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Lawn Care Tips
Fescue Care
Fescue is referred to as a cool-season grass. As the name implies, cool-season grasses can endure cold
temperatures but decline in summer's heat. For many years, Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue was the only fescue widely used
as a turf grass. It is a tall growing, clumping grass that has a rather coarse texture. Today, there are numerous turftype fescues available. Turf-type fescues are improved fescue varieties. They have finer blades and deeper, more
vigorous root systems. As a general rule, they are more disease and drought resistant. They can also tolerate shade
and temperature extremes better than some of the older fescue varieties.
BENEFITS: Fescue's coarse texture and fast germination make it an excellent grass for erosion control. It can also
tolerate compacted soil, like our Georgia red clay; it stands up to heavy foot traffic, making it a good choice for play
areas or sports venues; and it stays green all year.
DETERRENTS: Fescue is intolerant to our hot, dry summer weather. It must be watered frequently during the summer
months or it will quickly turn brown. This makes it necessary to overseed your lawn annually to supplement areas that
were weakened or damaged by the heat.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS: Sun to light shade.
WATER REQUIREMENTS: After sowing Fescue seed, do not allow the seed bed to dry out. It should be kept moist at
all times until the seed germinates. After the grass sprouts, fescue requires at least one to two inches of water per
week. To measure how much water you are applying, use a rain gauge or a six ounce tuna can. When filled to the top,
a tuna can holds two inches of water. During the summer months, you may need to water even more often. To
determine if your grass needs water, step on it. If it doesn't spring back, water it! Don't just sprinkle a little water over
your lawn. For best results, water the grass thoroughly and deeply.
After installation, water FESCUE SOD about every two to three days, depending on the temperature. It will take about
three weeks for it to completely root into the ground. Once the sod is well-rooted, it will require at least one to two
inches of water per week.
MOWING HEIGHT: Maintain fescue at a height of approx 2 inches. Mow regularly. Fescue grass will weaken if
allowed to grow too tall and will burn out if it is mowed too short.
WHEN TO PLANT: For best results, plant fescue seed from mid-February through mid-April or from mid-September
through mid-November. The mild days and cool nights that occur during these time periods encourage strong root
development. The stronger the root system, the better the grass can withstand our summertime temperatures. Fescue
sod is widely available from mid-January until May.
PLANTING SPECIFICATIONS: Before planting, till the area, then smooth the planting surface with a rake. Sow the
fescue seed at a depth of 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. If overseeding with Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue, use 5 pounds of seed per
1000 square feet. Use 10 pounds of Kentucky 31 per 1000 square feet if planting a new lawn. When planting turf-type
fescue seed, use approximately 8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet. It will take about 14 days for the seed to
germinate if sown at the proper time of year.
FERTILIZER: Apply fertilizer to fescue grass two to three times per year.
In October, apply a fertilizer formulated especially for the fall season. These products are designed to strengthen the
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root system and prevent winter injury to your lawn.
In late February or early March, apply a slow release lawn food high in nitrogen. This fertilizer will promote a healthy
green color and will feed your lawn for about two months. Apply a second application of slow release fertilizer in early
to mid-May.
If seeding or sodding, apply a starter fertilizer instead. Starter fertilizers stimulate strong, vigorous root growth and
accelerate the maturity of your new lawn.
Do not apply fertilizer to fescue grass during the summer months! Fertilizer promotes rapid growth and that would only
put extra stress on the root system during the hot summer months. Fertilizing in the summer also encourages the
development of fungus on fescue grass.
WEED CONTROL: The best way to get rid of weeds is to prevent them in the first place. Apply a crabgrass preventer
between February 15 and March 15. These pre-emergent products put a barrier on the soil that prevents crabgrass
and certain other weed seeds from germinating. If desired, spread a second application of crabgrass preventer in May
to prevent late crabgrass and certain summer weeds from developing.
A word of warning. Crabgrass preventers will also prevent grass seed from germinating, so if you plan to plant fescue
seed in the spring, do not apply a crabgrass preventer to your lawn. If necessary, you can apply a lawn weed control
on growing weeds before temperatures exceed 90 degrees.
Bermuda Care
BERMUDA GRASS is one of the best choices for a hot, sunny climate.
BENEFITS: Bermuda germinates quickly and grows vigorously. It produces a fine-textured and dense turf. It is a
resilient, wear-resistant turf and is often planted in golf courses and athletic fields. Bermuda spreads rapidly by surface
and underground stolons or runners. It has excellent heat and drought tolerance. Bermuda goes dormant in the winter,
resulting in less maintenance.
DETERRENTS: If not edged properly, Bermuda can invade your flower beds and planting sites. Because it grows so
rapidly, Bermuda requires frequent mowing and periodic thatch removal. Bermuda needs full sun. It has poor shade
tolerance.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS: Full sun.
WATER REQUIREMENTS: Seed beds should be kept moist until germination. Bermuda sod should be watered every
day or every two days until fully rooted into the ground. Thereafter, provide one to two inches of water per week.
MOWING HEIGHT: Bermuda should be kept short. Maintain Bermuda grass at 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches tall.
WHEN TO PLANT: Sow Bermuda seed from mid-May through mid-August. Technically, Bermuda sod can be laid out
year-round. For best results, however, lay out Bermuda sod from mid-March through November.
PLANTING SPECIFICATIONS: Sow Bermuda seed at a planting depth of 1/4 inch, using two to three pounds of seed
per 1000 square feet. Bermuda seed is very fine, so it is a good idea to mix the seed with sand for a more uniform
distribution. Bermuda germinates quickly, usually in seven to ten days. Under the proper conditions, it can become
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fully established in 60 to 90 days.
A word of caution. Do not combine Bermuda seed and Bermuda sod. Most Bermuda sod varieties are hybrids and do
not mix well with the grass from common Bermuda seed, because they have a different appearance and texture.
FERTILIZER: Bermuda thrives on fertilizer. You should apply fertilizer to Bermuda two to three times during the
growing season. In April, it will start to come out of its dormant state. When it is about 50% green, apply a slowrelease, high nitrogen fertilizer to your lawn. Make a second application about six to eight weeks later or as directed on
the bag. A third application in another six weeks may be desired. Apply a "winterizer" to Bermuda in late October to
prevent winter injury.
WEED CONTROL: To prevent winter weeds like poa annua, apply a crabgrass preventer to your Bermuda lawn in late
September or early October. Apply it again in February to prevent crabgrass and certain other broadleaf weeds. A
healthy, well-fed Bermuda lawn rarely has a weed problem. If weeds do develop, apply a lawn weed killer in June to
control growing weeds.
Zoysia Care
There are two popular varieties of Zoysia: Meyer and Emerald.
BENEFITS: Meyer Zoysia forms a dense carpet that is extremely wear-resistant. It is often used in lawns
and golf courses. It has a bluish-green color and a medium blade texture. Meyer Zoysia has better cold and
drought tolerance than Emerald Zoysia.
Emerald Zoysia is a hybrid variety with a dark, emerald green color and a finer, more wiry blade texture.
Emerald Zoysia is moderately shade tolerant. It has a low growth habit which requires less mowing and also
stands up well to foot traffic.
When properly maintained, both varieties of Zoysia form a dense turf that virtually chokes out weeds. Both
go dormant and turn a straw color in the winter, providing good color contrast in the landscape.
DETERRENTS: Zoysia seed germinates very slowly, so most Zoysia in our part of the country is available
only in sod. Unless you are very patient, you should cover the entire planting site with Zoysia sod, because it
can take up to 12 months for sprigs or plugs to merge and cover an area. Zoysia is especially slow growing
if planted in too much shade. Zoysia requires frequent watering. It is less drought tolerant than some other
types of turf grasses. Zoysia will develop an excessive layer of thatch if over-fertilized. Occasional edging is
needed to prevent invasion into your planting areas.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS: Full sun to moderate shade. Of the two types of Zoysia, Emerald performs best in
light to moderate shade. Deep shade will cause both Meyer and Emerald Zoysia to thin out.
WATER REQUIREMENTS: Water Zoysia sod every day or every other day until it is well-rooted into the
soil. Thereafter, provide 1 1/2 to 2 inches of water per week.
WHEN TO PLANT: For best results, plant Zoysia sod from mid-May until mid-August.
MOWING HEIGHT: Maintain Zoysia at one to two inches in height. You can allow it to grow slightly taller on
slopes.
FERTILIZER REQUIREMENTS: Apply a slow-release, high nitrogen fertilizer to Zoysia in the spring when it
is coming out of its dormant state and is about 50% green. Apply a second application about eight weeks
later. In mid to late October, apply a winterizer to your Zoysia lawn to help prevent winter injury.
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WEED CONTROL: To prevent winter weeds like poa annua, apply a crabgrass preventer to Zoysia grass in
early October. Apply a second application in mid to late February to prevent crabgrass and certain other
weeds. A healthy, well-maintained Zoysia lawn will rarely develop a weed problem because the turf is so
dense that the weeds don't have much room to grow. If weeds do manage to get through, remove them by
hand or apply a lawn weed killer to your lawn according to package directions. Read the label and make
sure that the weed killer you select can be safely used on Zoysia grass. Also, don't wait until the hottest part
of the summer to apply the weed killer. Herbicides work best when temperatures are 85°F or less.
Centipede Care
Centipede grass is sometimes referred to as the "lazy person's grass" because it requires less maintenance
than most other types of turf grasses.
BENEFITS: Centipede "hugs" the ground and requires very little mowing. It develops into a dense, weedresistant turf. It performs best in acidic soils with low fertility, so you rarely need to apply lime or fertilizer to a
Centipede lawn. Centipede goes dormant in the winter, resulting in even less maintenance.
DETERRENTS: Centipede does not favor extremely cold temperatures. It is relatively slow growing and
does not withstand foot traffic as well as other turf varieties. Centipede has a rough, rather coarse blade. It
often requires fertilizers and chemicals specific to Centipede grass. Products that can be used on other turf
grasses may damage a Centipede lawn.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS: Full sun or dappled shade.
WATER REQUIREMENTS: Water Centipede sod every day or every other day until it is fully rooted into the
ground. An established Centipede lawn can tolerate periodic droughts, but performs best when it receives
one to two inches of water per week.
MOWING HEIGHT: Maintain Centipede at about 1 inch high. In the dead of summer, you may allow the
grass to grow to 2 inches in height. Do not mow Centipede at all in drought situations.
WHEN TO PLANT: Plant Centipede seed from mid-May until early August. Centipede sod is available from
May through September.
PLANTING SPECIFICATIONS: Plant Centipede seed at a depth of 1 inch and at a rate of 1 pound per 1000
square feet. Centipede seed is even smaller than Bermuda seed, so to get uniform coverage, mix the seed
with sand before you put it in your spreader. Centipede will germinate in approximately 21 days.
FERTILIZER: Feed your Centipede only once during the growing season, just after it greens up in the
spring. The fertilizer should have moderate amounts of nitrogen and potassium, but no phosphorous, such
as a 15-0-15 or and 18-0-18. Overfertilizing can weaken Centipede. In October, apply a winterizer to prevent
winter injury.
WEED CONTROL: Apply a crabgrass preventer in October to control poa annua and in February to prevent
crabgrass. Growing weeds can be controlled with a lawn weed control formulated especially for Centipede
grass.
Troubleshooting Tips
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The best way to control diseases in any type of lawn is to keep it healthy and well-maintained. Water, mow
and feed your lawn as necessary and problems will rarely develop. If problems do develop, the following
checklist may be helpful.
SMALL BROWN PATCHES: Small brown spots or circles in an otherwise green lawn are usually caused by
Brown Patch or Dollar Spot. Dollar Spot and Brown Patch are fungal diseases that often appear in lawns
that are stressed by our summer weather conditions, including high humidity and/or drought. To control
these diseases, treat your lawn with an appropriate fungicide, according to package directions. Once the
disease is brought under control, make sure that your lawn is properly watered and maintained throughout
the growing season.
BROWN STREAKS OR IRREGULAR BROWN PATCHES: This problem is generally caused by uneven
fertilizer application. Too much fertilizer in any one area can cause burning. Time usually takes care of the
problem. To prevent the problem in the future, try not to overlap the rows as you spread your fertilizer.
BROWNING OF THE ENTIRE LAWN: Too little water is usually the culprit. Fescue grass is especially
susceptible to our hot, dry summers. If your grass has a gray appearance or doesn't spring back when you
step on it, it needs a deep, thorough watering.
AREAS OF DEAD TURF THAT CAN EASILY BE LIFTED: You can blame this problem on beetle grubs.
When temperatures warm up, beetle grubs begin feeding on the roots of the grass. If you notice these
grubs, treat your lawn with an appropriate insecticide or milky spore powder. Allowing the grubs to reach
adulthood can bring even more problems. Adult Japanese Beetles are insatiable eaters and can damage the
leaves and flowers on many of the plants in your landscape. Fewer grubs mean healthier grass and fewer
destructive beetles.
THINNING TURF: Too much shade. All types of grass need a minimum of six hours of sunlight per day to
thrive. If you have an area that receives less than six hours of sunlight, consider planting a shade-tolerant
ground cover instead of grass.
Grasscycling Lawn Care
WHAT IS IT?
Grasscycling is a term created by lawn care professionals that describes the natural recycling of grass
clippings by simply leaving them on the lawn after mowing. The grass plant's nutrients are then recycled into
the soil with the added benefit of helping lawns become healthier.
By encouraging grasscycling, we have the potential to save more than 10 percent of the total municipal
landfill space. This is a tremendous achievement when we consider that only paper, at 35.6 percent, takes
up more landfill space than yard waste.
Grasscycling is an opportunity for the individual citizen to make a difference in protecting the environment.
Unlike recycling programs for paper, glass and plastic, grasscycling can be undertaken by each homeowner
on his own turf - with no added costs - and many savings.
IS IT GOOD FOR THE LAWN?
Grasscycling is sound turfgrass management. The return of grass clippings to the lawn and to the soil has
always been considered by turf experts as a natural step in the proper maintenance of a lawn.
University tests prove that grass clippings are 85 percent water and break down quickly, returning 20
percent of the nitrogen to the soil. A mowing season's worth of clippings is equal to about one application of
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a commercial fertilizer. And studies show that clippings don't create a thatch problem. Thatch is caused by
mowing too low, watering frequently and lightly, and using a high-percentage of fast-release fertilizer.
Thatch is a layer of dead grass and debris that accumulates on the surface of the soil. A half-inch layer of
thatch is beneficial because it helps hold moisture in the earth, and because it cushions the ground to help
prevent compaction. But a thicker layer of thatch can cause serious problems by blocking the movement of
air, water and nutrients to grass roots.
MOWING TIPS
Thatch is not a problem in a properly mowed lawn. Letting the grass grow too high, then cutting it too low
(scalping), violates the One-Third Rule - mow only one-third of the height of a grass blade in any one
mowing. When following the One-Third Rule, every mower is a mulching mower because the clippings are
short enough to break down fast and disappear.
If a rainy season or a vacation trip interferes with the One-Third Rule, then a mulching mower can make long
clippings into short ones by holding them in the mowing chamber longer.
Convertible-type mulching mowers can adapt to the changing needs of a lawn. You can mulch in spring
when grass grows fast and high side discharge or mulch in summer when growth slows down. When in
doubt, mow on the high side.
10 REASONS TO GRASSCYCLE
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Grasscycling improves lawn quality.
Grasscycling saves time and work.
Clippings contribute only .03 inches of thatch per year.
Grass clippings won't damage lawns.
Grasscycling does not spread lawn disease.
Clippings are too wet to incinerate.
Lawn care services recommend grasscycling.
All lawn mowers can grasscycle.
Collecting clippings is becoming more expensive.
Grasscycling is a responsible environmental practice.
Turfgrasses are environmentally important. They cool and clean our environment, protect soils and
groundwaters, absorb noise and carbon dioxide while providing beautiful and superior recreational surfaces.
Grasscycling provides an environmentally important opportunity for citizens to participate in curbside waste
reduction.
Fertilizing Your Lawn
WHAT IS FERTILIZER?
Fertilizer is a substance added to the soil to improve its fertility. Many elements contribute to a soil's fertility.
There are three major elements which are needed by plants: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium
(K). These elements are needed in large quantities and are not readily available in most soils.
There are also thirteen minor elements which can be found in varying degrees in fertilizer: zinc, manganese,
boron, iron, sulfur, copper, magnesium, molybdenum, and chlorine. These elements are less important than
major elements; they are simply not needed in such an abundance.
The right fertilizer analysis in the soil is important for several reasons. First, a healthy plant fights insect and
fungus damage much better than an unhealthy one. Second, proper fertilization promotes more consistent
plant growth and bloom development. Third, it encourages better root development.
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HOW MUCH FERTILIZER DO I NEED?
The amount of fertilizer needed depends on the current analysis in your soil. It is advisable to obtain a soil
test kit from your local county extension office and test your soil at least every other year.
WHAT DO THE NUMBERS ON THE FERTILIZER BAG MEAN?
There are three numbers listed on each bag of fertilizer. These are literal percentages of N-P-K that are in
that bag of fertilizer. For instance, if the numbers read 31-3-10, 31% of the bag is nitrogen, 3% is
phosphorus, and 10% is potassium. The numbers will always be printed in the same order N-P-K. Very
often, the numbers do not add up to 100%. Other minor elements and fillers can also be included in the bag.
WHAT DOES EACH MAJOR ELEMENT DO?
NITROGEN
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Promotes vigorous blade, leaf and stem growth.
Encourages dark green color.
Assists in chlorophyll production.
Improves overall plant health, quality, and density.
Aids in tolerance to heat, cold, and drought stress.
PHOSPHORUS
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Promotes early plant development
Hastens plant maturity.
Promotes bloom and root development..
POTASSIUM
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Improves tolerance to drought, disease and heat
Increases winter hardiness.
Aids in water uptake.
Enhances overall health and vigor.
WHAT EFFECT DOES LIME HAVE ON FERTILIZER?
Just because fertilizer is in the soil doesn't mean that the plant is able to use it. When a soil's pH is too low
(below 6.0) or too high (above 7.0), it can severely limit the plants ability to take in the fertilizers nutrients.
Lime is the most effective soil treatment to correct the low pH problem that is predominant in Atlanta's red
clay soil. Forty pounds of lime per 1000 square feet annually is generally recommended.