, which represents the typical or accepted manner of dressing shown by a specific group. The term mode is used to mean the most common form of clothing worn among a given group of people or the greatest frequency of style. A teenager peer group may find one member’s choice of clothing unacceptable and make fun of him/her before the group members accept it as a group norm of dress or conform to the new mode. Information from the peer group can lead to conformity with group norms, such as high school cliques adhere to strictly defined clothing norm. School uniform also is an example of conformity in dress, albeit imposed upon students by the school. Similarly, dress codes in the workplace act to create or maintain a unified look or image. They are sometimes explicit with clear rules restricting on the wearing of uniform. More often, they are implicit where clothing norms are understood and followed. 26 (vi) Group Effects on Individual Buying Behaviour z Individualism With more people in a group, it becomes less likely that any of the members will be singled out. As a group, normal restraints on one’s behaviour are reduced. For example, people dress more dramatically in a costume parties or on Halloween night. z Group shopping Many people will shop with at least one other person tend to make more unplanned purchases, buy more and cover more stores than those who go alone. Members of a group may be convinced to buy a fashion item to gain an approval of the others or may simply be exposed to more products and stores by pooling information with the rest of the group. (B) Society When people do not know the correct way to respond to certain social expectations and using other people as a cue to ensure that his/her response is correct, the individual is under normative social influence. For example, a person’s clothing choice conforming to the clothing mode is for the acceptance of the peer group. People tend to seek for validation of their own opinions and behaviour from others. For example, when new employees in the workplace are unsure of how to follow an unwritten dress code, they just take reference of their colleagues’ attire and follow. (i) Types of Social Factors Affecting Group Conformity: z Cultural pressure Different cultures encourage conformity to different degrees, for example, collective well-being and group loyalty over individual needs are stressed in Japanese society. z Fear of deviance The individual believes that the group will apply sanctions to punish behaviour that differs from the group’s expectation. 27 z Commitment The more a person dedicates to a group and values its membership, the more motivated the person will be to follow the group’s norm. z Group unanimity, size and expertise As groups gain in power, compliance increases. It is often harder to resist the demands of a large number of people than just a few. z Gender difference Women are more susceptible then men to interpersonal influence since they are more sensitive to social cues and tend to be more group-oriented and cooperative in nature. z Susceptibility to interpersonal influence This refers to an individual’s need to identify or enhance his/her image in the opinion of his/her significant others. This enhancement process often is accompanied by the acquisition of products the person believes will impress his/her audience. Consumers who are low on this trait is called role relaxed and they tend to be older and affluent and have high self-confidence. Young people are more susceptible to such influence. (ii) Influenced by Word-of-mouth Word-of-mouth (WOM) is important information being transmitted from individuals to individuals through verbal means. It is a persuasive means as WOM tends to be more reliable and trustworthy than the recommendations one gets from merchants. Unlike advertising, WOM is often backed by social pressure to conform to these recommendations. Examples of developing WOM: z A person might be highly involved with a type of product or activity and get pleasure in talking about it. Fashion enthusiasts seem to steer their conversation onto their subject. z A person might be knowledgeable about fashion trend and use conservation as a way to let other know about it. 28 (iii) Influence of Opinion Leaders If a person intends to buy fashion items, he/she would tend to consult leading fashion magazines, or see what the influential celebrities or fashion leaders are wearing. An opinion leader is a person who is frequently able to influence other’s attitudes and behaviour. Opinion leaders are extremely valuable information sources for a number of reasons: z They are technically competent and thus are convincing as they posses expert power. z They provide pre-screened, evaluated and synthesised product information in an unbiased way, so they possess knowledge power. As opinion leaders do not actually represent any commercial establishments, they tend to be more credible. z They tend to be socially active and interact with the community, which in many ways enhances their level of influence. z They tend to share similar values and beliefs as general consumers. They are considered to possess referent power. z Opinion leaders are often among the first to get hold of new products, so they absorb the risk. This experience reduces uncertainty for others. They would voice both the positive and negative side of the product performance. Fashion opinion leaders are those people who buy early in the fashion season. True fashion leaders constantly seek distinction and therefore are likely to launch a succession of fashion rather than just one. Fashion opinion would usually exhibit most of the following profiles: z Young female Not married, without children Relatively high income or occupational level Readers of fashion magazines Gregarious, social and competitive Like and do not object to change z Exhibitionist or narcissistic z z z z z 29 (iv) Influence of Mass Media and Advertising In Hong Kong, people have easy access to newspapers, many general and special interest magazines and television channels. Consumers are constantly exposed to new ideas, products, opinions and advertisements. Mass media communications provide an important source of information that influences the formation of consumer attitudes. The primary purpose of advertising is to sell goods and services to people. It does this by frequent and regular communication with customers, making them aware of products and services and creating a desire to possess these products. The media that carry advertisement include print (newspapers, magazines), broadcast (Radio, TV), direct mail advertising, position advertising and point-of-sale displays. Different advertising styles will be used for different price level of clothing. High-end Fashion Medium-priced clothing Low-priced clothing y y y y Only the designer or brand name appears. No detailed description about the company accompanies the photography. Customers are notified with the new arrivals rather than being persuaded to buy. There are clear photographs and extensive descriptions to tell customers that they will be fashionable and achieving a lifestyle that they desire by wearing these styles. Advertising is limited and emphasise on price. Figure 2.9 Styles of advertising for different price levels Advertising can psychologically affect the consumers. For example, the purchase of licensed athletic goods from brands promises of athletic success; hair products offer increased attention from the opposite sex. 30 2.1.3 Culture (A) What is Culture? Culture refers to the learnt, socially acquired traditions of thought and behaviour in human societies. (Harris and Johnson, 2000, P.9) Culture is passed down from generation to generation. Although it is always re-interpreted by different generations, culture tends to be similar from one generation to another. Each culture is unique. Individuals and groups in a particular culture differ in their ideas of what is attractive, appropriate and fashionable because they are influenced by different cultural environments. (B) Motivation for Clothing Selection for Different Cultures People live in different parts of the world. Each group forms a distinctive culture different from others. They choose different clothing for different reasons: (i) Protection To protect the body from harm is the primary reason for different cultural costumes being developed. There are two types of protection: z Physical protection This involves wearing the body coverings and adornment to facilitate individuals’ survival in an unfavorable environment such as Eskimos wearing fur and skins to resist the cold temperature and Arabians wearing hijab to protect them from sand storms in deserts. z Psychological protection This involves wearing the body coverings and adornment that defend individual from harmful spiritual powers. For instance, Western people believed that bridal veils protect the bride from evil spirit and American Indian believed that eagle feather possessed magical power. 31 (ii) Clothing for Modesty Expression of modesty is found among all cultures but still there is a lack of agreement as to what constitutes modesty. To what extent the body is covered is quite different between different cultures, and even among individuals in a culture. Traditional Japanese take the bath in public bath where both genders bath together and their nudity is not considered immodesty, but Japanese kimono is body enveloping. Bikini is very common in beaches of foreign countries, but many Chinese females are hesitated to wear it in China. (iii) Clothing as a Means to meet Socio-economic Needs In many cultures, social and economic positions are indicated by the quality and quantity of possessions. For example, in ancient China, wealthy Chinese women grew their fingernails to inordinate lengths, tied the feet and wore long sleeved robes, thus showing that they did not need to perform lowly manual jobs. In the 19th century, rich and powerful English businessmen wore high, tight and white collars with their heavy, stiff Edwardian suits. The clothes made them look gentle and thus they were called the White Collar Workers. Today, many people also show their status with particular selections of clothing. People think that wealthy people are financially resourceful to afford any kinds of clothes they choose whereas less income means less money for clothing. Low income people who desire to appear prosperous may spend the majority of their income on apparel. Volume Layers of garments, number of beads and necklaces, rows of bracelets Colour Rare and exclusive colour Style Tailor-made design and accessories Quality Metals, jewels, fabrics, fur, tailor-made Workmanship Construction skills, quality of tattooing or scarification Figure 2.10 Clothing and social status (Source : Individuality in Clothing Selection & Personal Appearance, 6th Ed., Marshall et al.) (iv) Sumptuary Laws Sumptuary laws are the laws regulating the pattern of consumption including style of and personal expenditures on clothing. They restrict individual choice on colour, motif 32 and style that designated rank, class and position in society. In ancient China, people were forbidden to wear in royal colour. In ancient Japan, all citizens were controlled on wearing apparel of specific fabrics, colours and decorative designs according to their positions in society. In contemporary societies, some limitations are still observed around the world. Some examples of these apparel limitations are: (C) Ethnic Group Geographic environment separates human being into different ethnic groups on the globe. They have different cultures and identity. Ethnic identity refers to a set of self-ideas and the presentation of individuals as members of a particular ethnic group. The identification of a unique cultural construct through which people identify themselves is call ethnicity. The cultural construct involves shared value, believes, customs and norms. Dress and adornment are some elements of the identity kit for any particular cultures. They are used as the “tangible evidence of the link to the geographic place of their cultural heritage”. In many regions of the world, national costumes and styles in dress and ornament declare membership in a certain village, caste, religion, etc. A Scotsman declares his clan with his tartan. A Muslim woman might wear a hijab to express her religion. A male Sikh may display his religious affiliation by wearing a turban and other traditional clothing. A French peasant woman may identify her village with her cap or coif. (D) Marital Status Visible means of recognising marital status is a common practice among many different cultures. Hindu women, once married, wear sindoor, a red powder, in the parting of their hair; if widowed, they abandon sindoor and jewelry and wear simple white clothing. Japanese women wear kimono and puff with different styles and colours to indicate their marital status. Men and women of the Western world may wear wedding rings to indicate their marital status. (E) Political Belief Political movements have been supported and suppressed by dress. During the French Revolution, people wore sans-culottes, which was a symbol of freedom. In 33 China, the revolution leaders like Sun Yat-sen and Mao Ze-dong wore tunic suits representing liberation and revolution. People regard themselves as comrades and also follow the “Zhongshan zhuang” and “Mao suit” styles. Colours also represent personal political believes. In political gatherings in Taiwan, supporters of different political parties wear Tee-shirts in different colours: red, green and orange. (F) Religious Habits and Special Religious Clothing . Sometimes, religious clothing is worn only during the performance of religious ceremonies. However, it may also be worn every day as a marker of special religious status. Some examples of religious clothing as markers of special religion status are: Tenets of the Islamic faith prohibit the wearing of pure silk garments. However, wearing silk blended with cotton is acceptable. Indian women are adorned with a red or saffron tika mark on their foreheads to show that they have made their offering at the temple. The saffron-robed monks of the Buddhist faith wear draped garments of an intensive yellow-orange colour set to show their status. 2.1.4 Environment (A) Physical Protection Clothing selection should consider the facilitation of individuals’ survival in unfriendly environments. Different climates in different places create different clothing needs. Garments for summer and winter vary in terms of texture, weight and colour. Clothes for hot weather need to make the wearers feel cool while clothes for cold weather need to have warm effect. Consumers’ wardrobes need to be changed according to the change of weather. Most animals have hairs to keep warm in cold weather. To keep the body warm, 34 human being should cover the torso with several clothing layers. Each layer traps a pocket of air. This keeps body heat in and lets moisture out. However, wearing too many layers will hinder body movement. Also, the outer layer must be big enough to go over the rest. On the contrary, people living in hot weather regions wear less. Natives in Africa used to wear bare tops to make the body feel cold. Hot weather clothes are characterised by shorts, Tee-shirts, hats, bikini, etc. Today, people are more concerned with protecting the body from direct sun exposure. The fabrics of garments should be chosen according to climatic conditions. To keep warmth, consumers choose fuzzy, wool-like garments. Double knits, quilted fabrics and laminated fabrics give extra warmth. Down or other fillers are used in garments to keep warmth too. Garments that fit snugly at the neck, wrists and ankles keep drafts of cold air out. For hot weather, garments of cotton are a good choice as they absorb respiration effectively. They are very comfortable and let the body breathe with ease. Colours affect the level of heat absorbance of clothing. The white colour reflects heat while the black colour absorbs most heat. In summer, wearing white or light colours will have a cooler effort than black or dark colours. When going outdoors, people sometimes need protection against wind and rain. People need apparel to keep warm and dry. In cold weather, long undergarments worn under clothes provide a great amount of warmth. In the northern part of the globe, cold climates demand higher spending costs of clothing. Items such as coats, boots, hats, scarves, sweaters, and long underwear are needed to protect individuals against the cold. People need more variety in their wardrobe when they live in geographic regions that have distinct seasonal changes. A mild climate, where temperature variations are less severe, causes fewer clothing needs and less clothing budget. (B) Ultra-Violet Light and Ozone (i) What is Ultra-Violet Light? Emissions of the Sun include Ultra-Violet (UV), visible light, heat and other radiations. These emissions are characterised by their wavelength, expressed in manometers (1 35 nm = 10-9 m). As visible light can be divided into colours which we can see in rainbows, UV is subdivided and commonly defined as Ultraviolet-A(UVA), Ultraviolet-B(UVB) and Ultraviolet-C(UVC). All UVC (very short wavelength UV) is absorbed by the atmosphere and does not reach the Earth's surface. UVB is biologically damaging UV but most of this is absorbed by the atmosphere. Long wavelength UVA is the most intense UV reaching the Earth and can penetrate furthest into tissue but it is not as biologically damaging as UVB. However, recent researches revealed that UVA contributes to aging and skin cancer. (ii) Depletion of Ozone Layer Ozone is a form of molecular oxygen existing predominantly in the upper atmosphere. It is continuously formed by oxygen absorbing the sun's short-wave UVC and then broken down by a number of chemicals such as chlorine from chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) and by absorption of UVC and UVB. Since ozone is an effective absorber of UV, depletion of the stratospheric ozone layer results in people and the environment being exposed to higher intensities of UV, particularly UVB. Due to the pollution of the atmosphere, the protective ozone layer is being depleted at a rate sufficient to leave "holes" over the Antarctic, causing higher UV exposures to residents of New Zealand and some southern parts of Australia. Ozone holes have now been reported over parts of Europe and North America. (iii) Factors Affecting UV Exposure z Solar elevation (height of the sun in the sky) The intensity of solar UV, and especially UVB, depends on the height of the sun in the sky. This varies depending on the season of the year, time of day and latitude. UV intensities are highest during the summer months in the 4-hour period around noon (or 13:00 if daylight saving is in effect). z Latitude and altitude The UV intensity at the earth's surface is related to the angle at which the UV rays pass through the atmosphere. In the tropics (near the equator), solar UV is more intense because it has less distance to travel through the atmosphere to the surface of the Earth. UV intensities increase with altitude. This is because the amount of atmosphere available to absorb UV is decreased when the altitude is higher, so more 36 and shorter wavelength UV is able to reach higher altitude areas. In high altitudes, skiers can be exposed to higher intensities of UV, especially with snow being a very effective reflector. z Atmospheric scattering Solar UV is composed of direct and scattered radiation. The sky looks blue because the blue rays from sunlight are highly scattered by the atmosphere. UV is scattered even more than blue light and this can lead to an increase in a person's exposure to UV. z Clouds and haze UV intensities are highest under cloudless skies. Clouds generally reduce UV intensity but light or thin clouds have little effect and under certain conditions may even enhance the UV intensity. Hazy days generally have higher amounts of water vapor in the air; UV scattering in the atmosphere increases and can result in a higher personal UV exposure. Thus, even though haze or cloud cover can cause one to feel cooler, the UV exposure can still be high. z Ground reflection Most natural surfaces such as grass, soil and water reflect less than 10% of incident UV. However, fresh snow strongly reflects 80% UV. Sand also reflects 10-25% UV and can significantly increase UV exposure at beaches. Reflected UV is an important source of exposure to the eye. (iv) Choose Protective Apparel and Accessories in Sunny Days The best form of protection is to wear loose-fitting, closely woven fabrics that cast a dense shadow when held up to the light. Most types of textiles, both natural and synthetic, provide good protection against Ultra Violet. It is the density of the weave that primarily determines whether or not the material is a good sunscreen. Whether a material is wet or dry is also important in relation to the amount of UV it absorbs. There is less absorption of UV when a fabric is wet. Colour also plays a role. Dark colours may be warmer to wear and provide better protection because the dye pigments absorb UV rays and also visible light. Hats with brims at least 7 cm wide not only protect the top of the head but also provide shade for the face and neck on which skin cancers commonly occur. A neckerchief (a small piece of material about the size of a large handkerchief) on the back of the neck will provide added protection against 37 UV exposure. The overexposure of UV radiation can eventually lead to eye cataracts and other vision problems. Sunglasses can provide UV protection. (C) Cold Weather While in many places clothing is more a way of expressing personal style, clothing for colder climates depends on the outside weather. Clothing becomes an important factor for protecting the body and comfort. The body needs an optimum temperature to maintain the basal metabolic rate. Prolong exposure to cold will lead to hypothermia which is fatal. Therefore it is important to wear proper clothes to maintain a stable body temperature. Wearing several layers of clothes can keep the body warmer than just one thick piece of clothing. Air bags are formed between layers of clothing, the air trapped in the air bags is a poor heat conductor and retards the lost of body temperature. In cold climate, 3 layers of clothing can be worn for keeping warm. Different accessories can also be used to keep the sensitive parts of the body warm. (i) The First Layer: Wicking Layer The body temperature goes down when sweat is evaporated. Even without physical activity, the body sweats about 0.05 to 0.08 liters of water per hour. In high altitude and in extreme coldness, it may even be more. It is important to stay dry and avoid the lost of heat. Polartec material and pure polypropylene with a layer of wool woven are suitable as the 1st layer of clothing in the cold weather. They are able to absorb the moisture on the skin and dry quickly as the moisture is transported to the next layer of clothing. (ii) The Second Layer: Insulation Layer The second layer can compose of several pieces of clothes which act as insulator to preserve the warm air caused by the body temperature Fleece, pile materials (e.g. corduroy and velvet), woven and knitted fabrics made by blending cotton, wool, silk, polyester, acrylic, nylon and other fibres together are suitable textiles materials. Down can also keep the body warm but should never come in contact with moisture. 38 (iii) The Third Layer: Protection Layer The 3rd layer of clothing should be able to resist rain, wind and snow. A coat using thick woven materials made of wool, polyester, nylon, polyester and cotton blend can keep the body warm. Fabric with wind blocking finishes can block the cold air. (iv) Sensitive Body Parts: Hands and Feet Multilayer socks should be worn to protect the feet. The first layer of socks should be thin polypropylene socks or silk socks. A second layer can be of fleece socks or sheep wool socks to keep the feet dry. Boots with inside part made from felt is very suitable. Gloves can protect the hands from low temperatures because cold would make fingers become stiff and start hurting. One can further protect the head with a cap (wool or fleece) or a headband. The neck part can be wrapped with a scarf of wool or fleece. Eyes need to be especially protected at high wind speeds. Skiing glasses with double layered screens are very useful. (D) Environmental Protection Physical environment influences our lives and the clothing we wear. If the environment is not properly protected, we and our next generations will suffer. Today, many consumers, especially the young consumers, show their favour to environmentally friendly products when they make their buying decisions. They are educated to be environmentally aware in school. Environmental advocates, mass media and governments also promote to build a green and sustainable living environment for people. In foreign countries, products complying with criteria of environmental protection are attached with an eco-label. This practice is more systematic in developed countries such as the Eco-label in EU and Eco Mark in Japan. Environmental labeling or "eco-labeling" plays a very important role to attract consumers to support environmental protection, especially with the increased awareness on the need to protect the environment. Consumers, industrialists, technologists and society as a whole should not only make their purchasing decisions based on the key aspects associated to the product itself but also include the 39 environmental effects before, during and after manufacturing of the products. Thus, "eco-labeling" presents a judgment of products' relative environmental qualities. It also guarantees that a product is environmentally friendly at all stages of its life cycle and that it satisfies both voluntary and regulatory requirements. Participation in eco-labeling programs is voluntary. The criterion for granting eco-label to a product is based on the degree of environmentally friendliness involved during its lifecycle. The lifecycle of manufactured products means: z z z z z Pre-production such as recycling textile materials Production such as emission of toxic air, waste water, etc Packaging/Distribution such as harmful plastic materials Utilization such as energy saving in ironing, water saving in laundry Disposal such as decomposition Some common environmental labels used outside Hong Kong are: z z z z Eco-label Flower (EU) Oko-Tex 1000 (Sweden) Eco Mark (Japan) Environmental Labeling (China) In Hong Kong, a voluntary organization, Green Council, is promoting the eco-labeling scheme. Although the movement is only at its initial stage and has not yet covered textile products, it is anticipated that with the advancement of environmental protection, more and more products, including textile and apparel products, will apply for eco-label in order to be recognised in the market. Green Label (Hong Kong) 40 2.1.5 Science and Technology Innovation (A) Technology Development and the Apparel Industry In a technical and highly industrial society, clothing styles change rapidly. When cotton was the chief clothing materials, cotton textile mills were built. The mills produced great amounts of fabric. Factories that mass produced cotton clothing followed. With the invention of synthetic fibres, people changed their taste and synthetic fibres were then mass produced. Scientific and technological innovation in the textile and apparel industries is an important factor driving the preference of apparel consumers in the past and present. It will most certainly continue in the future. (B) What is Innovation? An innovation is any products or services that are perceived to be new by consumers. Innovations may take the form of a new material, new clothing style, a new manufacturing technique or a new way to deliver a particular kind of service. If an innovation is successful, it spreads through the population. First, it is bought and/or used by only a few people. Then more and more consumers decide to adopt it until it seems that almost everyone has bought or tried the innovation. Diffusion of innovations refers to this process whereby a new product, service or idea spreads through a population. (C) Users Not all people adopt an innovation at the same rate. Some do so quite rapidly and others never do at all. Young people are usually early adopters of new products such as mobile phones and fashion products. In some cases, consumers deliberately wait to adopt an innovation because they assume that its price will fall after it has been in the market for a while or, in the case of technology, its qualities or features will be improved. In our society, many people become so called "techthusiasts" – people who buy new technology or subscribe to new services rather promptly. They are more affluent, younger and better educated city dwellers. In contrast, “technophobes” have a fear of 41 technology. (D) Techno Garments Garment design can involve very high level technology in the production process. Today, many designers work hand in hand with scientists in different new frontiers. Besides colours and styles, garments are designed with functions that can detect and respond to temperature changes, identify and combat bacteria, screen out ultraviolet, remember the shape, change colour and wick away moisture. Consumers can have a wider selection of garments with well-fitted functions. (E) Information Technology (IT) The cyberspace provides a platform for consumers to explore, compare options of and make decision on clothing. They can view fashion shows on webcast to know what will be the trendiest styles in other places of the world. They can also buy clothing through the Internal at home. Furthermore, information technology also aids sellers to design and market their apparel products to consumers in more effective ways. (i) Use of IT in Retailing Technology will greatly attract consumers to buy more clothing. It reduces long checkout lines and facilitates credit card processing. It will make the process of finding products quicker and easier. Consumers can get product and marketing information from retailers through their customer database. Non-store retailing allows consumers to obtain convenience and entertainment in the course of their shopping process. Developed from catalog mail order, non-store retailing includes television retailing and e-tailing. y Television retailing involves showing and describing merchandise on certain TV channels. Viewers order by telephone, pay by credit card and have the apparel sent to them. y E-tailing (Electronic retailing) involves viewing merchandise on computers at home. 3-dimensional pictures with detailed descriptions will allow users to compare different features and prices. Viewers order by keying in the item(s) and credit card information. The merchandise will then be sent to them. 42 Through the Internal, goods can be sold directly to consumers at anytime around the world. Body scanning will be the other IT equipment eventually used by high-tech retailers. It collects individual sizing information and store on “smart cards” that can be read by card readers and updated if needed. Consumers will be able to redesign garments electronically. Lengths, colours and patterns can be changed until the right selection is made. (ii) Use of IT in Production Innovation adaptors want fashion that is close to the trend. To meet their demands, apparel sellers use IT to facilitate the quick supply of goods to the market. Lead time of production is shortened to a few weeks and even a few days. Today, because of computers, apparel firms can learn quickly from retailers what has been sold. This permits apparel firms to continually update its record and decide what to produce. New technology enables the industry to speed up the product development process, preassembly operations, manufacturing processes and finishing operations. For many companies, computers make transfer of information from one company to another in very fast speed. Designers develop a group of new designs in advance of the buying period of consumers. The designs may be done nine months to one year in advance. Computer-aided design system can shorten this lead time. Computers can store many basic styles including designs from previous lines. When creating new ideas for a line, designers can sketch new garments on the screen and manipulate lines, silhouette, fabric patterns, colour and other design features. Old style can be retrieved for modification, too. Many companies today store a large portion of their basic patterns in the computer's memory. In the product development stage, a company can modify an existing pattern for many new styles without having to start from the beginning. By not having the need to go through the sample-making stage every single time, a great deal of time is trimmed from the schedule of developing a collection. 43 2.2 Implication 2.2.1 Implications on Individual and Family (A) Proper Selection of Clothing Since individual’s clothing will accumulate overtime and become one’s asset, it is important that the selection should be appropriate. Improper selection of clothing will have a negative impact on individuals’ finance, appearance, hygiene, health, group image and even sustainable development of society and the environment as a whole. (B) Wardrobe Planning Developing a well-planned wardrobe can make sure one’s clothes are suitable for his/her lifestyle, within family budgets and, most importantly, avoid of resources wastage. This requires a careful analysis on styles, fabrics and clothing construction and then organisation and coordination of different groups of clothing to serve different needs. (i) Lifestyle Analysis The lifestyle analysis will help individuals understand the pattern of various activities in everyday living. Using a chart to show different activities can help get a graphic idea of the percentage of wardrobe devoting to different types of clothing required by these different activities. (ii) Existing Clothing Analysis The analysis helps individuals understand his / her clothing preference and identify one’s his / her own fashion personality. One can use the following to evaluate the clothing owned: 44 Lifestyle z z Design z z z z z Fit z z z Quality z z z z Care z z z z z Dominant activities Anticipated dominant activities Lines Style Colour Texture Classic or trendy Current body conformity Comfort Psychological comfort Price Durability Fibre Contents Fabrication Design Construction Shape Retention Ironing Ease Soiling Vulnerability Cleaning Methods Maintenance Expenses (iii) Grouping of Clothing The next step is to group one’s clothes in the wardrobe into categories. They can be sorted in the following four groups: z Clothing worn frequently They are clothes that an individual likes to wear. They are probably well-suited to one’s personality, lifestyle and climatic conditions. These clothes are probably the most flattering to one’s body shape and complexion. By examining the styles, textures and colours of the clothes in this group, one can discover what makes them pleasing, practical and appropriate for one’s needs. This information can help one make wise purchases in the future. 45 z Clothing worn occasionally This group is not the most favourite clothes for an individual. They are worn occasionally. However, one can try to create some fashion flairs by combining these separates with some items in the first group. Mixing clothes is not about having a lot of clothes but it is about being resourceful, allowing one to maximise the use of the existing resources. z Clothing that needs modifying This group consists of the clothes worth to save but need attention before they can be worn again. Fixing these clothes will expand one’s clothing collection with less money spent when compared to buying brand new items. Some clothes can be recycled by alternation or restyling. For example, removal of the extra fullness of a skirt, alteration on the length of a pair of pants or addition of some trimmings. Some outdated garments can be modified to reflect the current trend. z Clothing not worn for a year This group of clothes is not right for one because they are not comfortable, outdated, unfitted or do not match with one’s lifestyle anymore. If the item is still liked, one should put it into the closet for later use. The rest should be disposed to save space in one’s wardrobe unless there are good reasons to keep them. (iv) Develop a Future Wardrobe Plan After assessing the future needs and wants and examining the existing wardrobe, one can develop a future wardrobe plan by mending the weak areas of one’s wardrobe. In developing a wardrobe plan, one should consider the balance between basics and extenders. z Basics These are the basic apparels that are also the core of one’s wardrobe. They are worn most often. They should be apparel of good quality, without faddish details or extreme silhouette. They can be mixed and matched with other items. Clothes that last a long time without going out of fashion are called investment clothing. They are worth being kept in one’s wardrobe. 46 z Extenders Sometimes they are called extras. Extenders add individuality and flairs to the wardrobe. If extenders are coordinated, they can be mixed and matched in different fashionable ways and produce multiple combinations of outfits. (C) Clothing Care Proper care of clothing does not only keep the quality appearance of clothing, it also prolongs its life and avoids wastage. (i) Routine Maintenance z Daily care Preventive care keeps soiling and damages to a minimum. When dressing and undressing, wearers should: - not ruin clothes by snagging, ripping or stretching them. be careful not to stain the cloth with cosmetic, food, etc. After wearing, wearers should check it for stains, soils and damages such as rips, missing buttons, broken zippers or unstitched hems. Brush, air and press clothes when needed to prepare them for the future wearing. z Seasonal care This is usually done in springs and autumns for weather changes. Apparels that will not be used for several months should be put away to leave wardrobe space for clothes of the current season. Clothes should be cleaned before being stored. Also, make any needed repairs before the damages worsen. Some clothing launderers have long-term storage service. (ii) Clothing Storage Ideal storage can provide protection for garments from: • • • • Dust and dirt Insects Fungus and bacteria Dye transfer 47 • • • Moisture Light Raw wood In well-organised closets, garments should not be crowded. They should be hung straight and alternated with appropriate space. Hanging space is organised to accommodate length and bulk of garments. In a wardrobe, there should be flat and hanging storage space as well as accessory storage space. Separate storage areas should be designated for basics and extended items. (iii) Laundry Work Laundry work refers to the ways used to clean garments to restore their original looks involving the following aspects: washing, bleaching, drying and ironing. Usually, care instructions are shown on the care label on apparel. If the garment is not treated properly according to the stated instructions, it may be damaged. One of the following methods can be used according to the materials, fabrication and construction of garment. z Washing The process of hand or machine washing and drying the garments to remove soil and stains as well as to restore their appearance. z Dry cleaning The use of petroleum solvents such as perchloroethylene (PERC) and synthetic solvents such as tricholotriflourothethane for soil and stain removal. z Wet cleaning The use of water-based technique such as steaming, spotting, etc, to wash garments for soil and stain removal. (D) Making the purchase A smart consumer always plans purchases and shop wisely. Money spent on clothes consumes a portion of income. Shopping wisely can save money and help get better quality goods. Beside fashion consciousness, one must also be budget conscious. 48 To search for the best clothes, one must compare the qualities and prices of the same or similar items in different stores before buying. Quality is often, but not always, related to price. Sometimes, high quality garments are on sale or it may be offered in the store with low overhead. Furthermore, not all high priced garments are of high quality. Sometimes, prices are raised to help pay for higher advertising costs. Consumers should develop a proper sense of quality awareness. They buy the quality that suits their needs and pay the prices that they can afford. 2.2.2 Implications on the Industry (A) Business Responsibility The apparel industry produces garments for consumers to choose from. Apart from making profit, they have to take up some social responsibilities and business ethics for the benefits of individual consumers, society and the environment that we are living in. Before the 70s of the 20th century, consumer complaints about faulty products and poor services were often ignored by retailers. In the 70s, several factors such as better education, the establishment of the Consumer Council and the introduction of legislation give rise to local consumerism in Hong Kong. Today, manufacturers have to put more effort on quality control and product testing. Retailers have to make sure the product information provided is accurate and advertisements should be without misleading content. In order to listen to and entertain complaints, many large retailers establish their own Customer Service Counters to handle complaints from customers. (B) Providing Truthful Information on Products It is the responsibility of suppliers to give clear description of the products in order to assist consumers to make purchasing choices. In some countries such as USA, laws were passed to enact the truthful labeling of clothing. This has encouraged ethical practices to protect consumers against deceptive labeling and advertising after the US Government consulted the textile industry, apparel manufacturing industry, apparel care industry, apparel retailers and consumers. Attaching labels with true information helps encourage better quality, product safety, reliable services and honest 49 advertising. The following is the basic information often included in garment label description: Identity of producers Brand labels must be attached. Besides, the registration number (RN number) of manufacturers must be given. Country of origin The countries where the items are assembled must be stated. Fibre contents The generic names of fibres must be listed. The ingredients must be presented by percentage. Care requirements Clear and complete instructions and warnings about care and maintenance of the item must be attached on garments. Size Size and certain dimensions of garments must be given. (C) Product Safety Responsibility It is also the responsibility of suppliers to ensure the apparel products are safe to consumers under normal use. In USA, sales of highly flammable fabrics and wearing apparel are prohibited. Higher standards are set for children’s sleepwear, underwear and dresses. Other safety responsibilities are concerned with fibres and finishes developed from chemicals that might irritate the skins or eyes. Some might give off unpleasant odors or cause allergies and even cancers. Another safety concern is related to the physical injury of children. It is the producers’ responsibility to make sure no inappropriate designs and trimmings are applied on garments. Small buttons detached from garments may clog the throat of babies while drawstrings at the neck area may tie the neck of children. Responsible suppliers usually test samples of the products in testing laboratory before putting them on the market. 50 (D) Labour Rights Responsibility Although consumers demand reasonable price for quality goods, it is the responsibility of suppliers not to exploit labours for lowering the production cost. Consumer groups exert pressures to apparel retailers, requiring them to ensure the garments are not produced in sweat shops. Major concerns also include employment of child labour, forced labours, working conditions, discrimination and freedom to organise union to protect their own rights. (E) Environmental Concerns Industrialisation without care about the living environment produces pollution. In recent years, governments of some countries begin to have longer-sight on sustainability development and take measures to protect the environment. Beside compliance to legal requirements, many large apparel firms also begin to be aware of negative public perception that the fashion industry is an industry that encourages wastage. In recent years, some large apparel companies focus environmental responsibility in all phases of the product use cycle. They promote sustainable (green) design of products, which encompasses the concept that the creation, use and discarding of product should not cause harm to the ecosystem. Sustainable design includes the following efforts: Use of naturally grown fibres such as cotton and ramie Use of humanely sheared, free-range sheep Application of yarn blended for user comfort and compostability Use of environmental compatible dyes and chemicals Elimination of pollutants and toxic vapors during textiles manufacturing Use of recycled components Reuse of post-consumer or biodegradable products Eco-labelling Eco-labelling is a symbol that is stuck on a product. The symbol shows that the product is safe to be use, has met the quality standard and environmental requirement. Information commonly found on eco-labels is as follows: 51 Recyclable Recycled Recycled content Ozone friendly Environmentally friendly “Eco-safe” Environmentally safe Degradable Photodegradable Biodegradable No animal testing Source reduction Refillable Compostable Eco-labelling is a set of labels that is still under developing. Many countries have their international recongised eco-labelling system. There are no common statutory criteria for all systems to identify the authenticity of the environmentally friendly product. 2.2.3 Implications on Society (A) The Role of the Government A government regulates business in the context of competition and safety, provides information to consumers and ensures the sustainable development of a society. To protect the safety of consumers, the Hong Kong Government has legislated laws concerning the rights and interests of consumers. The purposes of these legal tools are to protect consumers from fraudulent and unfair trading practices and eliminate unsafe goods from the market. After years of study, the Hong Kong Government has introduced ordinances to control the quality of several types of product which includes: Toys and children ‘s products safety Electrical appliances Consumer goods Foods Drugs 52 In Hong Kong, retailers engaged in fraudulent or unfair business practices will risk being prosecuted by the Customers and Excise Department. An example is to sell fake and counterfeit products of famous brands. Fake goods infringe the intellectual property of the original brands and cause much damage to the reputation and profit of designers and companies. (B) Consumers Rights The Consumer Council of Hong Kong is also involved in the protection and promotion of consumer interests. Activities promoting consumer rights and interests include mediating in consumer disputes, giving consumers access to legal remedies, conducting product testing and studying consumer-related issues, making suggestions to the government for consumer legislation, disseminating information and educating consumers. With the presence of the Consumer Council and its activities protecting consumer interests, it is evident that more and more businesses care about the rights and interest of consumers. One aspect of the responsibilities of Consumer Council is the education of consumers. They set out guidelines to consumers concerning what they their rights and responsibilities are in the marketplace. Rights Description Implication on Clothing The right to satisfaction of basic needs To have access to basic, essential goods and services: adequate food, clothing, shelter, healthy care, education, public utilities, clean water and sanitation. Sufficient apparel supply in the market. Minimum restriction on imported apparel goods. The right to safety To be protected against products, production processes and services that are hazardous to health or life. Personal data and privacy should be respected and protected. People harmed by dangerous products have the right to charge the manufacturer and ask for compensation. Harmful materials should not be used on apparels. 53 Rights Description Implication on Clothing The right to be informed To be given the facts needed to make an informed choice and to be protected against dishonest or misleading advertising and labeling information to consumers such as product specification, place of origin, safety warnings, price, mode of payment, data of quality assurance, description of after-sale services, warranty, ingredient, nutritional facts, etc. The function of the products is not exaggerated, no deficiency is disguised, have appropriate instruction for use and safety warning. Apparels products should have sufficient information on labels and packaging including price, brand, country of origin, fibre content, care and warnings. Sellers should also clearly define the warranty and period of goods return. The right to choose An adequate supply of products and services in the market for consumer to choose. Free competition in the market with no monopoly. Consumers should be have the right of free choice, able to buy the products and services needed in a reasonable price, not affected by the anti-competitive behaviour, illegal and unreasonable practices of businessman. A range of clothing and related services offered at competitive prices with an assurance of satisfactory quality. The right to be heard To have consumer interests represented in the policy making process of government, trade, professional and industry associations, where the making and execution of those policies will have an impact on the Customer services should be set up by apparel retailers. Channels of complaint should be sufficient. Legislation should protect the rights of consumers. 54 Rights Description Implication on Clothing supply of goods and services to consumers. The right to redress To receive a fair settlement of just claims including compensation for misrepresentation, shoddy goods or unsatisfactory services. The Consumer Council and mass media should play an active role. The right to consumer education To acquire knowledge and skills The Consumer Council and needed to make informed, schools should play an active confident choices on goods and role. services while being aware of the basic consumer rights and responsibilities and how to act on them. The right to a health and sustainable environment Consumers can ask for Apparel suppliers should pollution free, safe and healthy have social and life and working environment. environmental responsibility. Sustainable principles are applied during the designing, manufacturing and selling of the product, e.g. energy saving, environmental friendly. Consumer responsibilities, as advised by the Consumer Council, are: Keeping informed as best as possible Exercising due care when making decisions in the marketplace Considering the detrimental consequences that may arise from ill-considered decisions Honoring reasonable obligations arising from the decision (C) Safety and Health Concern Unlike some consumer products such as toys, foods and drugs, clothing has not been received much concern in terms of product safety in Hong Kong. Most people do not treat the safety and health of clothing as a top priority. Most sellers do not provide sufficient information on clothing products concerning their potential safety and health 55 hazards. When consumers suffer from such hazards, they can only sue for compensation by civil law. Beyond that, there is no other legislation to protect consumers from product safety. Although there is no strict regulation on product safety in Hong Kong, the general principle is that apparel products should not pose any danger to the health and safety of consumers in any shapes or forms. Broadly speaking, there are three major sources of risk to consumers with regard to product usage: Physical injury arising from deficient structure, construction, strength or other mechanical and physical properties of products Harmful or toxic chemical substances contained in products that will pose health hazards Physical damage arising from the flammability of products The following are some examples of health and safety concern on apparel products in foreign countries: Azo dyes applied on garments would cause skin carcinogen amines Some dispersion dyes would cause allergies in human beings Children's nightwear should be inflammable The hood of a child's outer garment should not be designed to be secured by means of cords drawn through the material The usual action that apparel suppliers can take is product recall or return. In the case of any consumers being injured, he/she has the right to claim the supplier by law. It is a social responsibility for individual company to make sure the creation of any health hazards by the products to consumers does not exist before the products are introduced to the marketplace. (D) Sustainability Development The Council of Sustainable Development is set up to promote sustainability in Hong Kong. Sustainable development requires a full integration of the entire economic and social development to conserve the environment. Sustainable development, according to the World Commission on Environment and Development, is: 56 "Development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs." ("Our Common Future", 1987) Sustainable development for Hong Kong means: Finding ways to increase prosperity and improve the quality of life while reducing overall pollution and wastage Meeting one’s own needs and aspirations without doing damage to the prospects of future generations Reducing environmental burden being put on neighbours and helping to preserve common resources Consumers are encouraged to select apparel products which:are environmentally friendly and do not cause harm to the environment can be repaired, upgraded, recycled or refilled are with efficiency in the use of energy do not generate unacceptable levels of waste allow individuals to observe the correct separation requirements for the categorisation of used products to be placed in relevant waste disposal bins accordingly Many charity organisations also promote recycling of apparels by putting old clothes collection boxes in streets of different regions to collect used apparel items. (E) Protection of Intellectual Property The government also covers the protection of apparel industry, an industry that puts a lot of effort in designing and creating products. They own the intellectual property. Intellectual property is the name commonly given to a group of separate intangible property rights. These include trade marks, patents, copyright, designs, plant varieties and the layout design of integrated circuits. Respecting intellectual property is important in our society. The brand-name logos on clothes like Tee-shirts, articles contained in newspapers, TV programs, pop songs, cinema films and fashion design all have a strong connection with intellectual property. Hong Kong has intellectual Property laws that reach the highest standards of intellectual property protection. However, there is still a flood of fake products in the market and this situation harms the designers and producers who design and produce 57 with originality. It is the responsibility of the Customs and Excise Department to fight against this illegal act. Most importantly, consumers should also be aware of not encouraging these illegal acts in clothing selection. 58 Not for Sale The copyright of the materials in this booklet belongs to the Education Bureau. The materials can be used by schools only for educational purpose. Prior written permission of the Education Bureau must be sought for other commercial uses. 59 60