“A Little Piece of the Ocean”
No Plan = No success
Vision, Space, Budget & Time: It is these 4 factors that will govern every decision
from here on in.
• Vision: It is your vision you are creating, if you don’t have one, form one. Start simple and grow
your vision, be flexible and realistic. Consider the following marine aquariums…
o A Fish Only With Live Rock tank (FOWLR tank) is a stepping stone to the reef tank. The
fish are the focus but with added live rock, a basic element of the reef tank. The live rock
acts as part of the filtration system explained in greater detail later on.
o A Reef tank is a more challenging marine aquarium, stocked primarily with corals and other
invertebrates. A couple of reef safe fish not prone to disease may be added for more
animation, along with some cleaner shrimp and other clean up critters.
o A Mixed tank is the most challenging and costly marine aquarium. This set up is only
recommended for the experienced hobbyist. It is a matter of when not if, for a parasitic
disease to strike your fish, and when it does happen you cannot treat with copper when you
have corals or other invertebrates inside the reef tank. An emergency quarantine tank must
also be run.
• Space: Ensure the physical space you have picked in your home for your tank will support the
tanks weight (approx 10lbs per gallon). You will require appropriate electrical outlets, a reasonably
close water source and drain and not too close to sun lit window. You will want room to work
around the tank sides and front, consider additional room at the rear for sumps and other tank
equipment if required or selected.
• Budget: Set a budget range that you can live with, allow 25% buffer for unseen costs, or
equipment upgrades.
o The FOWLR tank budget should focus on the biggest tank/sump you can afford and quality
filtration. A rule of thumb; initially 1” of fish / 4 gallons may be placed in the aquarium, which
can be doubled after 6-12 months. A 65 gallon mature tank with 20 gallon sump can house
approx 35” of fish.
o Reef tank budget should focus on the lighting and live rock.
• Time:
o The first ingredient is patience, do not rush the set up, the hobby is long with lots to learn,
take your time, and enjoy the journey.
o A beginner should plan on 5 to 10 minutes a day, 1 hour a week and, 2 hours once a month
after set up is completed. This will ensure feeding and required maintenance is performed.
There are many time saving components available, but learn the long way first.
The Basics
The main components of a marine aquarium with basic Info…
1. Tank, Stand, Sump, Pumps…
1.1. Tank: Decide on the size of tank, the smaller the tank the more difficult to control water
parameters and quality. Consider the use of a sump to increase water volume, especially on
smaller tanks.
1 1.1.1. Water is best supplied to the sump through a drilled tank, but an overflow box may also
be used on a non drilled tank.
1.1.2. A rule of thumb; initially 1” of fish / 4 gallons may be placed in the aquarium, which can
be doubled after 6-12 months (a mature tank). A 45 gallon mature tank with 30 gallon sump
can house approx 35” of fish.
1.2. Stand: Pending the sump decision now or as a later add on choose an approved aquarium
stand that will work with the setup you have chosen. Not all stands will accept a sump.
1.3. Sumps: Are great to increase water volume, hide pumps, skimmers, and heaters. There
are different type of sump set ups that become part of the filtration…
1.3.1. The wet dry filter/sump: Is used for aquariums with a high bio load. Primarily a FO
aquarium no live rock but can be beneficial to a FOWLR. The tank drain water is dripped
over a media like bioballs allowing bacteria to receive maximum oxygen to grow and
break down biowaste.
1.3.2. The Refugium Sump: A popular sump for the reef tank. This sump may use a
shallow or deep sand bed, intense lighting to grow certain plants/algae that help control
excess nutrients that may hinder the growth of corals in the main aquarium. The refugium
is a great place for growing and storing copepods a food source for many marine
inhabitants. A protein skimmer is also used.
1.3.3.
The Berlin Method: This sump is ideal for the FOWLR and reef applications where
utilization of a large protein skimmer is imperative. The expansive sump chambers allow
for placement of a large protein skimmer and a constant water level.
1.4. Pumps: A marine tank requires the water to move… a lot. A rule of thumb is to pump a
minimum of 10 times the tank’s water volume every hour (a 90 gallon tank = 900gph), and 20
gallons per hour is better! Think about how much ocean water is available to these critters in
the wild. Usually a combination of pumps accomplish this best...
1.4.1. If a sump is used then a return pump is also used and it must be spec’d out to match
the flow capacity of your tanks drain system (A 1” drain drains at about 750GPH). This
pump adds to your total water turn over for you tank.
1.4.2. Additional pumps (power heads or circulation pumps) are added inside the tank to
increase the water turn over, and eliminate dead spots. Aim pumps at different areas to
remove all dead spots. Do not create a constant current or flow within the tank.
1.4.3. A wave maker may also be used to create erratic water currents and flows, however
only some circulation pumps are suitable for a wave maker.
2. Lighting; before buying any lighting you must have decided what you are going to put in the
tank (Fish or Corals). Corals require much more intense lighting that fish alone. There is no
substitution for good lighting for the reef tank. The tank size and coral types, are also important
factors before purchasing the lighting. There are so many variables to consider. Hard corals and
deep tanks need metal halides or high quality Reef LED lights, shallow tanks and soft corals,
anemones and live rock can use T5HO, LEDs, or power compact type fluorescent lights. Consult
our aquatics staff to get the right light to support your reef tank within your budget.
3. Filtration; Biological, Chemical and Mechanical.
3.1. Biological; Live Rock (LR) is your biological filter.
3.1.1. LR is a non living mineral matrix with an abundant of living organisms on, in and
amongst it. This foundation of the marine tank and is the second most important purchase
2 in a reef tank. LR provides Decoration, Food Source, Filtration, Habitat, Stress Reducer,
Mediator of water quality, and improves the success of keeping captive marine life.
3.1.2. Approx 1 to 1.75lbs / gallon is required, however not all your rock needs to be
purchased at one time. You can start off with about ½ the amount you need and as you
add fish and / or corals purchase additional rock at the same time.
3.1.3. Live rock needs light and needs to be handled carefully to preserve the live forms
within, keep it warm and moist with sea water while out of the tank.
3.1.4. Uncured live rock needs about 3-5 weeks of cycle time to colonize the rock with bacteria
to create a biological filter (the nitrate cycle). Use Seachem Stability along with 1-2 fish to
start the cycle. It should be quarantined about 2-4 weeks for observation, stabilization.
Uncured rock may smell foul and of decay, and will create a nitrite spike when put into the
tank.
3.1.5. Cured Live rock is already colonized with healthy organisms and smells of the sea. A
slight nitrate spike may occur when introduced into the tank if the rock has been out of the
water for a while.
3.1.6. After the nitrogen cycle is complete add LR in small quantities at a time. (About 10% of
total)
3.1.7. Most of the time Creatures Live Rock is well cured, be sure to ask.
3.2. Chemical; a system to remove dissolved organic compounds and impurities.
3.2.1. The Protein skimmer is one of the most important filtration investments, they remove
organics before they have had a chance to degrade, accumulate, and cause an increase in
nitrate and reduction in alkalinity. (Also see Water Quality – Organics)
3.2.2. They are a must when dosing with liquid calcium supplements.
3.2.3. Skimmers will increase the time between water changes, saving you time and money.
3.2.4. In addition to removing undesirable water and contamination, protein skimmers also
increase oxygen levels and the redox potential of water (also see Water Chemistry –
Temperature)
3.2.5. Protein skimmers along with anaerobic zones within the live rock core and water
changes all remove nitrates from the aquarium.
3.2.6. Turn off the skimmer when medicating fish.
3.2.7. Carbon: may be used continually in a FO or FOWLR tanks but only use intermittently in
a reef or mixed tank.. Extended use will remove beneficial trace elements that that corals
need. Always change out your carbon every 30 days at most or as soon as water is looking
a bit dingy, as once it has reached its capacity it will rapidly shed its load back into the tank.
(also see Water Quality – Organics).
3.2.8. Skimmer use and or Activated Carbon use will require supplementation of iodide and
trace elements in the reef tank or with a tank with invertebrates.
3.3. Mechanical a system to clarify water and is accomplished by a mechanical filter such
as the following:
3.3.1. Filter socks in the sump
3.3.2. Filter media in the sump
3.3.3. A canister filter with filter media
3.3.4. Hang on the Tank (HOT) or Hang on Back (HOB) filter with filter media.
3 4. Sand Substrate: The sand bed will house many life forms and helps maintain a desired PH
level. Quality sand is contains ground aragonite (naturally occurring crystal calcium carbonate)
which comes in many grain sizes from sugar size to chunks. Sand beds can be deep or shallow.
4.1. Grain size is a personal preference, unless you are choosing fish that live in or on the sand
bed or if you choose a deep sand bed (DSB). In these cases certain grain size is required.
4.2. Shallow sand beds, can and should be cleaned with a gravel bed cleaner.
4.3. Deep sand beds (4 to 6”) of sugar size (0.5 to 1mm) sand used to house many life forms
from worms to both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. A new DSB must never be disturbed, a fully
mature healthy DSB can be disturbed but there is really no need as the live forms will turn the
sand over automatically. The biggest benefit is no nitrates, the anaerobic bacteria consumes the
nitrates and coverts to a harmless nitrogen gas which bubbles to the surface. They may best
be left for advanced marine aquarists.
5. Required Accessories.
5.1. Heaters: Use 2 heaters at ½ the required wattage. If either fails off the other will supply
some heat. If either fail on there is not enough power to overheat and cook your livestock.
5.2. Thermometer: Floating or magnetic type are easy to reach and keep clean.
5.3. Test Kit; A basic test kit can be very useful in setting and maintaining your aquarium.
5.4. Hydrometer or Refractomer: To test your waters salinity.
5.5. Gravel vacuum; To clean the gravel and remove water for water changes.
6. Optional and Advanced Accessories.
6.1. Water treatment equipment:
6.1.1. RO/DI units: If affordable will supply your marine water with the purest water available.
6.1.2. Ultra violet sterilizers; Can be quite beneficial in a mixed tank as the special frequency
of the light can penetrate the walls of disease organism and destroy them. Replace bulbs
annually or as directed.
6.1.3. Ozinators: Can also be useful with a mixed aquarium where disease prevention is
critical. Feeds into the Skimmer to breakdown larger proteins, use with a controller.
6.2. Dosing System: A dosing system can provide a very stable marine tank, as they can be
programmed to automatically add your supplements and top up your water. A 3 channel can use
1 channel for the DKH, and the 2nd for all other additives required premeasured and mixed
together and the 3rd channel for topping up evaporated water.
6.3. Media Reactor: These are simple canisters that various types of media such as a
phosphate remover, or activated carbon, bio pellets or what ever you need to flow water over.
6.4. Calcium Reactor: A calcium reactor is an efficient method to supply calcium to a reef
aquarium. Pressurized co2 is added to the calcium reactor to release calcium carbonate. These
are generally used with a PH controller, which will completely automate the addition of calcium
to the aquarium.
6.5. Controllers: Electronic devises that control different components of your tank such as
heaters, pumps, lights, media reactors etc. Controllers basically automate most functions you
normally perform in maintaining your marine aquarium.
7. Additives and Supplements.
7.1. Additives:
7.1.1. Marine Salt; A must for making salt water with all the elements needed. (Instant Ocean)
4 7.1.2. Dechlorinators, is a additive to remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia (Seachem’s
Prime, Alpha).
7.1.3. Nitrifying bacteria; A supplement to speed up tank cycling thru the addition of nitrifying
bacteria (Seachem’s Stability )
7.1.4. Supplements: Most supplements are available in liquid and powder forms.
7.1.4.1. See water chemistry basics.
Water Chemistry basics;
1. Temp of Water: Tested in degrees of centigrade or Fahrenheit via thermometer.
1.1.
The temp range in a reef tank is 70-85F - Room temp is 70F.
1.2.
Aim for 75F (ideal without skimmer), the amount of dissolved oxygen that water can hold
drops significantly at higher temperatures. Adjustments should be made slowly.
1.3. Aim for 80F (ideal with skimmer), the skimmer will introduce oxygen into the water. This
higher temp will accelerate coral growth do not exceed 83F.
1.4. Keep temp stable, do not allow fluctuations even within the range, and watch summer
months. Always adjust slowly approx 1 degree a weeks.
2. Salinity - (Saltiness): measured in specific gravity, with a hydrometer.
2.1.
2.2.
2.3.
2.4.
Pure water is 1.000 at room temp.
Range of a reef tank should be 1.022 to 1.030 at 75F.
Aim for 1.025 (the low to mid end of the scale),as dissolved oxygen is reduced as the salt
content rises. As water evaporates the tank water becomes saltier as only pure water
evaporates, increasing thee specific gravity in remaining tank water.
Use only salt intended for its purpose, do not use table or pickling salt aquarium.
3. PH of the water: (Per Hydrogen) a measure of acidity on a scale of 0 to 14. Acid is 0,
neutral is 7, Base is 14. Ph can be measured with a test strip, kit or meter.
3.1. Range of reef tank is 8.0 to 8.4
3.2.
Aim for 8.2, Adjustments should be made slowly.
3.3.
Ph is controlled by dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2), as CO2 rises ph drops (the water
becomes more acidic), and vice versa.
3.4.
Maintaining good water circulation, will result in good gas exchange at the surface in turn
will help keep CO2 low and your PH up.
4. Alkalinity: waters ability to resist PH change/fluctuations.
4.1.
Measured with a test kit in carbonate hardness known as DKH or meq/L
(milliequivalent/Liter).
4.2. Range in the reef tank 6-10 DKH or 2.1 to 3.6 meq/L.
4.3.
Symbiotic algae (zooxanthella) uses CO2 in the day during photosynthesis, but at night this
stops. The result is CO2 fluctuations, and if DKH is low PH fluctuations.
4.4. Aim for a DKH level of 10 in your reef tank to ensure stable ph levels.
4.5.
Adjust by adding a must have supplement called DKH.
5. Essential elements: We recommend and use Seachem and Tailored Aquatics
additives.
5 5.1.
Calcium is the most abundant element, and is a necessity for the coral reef tank, the corals
calcium carbonate skeleton is made from it.
5.1.1.
Range is about 375 to 475 mg per liter
5.1.2.
Maintain your tank at the high end of the range, 475 mg per liter.
5.1.3.
Calcium must be added to the reef tank in one of the following 3 methods, your reef
salt alone is not adequate.
5.1.4.
Liquid Calcium supplement added manually every week or automatically daily with a
dosing pump. This method requires a protein skimmer to remove the accumulations of the
dissolved organics the calcium was once bound to.
5.1.5.
Kalkwasser or lime water, a dry calcium hydroxide added to fresh water. When used
correctly it maintains desirable high PH and DKH levels
5.1.6.
Calcium Reactor, a device that adds calcium to the aquarium. Pressurized CO2 is
injected into aragonite media within the reactor releasing dissolved calcium carbonate and
Strontium.
5.2. Magnesium: its primary importance is its interaction with calcium and alkalinity balance,
and are always supersaturated with calcium carbonate. That is, the solution's calcium and
carbonate levels exceed the amount that the water can hold at equilibrium. Magnesium allows
this to occur.
5.2.1.
5.2.2.
Range: 1250-1700 ppm.
Aim for 1300 ppm.
5.2.3.
1400 – 1700 ppm can control algae growth.
5.3. Strontium: is used in the production of the coral skeletons
5.3.1.
Range: 8 - 10mg per liter
5.3.2.
Testing is difficult; follow the manufactures dosing recommendations carefully.
5.3.3.
5.3.4.
Strontium is available as a supplement.
Not required if using a calcium reactor.
5.4.
Iodine: only use in the form iodide, made for reef tanks. Tested with a kit.
5.4.1.
Range is 30to 90 60 parts per billion (PPB).
5.4.2.
Aim for 60 parts per billion (PPB)
5.4.3.
Iodine is used by corals to neutralize destructive forms of oxygen produced by the
corals during photosynthesis, and for the synthesis of pigments, which allow them to
adapt to varying light conditions and provide their tissue with protection from UV
radiation.
5.4.4.
Invertebrates with exoskeletons (primarily shrimp and crabs in the aquarium)
incorporate iodine in to exoskeletons and require iodine for molting and forming new
exoskeletons as they grow.
5.4.5.
Follow manufactures dosing instructions carefully, do not overdose.
5.5. Trace elements: are found in quality salt mixes, and are not practical to test.
5.5.1.
Regular water changes with a quality salt mix will ensure trace elements are
maintained.
5.5.2.
Protein Skimmers extend water changes and will remove trace elements; therefore
Trace elements are also available as an additive.
6 WATER QUALITY
What is it?
Most often heard from marine aquarists: ‘My water quality is good; Ammonia = 0; Nitrites = 0; Nitrates
are less than 10; phosphates below 0.01; pH, calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium in range;
Temperature in range; and Specific Gravity in range. Those test results would indicate a water problem
but those test results do not indicate the water quality is good.
These are the things that can be measured by available test kits, equipment, and devices. They are
important but far from all inclusive. These conditions are just a tip of the iceberg of what is in the
captive marine aquarium water system.
Unwanted impurities
1. Ammonia: A toxic compound produced by decaying waste as well secreted fro the gills
of fish. Some causes or source of Ammonia are improper tank cycling, too many fish
added at once, improper cleaning of the filter and or tank (removal of all beneficial
bacteria), excessive feeding, filter failure, lack of maintenance, use of some medicines and
contaminated source water (tap water).
1.1.
The toxic level is dependant on water temp and ph (Ph has the bigger effect). Test kits test
for total ammonia (both non toxic and toxic) .The higher the PH and Temp the more toxic
ammonia is available in the water.
1.1.1.
Fresh water tank - 1ppm NO3 @ 78Degress at 7.0PH is non toxic
1.1.2.
Marine Tank - 1ppm NO3 @ 78Degress at 8.2PH is highly toxic
1.2. Signs: Gasping for air at surface, or just laying on the bottom with red gills.
1.3.
Perform a water change and always treat tap water with a water conditioner for Ammonia
removal (Prime). It temporarily binds ammonia until the bacteria can convert it to nitrites.
Watch for PH crash with some conditioners, use a buffer.
1.4.
A healthy tank should have 0ppm of ammonia. The Ammonia is consumed and converted
to Nitrate by Bacteria called as Nitrosomonas, these live in your filter media and gravel beds.
2. Nitrites: A less toxic compound than Ammonia but still deadly. Anytime you have an
Ammonia spike a Nitrite spike will follow.
2.1.
A healthy tank should have 0ppm of Nitrites. Nitrobacter bacteria converts Nitrite to the
least toxic compound Nitrate.
3. Nitrates: Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial
water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. A safe range for a FOWLR
is 10- 40PPM and less than 1ppm in a Reef Tank. A byproduct of biologic filtration, left over
food and in some cases in untreated tap water.
3.1. A build up of nitrates can cause…
3.1.1.
An algae bloom
3.1.2.
Stress the fish (Organs work harder)
3.1.3.
Stress some stoney corals, anenomes and inverts
3.2.
Controlling / Removing Nitrates can be accomplished by…
7 3.2.1.
Water changes
3.2.2.
3.2.3.
Denitrifying anaerobic bacteria found in deep sand beds and live rock,
A refugium with mangroves or Macro Algae that feeds on Nitrate.
3.2.4.
Denitrifying media like Purigen from Seachem.
3.2.5.
Carbon Dosing: Adding organic carbon to promote the growth of certain bacteria in
your water. As these bacteria grow, they will consume nitrates and phosphates from the
water. Once they grow large enough, the skimmer will remove these bacteria along with
all of the nitrate and phosphates that was consumed. (Tailored Aquatics Nitrate destroyer)
3.2.6.
Bio Pellets - Bio-Activated Polymer is a pelleted nitrate and phosphate reducing filter
media designed for use in fluidized reactors. Made from 100% pure carbon polymer, it
optimizes water quality and reduces maintenance by supporting the growth of denitrifying
bacteria. Ideal for freshwater, saltwater and reef applications.
4. Phosphates: interfere with the coral skeleton production and can cause separation of
the flesh from the skeleton. Keep phosphates under 0.1ppm. Tap water may have high
levels of phosphate.
4.1.
Fish food also contains phosphates, therefore the more fish the more food, the more
phosphates.
4.2.
Removal of Phosphates is accomplished using a media reactor and phosphate removers
(Seachem Phosguard, Two Little Fishes Phosban) or liquid phosphate destroyer (Tailored
Aquatics).
5. ORGANICS: This component of the marine aquarium water is the most common
untested ‘pollutant.’ High levels of these organics consume oxygen and produce carbon
dioxide causing swings in the pH, encourage microbial growths (e.g., diatoms, bacteria,
micro algae, etc.).which can interfere with the health and/or metabolism of some marine life
forms.
5.1.
The source; invertebrates, corals, fishes, pods, benthic creatures, microbes, live rock
(cured and uncured), and all aquarium marine life. It is added to the aquarium by the aquarist
through feeding and other additives.
5.2. Signs of high organics include: a yellow tint to the water, a surface (oily) sheen, bubbles
linger rather than 'pop', cloudy water (with bacteria), swings in pH, fish breathing faster than
normal, and strange behavior of fishes, including cloudy eye.
5.3. Keep organics to a minimum to prevent bacterial blooms. Routinely testing of PH showing
PH swings would indicate the possibility of there being a higher-than-desired concentration of
organics.
5.4.
The organic quality controls are the use of a protein skimmer, activated carbon, and water
changes.
5.4.1.
The Protein Skimmer:
5.4.1.1. A rule of thumb when a skimmer does not have a rating is one that will process
about 1.5 times the volume of water in the entire marine system, every hour. Get the
biggest and best skimmer you can afford.
5.4.1.2. Keep is clean and running efficiently. Daily cleaning is recommended.
5.4.1.3. The protein skimmer does not remove all proteins from salt water, there are
certain kinds of organics that are not efficiently removed by the protein skimmer
process (several of the fatty acid and lipid organics).
8 5.4.1.4. Use activated carbon, to remove those other organics that are not efficiently
removed by the skimmer. Should everyone use a skimmer and activated carbon?
No. Keep reading.
5.4.2.
Activated Carbon:
5.4.2.1. Use about 1 lb of dry carbon for every 100 gallons of total water. Use constantly
for about 10 to 14 days (14 in low bio load system; 10 in high bio load systems).
Then remove it and discard it. Leave the system without carbon for another 10 to 14
days, then put fresh carbon back in. Continue this cycle. The reason for this is that
old carbon stops adsorbing significant quantities of organics and just continues to
remove trace elements. With the use of a skimmer, the carbon is capturing organics
for up to 2 weeks and then slows down to the point where about the only things being
removed from the water are trace elements. Also, the carbon doesn't have to be
constantly there to provide the needed export.
5.4.2.2. Water changes:
5.4.2.2.1.
Water changes can correct a world of wrongs. Diligently performing water
changes is an important means to export excess organics that the other means
leave behind. How often depends on the bio load and the total filtration your are
using.
5.4.3.
Skimers and Carbon Needed? : No. reed on…
5.4.3.1. A system with a low bio load can probably get away with either a skimmer or
carbon. A real low bio load system (one with no ammonia-nitrogen waste producers like in a reef-only system) may not need either but the heavy bio-load system, like in
a FOWLR system, should use both organic controls.
5.4.3.2. If frequent, large water changes are performed, this is a fine alternative to fast
export of organics and a skimmer and carbon may not be needed at all.
5.4.3.3. A skimmer is certainly not required immediately and water changes are not free.
We do recommend using a quality skimmer.
6. POISONS: This is the second largest untested pollutant, which includes oxidizing metal
(rusting) equipment and connections, glue, uncured or improperly cured resins,
decorations, rocks (trapped metals, etc.), unusual substrates, foods (some contain
pollutants), fumes and mists (paints, chemical household cleaners, cooking, etc.), and stuff
added that don't belong in the water
6.1.
Signs: Water clarity; microbe activity; live stock reactions (from signs of stress, irritations,
diseases, to death); and coloration about the most often encountered signs.
6.2.
The source: Finding the source and type of pollutant requires a lot of detective work.
Fluctuating and unexpected pH readings can indicate a pollutant that affects the buffering
ability or directly affects the pH of the water. The most common, source water quality. An RO
system damaged membrane. Checking the water source is important, especially before taking
the recommended (see below) corrective action.
6.3. The best thing to do when there is a chance of a poisoning, is perform a very large water
change. Over 60% of the entire system water needs replacing with newly prepared salt water
that is not polluted. Special attention needs to be given that the water change is done
properly.
7. MATURING AQUARIUM: A new aquarium is going through many changes (chemical
and biological) that are not measured by test kits. Sometimes the problem with a particular
marine life form is that the aquarium hasn’t settled down.
9 7.1.
Signs: include microbe activities, like ‘brown algae,’ slimes, red algae, etc. Fish, corals, and
sessile invertebrates should not be added to a system showing any of these signs of
immaturity.
7.2.
The fix is simple. Give it time and patience. Sort out the source of excess nitrates, silicates,
and/or phosphates, and give the system time to settle.
8. BALANCE: The ratio between calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. These
chemistries/ingredients don’t just have to be within a certain range, they must be balanced.
The pH of the system is maintained by this balance Also, carbonate-based lifeforms like
snails, some corals, and the coralline algae are dependent upon the proper balance of
these components.
8.1.
Just because the marine system is FOWLR doesn't mean the aquarist can ignore the need
for chemical balance.
8.2. To over simplify the concept -- It is the goal to keep enough carbonates, calcium and
magnesium dissolved in the water at the right pH, so that dependent marine life can find it
easy to precipitate (take out of solution) what they need to make their calcareous shell,
skeleton, etc. On the other hand, the aquarist doesn't want the precipitation of carbonates (the
infamous milky cloud!) in the water. This requires a balance.
Although the aquarist is told to keep pH, alkalinity, magnesium, and calcium within a certain
range, it is AS IMPORTANT to keep them in balance, within that range. Following is a
balanced relationship between these three:
Calcium - - - Alkalinity - - - - Magnesium
- (ppm) - - - dKH - meq/l - - - (ppm)
410 - - - - - - 7.0 - - 2.50 - - - - 1300
414 - - - - - - 7.5 - - 2.67 - - - - 1300
417 - - - - - - 8.0 - - 2.35 - - - - 1350
421 - - - - - - 8.5 - - 3.03 - - - - 1350
425 - - - - - - 9.0 - - 3.21 - - - - 1350
428 - - - - - - 9.5 - - 3.39 - - - - 1375
432 - - - - - -10.0 - -3.57 - - - - 1375
435 - - - - - -10.5 - -3.75 - - - - 1400
439 - - - - - -11.0 - -3.92 - - - - 1400
10 8.3.
From the above if the calcium concentration isn't between 410 and 440, then the marine
system is not in balance. When the calcium is between these numbers, then there needs to be
the corresponding alkalinity. Aquarists running calcium in the 300's ppm and a (for example)
'recommended' alkalinity (between 7 and 9 dKH) have water that is out of balance and thus,
low water quality.
8.4.
An imbalanced water chemistry can cause the pH to be out of control. The pH, alkalinity,
calcium, and magnesium are all connected to one another.
8.5. An incorrect or fluctuating pH (even as little as 0.05 pH units for some fishes) causes a
great deal of stress to the fishes -- more than a shift in salinity. Further, an imbalanced water
quality can cause hardening or clumping of some substrates, precipitation of carbonates in
plumbing and pumps (thereby restricting flow), the slow grow or death of calcareous marine
life, and the wrong kinds of algae to bloom or take over.
8.6.
The fix: Simply bring these chemicals slowly back under control, however, make
adjustments V-E-R-Y slowly. Make a small adjustment, then wait 48 hours to check the
results. If necessary make another small adjustment. Wait another 48 hours to verify the
results. Make small adjustments and wait a long time for the adjustment to take effect. Check
your source water to be sure it is not contributing to any of those chemicals.
8.7.
Check the salt mix that is used to determine how it affects the balance. Few salts are
balanced. You can’t count on water changes to maintain t his balance. This is very important
and worth repeating. You can’t count on water changes to correct or maintain the balance.
8.8. Precipitated carbonates will not redissolve even when chemical balance is restored.
Plumbing, equipment, etc. need to be taken apart and manually cleaned (with a diluted
vinegar solution) to remove calcareous precipitates. Clumped or hardened substrates will
need to be removed in order to prevent oxygen and water from entering the substrate and
avoid anaerobic bacteria producing hydrogen sulfide.
Reef Tank Algae
1. The three major: algae are brown diatom algae, red slime algae and green hair algae.
Brown diatom algae: usually the first problem algae that a new reef encounters. A bloom
of brown algae often occurs soon after one introduces new live rock to a reeftank. This bloom
occurs because of the curing of the live rock introduces of silicates and nutrients.
1.1.1.
Control of brown diatom algae is relatively easy. 1) Purchase Trochus or Astraea
snails that eagerly consume the brown diatom film, they are the brown diatom cleaner
workhorses. 2) Perform regular water changes to remove any excess nutrients and
silicates from the water. 3) Get an effective protein skimmer if you have not yet, to help
with the nutrient removal. 4) Cut down light intensity or duration. 5) Use activated carbon
to help with the nutrient removal.
1.2. Red slime algae (cyanobacteria): usually breaks out on top of the substrate. There are
two main means of control for this algae. One is increased water flow in order to decrease the
stagnant areas immediately above the substrate. Two is excess nutrient control as detailed
below.
1.3. Green hair algae: the real scourge of a reeftank. This algae loves the high light and
current conditions of a thriving reef tank. Green hair algae can take advantage of any excess
1.1.
11 nutrients faster than most corals. Scrubbing of the hair algae is only a temporary measure. To
control hair algae outbreaks follow the steps below…
Reef Tank Algae Control
1. Make sure your protein skimmer is clean and working correctly and is large enough. A
malfunctioning simmer will not export nutrients from your tank and algae will take advantage of the
waste.
2. Decrease lighting during an outbreak, even down to five hours a day.
3. Stop adding any trace elements or supplements. Algae are very opportunistic and additional trace
elements or supplements will often boost growth, especially anything with iron.
4. Perform regular water changes. Regular water changes will decrease the level of wastes and
nutrients in the water immediately. Every reef tank system is unique regarding its water change
needs. One scenario may be 10-20% every three to five weeks.
5. Test your makeup water. Algae love the phosphates and nitrates often found in tap water.
Phosphate and nitrate test kits will show if your tap water is contributing to your algae problem. If
phosphate and nitrate levels are more than 0 ppm obtain an RO unit, or RO water from retail
filtered water companies.
6. Get a custodian crew of invertebrates. Trochus, Astraea and Nerite snails all help to control the
algae film in the tank. Hermit crabs help pick out hair algae. Copepods like red slime algae.
7. Introduce additional detritivores. If excess food isn't eaten, it will decay and add to the nutrients
and waste in the tank. Addition of bristle stars, bristleworms, hermit crabs, Nassarius snails and
sea cucumbers will help control the excess food that a reeftank's primary fish and invertebrates
don't consume.
8. Introduce macroalgae to the refugium if using one or even in the main tank.
8.1.
Caulerpa sertularoide, grows fast and can quickly spread in a reeftank, Caulerpa racemosa
or Grape Caulerpa has a compact growth but still grows quickly and can offer good algae
control. Pruning Caulerpa is a lot easier than scrubbing hair algae, and ensures it maintains it
color and growth rate.
8.2. Red Gracilaria macroalgae serves two purposes. It sucks up any excess nutrients and it
functions as a food source for a Yellow Tang.
9. Chemical, Medicinal and Mechanical controls.
9.1.
Poly Filter or a 100/200 micron filter on the drain to sump. These can become very dark
when it has removed wastes from the reeftank. This is a helpful feature to gauge the waste
level of the water and when the Poly Filter needs to be changed. Mostly used on a newer set
up .
9.2. Activated carbon can help remove the nutrients that nuisance algae needs.
9.3. Boyds Chemiclean (an enzymatic product) reef safe and works very well to remove this
algae.
9.4. Erythromycin (an antibiotic) can also be used but it may also kill good bacteria in the tank
as well.
10. Controlled addition of food to tank. If the tank inhabitants can handle it, feed small amounts of
food every other day or even longer intervals. Make sure the food isn't messy and spreads all over
the tank to decay. Repashy gell foods may work very well during an outbreak. Make sure the food
you're feeding is low in phosphates.
12 11. Physically remove excess algae. Sometimes, the nuisance algae growth is overwhelming for
the herbivores in the reeftank.
12. Patience and persistence are required, but the nuisance algae scourge can be controlled if the
right steps are taken.
10 Marine Fish for Beginners
(and 5 Species to Avoid)
Five Great Fish for New Aquarists: Before adding any fish, make sure you research
their needs, check that they are compatible, and fully cycle your tank.Talbot’s Damsel(Chrysiptera
talboti)
1. Talbot’s damsel (Chrysiptera talboti): Talbot’s damsel is an alternative to clownfishes and
those in the genus Dascyllus, which can be highly aggressive and territorial. This species is
extremely hardy, stays at a manageable size, and is only moderately aggressive compared to
some of its larger cousins.
1.1.
They will live a long life in captivity whether it is kept alongside noncongeners or in small
groups with its own kind. Buy them together if you wish to keep multiple fish.
1.2.
It is primarily a zooplanktivore that feeds off floating plankton in the water column, readily
accepting dried, freeze-dried, frozen, and other prepared aquarium foods for omnivores.
1.3.
This species is bold (not to be confused with aggressive) and will venture out to new
surroundings rather than act reclusive like many other smaller fish. It’s also readily available
and not overly expensive in comparison to other appropriate small beginner fish.
2. Rabbitfish (Siganus spp.) Reef aquarists with moderately sized systems often desire a
herbivorous resident to keep plant and algae growth in check.
2.1. These are hardy fish, even to start a tank, but may be nervous when 1st introduced,.
2.2.
They can be a bit aggressive especially to other rabbit fish. They may also nip at LPS
corals, eat mushroom anemones, eat through the feather duster tube.
2.3. Most specimens top out at 8 to 9 inches and grow relatively slowly in comparison to other
high-metabolism herbivorous fish.
2.4. Feeding is relatively simple as long as you consider that vegetable matter for them to
forage on is a must. Flakes and pellets with Spirulina or other types of algae as their main
ingredient or dried kelp (nori) sheets are all acceptable, supplement their diet with planktonic
meaty foods, such as mysids and krill.
2.5.
While talking about rabbitfish, it should be noted that all species have venomous spines in
the rays of their dorsal fins and should be treated with caution while handling.
2.6.
If at all possible, avoid netting these fish and instead use a bag or bucket to catch them
under water.
13 3. Chalk Bass (Serranus tortugarum) vibrantly colored fish that stay relatively small
and peacefully coexist within the rockwork of crowded reef aquaria. Fairy wrasses fit the bill, but
are more expensive. Others, such as hawkfish, are the right size and price, but ornamental
crustaceans might disappear as the fish gets bigger.
3.1.
This species is ideal for use in small reef aquaria. Chalk bass are slow to mature, and
adults rarely get larger than 3 inches. They are resistant to protozoan disease, bacterial
infections, and temporary declines in water quality.
3.2.
They are initially reclusive, but a subdued lighting scheme and a diet of finely chopped
meaty foods of marine origin will encourage them to come out into the open.
3.3.
Provided enough room, this species can be introduced simultaneously with members of its
own kind or kept solo.
4. Pink-Skunk Clownfish (Amphiprion perideraion): A compromise concerning
price point, size, and aggression is the pink-skunk clownfish (A. perideraion). This species rarely
exceeds an inch in captivity, which makes it more versatile than some of the other larger clownfish
in the trade.
4.1.
Members of this species, like many damsels, are a great prospect for those new to marine
aquariums because they will quickly acclimate to a closed environment and accept prepared
foods.
5. Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor): a smaller cousin of the Midas, the bicolor blenny
(E. bicolor). Though its appearance varies based on its collection location and diet, it is easy to
see where this blenny’s common name comes from, as it is half dull brown and half vibrant orange
in color. Bicolor blennies typically remain small and are less likely to decimate their primary food
source, algae growths, in the aquarium.
6. Comet or Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelsi): an inrediably hardy fish that
may even survive complete tank wipe out caused by parasitic infections, and rarely contract ich.
6.1. A new comet may hide for a week or two until settled.
6.2. They are very reef save, but may thin out the shrimp population.
6.3. They primarily feed on worms and small crustaceans that associate with live rock.
7. Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto): this yellow and purple fish attains a max size of “
and readily adapts to captive life in both small and large aquariums.
7.1. They like a lot of hiding places, and do best with other passive fish. If you are planning to
have more aggressive fish ensure the Gramma is in the tank first to establish a territory.
7.2. If more that one is desire added simultaneously
7.3. They are Reef safe but may prey on small shrimp. Caution they may jump out of the tank.
8. Yellowhead Jawfish ( Opistognathus aurifrons): a burrower builder that dig
with their mouths that will max out at 4”
8.1. A substrate consisting of sand, rubble and bits of shells is required at a 4” depth, with a few
flat pieces of rock.
8.2. Extreme jumpers you will need to have a lid.
8.3. Best not to keep with dottybacks, triggers or pygmy angel fish, eels, groupers or frogfish.
9. Blue Damsel / Devil (Chrysiptera cyanea): maybe the most popular fish in the
hobby. An electric blue with a short black line through its eye. Some males have a bright orange
tail, females have a clear tail with a spot at the base of the rear dorsal fin. This fish may attain a
length of 3”.
9.1. A favorite for staring up a new tank.
14 9.2.
9.3.
10.
The Devil may pick on smaller peaceful fish (cardinals, gobies and fire fish).
A male and female can be kept in a smaller tank and will readily bred, while a group can be
fine in a 55-90g tank with lots of rocks to hide within.
False Clown Fish ( Amphiprion ocellaris): yes this is Nemo. One of the best
anemone fishes that only get about 3.5” and is a welcome addition to small and large tanks.
10.1. These fish enjoy the anemones, but do not require them. (Ensure your tank will support
anemones before getting one).
10.2. These fish are best kept in pairs, and if purchased as juveniles one will transform into a
female, while the subordinate one becomes male WOW. In smaller tanks the female may
harass a male continuously.
5 Inappropriate Choices
(For the beginner)
1. Chromis species: Chromis is a large genus, comprising over 80 species, that is important
in the aquarium trade. By far, the most popular or common species seen in livestock retail outlets
worldwide is the green chromis
1.1.
Unlike other damsels, Chromis species have a much higher death rate in collection,
shipping, and acclimation. They do not recover from physical trauma, be it from aggression or
handling, as damage to their thin but sensitive scales makes them more susceptible to
infection, disease, and further bullying.
1.2. In captive setups, they are also often the first to show stress in response to environmental
issues, such as those associated with dissolved organics, temperature, and specific gravity.
2. Six-Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) is often the first species of
wrasse introduced to new aquarists. Its relatively small size, engaging personality, and voracious
appetite for aquarium pests, such as pyramidellid snails, polychaete (bristle) worms, and others,
make it a staple, but….
2.1. Unfortunately, it is a highly active predator of small benthic creatures and is indiscriminate
in its tastes.
2.2. A single wrasse can effectively decimate the desirable microcrustaceans and zooplankton
populations. This decreases the biodiversity in a reef aquarium where the aforementioned
prey are an important food source for invertebrates, both sessile and motile, as well as other
fish.
3. Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus): The species is most often employed as
a nuisance algae eater. It is particularly popular with reef aquarists because it prefers pest algae,
such as diatoms and Phaeophyta, but ignores many desirable species of macroalgae, such as
Botryocladia spp.
3.1. It is all too often employed in an aquarium that is far too small to support it with continual
growth of algae, causing the animal to starve if not target fed with appropriate food.
3.2. In regard to algae control, algae growth in itself is often not the issue but a symptom of a
larger problem, such as nutrient control. In this case, an animal resigned to algae
maintenance simply masks the underlying problem rather than correct it.
15 3.3.
Another misconception is that comb-toothed blennies will incorporate cyanobacteria (which
is mistakenly called “algae” though it is a form of bacteria) into their diet when they in fact do
not.
4. Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni): There are multiple species of
cardinal fish with attributes that make them ideal for captivity. Most species stay under 4 inches
and don’t require a large amount of swimming room, and healthy specimens readily take to
prepared food. Banggai cardinal fish (Pterapogon kauderni) is by far the most collected and
imported species in the United States. P. kauderni ships easily and is long lived, but it’s the
species’ popularity that can make it an unwise choice. P. kauderni has a small total population
size that was originally thought to be restricted to the Banggai Islands of Indonesia, hence the
common name.
4.1. Not a good choice as numbers are dwindling. Unless they are captive bred.
5. Pacific Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus): One of the most highly prized
surgeonfish,. The success rate of keeping P. hepatus in aquaria is high and with dedicated
aquarists keeping specimens for longer than a decade.
5.1. The species is inappropriate for many home aquariums due to its size and behavior,
however.
5.2.
In response to its popularity and demand, many exporters in the last decade have begun
shipping extremely small specimens, some less than an inch. These small juveniles do not
ship or acclimate to captivity as well as midsized adolescents, and to further compound the
issue.
5.3. Even worse is the higher susceptibility of P. hepatus to multiple health issues in
comparison to other available livestock, such as head-and-lateral-line erosion, ich, and other
protozoan diseases.
5.4. Diet is also a concern for this surgeonfish, which expresses much more zooplanktivorous
behavior than its relatives. Aquarists often fail to balance out its diet with a variety of meaty
and algae-based foods.
5.5. So while P. Hepatus is not an irresponsible choice in livestock or one to be avoided by all, it
should be left for hobbyists who can give this species the room and care it needs.
References :
• Creatures Aquatics staff
•
http://www.reefland.com/forum/stickies/21726-what-water-quality.html#post156151
•
Keeping Marine fish , Graham Lundegaard
•
On line Wikipedia
•
Aquarium USA Magazine 2011 annual.
•
Tropical Fish Magazine Online. http://www.tfhmagazine.com
•
Reef Keeping, an on line magazine for the marine aquarist http://www.reefkeeping.com/
16