The Australian National
Cockatiel Society
A.R.B.N. 065 793 044
PO Box 1248
Fortitude Valley. Qld. 4006
Club Web site: www.cockatielsociety.org.au
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Committee members 2010
President’s Report
Calendar of Events
Secretary’s Report
Legring Steward’s Report
Membership details
What is Foraging?
Suffused (Olive) Cockatiels
2010 PSOA Bird Fair
2010 ANCS Autumn how details
Guide to Showing
New Sales Table Explained
Cage Territoriality
Product Table Pricelist
Bird Steward’s Report
Birds ‘n’ Things
What’s on in Aviculture
Beenleigh Bird Breeders Sale
Avian Vet Listing
Our thanks to
SNAP Printing Brendale
For the production of our club journal.
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Committee Members
2010
Executive Committee
President
Maureen Blair
Vice-President
David Heyden
Secretary
Scott Morris
Treasurer
Scott Morris
Bird Steward
Geoff Watts
Editor
Jo-Anne Watts
Ring Steward
David Heyden
Webmaster
Jo-Anne Watts
07 3344 2910
president@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3371 3239
vpresident@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3342 3555
secretary@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3342 3555
treasurer@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3269 9590
birdsteward@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3269 9590
editor@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3371 3239
ringsteward@cockatielsociety.org.au
07 3269 9590
webmaster@cockatielsociety.org.au
Honorary Life Members
Trish Lock
Mike Ashton
Robyn Ashton
Terry Casey
Maureen & George Blair
Doug & Doreen West
1994
1997
1997
1999
2007
2008
Please remember that when contacting any committee members by phone,
to respect their personal lives and call before 8.00pm.
An official publication of the Australian National Cockatiel Society Inc.
ANCS Journal Volume 21 Issue 2
Mar/Apr 2010
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President’s Report
Gee whiz, how time flies! We are into April already and
Easter is over. It has been a terrible year so far for some and I
hope you have not been dealt too harshly by floods, bushfires,
hail storms or cyclones. There always seems to something
happening!
Our first Table Show for the year is on this month. I hope that
everyone within safe driving distance can make it along on Saturday April 17th to
either show us what they have and exhibit some birds or meet with this years
committee and other members and enjoy some stimulating conversation and a
relaxing afternoon tea while we await the judges decision! Saturday May 22nd is
the date decided on as our second show date and to see you all on both days
would be wonderful!
I am glad to see so many members re-join again and continue to be a part of the
best and only club in Australia dedicated solely to the Cockatiel. I hope that
those of you that have not renewed do so soon. And I also wish to welcome the
new members that have joined us – great to have you along!
Lastly I would like to thank Scott for representing the ANCS at the recent Parrot
Society State Bird Fair. A rundown on how the day went is further on in this
Journal.
Well that is about all I have for this edition – short and sweet – not long enough
for you to get bored.Hope to see you at the next meeting.
Maureen Blair
President 2010
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Enter your birds in the
2010 Autumn ANCS Show
details on page 19
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Calendar of Events
Each year the ANCS holds various gatherings that include general meetings,
Show & sale Days and appearances at public venues as promotional events.
Below is the calendar for the year as organised to date.
Next General Meeting
April /May meetings will be held on the respective show days
June – Tuesday 15th
July – Tuesday 20th
October – Tuesday 19th
November – Tuesday 16th
December AGM (TBA)
These meetings are held at Dutton Park State School starting at 7:30pm and are
advertised in the Courier Mail “Poultry and Birds” section the Saturday before.
Show & Sale Days
April Table Show (first half) – Saturday 17th
May Table Show (second half) – Saturday 22nd
August Table Show (first half) – Saturday (Date TBC)
September Table Show (second half) – Saturday (Date TBC)
*Festival of Feathers
June (Date TBC)
There are normally 2 of our shows held each year. One is in Autumn and one in
Spring. More information is always provided in the journal immediately
preceding the event as well as the usual advertising in the Courier Mail.
Promotional Events
No events as this stage
For more info on an upcoming event please see our website
http://www.cockatielsociety.org.au/articles/calendar_of_events.htm
Or phone the secretary on 07 33423555
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Secretary’s Report
Yvonne Schuetze, Edward Chrysiliou,
and Trevor Wilmshurst
Another blur rushes by and Easter is gone!
I hope that all faired okay with the fires, storms and floods that threatened a large
number of areas of Australia recently. These sort of things show us just how
prepared we are for an emergency or a disaster. This, along with fire training at
work recently, has definitely made me think about what I would do in a crisis at
home with my many birds.
Firstly, thanks to all that have paid their membership fees for 2010 and those of
you who have not, a reminder is enclosed. Please don’t forget to send your
payment and continue to be a part of the ANCS otherwise this will be your last
Journal 
April and May are both exciting months because we again have our Table Shows
happening. More details are further on in this Journal but I will mention that
prizes will be awarded and this is a great opportunity to show off your own
Cockatiels and have a wonderful time doing so. Last year was a success and a
learning experience for all, with knowledge gained on preparation of your birds to
what to look for in your next champion. It was held, and will again this year,
with a positive, fun atmosphere with no sheep stations at stake and a light-hearted
but professional search to find the best birds able to be benched within the ANCS.
If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact any member of the
committee.
I must apologise for the cancellation of our first meeting for 2010 due to the bad
storms that were lashing Brisbane in February. A bad storm had created havoc in
Brisbane centre within a short time of the scheduled start of the meeting creating
flooding and traffic chaos. All of the “regulars” had contacted each other but
unfortunately some, including a few new comers, braved the weather to show up.
It was great to see them all front up again in March which turned out to be a very
lively meeting including my short video of Oscar the Platinum cock bird putting
on a small show with the help of my wife Karen.
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So, a busy year is well underway with a few sales coming up soon as well as the
Festival of Feathers at the Ipswich Showgrounds in June. Please check our
Calendar of Events and What’s on in Aviculture sections for details and more. I
look forward to running into as many of you as I can at one of these events.
Lastly and as previously mentioned, if there is anything that you would like to see
in our Journal or something that you have written and would like to have printed,
please get in touch with myself or our Editor, Jo-Anne and we will see what we
can do. Volunteers are very rarely turned away when there are things to do and
remember this is YOUR club, participate and enjoy it as much as you can.
I look forward to seeing you all at our 2 upcoming shows. Best of luck with
showing and may the best bird win on the day!
Regards
Scott
ANCS Secretary/Treasurer 2010
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY & BEST WISHES
To: -
March
Michele Clatworthy,
Yvonne Haywood, Danielle Cox,
Amanda Vetter, Vicki Atherton, Mary Lomas,
Edward Chrysiliou , Kim Cooney.
April
Brian Higginbotham,
Gary Zabel, Don Herr, Robert Clatworthy,
Doug Higgins, Stephen Wall, David Botham,
Wendy Craggs, Robert Rowland, Steve Clarke
(We apologise if we have missed your birthday, please drop us an
email or a letter so that we can update our records)
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Leg Ring Steward’s
Report
The year is well underway now and fast approaching the breeding session, so get
your orders in for this years leg rings. As reported in the last journal, a third of
the leg rings have already been sold. Leg rings will be available for purchase at
the upcoming Cockatiel shows.
I would like to stress the advantages once again that this club has to offer in
terms of providing individually numbered leg rings for each calendar year,
allowing the club to track down the owner of any escapee. I would also like to
take this opportunity to outline the role that the members of this club have in
recording the details of any birds that are breed and sold with ANCS leg rings.
Without complete and accurate record keeping, including a description of the
bird, names and contact details of the purchaser, a key benefit to the community
is lost, with poor "Johnny" never getting "Mr Tweety" back again. I am happy to
report a recent event which saw the club being able to reunite a pet cockatiel
with its owner after being missing for a long period of time. These types of good
news stories shine a good light on the club and the efforts of its members.
David Heyden
Email: legringsteward@cockatielsociety.org.au
ph: 07 3371 3239
BLUE 2010 ANCS LEG RINGS
POSTAGE $2.00 up to qty 100, $2.50 thereafter.
ANCS LEG RINGS (10=$6)
(25=$15) (50=$30) (75=$45) (100=$60)
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All members and guests welcome to our
April Meeting and Show Day
Saturday April 17th 2.00pm
Dutton Park State School
Bring along your birds to show and be ready for a
Open Forum Chat and afternoon Tea!!
--ooo000ooo--7
2010 Membership
NOW OVERDUE!!!!
Congratulations our fees have remained low!!
CURRENT FEES:
Standard $30.00 people over 18 yrs of age
Pensioner/Junior $24.50 under 18 or card holder
Overseas $42.00 residing outside Australia
What your membership gives you:
 6 editions of the ANCS Journal
Claimed to be the best around by other bird clubs
 Access to Club Legrings
Only legrings available that are listed in a register
 FREE website advertising in the breeder listing
Banners for your aviary can be arranged by webmaster
 FREE Tieltrader advertising on website and in the
ANCS journal
Buy/Sell Ads to be sent to editor before each journal
 Discounts from our sponsors
These may vary each year depending on sponsors
 Monthly meetings
Guest speakers and round table discussions
 Shows and Sale days
Members can show and sell their birds
 Access to Club Library
An extensive range of avicultural books and videos/DVD’s
All this plus access to a wonderful friendly network of experienced
breeders and owners that are always willing to assist where they can!!
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What is foraging and is it a good thing for
my Cockatiel?
Scott Morris ©
Foraging from the Oxford Pocket Dictionary is “the act of searching for food or
provisions”. In the wild, a bird will spend a large part of its day, 70 to 80%,
foraging for food. Not only is it a must (otherwise the bird will starve) but it is a
physically and mentally stimulating activity. For pet or aviary birds, including
Cockatiels, the food is readily available and “on tap”. Your bird does not require
to exert much physical or mental energy in the pursuit of food.
So now you ask “So? Isn’t it better for them to have the food in front of them and
not have to worry at all about where their next meal is coming from?”
There are several reasons for wanting your bird to have a bit of a forage and not
always have the food presented to them simply and easily. The most obvious is
that your bird benefits by keeping busy and lessens boredom and behavioural
issues.
In the wild, a bird will spend many hours a day searching out food and water,
socialising, preening, flying, playing with other members of its flock, and
sleeping. This results in a very different outcome to the aviary bird. An aviary
bird often misses out on the level of socialising vocally that a wild bird gets. It
also does a lot less flying and a reduced amount of direct interaction with other
members of a flock. This leaves only eating, preening and sleeping for most
aviary and pet birds to pass time.
This is where your problems arise. An aviary or pet bird will replace his missing
“tasks” with undesirable ones or become obsessive about the only pursuits he has
left.
Some of the results are:
 Obesity due to eating too much
 Physically deficient or underdeveloped birds
 Feather damage due to over-preening
 Bad socialising behaviour – e.g. screaming, aggression, single person
bonding
 Generally bored birds.
All of these provide us with birds that are not pleasant to keep and also birds with
a much reduced lifespan. We fail as aviculturists to provide a fully balanced,
enriched environment for our charges to live and flourish in.
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So, what can we do?
There are many things that we can do to help. There are different feeding
methods, toys and everyday items we can use to stimulate and challenge your
bird and some techniques that can assist.
The simplest is to reduce the amount of food presented to your bird in its
favourite or normal feeding bowl. Do not starve the bird, just give them only the
amount of food that they really need in a day. At the same time, introduce and
few extra bowls in different places around the aviary or cage with differing treats
or food types. If your aviary is large enough, promote the bird having to fly from
bowl to bowl. As your bird learns that there are other “feeding stations” within
his patch, reduce the amount of food in the primary bowl encouraging him to
search out more food and not gain his daily ration from one bowl alone.
This is the first and easiest stage in providing your bird with more exercise and
changing a sedentary bird that gets all he needs from one perch into one that is
active and searching out his daily meals. He is basically now starting to forage!
He is also gaining the stimulation of having to think and be more active.
The next step is to encourage the searching and further foraging for food and
treats. An empty cereal carton or tissue box (minus the plastic) is a great way to
start. Place small amounts of treats or even smaller chew toys inside to that the
bird can seek them out. I am sure he will also enjoy tearing the box to pieces!
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You can also use clean brown paper bags in a similar fashion or even place a
small paper cover over a normal food bowl and allow them to seek out the treat
inside. Small finch nests or paper cups will also do the trick.
Another idea is collect clean pine cones and insert small treats (e.g. dried fruit or
nuts) or even paper down into the done encouraging the bird to dig them out and
stimulate their problem solving skills.
Sometimes just serving up their normal fruit and vegetables in a different way can
stimulate and enrich a bird. Why not hang a whole carrot from the top of their
cage rather than cutting it up or give them a full cob of corn! Even wedge pieces
of vegetable into crevices in their toys or forks of branches requires more thought
from the bird than just plopping themselves in front of a bowl. Or how about a
capsicum bowl full of the other fruit and vegetables they love? Just cut the top
off, scoop out all the seeds and then refill with whatever you have. Same thing
works for cucumbers!
Lastly there is some of the simplest things you can do like provide them with
extra natural branches and leaves to chew on. The best are natives with small
buds or seed pods or plenty of bark ready to be ripped off and chewed on. Sisal
rope, cotton rope,
leather strips, wooden
beads are all items that
can be used to
stimulate your birds
alone or together with
treats.
Of course you can also
buy all sorts of plastic
and metal containers
and small cages that
provide you with
receptacles for treats
and food that can be
bought from pet stores
and on-line but they
can become expensive. Often the simplest things are the best but if you need the
extra retail therapy, I am sure your pet will love you just the same. It will provide
you with a little less mess than a pile of ripped and shredded cardboard or paper
and also with a clean, reusable and washable container but it all comes down to
your own preferences.A final extra option for stimulating your bird is to simply
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change their cage or aviary environment around. Move branches to different
heights or angles is one way of promoting exercise. You can also change or
rotate toys inside his surrounding so that he does not become bored with the same
item always swinging in front of him. Remember his favourite toy may just be
that because he has little other choices!
So, we have now created a very stimulating, exercise encouraging, boredom
busting home for our birds to enjoy. Is that it?
Definitely not! It is now very important to not overfeed your newly enthused
bird. Be careful not to overdo nuts or fatty foods. Encourage with non-food
items where possible and monitor your bird for weight gain or loss. If they are
favouring one type of food or treat, use it sparingly and encourage variety.
Remember as in the wild, they will eat what they have to or else they go hungry!
Another essential thing to remember is ALWAYS wash food, branches, toys, or
other items very well and use untanned / untreated leather and untreated / nontoxic timber. If in doubt as to whether something will poison your bird, do not
use it! It is never worth the risk of possibly killing the bird or ending up with a
large vet bill just because we thought something was okay.
So to finish, the next time you are at the grocery store, patiently weaving amongst
the aisles, checking prices, choosing preferred brands, selecting the best fruit,
vegetables or meats; you are foraging. When you go out to the restaurant with
friends, socialise, select your meal, eat and return home, you are also foraging
and stimulating your body and mind. We are completing a scenario that is very
important to man and to animal so if you choose not to accept a boring and poor
lifestyle or food selection, why should you force that upon your birds?
I hope I have given you all some hints, tips or ideas to help you with your bird
enrichment and if you have anything that you would like to know or see an article
written about, please let us know. Of course, you could write an article yourself
and become a contributor to your club Journal.
These ideas are my opinions and suggestions only. They are not necessarily the
views or opinions of the ANCS and should be used at your own risk. Please take
care when using any foods, woods or timbers or other materials and seek advice
or opinions if you are unsure and of course, an avian veterinarian if your birds
show any signs of illness.
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Olive Cockatiels
By Jo-Anne Watts©
When people first hear of the Olive Cockatiel an instant image comes to mind of
an olive-green coloured bird. Unfortunately in most cases this is not what
breeders find and they are often very disillusioned by the true appearance of this
mutation. Emerald is another term used for this mutation overseas and, as is the
same with using the term Olive, it is very misleading. A more correct term that
describes this mutation more accurately is 'Suffused' and that is what I will be
referring to it as.
‘Suffused’ Hen
‘Suffused’ cockbird
Suffused Mutation
Cockatiels have the ability to produce only psittacin (yellow and orange)
pigments and melanin pigments. They can not produce the structural colours
required to give visual or green colouration. Because of this it is impossible for
cockatiels to be Olive in colour.
The effect that is in fact seen in the Australian Olive mutation is due to
a dilute gene that reduces the amount of melanin deposited in the feathers. This
particular ‘dilute’ gene only allows possibly around 10-15% of the normal
melanin to be deposited in the feathers, compared to the pastelsilver (dilute)
mutation that has around 50%. This suffusion of grey melanin pigments and
yellow psittacin pigments gives a combined visual appearance of an olive
cockatiel. This reduction in melanin is the greatest of all the dilute mutations and
as a result allows the normally hidden yellow pigments to become more visible.
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The melanin is not altered as it is in cinnamon etc but prevented from being
deposited in the feathers by this particular ‘Dilute” gene. All other skin and tissue
still shows the normal deposits of melanin and thus birds of this mutation all
show the characteristic dark feet, nails and beak.
This mutation differs to all other known cockatiel mutations in that male of the
species is lighter in colour than the female. Male cockatiels normally darken as
they mature but in the ‘suffused’ mutation they show a significant lightening with
much more of the psittacin(yellow) pigment becoming visible. Another difference
to other mutations is the obvious darker colouring on the front of the bird
compared to a lighter back. The wings and especially the longer flight feathers
are usually always lighter in colour than the shorter body feathers. The melanin
that is deposited seems to vary in the amount in different areas of the feather
giving the colouration an uneven effect for want of a better term.
Another characteristic that has been
noted with this mutation is the
presence of what appears like a hood
in juvenile birds. The head area is
darker coloured down to the neck area.
This can be seen on the baby in the
centre of this picture. This hood seems
to invariably moult out as the bird
matures.
Each of these babies varied greatly in
their actual colour. The baby in the
centre looked to be ‘olive’ coloured due to the larger amount of psittacin pigment
that was visible. The other 2 had less yellow and would be said to look more
silvery.
The hen in this picture is a 3 month old
juvenile whiteface suffused (olive). In
the whiteface mutation seeing there is no
yellow produced at all the term ‘olive’
has no basis whatsoever. I have had
many worried looks from people when
asked what mutation these birds are and
have said whiteface olive. As a result I
now use the term ‘suffused’ when
introducing people to this mutation.
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There has also been mention in this mutation of what is termed ‘light phase’ and
‘dark phase’. Within the same clutch of babies some birds are darker coloured
than others are and remain so even as adults. This would suggest that the dilution
of the melanin varies in this mutation and thus we get some birds that have less
dilution and are darker coloured. The unevenness of the melanin deposition
within the feathers can be clearly seen in the “Dark Factor’ bird pictured below.
Both of these birds were bred from the same parents.
I have noticed in this mutation that some of the ‘darker’ coloured hens look
almost identical to a normal grey. I owned one particular hen I purchased as a
split hen and after breeding some 20 chicks from her and her visual mate, never
got one normal grey chick. On closer examination her chest feathers were more
mottled than one would expect on a normal grey and this was the only visual
apparent difference. I still cannot say for certain that she was not a visual
‘suffused’.
Light Phase Whiteface Olive
Dark Phase Whiteface Olive
Heredity & Multi-mutations
The ‘Suffused’ mutation is another of the autosomal recessive mutations. That
means for a bird to be this mutation it must receive one gene from each parent.
Both hens and cockbirds can thus be split to Suffused.
Due to the good standard of the birds found of this mutation there does not seem
to be any negative results breeding visual to visual in the normal or whiteface
variety. I have yet to see a pastelface variety but I am sure they will not be far off.
This mutation has already been combined with cinnamon to produce a very pale
fawn coloured bird. I am not aware of any other multi-mutations at this stage but
am eager to see the pied and pastelface combinations.
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2010 PSOA State Bird Fair
Scott Morris © 2010
The 2010 Parrot Society of Australia State Bird Fair was held on Sunday the 28th
of March at the RNA Showgrounds in Brisbane. I attended to represent the
ANCS and the wonderful Cockatiel.
Without a Spectacular Petacular and also some restrictions on items able to be
offered for sale, we did not have a sales table this year. We attended as a way of
raising the profile of the club and also the Cockatiel as a bird for all ages and
breeder experience. I took along three of my own birds including one pet that
proved, as usual, to be very popular with the children and quite a few adults as
well.
This year the venue was changed and the entire event was under the one roof
making for a more concentrated audience. Whilst I think there were less vendors
than last year, their seemed to be more trade or club displays with the African
Lovebird and Foreign Parrot Society and the Qld Finch Society being just two of
the other clubs participating.
It was not quite as busy as 2009 and the new layout meant that the event started at
10am for all without the early opening of a trade/club area as previously.
There was a fairly constant flow of people throughout the day with many
interesting and inquisitive conversations had. It was most interesting to chat with
Mr Greg Paull whom is credited in ABKs’ A Guide To Cockatiels and Their
Mutations as Pet and Aviary Birds with playing a large role in development of
the Pastel Silver mutation within Australia in the late 1980’s.
Many people stopped to discuss their cockatiels, both pet and breeding as well as
their other birds and experiences. Many aviculturists revealed that cockatiels
held a firm place in their aviaries amongst their larger and/or more expensive
cousins. I hold great hope for Cockatiels and Aviculture in general by the
number of younger attendees. If they find the love of birds that many of us have,
then aviculture will survive.
As for the sale, I did get the opportunity to have a look around and see what was
on offer. I can tell you that there were quite a few cockatiels on sale as their
distinctive call was quite easily heard amongst the throng.
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On the whole, it was a good showing for the club with several membership
enquiries and a number of Breeders Lists given out to prospective buyers
(remember, you too could be on this list if you want to sell birds, just let us
know). It also was another opportunity to support our Sponsors within the avian
community with our banner and several leaflets endorsing them all.
Of course the one question I am always asked after such an event is “was it
worthwhile?” And the answer from me is still the same: if we manage to assist
one bird owner and help them become a better aviculturist and make their bird
happier and healthier, then it has been a success. It did only cost me a few nights
of organisation and one Sunday out of the year ☺
Footnote: The entire 2010 ANCS committee and members would like to send a
big thankyou to our current Secretary/Treasure Scott Morris, for taking the
time and effort to attend this function on behalf of our club. Events like these
are both fun and informative and we would like to encourage more members to
get involved in these functions, even if it is for only an hour on the day.
---ooo000ooo---
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ANCS AUTUMN TABLE SHOWS
2010
When: Saturday 17th April 2.00pm (Normal Face &
Pastel Face)
Saturday 22nd May 2.00pm (White Face)
Where:
Dutton Park State School
(NO SEED TO BE PUT IN SHOW CAGES.)
We are holding a table show and General Meeting on both Saturdays
instead of holding our normal Tuesday meetings.
Classes:
Normal Face
1
Normal
2
Pied (any colour)
3
Pearl (any colour)
4
Pearl Pied (any colour)
5
Solid Body (Cinnamon, Pastel Silver, Lutino, Olive, Platinum, etc)
Pastel Face
1
Normal
2
Pied (any colour)
3
Pearl (any colour)
4
Pearl Pied (any colour)
5
Solid Body (Cinnamon, Pastel Silver, Lutino, Olive, Platinum, etc)
White Face
1
Normal
2
Pied (any colour)
3
Pearl (any colour)
4
Pearl Pied (any colour)
5
Solid Body (Albino, Cinnamon, Pastel Silver, Olive, Platinum, etc)
NB Classes may be combined at judges discretion
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There will be prizes awarded and we are endeavouring to provide other
prizes/awards that will be given out at our AGM in December.
The judges decision is final and we request that you respect them and
those decisions.
Please ensure that your Cockatiel is in a Standard Show Cage with only
paper on the bottom.. Water containers are permitted after judging is
completed.
NO SEED TO BE PUT IN SHOW CAGES.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact any of the committee
members.
REMEMBER – NO TUESDAY NIGHT MEETING IN APRIL
OR MAY
JUDGING POINTS AND GUIDELINES
This point allocation as set out is merely a guide for selection of the better
bird(s). This guideline serves for both exhibitors, and judges. In an actual show,
although used as a guide, all birds will be judged by the comparison method.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Size
Substance
Balance of proportions
Wing carriage
Tail
Head
Colour & markings
Feet & legs
Condition
Deportment
Cage presentation
Total
15 points
12 points
10 points
10 points
5 points
8 points
10 points
5 points
15 points
5 points
5 points
100 points
Remember you have to be in it to win it!
Bring along a plate for afternoon tea and enjoy!
Good luck!
---ooo000ooo--20
GUIDE TO SHOWING
To prepare your cockatiels for the show bench you must start training them well
in advance of the show date especially young birds. With young birds start
training them as soon as they are capable of feeding themselves.
An ideal size for the training cage would be three times the size of the A.N.C.S.
show cage built so that slides can be placed as to make three cages when training
is in progress. Always use wire cage fronts not wire mesh as mesh will damage
their tails.
After a period of about two weeks in the training cage you can place one or two
into a show cage to see which of them will be suitable for the show. Also check
for broken tail and flight feathers, remove them so they will regrow in time for
the show.
Having selected the birds that you
intend to show now is the time to
work them so that they can show
themselves off to the judge to their
best advantage. For a bird to have
any hope of taking out the top prize
they must respond to the judging
stick . A bird that will not perch
cannot be judged properly. There
are different methods that you can
use to get the birds on to the perch
such as an egg carton turned upside
down on the floor of the cage, ping pong balls , marbles or a piece of cardboard
placed at an angle so as to force the bird to perch . You can also give them a light
spraying with warm water this will also help to tighten their feathers.
When training your birds use as many different judging sticks as you can one of
them may be similar to the judging stick that the judge has . Also get your show
team used to people and the way that you are going to transport them to the show.
I have mentioned spraying your birds to steady them down , you can give them a
light spraying every day up until three days before the show . This will give the
feathers time to settle in place.
There are many ways to train birds for the show bench but if you go along on
these lines and you exhibit birds that are as close to the standard that you can
possibly find you will be well in the running for the best of class, section, best
21
opposite sex or bird of the show . But never be discouraged if that bird you
thought would win was beaten . The next time he or she may be a winner, that
flight or tail feather that had not reached its full length will be just right. A lot of
birds do not stand a chance of winning not because it is not up to the rest of the
field or out of feather. So where does the fault lie? So please do not go to your
birds on the day of the show and catch the number of birds that you have show
cages for.
One last thing , try and have your birds benched as early as possible . If you
arrive with your team five minutes before judging starts your bird or birds could
be the first class to be judged and they will have no time to settle down.
To all the members who exhibit there birds sit back and enjoy the shows and have
fun , remember winning is only an extra bonus to your hobby.
Terry Casey
P.S. Remember make sure your show cages are in top condition.
Reprinted from ANCS journal Volume 8 Issue 1 Jan/Feb 1997
---ooo000ooo---
The NEW Sales Table explained!!
We have organised access to the African Lovebird and Foreign Parrot Society
Sales Table for members of the ANCS. They have an extensive range of avian
products at very competitive prices. Included in this Journal is their current listing
of most of the products that will appeal to bird owners and breeders.
Unfortunately the ANCS has not been able to sustain our own sales table as
existed in the past and this solution has been put forward to benefit both clubs and
all members by giving us access to less expensive, bird specific products and also
assisting the ALFPS in adding to their sales and stock turnover.
The only “issue” is that they will not be able to attend our meetings. Access to
the products will be at their General Meetings, via our Secretary or via their stalls
at several weekend markets held in South Western Brisbane.
For more information, please contact Scott, the ANCS Secretary, on 3342 3555 or
via email at secretary@cockatielsociety.org.au
SEE PRICE LIST ON PAGE 25 OF THIS JOURNAL!!!
---ooo000ooo--22
CAGE TERRITORIALITY
Why It Develops & What To Do About It
Liz Wilson
Parrot Behavior Consultant
John has an adolescent parrot that he loves dearly, but a problem has been
developing recently that he doesn't understand at all. When his bird is away from
its cage it's a sweetheart, but near its cage, it turns into a monster -- lunging and
biting when John or his wife reach for it. At first it only did this when it was on
top of the cage, but now the behavior has expanded to the point that neither John
or his wife can safely reach into the cage to feed and clean. The bird is also
starting to get aggressive when it is playing on its jungle gym. John hasn't the
foggiest idea why this is happening.
Guarding One's Turf
This behavior is called cage territoriality or cage dominance, and like many
(most?) of the behaviors we see in captive parrots, it has a foundation in instinct.
In the wild, a parrot must protect its territory from invasion not only by predators
but also other parrots. Dr. Charles Munn, in his National Geographic article on
macaws in the Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged Rainbows", Jan. 94),
comments that "a contributing factor in the macaws' low reproduction rate [in the
wild] is an acute housing shortage." An unprotected nest is often subject to a
hostile takeover by another pair of parrots eager to start a family. So guarding
one's territory is necessary to successfully raise a family and therefore fulfill the
Prime Directive of propagating one's own species. John's parrot didn't exhibit this
behavior before, because it was just a baby.
In working with clients, I like to use as an example the behavior of a pair of
mockingbirds who made it on the news several times a couple of years ago. (It
must have been a slow news week.) These birds had built a nest in a parking
garage and they were dive bombing any humans who dared try to retrieve their
cars. After describing the situation, I then point out just how small a mockingbird
actually is [about 10" from beak to tail] compared to the size of a human. To say
the least, this is a formidable instinctive drive!
Aberrant Behavior
In captivity we often see territorial behaviors that have become excessive, with
the bird driving off not just strangers but other members of the household (other
flock members) and even the person with whom the parrot is most bonded -- the
equivalent of the bird driving its own mate away from the nest. Obviously, this is
23
a serious behavior problem, which will seriously threaten the animal’s pet
potential if allowed to go unchecked. It is also extremely common.
Some people feel that a pet parrot should be allowed this territorial behavior -that its cage is its very own special place and it should be allowed to do as it
pleases within that area. I emphatically do not agree.
Just as a human child should be allowed privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot
should be allowed to have its moods -- and sometimes it will simply not be in the
mood to interact with its human – it is playing happily by itself, it for example, or
pondering a particularly tough concept of astral physics. An experienced parrot
owner knows when their bird is not in the mood by simply watching its body
language, and he/ she respects the bird's privacy and does not approach during
these times.
However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't feel it is acceptable for a small child to
be allowed to ban parents from his/her room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should
be allowed to refuse their human flock entry into its "room" -- which is what
John's parrot is doing.
If a person has a pair of breeding birds, that is a different story -- I would liken
that to having a grown child visiting his parents with his wife -- at which point
the rules change. In that case, I think the young adult's room should be private
with the parents entering by invitation only.
Establishing Nurturing Dominance
A pet parrot that is excessively territorial is a bird who has been allowed to
believe it outranks the humans in its flock, and is therefore, ordering these
humans around. To get this little tyrant under control, the humans must establish
a relationship of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la Sally Blanchard) by
teaching the bird the commands of "up" and "down" to put controls on the bird's
behavior. This simple and incredibly effective training technique was explained
in detail in a separate article ("Nurturing Dominance: What It Is and How To
Establish It").
As I explained in that article, the bird is removed from its cage and control is
taught in daily training sessions that take place on a neutral perch in a neutral
territory -- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair) and room (i.e. a guest room or
bath) that the bird does not consider to be its own turf. (Trying to establish
controls over a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or even within sight of its cage
is an exercise in futility and a great way to get bitten.)
Once the bird is responding to the human's order by stepping onto his/her
hand every time the person says Up and off the hand onto the
perch every time with a Down, then the human can start moving the training
perch out of the neutral area and into the area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to
24
move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few inches at a time -- and then work
again on the commands, making sure the bird follows them to the letter. To
maintain consistency from then on, the person will ALWAYS use these
commands whenever and wherever he/she is handling the bird.
Back on the Bird's Turf.....
Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training sessions often become more difficult,
but the person should not lose heart.
With patience and consistency (and a little time), the bird will again respond to
the commands that it followed beautifully when out of sight of its territory. Under
NO circumstance should the human lose his/her temper (tempting though it may
be at times), since that usually provides the drama that parrots love -- few things
tickle them more than making their pet person mad enough to yell. After all, what
a wonderful game! (I discussed the Drama Reward in another article.)
When the teacher and the pupil have at last worked their way back to the cage,
the human should put the bird onto his perch in the cage with the Down
command, then immediately pick him up again with the Up command. Doing this
several times in a row will teach the bird that these commands work just as well
inside the cage as out. This process should also be repeated on the cage top, as
well as on and around any other place where the parrot hangs out.
New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage
From that point on, whenever the bird wants to be let out of its cage, it must step
onto the person's hand when the human says Up. If it refuses, then it is not
allowed out of the cage until it changes its mind and follows the command. Under
no circumstance should the person simply open the cage door and walk away -this will convince the parrot it is again in control of its life and the humans in its
flock.
Once the bird has come out of the cage with the proper commands, if the human
wishes, the parrot can be placed on top with the Down so it can go in and out at
will. At the end of the day, the bird should be returned to his cage with a Down.
Altitude vs. Attitude
Always keep in mind that height is correlated directly with dominance in the
mind of the companion parrot -- so a bird above eye level generally considers
itself higher on the pecking order. This height significance must be considered
when choosing the training perch, as well as with perch placement in a parrot’s
cage. Aggressive birds should not be allowed to perch higher than the person’s
chest level. The top of the bird's cage may not be a good place for the parrot to
25
play if it starts getting delusions of superiority. A separate play area set on a low
table usually solves this problem.
Even after the parrot is behaving itself around the cage (and everywhere else), the
human should keep up training sessions every week or so, just to remind the bird
that the rules are still in force. It is also critical that any other humans handling
the bird should use the same commands in exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS
using the Up to get the bird on his/her hand, and off the hand with a Down.
Otherwise, the bird will become confused -- just as a human child does when two
parents enforce different rules.
Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild,
there appears to be a constant push-pull going on within the flock, with
challenges happening constantly. So the human should not be surprised when a
previously well behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command -- it is just checking
to see if the human is really in control. By insisting the command be followed, the
human simply reaffirms that.
So by following these easy training techniques and handling their parrot in a firm,
loving and consistent manner, John and his wife can get control of their
headstrong bundle of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving relationship they
used to enjoy.
This article was originally published in CAGED BIRD HOBBYIST, Vol. 2, No. 5.
Liz Wilson, Certified Veterinary Technician, has been assisting pet bird owners
with parrot behavior problems for over a decade through lectures, phone
consultations, and house calls in the Greater Philadelphia area
Website: http://www.upatsix.com/liz
Copyright Elizabeth H. Wilson, April, 1998.
All rights reserved. Parts or whole may be reprinted, but not distributed without express written permission of
the author.
---ooo000ooo--Tip of the Journal
Remove all calcium supplements when treating your birds for psittacosis, a type
of bacteria found in the droppings of birds. It has the ability to reduce the
effectiveness of the medication. Also, use ceramic or plastic containers rather
than metal for the same reason.
---ooo000ooo--26
AVIAN HEALTH PRODUCTS
AVIAN VITALIZER
A complete vitamin, mineral and amino acid
additive for your bird’s seed, soaked seed or
fruit and vegies.
AVIAN VITA BOOST
A water soluble multi-vitamin supplement to
aid the reproductive performance of your birds.
AVIAN HI-PRO
SOFT FOOD
Contains animal as well as vegetable proteins
and is recommended to improve reproductive
performance and fledgling growth.
AVIAN
SUPERBLOOM
A complete vitamin, mineral and amino acid
additive for your bird’s drinking water.
PROBIOTICS
A natural product containing a blend (7-9 strains)
of millions of "live" beneficial gut bacteria.
These benefit your bird by improving the
intestinal microbial balance, improving disease
resistance.
10% discount given on consultations to ANCS members!
Products also available from the A.N.C.S. Sales Table
27
Stainless Steel Dishes
7 inch ............................. $14.00
5 inch ............................... $9.00
4 inch ............................... $8.00
3 inch ............................... $6.00
2.5 inch ............................ $3.50
Seed
Large Parrot .....1kg ......... $2.00
......................... 2kg ......... $3.50
Small Parrot .....1kg ......... $2.00
..........................2kg ......... $3.50
Budgie .............1kg ......... $2.00
..........................2kg ......... $3.50
Finch.................1kg ......... $2.00
..........................2kg ......... $3.50
Canary .............1kg ......... $2.50
..........................2kg ......... $4.40
Flat Dishes
8 inch ............................... $8.50
6 inch ............................... $3.00
Spring Clips ...................... $3.50
Perch holders (pair) …...... $3.00
Mouse Traps ................... $12.00
Cage Fronts 6inch ............ $7.00
Plastic D Cups x 2 ............ $2.00
Plastic Feeders .................. $3.00
Fruit Sticks ....................... $4.00
Calcium Blocks ................ $1.50
Avitrol Plus ........................ $9.80
Disinfectant........................ $8.50
Kitty Litter 1kg.................. $2.00
Silver Sand 1kg.................. $2.50
Hi Pro Soft food Pellets
...........................1kg ......... $2.50
Hi Pro Mash ......1kg ......... $2.50
...........................2kg ......... $4.50
Egg & Biscuit ...1kg ......... $6.50
Lorry Dry ..........1kg ......... $7.50
Lorry Wet ..........1kg ......... $9.00
Millet Spray ......1kg ......... $7.00
Grit.....................1kg ......... $1.40
Vitamin Powder. 200gr ..... $4.00
Insect Powder….500gr ..... $7.00
Toys assorted …...$7.00 - $25.00
Bird Seeds
Small ................................. $8.00
Medium ........................... $10.00
Large ............................... $12.00
Ex/Large ......................... $14.00
Cages ................small ..... $15.00
Opens at top for perch
400 L x 400 D x 600 H ... $48.00
600 L x 400 D x 400 H ... $32.00
Large suitable for Finches &
Parrots
760 L x 450 D x 900 H .... $78.00
Large Parrots opens at top
760 L x 460 D x 8120 H… $78.00
Stands for large cages ...... $45.00
Cage Seed Catchers
Small ................................. $8.00
Medium ........................... $12.00
Large ............................... $16.00
Ex/Large ......................... $25.00
Email secretary@cockatielsociety.org.au to place your order!
28
Hi to one and all,
Once again there seems to be a lack of birds for sale being submitted by our
members. I guess people are still getting organised and waiting for last years
spring babies to reach maturity to determine what to keep. So far this year it seems
to be hens that are in high demand! All those poor lonely males are looking for
company so if you do have birds you want to sell it is imperative you let us know
so we can keep purchasers happy. If we don’t have the goods they will go
elsewhere and potential sales will be lost. Please contact me if you have any birds
for sale or if you are looking to purchase new additions for your aviaries.
Regards
Geoff Watts
E-mail: birdsteward@cockatielsociety.org.au
Ph- (07) 3269 9590
Members need to renew entries for each subsequent editions of the club journal.
Where possible, please advise the age and sex of birds listed. Details provided in
ads are printed as they are submitted
Legend: - h/r = hand-reared.
c= cock. h = hen. p/r = parent reared.
mo = months old. nrm = normal. u/s = unsexed juv = juvenile
s/s = surgically sexed. ? / = possibly split to
Cut-off for the next magazine 23rd May 2010
Bank Details for Direct Deposit
The details below are for paying of member fees directly into the club account:
Bank:
Account name:
BSB :
Account No:
Westpac
The Australian National Cockatiel Society Inc
034-117
11-3450
When depositing funds please ensure you add details of your name and reason for
payment. Please email confirmation of payment to
secretary@cockatielsociety.org.au
29
Cockatiels:
Light Pied Cinnamon Hen (approx 2 years old) missing one toe
Whiteface Cock (16 month old)
Other Birds:
UK Pied Red Rump Cock 4 years old – proven breeder, lost his mate
Green Cheek Conure – Sex unknown, Split Cinnamon if cock bird (6 months old)
Green Cheek Conure Yellowsided – sex unknown (6 months old)
Bonded Pair Lutino Indian Ringnecks – been together 12 months but not allowed
to breed. (Approx 5 years old)
Contact – Scott Morris Ph 07 3342 3555 after hours or leave a message
Cockatiels:
Grey split Spangle cocks and hens.
Platinum split whiteface and pied cocks 6 months old
Cockatiels Wanted:
Heavy Pied or Whiteface Heavy Pied Hens 6 – 18 months old. No cinnamon please
Contact: Jo-Anne Watts Ph 07 3269 9590
jo-annewatts@optusnet.com.au
Cockatiels:
Pastelface pied cocks adult and juvenile
Pastelface pearl pied and Pastelface pearl split pied juvenile hens
Cinnamon pearl and Cinnamon lutino pearl juvenile hens
Cinnamon split pied juvenile cock
Normal/Olive juvenile cocks
Olive and Whiteface Olive juveniles
Wanted
Large flight aviaries, preferably suspended.
Contact - David Heyden Ph 07 07 3371 3239
david.heyden@bigpond.com
30
Aviaries:
Professionally built Aviary with 14 suspended breeding cubicles and 2 holding
aviaries. All in very good condition
Features: Walk through between breeding cubicles (bird safe)
Breeding loft
External nest boxes
Cubicles each D 900mm x W780mm x H920mm,
plus loft W780mm x D450mm x H270mm
Holding aviaries each with door from enclosed walkway (bird safe)
Aviaries have full length lofts L2700mm x D900mm x H270mm
Aviaries each L2700mm x D1440mm x H1850 mm
Automatic waterer and shower system and power inlet / outlet
Purchaser to dismantle and remove:
1 off roof
2 off holding sections
2 x 3 cubicle breeding sections
2 x 4 cubicle breeding sections
Materials alone cost $6500 before construction Asking $5000
Contact - Eileen Wood Ph 07 32612061
---ooo000ooo---
31
What’s on in Aviculture
This page will now be a regular feature in our journal and will list other clubs sales
and events that are coming up in the next few months. All clubs are welcome to
submit their events for inclusion in this list.
Events marked with a * are ones the ANCS will be attending as a club
April 24th
Downs Bird Breeders Assoc Inc.
Annual Bird Auction
Centenary Heights High School Toowoomba
Contact: Des English (07)4630-4469
May 1st
Beenleigh Bird Breeders Bird Sale.
Community Centre Hall, Fryar Rd, Eagleby.
Contact: 07 3807 5567 or 0407 380 755 or
beenleighbirdbreedersassoc@hotmail.com
May 15th
Downs Bird Breeders Assoc Inc.
Annual Bird Sale
Centenary Heights High School Toowoomba
Contact: Des English (07)4630-4469
June (tba)
Festival of Feathers*
Ipswich Showgrounds,
Warwick Road, Ipswich, Qld
Contact: Terry White 3814 3791
November (tba) Beaudesert Parrot & Finch Association
Bird Sale.
Beaudesert Showgrounds.
Contact: (07) 3805 8435 or 0422 294 259
For clubs wanting to add their events to this page please contact
the editor Jo-Anne on 07 32699590
or email details to webmaster@cockatielsociety.org.au
32
33
AVIAN VET LISTING
QUEENSLAND
Dr R. Doneley BVSc FACVSc
194 West St, Toowoomba QLD 4350
Phone (07) 4636 2027
Dr A. Gallagher BVSc (Hons) MACVSc
248 Hamilton Rd, Chermside QLD 4032
Phone (07) 3359 2233
Dr P.J.S. Gardiner BVSc MACVSc
71 Princess St, Bundaberg QLD 4670
Phone (07) 4153 1399
Dr Edward Layt BVSc MACVSc
224 Wishart Rd, Wishart QLD 4122
Phone (07) 3343 6399
Dr Peter Wilson BVSc MACVSc
Gold Coast QLD 4223
Phone (07) 5533 0381
Dr Deborah Monks BVSc (Hons) FACVSc
Cnr Kessels Rd & Springfield St, Macgregor QLD
Phone (07) 3420 6773
Dr Ron Woodhead BVSc
333 Waterworks Rd, Ashgrove QLD 4060
Phone (07) 3366 1888
Dr Terry Martin BVSc
128 Station Road, Sunnybank, 4109
Phone: (07)3344 6689
NEW SOUTH WALES
Dr Doug Black BVSc (Hons) MACVSc
61 Meninya St, Moama NSW 2731
Phone (03) 5480 6071
Dr M. Cannon BVSc MACVSc
461 Crown St, West Wollongong NSW 2500
Phone (02) 4229 8888
Dr J. Gill BVSc MVM MACVSc
Shop 6, Cnr Harden St & Avoca Rd
Canley Heights NSW 2166
Phone (02) 9604 9792
Dr Alex Rosenwax BVSc (Hons) MACVSc
Shop 3, Block D, 1 Hunter St
Waterloo NSW 2017
Phone (02) 9319 6111
Dr R. Marshall BVSc MACVSc
772 Pennant Hills Rd, Carlingford NSW 2118
Phone (02) 9871 7113
Dr RA Perry BVSc (Hons) FACVSc
195 Parramatta Rd, Homebush NSW 2140
Phone (02) 9746 7615
Dr Karen Dobson BVSc MACVSc
1 Station St, Emu Plains NSW 2750
Phone (02) 4735 3268
Dr Mark Simpson BVSc MACVSc
67 Carrington St, West Wallsend NSW 2286
Phone (02) 4955 1833
Dr Anne Fowler BSc (Vet) BVSc MACVSc
415 Weronbi Rd, Camden NSW 2570
Phone (02) 9351 1798
Dr David Phalen DVM, PhD Dipl.ABVP
415 Weronbi Rd, Camden NSW 2570
Phone (02) 9351 1798
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Dr Ian Hough BVSc BVMS
22A Chasewater St, Lower Mitcham SA 5062
Phone (08) 8277 7788
Dr D J Needham BVSc DDA
294 Greenhill Rd, Glenside SA 5065
Phone (08) 8379 0222
34
VICTORIA
Dr P. Macwhirter BVSc (Hons) FACVSc
Dr P. Sacks BSc BVSc (Hons) MACVSc
128 Highbury Rd, Burwood VIC 3125
Phone (03) 9808 9011
Dr Colin Walker BSc BVSc MRCVSc MACVSc
11 Henry Rd, Wantirna South VIC 3152
Phone (03) 9800 5311
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Dr Ray Butler BVSc MACVSc
789 Canning Hwy, Applecross WA 6153
Phone (08) 9364 2288
Dr Tim Oldfield BVSc MACVSc
791 Welshpool Rd, Wattle Grove WA 6107
Phone (08) 9453 6655
ACT
TASMANIA
Dr Sandy Hume BVSc MVSc MACVSc
Dr James M Harris BSc DVM
47 Jerrabomberra Ave, Narrabundah ACT 2604 2 Russell Crescent, Sandy Bay TAS 7005
Phone (02) 6295 0770
Phone (03) 6224 4244
Freecall: 1800 700 108
Ph: (02) 6933 0400
Allora Grain & Milling
Ph: 07 3849 6397
Ph: 07 4666 3293
Phone 07 3200 1690
Phone 07 3200 7351
35
MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION
FAMILY
$30.00 PER YEAR
PENSIONER / STUDENT $24.50 PER YEAR
OVERSEAS
$42.00 (AUST $) PER YEAR
Validation for Pensioner / Student is required.
secretary@cockatielsociety.org.au
or Ph 07 33423555
Do not send cash through the post. Cheques or money orders should be made
payable to The Australian National Cockatiel Society Inc.
Electronic payment now available see page 26
Application forms are now available on our web site.
Please include your Name, Address, Month of Birth and Phone Number.
Also, which membership category you wish to join and send
with your cheque or money order to...
THE SECRETARY
A.N.C.S.
P.O. BOX 1248
FORTITUDE VALLEY
QLD 4006
The articles and information presented within this journal are the
opinions of the Authors and not necessarily those of the Australian
National Cockatiel Society, its' Committee Members, or Editor. The
Editor reserves the right to exercise normal editorial responsibility in
regard to printing or not printing material submitted for publication.
Material that is defamatory will not be printed. Advertisements in this
journal may not necessarily carry any endorsement by the A.N.C.S.
Articles marked  copyright remain with the author and cannot be
reprinted without their permission. Permission may be granted to
clubs for the reprinting of other articles, provided permission is
obtained from the A.N.C.S. and, both the author and the source are
acknowledged.
36