‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫‪ 10‬ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ﺑﺮﺗﺮ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك دﻧﻴﺎ در ﺳﺎل ‪2011‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪153‬‬
‫آﺷﻨﺎﻳﻲ ﺑﺎ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ “زارا”‬
‫ﺑﺮﻧﺪ زارا ﺑﻪ ﺷﺮﻛﺖ اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎﻳﻲ ‪Inditex‬‬
‫‪ Group‬ﺗﻌﻠﻖ دارد ﻛﻪ ﻣﺎﻟﻚ ﺑﺮﻧﺪﻫﺎي دﻳﮕﺮي‬
‫از ﺟﻤﻠﻪ‪:‬‬
‫‪Massimo Dutti , Pull and Bear ,‬‬
‫‪Stradivariuos‬و ‪ Bershka‬ﻫﻢ ﻫﺴﺖ‪.‬‬
‫ﺗﻤﺎﻣﻲ اﻳﻦ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ﻫﺎ از دﻓﺘﺮ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي اﻳﻨﺪﻳﺘﻜﺲ‬
‫ﮔﺮوپ واﻗﻊ در ‪ Coruna‬در اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﺮﻳﺖ‬
‫ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮﻧﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪154‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪1‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫‪ Amancio Ortega Gaona‬ﻣﺆﺳﺲ ﮔﺮوه ‪ Inditex‬ﻣﻌﺘﻘﺪ اﺳﺖ ﻣﺸﺘﺮي ﺑﻪ‬
‫ﻟﺒﺎس ﺑﻪ ﭼﺸﻢ ﻣﻮاد داراي ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ اﻧﻘﻀﺎ ﻣﺎﻧﻨﺪ ﻣﺎﺳﺖ‪ ،‬ﻧﺎن و ﻳﺎ ﻣﺎﻫﻲ ﻧﮕﺎه ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﺪ ﻛﻪ‬
‫ﺑﺎﻳﺪ ﺑﻪ ﺳﺮﻋﺖ ﻣﺼﺮف ﺷﻮد ﻧﻪ اﻳﻨﻜﻪ در ﻗﻔﺴﻪ ﻫﺎ اﻧﺒﺎر ﮔﺮدد‪.‬‬
‫ﻟﺬا ﺑﺎﻳﺪ ﺑﺘﻮان اﻟﺒﺴﻪ را ﺑﻪ ﺻﻮرت داغ و ﺗﺎزه! ﺑﻪ ﻣﺸﺘﺮي ﺗﺤﻮﻳﻞ داد‪.‬‬
‫!‪Freshly backed clothes‬‬
‫‪ 3‬ﻓﺮﻣﻮل ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ زارا ﺑﺮاي اﻳﻦ ﻛﺎر‪:‬‬
‫‪155‬‬
‫• زﻣﺎن اﻧﺘﻈﺎر ﻛﻮﺗﺎه )‪(short lead time‬‬
‫اﻟﺒﺴﻪ ﻣﺪي ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ‬
‫• ﻛﻤﻴﺖ ﭘﺎﻳﻴﻦ )‪(low quantity‬‬
‫ﻋﺮﺿﻪ ﻛﻢ‬
‫• ﺗﻨﻮع ﻃﺮح ﺑﺎﻻ )‪(more styles‬‬
‫ﻗﺪرت اﻧﺘﺨﺎب ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ و‬
‫اﺣﺘﻤﺎل ﺑﺎﻻﺗﺮ اﺻﺎﺑﺖ‬
‫ﺑﻪ ﻫﺪف‬
‫ در ن‬
‫در ﺣﺎﻟﻲ ﻛﻪ ﻧﺎم ﻫﺎي ﻣﻌﺮوف دﻧﻴﺎي ﻣﺪ‪ ،‬ﺑﻴﻦ ‪ 4‬اﻟﻲ ‪ 12‬ﻣﺎه زﻣﺎن ﻧﻴﺎز دارﻧﺪ‬
‫ﺗﺎ ﻃﺮحﻫﺎي ﺟﺪﻳﺪﺷﺎن را ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزار ﻋﺮﺿﻪ ﻛﻨﻨﺪ‪ ،‬زارا ﺑﻴﻦ دو ﻫﻔﺘﻪ ﺗﺎ ‪ 1‬ﻣﺎه‬
‫ﻫﻤﺎن ﭘﺮوﺳﻪ را ﻃﻲ ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﺪ‪.‬‬
‫ﺑﺎ اﻳﻦ روش‪ ،‬زارا ﺳﺎﻻﻧﻪ ﺣﺪود ‪ 12000‬ﻃﺮح ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزار ﻣﺪ ﻋﺮﺿﻪ‬
‫ﻣﻲﻛﻨﺪ ﻛﻪ رﻗﻢ ﺑﻲ ﻧﻈﻴﺮي اﺳﺖ‪.‬‬
‫‪156‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪2‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ارزﻳﺎﺑﻲ دﻗﻴﻖ ﺑﺎزار‬
‫زارا ﻫﺮ روز ﮔﺰارش ﻓﺮوش اﻗﻼم ﺧﻮد را از ﺗﻤﺎم ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ﻫﺎﻳﺶ درﻳﺎﻓﺖ‬
‫ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﺪ ﺗﺎ اﻗﻼم ﭘﺮ ﻓﺮوش و ﻛﻢ ﻓﺮوش را ﺷﻨﺎﺳﺎﻳﻲ ﻛﻨﺪ‪ .‬ﻣﺪﻳﺮان ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه‬
‫ﻫﺎ و ﻓﺮوﺷﻨﺪه ﻫﺎ ﻧﻈﺮات و اﻳﺪه ﻫﺎي ﺧﻮد را ﻣﻨﺘﻘﻞ ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﻨﺪ‪.‬‬
‫ﺑﺮرﺳﻲ ﻧﺤﻮه ﭘﻮﺷﺶ و ﺗﻤﺎﻳﻼت اﻗﺸﺎر ﺗﺄﺛﻴﺮﮔﺬار ﻣﺮدم در داﻧﺸﮕﺎه ﻫﺎ‪ ،‬ﺟﺸﻦ‬
‫ﻫﺎ و ﺗﺠﻤﻌﺎت روش دﻳﮕﺮ ‪ Zara‬ﺑﺮاي ارزﻳﺎﺑﻲ ﺑﺎزار اﺳﺖ‪.‬‬
‫ﻳﻚ ﺗﻴﻢ ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ ﻗﻮي ﻣﺘﺸﻜﻞ از‬
‫ﺣﺪود ‪ 200‬ﻧﻔﺮ در‬
‫‪) Curuna‬ﺷﻤﺎل ﻏﺮﺑﻲ‬
‫اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎ( در ﻛﻞ ﻃﻮل ﺳﺎل در‬
‫ﺣﺎل ﻛﺎر و اراﺋﻪ ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎي‬
‫ﺟﺪﻳﺪﻧﺪ‪ .‬ﻫﺮ ﻃﺮاح ﺑﻪ ﻃﻮر‬
‫ﻣﺘﻮﺳﻂ ‪ 60‬ﻃﺮح در ﺳﺎل‬
‫)ﺣﺪود ‪ 1‬ﺗﺎ ‪ 2‬ﻃﺮح در ﻫﻔﺘﻪ(‬
‫اراﺋﻪ ﻣﻲ دﻫﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪157‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫اﺳﺘﺮاﺗﮋي ‪ZARA‬‬
‫ﭘﺎﺳﺨﮕﻮﻳﻲ ﺳﺮﻳﻊ ﺑﻪ روﻧﺪ ﻣﻮﺟﻮد‬
‫ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎي‬
‫اﻳﺠﺎد ﻳﻚ روﻧﺪ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ‬
‫‪158‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪3‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ در ﻧﺰدﻳﻜﻲ دﻓﺘﺮ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي‬
‫ﺑﺮ ﺧﻼف ﺑﺴﻴﺎري از ﺧﺮده ﻓﺮوﺷﺎن ﻣﻌﺘﺒﺮ‬
‫ﻣﺎﻧﻨﺪ ‪ H&M ،Gap‬و ‪ ...‬ﻛﻪ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ اﻗﻼم ﺧﻮد‬
‫را ﺑﻪ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪﻛﻨﻨﺪﮔﺎن ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎي دور )ﻋﻠﻲ‬
‫اﻟﺨﺼﻮص آﺳﻴﺎي ﺷﺮﻗﻲ( ﻣﻲ ﺳﭙﺎرﻧﺪ‪ ،‬در‬
‫ﺣﺪود ‪ %80‬اﻗﻼم ‪ Zara‬در اروﭘﺎ و در‬
‫ﻧﺰدﻳﻜﻲ اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد‪ .‬در ﺣﺪود ﻧﻴﻤﻲ‬
‫از ﻣﺤﺼﻮﻻت در ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت ﺷﺮﻛﺖ و ﻳﺎ‬
‫ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت واﺑﺴﺘﻪ ﺑﻪ آن ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻣﻲ ﮔﺮدد‪.‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪159‬‬
‫اﻧﺠﺎم ﺑﺮﺧﻲ ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت و ﺑﺮون ﺳﭙﺎري ﺑﺮﺧﻲ دﻳﮕﺮ!‬
‫ﮔﺮوه ‪ Inditex‬ﺳﺮﻣﺎﻳﻪ ﮔﺬاري ﺑﺎﻻﻳﻲ ﺑﺮ روي ﻣﺎﺷﻴﻦ آﻻت ﺑﺎ ﺗﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮژي ﺑﺎﻻ در‬
‫زﻣﻴﻨﻪ رﻧﮕﺮزي‪ ،‬ﺑﺮش و ﺗﻜﻤﻴﻞ ﻧﻤﻮده اﺳﺖ‪ .‬ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ ﺧﺎم از اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎ‪ ،‬ﺷﺮق دور‪ ،‬ﻫﻨﺪ‬
‫و ﻣﺮاﻛﺶ ﺗﻬﻴﻪ ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد و ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت رﻧﮕﺮزي و ﺗﻜﻤﻴﻞ ﺗﻮﺳﻂ ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت ﺷﺮﻛﺖ‬
‫اﻧﺠﺎم ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد‪.‬‬
‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت ﻛﺎرﮔﺮﺑﺮ دوﺧﺖ ﺑﻪ ﻛﺎرﮔﺎه ﻫﺎي ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪي در اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎ و ﺷﻤﺎل ﭘﺮﺗﻐﺎل ﻛﻪ‬
‫در ﺣﺪود ‪ 350‬ﻛﺎرﮔﺎه ﻫﺴﺘﻨﺪ‪ ،‬ﺳﭙﺮده ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد‪.‬‬
‫ﭘﺲ از دوﺧﺖ وﺗﻜﻤﻴﻞ ﻛﺎﻻﻫﺎ‬
‫ﺑﻪ ﺳﺮﻋﺖ ﺑﻪ ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ﻫﺎي‬
‫ﺷﺮﻛﺖ ﻓﺮﺳﺘﺎده ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮﻧﺪ‪ .‬ﻫﺮ‬
‫ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ‪ 2‬ﺑﺎر در ﻫﻔﺘﻪ‬
‫ﻛﺎﻻﻫﺎي ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪي را درﻳﺎﻓﺖ ﻣﻲ‬
‫ﻛﻨﺪ و اﻧﺘﻘﺎل ﻫﺮ ﻛﺎﻻ ﺑﻴﺶ از‬
‫ﻳﻚ ﻫﻔﺘﻪ ﻃﻮل ﻧﻤﻲ ﻛﺸﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪160‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪4‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺑﻪ ﺟﺎي ﭘﻴﺶ ﺑﻴﻨﻲ ﺑﺮاي ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎي ﻫﺮ ﻓﺼﻞ از ﻣﺎه ﻫﺎ ﭘﻴﺶ )ﻫﻤﺎﻧﻨﺪ آﻧﭽﻪ اﻛﺜﺮ‬
‫ﺧﺮده ﻓﺮوﺷﺎن اﻧﺠﺎم ﻣﻲ دﻫﻨﺪ( ‪ Zara‬ﻧﻮع و ﻣﻴﺰان ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ ﻣﻮرد ﻧﻴﺎز ﺧﻮد را‬
‫ﭘﻴﺶ ﺑﻴﻨﻲ ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﺪ و ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎ را ﺑﺮ اﺳﺎس ﻧﻴﺎز ﺑﺎزار ﺑﺎ ﺳﺮﻋﺖ ﺑﺎﻻ اراﺋﻪ ﻣﻲ‬
‫دﻫﺪ‪.‬‬
‫•ﺿﺮر ﻧﺎﺷﻲ از ﻟﺒﺎس ﻓﺮوش ﻧﺮﻓﺘﻪ‬
‫ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ از اﻧﺘﺨﺎب ﻏﻠﻂ ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ اﺳﺖ‪.‬‬
‫•اﻣﻜﺎن اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ در ﻃﺮح‬
‫ﻫﺎي دﻳﮕﺮ وﺟﻮد دارد‪.‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪161‬‬
‫ﻧﻘﺶ ﻓﻨﺎوري اﻃﻼﻋﺎت در زﻧﺠﻴﺮه ﺗﺄﻣﻴﻦ ‪Zara‬‬
‫ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﮔﻴﺮي ﺳﺮﻳﻊ‬
‫رﺻﺪ ﻧﺰدﻳﻚ روﻧﺪ ﺑﺎزار و‬
‫رﻓﺘﺎر ﺧﺮﻳﺪ‬
‫ﻣﻄﺎﻟﻌﻪ ﻧﺤﻮه‬
‫ﭘﻮﺷﺶ در‬
‫ﻛﻤﭗ ﻫﺎي‬
‫داﻧﺸﺠﻮﻳﻲ‪،‬‬
‫ﺗﺠﻤﻌﺎت و ‪...‬‬
‫ﺑﺎزﺧﻮرد از‬
‫ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ﻫﺎ‪:‬‬
‫• ﮔﺰارش‬
‫ﻓﺮوش‬
‫• ﻧﻈﺮات‬
‫ﻓﺮوﺷﻨﺪه ﻫﺎ‬
‫ﺟﻤﻊ آوري و ﺗﺤﻠﻴﻞ اﻃﻼﻋﺎت در‬
‫دﻓﺘﺮ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي‬
‫ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ ﺑﺮ ﻣﺒﻨﺎي اﻃﻼﻋﺎت‬
‫ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﮔﻴﺮي در ﻣﻮرد ﻣﻮاد ﻣﻮرد‬
‫اﺳﺘﻔﺎده‬
‫ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ‬
‫•ﻛﻨﺘﺮل ﻣﻮﺟﻮدي ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ و‬
‫ﻣﻠﺰوﻣﺎت در اﻧﺒﺎر‬
‫•رﻧﮕﺮزي‪ ،‬ﭼﺎپ و ﺗﻜﻤﻴﻞ )در‬
‫ﺻﻮرت ﻧﻴﺎز(‬
‫• ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ‬
‫ﺗﻮزﻳﻊ‬
‫•ارﺳﺎل ﺑﻪ ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ﻫﺎ‬
‫•ﻗﺮار دادن در رﮔﺎل ﻫﺎ‬
‫‪162‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪5‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﭘﺎﻳﻴﻦ ﻧﮕﺎه داﺷﺘﻦ ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻫﺎ‬
‫‪ Zara -1‬ﺑﺨﺶ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮﺑﺮ دوﺧﺖ را ﺑﻪ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻛﻨﻨﺪه ﻫﺎي دﻳﮕﺮ ﻣﻲ ﺳﭙﺎرد‪.‬‬
‫ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮان اﻳﻦ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪي ﻫﺎ ﻣﺎدران‪ ،‬زﻧﺎن ﻣﺴﻦ و ﻳﺎ دﺧﺘﺮان ﻧﻮﺟﻮاﻧﻲ ﻫﺴﺘﻨﺪ‬
‫ﻛﻪ ﺑﺮاي ﺑﻪ دﺳﺖ آوردن ﻛﻤﻚ ﺧﺮج ﻛﺎر ﻣﻲ ﻛﻨﻨﺪ‪.‬‬
‫دﺳﺘﻤﺰد ﻳﻚ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮ ﺻﻨﻌﺘﻲ اﺳﭙﺎﻧﻴﺎﻳﻲ در ﺳﺎل ‪ 2001‬در ﺣﺪود ‪ 1300‬دﻻر‬
‫آﻣﺮﻳﻜﺎ در ﻣﺎه ﺑﻮده اﺳﺖ‪ .‬در ﺻﻮرﺗﻲ ﻛﻪ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮان ﻏﻴﺮ رﺳﻤﻲ ﻣﺸﻐﻮل ﺑﻪ ﻛﺎر در‬
‫ﻛﺎرﮔﺎه ﻫﺎي ﭘﻮﺷﺎك درآﻣﺪي ﻛﻤﺘﺮ از ﻧﺼﻒ آن ﻳﻌﻨﻲ در ﺣﺪود ‪ 500‬دﻻر‬
‫آﻣﺮﻳﻜﺎ داﺷﺘﻨﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪ -2‬در ﻣﻮرد ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻫﺎي ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ‪ Zara ،‬ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﺑﺮ روي اﻧﺘﺨﺎب ﻣﺤﻞ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ‬
‫ﺑﺮاي ﻓﺮوﺷﮕﺎه ﻫﺎﻳﺶ ﺗﺄﻛﻴﺪ دارد ﺗﺎ ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻛﺮدن ﺑﺮاي ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻎ‪.‬‬
‫در ﺳﺎل ‪ 2001‬ﺗﻨﻬﺎ ‪ 0/3‬درﺻﺪ از ﻓﺮوﺷﺶ را ﺑﻪ ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻐﺎت اﺧﺘﺼﺎص داد در‬
‫ﺻﻮرﺗﻴﻜﻪ اﻳﻦ ﻣﻘﺪار ﺑﺮاي رﻗﺒﺎي او در ﺣﺪود ‪ 3/8‬درﺻﺪ اﺳﺖ‪.‬‬
‫‪163‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪ -3‬ﻫﻤﭽﻨﻴﻦ ﻋﺮﺿﻪ ﺳﺮﻳﻊ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﻣﺪي و ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﻛﻢ از ﻫﺮ ﻃﺮح ﺳﺒﺐ ﺷﺪه ﺗﺎ‬
‫ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻫﺎي ﻧﺎﺷﻲ از ﺣﺮاج اﺟﻨﺎس ﻓﺮوش ﻧﺮﻓﺘﻪ ﻛﺎﻫﺶ ﻳﺎﺑﺪ‪ .‬ﺗﻨﻬﺎ در ﺣﺪود ‪%18‬‬
‫اﻗﻼم ﮔﺮوه ‪ Inditex‬در ﻇﺮف زﻣﺎﻧﻲ ﺧﻮد ﺑﻪ ﻓﺮوش ﻧﻤﻲ رود و ﺷﺎﻣﻞ ﺗﺨﻔﻴﻒ‬
‫ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد‪ .‬در ﺻﻮرﺗﻲ ﻛﻪ اﻳﻦ ﻣﻘﺪار ﺑﻪ ﻃﻮر ﻣﺘﻮﺳﻂ ﺑﺮاي ﺧﺮده ﻓﺮوﺷﺎن دﻳﮕﺮ در‬
‫ﺣﺪود ‪ %35‬اﺳﺖ‪.‬‬
‫‪ -4‬از آﻧﺠﺎ ﻛﻪ ‪ Zara‬ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ از ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎي ﻣﻮرد ﭘﺴﻨﺪ و ﻣﺪﻫﺎي راﻳﺞ اﻳﺪه ﻣﻲ‬
‫ﮔﻴﺮد‪ ،‬و ﻛﻤﺘﺮ ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎي ﺻﺮﻓﺎً اﺑﺘﻜﺎري اراﺋﻪ ﻣﻲ دﻫﺪ‪ ،‬ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻛﻤﺘﺮي ﻫﻢ ﺑﺎﺑﺖ‬
‫ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ و ﺗﻮﺳﻌﻪ ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﻣﻲ ﭘﺮدازد‪.‬‬
‫ﻛﭙﻲ ﻛﺮدن از ﻃﺮح ﻫﺎي ﻃﺮاﺣﺎن ﻣﻌﺘﺒﺮ از ﺷﻴﻮه ﻫﺎي ‪ Zara‬ﻣﻲ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪164‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪6‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ﺳﺎزي در ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‬
‫ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ﻧﺎم ﻳﺎ ﻧﻤﺎدي اﺳﺖ ﻛﻪ ﺳﺎزﻣﺎن آن را ﺑﺎ ﻫﺪف ارزش آﻓﺮﻳﻨﻲ ﺑﺮاي‬
‫ﻣﺤﺼﻮﻻت ﺧﻮد ﻣﻮرد اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﻗﺮار ﻣﻲدﻫﺪ‬
‫ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ارزﺷﻤﻨﺪ ﺗﺮﻳﻦ داراﻳﻲ ﻳﻚ ﺳﺎزﻣﺎن اﺳﺖ‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪165‬‬
‫ﻣﺮاﺣﻞ ﺳﺎﺧﺖ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ‬
‫‪ -1‬ﺗﺸﺨﻴﺺ ﻧﻴﺎز ﻣﺸﺘﺮي‬
‫ﺟﻤﻊ آوري اﻃﻼﻋﺎت ﺑﺎ ﻣﻄﺎﻟﻌﻪ ﺑﺎزار‬
‫•ﺗﺸﺨﻴﺺ ﻧﻴﺎزﻫﺎي ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻌﻞ ﻣﺸﺘﺮﻳﺎن‬
‫•ﺗﺸﺨﻴﺺ ﻧﻴﺎزﻫﺎي ﺧﻔﺘﻪ و ﺗﻼش در ﺟﻬﺖ ﺑﻴﺪار ﻛﺮدن آﻧﻬﺎ‬
‫‪ -2‬ﺳﺎﺧﺖ ﺗﺼﻮﻳﺮ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ‬
‫ﻧﺎم‪ ،‬ﻃﺮح‪ ،‬ﻟﻮﮔﻮ‪ ،‬رﻧﮓ‪ ،‬ﺷﻌﺎر ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻐﺎﺗﻲ و ‪...‬‬
‫•ﺗﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ ﺳﻼﺋﻖ ﺑﺎزار ﻫﺪف‬
‫•ﺗﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ ﺗﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺗﺼﻮﻳﺮ ﺑﺎ ﻣﺎﻫﻴﺖ ﻛﺎر‬
‫•اﻳﺠﺎد ﺗﻤﺎﻳﺰ و اﻳﺠﺎد ﻣﺎﻧﺪﮔﺎري در ذﻫﻦ ﻣﺸﺘﺮي‬
‫‪166‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪7‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫‪ -3‬ﺗﻮﺳﻌﻪ و آزﻣﺎﻳﺶ ﻣﺤﺼﻮل‬
‫•ﺑﺮاي ﭼﻪ ﻗﺸﺮي ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ ﺷﺪه اﺳﺖ؟‬
‫•ﭼﻪ ﻧﻴﺎزي را ﭘﺎﺳﺦ ﻣﻲ دﻫﺪ؟‬
‫•وﺟﻪ ﺗﻤﺎﻳﺰ آن ﺑﺎ ﻣﺤﺼﻮﻻت رﻗﻴﺐ ﭼﻴﺴﺖ؟‬
‫•ﺑﺎزﺧﻮرد ﺑﺎزار ﻧﺴﺒﺖ ﺑﻪ ﻣﺤﺼﻮل و ﻧﺎم و ﻧﺸﺎن آن ﭼﮕﻮﻧﻪ اﺳﺖ؟‬
‫‪ -4‬اﻧﺘﺨﺎب ﺑﻬﺘﺮﻳﻦ ﺗﺮﻛﻴﺐ‬
‫‪167‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪ -5‬ﺛﺒﺖ ﻧﺎم و ﻧﺸﺎن ﺗﺠﺎري ﺑﺮاي ﻣﺤﺎﻓﻈﺖ ﻗﺎﻧﻮﻧﻲ از آﻧﻬﺎ‬
‫‪ -6‬ﻣﻌﺮﻓﻲ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزار ﺑﺎ اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﺗﻜﻨﻴﻚ ﻫﺎي ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ‬
‫ﻫﺪف ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻐﺎت و ﺗﻜﻨﻴﻚ ﻫﺎي ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ ﺗﺮﻏﻴﺐ ﻣﺸﺘﺮﻳﺎن ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﺑﺮاي‬
‫اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﺑﺮاي ﺑﺎر اول اﺳﺖ‪ .‬ﺧﺼﻮﺻﻴﺎت ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﻣﻲ ﺑﺎﻳﺴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺘﻮاﻧﺪ ﻣﺸﺘﺮﻳﺎن را ﺑﻪ اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﻣﺠﺪد ﺗﺮﻏﻴﺐ ﻛﻨﺪ‬
‫‪168‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪8‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﻛﺪام ﺗﻜﻨﻴﻚ ﺑﺮاي ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻐﺎت و ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ ﻣﺤﺼﻮﻻت ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ اﺳﺖ؟‬
‫• ﺗﺒﻠﻴﻐﺎت در رﺳﺎﻧﻪ ﻫﺎ‬
‫• اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﺗﻮﺳﻂ اﻓﺮاد ﻣﺸﻬﻮر‬
‫• اراﺋﻪ ﻧﻤﻮﻧﻪ راﻳﮕﺎن‬
‫• اراﺋﻪ ﺑﻦ ﺗﺨﻔﻴﻒ )‪(voucher‬‬
‫• ﺗﺨﻔﻴﻒ ﻫﺎي ﻓﺼﻠﻲ )ﺣﺮاج(‬
‫• ﺧﺮﻳﺪ ﺑﺎ ﺟﺎﻳﺰه‬
‫‪...‬‬
‫ﺑﺮاي ﺗﺮﻏﻴﺐ ﻣﺸﺘﺮي ﺑﻪ ﺧﺮﻳﺪ ﻣﺠﺪد از ﭼﻪ روﺷﻬﺎي ﻣﻲ ﺗﻮان اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﻛﺮد؟‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪169‬‬
‫‪ -7‬ﻛﻨﺘﺮل و ﻧﻈﺎرت ﺑﺮ ﺑﺮﻧﺪ در ﺑﺎزار‬
‫• ﺧﻼﻗﻴﺖ‪ ،‬ﻃﺮح اﻳﺪه ﻫﺎي ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻳﺮاي ﺣﻔﻆ و ﮔﺴﺘﺮش ﺑﺎزار‬
‫• آﻣﺎدﮔﻲ ﭘﺎﺳﺨﮕﻮﻳﻲ در ﺑﺮاﺑﺮ اﺳﺘﺮاﺗﮋي ﻫﺎي رﻗﺒﺎ‬
‫‪170‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪9‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎﮎ‪ ،‬ﺣﺮﮐﺘﯽ ﺑﺴﻮﯼ ﻓﺮﺩﺍ‬
‫ﺑﺮرﺳﻲ ﻧﻤﻮﻧﻪ ﻫﺎي ﻣﻮﻓﻖ در ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‬
‫• ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫• رﻣﺰ ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫• وﺿﻌﻴﺖ ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﭼﻴﻦ‬
‫)اﻣﭙﺮاﺗﻮري ﻧﻮﻳﻦ( • ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ ﺳﺎل ‪ 1870‬ﻣﻴﻼدي‪:‬‬‫آﻏﺎز ﻓﻌﺎﻟﻴﺖ ﺻﻨﻌﺘﻲ؛ اﺣﺪاث اوﻟﻴﻦ ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﻪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك؛‬
‫ دوره ‪ 1870‬ﺗﺎ ‪:1949‬‬‫ﺗﻮﺳﻌﻪ ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت؛ ﺑﻜﺎرﮔﻴﺮي ‪ 745000‬ﻧﻔﺮ؛ﻋﺪم اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از اﺗﻮﻣﺎﺳﻴﻮن؛‬
‫ دوره ‪ 1950‬ﺗﺎ ‪:1955‬‬‫ﺑﺮﻧﺎﻣﻪ ‪ 5‬ﺳﺎﻟﻪ دوﻟﺖ ﺑﺮاي ﺑﺮآورده ﻧﻤﻮدن ﺗﻤﺎﻣﻲ ﻧﻴﺎزﻫﺎي اﻳﻦ ﺻﻨﻌﺖ؛‬
‫ ﺳﺎل ‪ 1979‬ﻣﻴﻼدي‪:‬‬‫آﻏﺎز دوره دوم ﺗﻮﺳﻌﻪ؛ ﻣﺪرن ﺳﺎزي ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت ﭘﻮﺷﺎك؛‬
‫ دوره ‪ 1997‬ﺗﺎ ‪:2002‬‬‫ﺗﺒﺪﻳﻞ ﺷﺪن ﺑﻪ ﺑﺰرﮔﺘﺮﻳﻦ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪﻛﻨﻨﺪه و ﺻﺎدرﻛﻨﻨﺪه ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﺟﻬﺎن؛‬
‫ﻛﺎﻫﺶ اﺷﺘﻐﺎل از ‪ 10.6‬ﻣﻴﻠﻴﻮن ﻧﻔﺮ ﺑﻪ ‪ 7.89‬ﻣﻴﻠﻴﻮن ﻧﻔﺮ؛‬
‫‪10‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﭼﻴﻨﻲ ﻫﺎ رﻣﺰ ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ ﺧﻮد را در ﭘﻴﺮوي از‪ 4‬اﻟﮕﻮ ﻣﻲ داﻧﻨﺪ‪:‬‬
‫اﻟﮕﻮي‪-1‬ﻛﺎﻫﺶ ﺻﺎدرات ﻛﺎﻻي ﻣﻴﺎﻧﻲ و اﻓﺰاﻳﺶ ﺻﺎدرات ﻛﺎﻻي ﻧﻬﺎﻳﻲ‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫اﻟﮕﻮي‪ -2‬ﺗﻤﺮﻛﺰ ﺑﺮ روي ﻳﻚ ﺳﺮي ﻣﺤﺼﻮﻻت ﻣﺸﺨﺺ ﺑﺎ ﺗﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ‬
‫ﭘﺘﺎﻧﺴﻴﻞ ﻣﻮﺟﻮد ﺟﻬﺖ ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫‪11‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫اﻟﮕﻮي‪ -3‬ﺑﻜﺎرﮔﻴﺮي ﻗﺎﻧﻮن واردات ﺑﺪون ﺣﻘﻮق ﮔﻤﺮﻛﻲ ﻣﻮاد اوﻟﻴﻪ‬
‫در ازاي ﺻﺎدرات ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﻧﻬﺎﻳﻲ)ﻗﺎﻧﻮن ﻓﺮآﻳﻨﺪ ﺻﺎدرات(‬
‫ﺣﺠﻢ اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﻗﺎﻧﻮن ﻓﺮآﻳﻨﺪ ﺻﺎدرات]ﻣﻴﻠﻴﺎرد دﻻر[‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫اﻟﮕﻮي‪ -4‬ﺗﻌﻴﻴﻦ ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻋﻤﺪه واردات ﻣﻮاد اوﻟﻴﻪ و ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻣﺤﺼﻮل ﺟﻬﺖ ﺗﻤﺮﻛﺰ و ﺑﺮﻧﺎﻣﻪ رﻳﺰي ﺑﺮ روي آﻧﻬﺎ‬
‫ﺣﺠﻢ ﺻﺎدرات ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻫﺪف ]ﻣﻴﻠﻴﺎرد دﻻر[‬
‫‪12‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﺣﺠﻢ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﭼﻴﻦ]ﻣﻴﻠﻴﺎرد ﺛﻮب ﻳﺎ ﻗﻄﻌﻪ[‬
‫ اﻓﺰاﻳﺶ ﺣﺠﻢ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك در اداﻣﻪ ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ در ﺻﺎدرات آن ﺑﻮد‪.‬‬‫ ﺻﺎدرات از ‪ %40‬در ﺳﺎل‪1980‬ﺑﻪ ‪ %70‬در ﺳﺎل‪ 2001‬اﻓﺰاﻳﺶ ﻳﺎﻓﺖ‪.‬‬‫‪ -‬ﺣﺠﻢ ﺻﺎدرات در ﺳﺎل ‪ 2002‬ﺑﻪ ‪ 41/3‬ﻣﻴﻠﻴﺎرد دﻻر رﺳﻴﺪ‪.‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻫﺪف ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪات ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﭼﻴﻦ ﺑﻪ ﻫﻤﺮاه ﺳﻬﻢ ﻫﺮﻳﻚ‬
‫از آﻧﻬﺎ از ﻛﻞ ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫‪13‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎﮎ‪ ،‬ﺣﺮﮐﺘﯽ ﺑﺴﻮﯼ ﻓﺮﺩﺍ‬
‫• ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫• رﻣﺰ ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺗﺮﻛﻴﻪ‬
‫)ﻗﺪرﺗﻲ ﻧﻮﻇﻬﻮر(‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫• وﺿﻌﻴﺖ ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫• ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻫﺪف‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ دوره ‪ 1923‬ﺗﺎ ‪ 1962‬ﻣﻴﻼدي‪:‬‬‫آﻏﺎز ﻓﻌﺎﻟﻴﺖ ﺻﻨﻌﺘﻲ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك در ﺗﺮﻛﻴﻪ؛‬
‫ دﻫﻪ ﻫﻔﺘﺎد ﻣﻴﻼدي)‪:(1970s‬‬‫ﺗﻮﺳﻌﻪ ﻛﺎرﺧﺎﻧﺠﺎت و ﻣﺪرن ﺳﺎزي ﺗﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮژي ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك؛‬
‫ دﻫﻪ ﻫﺸﺘﺎد ﻣﻴﻼدي)‪:(1980s‬‬‫آﻏﺎز ﺷﺘﺎب ﺻﺎدرات ﭘﻮﺷﺎك و روﻧﺪ روﺑﻪ رﺷﺪ آن در اﻳﻦ دﻫﻪ‬
‫ دﻫﻪ ﻧﻮد ﻣﻴﻼدي)‪:(1990s‬‬‫دوره ﺑﻬﺮه ﺑﺮداري و ﻛﺴﺐ ﺳﻬﻢ ‪ %20‬از ﻛﻞ ﺻﺎدرات ﺗﺮﻛﻴﻪ‬
‫‪14‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﺗﺮك ﻫﺎ رﻣﺰ ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ ﺧﻮد را در ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك در ﻣﻮارد زﻳﺮ ﻣﻲ ﺑﻴﻨﻨﺪ‪:‬‬
‫‪ -1‬ﺑﻬﺮه ﻣﻨﺪي از ﻣﻮاد اوﻟﻴﻪ ارزان و ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ‬
‫‪ -2‬ﻧﺰدﻳﻜﻲ ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي ﻋﻤﺪه ﻣﺎﻧﻨﺪ اﺗﺤﺎدﻳﻪ اروﭘﺎ‬
‫‪ -3‬زﻣﺎن ﺗﺤﻮﻳﻞ)‪ (Delivery time‬ﻛﻮﺗﺎه ﺑﻪ ﺧﺎﻃﺮ ﻣﻮﻗﻌﻴﺖ ﺟﻐﺮاﻓﻴﺎﻳﻲ‬
‫‪ -4‬ﺑﺎﻻ ﺑﻮدن ﺗﻮان ﭘﺎﺳﺨﮕﻮﻳﻲ ﺳﺮﻳﻊ)‪(Quick Response‬‬
‫‪ -5‬ﭘﻴﺮوي از ﺳﻴﺎﺳﺖ ﻫﺎي ﺗﺠﺎرت آزاد اﺗﺤﺎدﻳﻪ اروﭘﺎ‬
‫‪ -6‬ﺑﻬﺮه ﻣﻨﺪي از ﺻﻨﺎﻳﻊ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪﻛﻨﻨﺪه ﻣﻠﺰوﻣﺎت ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‬
‫‪ -7‬ﺑﺎﻻ ﺑﻮدن ﺗﻮان ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ و ﻧﻮآوري در ﻣﺪ‬
‫‪ -8‬ﺣﺴﺎﺳﻴﺖ ﻧﺴﺒﺖ ﺑﻪ آراﻣﺶ روﺣﻲ و وﺿﻌﻴﺖ زﻧﺪﮔﻲ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮان ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫‪15‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﭽﻪ‬
‫رﻣﺰ‬
‫وﺿﻌﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻫﺎي‬
‫ﻣﻮﻓﻘﻴﺖ‬
‫ﺻﺎدرات‬
‫ﻫﺪف‬
‫ﻋﻮاﻣﻞ ﻣﺆﺛﺮ ﺑﺮ ﻗﺪرت رﻗﺎﺑﺖ در ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‬
‫• ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ ﻫﺎي دﺳﺘﻤﺰدي و ﻏﻴﺮ دﺳﺘﻤﺰدي ﻛﺎرﮔﺮ‬
‫‪184‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪16‬‬
1436/07/23
Garment Workers Wages across the World, 2010
Country
United States
United Kingdom
Venezuela
Costa Rica
Guatemala
Colombia
Honduras
Philippines
China
Peru
El Salvador
Jordan
Malaysia
Hourly Wage
8.25-14.00$
7.58-9.11$
2.73$
2.19$
1.21$
1.20$
1.02$
0.94-1.00$
0.93$
0.92$
0.92$
0.74$
0.73$
Iran?
‫ در ن‬
Country
Nicaragua
Bahrain
Thailand
India
Mauritius
Vietnam
Egypt
Mexico
Sri Lanka
Pakistan
Indonesia
Cambodia
Bangladesh
Hourly Wage
0.65$
0.57$
0.56$
0.55-0.68$
0.55-0.65
0.52$
0.50-0.87$
0.50-0.53$
0.46$
0.37$
0.35$
0.24$
0.21$
0.7 - 1 $
185
‫ ﻣﻬﺎرت و ﻛﺎراﻳﻲ ﻛﺎرﮔﺮ‬،‫• ﺳﻄﺢ ﺳﻮاد‬
،‫ آب‬،‫• زﻳﺮﺳﺎﺧﺖ ﻫﺎي ﻛﺸﻮر )در دﺳﺘﺮس ﺑﻮدن و ﻫﺰﻳﻨﻪ اﻟﻜﺘﺮﻳﺴﻴﺘﻪ‬
(‫ﻣﺨﺎﺑﺮات و ﺣﻤﻞ و ﻧﻘﻞ‬
‫ در ن‬
17
186
1436/07/23
Global electricity price comparison 2011-2012
Country
Argentina
Australia
Belgium
Bhutan
Brazil
Canada
China
Chile
Croatia
Denmark
Dubai
Finland
France
Germany
Guyana
Hungary
US cents/1kWh
05.74
25
29.06
01.88 to 04.40
34.18
10.78
16.0
23.11
17.55
40.38
07.62
20.65
19.39
36.48
26.80
23.44
Country
Hong Kong
Iceland
Ireland
Italy
US cents/1kWh
12.04
03.93
28.36
28.39
Jamaica
07.35 up to 100 kWh, 16.80
beyond
15.40
Latvia
07.42
Malaysia
11.11
Moldova
Netherlands 28.89
02.06 up to 50 kWh, for a maximum of
Pakistan
14.62 beyond 700 kWh
10.44
Perú
Philippines 30.46
25.25
Portugal
09.58
Russia
Singapore 22.83
‫ در ن‬
187
Global electricity price comparison 2011-2012
Country
Spain
South Africa
Sweden
Taiwan
Thailand
Tonga
Turkey
Iran
UK
Ukraine
Uruguay
USA
Uzbekistan
Vietnam
‫ در ن‬
18
US cents/1kWh
27.06
05.37
27.10
07 up to 17
04.46 up to 09.79
57.95
13.1
02.00 to 06.00
21.99
03.05 (first 150kWh), 03.95
14.47 to 22.89
11.20
04.95
06.20 to 10.01
188
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫• دﺳﺘﺮﺳﻲ ﺑﻪ ﺑﺎزار ﻓﺮوش ‪ -‬زﻣﺎن اﻧﺘﻈﺎر )‪(lead time‬‬
‫زﻣﺎن ﻣﺎﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻔﺎرش ﻛﺎﻻ ﺗﺎ درﻳﺎﻓﺖ آن ‪Lead time:‬‬
‫• ﻧﺮخ ﺗﻌﺮﻓﻪ ﮔﻤﺮﻛﻲ‬
‫ﺣﻘﻮق ورودي اﻟﻴﺎف ﭘﻨﺒﻪ‪%15 :‬‬
‫ﺣﻘﻮق ورودي ﻧﺦ ﭘﻨﺒﻪ اي‪%30 :‬‬
‫ﺣﻘﻮق ورودي ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ‪ %70 :‬ﻳﺎ ﻛﻴﻠﻮﻳﻲ ‪ 37000‬رﻳﺎل )ﻫﺮ ﻛﺪام ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ(‬
‫ﺣﻘﻮق ورودي ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‪ %100 :‬ﻳﺎ ﻛﻴﻠﻮﻳﻲ ‪ 250000‬رﻳﺎل )ﻫﺮ ﻛﺪام ﺑﻴﺸﺘﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ(‬
‫ﻃﺒﻖ آﻣﺎر ﻏﻴﺮ رﺳﻤﻲ در ﺣﺎل ﺣﺎﺿﺮ ﺣﺪود ‪ 70‬درﺻﺪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك در ﺑﺎزار اﻳﺮان‬
‫ﺧﺎرﺟﻲ اﺳﺖ ﻛﻪ ﺑﻴﺶ از ‪ 90‬درﺻﺪ آن ﺑﻪ ﺻﻮرت ﻗﺎﭼﺎق وارد ﻛﺸﻮر ﻣﻲ ﺷﻮد‪.‬‬
‫‪189‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫• ﻣﻮاﻓﻘﺘﻨﺎﻣﻪ ﻫﺎي ﺗﺠﺎرت ﺗﺮﺟﻴﺤﻲ ﺑﺎ ﺗﺄﻣﻴﻦ ﻛﻨﻨﺪﮔﺎن ﻣﻨﻄﻘﻪ اي‬
‫ﻣﻮاﻓﻘﺘﻨﺎﻣﻪ ﻫﺎي ﺗﺠﺎرت ﺗﺮﺟﻴﺤﻲ وآزاد ﻛﻪ در زﺑﺎن اﻧﮕﻠﻴﺴﻲ ﺗﺤﺖ ﻋﻨﻮان‬
‫) ‪ Preferential Trade Agreements(PTA‬ﺷﻨﺎﺧﺘﻪ ﺷﺪه اﺳﺖ ‪ ،‬در واﻗﻊ ﺗﻮاﻓﻖ ﻫﺎي‬
‫ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﻠﻠﻲ ﻣﻴﺎن ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎ ﺑﻪ ﻣﻨﻈﻮر ﺗﺴﻬﻴﻞ ﺗﺠﺎرت ودر ﻧﺘﻴﺠﻪ اﻓﺰاﻳﺶ ﺣﺠﻢ ﺗﺠﺎرت ﻣﻴﺎن‬
‫ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎي ﻃﺮف ﺗﺠﺎري اﺳﺖ‪.‬در اﻳﻦ ﻗﺒﻴﻞ ﻣﻮاﻓﻘﺘﻨﺎﻣﻪ ﻫﺎ ‪،‬دوﻟﺘﻬﺎ ﺗﺴﻬﻴﻼﺗﻲ را در ﻓﺮاﻳﻨﺪ ﺗﺠﺎرت‬
‫ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﻠﻠﻲ ﺑﺮاي ﻳﻜﺪﻳﮕﺮ ﺑﻪ وﺟﻮد ﻣﻲ آورﻧﺪﻛﻪ درﻣﻮرد ﺳﺎﻳﺮ ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎ ﻗﺎﺋﻞ ﻧﻤﻲ ﺷﻮﻧﺪ‪.‬‬
‫اﻳﺮان ﭼﻨﺪ ﻣﻮاﻓﻘﺘﻨﺎﻣﻪ ﺗﺠﺎرت ﺗﺮﺟﻴﺤﻲ در ﺣﺎل اﺟﺮا ﺑﺎ ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎي زﻳﺮ دارد‪:‬‬
‫ازﺑﻜﺴﺘﺎن‪ ،‬ﺗﻮﻧﺲ‪ ،‬ﺳﻮرﻳﻪ‪ ،‬ﭘﺎﻛﺴﺘﺎن‪ ،‬ﻛﻮﺑﺎ‪ ،‬وﻧﺰوﺋﻼ‪ ،‬ﻗﺮﻗﻴﺰﺳﺘﺎن‪ ،‬ﺗﺮﻛﻴﻪ‪ ،‬ﺑﻮﺳﻨﻲ و ﻫﺮزﮔﻮﻳﻦ‪،‬‬
‫ﻛﺸﻮرﻫﺎي ﻋﻀﻮ ﺳﺎزﻣﺎن ﻫﻤﻜﺎري ﻫﺎي اﻗﺘﺼﺎدي ﻣﻨﻄﻘﻪ اي )اﻛﻮﺗﺎ(‬
‫‪190‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪19‬‬
‫‪1436/07/23‬‬
‫• ﻓﺮاﻳﻨﺪ ﮔﻤﺮك‬
‫• دﺳﺘﺮﺳﻲ ﺑﻪ ﻣﻮاد اوﻟﻴﻪ )ﻧﺦ‪ ،‬ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ و ﻣﻠﺰوﻣﺎت( ﺑﺎ ﻗﻴﻤﺖ رﻗﺎﺑﺘﻲ‬
‫• ﺷﺮاﻳﻂ اﻗﺘﺼﺎدي و ﺳﻴﺎﺳﻲ ﻛﺸﻮر‬
‫• ﺗﻮان ﺟﺬب ﺳﺮﻣﺎﻳﻪ ﻫﺎي ﺧﺎرﺟﻲ‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪191‬‬
‫• ﺗﺠﺮﺑﻪ ﻣﺪﻳﺮﻳﺘﻲ و ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ‬
‫• ﺗﻮاﻧﺎﻳﻲ اراﺋﻪ ﺑﺴﺘﻪ ﻛﺎﻣﻞ ﺧﺪﻣﺎت )‪(full package‬‬
‫ﺑﺎزارﻳﺎﺑﻲ و ﺗﺤﻘﻴﻘﺎت ‪ +‬ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ ‪ +‬ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪ ‪ +‬ﺗﻮزﻳﻊ‬
‫‪192‬‬
‫ در ن‬
‫‪20‬‬
1436/07/23
Role of apparel engineers
Simple industrial engineering applied specifically to the
apparel industry. Main activities of an industrial/apparel
engineer:
•Plant layout
•Production flow system
•Machines and adjustments
•Operator performance
•Operator training
•Production control system
•Cutting room
•Quality control
•Distribution
•Payroll system / incentives
•Plant safety
•Maintenance
‫ در ن‬
193
‫ﺑﺨﺶ ﻫﺎي ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ ﻳﻚ واﺣﺪ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪي ﭘﻮﺷﺎك‬
:‫ﻳﻚ واﺣﺪ ﺗﻮﻟﻴﺪي ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﺑﺴﺘﻪ ﮔﺴﺘﺮدﮔﻲ و ﺣﺠﻢ ﻓﻌﺎﻟﻴﺖ ﻫﺎي آن ﻣﻲ ﺗﻮاﻧﺪ ﺷﺎﻣﻞ ﺑﺨﺶ ﻫﺎي زﻳﺮ ﺑﺎﺷﺪ‬
Designing room
Cutting room
‫ واﺣﺪ ﻃﺮاﺣﻲ‬
‫ ﺳﺎﻟﻦ ﺑﺮش‬
‫ ﺳﺎﻟﻦ ﻻﻳﻲ ﭼﺴﺐ زﻧﻲ‬
Fusing
Sewing room
Pressing room
Storekeeping room
‫ ﺳﺎﻟﻦ دوﺧﺖ‬
‫ ﺳﺎﻟﻦ ﭘﺮس‬
‫ اﻧﺒﺎر‬
،‫ ﺑﺎزرﮔﺎﻧﻲ‬،‫ﺗﻘﺴﻴﻢ ﺑﻨﺪي ﻣﺮاﺣﻞ ﻓﻮق ﺑﺮ اﺳﺎس ﻣﺮاﺣﻞ ﻓﻨﻲ و ﺗﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮژﻳﻜﻲ اﺳﺖ و از ﺑﻴﺎن واﺣﺪﻫﺎي ﻣﺎﻟﻲ‬
.‫ ﺻﺮﻓﻪ ﻧﻈﺮ ﺷﺪه اﺳﺖ‬... ‫ﭘﺸﺘﻴﺒﺎﻧﻲ و‬
‫ در ن‬
21
194
1436/07/23
Apparel production systems
A- Individual system/whole garment system
In this system the entire garment operation process is done by an individual.
From cutting to packing the individual person performs the entire job. With
this production system the operator would be given a bundle of cut work and
would proceed to sew it according to his or her own method of work. Of
necessity, the labour required by this system must be highly skilled and
versatile, a combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and increasingly
expensive. This type of system is effective when a very large variety of
garments have to be produced in extremely small quantities. A typical
application would be in the sewing room of a boutique, which produces its
own merchandise.
‫ در ن‬
195
B- Group system
This is a development of the individual system, with the difference that the
operators specialize in one major component and sew it from beginning to
end. For example, an operator specializing in backs would assemble the
back and yoke, label attaching, etc., and performs all the operations
required to finish that particular component. The sewing room would have
a number of sections, each containing multitalented operators capable of
performing all the operations required for a specific component.
‫ در ن‬
22
196
1436/07/23
‫ در ن‬
197
This is a very efficient system for producing a variety of styles in reasonable
quantities.
Advantages:
1. As the labour of all levels, i.e. semi-skilled, skilled, trainee, can be used
in this system, the labour cost is less compared to individual system.
2. Productivity is higher compare to individual system, because of use of
special machine and all types of labour.
3. This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles in
reasonable quantities.
4. Automation and specialization can be done. 5. Absenteeism and
machine breakdown problems will not cause serious problems
‫ در ن‬
23
198
1436/07/23
Disadvantages:
1. All the operators are involved in the work to maintain the quality of
garment.
2. Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled operators
required to perform simple operation within the section.
3. Group of people are involved in each section, so we require more WIP
which increases the inventory cost.
4. As this is not a bundling system, there are more chances of shade and
size variation; hence quality and production are affected.
‫ در ن‬
199
C- Progressive bundle synchro straight line system – batch system
As the name suggests, this system is based on a synchronized flow of work
through each stage of producing a garment. Time-synchronization is the
most important factor of this system because the flow of work cannot be
synchronized if there are considerable variations in the standard times
allowed for all the operations performed on the line.
The synchro system by its very nature is rigid and particularly vulnerable to
absenteeism and machine breakdowns. In addition, this system requires a
sufficient volume of the same type of garment to keep the line in continuous
operation.
To be effective, this system requires:
Volume production
Accurate line balancing
Skilled supervision
Reserve operators
Reserve machinery and equipment
‫ در ن‬
24
200
1436/07/23
Advantages:
1. Laboursof all levels, i.e., unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labours, are
involved in this system where the operations are broken into small
simple operation. Hence the cost of labour is very cheap.
2. Here the quantity of each component is checked during the individual
operation itself, so the quality is good.
3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next
operation, so there is less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade
variation, size variation, etc.
4. Specialization and rhythm of operation increases productivity.
5. As the WIP is high in this system, it is a stable system. Because of the
buffer, the breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style
can be easily managed.
6. An effective production control system and quality control system can
be implemented. (a) Time study, method study techniques; (b)
Operator training programme; (c) Use of material handling
equipments, such as centre table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc.
7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems
becomes easy.
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Disadvantages:
1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by effective
supervisor.
2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed.
3. Proper planning is required for each batch and for each style, which
takes lot of time.
4. Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality, less
production, etc.
5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost.
6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system
effective, i.e. smooth flow of material.
7. Variety of styles, less quantity is not effective in this system.
8. Shuttle operators and utility operators are needed in every batch to
balance the line effectively.
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D- Unit production system (UPS)
As a mechanical system this has been in use for many years, but a major
advance was made in 1983 when computers were first used to plan,
control and direct the flow of work through the system. The essential
feature of this type of system is as follows: 1. The unit of production is a
single garment and not in bundles. 2. The garment components are
automatically transported from work station to work station according
to a pre-determined sequence. 3. The work stations are so constructed
that the components are presented as close as possible to the operator’s
left hand in order to reduce the amount of movement required to grasp
and position and component to be sewn.
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The operational principles are as follows:
All the components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a work
station especially designed for this purpose. The carrier itself is divided
into sections, with each section having a quick-release clamp which
prevents the components from falling out during movement through
the system. When a batch of garments has been loaded into carriers it is
fed past a mechanical or electronic device which records the number of
the carrier and addresses it to its first destination. Some of the more
intelligent systems address the carriers with all the destinations they
have to pass through to completion
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The loaded carriers are then fed on to the main powered line, which
continually circulates between the rows of machines. This main, or head,
line is connected to each work station by junctions that get opened
automatically if the work on a carrier is addressed to that particular
station. The carrier is directed to the left side of the operator and waits its
turn along with the other carriers in the station.
When the operator has completed work on one carrier, a push button at
the side of the sewing machine is pressed and this actuates a mechanism,
which transports the carrier back to the main line. As one carrier leaves
the station, another is automatically fed in to take its place. When the
carrier leaves the station, it is recorded on the data collection system, and
then is addressed to its next destination.
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Advantages:
1. Bundle handling is completely eliminated.
2. The time involved in the pickup and disposal is reduced to minimum.
3. Output is automatically recorded, hence eliminates the operator to
register the work.
4. The computerized systems automatically balance the work between
stations.
5. Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.
Disadvantages:
1. Unit production system requires high investments.
2. The payback period of the investment takes long time.
3. Proper planning requires being effective.
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