A walk through the Dunnottar woods. By George and Eva Swapp.
Use this as a guide in a walk in Dunnottar woods.
Enter the woods between Nos. 52 and 53 Carron gardens, the small
housing development on the opposite side of low wood road from the
Green Footbridge.
The path goes uphill for 50 yards then bears left along an easier slope,
levelling off into a fine avenue of beech and Sycamore, interspersed with
a few Oak, Poplar, Birch, Scots pine and larch. The Glasslaw burn is
below, to the left and the elongated field knows as the chapel park is to
the right. The chapel park is thought to take its name from the now
vanished chapel of St. Ninian which preceded the Dunnottar castle
chapel. (1276)
After one third of a mile the path joins the farm track which serves the
chapel Park field. About 30 years along this track turn left onto the level
path through the young Beech and Ash trees, and ahead you will discern
an impressive wall. This is the wall of the gardens which served
Dunnottar house, and was built 1809/10. The 11-foot high retaining wall
of stone blocks is surmounted by a 15-foot brick wall topped with coping
stones. The wall was the subject of a lengthy legal action.
Our path now runs along a pleasant level bank between the wall and a
stand of beech trees. Where the path and the wall begin to curve to the
right, look down the slope to the left and towards the Glasslaw burn and
you will see the quaint little brick Shell Hoosie with its rounded beehivelike appearance. No relic of St Ninian’s time, this little grotto may have
been inspired by the lady Kennedy of Dunnottar House in the early
nineteenth century for amusement for her many children. Thanks to the
woodland association and the lottery funding the brickwork and seashells
were restored in 1999 by the Diana Reynells’s team. There is a hook in
the ceiling, associated it is said with some dark episode in the past.
Our route continues along the path between the wall and the Glasslaw
burn across the vehicular road, and into the southern half of the woods.
To the right the ground rises steeply to Gallowhill, and the Birch trees
with a stand of confer down to the left near the burn. Notice also the
large chestnut and W, and the Wych-elm, and the burn. Notice also the
large Chestnut and Wych elm, and the holly and overgrown shrubs, all
relics of Dunnottar house estate days. Beside the Chestnut tree is a
footbridge which provides an alternative route to Perwinkle den and the
Lady Kennedys bath, but our route keeps to the main path with the burn
on the left. Seeds from the stand of ash here have been used to restock
other woods. Notice also the damage rabbits have inflicted on some of
the young beech; if the bark is eaten all the way round the tree dies.
Daffodils and bluebells make a pretty picture here in the spring.
As you pass the clump of Conifers on the right, you will see ahead the
Glasslaw burn as it descends some small waterfalls and rapids. This two
hundred yard long gorge runs through a weakness in the pudding-stone
rock known as Perwinkle den. Half-way along is the footbridge
constructed by Sam Jolly and his team in 1999 for the woodland
Association. It is on the site of an earlier bridge, and provides an
excellent view of the scenic rapids below.
The lesser periwinkle (Vincer Minor), which gives the gorge its name,
covers part of the rock-face and ground on the far side of the burn and,
though probably introduced when the grounds were laid out in the early
nineteenth century, has survived the vicissitudes of the woods in the mid
twentieth century, has survived the vicissitudes of the woods in the mid
twentieth century. Ivy (Hedera Helix) covers some other rock-faces in
the den.
The den takes us to Lady Kennedy’s bath, an oval shaped structure, with
a diversionary channel. Though now missing, the pool would have had
sluices to control the water. Like the shell house it seems probable that
the bath was built primarily for the children’s enjoyment. However Lady
Kennedy also swam here each summer, though not au naturelle, as once
rumoured. As with the shell house, the bath was lost sight of when
surrounded by the saplings in the sixties, and became dilapidated. It has
since been partially renovated.
The small dry cutting a few yards beyond the bath provides another hint
of the deep beds of the pudding-stone or conglomerate hereabouts. You
may continue along the path to Glasslaw Bridge and the car-park but for
ease giving directions, I will turn off to the right a few yards uphill from
the bath, and down the track with the white-topped posts.
Despite the cushion effect of conifers, larch and birch, the tranquillity of
the woods here is eroded by the noise of the A90 traffic. However, the
by-pass has removed most of the heavy Lorries which used to grind
noisily up the Laurenckirk road, shattering the serenity of the woods.
A short distance down the path you will see the renovated Dunnottar
House stable and outbuildings to the left. Known as “the Square” the
main block contained a number of homes until the early sixties, and now
does so again. (1998)
Another 20 yards along the old driveway brings you to a small field on
the left, with a large elm tree straight ahead. The near corner of this
field is flat, and that is where Dunnottar House stood until razed to the
ground about 1960. No trace of the house remains, but with the Garden
Walls, The Square, Lady Kennedys bath, shell house, ice house and older
trees and shrubs, there is plenty to remind us that it did exist, for 150
years or so. Indeed, on your right is an overgrown yew: once a trimmed
bush in front of the house.
Follow the drive along the edge of the small field until 50 yards short of
the red roofed house, then right for 30 yards short of the red roofed
house, then right for 30 yards, and right again along a level curving track
between the vehicular road and Gallowhill. Just before the track reaches
the road, there is a path to the right that provides an easy ascent of the
Hill.
The small mound on top of Gallow is probably an early bronze-age cairn,
from 2000Bc or earlier. It is scheduled as an ancient monument by
Historic Scotland. Later, from about 1600, it was a place for execution
for local criminal. Several of the criminal trials concerned are recorded
in the black book of Kincardine; none sadder than that of Agnes Moffat
who’s fugitive husband left her to carry the can for come stolen sheep.
She was hanged on the 3rd of April, and buried at the foot of Gallows.
Suspected witches met their fate in the nearby Carron pool.
A few yards behind Gallowhill a grill covers the entrance to the ice house
for Dunnottar House, where perishable food such as game was kept. The
Association excavated it in 2001, and paved the fenced that surrounds.
Retracing One’s steps to the main path, cross the road onto the track
which goes between the Quarry (left) and Garden Wall (right). 100 yards
along take a few steps to the right to see a small ruin, possible a remnant
of the hamlet of Kirkside of Dunnottar, which was supposedly removed to
make room for the gardens.
Back on the track continue until 30 yards from the entrance to the field
(Chapel Park) and turn left onto the path which runs parallel to the end of
the field, with the road and Carron burn far below on the left.
Beech trees continue to predominate, though there are some standards
of Conifers and Ash, and a scattering of Larch, Sycamore and Poplar to
give variety. After following the edge of the chapel park for about a
third of a mile on fairly terrain, the path winds gently downhill to reach
the low Wood road near the Red and Green Footbridges.
This walk is two miles, and should take an hour, depending on stops at the
features mentioned. Using the map, you may vary the above walk; eg
taking in Dunnottar Churchyard, where there is an information board.
We hope you have enjoyed your walk through the woods.