THURSDAY'S PROGRAM - MAY 31, 2012
SCIENTIFIC SESSION A
9:00 A.M. - 11:30 A.M.
Scientific Approach to Sustainability
Moderator – Michael Fevola, Ph.D., Johnson & Johnson
HENRY MASO KEYNOTE AWARD LECTURE
SPONSORED BY THE HENRY MASO FAMILY AND SILTECH CORPORATION
Green Chemistry: The Missing Element of Materials Design
John Warner, Ph.D.
Warner Babcock Institute for Green Chemistry, LLC
Imagine a world where all segments of society demanded environmentally benign products.
Imagine if all consumers, all retailers and all manufacturers insisted on buying and selling only
non-toxic materials, environmentally benign materials. The unfortunate reality is that, even if this
situation were to occur, our knowledge of materials science and chemistry would allow us to
provide only a small fraction of the products and materials that our economy is based upon. The
way we learn and teach chemistry and materials science is for the most part void of any
information regarding mechanisms of toxicity and environmental harm. Green Chemistry is a
philosophy that seeks to reduce or eliminate the use of hazardous materials at the design stage of
a materials process. It has been demonstrated that materials and products CAN be designed with
negligible impact on human health and the environment while still being economically
competitive and successful in the marketplace. This presentation will describe the history and
background of Green Chemistry and discuss the opportunities (environmental and economic) for
future products based on the principles of green chemistry.
Development of Sensory Test Methodology for the Identification of Sustainable Polymers
For Hair Styling Applications
Camille Sasik, Ph.D., Cindy Orr, J. Michael Bohen, Nancy Krueger, Amy Anderson-Gaber,
Derek Batiste and Lauren LeBeaud
Aveda Corporation
Objective: There is an increasing interest to develop and use sustainable polymers in place of
synthetic styling polymers for hair care applications. Historically, using naturally derived
materials have drawbacks from formulation and performance perspective. The development of a
sensory testing method to identify and characterize the formulation benefits of naturally-derived
polymers has been undertaken. This allows for direct comparisons of synthetic styling polymers
to natural polymers; the example below compares PVP to different starch (potato and corn)
derivatives.
Methodology: Characterization of a wide variety of polymers by utilizing a sensory panel
type approach at an earlier point in the product development process. A combination of swatch
testing, sensory evaluations and polymer characterization is being used.
Results: Using this method seven common synthetic styling polymers and more than a dozen
naturally-derived polymer alternatives have been characterized to date. The resulting data has led
to the successful replacement of synthetic polymers in a number of newly developed hair styling
products. This presentation will focus on characterization of corn and potato starch derivatives
compared to PVP along with a control formulation.
Each polymer is characterized in the same manner, from an aqueous gel formulation. The gel
with no polymer added is used as the control. Sensory ratings have been normalized such that a
rating of 5 indicates the most positive results for that attribute. From the data shown below, the
control gel is rated higher than the polymers for shine, natural feel and flaking, which indicates
that it is an appropriate control for these analyses. Addition of film forming polymers to the gel
leads to increased hold on hair swatches. The modified corn starch polymer was rated highest for
hold, and left the hair swatch feeling natural, not coated. Very high flaking is the main drawback
of the corn starch polymer, while the potato starch had acceptable ratings for shine, flaking and
feel on hair.
Figure 1: Sensory data comparing modified corn and potato starch and PVP gels (5% actives) to
a control gel with no polymer added. Results of shine, feel, flaking and hold assessments are
shown.
Conclusion: From this data, formulators are able to anticipate the positive and negative
aspects of a naturally derived polymer before they begin using it in the laboratory. Sensory
testing can be successfully used as a formulation tool early in the product development process to
assist in the replacement of synthetic ingredients with natural or naturally-derived, sustainable
alternatives.
Greening the Supply Chain to Develop More Sustainable Formulations
Robert Predale, Phil Sliva and Julie B. Manley
J & J Consumer Companies
Objective:
Formulator’s rely heavily on their supply chain in order to develop more sustainable products
while meeting the needs of their customers. The ACS GCI Formulator’s Roundtable was
developed to be the driving force to use green chemistry in creating innovative products that are
environmentally sustainable throughout their product life cycle and safer to make and use. The
Roundtable, comprised of companies significantly involved in the formulation of soap,
detergents and cleaning preparations and/or perfumes, cosmetics, and other toilet preparations,
acknowledges its position to generate an aggregate demand for greener alternatives to currently
used raw materials. The components of existing formulated products are considered safe and
effective; however, it is the intention of the Roundtable to foster the development of innovative
greener components to enhance the overall sustainable profile of formulated products.
Methodology:
To initiate progress towards informing and influencing suppliers and academia to develop
greener alternatives, the Roundtable believed it was imperative to define the top areas for
opportunities for greener alternatives as identified from a formulator’s perspective. It was not
sufficient to simply list the areas; the Roundtable felt it was critical to define the preferred
characteristics of each. Focusing largely on commodity types of raw materials and avoiding
proprietary ingredients, the list was developed with input and review from all member
companies. The opportunities are common to the industry and do not represent one particular
company’s interests. The final list was the consensus view of the Roundtable members and
reflects data available at the time of the project.
Results:
Preferred characteristics were identified for the following opportunities as defined by the ACS
GCI Formulator’s Roundtable:

Greener "Antimicrobials"

Greener Solvents

Greener Small Amines, MEA, DEA, TEA

Greener Chelants

Greener Boron Alternatives

Greener Fragrance Raw Materials

Greener Corrosion Inhibitors

Greener Alkanolamide Replacements

Greener Surfactants

Greener UV Filters
Conclusions:
This list of opportunities for greener alternatives from a formulator’s perspective is not intended
to be exclusionary, but rather provide an initiation point. The ACS GCI Formulator’s
Roundtable recognizes this as an opportunity for collaboration where appropriate, for funding
where feasible, and for global communication as needed to engage the broader audience in this
effort to bring greener alternatives into the marketplace. It is the hope of the Roundtable that this
list of top formulation opportunities initiates dialogue, research, and development of renewable
and less hazardous alternatives.
The ANSI/NSF/GCI 355 Standard: A Tool for Greener Formulations
Robert Peoples, Ph.D.,Shefali Algoo
American Chemical Society
OBJECTIVE
The foundation of our modern chemical infrastructure is rooted in deciphering the rules of
chemistry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Coupled with a cheap and plentiful supply of
both energy and chemical building blocks derived from petroleum, the modern chemical
enterprise blossomed.
In 1962 with the publication of “Silent Spring,” by Rachael Carson, a real awareness of the
impact of mankind on our environment entered our collective consciousness. For the first time
we began to understand the implications of the modern chemical industry.
The purpose of the research and creation of the NSF/GCI/ANSI Standard is to provide business
to business communication with greater clarity and information to design benign chemicals, one
of the biggest hurdles for companies up and down the supply chain. Coupled with growing
awareness of the demands of an expanding population, rising standards of living and the scale of
resources and energy required to meet those demands, the new rules of sustainable design are
inextricably coupled with newer standards and regulatory frameworks.
METHODOLOGY
The American Chemical Society Green Chemistry Institute® (ACS/GCI) partnered with over
forty stakeholders to develop a standardized B-2-B tool which helps chemists evaluate the impact
of chemicals, processes and design of new molecules in an environmental health safety
framework. It is expected that this Standard will help to provide vital information on other
approaches that have evolved to evaluate the relative sustainability of a chemical product
including: hazard analysis, risk assessment, eco-efficiency analysis, carbon footprint, and lifecycle assessment.
This Standard is the first to incorporate both information on the chemical hazards and also the
manufacturing process considerations in a unified format. It assists chemical manufacturers and
formulators who need to know the identity and hazard profiles of the chemical ingredients used
in the products and the impacts associated with the manufacturing process.
Thanks to a two-and-a-half-year cooperative effort between NSF International and ASC/GCI
there is now an official ANSI standard.
RESULTS
NSF International, along with the ACS/GCI, has released an American National Standard to
provide the chemical enterprise with a voluntary and standardized way to define and report on a
chemical product’s hazard profile and its associated manufacturing process impacts. The
standard provides reporting guidance on product identification, chemical characteristics such as
human health effects, ecological effects, physical safety properties, and gate to gate process
impacts including recycled/reused content, water use, energy use, bio-based content, process
safety, and innovative technologies. The NSF/GCI 355 Standard for Greener Chemicals and
Processes Information provides a clear, consistent and transparent way to communicate this
information from business to business throughout the supply chain. The information generated
through the standard will assist customers in evaluating the relative sustainability of a chemical
product and process over its life cycle.
CONCLUSION
The Standard will play a central role in the transformation of chemistry from a petroleum-based
enterprise, to one driven by the 12 principles of green chemistry and engineering. Such a shift
will be of interest to the cosmetics industry as new materials and sources become manifest. This
talk will review global perspectives driving these changes, examples of the successful
implementation of green chemistry and engineering, and highlight the role of the Institute’s
programs in aiding this transformation.
SCIENTIFIC SESSION B
1:30 P.M. - 4:00 P.M.
Skin Protection/Barrier
Moderator – Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Kal’idees
Validation of an AMD HPTLC Separation Method for Determination of Skin Lipids
And their Identification by Using TLC MS Interface
Ingo Schellenberg, Ph.D. and Kathrin Kabrodt
Anhalt University of Applied Sciences
OBJECTIVE
The presentation reports about the optimization, validation and quantification of a method
forseparation of skin lipids of the stratum corneum by using Automated Multiple Development.
It is well known that various skin diseases can be related to impairments in the stratum corneum
ceramide profile. The aim of our investigation was to optimize separation over a short analytical
time period and to quantify various lipid substances which are applied to SC using the optimized
chromatographic separation method. Automated Multiple Development (AMD) was at the focus
of the potential analytical methods which were successfully used to analyze lipid substances in
the past. However existing analytical methods are very time consuming and cost intensive in
terms of the amount of solvents required. In order to quickly identify the native samples, we
combined HPTLC with TLC MS Interface by using mass spectrometry which allowed us to
examine directly from the thin layer plate. Finally the analysis was tested by examining the skin
lipids after extracting them from the skin of humans.
METHODOLOGY
To separate the skin lipids, an 8 step gradient was developed in an AMD 2 system. The total
development time was 1h 35 min. The densitometric analysis was done by measuring the
absorbance at 600 nm using a TLC Scanner. The identification was performed using a TLC-MSInterface coupled with mass spectrometry. Therefore the TlC-MS-Interface was coupled with a
pump to the mass spectrometer API 2000 with an ESI and an APCI source. By using ESI and
APCI, the underivatized substance spots on the HPTLC plate were eluted with methanol with a
flow rate of 0.1 ml/min.
The sampling of the skin lipids was performed on the forearm.. 10 ml of a solvent mixture
hexane - ethanol (2:1 v/v) was transferred to an extraction vessel, which was attached to a non
lesioned area of skin on the inner forearm. The extraction time was 5 min. The sample was
evaporated under a nitrogen stream at 50° C for 30 min. Afterwards it was dissolved in 10 ml
mixture of methanol - chloroform - water. The sample was centrifuged for 5 min. at 5000 rpm
(18° C). The lower chloroform containing phase includes the SC lipids.
RESULTS
In the first development step, all the polar compounds were completely eluted with 100%
methanol and focused into a sharp line. The cholesterol 3-sulfate and eramides were separated in
subsequent steps 2 to 6. To focus the oleic acid in the sixth development stage of the gradient, the
HPTLC plate was pre conditioned with 4 molar acetic acid. Using 100% chloroform in the
seventh run we could separate cholesteryl oleate from glyceryl trioleate. In the last step, the
sebum lipids, squalene and cholesteryl oleate, were separated from each other with a solvent
mixture made up of hexane and toluene.
Quantification of lipid substances was done by using statistical software. The calibration curves
were calculated with a probability of 95% as a quadratic function. For quantification, working
ranges varied between 8.65 ng and 2073 ng depending on the investigated lipids. The calibration
functions revealed correlation coefficients from 0.97 to 0.99.
For identification using TLC-MS Interface the ionization of the substances was performed in the
negative and positive ion mode.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, the optimized AMD method allows the determination and quantification of skin
lipids in real patient samples. The direct combination of HPTLC plate with mass spectrometry
allows an easy identification.
Lipidic Homeostasis is Essential to Maintain Skin Barrier Structure and Function
Through Aging and Environmental Insults
Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., J.M. Botto, K. Cucumel, C. Gondran, L. Mur, L. Bergeron, C. Plaza,
G. Menon, Y. Guerif-Ferreira, A. Bergui, G. Oberto, C. Dal Farra and N. Domloge
ISP Vincience
OBJECTIVE: To study and evaluate new compounds targeting major biological pathways
essential for skin barrier permeability, function and recovery.
METHODOLOGY: Nile red staining to observe epidermal lipid content, histochemistry to
evaluate expression of HMGCoA reductase, transglutaminases and caspase 14 on human skin
biopsies; electron microscopy to study lamellar bodies content; QPCR to evaluate expression of
antimicrobial peptides; H&E staining to perform morphological studies of the epidermis after
UV insults or tape stripping; clinical investigation by in vivo confocal microscopy.
RESULTS: Stimulation of HMGCoA reductase (+78.12%) increased epidermal lipids (+41.4%
after 48h) and lamellar bodies content ex vivo with enhanced antimicrobial peptides release in the
stratum corneum such as DEFB1 (+31%) and LL-37 (+23%). Increase of caspase 14 (+224%)
reduced significantly skin damages induced by UVB (-34% of CPD, -39% SBC). Increase of
transglutaminases activity (+47.7%) significantly improved stratum corneum resistance and
moisturization by vivascope study.
CONCLUSION: These studies highlight the skin benefits of compounds maintaining lipidic
homeostasis by modulating HMGCoA reductase, caspase 14, transglutaminases and improving
epidermal barrier structure and function as well as resistance to stress and pathogens
of natural polymer, compared to the typical synthetic fixative polymers used in hair gels.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Vinyl Acetate copolymers (PVP/VA) are
typically used as the fixative polymer in a hair gel. Polymerization of Vinyl Pyrrolidone in the
presence of Maltodextrin was investigated.
Secrets to Improving Skin Barrier Function at the Cellular Level
Smitha Rao,M.S., M.B.A., James V. Grubder, Ph.D., Dana Smith and Suellen Bennett
Lonza Personal Care
OBJECTIVE
Optimum skin barrier function is the primary line of defense against environmental stresses
such as UV induced photo-damage; insults from microbial infections and physical breakdown
resulting from wound formation. In compromised skin effective barrier function is critical for
mitigating acute and chronic damage to the epidermis; and preventing water loss. The skin
barrier generally referred to as the stratum corneum is a well-coordinated network of
differentiated keratinocytes and lipid bilayer critical for youthful appearance. Our research
focuses on developing bioactive fermentation extracts (BFEs) by game changing,
fermentation methodologies in particular by the fermentation of two microbes grown
simultaneously in a 'competitive environment: The 'competitive environment' is conducive to
induce secondary metabolites, growth factors and cytokines that are otherwise not expressed.
Our research focused on two microorganisms belonging to the following genus Lactobacillaceae and Propionibacteriaceae. The objective of our developmental work was to
generate a product that repaired barrier function, particularly in compromised skin. Keeping
in mind the experimental objective, the two microbes selected for 'competitive fermentation'
was based on prior scientific publications suggesting potential skin care benefits. We
demonstrate that BFEs generated from 'competitive fermentation' are able to influence
biological markers that are critical for effective barrier function at the cellular level. These
biomarkers include C044, HAS 1 and Caspase- 14.
METHODOLOGY
An in vitro 'wound simulation model' was developed using Mat'Iek" skin equivalent tissues
to mimic compromised skin and evaluate histological changes in biological markers that are
critical for barrier function. The tissues were wounded using a 4mm biopsy punch to remove
the epidermal layer and then treated with test materials (BFE). After the treatment process,
the tissues were washed with , OO~I of PBS, fixed and prepared for histological processing.
The tissues were stained using the appropriate immune-fluorescent dyes and evaluated using
a fluorescence microscope equipped with a QiClick imaging camera. Changes in biomarkers
were observed against untreated controls.
RESULTS
The histological images indicate that the application of BFE significantly improves barrier
function by increasing the expression of key bio-markers critical for keratinocyte
differentiation. BFE significantly increases the expression of epidermal specific biomarkers
such as capsase-t 4. In addition, statistical significant increase in C044 and HAS' protein
expression was observed compared to untreated controls. Our studies indicate that
restoration of barrier function is accelerated by the applications of BFE when compared to
untreated wounded tissues. Our research indicates that BFE significantly decreases water
loss, therefore improving overall cellular water retention and improving barrier function.
CONCLUSION
BFE provide a natural, safe, non-irritating, efficacious topical treatment for enhancing barrier
formation at the cellular level. In vitro wound simulation assay demonstrates that BFE provides a
way to accelerate barrier formation for in compromised skin by either chemical (photo-damage
from UV) or physical insults (wound, infection). The positive effect of BFE supports data that
was observed in vivo showing overall improvements
minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increase in cellular moisturization. Our
research conclusively proves that microorganisms with well-known properties can be grown in
a"competitive environment" to generate either new activity, or new mode of action, or new
targets for topical treatments. We have demonstrated that targeted research can be premeditated
to yield desired skin care functions; if the parameters for product development are wellestablished.
Mapping SDS Permeation and Interaction with Stratum Corneum Lipids by Vibrational
Spectrocopy
Russel Walters, Ph.D., Guangru Mao, Ph.D., Euen Gunn, Peter Saad, Catherine Mack,
Carol Flach, Ph.D., and Richard Mendelsohn, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnso
OBJECTIVE
To map the permeation of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) through skin and the subsequent
changes in skin lipid molecular order, and to evaluate how the non-ionic PEG-80 sorbitan laurate
reduces SDS interaction with the skin.
METHODS
SDS permeation in intact skin and isolated stratum corneum (SC) was evaluated by confocal
Raman and IR microspectroscopic imaging. Deuterated SDS allows for detection of both
endogenous SC lipids and exogenous d-SDS independently.
RESULTS
The spatial distribution of SDS concentration in skin was obtained for the first time. SDS is
observed to be in a more ordered environment within the SC than in solution, suggesting that the
SDS participates in the ordered SC lipid lamellae. Subsequently the SDS reduces the amount of
orthorhombic phase in the SC and increases the amount of disordered lipid. While we cannot
directly address the long-standing question of whether surfactant enters the SC in micellar or
monomer form, after the SDS is in the SC it no longer exists in micelles but is within the lipid
lamellae.
CONCLUSIONS
SDS penetrates into the SC and participates in the molecular ordering of SC lipids, suggesting
that SDS is not in a micellar state in the skin. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate co-micellizes with SDS,
changing the micelle dynamics and reducing the SDS penetration into skin.
FRIDAY’S PROGRAM - JUNE 1, 2012
SCIENTIFIC SESSION C
9:00 A.M. - 11:30 A.M.
Molecular Biology of Skin
Moderator – Howard Epstein, Ph.D., EMD Chemicals
Application of Rice Meristem Cultures to Human Skin Promotes Rejuvenation at the
Epigenetic, Protein and Macro Level
Philip Ludwig, Suellen Bennett and James V. Gruber, Ph.D.
Lonza Personal Care Products
Undifferentiated plant meristem cells have a unique pattern of DNA methylation and were
hypothesized to have the ability to modulate human skin DNA methylation levels. A red rice
meristem culture extract was applied to young and old human fibroblasts in vitro. In untreated
tissues there is an increase in global DNA methylation from young to old cells. Application of
the rice culture to old fibroblasts decreases the global level of promoter methylation to that of
young fibroblasts. Two specific genes that showed a decrease in DNA methylation are Collagen
1A1 and 1A2. A protein assay confirmed that there was a corresponding increase in Collagen
protein. Dermatopontin, another skin structural protein, was found to be up regulated when the
rice culture was applied to keratinocytes. A human in vivo assay showed that an application of
the rice culture has multiple benefits at the macro level including wrinkle reduction and firming
benefits.
Objective
As cells age, DNA promoter methylation typically increases. Undifferentiated plant meristem
cells have a unique pattern of DNA methylation. We hypothesized that an undifferentiated rice
meristem culture extract applied to human skin could reduce age-related DNA promoter
methylation. The global level of DNA methylation was determined for untreated young and old
fibroblasts in vitro along with old fibroblasts treated with the rice culture extract. DNA
methylation levels were also analyzed at specific skin relevant genes. Protein levels were
determined along with analyzing various macro changes in the skin from an in vivo assay.
Methodology
Young, old, untreated and treated fibroblasts in vitro had their global promoter DNA methylation
levels determined through use of Agilent’s CpG methylation array chip. Methylation levels at
the Collagen 1A1 and 1A2 gene was determined along with the level of collagen protein to link
effects of application of the rice culture. An in vivo assay ascertained changes in skin elasticity
and wrinkle reduction.
Results
An application of the rice culture to old fibroblasts was able to decrease the global level of
promoter methylation to that found in young fibroblasts. With the application of the rice culture,
Collagen 1A1 and 1A2 genes had lower levels of promoter methylation and there was an
accompaning increase of collagen protein. At the macro level, in vivo data showed a reduction in
wrinkles and an increase in skin elasticity.
Conclusion
An application of undifferentiated rice tissue culture to skin was able to reverse age-related
DNA methylation both globally and at the skin relevant gene Collagen. In addition to the
epigenetic change, the rice culture was able to rejuvenate the skin at the protein and macro level.
Opiod Receptor Delta 1 (OPRD1) as a Global Modulator of Skin Differention
Georgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D .and Beat Amstutz
Induchem AG
Opioids receptors (OPR) are G protein-coupled receptors mediating the effects of opioid peptides
and part of the neuro-immune-cutaneous-endocrine (NICE) system regulating skin physiology.
We investigated Opioid Receptor Delta 1 (OPRD1) mRNA and protein expression, its
modulation and its capacity to act downstream on markers of differentiation and communication
in different skin models. qRT-PCR evidenced low OPRD1 mRNA expression in all models, but
immunohystochemistry identified strong expression of the receptor in RHE and skin explants.
Interestingly, OPRD1 level was strongly decreased by a pro-inflammatory treatment and specific
inflammation inhibitors restored OPRD1 expression. Finally, incubation of cytokine treatedRHE with an OPRD1 peptide agonist resulted in fully restored mRNA differentiation markers at
a level similar to the one obtained with a JAK/STAT inhibitor. In conclusion, stimulation of
OPRD1 in RHE is able to inhibit inflammation induced de-differentiation. These studies propose
OPRD1 and its agonists as a novel mechanism to influence skin physiology and differentiation.
Effect of a Moisturizing Active Ingredient on the Expression of Barrier Function-Related
Genes and on Aquaporin Production
Sandy Dumont, Ph.D., Laetitia Cattuzzato, Ambre De Pooter, Gaelle Vincent and
Severine Sigurani
Seppic
OBJECTIVE
A proper skin barrier function results from appropriate histological structuring and cell-cell
communications at both the epidermal and the dermal levels and between these two tissues. More
precisely, the establishment and the maintain of the different inter-keratinocyte junctions as well
as that of the cornified layer are of a great importance for the skin to ensure its protection
function. Among the different kinds of junctions, the presence of aquaporins, and particularly
that of one of their main components, aquaporins-3 (AQP-3), has been recently reported as
essential.
Xylityl glucoside (XG) is a moisurizing active ingredient, which efficacy had been clinically
proven. Its mode of action had been partially elucidated, our previous results having shown that it
was able to increase both the production of glycosaminoglycanes (which are considered as “water
reservoirs” in the dermis) in normal human fibroblasts and that of ceramides in the epidermis.
The aim of this study was thus to further investigate its regulation properties, within the
epidermis, on the genes or proteins involved in skin barrier function.
METHODOLOGY
A blind transcriptomic screening was performed on reconstructed epidermis (REp) which were
composed of normal human keratinocytes (NHK) and which were topically treated with a XG
containing- formulation (3%) (vs. placebo-treated REp). This study was carried out by
quantitative (q) reverse transcription (RT)-polymerase chain reaction (PCR) analysis of the
effects on epidermal differentiation and barrier function related genes using low density TaqMan
(Straticell). Pathway analysis of XG-induced gene regulations was performed with the
GeneSpring® software (Agilent).
A protein screening was performed in parallel by western-blot against AQP-3 on XG-treated
NHK. (vs. untreated cells).
RESULTS
First, as expected, the qRT-PCR screening confirmed that XG, when topically applied on REp,
was able to induce an increase in the level of expression of epidermal differentiation and barrierfunction related genes in comparison with placebo formulation-treated REp. Fold-change and
pathway analyses showed that XG targets included genes encoding proteins involved in
keratinocyte-keratinocyte junctions (claudins, corneodesmosin, AQP-3…), enzymes and
structural components of the cornified layer (transglutaminases; loricrin…), as well as epidermal
differentiation (involucrin, kallikreins…). Unsurprisingly, most of these genes belonged to the
famous epidermal differentiation complex 1q21, including less known, genes such as repetin.
Western-blot analysis showed that XG was able to induce an increase in the expression of AQP-3
when added to the culture medium of NHK.
Thus, despite the differences between the two models (respectively 3D and 2D ones) and
between their respective treatment (topical application vs. culture medium), XG was able to
regulate, at least partially, the same skin barrier function-related targets.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, taken together, these results show that XG is able to regulate at both gene and protein
levels, the structural components and the metabolic regulators involved in epidermal differentiation.
They also enlighten XG ability to regulate the main skin barrier function-related networks. Further
protein confirmations will be required to confirm its action on all these newly identified targets.
Glycation and Glycotoxins in Skin: Inhibition and Reversal?
Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Philippe Mondon, Ph.D., Emmanuel Doridot, Olga Gracioso and
Nada Andre
Sederma
OBJECTIVE
Glycation is an unspecific reaction of sugars and its derivatives with proteins, leading to
reticulation, AGEs and other glycotoxins, damaging the skin. The objective of our work was to
study and understand further details of the glycation process in the skin as well as the
mechanisms of action in inhibiting or even reversing the reactions.
METHODOLOGY
Culture of human fibroblasts; use of 3D skin explants; ELISA and immunefluorescence tagging,
measurements of melatonine, AGEs in vitro and in vivo, enzyme kinetics (glyoxalase,
proteasome), measurement of skin structure with Reviscometer (acoustical wave propagation)
RESULTS
A plant extract of Albizia julibrissin inhibits noxious effects of methylglyoxal, a major
glycotoxin: it restores melatonin synthesis (+38%, p<0.01), decreases carboxymethyllysine
production (-45%, p<0.05) and fluorescent AGEs (-23%, p<0.01), increases glyoxalase
(detoxifying enzyme) activity (+41%, p<0.01), stimulates proteasome activity (p<0.05),
maintains and repairs fibroblast contractile capacity via vimentin deglycation, reduces lipofuscine
waste and decreases glycation induced vascular damages. Clinical studies with AGEmeter show
a decrease (inhibition and deglycation) of AGEs in vivo, and restructuring of disorganized skin
protein fibers (Reviscometer study) with significant (p<0.05 and p<0.01) results. Self-evaluation
of the face by the panelists confirm the improvement in skin appearance.
CONCLUSION
Glycation has been named one of the major causes of skin aging, independent of sun exposure. A
few ingredients (aminoguanidine) are known as inhibitors of this process; the present plant
extract not only inhibits but reverses some of the damages incurred by glycotoxins via new
mechanisms (proteasome activation, glyoxalase activation).
SCIENTIFIC SESSION D
1:30 p.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Formulation: What’s New?
Moderator – Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D., Procter & Gamble
Innovative Formulation Approaches to Deliver Hand Sanitizers with Desirable Aesthetics
and Benefits
Jennie Kravchenko, Mauricio Castro and Lisa Gandolfi
Clariant Corporation
OBJECTIVE
Using innovative approaches, we have identified new formulation methods to create hand
sanitizers (HS) with unique aesthetics, as well as interesting product forms compatible with
benzalkonium chloride (BAC).
METHODS
Stearoxytrimethylsilane undergoes hydrolysis at pH < 6 to form stearyl alcohol, resulting in a
pearlescent appearance. Using design of experiments, stearoxytrimethylsilane concentration,
rheology modifier type and concentration, and mixing parameters were studied in model
formulations. To achieve a surfactant-free BAC foaming HS, polymers with different degrees of
ethoxylation and charge were evaluated. Visual evaluation of clarity and foam, and skin feel
assessment, was performed. Efficacy of the HS was tested using the Time Kill Test based on
ASTM E2315.
RESULTS
A high quantity of small stearyl alcohol particles were formed at 1.5 - 2.0% stearoxytrimethylsilane and
fewer, larger particles were formed at 3.0% stearoxytrimethylsilane. The visual appearance varied from
a pearlized light shimmer to a heavy, glitter-type shimmer. Increasing concentration of AMPS-based
rheology modifier also resulted in a shift from small to large particle size. The chemistry of the rheology
modifier affected final product appearance, ranging from metallic luster to opaque cream. Processing at
a high mix speed for < 5 minutes yielded low pearlescence and low viscosity (1,400 cP), whereas 170180 RPM for 35 minutes yielded high shimmer, high viscosity (65,000 cP). In the BAC foaming HS
formulation, 5% PEG-6 produced a clear system with stable, voluminous foam. Bubble size and density
was more uniform than the benchmark market product. Hand sanitizers met the acceptance criteria for
Disinfectant/Antiseptics with > 6 log reduction at 1 minute.
CONCLUSION
Pearlescent HS provide a new aesthetic for the category. Benzalkonium chloride compatible
formulations overcome current challenges for formulators. Using existing ingredients in unique
ways provides increased formulation options for developing non-traditional products.
Understanding the Influence of Emulsifiers, Emollients and Additives on Lamellar Phases
in Cosmetic Emulsions
Juergen Meyer, Ph.D. and Brajesh Jha, Ph.D.
Evonik Goldschmidt
OBJECTIVE
Lamellar phases, formed by combinations of emulsifiers and consistency modifiers such as
Stearyl Alcohol or Glyceryl Stearate, are classical tools for stabilizing cosmetic O/W emulsions.
Emulsion properties like appearance, texture, sensory aspects, water resistancy, high temperature
stability and overall robustness against critical additives depend very much on the nature of these
liquid crystalline structures.
The formation of liquid crystalline networks in emulsions has systematically been studied for a
new PEG-free O/W emulsifier (Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate) and a classical ethoxylated
O/W emulsifier (Ceteareth-25) Moreover, the influence of different co-emulsifiers and various
types of oils has been examined.
METHODOLOGY
Oscillatory rheological measurements, Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Small
Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS) methods and PFG-NMR measurements have been used to
systematically understand the influence of emulsifiers, emollients and additives on the formation
of lamellar networks in emulsions. Especially the use of neutron scattering is a powerful tool for
the examination of bilayer structures in cosmetic emulsions, as methods like light scattering or
light microscopy are not suitable for the detection of liquid crystalline structures in emulsions
that have a domain size that is smaller than 500 nm (as is the case in most cosmetic emulsions).
RESULTS
It can be shown that Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate forms liquid crystalline gel structures
(bilayers) in water even if no additional consistency enhancers (e.g. Stearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl
Stearate) are added. This finding explains why this emulsifier can be used without additional
consistency enhancers for manufacturing of O/W lotion systems. Upon addition of consistency
enhancers, the bilayer structure remains intact but the overall rigidity of the bilayer is increasing.
However, in order to obtain a significant viscosity build-up in emulsions, it is an essential
requirement that oil droplets are present.
Ceteareth-25 forms basically similar bilayer structures when combined with fatty alcohols. The
formation process of the bilayers and the structures in the final emulsions are comparable to the
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate system. However, it can be demonstrated that the PEG-free
emulsifier system is far more robust and versatile when oil phases of different polarities are used.
CONCLUSION
O/W creams stabilized by combinations of emulsifiers and consistency enhancers consist of oil
droplets and liquid crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase (mostly vesicles).
O/W creams are not thickened by the pure presence of liquid crystalline bilayer structures in the
emulsion. A significant amount of additional oil is needed in order to obtain a cream-like
consistency. As a direct consequence of these studies, a more realistic model can be proposed for
the actual structure of liquid crystalline phases in cosmetic O/W emulsions and more efficient
predictions can be made about the influence of various ingredients on emulsion properties.
Development of a Novel, Soothing Tissue Incorporating Phase Change Materials
Jeffery R. Seidling, Scott Wenzel, Helen Moen and Corey Cunningham, Ph.D.
Kimberly Clark Corporation
OBJECTIVE
The objective of this research was to study and understand the use of phase change materials
(PCM) neat, in formulations, and coated on facial tissue to induce a cooling sensation. In
addition to formulations passing standard stability and preservative efficacy tests, coated tissue
prototypes were required to pass panel tests for aesthetics perception, soothing, and exaggerated
use to ensure marketplace acceptability.
METHODOLOGY
Formulations were subjected to the following screening criteria: differential scanning calorimetry
(DSC) to determine melt point, enthalpy, and formulation stability after several freeze-thaw
cycles; standard formulation stability protocols were executed to ensure product performance,
modified preservative efficacy testing to ensure that formulation did not encourage microbial
growth; a soothing clinical on coated tissue prototypes to show soothing benefit versus controls;
an exaggerated wiping test to ensure safety in use of coated tissue; and an aesthetics perception
test to gauge consumer acceptability of hand feel.
RESULTS
Stearyl heptanoate was chosen as the PCM based on DSC and formulation stability work.
Multiple formulations containing the PCM were developed, coated on tissue and tested. Three of
the tested prototypes were statistically equivalent or better than controls for aesthetics perception,
soothing, and exaggerated use. Two of these formulations were discounted due to formulation
freeze thaw instability and/or processing issues on current assets. The final code met all
processing and stability requirements.
CONCLUSION
Compositions containing PCM can be formulated and coated on tissue to elicit a soothing
benefit. The results of panel tests for aesthetics perception, soothing, and exaggerated use
confirms the applicability and relevance of this formulation technology for use on facial tissue.
A Breakthrough Approach to Lip Balm Sunscreen Formulation – Savor the Flavor
Gary Agisim, Richard Kenny, Bhal Patel and Angela Eppler, Ph.D.
Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
Human lips are prone to sun damage when exposed to UVA and/or UVB radiation. Efficacious
protection from UVA and UVB radiation requires the use of significant quantities of sunscreen
and often a mixture of organic sunscreens to achieve protection from both UVA and UVB
radiation. UVB, which is radiation in the 290nm – 320nm wavelength can produce sever burning
of the lips which have little or no melanin, while UVA, which is in the 320nm – 400nm
wavelength range, can cause damage to gene P53 DNA, possibly leading to cancer. The longer
UVA wavelengths allow for deeper penetration into the lip potentially causing damage to the
elastic fibers and collagen which give lips their characteristic shape resulting in wrinkling and the
appearance of premature aging. Thus protecting the lips from both UVA and UVB is important
to the maintenance of lip health and appearance.
Unfortunately, sunscreens, particularly organic sunscreens have a bad taste. Some sunscreens
including Avobenzone have a very bad taste. Taste, while not an issue for lotions applied to the
body, becomes a significant problem when sunscreens are incorporated into lip balms particularly
those containing Avobenzone which is the most efficacious ingredient for UVA protection.
Formulation of lip balms with an SPF 30 or greater, which represents significant UVB
protection, results in products with an unpleasant taste compromising consumer use and proper
compliance for effective protection. The addition of Avobenzone to such compositions to
provide UVA protection significantly exacerbates the problem.
Research in our laboratory has demonstrated that combining the sunscreens with Sorbeth-2Hexolate, in the molecular configuration of a spider ester taste masks the sunscreen and allows
for full sunscreen potency. The data will present several formulations at various ratios of
sunscreens to various spider esters using different method of forming an association between the
sunscreen and the spider ester. In-vitro and in-vivo sunscreen testing data will be presented to
demonstrate the efficacy of the sunscreens in achieving an SPF of 50+ with significant UVA
protection while maintaining a very pleasant taste. Formulation studies using various lip balm
bases, including a non-petrolatum base utilizing advanced silicone technology, will demonstrate
the ability to incorporate the sunscreen / spider ester combination into novel lip balm bases for
superior application and lip feel. Clinical studies will further demonstrate formulas containing
hyaluroinc acid derivatives result in a clinically effective product that can support label claims
for the improved, more youthful, appearance associated with established anti-aging cosmetic
ingredients --- while continuing to maintain superior taste. Multiple examples of formulas will
be presented. The theory of taste improvement with spider esters will be demonstrated with
molecular diagrams.
This paper will demonstrate that a commercial lip balm product with superior UVA and UVB
protection, excellent lip feel, and very pleasant taste can be formulated and manufactured.
COSA Mini-Breakfast Seminars
Thursday, May 31st. - 7:30 a.m. - 8:50 a.m.
A. Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development
Wen Schroeder, RAC
Seki Cosmeticals, LLC
ABSTRACT SUMMARY:
“Green” is the current buzzword for the global consumer market. An average consumer can
not go through the day without being constantly bombarded by products claiming to carry a
certain shade of green-ness. This paper explains the cause of this green revolution and its
potential impact on product, technology and global legislation.
INTRODUCTION:
The Green movement in the US originated in the 1960s as the American public witnessed in
horror a series of increasingly disastrous environmental contamination caused by kepone, heavy
metals, vinyl chloride, polychlorinated biphenyls & chlorofluorocarbons. Globally, the
environmental consciousness also surged similarly and continued so well into the 1980s. Paul
Ehrlich, an American biologist and educator, published The Population Bomb in 1968, and in
1972 the book, a controversial landmark, The Limits to Growthi, was published by a project team
within the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Both emphasized that in a finite world,
unlimited growth cannot be sustained. The 1980s ushered in another wave of rapid global
economic growth, coupled by falling energy costs and globalization. But the new found growth
and wealth carried its hidden cost. Globalization did not just facilitate major redistribution of
wealth; it also tied societies and their environmental fates into one dynamic, interrelated and
connected ecocosm. We were constantly bombarded with news of human assaults to the
environment; while the rate of erosion of natural resources quickened with the spread of
globalization. With the 1989 crash of the Exxon Valdez in Alaska, the environmental awareness
in the US peaked to new height; people started to believe the US spent too little on improving
and protecting the environment, while more people were willing to pay more for environmental
protection. The public began to realize no economic growth could be made totally
environmentally benign. A cost-effective, greener growth (a.k.a., Sustainable Development) has
to be considered via a well-designed environmental framework addressing the entire product
lifecycle, taking into consideration the balance between human economic growth and the entire
ecosystem. ii
Modern consumers grow increasingly concerned with their daily chemical use, in particular,
the personal care products. Mass media continues to introduce new, more sensational headlines
outlining the newest discoveries of “toxic” chemicals in our daily life. Realistic or perceived,
people desire non chemical solutions to these problems. The environmentally wary consumers
turn to products that appear to respond to their concerns. In contrast, Mother Nature is seen as
the most benevolent giver of all life forms. In brief, GREEN is in.
This paper outlines current consumer psyche as the driving force, both from the legislative
and product development standpoints, behind the demand for “chemical free” living. Also
discussed are impacts of such “chemo-aversion” attitude on global consumer market & product
development, including ingredient selection based on sustainability principles, the proliferation
& the state of confusion regarding green product standards, the future use of nanomaterials,
sunscreen agents, preservatives and other controversial ingredients.
B. Internet/Social Networking
Perry Romanowski
The day to day job function of a cosmetic scientist is moving more and more out of the lab and
onto a computer. If one is not careful, one can waste many hours on minimally productive
activities like email, presentation creation and web surfing. However, when used properly, the
Internet can be a lucrative source of innovation, new product ideas, research, networking and
problem solving. It can even be a place to inexpensively test products before deciding to invest
heavily in a launch.
In this talk the five key areas for most productive use of the Internet are described. These
include:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
A review of open innovation resources
Specialized search engines from Google and beyond
Leveraging social media outlets to find solutions to formulation problems
Using blogs and forums to figure out what consumers want
How to test products before inventing them
The world is changing rapidly, at Internet Speed and companies that don’t adapt and incorporate
new technologies will be left behind by the ones that do. This must attend talk will jet propel
your approach to your job, whether it be in technology, marketing or the business end of our
industry.
Friday, June 1st. - 7:30 a.m. - 8:50 a.m.
C. Formulations: What’s New?
Mark Chandler
Croda
Aesthetics / Audience / Claims / Cost / Packaging / Performance / Policies / Price /
Regulations…
There is a lot to consider when formulating a cosmetic product. The forces listed above are often
at odds with the others, creating tension for the formulator (and everyone else in an
organization.) This is nothing new. What is new is the speed at which the formulation process
must take place (question from Marketing: “why do 3 month stability tests have to take 12
week??”) Competition in the cosmetic marketplace is fiercer than ever before. The flow of
information (positive and negative) about products and ingredients is faster and much more
difficult to manage.
This mini-breakfast session will review strategies to enable formulators to better tailor aesthetics
to a target audience and work in conjunction with claims, enhance performance, and ultimately
sell more products. The formulation process can be greatly reduced. The driver to attain these
results will be surprising to many. Formulators’ relationship with Marketing can be restored (or
at least peaceful coexistence can be achieved.)
CONTINUING EDUCATION PROGRAMS*
BEGINNING COSMETIC CHEMISTRY
Instructed by Perry Romanowski
Wednesday, May 30, 2012 * 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
COURSE OUTLINE
This course is designed with beginning cosmetic chemists in mind. However, information
presented will also be useful for QA chemists and seasoned veteran scientists who want to learn
about other areas of formulations, scientists in related industries, college students studying
chemistry and marketing or sales people who could use a primer about the chemistry of their
products.
THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
Introduction to the industry, basic
physiology of skin and hair
Industry jargon and nomenclature
Tools of the trade
KEY RAW MATERIALS AND VEHICALS
Surfactants, emollients, humectants,
polymers preservatives fragrances, colors
Emulsions, aerosols, gels, sticks
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Formulation techniques
Idea generation
PRODUCT TESTING
Quality control testing
Product performance testing
Claims substantiation testing
SCALE UP AND PROCESSING COSMETIC FORMULATIONS
Instructed by David Yacko
Wednesday, May 30, 2012 * 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
COURSE OUTLINE
This course will give students a basic understanding of scale-up and process variables so the first
production batches can be manufactured more easily and with meaningful input on the part of the
compounder. In the cosmetic industry it is imperative that new products get from the bench to
manufacturing as quickly as possible. This is the job of the Process Development Engineer and
the process is called scaleup. The talk will discuss the different aspects of scaleup: heat transfer,
addition rates and energy input as it pertains to batch size and different equipment.
I. Scale Up Introduction
II. Cosmetic Processing Equipment
Continuous
Heating/Cooling
Mass Transfer
Controlling Shear
A. Vessels
B. Mixers
B. Emulsions/Solids
Shade
Matching
C. High Shear Mixers
Requirements
Batch
Inline
D. Pumps
List/Details/Controls
III. Scale Up Parameters and Variables
Concerns/Requirements
A. Liquids-Emulsions-Emulsions/Solids
Batch
Heating/Cooling
Mass Transfer
Controlling Shear
IV. Procedure
A. Terms
B. Equipment
C. Filling