THE NATURAL HISTORY OF AUSTRALIA
October 24 to November 16, 2015
Led by Mark Smith and Australian Naturalists
AUSTRALIA, the island continent, is home to the most distinctly different assemblage of
organisms on earth. Plant and animal groups, long-since declined or extinct over the rest of the
world, have persisted and diversified during 60 million years of Australian isolation. Over half the
birds and most of Australia’s mammals are endemic, occurring nowhere else.
Marsupials are the most obvious feature of the fauna, and during our visit we’ll see several
species of kangaroos, wallabies, bandicoots, delightful possums, and the popular koala. Among the
spectacular birds we’ll view are Emus, lyrebirds, mound-builders, bowerbirds, penguins,
woodswallows, honeyeaters and a slew of colorful parrots. Expert local naturalists will co-lead in
each region.
Australia’s geography is varied and spectacular, from temperate to tropical, from desert to
rainforest. We visit four major regions. Beginning in the temperate southeast, we sally out from
Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide into forested parks and along rugged, rocky coastline. Out of
Melbourne we visit the penguin colony on Phillip Island, hike through open forests and fern gullies in
the craggy Grampian Mountains, pass through wheat and sheep farms, and search out the secretive
Malleefowl and the brilliant parrots of Wyperfeld National Park. We cross the Murray River by
Adelaide, then fly north to Alice Springs in the arid “Red Center.” Mysterious Ayer’s Rock and the
Olgas are both eroded monoliths of religious importance to the Aborigines. On easy hikes in and
around them we’ll see cave paintings and desert flowers and wildlife.
Flying north to Darwin, we enter the tropics. Kakadu National Park protects a mixture of
eucalyptus forests, marshy billabongs (lakes) and abrupt escarpments; this is the land of Crocodile
Dundee. Giant Saltwater Crocodiles (Saltys) and water birds like the Magpie Goose are approachable
by boat, and on excellent paths we’ll find Blue-winged Kookaburras, Red-tailed Black-cockatoos,
Rainbow Pittas and Fruit Bats.
Next we fly east to the lush coast of Queensland. From Cairns and Port Douglas we boat out to
the Great Barrier Reef and spend one night on a beautiful coral caye. Exploring the dazzling coral
reef is easy because the water is calm and warm. West of Cairns are the Atherton Tablelands, where
many endemic plants and animals occur in the cool forests. On walks through lowland rainforest
we’ll search for Birds of Paradise and bowerbirds and enjoy the unique ancient flora. By boat we
explore the famed Daintree River with mangrove, marsh and lowland rainforest habitats. From
Cairns we return Stateside via Sydney.
LEADERSHIP
Mark Smith has led numerous Audubon and Nature
Conservancy international tours during the past twenty years.
Since his studies in Biology at Oregon State University, Mark has
worked as a researcher and educator for a variety of
organizations, including the National Science Foundation, the
Public Schools, and the Oregon Museum of Science and
Industry. His wide travels have carried him many times to
Central America, Asia, Europe, and Africa, and 10 times to
Australia. In Australia four regional naturalists will join us to colead in their regions of expertise.
Jon Starks has co-led Australia tours with Mark Smith for
17 years. A professional ornithologist, Jon does research for
Birds Australia, having conducted dozens of projects on
endangered birds, and other wildlife. His detailed knowledge of
Aussie economics, politics and history are remarkable and he
will be presenting us to several interesting lectures. Jon will be
guiding us for 7 days, from Melbourne through Adelaide.
TOUR PRICE
Ground Fare $8675 (limit 5 passengers)
Includes double occupancy accommodations in hotels and lodges, all group land
and boat transport, entrance fees, and 80% of meals—the remainder paid
individually are inexpensive, in towns, airports or on Qantas domestic flights.
Air Fare $2375 approximately, from Seattle and Portland via LA to
Sydney on Qantas. This includes 5 flights in Australia. By using Quantas,
our 4 internal flights are reduced in cost. All travelers must be on the same
internal flights.
Using the trip agent is optional.
International: $1550 approximately from L.A. or San Francisco
Domestic:
$1350 (five flights)
Tour flight agent:
Pam Davis, Willamette International Travel
1314 NW Irving St. #101
Portland, OR 97209-2721
Single Supplement
The Single Supplement for this tour is $1750.
503/224-0180 or 1-800-821-0401
Fax: 503/242-3867 — Email: pamd@wittravel.com
RESERVATIONS and FINAL PAYMENT
A deposit of $1000 made out to Mark Smith Nature Tours and
sent to:
Mark Smith
PO Box 3831
Portland, OR 97208
will ensure you a place on this tour. Spaces will be
reserved in the order which checks are received. By June travelers will be sent a packet of
preparation materials. The visa is easy to get and costs $115 US currently. A second payment of
$2000 per person is due on June 24, four months before departure. The final payment of $4675, plus
the single supplement if applicable, is due August 24, 60 days before trip departure. If you have any
questions, please call Mark at 360-566-0458 or send email to marksmithnaturetours@hotmail.
CANCELLATIONS and REFUNDS
Any cancellation made more than 90 days prior to departure receives a full refund. Cancellations for which
replacements are not found are subject to the following fees: $1500 if cancellation is made between 90 and
30 days prior to departure date, and $3000 if cancellation is made fewer than 30 days before departure. We
recommend that participants consider trip cancellation insurance, which can be bought through Willamette
International Travel.
ITINERARY
(Meals paid separately by participants are indicated by
“individual dinner,” etc.)
Day 1-2
Sat.-Sun., Oct. 24- Oct. 25 ____ US to Sydney
Travelers depart Los Angeles to Sydney around 10:20
PM on various flights. We cross the international dateline
and lose a day that we’ll make up on our way home.
Day 3 Monday, October 26 __________________________________________________________ Sydney
Our flights arrive in Sydney around 7:05 AM. After airport formalities, we go immediately to
our hotel in the historic harborside Rocks District, overlooking the Opera House, where we spend
two nights. After a rest we begin our exploration of beautiful Sydney. Since several people will be in
Sydney before the main group, we will set 12:30 as a meeting time at the hotel. You should have
lunch before we meet. Breakfast will be very early on the plane. Snacks can be found on our walk.
Our activities today are all local, done by walking and ferrying. Persons could choose to do them
independently. After the long flight and time zone changes travelers often are tired this day. And
tomorrow we have an early departure, so dinner will be individual too. There are infinite eateries
near the hotel. Tomorrow night we will have our welcome banquet. Today we’ll visit the splendid
Opera House, ferry across the harbor, and view historic buildings and the botanical gardens.
Individual lunch and dinner.
Day 4 Tuesday, October 27 ________________________________________________ Royal National Park
Our bus picks us up at 6:00 AM for a grand day exploring spectacular Royal National Park near
Sydney. We will have breakfast on the bus during the 1 ¼-hour drive. Short walks will provide an
excellent introduction to Australian birds and plants. Forests of varied eucalyptus trees are also
home to such beautiful plants as banksias, paperbarks, tea trees and tree ferns. Kookaburras,
Crimson Rosellas, whipbirds, cockatoos, honeyeaters and Fairy Wrens are common, as well as diverse
waterbirds. We return this evening to Sydney. If persons wish to spend this day further investigating
Sydney, that’s fine.
Day 5 Wednesday, October 28____________________________________________ Sydney to Melbourne
This morning at 9:30 AM we fly to Melbourne, arriving at 11:05. From our downtown hotel in
Melbourne we can walk out and explore the city; trams (streetcars) run nearby. This afternoon we’ll
have a city tour featuring some of Melbourne’s Victorian buildings and history then continue on a
birdwatching outing to Werribee, where waterfowl like Black Swans, endemic ducks, and migratory
shorebirds crowd the marshes and lagoons. Individual lunch and dinner.
Day 6
Thur., Oct. 29 ___ Phillip Island and Little Penguins
This morning we depart by bus for Phillip Island, where we’ll
search for Koalas and seabirds. The island supports a large colony of
Little Penguins, and we’ll watch the flocks emerge from the surf at
dusk and march to their breeding burrows. Dinner at Cowes on the
Island and a late return home to Melbourne. Individual lunch.
Day 7
Friday, Oct. 30 _____________________________
Ballarat and the Grampians
We depart this morning by bus for the Grampian Mountains
National Park. En route we’ll pass through gold-mining towns like
Ballarat which date from the mid-1800s. This afternoon we will walk
on scenic trails in these ancient sandstone faulted mountains. The
Grampians are justly famous for the color and variety of the fall
wildflower bloom. In eucalyptus forests and treefern gullies we’ll find
orchids, lilies, grevillias and more, some of them endemic to these rugged ranges. Common
woodland birds include honeyeaters, Yellow Robins,
Gang-gang Cockatoos and scrub wrens. Koalas and
kangaroos can also be found. Individual lunch.
Day 8
Sat., Oct. 31 ______ The Grampians to Rainbow
An early morning nature walk through the
sculpted rocks and carved gorges of the Grampians, and
then we depart for Rainbow to the northwest in an arid
region of wheat and sheep farms. We dine tonight in the
agricultural town of Rainbow at the local pub-restaurant
where we
have a traditional “counter tea.” We spend two nights at the Pot-of-Gold Motel in Rainbow.
Individual lunch.
Day 9
Sunday, November 1 __________________________________Wyperfeld National Park
We leave early for a full day in Wyperfeld National Park, home to Emus, kangaroos, the
Malleefowl and fantastic parrots. Beautiful trails pass through the forests of river red gums and
around old lake beds. Before clearing for farms, this entire region was covered by mallee, a type of
dwarf eucalyptus forest maintained by natural fires. For dinner we again have “counter tea” at the
local pub-restaurant in Rainbow.
Day 10
Monday, November 2 ____________________________________ Rainbow to Adelaide
This morning we pass through wheat and sheep country and cross the Murray River on a fivehour drive to Adelaide, where we’ll do a short tour in the late afternoon. Our hotel is in the center of
town, and we can walk to restaurants along the mall for dinner. Individual lunch and dinner.
Day 11
Tuesday, November 3 ___________________ Adelaide to Alice Springs, Simpson’s Gap
We fly to Alice Springs this morning at 10:50, arriving at 11:55 AM. From our central Alice hotel
we can wander in the town. At 3:00 PM we drive out by bus to explore and birdwatch the
spectacular flashflood gaps of the arid MacDonnell Range. Rock wallabies and large lizards can be
seen and the desert birds include trillers, cockatiels, budgies and Zebra Finches. Ephemeral creeks
have worn gorges in the ancient MacDonnells, and the pools in the dry creeks attract wildlife for
miles. Dinner on the town. Individual lunch and dinner.
Day 12
Wednesday, November 4___________________________ Alice to Ayer’s Rock (Uluru)
We depart this morning on the five-hour desert drive to Uluru. At the edge of Alice Springs we
stop at the sewage ponds to see stilts, avocets, Hoary-headed Grebes and Whistling Ducks. We’ll
have lunch en route, and check in at our fine hotel in the government developed tourist town of
Yulara, where all visitors to Uluru stay. In the evening we take a walk at the base of the rock,
investigating aboriginal cave paintings and desert ecology. At sunset we watch the changing colors of
the rock. Individual lunch and dinner.
Day 13
Thursday, November 5 ___________________________ Uluru and the Olgas (Katatjuta)
Twenty miles away from Ayer’s Rock rise the Olgas, similar sedimentary outcrops with a maze
of gaps and canyons between. We’ll leave early for a long morning of beautiful hikes amongst these
sacred red rocks. Wildflowers will depend on recent rains. The story of many desert creatures can be
read from their tracks in the orange dunes. We return to the hotel for lunch, and have a relaxed
afternoon for swimming and viewing the visitor center. Our last afternoon another walk around
Ayer’s Rock; those that like may climb the Rock. Tonight an optional desert night walk. Individual
lunch and dinner.
Day 14
Friday, November 6__________________________________________ Ayers to Alice
We drive back to Alice Springs today with interesting stops en route. After hotel check-in, this
evening we will visit the Telegraph museum at the original “Springs,” celebrating the settlement of
the Outback. Varied wildlife gather at this pleasant park. Dinner on the town. Individual lunch and
dinner.
Day 15
Saturday, November 7 ______________________________________ Alice to Darwin
An early morning optional birdwatch, and then we catch our 11:40 AM flight to tropical Darwin
arrives at 1:40 PM. In the late afternoon we visit mangrove and mudflat natural areas teeming with
land and waterbirds. Our hotel is in the center of the small city overlooking the bay. Individual dinner.
Day 16
Sunday, November 8 __________________________ Darwin to Kakadu National Park
We depart early for Fogg Dam, a bungled rice project that is now one of the finest waterbird
areas in Australia. Jacanas, spoonbills, various herons, storks, pelicans, swans and geese throng the
marshes, and many are easily photographed. The nearby forests support pittas, cuckoos and beeeaters. We spend the night at Cooinda in Kakadu National Park, with excellent woodland and plains
habitats surrounding our lodge.
Day 17
Monday, November 9 _____________________________________________ Kakadu
At 6:00 AM we’ll board a boat to cruise the
Yellow Waters area in search of giant saltwater
crocodiles, goannas (monitor lizards) and spectacular
waterbirds like Black-necked Storks and Sea Eagles. The
boats approach close, and photo opportunities are excellent.
In mid-afternoon we move deeper into the park, investigating
the billabongs (oxbow lakes) and monsoon forests of this vast
park. This evening we have an interpretive walk to the
Aboriginal cave paintings of
Ubiri. Sunset over the marshes, and then we drive south in the dark to
dinner at another lodge farther south. Individual lunch.
Day 18
Tuesday, November 10 ____________________________________ Kakadu to Darwin
An early birdwalk, then we depart to Darwin. En route we will explore more rock art sites and
billabongs, arriving this evening. Individual lunch and dinner on the town.
Day 19
Wednesday, November 11 _____________________ Darwin to Cairns to Green Island
We’re up early to catch our 6:20 AM flight to Cairns, where we are met at the airport at 9:10 by
naturalist Murray Hunt. We have picnic lunch on the famous esplanade while watching thousands of
Asian shorebirds, then board a large, stable catamaran for the 40-minute voyage 15 miles offshore to
Green Island, a sandy caye on the Great Barrier Reef. Our resort lodge is deluxe and surrounded by
lush vegetation. We have this afternoon and tomorrow
morning to walk the trails and beaches and swim. The
corals and fishes of the Great Barrier Reef comprise the
world’s most diverse marine ecosystem. The white coral
beaches of Green Island are the perfect setting to practice
and apply our snorkeling skills. Other activities available
include an underwater observatory, glass bottom boats, a
semi-submersible (you sit below the water’s surface with
glass on both sides), a pool and a museum of South Pacific Islands and Crocodiles. The leader can
teach you how to snorkel. Picnic dinner or individual dinner.
Day 20
Thursday, November 12 ________________________ Reef to the Atherton Tablelands
After a morning of snorkeling and walks viewing diverse terns, shorebirds and pigeons, we ferry
to the mainland and are met by Murray for our scenic journey inland to Yungaburra. We ascend the
Coast Range and then cross the fertile 3,000 foot Atherton Tablelands, the rich farmland broken by
rainforest preserves, where we walk in search of Spotted Catbird, Victoria’s Riflebird (a bird of
paradise) and myriad colorful honeyeaters. We settle for the night at the historic Lake Eacham Hotel,
hosted to traditional Aussie hospitality. At dusk we’ll wait for a platypus at a frequent watery haunt.
Day 21
Friday, November 13_________________________________ The Atherton Tablelands
We depart early to The Crater, a volcanic formation with surrounding forest trails where we’ll
search for exotic specialties like Golden Bowerbird, Green Catbird, Chowchilla and King Parrot. We
return to Yungaburra for lunch and continue north to delightful Kingfisher Lodge, nestled in the forest
and rich with wildlife. Birds like Red-necked Rail and several honeyeaters are attracted to the feeders,
and the spectacular Noisy Pitta and Buff-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher will have recently returned
from Asia. The Red-legged Pademelon (a small roo type) is a frequent visitor, and on our night walk
we may find Striped and Green Possums, Bandicoot, and even the Lesser Sooty Owl. Individual lunch.
Day 22
Saturday, November 14 ________________________________ Rainforest to Daintree
An early rainforest walk before we descend from the Tablelands and drive along the
Queensland coast, old haunt of Captain Cook, to the village of Daintree for an optional evening walk
in forest along the river.
Day 23
Sunday, November 15 _________________________________ Daintree & Port Douglas
We begin early with a boat trip to see wildlife along the Daintree River. After breakfast we visit
various coastal sites for waterbirds. The nearby town of Port Douglas has many attractive shops and
lunch. This evening another walk and early farewell dinner. Individual lunch.
Day 24
Monday, November 16 ______________________ Daintree to Cairns to Brisbane to US
We depart Daintree very early to reach Cairns in time for our 6:00 AM Qantas flight to
Brisbane, connecting with our 11:40 PM flight to L.A. We should all reach home evening this same
day. Australia is magnificent!