THEATRE CRAFTS INFORMATION SHEETS COSTUME CAREERS IN COSTUME The Costume Designer – is usually selected by the producer/director of a show in regard to specialist skills, reputation, or previous successful collaboration. The designer is contracted to produce original designs in accordance with the ideas and vision of the director, delivering them by the due date as specified in the contract. Research is an essential tool in the design of period costume, combined with an understanding of cut, style, fabrics, trimmings and accessories. The Assistant Designer – may be chosen by the Designer to design and /or buy for secondary characters, extras, etc., under the supervision and direction of the Designer. The Design Assistant – works with the Designer directly on a production, and may be involved in such things as gathering information, researching, buying, running errands, etc. Head of Costume / Wardrobe Manager This is an extremely high-pressured position requiring stamina, foresight and patience. First-rate time management and budgetary experience is essential. Excellent organizational and communication skills are needed, along with the ability to think laterally. Other essential requirements are – a sound knowledge of period dress and textiles; the cut and construction of period and modern clothing; the dyeing, printing and distressing of costumes. The hiring of both permanent and fixed-term contract staff, and involvement with work experience students are all part of this job description. Previous experience in all aspects of Wardrobe work is a great asset. The Buyer – is responsible for the sourcing, ordering and buying of fabrics, trimmings, accessories and clothing required for a production. A sound knowledge of period style and design is essential. Good customer relations with suppliers; excellent communication skills, and the ability to work within the budget are vital assets for this position. THE WORKROOM The Senior Cutter * – works in close contact with Designer; he/she is responsible for the cutting and fitting of costumes; overseeing the work of experienced staff and staff-in-training, and organizing the smooth running of the workroom. This is a ‘high-pressure’ position requiring advanced knowledge of period and modern cut, and excellent communication, time management and motivational skills. The Assistant Cutter – has responsibility similar to the above and may take the place of the Senior Cutter in his/her absence. The First Hand – works closely with the Cutter in preparing the costumes for first fittings. High standards of costume production and a basic knowledge of cutting are essential. The First Hand may help with the training and supervision of less experienced staff. The Costume Assistant – makes new, and alters existing costumes to a high standard. This job is usually graded according to experience. Assistants may choose to specialize in either Ladies costume making or Tailoring; depending on their interests. Good tailors are rarely out of work! * Job titles may vary in different organizations WARDROBE MAINTENANCE Jobs in this area involve the movement, repair, laundry, storage, shipment of costumes and dressing of performers within a theatre, or while a production is on tour. Good health, the ability to work long hours, a calm attitude and good organizational skills are essential for work in this area. The Wardrobe Stand-by (Film and television) The person in this position is responsible for the dressing of actors, extras, etc. during a production. He/she will ‘stand-by’ on the set to supervise and attend to all necessary action (eg. quick changes) regarding the costumes worn by an actor/performer; keep continuity notes and take ‘master-shot’ photographs relating to continuity. Quick-thinking and good organizational ability are essential. The Costume Supervisor – works closely with the Designer, He/she needs to have a sound knowledge of the dayto-day running of a costume department. A responsible attitude; ability to work to deadlines; good organizational abilities; an established rapport with suppliers, and a knowledge and understanding of period textiles and costume are essential requisites for this job. Good health, stamina, a calm attitude under pressure and excellent selfmotivation are also necessary. On small productions where there is no designer the Supervisor may be required to fill a more creative role. The Dyer – should be professionally trained in all aspects of fabric and costume dyeing, screenprinting, painting and ‘breaking down’ (distressing). As this job involves the use of hazardous chemicals an awareness of Health & Safety regulations is of paramount importance in the workplace at all times. The Surface Decorator – may also be a Dyer. Surface embellishment of textiles may use any number of techniques and media to enhance and embellish existing fabrics. A sound knowledge of period textile design and decoration is required, along with an awareness of up-to-date processes and materials. Health & Safety issues may apply here, The Costume Props Maker – makes jewellery, masks, ‘trick’ costumes and other items from a large variety of materials. The work may require the use of hazardous chemicals. The Milliner – makes hats and headdresses under the direction of the Designer. Training in this skill is necessary, along with a fondness for hand-sewing. A sound knowledge of men’s and women’s period head wear is essential. The Shoemaker – will have been trained in the making of boots and shoes. This is an unusual job in the world of Costume, but an essential one, as period style footwear is an important part of the overall costume design. NB – The above information may be used as an introduction to jobs within the Costume industry. It is absolutely necessary to remember that all jobs in theatre, television and film call for – among other things: Commitment to long hours and deadlines Occasional uncomfortable locations Intermittent long periods away from home, partners and friends Excellent health The ability to move and lift heavy weights The need to retain a cool head in times of high stress and chaos. – otherwise it is creative, fun, and hugely satisfying! Alexandra Tynan 2006 HOW I GOT INTO COSTUME… SARAH, Costume Co-ordinator, 3 A-levels 1992-1993 Bournemouth College of Art & Design* – HND in Costume for Screen & Stage – Costume Interpretation (costume cutting / making) Work experience while at college – making tailored costumes for LAMDA Drama College Made pantomime costumes during summer break Offered work experience at Birmingham Drama College which led to an interview and subsequent employment Assistant in 2-person Wardrobe Department at Birmingham Drama College for two years Spent one year travelling On return worked on two pantomime seasons at York Theatre Royal Sent out CV to various companies – was invited to an interview at Glyndebourne. Spent three years in the Costume Department Tailoring workroom, starting as a Junior Assistant and leaving at First Hand level. Deputy Wardrobe Manager at Chichester Festival Theatre for two seasons – 2003/2004 Worked for Gubbie Opera in London in winter 2004 Returned to Glyndebourne in January 2005 as Assistant Costume Coordinator. * Now The Arts Institute at Bournemouth – BA (Hons) degree in Costume for Screen and Stage JULIE, First Hand - Ladies Workroom 1997 1997 – 1998 1998 – 1999 1999 – 2002 2002 2003 2004 2005 – present A-level Art Open Network in Sewing for Fashion (Evening course) BTEC National Diploma – Fashion The Arts Institute at Bournemouth – BA (Hons) degree – Costume for Screen and Stage Junior Wardrobe Assistant – Ladies workroom, Glyndebourne Dresser – Glyndebourne on Tour Wardrobe Assistant – Ladies Workroom, Glyndebourne Wardrobe Assistant – Ladies Workroom, Glyndebourne Freelance – Cirque de Soleil, ‘Quidam’ Tour Australia Freelance costume-maker – London First Hand – Ladies Workroom, Glyndebourne