GAY SUNDAY WALKING GROUP WALKS THE VANGUARD WAY
The Gay Sunday Walking Group broke new ground last summer and walked its first
long-distance path. This was the 65 mile Vanguard Way which starts from Croydon
and finishes on the South Coast at Seaford. This took place on 6 Saturdays from April
to September. The walk was divided into sections mostly about 10 miles long and
using public transport, which is usual practice for GSWG all day walks. There were
about 11 members on each leg, but 4 members walked the whole 65 miles and posed
for photos on the beach with a view of the famous Seven Sisters cliffs in the
background.
The Vanguard Way is not a formal long-distance footpath, although most of it is now
way-marked and it is shown on the latest Ordnance Survey maps. It was originally
inspired by a comparatively small group of walkers based in Croydon known as the
Vanguards Rambling Club.
There are 2 aspects to this walk that I find particularly interesting. First, it dispels the
myth that the whole of South-East England is bricks, mortar and motorways. In
general we were walking a few miles to the east of the main London to Brighton rail
and road corridor, but through almost unspoilt country-side. Second, we were walking
across the grain of the land, crossing ridges and vales of various rocks: chalk, clay and
sandstones. Each of these rocks produces different vegetation and scenery.
Notes on the Geology and Scenery
These layers of rocks were originally horizontal, with the youngest on top. They were
made when this part of England was at various times desert, swamp and sea.
Underneath the London Clay is a layer of chalk (formed out of the remains of sea
creatures); the next layer is called Gault Clay; the next the Greensand; then another
layer of clay; and finally the oldest which is a hard sandstone. About the time when
the Alps were formed, these layers were bent into a dome shape. Since then, the
softer, younger rocks have been worn away in the middle by erosion, thus exposing
the older rocks in turn. This is shown in the following diagram:
As one can see, the successive layers of rock are exposed in youngest to oldest
sequence going away from London, with the old sandstone being exposed in what is
called the High Weald. The sequence is then repeated in reverse as one gets towards
the South Coast.
Section 1. 26th April 2008. Croydon to Oxted.
We started off on the fringe of London and climbed what is called the “dip slope” of
the chalk North Downs. This is a slow, gradual climb, levelling off towards the
summit. This section finished off with the steep descent (called the “scarp slope”) into
Oxted. This is where we saw typical chalk wild flowers in short grass with the chalk
partly visible.
Section 2. 24th May 2008. Oxted to Edenbridge.
We retraced our steps to the “scarp slope” of the North Downs and clearly saw the
narrow vale formed by the Gault Clay, and the town of Oxted, with the Greensand
Ridge behind. Beyond that we were able to glimpse both the Low Weald and the High
Weald which we would be walking across. We followed along the North Downs for a
while and then crossed the clay vale (unfortunately somewhat spoilt by the M25) and
then climbed the Greensand Ridge to Limpsfield Chart for a pub lunch. By then the
vegetation was quite different, with bracken, gorse, heather, silver-birch trees and
conifers. We then descended into the clay Low Weald to Edenbridge. Again, the
vegetation changed to a lush pastoral landscape.
Section 3. 21st June 2008. Edenbridge to Forest Row.
We followed the valley of the River Eden, again through lush pastoral country, but
gradually we started to climb up onto the High Weald which is an old hard sandstone.
This sandstone is hard enough to enable rock climbing to take place in the Tunbridge
Wells area. The vegetation is similar to that on the younger sandstone which we saw
round Limpsfield. This section was unspoilt countryside with very little habitation.
Section 4. 26th July 2008. Forest Row to Buxted.
This section was one of the best and very similar to the section of the Wealdway
which we walked in May. Still on the High Weald sandstone, we climbed right up to
the summit of the Ashdown Forest for a picnic lunch with splendid views. We crossed
the Wealdway and then we had a long descent to Buxted, where there was a welcome
pub before the train journey back to London..
Section 5. 23rd August 2008. Buxted to Berwick.
At 15 miles this was the longest section. We were still on the High Weald and there
was more climbing before our early lunch stop at Blackboys. Eventually after
Chiddingley we descended into the second part of the Low Weald. This is where we
now see the sequence of rocks in reverse. The chalk South Downs loomed
tantalisingly ahead, but we did not quite reach them. Just before we reached Berwick,
we crossed the Greensand again, but on the south side it does not form a definite ridge
of hills. Some of us had a pub meal at Berwick before returning to London.
Section 6. 27th September 2008. Berwick to Seaford.
This was the culmination and the “cream on the cake”. It was a perfect September
day. Crossing the Gault Clay again, at last we approached the chalk south Downs. We
briefly stopped at Berwick church which has wall paintings by Vanessa Bell and
Duncan Grant (both members of “The Bloomsbury Set”). In many ways the South
Downs form a more typical chalk landscape than the North Downs, because the South
Downs are extensively grazed by sheep. The lunch stop was at the picturesque village
of Alfriston, which the group has visited when we have had week-ends at Brighton.
At first, we followed alongside the River Cuckmere which cuts through the Downs.
The next section was strenuous climbing over the Downs, rewarded by spectacular
views of the River as it approaches the sea and then by a cream tea. We then walked
to the mouth of the River where we posed for photos on the beach in front of what is
regarded as one the best views in Britain: the view of the Seven Sisters Cliffs, where
the South Downs meet the sea. We were tempted to have a paddle having walked all
the way from London to the coast. Turning west along the cliffs, we walked to
Seaford for the train back home, with the views of the Seven Sisters behind us.
Peter Graham Scott
January 2009