Bluebonnet Kennels
Family Raised Leonbergers
Wendy Jones
(Wendy)832-515-1148
Websites: www.bluebonnetleos.com
Email: wendyruhl@comcast.net
We have all had such a pleasure with this litter. Please remember to keep us updated on their
progress through life and send pictures throughout the years. Do not hesitate to call me
anytime!
In the following write up I would like to give you an insight on how we raise our dogs and hope
this will help you to enjoy the new addition to your home:
Vaccinations and Deworming:
 Your puppy will have his first set of puppy vaccinations on xx/xx/15. They will need
their next round of shots at 10 wks, 13 wks, and 16wks…for a total of 4 DHPP
(distemper, hepatitis, parvo, para-influenza) shots. By giving shots every 3 wks you
limit the window of susceptibility. Rabies vaccine is usually given at the age of 4
months (after the 16wk shots – around 17 wks). This is sometimes staggered from the
16wk shots…just do whatever your vet recommends. You also need to be aware of
whatever other shots might be needed for your area, such as lyme, lepto, etc. Please
refer to the included “Vaccination recommendations for puppies” guide.
 I would also suggest that you discuss with your vet getting a Parvo only shot at 6mths.
I have had the misfortune of contracting Parvo at the age of 7mths following complete
and perfectly scheduled vaccinations.
 Your puppy was dewormed at 21 days of age, and every 2wks thereafter, with StrongidT. The last deworming being xx/xx/15.
 They will need to have their first heartworm preventative as soon as they have their
first vet checkup. You will need to continue with this every month. I use Sentinel
which also helps with fleas. You can use Sentinel or Interceptor, but do NOT use
Heartguard. Some Leos have shown a negative reaction to this…including one of my
dogs.
 They will also have been microchipped on xx/xx/15, and you will receive all the
corresponding “chip” info in your “puppy packet”. This is no additional cost to
you…but Please remember to register with the location service.
Feeding and Food:
 The puppies are all eating 4-5 times per day right now. It is advisable to still keep the
puppy on at least 3-4 meals a day and he/she will let you know by not eating well at
one of those meals when it is time to only eat 2 times a day. At present they eat
Orijens and/or Acana (varying varities). It is recommended to rotate blends every week
or so. Treats will be a mixture of meaty bones, and various items mixed into their food
could be pumpkin, yogurt, and whatever else I feel like adding (usually bananas or
apples). I always let the kibble set in water to become completed hydrated before
mixing with the other ingredients and feeding. You can gradually decrease the amount
of time moistening and increase hardness of kibble. I do believe that dry dog kibble is
not enough for any dog and therefore; I also add a variety of things (puréed) including
pumpkin (100% canned pumpkin), apples, carrots, bananas, broccoli, cabbage,
spinach, or whatever fruit and veggies I have in the house (except onions and tomatoes)
in the blender and then I mix raw ground beef, chicken, or turkey, and yogurt in with
that. Once they are consuming a hard kibble with water, I typically feed kibble in the
morning and raw in the evening…as a hard kibble and raw do not digest at the same
rate.
 One source of raw food is through Northwest Naturals (cms.nwnaturals.net/raw/index.php). All Northwest Naturals raw foods are formulated from
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quality and pure ingredients. Human grade, hormone-free, grass-fed, no added
antibiotics, and grade A vegetables. If you choose to feed raw, please make sure of the
ingredients quality. Currently I do get my raw from Texas Tripe and add in vegies &
supplements myself.
I only feed adult food, no puppy food!! Puppy food (even large breed puppy food)
has a tendency to make them grow too fast.
Always let them eat till they stop during their meals. Let them control the portion size.
Every now and again you will get a ‘gluten for punishment’, but typically speaking a
puppy is the best regulator of how much food they need.
In a group, these puppies are very good eaters, but once they are in a different
environment this might change especially if there is no other dog in the house. If your
puppy gets to be picky and does not gain steadily, you might have to feed three meals
longer.
The stool of the puppy is a very good indicator of overeating. Many times loose stool
happens if he is overeating or the food has too much protein content (I prefer max. 24
% protein). Of course if the puppy has loose stool it could also be parasites or an
oncoming illness so this has to be watched closely. Pumpkin (only 100% pure canned)
is good for diarrhea and/or constipation.
Too much calcium in the diet can cause bone disorders in large breed dogs, so
supplementing with calcium has to be done very careful and only in conjunction with
extra meat in the diet.
I also would not recommend free feeding - that is leaving food out all the time - it
makes generally picky eaters eat even less. With my own dogs and puppies I will stand
there and watch them eat to make sure everyone is doing well and getting what they
need and take the uneaten portion up after they are done - of course they enjoy the
company too.
Supplements:
o I use Nupro Joint Supplement. I also add a little into their puppy mix during
the last week. Their number is 1-800-360-3300.
o Vitamin C is very crucial to their growing bones. You can start them on 500mg
(or add to that from Nupro Joint Supplement…to make up to desired amount)
and gradually get them to 1500-2000mg. Vitamin C helps with bone growth
and strength without adding unnecessary calcium. And whatever the body
doesn’t need it sluffs off.
o Probiotics. I use a probiotic from Canada that is produced solely for dogs.
http://probiavi.com/english/probiavi_dogs.htm is the link. And I order the one
for ‘big dogs’ (it’s on the Boutique tab)
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Example of an exact food recipe for 6 puppies: (So divide by 6…or realize this will
make for possibly 6 feedings…and let them tell you when they are done)
o 4 cups kibble (then soak till hydrated)
o approx 2 -3 cups raw food (ground beef heart/turkey/lamb/beef/chicken)
o approx 1 cup pumpkin
o approx 1/8 cup coconut oil
o *3 full (little) scoops of probiotics (2x per week)
o *1/4 cup Nupro Supplements (1x per day)
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Housebreaking:
 If you feed your puppy at about the same time every day and let him out to do his
business right afterwards, after every nap, first thing in the morning when he wakes up
(you have to be fast then) and last thing at night, he will very quickly know what is
expected of him and he will be housetrained in no time.
 Crate training - this means to have him sleep in his crate for any nap and over night.
Usually puppies will not soil or wet their bed and will let you know by whining or
scratching that they will have to go out. It is even then the best to instantly take him
out when he wakes up in the morning or from a nap.
 Overall positive reinforcement is the key to training so praise him whenever he does
anything right. You can never praise him too much.
Care:
 Leonberger Coats are "wash and wear". It is a good idea to brush him at least once a
week - it will be quality time for you and him and he will get used to being messed with.
Trouble spots that mat easily are the feathers behind the ears, the pants and tail.
Keeping up with these areas is a whole lot easier than dealing with huge mats!
 In Spring and Fall is shedding time and I usually take several hours to comb through
their whole coat to get most of the loose hair in one sitting then brush him every other
day for a couple of weeks until all the dead hear is out.
 My Leos love to be brushed, so this will be a fun time.
 The nails have to be trimmed on a regular basis (this might be a struggle and has to be
done from the time he gets home to you - just do it often and take just a little edge off,
so it will not hurt) If you do not get him used to this early, you might not be able to do
it when he is grown up! I also dremmel my dogs nails. It is best to get them use to the
vibration early too. Start by doing just one nail at a time for a few days, then maybe
two at a time…and so on. Before you know it they will be tolerating it fine. Then you
can resort to doing it once every couple weeks.
 Ears also have to be checked and possibly cleaned weekly for excessive wax or
oncoming infections especially if the environment is humid or the puppy swims
regularly.
 Dental care is important also. Only use toothpaste that is canine appropriate!!
 Puppies that are bored will sometimes be very destructive (I have heard of a breeder
that sold one puppy that dismantled a whole couch and took the stuffing out in the
backyard so it looked like it had snowed several inches when the owner had to stay
hours longer at work than usual). To avoid things like this it is good to give the pup
something to chew on and have him confined in an area were he can not do too much
damage.
Obedience:
 It is absolutely essential to take a large dog like the Leo to obedience school (see
contract) not only for the obedience part is it so important but for socialization equally.
 The Leonberger is a guard dog, so without constant socialization especially in the first 2
years of his life he might just take it on himself to decide who is a stranger or even that
anybody outside the immediate family is a stranger. And he will protect his family and
property more than you like.
 Puppies go through many phases at times where they are more shy or more outgoing
and sometimes they will try you out. To build your pup's self-confidence you need to
take him with you to as many different places as possible. If he shows signs of
dominant behavior towards you or your family members, make sure to practice
dominance exercises on a daily basis.
o You should always be able to take a bone out of his mouth and touch his food
while he is eating!!
 Be consistent in your training without shouting and anger. Leos are very sensitive and
will be affected by your household emotions very easily. Praise and dog biscuits will be
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the methods of choice due to their sensitivity and for the most part any Leo would like
to please his owner. If they could be with you 24x7, that would be perfect for them.
Involve your children whenever possible in training your puppy. Always supervised, to
make sure it is done properly, but it is wonderful for your child to learn appropriate
obedience and training for your puppy. It will also help make it clear to the puppy that
the child is ‘above’ the puppy in the pack order.
The work with your puppy in the first two years will pay off because he will be your
wonderful companion.
Exercise:
 Your Leo will be ready to go with you whenever you will take him, but just a few words
of caution here: Until his muscles have developed for the heavy bone they have it is
wise to not strain the puppy. Just let him go at his own pace and however long he
wants to run. So to take him jogging while growing up is not a good idea, the same for
running up and down stairs or jumping in and out of a truck. This has to wait until he
is about one year old to avoid damage to joints and bones.
 However to go on walks and play with him on his own terms (let him rest when he is
tired) is very important.
 When it is hot and humid he should probably stay in the house. Cooling is almost
impossible in hot/humid climate. For those days he needs a kiddy pool or a watermister to be able to cool off.
 Children and dogs have to be supervised especially while the puppy grows up. Make
sure not to have the children play tug games with the pup, as the puppy will have the
feeling that the child is on his level and this is not what we want for safety reasons.
Try to never allow your child’s head to be below that of the dog…and make it clear that
the children are higher in the pack than the Leo. And remember that Leos are great
with children, but they still are puppies with big puppy teeth and sharp/big puppy
paws.
The Leonberger reaches his maturity about age 3 or even 4. At times he might grow only in the
front and then only in the rear and might look awkward and lanky until he is fully mature.
Hopefully your puppy will grow up to be the most beautiful Leo.
I tried to write down the things that I find most important but there are many more things to
talk about.
The books I feel are very helpful are:
" The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the Monks of New Skeet
and "Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook" by Delbert G. Carlson, DVM and James M.
Griffin, MD
and “The Leader of the Pack” by Nancy Baer
and any of Cesar Millan’s stuff.
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Items you might need for your new baby… I will provide starter collar & leash
1.
"The Art of Raising a Puppy", by The Monks of Newskeet (and other books listed above)
2.
Crate/Vari Kennel – exercise pens - define sleeping and playing area. (I love the Hagen
crates (for a ‘vari’ kennel style): (expensive, but worth it…easy to open, etc.)
http://www.petco.com/product/119193/Hagen-Dogit-Design-Cargo-Dog-Carrier.aspx
3.
Puppy area defined in your house and back yard...puppy proof, think about poisonous
plants, cords, etc.!! I typically have an ex-pen in the kitchen area as well as their crate…this
can be thought of as ‘puppy play pen’, and a safe place for them to be if they cannot be
tethered to you…gives everyone a break (kids, other dogs, etc.) without putting them in their
crate.
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Food and water bowls
5.
Make your first vet visit appointment. Visit/talk with your vet of choice and give them a
heads up that they will have a Leonberger as a client. Make sure your goals are in line with
the vets.
6.
Food:
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Taste of the Wild adult kibble (or another premium kibble)
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Northwest Naturals (or equivalent raw food diet)
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pumpkin (100% pumpkin)
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Coconut cold pressed oil (I put approx. 1 tsp per 6 puppies)
7.
Supplements:
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Nupro Supplements (1x per day)
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Probiavi Probiotics (2x per week)
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Toys: all textures and feels till you find out what kind your pup loves
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plastic, rubber, soft cloth, chew toys (absolutely NO rawhides), bully sticks, etc.
9.
First aid supplies (your vet might recommend)
10. Food storage - freezer space - etc.
11. Hopefully you are visiting and making a decision on the perfect training facility...and/or
doggie day camp.
12. Brush
13. Nail clippers - dremmel
14. Tooth brush & doggy paste
15. Heartworm medication (Sentinel)
16. Exercise Pen (if needed), doggy door (if needed)
17. Pooper scooper/doggy bags
18. Think about pet insurance. (I use, and have been very pleased with, PetsBest)
Please try to get these books and go through them before your puppy arrives. Make sure that
you are the pack leader…but with gentle, positive reinforcement!
If you have any questions at all that I can help you with, feel free to call or e-mail me any time
(even at night). I hope you will be as happy and have as much fun with your puppy as we have
had with our Leo's.
Your Leonberger Bluebonnet Kennel
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Vaccination Recommendations for Puppies (Puppy Shots)
Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff
The vaccination of puppies (puppy shots) is one of the crucial steps in assuring the puppy will
have a healthy and happy puppyhood. The who, what, why, when, where, and how of
vaccinations are complicated, and may vary from puppy to puppy. Always consult with your
veterinarian to determine which vaccines are appropriate for your puppy. To better understand
vaccines, it is important to understand how the puppy is protected from disease the first few
weeks of its life.
Protection from the mother (maternal antibodies)
A newborn puppy is not naturally immune to diseases. However, it does have some antibody protection which is derived from
its mother's milk. 98% of the pupppy's immunity is from antibodies derived from the first milk. This is the milk produced
around the time of birth. This antibody-rich milk is called colostrum. The puppy does not continue to receive antibodies
through its mother's milk. It only absorbs antibodies from colostrum for 12-24 hours after birth. All antibodies derived from
the mother are called maternal antibodies. It must be noted that the puppy will only receive antibodies against diseases for
which the mother had been recently vaccinated against or exposed to. As an example, a mother that had NOT been vaccinated
against or exposed to parvovirus, would not have any antibodies against parvovirus to pass along to her puppies. The puppies
then would be susceptible to developing a parvovirus infection.
Window of susceptibility
The age at which puppies can effectively be immunized (protected) is proportional to the amount of antibodies the puppy
received from its mother. High levels of maternal antibodies present in the puppies' bloodstream will block the effectiveness
of a vaccine. When the maternal antibodies drop to a low enough level in the puppy, immunization by a commercial vaccine
will work.
The antibodies from the mother generally circulate in the newborn's blood for a number of weeks. There is a period of time
from several days to several weeks in which the maternal antibodies are too low to provide protection against the disease, but
too high to allow a vaccine to work. This period is called the window of susceptibility. This is the time when despite being
vaccinated, a puppy or kitten can still contract the disease.
When should puppies be vaccinated?
The length and timing of the window of susceptibility is different in every litter, and even between individuals in a litter. A
study of a cross section of different puppies showed that the age at which they were able to respond to a vaccine and develop
protection (become immunized) covered a wide period of time. At six weeks of age, 25% of the puppies could be immunized.
At 9 weeks of age, 40% of the puppies were able to respond to the vaccine. The number increased to 60% by 16 weeks of
age, and by 18 weeks, 95% of the puppies were protected by the vaccine.
Almost all researchers agree that for puppies and kittens, we need to give at least three combination vaccinations and repeat
these at one year of age.
Drs. Foster and Smith prefer to vaccinate puppies with a combination vaccine at six Consult with your
weeks of age initially, with boosters given every three weeks until the puppy is
veterinarian to determine
about sixteen weeks of age. We feel that this schedule will help protect the widest
range of dogs. We realize that with our protocol, we will be vaccinating some dogs which vaccinations your
that are not capable of responding, and we will be revaccinating some dogs that
have already responded and developed protection. But without doing an individual puppy should receive, and
test on each puppy, it is impossible to determine when the puppy's immune system how often.
will be best able to respond. We also realize that in the face of an infection, due to
the window of susceptibility, some litters will contract a disease (e.g., parvo) despite being vaccinated. By using quality
vaccines and an aggressive vaccination protocol, we can make this window of susceptibility as small as possible. Our
vaccination protocol may not be right for every puppy. Some 'high risk' puppies may need a more intense and aggressive
vaccination program. It is best to work with your veterinarian on a vaccination protocol that is best for your individual puppy
or kennel, taking into consideration your individual situation.
Against which diseases should puppies be vaccinated?
The AVMA Council on Biologic and Therapeutic Agents' Report on Cat and Dog Vaccines has recommended that the core
vaccines for dogs include distemper, canine adenovirus-2 (hepatitis and respiratory disease), canine parvovirus-2, and rabies.
Noncore vaccines include leptospirosis, coronavirus, canine parainfluenza and Bordetella bronchiseptica (both are causes of
'kennel cough'), and Borrelia burgdorferi (causes Lyme Disease). Consult with your veterinarian to select the proper vaccines
for your puppy.
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AVMA and AAHA Vaccination Recommendations for Dogs
Component
Class
Efficacy
Length of
Immunity
Canine
Distemper
(MLV)
Core
High
> 1 year for
modified
live virus
(MLV)
vaccines
Parvovirus
(MLV)
Core
High
> 1 year
Risk/Severity
of Adverse
Effects
Low
Low
CAV-2
(MLV) for
Hepatitis
Core
High
> 1 year
Low
Rabies
Core
High
Dependent
upon type
of vaccine
Low to
moderate
Intranasal
MLV Moderate
Injectable
MLV Parainfluenza Noncore
Low
Bordetella
Intranasal
MLV Moderate
Noncore Injectable
MLV -
Moderate
Short
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Low
Low
Comments
Only use
canine
adenovirus-2
(CAV-2)
vaccines, not
CAV-1; also
protects
against
respiratory
disease
caused by
CAV-2
Only
recommended
for dogs in
kennels,
shelters,
shows, or
those exposed
to large
numbers of
other dogs.
Vaccinate
prior to
exposure to
large numbers
of dogs
Low
Leptospirosis Noncore Variable
(boarding,
shows, etc.)
Up to 30% of
dogs may not
respond to
vaccine
Short
High
Lyme
Appears
to be
limited to
Noncore previously
unexposed
dogs;
variable
Revaccinate
annually
just prior to
tick season
Moderate
Coronavirus
Noncore Low
Unknown
Low
Generally not
recommended
Low
Does not
prevent
infection but
may reduce
risk of
transmission
to others
Giardia
Noncore Low
Unknown
MLV= modified live vaccine
A possible vaccination schedule for the 'average' dog is shown below.
Dog Vaccination Schedule
Age
Vaccination
5 weeks
Parvovirus: for puppies at high risk of exposure
to parvo, some veterinarians recommend
vaccinating at 5 weeks. Check with your
veterinarian.
6 & 9 weeks
Combination vaccine* without leptospirosis.
12 weeks or older
Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (age at
vaccination may vary according to local law).
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12 & 15 weeks**
Combination vaccine
Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the
combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a
concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if
traveling to an area where it occurs.
Combination vaccine
Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the
combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a
concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
Adult (boosters)§
Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if
traveling to an area where it occurs.
Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (time
interval between vaccinations may vary
according to local law).
*A combination vaccine, often called a 5-way vaccine, usually
includes adenovirus cough and hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza,
and parvovirus. Some combination vaccines may also include
leptospirosis (9-way vaccines) and/or coronavirus. The inclusion of
either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect
against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly
preferred.
**Some puppies may need additional vaccinations against
parvovirus after 15 weeks of age. Consult with your local
veterinarian.
§ According to the AVMA and AAHA, dogs at low risk of disease
exposure may not need to be boostered yearly for most diseases.
Consult with your local veterinarian to determine the appropriate
vaccination schedule for your dog. Remember, recommendations
vary depending on the age, breed, and health status of the dog, the
potential of the dog to be exposed to the disease, the type of vaccine,
whether the dog is used for breeding, and the geographical area
where the dog lives or may visit.
Bordetella and parainfluenza: For complete canine cough
protection, we recommend Nobivac Intra-Trac3 ADT. For dogs that
are shown, in field trials, or are boarded, we recommend annual
vaccination with Nobivac Intra-Trac3 ADT.
Vaccine dose
It is NOT true that a small breed of puppy should receive a smaller vaccine dose than puppies of larger breeds.
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All puppies regardless of age, body weight, breed, and gender are given the same vaccine dose.
Vaccines are generally administered in one milliliter (cc) doses. Simply follow the manufacturer's
recommendations. To administer a lesser vaccine amount than recommended will likely result in
insufficient immunity.
Time to produce protection
Vaccines do not stimulate immunity immediately after they are administered. Once a vaccine is
administered, the antigens must be recognized, responded to, and remembered by the immune system. Full
protection from a vaccine usually takes up to fourteen days. In some instances, two or more vaccinations several
weeks apart must be given to achieve protection. In general, modified live vaccines and those vaccines administered
intranasally provide the fastest protection.
Why do some vaccinated animals still get the disease?
It is a fact that in the USA today, literally hundreds and perhaps thousands of vaccinated dogs and cats are still
contracting the diseases they were vaccinated against. Some term this ' vaccine failure,' although it is more likely a
failure of the immune system to respond than a problem with the vaccine itself.
Parvovirus is a serious case in point. How can a puppy get the disease and possibly die if it was vaccinated?
Unfortunately, for some reason the vaccine did not stimulate the immune system enough to protect the puppy from
disease. The reason may be interfering maternal antibodies, the vaccines themselves, the dog's own immune system,
or genetics. By far, the most common reason in puppies is interfering maternal antibodies.
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Critical periods in puppy development
Neonatal Period (0-12 Days):
The puppy responds only to warmth, touch, and smell. He cannot regulate body
functions such as temperature and elimination.
Transition Period (13 - 20 Days):
Eyes and ears are open, but sight and hearing are limited. Tail wagging begins
and the puppy begins to control body functions.
Awareness Period (21 - 28 Days):
Sight and hearing functions well. The puppy is learning that he is a dog and has
a great deal of need for a stable environment.
Canine Socialization Period (21 - 49 Days):
Interacting with his mother and littermates, the pup learns various canine
behaviors. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human
societies.
Human Socialization Period (7 to 12 Weeks):
The pup has the brain wave of and adult dog. The best time for going to a new
home. He now has the ability to learn respect, simple behavioral responses: sit,
stay, come. Housebreaking begins. He now learns by association. The
permanent man/dog bonding begins, and he is able to accept gentle discipline
and establish confidence.
Fear Impact Period (8 - 11 Weeks):
Try to avoid frightening the puppy during this time, since traumatic experiences
can have an effect during this period. As you can see, this period overlaps that
of the previous definition and children or animal should not be allowed to hurt
or scare the puppy -- either maliciously or inadvertently. It is very important
now to introduce other humans, but he must be closely supervised to minimize
adverse conditioning. Learning at this age is permanent.
This is the stage where you wonder if your dog is going to be a woosy butt all
his life. Also introducing your puppy to other dogs at this time will help him
become more socialized. If available in your area, a doggy day care is great for
this.
Seniority Classification Period (13 - 16 Weeks):
This critical period is also known as the "Age of Cutting" - cutting teeth and
cutting apron strings. At this age, the puppy begins testing dominance and
leadership. Biting behavior is absolutely discouraged from thirteen weeks on.
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Praise for the correct behavior response is the most effective tool. Meaningful
praise is highly important to shape positive attitude.
Flight Instinct Period (4 to 8 Months):
During this period puppies test their wings- they will turn a deaf ear when
called. This period lasts from a few days to several weeks. It is critical to praise
the positive and minimize the negative behavior during this time. However, you
must learn how to achieve the correct response. This period corresponds to
teething periods, and behavioral problems become compounded by
physiological development chewing.
Second Fear impact period (6 - 14 Months):
Also called, "The fear of situations period", usually corresponds to growths
spurts. This critical age may depend on the size of the dog. Small dogs tend to
experience these periods earlier than large dogs. Great care must be taken not to
reinforce negative behavior. Force can frighten the dog, and soothing tones
serve to encourage his fear. His fear should be handled with patience and
kindness, and training during this period puts the dog in a position of success,
while allowing him to work things out while building self-confidence.
Maturity (1 - 4 years) :
Many breeds' especially giant breeds continue to grow and physically change
well beyond four years of age. The average dog develops to full maturity
between 1-1 1/2 years and three years of age. This period is often marked by an
increase in aggression and by a renewed testing for leadership. During this
time, while testing for leadership, the dog should be handled firmly. Regulars
training throughout this testing period, praise him for the proper response.
Giving him no inroads to affirm his leadership will remind him that this issue
has already been settled.
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