29th Annual Meeting and National Symposium Gateways of Fashion: Influence of Global Trading June 11-15, 2003 Charleston, South Carolina Abstracts edited by Irene Romaniw, Parks Canada, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Thursday Morning, June 12: Juried Papers Paris in San Francisco: Marketing European Style from California Sheryl Birkner, Independent Researcher Fact, Fantasy and Folly: Hollywood Portrays the American Department Store Sheryl Farnan Leipzig, Iowa State University Javanese Influence in American Fashion in the Early 20th Century Abby Lillethun, University of Rhode Island Trajectories of Culture and Trade: Italian Coral Beads in a Global Market Place Susan J. Torntore, Illinois State University Thursday Afternoon, June 12: Concurrent Sessions Fundraising for Small Profit Organizations Bill Mott, President and Founder, Heritage Funding Associates Hands-On Web Design for Costume Related Sites, 2 Parts Chairs: Margot Ayer and Charlotte Hall Hamilton Publishing 101 for the Field, 2 Parts Chair: Sally Queen Preserving Our Past, 2 Parts Chair: Janet Hasson Involving Children in Historic Programming Chair: Irene Romaniw Costume Information and Education/ Spreading the Word Chairs: Phyllis Specht and Edward Maeder Friday Morning, June 13: Juried Papers Imaginary Dress? Invented Drapery? Timeless Costume? Studio Props? Try Turkish Patricia C. Warner, University of Massachusetts, Amherst Charlotte Jirousek, Cornell University Constructing an Imported Appearance in the Connecticut River Valley: The 1742 Wedding Gown of Elizabeth Pitkin Porter David E. Lazaro, Historic Deerfield, Inc Foreign Goods, Cotton and Wool: The Importation of Textiles and Garments into New England, 1700-1800 Edward F. Maeder, Historic Deerfield, Inc Smuggling Textiles in 18th Century England Susan North, Victoria and Albert Museum China Trade Textiles and The Rhode Island Wardrobe Madelyn Shaw, Rhode Island School of Design Scare Buying and Other Wartime Phenomena: U.S. Women’s Fashion 19411946 Pamela Soohoo, Bruce Museum of Arts and Science From Finland With Love: Design Research and the Marimekko Phenomenon in America Susan Ward, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Saturday Morning, June 14: Juried Papers The Credibility of Costume Figures in Some of the Murals in the Dunhuang Caves Charlotte Jirousek with Bao Mingxin, first author, Dong Hua University Ning Fangjun, second author, Cornell University Back to the Knitting Needle: Yarn Manufacturers, Retailers and the Image of Knitting in America, 1935-1955 Susan M. Strawn, Iowa State University The Empress’s New Clothes: Multi-Nationalism in the Court of Empress Elizabeth of Russia (1709-1762) Elizabeth Walton, National Museum of the American Indian ............................... Saturday Afternoon, June 14: Poster Session From Desert to Diaspora: A History of Global Influences on Somali Dress Heather Marie Akou, University of Minnesota Symbol of a Profession: One Hundred Years of Nurses’ Caps Christina Bates, Canadian Museum of Civilization Attire for Motoring: Dusters and Beyond Shelly Foote, Smithsonian Institute Crochet Work of German-American Women in Missouri: Cross Cultural Artifacts as Symbols of Acculturation Joyce Starr Johnson, Fontbonne University Laurel E. Wilson, University of Missouri, Columbia What Does Dress Tell Us About Culture? Linda B. Reilly, Montclair State University Les Fichus Madras: French Women’s Headwraps of the 1810s Ann B. Wass, Riversdale House Museum Adaptation of Cross-Cultural Costume Influences by Rodeo Cowgirls, 1920-1947 Jennifer E. Nielsen, National Cowgirl Museum Linking the Past and Future: Students Develop an Online Historic Costume Exhibit Julianne Trautmann, Illinois State University Catherine R. Boyd, Mississippi State University Using a Costume Collection as a Tool for Fundraising Monica Phillippe McMurry, Stephens College Defiance, Disillusionment, Decadence: An Exhibit of Dress and Culture of the 1960s, 70s and 80s Imagery from the “Queen Anne” Hobye Gown Brenda Buller Focht, Riverside Municipal Museum Lynn Voorhees, Riverside Municipal Museum Teresa Woodard, Riverside Municipal Museum Dayna Minter, University of California, Riverside The High Opinion You Have of My Taste: The Salem Towne Family Sets the Style in Worcester County Aimee E. Newell, Old Sturbridge Village From Farm Girl to Flapper: 1920s in Allen County, Ohio M. Lynn Barnes, Bluffton College Saturday Afternoon, July 14: Juried Papers Coping With Wartime in the U.S. Bra Business, 1939-1946 Jane Farrell-Beck, Iowa State University Pola Stout and the American Design Movement: 1941-1952 Clare M. Sauro, The Museum at FIT Trading Talent: The Multi-Cultural Influence of Non-French Designers in the French Haute Couture Jo Ann C. Stabb, University of California, Davis Button, Button, Who’s Got the Button Gene Annette Burger, STEPS in Time Bookstore and Coffeehouse New Immigrants, New Cities, New Clothes: Men’s Ready-Wear Manufacturers in America, 1830-1870 Phyllis Dillon, Yevshiva University Museum Clothing and the Perception of Ethnicity: Californios in Southern California Photographs 1850-1870 Carol A. Bowdoin Gil, California State University, Long Beach