DUTCH HAVEN by Brad Igou Dutch Haven Visitors have been coming to Lancaster County by traveling Route 30 for literally hundreds of years. But for over 60 years, a very special building has signaled their arrival in Amish Country. It’s been around long enough that folks tell their grandchildren about it. It has a claim on being the area’s oldest visitor landmark. Most importantly, it’s the “place that made shoo-fly pie famous.” That building is the landmark Dutch Haven windmill, with its revolving arms still beckoning travelers to stop and come inside. With a history that goes back to the very beginnings of tourism in the county, the building is rich in memories both for visitors and for local residents. One local who has a warm place in her heart for Dutch Haven is Lois Schrock, who has worked at Dutch Haven for many years. She talks about the place as she would a relative of the family. And she is glad that the structure has been preserved, and that those famous shoo-fly pies are still being made and sold there. Dutch Haven opened, without the windmill, in the early 1920’s. At that time, it was a small luncheonette, and continued to operate as such when the new owner, Roy Weaver, purchased it in 1946, and Dutch Haven’s life as a full service restaurant officially began. The fame of the restaurant grew with his wife’s delicious shoo-fly pies, an unusual dessert that was new to most people who stopped by to eat. Indeed, shoo-fly pies were virtually unknown until Dutch Haven opened and served the pies warm, topped with whipped cream. Meanwhile, Roy topped the building itself with its famous landmark windmill. Tourism first started to grow in Lancaster in the 1940’s, and since many visitors came from New York, New Jersey, and Philadelphia, they drove right by Dutch Haven, and stopped in to have some of the legendary pie. And who knows? Maybe Doris Day or Dinah Shore had even stopped by prior to their recording of the song “Shoo-Fly Pie and Apple Pan Dowdy,” a song also recorded by Stan Kenton and Guy Lombardo. As tourism traffic increased, so did the restaurant, with buses paying visits into the 1970’s. The restaurant menu featured such items as the “Distleburger,” named after the “distlefink,” the Pennsylvania Dutch bird which is a symbol of good luck. Of course, there was also chicken corn soup, sauerkraut, “bot boi” (pot pie), pork BBQ, lettuce with warm bacon dressing, and perhaps the favorite dish on the menu --- Amish-style turkey filling. The gooey shoo-fly pie was still “the thing,” says Lois, and the dessert was even Ahhhhh! Shoo-Fly Pie! mentioned in a TIME magazine article. The menu encouraged diners to “Take one for yourself or send one to someone nice.” But then business started to decline, and so did the property. Saving it from an uncertain future, it was purchased by the current owner, Paul Stahl. By 1993, the interior had become a craft cooperative. Even though the restaurant no longer operated, the shoo-fly pies that were the key to Dutch Haven’s fame were still being made with the same famous recipe. At that point, Lois came to work at Dutch Haven. “My interest was to help to do 4 • Amish Country News • October 2008 • AmishNews.com whatever needed to be done to get it up and going again. I am grateful to Paul for buying the property because of my interest in the history, the building, and the place.” Gradually, the store expanded to what it is today, specializing in Amish furniture and over 10,000 unique gift items and collectibles. Fortunately, the walls on the inside of the windmill still contain many of the original decorations and paintings from the “old days.” The paintings were by an artist named Vince DeHaven, his last name being an odd coincidence to say the least! Other reminders of Dutch Haven’s past remain as well, including the old mailbox painted with Pennsylvania Dutch designs. You’ll also see the big barrel, informing visitors that “genuine Amish style root beer” is available. Now filling what were once restaurant dining areas, are rooms bursting with over 10,000 items. You’ll find one of the best selections of primitive Amish pine furniture --- corner cupboards, pie safes, chests, and shelves are all available. Gift and decorating items rang from Amish woodcrafts to jams and jellies, potholders to copper crafts, and T-shirts to stunning pottery. I asked Lois about the famous pie, which she passionately feels really is the best shoo-fly. It is difficult to argue with someone who has sampled as many different shoo-fly pie recipes as she obviously has. While the ingredients to these pies are often similar, Lois feels it is the unique combination in the Dutch Haven recipe that makes them so good. Try and find out what the recipe is, and you won’t get very far. She stresses that even people who say they don’t like shoo-fly pie discover that Dutch Haven’s pies are delicious. Apparently so, since between 40,000 to 50,000 are baked there annually. Many people make Dutch Haven a stop on their regular visits to Amish Country. One man said he took his first shoo-fly pie home and ate the entire pie in one sitting! Another visitor tasted the sample and asked what it was. Lois said simply that it was shoo-fly pie. The visitor responded in shock, “Why it can’t be. I don’t like shoo-fly pie!” Over the years, a frequent visitor to the weekly Manheim Auto Auction was also a frequent visitor at Dutch Haven to pick up a pie. And you can send a pie to yourself or a friend virtually anywhere in the USA. They hold up quite well, and taste like they’re hot out of the oven after a little warming in the microwave. I decided to put the above comments to the test. First, I took a pie to some friends who are not fans of shoo-fly pies, but I encouraged them to give it a try. All three of them did, and told me in great surprise, “This is the first shoo-fly pie I’ve eaten that I really like.” Next I wanted to send the pie to someone We Always Welcome Visitors With a Free Sample I knew liked shoo-fly pies, my uncle of Shoo-Fly Pie. and his wife in Florida. It was a simple phone call to Dutch Haven and off went the pie. They loved it, and told me that even the heat up the charcoal in the “pit” and get the delivery man commented on the pie as he was wood smoking. Woods used may be maple, dropping it off. It seemed he would have liked apple, or hickory. The meat gets rubbed and to have been the recipient, or at least been smoked for as long as 12 hours. It is then sliced and ready to pile onto the bun. The invited in for a slice! yummy sauce isn’t added until the time of Just a couple years ago, food returned to the service, and the sauce I had was wonderful. Dutch Haven menu. Just behind the windmill is Jakey’s Amish Barbeque. Barbeque By the way, Jakey’s offers three different meats and sandwiches are local favorites at sauces to choose from --- mild, spicy, and markets and auctions. Amish picnics often Carolina vinegar --- all adapted especially feature barbeque chicken. Local volunteer for the restaurant. Remember, you can also fire companies host pork BBQ dinners to get turkey and chicken pit BBQ. If you can’t raise money. But as a visitor, the likelihood of decide which BBQ to order, there is a sampler your being able to eat at one of these events platter with a quarter pound each of is limited. What to do? Why drive on over to three meats of your choosing. Jakey’s any day of the week. (Yes, they’re Besides salads, burgers, Nathan’s hot open Sunday. See back page for hours.) dogs, Philly steak sandwiches, and We’re talking real pit BBQ. The smell of the other items, the smoked beef pit chili smoke hints at the taste to come. You may have sounded good to me. And the French to wait a little for your sandwich --- it’s not a fries are not the frozen variety, but fast food restaurant --- but you’ll be getting hand cut, crispy on the outside and the “real deal.” I tried a generous sliced beef tender on the inside. As they like to barbecue sandwich with a delicious sauce. say, “At Jakey’s, we make it from And the ribs made my mouth water when scratch.” they arrived. A couple from the Carolinas You’ll also find other Lancaster also enjoyed a pork BBQ sandwich while I County favorites, such as corn fritters, was there, and the gentleman said he ate it funnel cake, chow chow, chicken corn “from the inside,” because he liked the meat soup, pot pie, pork and sauerkraut, so much! and root beer floats. I especially liked the potato They start with fresh meats, of course, using salad that was local suppliers whenever they one of my sides. can. They then Naturally, Dutch Haven’s world famous shoofly pie is available by the slice. Jakey’s is not a fancy restaurant, but an informal spot where the prices are not “fancy” either. And if you prefer, you can also order food “to go,” in case you’d rather take it home or back to your hotel. So, whether you visit Dutch Haven for some serious shopping, to sample the pie, to try some great BBQ, or just to see the historic building itself, you’ll be discovering a part of Lancaster County’s history. When you walk in under welcoming arms of the windmill, you be encouraged to try a free sample of “America’s best shoo-fly pie.” And like many visitors before, you will probably decide to “Take one for yourself or send one to someone nice.” After all, it IS the place that made shoo-fly pie famous! At this time of year, Dutch Haven is open 7 days a week, 9 am to 7 pm Sunday through Thursday, and until 9 pm Friday and Saturday nights. Jakey’s BBQ is open from 11 am. For more information, about this Lancaster County landmark, call (717) 687-0111, or go shopping and send a pie online at www.dutchhaven.com. Shoo-Fly Heaven America’s Best Shoo Fly Pie A 1957 Advertisement For Dutch Haven Don’t Miss Jakey’s Great Barbeque Right Behind Dutch Haven! AmishNews.com • October 2008 • Amish Country News • 5