Information for Cat Owners
The principles outlined in this handout are intended as a general guide only. Your vet is
the appropriate person to consult if there are any concerns about your cat. Parts of this
document may be reproduced as long as Maggie’s Rescue is acknowledged as the source.
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Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
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Introduction
Thank you very much for adopting a rescued cat! By adopting, you have saved a life.
Your cat may have found herself in the pound because she was an unclaimed stray or
because she was surrendered. However your cat came to Maggie’s, and now to you, it’s
worth remembering that most cats are surrendered to pounds not because they are bad
cats, but because their family’s circumstances change. They may be moving overseas, or
into an apartment or nursing home, they become ill or injured, or they simply can’t be
bothered looking after an animal anymore. There is nothing wrong with the cat.
Your cat has usually been in foster care for at least two weeks, usually longer, and with
your time, love and understanding, she will be a loving companion for life. Love your cat
like the truly wonderful creature she is and as she deserves. Make your new pet a part of
your family.
As with any new pet, you have to expect that there will be a settling-in period. During
these early weeks, sometimes months, she may be anxious and show it by trying to
escape, urinating in inappropriate places, or eating less. Please be sure your home is
escape-proof and you don't allow her outside for at least two weeks - and preferably not
at all. Kittens should never be allowed outside. We suggest you leave your new cat
indoors, or install a cat run that allows the cat shelter and access back inside the house.
If you can be patient and gentle for at least the first 2 or 3 weeks, your cat will soon
feel comfortable and settled in her new home and her true personality will emerge.
Please give your new cat a fair chance and you will grow to love her, as she will grow to
trust and love you and be your lifelong friend.
Once again, thank you for adopting your new cat and making room in your heart and
home.
Page 2 of 21
Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
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Introduction .......................................................................................... 2
Getting Started ...................................................................................... 4
Your Adoption Pack ............................................................................................ 4
Microchip, Registration ........................................................................................ 4
ID Tag ............................................................................................................ 5
Desexing ......................................................................................................... 6
Vaccinations .................................................................................................... 6
Common Diseases of Cats (not harmful to humans) ....................................................... 6
Intestinal Worms ............................................................................................... 7
Heartworm ...................................................................................................... 7
Ticks.............................................................................................................. 7
Fleas ............................................................................................................. 7
Dental Care ..................................................................................................... 8
Causes and Preventions of Skin Problems .................................................................. 8
Caring For Your Cat or Kitten ..................................................................... 9
To bath or not to bath? ........................................................................................ 9
Water ............................................................................................................ 9
Feeding .......................................................................................................... 9
Inside or outside ...............................................................................................11
Boredom ........................................................................................................11
Scratching Stimulation .......................................................................................11
Visual Stimulation .............................................................................................12
Play ..............................................................................................................12
Toys .............................................................................................................12
Cat Furniture or Perches .....................................................................................12
Enclosed spaces ...............................................................................................13
Bedding .........................................................................................................13
Reading your cat's body language – from PetRescue.com.au ...........................................14
Safe Car Travel ................................................................................................15
Relocating ......................................................................................................15
What to Do if Your Pet is Lost or Stolen .......................................................16
Who Will Care For Your Pets If You Are Not Able? ...........................................17
Keep In Touch by Email and Facebook .........................................................19
How You Can Help Us ..............................................................................19
Thank You! ..........................................................................................20
NOTES ABOUT MY CAT .............................................................................21
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Getting Started
Two-Week Trial
This trial period is for all our animals, and it gives you a chance to get to know your new
pet and make a decision if your cat is the one for you. You do not become the legal
owner of the animal until the completion of the trial period and the change of owner
document is lodged at council. Maggie’s Rescue remains the legal owner during this
time, and in the unlikely event we find the cat is ill-treated we would be entitled to
have the animal returned. If within this time you decide you don't want to keep the cat,
you may return him to us and receive your money back minus a $50 admin fee. This will
reimburse us for all the time and effort of doing the interview, home check, paperwork,
having the cat unavailable during the trial period for other potential adopters, and
finding a new foster carer. Please read all the details in the Adoption Agreement that
you signed.
After the trial period ends, if we don't hear from you we assume you are keeping your
new cat. We will then complete the change of ownership paperwork and mail it to you
along with her Desexing Certificate and Vaccination Certificate. After a few weeks, you
will receive ownership documentation from council in the mail. Please check all the
details are correct, then file the document in your Adoption Pack.
Your Adoption Pack
You should have received an Adoption Pack with your new cat. It contains your signed
Adoption Contract and a wealth of vital information about caring for your cat. Please
take the time to look at each document and keep the Adoption Pack handy for future
reference. You may also find it useful to store your
cat's veterinary and vaccination records in the
Tips on Cats #1
Adoption Pack folder.
Did you know that not all cats
If you decide to return your cat to Maggie’s Rescue,
will hunt? They learn from
or you give the cat to another owner, please always
their mothers so they tend to
send his Adoption Pack with him.
specialise in what they hunt.
Microchip, Registration
All cats are required by law to be microchipped and Lifetime Registered by 6 months
old. Your adoption fee includes microchipping and registration with the NSW Companion
Animals Register (or for cats living outside of NSW, the National Pet Register). If you
adopted an adult cat your donation also includes council registration.
Your cat’s microchip details will be changed to your contact details after the end of the
two week trial, and confirmation will be mailed to you. If you move house or change
your phone number, email address, or other contact details, it is very important that
you update the relevant Animals Register with your new details so that if your cat gets
lost you can be contacted. NSW requires the change of Address within 14 days. Contact
your local council to do this (there is no charge). If you move out of NSW please check
with your local council for its requirements.
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ID Tag
Almost every animal manages to get out of their yard or out the door at some point in
their life. If this happens to your cat, the easiest way for the person who finds her to
contact you is if your cat is wearing an identification tag on her collar. Remember, your
neighbours cannot read a microchip! It is a legal requirement that your cat wears an ID
tag with your contact details at all times when outside your property. For safety sake,
just keep the collar and tag on at all times. You must keep our Maggie’s Rescue (MR) ID
tag on your cat at all times during the trial period. You should add your own ID tag as
soon as possible. After the trial period you can remove the Maggie’s Rescue ID tag if you
have your own ID tag, or leave it on as a backup.
The tag should contain your phone number (preferably a mobile) and your address.
Here's the link to get a free ID tag for your pet - www.petregister.com.au/tags. Without
an ID tag, a person finding your cat has to go to a lot of trouble to take the cat to a vet
or pound to get the microchip read. Out of business hours this is nearly impossible. Many
people won't bother doing this. They may decide that your cat is a stray and just keep it.
If they surrender your cat to a pound or RSPCA because they can't contact you directly,
then you will have to pay a fine in order to get your cat back. So, save yourself a lot of
worry and make sure your cat wears a collar with an ID tag on it at all times. You never
know when it will be needed.
When your cat does not return from exploring or socialising around the neighbourhood,
you will be very relieved that it has an appropriate identification tag. Other tricks for
successful identification are: always having a current close-up photo of your cat handy
(the shot will need to include any distinctive markings, colouring or coat patterns), and
always keeping a spare collar on hand in case your cat loses the one it is currently
wearing.
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Veterinary & General Health Care
Desexing
All adult cats we re-home have already been desexed.
Vaccinations
Adult cats are vaccinated against the following diseases. Kittens come to you vaccinated
with their 6-week vaccination, and you will need to arrange the 10-week and 14-week
vaccinations.
Common Diseases of Cats (not harmful to humans)
Feline Enteritis -This is the most common life-threatening disease affecting cats. It is
a very contagious viral disease between cats with a high death rate, especially in cats
under 12 months of age. Signs include fever, depression, severe stomach pain, vomiting,
diarrhoea and dehydration.
Feline Respiratory Disease (Cat Flu) - This is a highly contagious disease. Cats of all
age are at risk, especially young kittens, Siamese and Burmese cats. Signs include
sneezing, nasal discharge, runny eyes, coughing, loss of appetite and tongue ulcers. The
Cat Flu can lead to severe dehydration causing death.
Feline Chlamydia - Chlamydia is an organism that causes eye disease, predominantly
seen in kittens up to 9 months of age. The signs of infection are discharge from the eyes
(sticky eye or conjunctivitis) and nose, fever, coughing, respiratory signs, enlarged
lymph nodes, lack of appetite, weight loss and depression. Chlamydia is found in up to
1/3 of cases of conjunctivitis and is transmitted by close and persistent contact between
cats.
Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV) - By attacking the immune system, this virus makes
cats more susceptible to infection and illness as well as prone to developing certain
cancers. Symptoms are non-specific and include weight loss, lethargy and poor health. A
blood test can detect if a cat is infected, however there is no treatment for this fatal
virus.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) - This blood-borne viral infection can cause
serious immune responses that are potentially fatal (although many cats with FIV will
lead healthy, symptom-free lives). Vaccination is available and will be recommended by
our veterinarians if your cat is considered to be at risk. The virus interferes with the
immune system, and initial symptoms such as fever, sores, lesions and diarrhoea can
progress to severe chronic infections as the immune system is overcome. There is no
treatment or cure for the virus itself.
Your kitten will require a course of three vaccinations, which must be completed to be
effective! One week after the third vaccination your kitten can socialise with other
cats.

6 weeks - First Vaccination - Temporary
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 10 Weeks - Booster Vaccination
 14 Weeks - Final Vaccination
The FIV Vaccination can be done later in life also, however cats vaccinated for FIV after
6 months of age will require a blood test prior to vaccination. Adult cats require an
annual vaccination booster for life. You will normally receive a reminder from your vet
when the annual vaccination is due.
Intestinal Worms
Once your kitten is weaned, it is important that you begin treatment for intestinal
worms. Kittens need to be treated every 2 weeks until they are 12 weeks old, then once
a month until 6 months old, then once every 3 months for life. There are several types
of worming tablets that can be bought from pet stores, supermarkets, online or your
vet. There are also products that are used monthly. Please talk to your vet for advice.
Heartworm
Heartworm can affect cats and is spread by mosquitoes. While cats are more resistant to
heartworm infestations than dogs, cats in particular are extremely vulnerable to
heartworm when infested, and even a small number can lead to death.
Your kitten can commence heartworm prevention anytime before 16 weeks of age.
Heartworm prevention is needed for the lifetime of your pet. You can buy worming and
flea treatment products at a vet, pet store or online. Please talk to your vet for advice.
Ticks
Ticks are common and they can be fatal for both dogs and cats. Signs your cat may have
a tick are vomiting, weakness in the back legs, a change in the voice or meow, panting,
loud breathing, even grunting noises. To reduce the risk of your cat getting a tick, use a
tick prevention treatment which can be purchased from pet stores, vets or online. None
of the preventative products are a substitute for checking your cat's fur daily, especially
after she has been outside in the long grass. Most ticks are found around the head and
shoulders but check all over, including between the toes, in the ears and around the
base of the tail.
If you find a tick, contact your vet for advice straight away. We recommend using a tick
hook. They're cheap to buy so you should keep one on hand. After removing one tick, be
sure to search for more. You should keep an eye on your cat for the next two to four
days, keeping him cool and calm while avoiding excitement and exercise.
Fleas
Fleas are more than a nuisance - they can cause serious health problems such as
infections and anaemia that can kill a cat. If your cat
has pale gums, you must tackle your flea problem
immediately. The best primary flea prevention is a
Tips on Cats #2
monthly treatment. Sometimes a cat needs a fast acting
flea treatment to take care of one or more fleas. There
Vacuuming and regular
is a tablet that you can buy from the supermarket, vets
washing of your cat’s
bedding will prevent flea
or pet shops that will kill any active, adult fleas. It is no
infestation from spreading.
substitute for the monthly treatments, however,
because it doesn't interrupt the flea breeding cycle.
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If your garden or home is infested with fleas, you should ring a pest controller for
professional flea treatment of your environment, both indoors and outdoors. You need
to treat the bedding and your cat’s environment for fleas and eggs. If the environment is
not treated, eggs will hatch and reinfest your cat.
If you're sure your cat and environment don't have fleas, but he keeps scratching, your
cat may have an allergy. Refer to the ‘Causes and Preventions of Skin Problems’ section
below, and please consult your vet if problems persist. Don't let your poor cat suffer
with fleas.
Dental Care
Teeth cleaning and gum massage are very important and probably best achieved by
supplying your cat with the appropriate things to chew on. Chewing helps to exercise the
teeth and gums and helps to prevent boredom. A well balanced diet, regular check-ups
and brushing will assist in maintaining good dental health.
Causes and Preventions of Skin Problems
Lots of things can cause your cat’s coat to be dull, or her skin to be dry and flaky. A few
of the most common causes include:
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Poor nutrition. For healthy hair, skin, and body, your cat needs a diet with a
good balance of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats, just like you do. And also just
like you, if your cat eats nothing but poor-quality food that is more difficult to
digest, kitty may end up short on vital minerals and vitamins.
Weight problems. When some cats get fat, they stop being able to reach their
whole bodies for cleaning. This can lead to a dull, unkempt coat.
Age. When cats get old they can become less flexible or arthritic. So, age or pain
could leave your normally fussy feline with a dull, bedraggled coat.
Diabetes, parasites, skin infections, allergies, autoimmune diseases, dry
winter air, or more serious issues can also be responsible for dry skin or a dull
coat. To get behind the reason for your cat’s skin or fur problems, it’s important
to have your cat checked out by a veterinarian.
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Caring For Your Cat or Kitten
To bath or not to bath?
Kittens generally do not require much bathing; however if this becomes necessary,
ensure you use a mild shampoo. Cats' skins are very different to ours. Unless absolutely
necessary, do not bath your cat.
Water
Sorry to state the obvious but… please ensure your cat has access to fresh, clean water
at all times. Provide a bowl inside your home and outside and refresh the water daily.
This is especially important during hot weather. Pet supply shops sell water dispensers
with an upside-down water bottle that automatically fills a bowl. These are very handy,
especially if you tend to forget to check the water daily.
Feeding
Cats are true carnivores, meaning that they need a source of animal protein to survive.
In the wild, cats eat the carcases of the prey animals they catch that consist of raw
meat, raw bones, organs, other tissue and digested vegetable matter. While cats are
carnivores, they do consume a small amount of the vegetable matter contained in the
stomach and intestines of their prey. Cats have adapted over thousands of years to eat
this type of diet.
Basic cat feeding guide:

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Provide some variety.
If using dry food, we highly recommend a premium commercial food available
from your vet or a quality pet supply store. Supermarket pet food is not
recommended for regular use.
If you are using (premium!) dry food, regularly provide some moist foods in the
diet to assist with urinary tract health, such as (quality) wet canned food, fresh
raw lamb or chicken meat.
Offer some unprocessed foods including fresh raw meat (such as pieces of raw
lamb or chicken), and raw meaty bones to assist with healthy teeth and gums.
(See ‘Specific information on raw meat and bones’ below)
Fish, such as tinned sardines in spring water, tinned tuna and tinned salmon (take
care to remove any fish bones) can also be offered as a treat occasionally. Please
avoid feeding the one type of fish constantly.
Cooked meat such as boiled chicken may also be offered occasionally. Please
ensure there are no cooked bones, onions/onion sauces or other toxic substances
present. (see ‘Toxic Foods’ below)
Cats may also be offered a small amount of vegetable matter.
Provide cats with access to grass (avoid chemically treated grass and toxic plants)
- they occasionally eat grass that may be a source of vegetable matter and
micronutrients. Be aware that large amounts of certain types of 'cat grass' can
cause hypervitaminosis D.
The amount of food required will depend on your cat's size and age, but you
should take care not to overfeed or underfeed. Your vet will be able to weigh
your cat, assess her body condition score and provide advice.
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
Adult cats tend to prefer to eat several smaller meals throughout the day/night.
They should ideally be offered food at least 3-4 times per day. Eating smaller
frequent meals has been associated with fewer urinary tract infections.

TOXIC FOODS: Never feed the following foods because they are poisonous to
cats:
• Onions
• Garlic
• Chocolate
• Grapes
• Raisins or sultanas
• Currants
• Nuts including macadamia nuts
• Avocados
• Pits from stone fruit such as apricots, peaches and plums
• Fruit seeds
• Corn cobs
• Coffee or caffeine products (eg tea, cola, chocolate)
• Corncobs
• Tomatoes
• Mushrooms
• Never give your cat cooked bones because they splinter.

Specific information on raw meat and bones
o Raw food offered to cats should always be fresh. Raw meaty bones help to
keep teeth and gums healthy, which has flow-on effects for general health.
Suitable raw meaty bones include raw chicken necks, raw chicken wings,
raw chicken drumsticks, raw lamb shanks.
o Choose human-grade raw meat and raw meaty bones, as pet meat/pet
mince/pet rolls/pet meat and bone products can contain preservatives
which can be detrimental to the cat's health. For example, sulphite
preservative may induce thiamine deficiency, which can be acute and
fatal.
o Too many raw bones may lead to constipation. Generally 1-2 raw meaty
bones may be provided per week with a few days in between each serving.
o The bone must be large enough so that the cat cannot fit the whole bone in
its mouth or swallow the bone whole.
o Always supervise cats when they eat raw bones.
o Avoid large marrow bones, large knuckle bones or bones sawn lengthwise,
as cats may crack their teeth on these.
o Never feed cooked bones, as these may splinter and cause internal damage
or become an intestinal obstruction.
o Please check with your vet that raw bones are suitable for your particular
cat. Some cats with misshapen jaws or dental disease may have difficulty
chewing on raw bones.
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Tips on cats – cows’ milk is good for calves, NOT cats!
Young kittens MUST have milk in order to survive. The weaning process begins
around four weeks of age, but prior to that their only source of nutrition is
milk. It is extremely important that you do not give a young kitten cows’
milk. The best possible milk is from the kitten's own mother. If the kitten is
orphaned and a foster cat can't be found for the kitten, then the kitten will
have to be given a specially designed kitten formula, which can be purchased
from your veterinarian. This is specifically designed for kittens. (Cows’ milk is
suitable for baby cows, who have different nutritional requirements than
kittens).
Environment
Inside or outside
Maggie’s Rescue recommends that all pet cats stay indoors from dusk until dawn. This
saves your cat from the many abscesses and war wounds that result from nocturnal cat
fights. Your cat will also be safeguarded from being run over, and from storms or
fireworks, and your neighbours will appreciate not having to endure the noise of cats
having a fun night out. Cats also cause considerable injury to native wildlife and should
be kept indoors at night to prevent this.
Most of all, you will be able to have more quality time with your beloved pet as he will
live longer and remain healthier! Contrary to popular belief, cats can be trained to be
totally 'indoor' pets. To encourage your cat to become more of a ‘homebody’ (which may
well save his life), try to make your house as stimulating as possible.
Boredom
Keeping a cat indoors has terrific benefits: it minimises the risk of trauma from being hit
by a car, bite wounds from cat fights or attacks by cats, common infectious diseases,
and exposure to toxins just to name a few. On average, indoor-only cats live up to twice
as long as indoor/outdoor cats. Outdoor cats have a life span estimated to be a fraction
of those that live indoor only.
Cats, especially indoor cats, need stimulation and recreation to maintain their good
mental health. So, what does that mean exactly? It means that for some cats to be
‘happy’, and to minimise behavioural problems of indoor cats or multi-cat environments,
it is important that your cat has plenty of toys, places to hide, perch and sleep, places
or things to SCRATCH, things to WATCH, and opportunities to PLAY. It is also important
for cats to have a place that they perceive as safe to eat, drink and eliminate without
being bothered by other pets or young children.
Scratching Stimulation
It is important to have places in your home where your cat is welcome to scratch. This is
especially important for cats with claws, however be aware that cats without claws
retain the identical instinct to ‘scratch’. Scratching allows cats to sharpen their claws,
stretch, shed old nails, and leave their scent.
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Consider what surfaces or locations your cat likes to scratch: does he stretch out when
he scratches? Does he scratch on furniture legs, the backs of fabric chairs, or along the
carpeted floor? This information can help you determine which materials your cat might
prefer (such as cardboard, fabric, carpet or wood), and the surface type (such as
vertical areas or horizontal surfaces). If your cat stretches out when he scratches, make
sure you choose a scratching surface that is tall enough to accommodate him.
Most scratching posts are made out of tree material, cardboard, rope, or fabric and can
all work well. If you don't know what your cat prefers, you may want to try a few
different types to discover your cat’s favourites. A good combination is a cardboard
horizontal scratcher and a vertical carpeted post. Multi-cat households should have
several scratching spots. Make sure the post is secure and cannot be moved or knocked
over. Because scent marking is a part of scratching, cats often like to scratch in common
places in the house where you or other cats spend time. This may include doorways,
bedrooms, kitchens or living rooms and in areas where they spend their time, such as
near favourite sleeping and eating areas.
Visual Stimulation
Cats are often very stimulated by their vision. They love movement, and toys that swing.
A window bed is often a favourite spot for cats to nap or watch the outside
environment. This is especially enjoyable for them if they have a few of a tree or some
natural elements, or the local birdlife. There are commercially-available window
beds, or you can move a chair, secure table or bench next to a window. If a window is
not an option, some cats like nature shows or videos.
Play
Let's consider play. What toys does your cat like: does she prefer toys that mimic birds,
mice or catching bugs? There are many types of toys made for cats and each cat has her
own preferences as to what stimulates her to interact. Favoured toys mimic predatory
acts that cats would perform if they were to hunt for their food. Although your cat may
not need to ‘hunt’, she still enjoy the actions and movements involved with the process
and will create a form of play from this act.
Toys
These don't necessarily have to cost money. They can be something as simple as a paper
bag that your cat is intrigued by, or something dangling from a table. Any ‘dangling’ toy,
with a cork or ping pong ball that can jump around on the end of a string, will keep your
cat entertained for hours. Even flickering a torch light around a room or simply tossing a
scrunched up ball of paper onto the ground seems to do the trick!
Make sure you swap your cat's toys around once in a while so he doesn't get bored.
Whenever possible try to include your cat in your family activities. There are special
harnesses available to take your cat for a walk.
Cat Furniture or Perches
Some authorities estimate that cats need about 500 square feet (45 square metres) per
cat to minimise behavioural problems. One way to help make a cat's environment richer,
bigger, and safer is to give them some extra vertical surfaces. Perches are simply a high
area with a view or vantage point.
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Cats love to climb, and high places make them feel secure. From a high spot, cats can
watch their environment and identify both prey and predator. Although your cat may be
indoors only and out of reach of prey or predator, cats don't lose this instinct. Cats feel
most vulnerable when they sleep and generally prefer higher areas, such as a cat tree or
perch, for their naps. Multiple perches or cat trees are ideal, as some cats prefer to
watch their environment from a variety of vantage points. This is especially important in
multi-cat households as more than one cat can ‘perch’ at a time. Windowsill perches are
also good.
Cat trees and perches come in a variety of sizes, styles and colours. The most common
cat tree is made of carpet and some form of pegs to hold the horizontal surfaces. They
can vary in size, with lots of branches and spots to sleep, play, or rest. They can be
combined with beds, attached dangling toys, and scratching posts. Perches can be in or
on a cat tree, on a piece of furniture such as a dresser or bed, or on a table. Try
searching eBay for one at a great price.
If you are out of the house a lot, consider leaving the radio on for some extra
stimulation for your cat. If your cat is determined to keep leaving your property,
consider building a fence (with inward-facing ledges, floppy chicken wire, or hessian
overhangs) to discourage her. Having a close and rewarding relationship with your cat
will help keep her happily housebound.
Enclosed spaces
Cats love to hide, so why not make your cat a 'cubby house'? It can be as simple as a
cardboard box, but if you want to be creative and like to build things, you could make
your cat an indoor tree with a combination of carpet-covered platforms, boxes and
scratching surfaces.
Just make sure your design is sturdy, so it won't be tipped over when your cat engages in
an energetic workout in his own private gym! Also, keep in mind that cats don't like to
be confined for too long.
Bedding
You should provide a cat bed for
every cat in your household. If you
have more than one cat, they may
swap around, but as long as there is
one bed for each cat, fights can be
avoided. Ideally, your cat should
sleep inside. For those times when
she is outside please ensure she has
access to shelter such as a laundry,
garage or a kennel. Make sure your
cat has soft bedding or a trampolinestyle bed. This is needed to avoid
sores and joint pain. Check the
bedding at least every couple of days
to make sure it is clean and dry.
Wash it weekly.
Tips on cats – are your cat’s toys safe?
Toys will make your pet’s life more fun and
provides exercise - however, just like babies,
their toys need to be safe.
Check for
 Toxic or dangerous contents?
 Easily breakable and ingested?
 Lead-based paints?
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Understanding your Cat or Kitten
Reading your cat's body language – from PetRescue.com.au
Cats are sometimes thought of as mysterious creatures whose behaviour cannot be
explained. However, like all intelligent creatures, cats have very specific body language
that pet owners can learn to interpret and use to form a better relationship with their
kitties.
Here are a few examples:

Tail
o
o
o
o
o
When a cat's tail is standing up tall, all is terrific.
When it is at half-mast, all is not terrific.
When it is dropped low, that means, "I'm very unhappy."
When it twitches back and forth, she is saying, "Back off."
When only the tip twitches, she is trying to tell you that she is selfconscious of her behaviour.
o When it's bushy, she means, "I'm angry!"

Ears
A cat's ears can communicate volumes. Here are some of the translations of your
cat's ear movements:
o Ears alert/straight up means, "I'm ready for fun or affection."
o Ears flat out sideways means, "What's up?"
o Ears downward is a warning; she means, "I'm defensive. Watch out!"
o Ears down and back is an alarm; she is saying, "I'm furious. Watch out!"

Eyes
Your cat uses her eyes as another method of communication:
o Eyes wide open and looking at you means, "I'm listening."
o Eyes half closed means, "I'm sleepy."
o Eye pupils in slits tell you that she is feeling alert and confident.
o Bug-eyed looks mean, "I'm frightened"...so be careful!
o If she is blinking and winking at you, she is talking to you and saying, "I love
you."
o If her eyes are clouded, then she is telling you that she is ill or just very
relaxed.
o Eyes staring straight at you mean, "Stay away." A stare is a challenge.
Make sure to take a few minutes every day to have a conversation with your cat.
The sound of your voice will help your cat become responsive and friendly.
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Moving around
Safe Car Travel
Did you know, it is illegal in NSW to have an unrestrained animal in your car and can
result in a fine and loss of points? Illegal or not, it is not safe for you or your cat to have
an unrestrained cat in your car. To safely travel with your cat anywhere, part of your
Cat Kit must be to have a carrier, often called a crate. This is a special pet cage or box
into which you put your cat. This allows your cat to be safe as well as comfortable. Just
be sure to attach the carrier to the car in some way so that it doesn't go flying in case of
an accident or sudden braking. You can slip it under a fastened shoulder belt in the back
seat and secure it with a carabiner or clip, or else use a seat belt tether.
Using a crate has the advantage of confining any mess to the crate (and not your car
seats) if your cat gets carsick. A puppy-training pad will make it more comfortable for
him and soak up any urine. Also, if your cat is meowing in the car, covering the crate so
he can't see out may calm him. A pet carrier is also a good investment because when it
is not being used in the car it can be used to isolate the cat if he is ill or needs to visit
the vet.
Relocating
If you are relocating to a new home, please remember this can be a difficult and
dangerous time for all your pets. Cats generally need to settle in to a new environment
for at least 2 or 3 weeks before they consider it ‘home’. During this period they may
become agitated and seek to return to what they think of as home (your old place). It is
very important to keep your new home secure until this settling-in period has been
achieved.
When you arrive at your new home, please check around for anything dangerous such as
rodent baits, sharp edges, nails or broken windows, particularly up high where your cat
may be exploring and could have escaped your notice.
Also, after relocating, your cat may lose her appetite for a while. This is normal, and a
bit of extra attention and lots of hugs will help make your new home easier to settle in
to.
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What to Do if Your Pet is Lost or Stolen
Adapted from the Australasian Animal Registry www.aar.org.au//owners/owner-faqs.html
1. Search the neighbourhood.
 Circle the area the animal was last seen, calling and whistling. Make the circle
bigger and bigger, asking people as you see them to help.
 Make familiar sounds, such as tapping the side of a food can and calling out her
name.
 Make up a poster with your cat's photo and your contact details including your
mobile phone number.
 Ask local shopkeepers to display your poster, and attach posters to power poles in
the area.
 Make up an A5-sized flyer and put it in letter boxes.
 Go door knocking with your flyer - consider offering a reward.
 Tell your neighbours and enlist their help to search for your pet.
 Be sure to check in ceilings, buildings, trees etc.
2. Ring all your local vets to see if your cat has been left with them. Phone or visit
regularly, and leave a flyer displaying a photo and all of the cat’s information.
Since he may have been picked up in a vehicle, extend the search to 20km or
more.
3. Contact your local council and adjoining councils and the Australian Animal
Registry to notify them that the cat has been lost so this can be logged. Ensure all
your details are up to date so you can be contacted as soon as the animal is
found.
4. Contact Maggie’s Rescue immediately for help and advice.
5. Visit all the local council pounds and animal shelters. Be sure to leave all details
including registration details, colour, age, size, tag and microchip so they can
look for your pet. Visit these places yourself every couple of days. DO NOT rely on
the staff there to identify your pet or notify you. Do not rely on them to contact
you, even if your pet is microchipped. Extend your search to include the pounds
of adjoining council areas.
6. Place an ad in the lost/found section of your local newspaper to widen the
search. Don't forget to check the found section in case your cat has been located.
There are also websites on which you can look for the details of your pet.
7. Join your local Facebook group – most local government areas have several – and
these are very helpful in assisting with finding your pet.
Useful links for help finding lost cats:
www.petfinders.com.au
www.wherepetsarefound.com.au
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Who Will Care For Your Pets If You Are Not Able?
Who will care for your pets if you get taken to hospital in an emergency, or go into a
nursing home? These questions are especially important if you live alone or away from
family and friends. Think about what you want to happen to your pets and make
arrangements now.
At Maggie’s Rescue, we sometimes rescue pets from pounds that were surrendered
because their owner died. This is tragic because there is no doubt that the deceased
person would be horrified if they knew that their beloved pet had wound up in a pound
and was facing euthanasia.
People going into nursing homes who can no longer care for their pets often approach
rescue groups. We help if we can, but if we don't have a foster carer available then
there is nothing we can do.
One rescue group was asked to rescue two small dogs that had spent more than 6 weeks
locked in a filthy garage after their elderly owner went into hospital. She had made
arrangements for the dogs to be fed in the expectation that she would be returning
home in a few days, but she did not realise that due to her dementia she could never
return home.
These sad stories teach us the importance of making proper arrangements for the care
of your pets now, before an emergency arises. This is especially important if you live
alone. Don't rely on others to do the right thing if you have not spoken to them and
gained their agreement.
You should include your wishes for the care of your pets in your Will, but you mustn't
rely on this. It could be weeks before your Will is found and read, and by that time it
could be too late for your pets. Steps you can take now:

Talk to your relatives and trusted friends and try to get someone to agree to take
charge of your pets if you are unable to care for them. How long could your pets
live without food and water if you are not providing for them? If you live alone,
you should be in contact with someone every few days. If you are unwell or frail
you may consider using the Red Cross service that calls you each day to see you
are OK. They can be contacted on www.redcross.org.au/youll-never-wakealone.aspx

Give them the contact details of a trusted neighbour to contact if they are unable
to reach you. Give them a list of other friends and relatives to contact. If you are
taken away in an ambulance, your neighbours will know before your friends and
relatives. Assign someone to pick up your pets from your home as soon as
possible.

Give specific instructions to the person you've chosen to take charge of your pets.
If they are unable to adopt your pets themselves, give them clear instructions
Page 17 of 21
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about rehoming them. Refer to the ‘Placing Your Pet in a New Home’ section in
this document below. Ask them never to surrender your pets to the local pound or
RSPCA. Consider leaving them some money in your Will to use to either to care for
your pets indefinitely or for helping to find them a new home. Tell them you have
done this.

If you got your pet from Maggie’s Rescue, make sure that we are contacted. We
will be able to help with rehoming, and if necessary can take the animal back.

If you don't have a friend or neighbour who will do this for you, contact local
rescue organisations, kennels and catteries for help. If you are able to provide
funds for the support or rehoming of your pets then they should be able to help.

Talk to your neighbours about what you want to be done with your pets if you
should be taken away in an ambulance. Give them the contact details of your
friend or relative who has agreed to be responsible your pets.

Write a big note and place it in a prominent position(s) in your home giving
instructions to police or ambulance personnel about who to contact to look after
your pets. List your pets and where they can be found around your home, eg. dog
or birds in the yard, cat outside, lizard in a spare bedroom, small dog elsewhere
in the home.

Keep a note in your purse or wallet with immediate contacts – next of kin for you,
person who will look after your pets. If you end up in hospital unexpectedly, the
first things the nurses will do is look in your purse or wallet for people to contact.
Placing Your Pet in a New Home
If one day in the future you can no longer care for the pet that you adopted from
Maggie’s Rescue, your first step should be to contact us for advice and assistance. Ring
1300 368 398 or check our website www.maggiesrescue.org for the latest contact
details. We can advertise your pet for adoption on our website and on a national pet
adoption website.
You can also try to find a new home for your pet yourself, however you need to consult
Maggie’s Rescue on this as it is in your signed adoption agreement that if you are unable
to care for your cat you must return him to the rescue. Upon signing the adoption
agreement you agreed to “not surrender, give away or sell this pet to anyone other than
Maggie’s Rescue Co-Operative Ltd.”
We have made a commitment to your cat and will always take him back! Please never
surrender your cat to a pound, your local council or to the RSPCA. It doesn't matter how
many years ago you adopted him from us, we will take him back. We are always here to
help you! Surrendering your cat to the pound, local council, or RSPCA could mean your
beautiful cat will be put down.
WE ARE A NO-KILL ORGANISATION – WE HOLD ALL OUR ANIMALS UNTIL THEIR NEW HOME
IS FOUND.
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Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
Charitable Fundraising Number CFN/22420 www.maggiesrescue.org nswenquiries@maggiesrescue.org
We Are Here to Help and Support You and Your Pet
Maggie’s Rescue can help you at any time with any concerns or questions you may have.
Please don't hesitate to contact us if you need advice or help looking after your cat. We
will always take your cat back, no matter how long ago you adopted her. Please contact
us at any time.
Current contact details can be found on our website www.maggiesrescue.org, or email
us at nswenquiries@maggiesrescue.org.
Keep In Touch by Email and Facebook
We love to hear how your Maggie’s Rescue Pet is doing! Send us a photo and a story
about your pet and we'll add it to the ‘Success Stories’ pages of our website.
Share photos and stories about your new cat! Learn all our latest news, events, and
chitchat on our Facebook page www.facebook.com/MaggiesRescue. If you have a
Facebook account please go to our page and click on the ‘Like’ button. If you haven't
joined Facebook yet, you can still read our page, but you won't be able to add your own
posts.
Visit our website www.maggiesrescue.org from time to time to find out what we've been
doing.
How You Can Help Us
Maggie’s Rescue is a non-profit organisation made up of individuals who work to save
dogs and cats from euthanasia and find them permanent homes. We are only able to do
this vital work thanks to the kindness and generosity of fellow dog and cat lovers such as
you. If you are happy with your new pet and would like to help us save more pets, there
are so many ways you can help us:

Become a Dog or Cat Foster Carer – our work relies on foster carers who provide
temporary homes for the pets we rescue from the pound until we find permanent
homes for them.

Buy or Sell Fundraising Chocolates – We have boxes of Cadbury Fundraising
Chocolates that you can sell amongst your family and friends, at your workplace,
local shops, neighbourhood centre, gym, children’s schools, etc. It costs you
nothing and helps us a lot.

Buy Our Merchandise – Maggie’s Rescue is setting up an online shop (coming soon!)
for all kinds of pet supplies.
Page 19 of 21
Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
Charitable Fundraising Number CFN/22420 www.maggiesrescue.org nswenquiries@maggiesrescue.org

Put Out A Donation Tin - Do you work in a shop, school or office where you could
put one of our donation tins for us? Or maybe you could ask one of the businesses
you visit, such as your gym, hairdresser, doctor, church, school, etc. to put out a
tin for us.

Spread the Word – distribute our pamphlets or put up our flyers at your
workplace, local shops, neighbourhood centre, library, gym, schools, anywhere
you go. Put a link to our website on your website. Contact us for a supply of
business cards, posters and/or flyers or download posters and flyers to print from
our website.

Volunteer. Donate Your Time or Skills – Whatever your skills, we can use them.
Talk to us about the possibilities.

Help with Pet Transport – We need people to pick up dogs and cats from the
pound, deliver them to foster carers, take them to the vet, to groomers, to their
new homes and more.

Donate Goods – We are always in need of items such as: dog/cat food,
puppy/kitten food, puppy/kitten milk, dog/cat beds, kennels, crates, dog coats,
toys, balls, towels, blankets, sheets, etc.

Donate Money – Our vet bills are thousands of dollars each month plus we have
other expenses such as pet food and supplies. All of our funding comes from
donations and from dog/cat adoption fees that often don’t fully cover the cost of
an animal’s care, so we are always very grateful for monetary contributions.

You can donate directly:
ANZ Bank
Account Name: MAGGIES RESCUE CO-OPERATIVE LTD
BSB: 012301
Account Number: 454502937
Thank You!
Finally, thank you very, very much for giving your cat a second chance at life! By
adopting a rescued cat in need of a new home (instead of buying from a pet shop or
breeder) you are helping to reduce the demand for kittens from unethical breeders and
saving the life of a homeless cat. Your cat faced certain death before being rescued
from the pound, so by giving him a home you have literally saved his life! I'm sure he will
reward you with many years of unconditional love and loyalty.
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Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
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NOTES ABOUT MY CAT
Make yourself some notes about your cat – include:
Date of birth, breed, where you got him from, microchip number, preferred vet, dates
of vaccinations, vet visits, flea and worm treatment dates, allergies, preferences, etc
Page 21 of 21
Maggie's Rescue Co-Operative Ltd ABN 81 412716 367 NSWC29298
Charitable Fundraising Number CFN/22420 www.maggiesrescue.org nswenquiries@maggiesrescue.org