Lawn Care According to Charles
Updated 3/6/06
This information is provided per your own request. The steps outlined will provide you
with a green healthy lawn in the St. Louis area if followed. If you choose to follow only
some of the recommended steps, I take no responsibility for the results. This is the most
economical (in terms of both labor and dollars invested) lawn care program which I can
find. Years of careful trial and error research have gone into development of this
program and it really, really works. Caution – if you follow this program, your grass will
grow. You will have to cut it. Frequently! However, you will also have one of the
nicest, greenest, healthiest lawns in your neighborhood and they will all be envious.
Good luck and call with any questions.
Timeframe
Activity
Mid – August
Kill all the weeds and undesirable grass in your yard. I
recommend Ortho Weed B Gone or similar liquid weed killer.
Apply per directions on the package with a hose end sprayer. This
will make your lawn ugly. Be prepared and tell your neighbors
you’re just getting started.
Early September
Begin watering twice weekly in preparation for seeding and
aeration. You need to soften up the ground to properly aerate.
Early September
When the weather breaks (cools down from the August heat) rent
an aerator and aerate your lawn. Go over it twice. You can
probably talk your neighbors into sharing the cost by sharing the
machine.
Early September
Immediately following aeration, apply seed. I recommend Jaguar
II, Jaguar III or similar top quality turf type fescue for sunny areas.
In heavy shade, apply creeping red fescue combined with Derby
Rye. You can mix in some top quality blue grass, but be prepared
to lose it next summer when it gets hot and humid. With the seed,
apply a starter fertilizer.
Following Seed
Water like crazy. Daily to keep the seed moist and help it
germinate. Mow as required at your top mower setting minus one
notch.
Three weeks later
Apply a single application of winter fertilizer. I recommend use of
any winterizing fertilizer except the Scott’s products as their
nitrogen level is higher than I like. I’ve had good luck with the
Fertilome brand and also with the off brands from the discount
stores manufactured by Lesco. Continue to water. Once your seed
is established ( two mowings of the new seedlings) cut watering to
three times a week. A slow soaking is best.
Three Weeks Later
Apply a second application of winterizing fertilizer. This is a
relatively low Nitrogen fertilizer and will provide good doses of
the other nutrients as well. Continue to water and mow frequently
(no more than 1” removed per cutting) until the grass turns
dormant following the first long hard freeze (usually sometime in
December). The later in the year, the lower you should cut the
grass. This prevents the grass from laying over and the tops from
dying off and creating thatch conditions during the winter. It also
allows the leaves to blow away into your neighbors yards.
Remember, when cutting, either mulch the grass or leave the
clippings on the yard. But do not allow a thick mat of freshly cut
grass to sit on top of the yard. If you follow this program, you’ll
get no thatch and require no raking. The key is proper frequent
cutting and appropriate timing of fertilizer and weed control
applications.
Mid Winter
Yes, that’s right. Usually around mid January or Late December
when no snow is on the yard, but after we have had a long cold
spell with the ground frozen. Following the snow melt and before
the next freeze or snowfall, apply Urea Nitrogen fertilizer at the
rate of 50 lbs/12,000 square feet of lawn area. You can buy the
Urea fertilizer at the grain elevator in Valley Park. It costs about
$10 per 50 lb bag. Do not overapply this product, or you will live
your spring life behind your mower.
Mid February
Apply granular crabgrass preventer. I’ve been using the generic
brand, lower nitrogen from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Use the
manufacturer’s recommended application rate. Expect to pay
about $25 per 12,000 square feet of lawn. It’s worth it because
you won’t get crabgrass next August and you won’t feel like you
have to start over again every year.
Late March
Apply Ironite at the recommended dosage, this will keep the grass
a deep green color. By this time, you should be cutting the grass
twice a week (cut when 1” needs to be remove, usually about every
fourth day). It’s worth the extra mowing effort because it keeps
the lawn looking nice and is better for the grass. Cutting 1”
maximum lets the clippings stay on the lawn and they will
disappear naturally, use of a mulching mower is recommended.
You don’t have to collect clippings or rake using this program. In
the spring, reverse the order of your cutting height from what you
did in the fall. Start at the lower limit of what your mower will
handle and gradually raise the cut height as the average
temperature increases. A good rule of thumb is raise one notch per
10 degrees of increased daytime high temperature. By early to mid
June, you should be at the top mower height, this provides
adequate shade to the roots during the hot summer. The lower
height during the early spring generates quick greening and healthy
growth by warming the root zone more quickly. Cut at the top
level until the weather breaks in early September.
Mid to late May
Apply a single application of low nitrogen summer fertilizer.
Kmart has some real cheap 10-10-10 for about $4 per bag. It
works great and you can cut it by 50% and use 2 applications over
a two week period for slower feeding. This application will carry
you through the summer.
Early September
Assuming you’ve killed any weeds during August, aerate, fertilize
with winterizing fertilizer and overseed with Jaguar II, III or
another top quality turf type fescue. Start the program over again.
Second fertilizer application of winterizing fertilizer in Late
September, third application in Mid October, adjust mowing
heights, water frequently on overseeded areas.
Repeat, Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.
Intermediate Items – About every other year, apply Lime to neutralize the effect of
repeated fertilizer applications. Aerate as often, as thoroughly and
when the soil is soft as possible. Do not apply weed and feed
products (they confuse the plants). Spot spray for weeds
throughout the growing season (it takes about 15 minutes once a
month). Only apply broadcast weed killers when you have a
significant area needing treatment. If you run into grubs or other
insect problems, apply treatments per the manufacturer’s
recommendations in late May and mid July (this coincides with the
life cycle pattern of the grubs). With this program, you shouldn’t
run into fungus, but if you do, treat with a fungicide per the
manufacturer’s recommendations. Water in the early part of the
day. Do not water at night. Less frequent, more thorough deep
soaking watering is best for the long term health of your lawn. Use
a broadcast spreader for all applications of products to your lawn
(you get much more even coverage).
That’s about it. Please feel free to call or come on over and ask any questions.