1
The Elusive Beast:
Ice Climbing in Washington State
By
Jason D. Martin
(702)262-0058 or (206)5271741
Email: j_dougie@yahoo.com
2103 N. 62nd
Seattle, WA 98103
2
The Elusive Beast:
Ice Climbing
In
Washington State
Table of Contents:
Introduction
Mt. Baker
Ski Area
Table Mountain
Highway 20
Mazama
North Eastern Washington
Mountain Loop Highway
Index
Stevens Pass
Leavenworth
Palisades
Lake Lenore/Soap Lake
Moses Coulee
Banks Lake
Snoqualmie Pass
Ellensburg
Vantage
Yakima
Southern Cascades
White Pass
Mt. Rainer National Park
Bluewood
Bibliography
3
An introduction to the draft you are about to Read:
What you have before you is half a guidebook. Think of it more as the notes that
will eventually become a real guidebook. There are holes all over the place within this
work. Part of the reason I am sending it out is for you to help me fill these holes. If you
have information concerning the spots where beta is sketchy, please contact me at:
j_dougie@yahoo.com. If you know of places that I’ve missed, please let me know.
Now, why else am I releasing this info ahead of time?
As I continued to develop this work and to see people struggling on internet pages
with the locations of climbs, I became guilty. Yep, that’s what happens when your
parents put you through eleven years of Catholic School. So as a result, I am offering
this information to you the climbing community. I hope it will help in your quest to find
climbable ice.
Introduction
Upon beginning the compilation of this book I was absolutely lost. There is
actually a great deal of ice in Washington State, but very little information available as to
where things are and how to get to them. Because nothing of the sort existed, I decided
to do my best to create a comprehensive guide of ice climbing in Washington State. By
no means is this book complete. There is a long way to go and any beta that people can
provide will be helpful in the next edition.
However, what we do have here is a good start. In this book you will find
information on many waterfall climbing routes as well as a few notable alpine ice routes.
Included is comprehensive information on climbs that are not listed in other popular
guide books of the area. We mention climbs that can be found in other books, but don’t
get too lengthy in our exploration of that material. And lastly we include information
about possible ice climbs that may or may not have yet been completed.
Ice climbing in Washington State is indeed an elusive beast. By creating this
guide we hope to help climbers capture and climb that beast.
RATINGS:
Rating a frozen waterfall is a difficult thing to do in a guide-book. The problem is
that routes go through fazes. For example Pan Dome Falls at Mt. Baker Ski area is
generally considered to be a WI 3+. However, to get to that rating which was established
when the falls were in good condition, the route must go through a series of stages. Early
in the season it might be a WI 5, then as it gets colder and there is a bit of freeze/thaw the
difficulty rating will drop to a WI 4, then finally to a WI 3+. Be aware of this system of
stages before getting on something that is too difficult.
In this guide book one can expect the ratings to reflect the following:
WI 1: An easy ice slope that doesn’t exceed sixty degrees.
WI 2: Relatively easy ice with good protection. The route is generally sustained
in the sixty to seventy degree range. There may be a few more technical
moves.
WI 3: These routes tend to be sustained up to eighty degrees. Protection is
4
usually not too bad and there are generally decent rests. Be aware that
there may be short sections of vertical ice.
WI 4: At this grade, one can expect sustained seventy-five to eighty-five degree
climbing. More often than not the pro is not as good as that of the lower
grades, it’s usually there, but may be awkward or thin. This is usually
where the climbing really starts to become a bit challenging.
WI 5: These climbs require commitment and skill, they are the 5.11s of the ice
climbing world. Often the ice is not very good and protection is hard to
find. Usually these routes are vertical and strenuous.
WI 6: These routes tend to be extremely technical climbs with vertical and even
overhung ice. The protection is difficult to find and perhaps even more
difficult to place. There are usually few rests and thin, often questionable
ice.
Beyond the Water Ice ratings listed above, this guide will use the Yosemite
Decimal System to indicate rock grades when needed. In some cases, aid climbing
grades will also be indicated on some of the more extreme routes.
Within the context of this guide there are a few interesting alpine ice routes that
will be mentioned. With them, the alpine grade system will also be indicated. The Alpine
Grade system indicates the overall grade, difficulty and time required to complete a route.
Roman Numerals I-VI suggest these. Obviously, the lower the number the shorter the
time the route takes. Once one reaches grades IV-VI it becomes difficult for any but the
most proficient climbers to complete the route in a single day.
On some of the more dubious climbs, an “R” or an “X” might be indicated. Here
“R” suggests that one may have some long run-outs and could be seriously injured or
killed in the event of a fall. “X” indicates a likelihood of death should a climber come off
on lead.
AVALANCHE DANGER:
In this guide you will find avalanche danger broken into three categories. They
are as follows:
Minimal:
This means that there is little to no avalanche danger on the
approach or above these types of climbs.
Moderate:
There is avalanche danger on either the approach or above these
routes. Be wary and take the appropriate precautions.
Serious:
Don’t do this climb unless the snow conditions are solid. Turn
back at the first sign of avalanche danger. People have been killed
approaching some of the routes that are listed as serious in
this guide.
Though a route may be in the “Minimal” category, that doesn’t mean that it is
completely safe. There still may be a bit of avalanche potential. One should always
assess the situation before approaching a climb on dangerous slopes or climbing a route
that may have avalanche potential above.
ICE CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS:
5
An extremely strong climber has been quoted as saying that the Pacific Northwest
has a higher ice climbing injury rate than any other place because of our conditions. On a
day where people in Banff would stay home and watch TV, people in Washington will go
climbing. This is partly because of the fact that in Banff they know that the conditions
and the ice will eventually get better. In Washington that is not always the case.
We drive for three or four hours to find that the route we wanted to do is in semidecent shape. We decide to do it anyway. It’s always better to cut the loss and look
around for something in better shape to do. A three-hour drive that was for nothing is
always better than a three-hour drive that kills your partner and puts you in a wheelchair.
Ice Climbing is a dangerous sport. You should do everything in your power to
be sure that you have received the appropriate training to attack these climbs. Beyond the
training one must use common sense. Wear a helmet. (I’d be dead were I not wearing a
helmet on Shannon Falls in Squamish when a block sheered off above and hit our party.)
Pay attention to avalanche conditions. And lastly, listen to your gut. If you don’t feel
comfortable, don’t do it. Arrogance will get you killed.
WEATHER PATTERNS AND COMMON SENSE:
A good way to judge whether or not a route is in is to pay attention to the weather
in your hometown. If it’s been in the upper fifties in Seattle for the last couple of weeks,
one can usually assume that all but the highest routes are NOT in shape. However, if it’s
been freezing in Seattle for two weeks or perhaps has been tipping the scales at the upper
thirties, it might be a good time to go over to Eastern Washington to see what’s in.
Ice located near Mt. Baker or near Leavenworth tends to hang around a bit longer.
Ice near Banks Lake or Vantage is a more difficult proposition. Pay very close attention
to the conditions before spending hours upon hours driving to some location that has had
weather in the forties for the last three weeks.
We as an ice climbing community have a wonderful resource in the Internet.
After you go out climbing log on to Rock and Ice Online’s Ice Conditions page or onto
the Cascade Climbers page. Publish what you found when you were climbing on these
pages. Before you go out climbing, see what other people have found. Use this tool. It
is the only way that you’ll be able to tick any of the more elusive climbs in this state.
Throughout this guide, it will be indicated if a route tends to have a season that is
a bit longer or if a route tends to come in early.
EMERGENCY:
In case of emergency, call 911.
NEW ROUTE INFORMATION:
Please send any information about new routes or routes that you know about that
are not listed via e-mail to the following address: j_dougie@yahoo.com
Mt. Baker
MT. BAKER SKI AREA:
6
There is a great deal of false security in climbing at a ski area. Though it would
be easier to get an injured person out, don’t take unnecessary risks. I have personally
heard more ice climbing horror stories about Pan Dome Falls than any other ice route in
Washington.
To approach the ski area, drive the Mount Baker Highway (WA 542) from
Bellingham East to the Ski Area. From Bellingham, the drive will take about an hour and
a half.
Pan Dome Falls – WI 3+
Length: 160 Feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Park in the upper parking lot. Follow the Austin Pass Road until able
to cut across slopes toward the climb. The approach takes about ten minutes.
Route: Follow the low angled ice in the center of the falls up to the steep pillar
above. Be aware that this upper portion is steep and sustained at about eighty
degrees. Often the upper section is in solid WI 4 conditions. One may walk
around to the left in order to set up a toprope. Be careful as you approach the top
of the falls as it is steep and slippery.
Descent: Rappel the Route

To the right of Pan Dome there are some interesting climbs. There is generally a
short steep pillar just right of the falls that goes at about WI 4 and usually two lower
angled routes, often covered by snow, that go at WI 2.
TABLE MOUNTAIN:
Death Picnic – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger: Serious
First Ascent: Mark Houston and Alan Kerney, December 1986
Approach:
Route: (1987 American Alpine Journal Pg. 166)
Descent: Rappel the Route



Glacier Creek Road just beyond the town of Glacier has seen reports of ice.
On the Heliotrope Ridge Trail that one uses to access Mt. Baker, there is a short but
interesting fall high on the trail. The approach, however, would be very difficult as
the approach road (Glacier Creek Road found just beyond the town of Glacier) is
unplowed. If you can get up it, park at the trailhead at 3700 feet. The forty foot route
can be found a solid two plus hours up the trail.
Rainbow Falls
From Highway 20 drive the Baker Lake Road to .2 miles beyond the Boulder
Creek Bridge. Make a left turn onto Marten Lake Road (#1130). Follow this
road for approximately nine and a half miles to a clearcut at 3600 feet. Hike, ski,
7
or snowshoe North to Rainbow Falls. Beware of severe avalanche activity above
the falls.
North Cascades Highway


“Pour Les Enfants Avec Autos” – WI 5+ R This route can be found just past the road
cut in Washington Pass. There is a spectacular picture in the 1999/2000 Feathered
Friends Catalog. The first ascent was by Andreas Schmidt and Tim Matsui. Other
information about the route is currently sketchy at best.
Immediately after the North Cascade Highway has been plowed and opened, there is
tends to be a large amount of ice just off the road along a good portion of the
highway. The plowing usually takes place in April or May.
Mazama
Rumor has it that Mazama has a nice long solid ice season. Though the
information about particular routes remains scarce. Not only that, but Mazama can be a
difficult and remote place to get to in the winter. Usually Highway Twenty closes in late
November. As a result the drive from the West Side of the mountains becomes
incredibly long.
There are about a dozen and a half routes that come in throughout the Mazama
area each season. However, only a few of these routes are done on a regular basis. This
is all changing as the new wave mixed scene has an effect on the small community of
local climbers. Mazama residents, Steve House and Shawn McCabe are currently putting
up a slew of new routes all over the area.
To approach Mazama after the North Cascades Highway is closed drive Highway
Two to Leavenworth. It is approximately one-hundred and twenty-nine miles from
Leavenworth to Mazama. From Leavenworth continue to follow Highway Two for
approximately 19.4 miles. Turn left ontoUS-97 and follow this through Entiat and
Chelan for approximately fifty-three miles. Turn left (North) onto WA-153 and follow
this for approximately 55.3 miles. At 30.8 miles WA-153 will join with Highway
Twenty.
If you wish to avoid cold camping after a good hard day on the ice, there are a
few Hotels and Motels in the Winthrop area.
The highway is generally closed at the Early Winters Campground just a few
miles West of Mazama throughout a good portion of the winter.
Goat Wall
Goat’s Beard – WI 6+
Length: 13 Pitches
Avalanche Potential:
First Ascent: Tom Kimbrell?
Approach: Directly to the left of this, Bryan Burdo bolted a nice long sport climb.
Route:
Descent:
8
Mixed Route to the Left of Goat’s Beard put up by locals.
Gate Creek – WI 3
Length:
Avalanche Potential:
First Ascent:
Approach:
Route:
Descent:

Foggy Dew Falls
From Pateros on the Columbia River, drive the Methow Valley Highway
(Highway 153) seventeen miles toward Twisp. You will cross the river six times
before turning off on Road #4340. The road includes a sign that says “Foggy
Dew.” Some maps call this road the “Gold Creek Loop Road.” At the five mile
mark on this road, turn left onto Road #4340. In 3.7 miles the end of this road
and the trailhead proper will be reached at an elevation of 3490 feet. Follow
Foggy Dew Creek for two and a half miles until one reaches the base of the falls.
North Eastern Washington

There are reports of ice in the Northeastern most corner of the state. However, at this
time information is scarce at best.
Mountain Loop Highway
NOTABLE ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE AREA:
North Face of Big Four Mountain, Spindrift Couloir
Grade: IV+ 5.9 WI 5 Mixed
First Ascent: Bart Paull and Doug Littauer, March 1996
Perhaps one of the boldest alpine climbs to be done in the Cascades in recent years,
the Spindrift Couloir’s thin mixed ice up to 95 degrees is definitely not for the
squeamish. Perhaps the most amazing part about the route is not the difficulty but the
climbing prodigies that put it up. Believe it or not, this route was completed by two
teenagers, one of which was not yet old enough to drive. Not only that, but they did
the route in a single one day push and didn’t even rope up until they were half way up
this four thousand foot face!
Avalanche Danger: Serious
Approach: Drive to the end of the Mountain Loop Highway (State Route 530), or
at least as far as it is plowed. Usually, it is plowed to within three miles of the ice
caves on Big Four Mountain. Park in the Sno-Park facility on the North side of
the highway. Hike, snowshoe, or ski the remaining two miles up the road
alongside the Stillaguamish river to the Big Four Picnic Area. From the Picnic
9
Area continue for another mile on the Big Four Ice Caves trail to the base of the
mountain. Usually this trail is well tracked by snow-shoers. The route ascends
the rightmost couloir, just left of the North Face Bowl.
Route: From the base one can see three steps to the summit. Here, the steps will
be the means to explain the route. Cross the moat beneath the rightmost couloir
(the Spindrift Couloir) and ascend thin seventy-five degree ice with a few 5.8
moves thrown in for good measure to easier ground above. Climb easy snow
fields to the couloir proper. Climb two pitches of steep (WI 3 5.7) mixed ice to
the top of the first step. Ascend fifty degree snow for another two pitches to the
base of a steep mixed section. Climb one full pitch of 5.8 WI 5 to easier ground
above. The next two pitches should be in the WI 3 range and put a climber on top
of the second step. Following this there will be approximately three pitches of
steep snow until one reaches the base of the third pitch. This is where things get
really difficult. Climb the third mixed step at 5.9 WI 5. The top of this pitch
exceeds 95 degrees! From the top of the third pitch climb seventy degree ice and
up to sixty-five degree mixed ground to the summit cornices. Tunnel through a
cornice and you’ll be on top! The first ascent party descended from here. If you
would like to attain the true summit, ascend the ridge line to your left across
dangerous cornices.
Descent: Descend the Northwest Ridge to a col above the North Face Bowl.
Rappel off trees until able to downclimb.
For a complete narrative of the first ascent, see the 1997 American Alpine Journal.
Index
The town of Index can be found thirty-seven miles East of Everett on Highway
Two. In extremely cold years, a number of potential routes form up on steep granite in
the Index area, both before reaching the town and shortly after it. Most of these routes
would require a long approach, but might well be worth it.
The most commonly climbed route in the Index area is Bridal Veil Falls.
Unfortunately, one can look forward to this route coming in about once every four or five
years. Tick it when you can!
Bridal Veil Falls – WI 3+
This particular flow that seldomly forms is an incredible route below the towering
walls of Mt. Index. Reports indicate that it tends to be very thin when it does come
in. It is a good place for people with strong skills who can keep their head. More
often than not there is a tremendous amount of water still running when this waterfall
freezes. As a result only the strongest climbers should attempt it.
Length:
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent:
Approach:
Route:
Descent:
10
NOTABLE ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE AREA:
The North Face of Mt. Persis:
There is a monstrous ice flow that often runs up the North Face of this peak. To date
there is no information about whether it has been climber or not.
Stevens Pass
STEVENS PASS:
Warning: These two areas are on the highway and may cause a number of headaches as a
result. There are three dangers here that one does not have to contend with in other areas
listed in this book. The first is that the State Patrol doesn’t seem to appreciate ice
climbers. The second is that when the road is plowed, snow is often hurled at the routes
with tremendous force. And lastly, skiers driving up to the pass may run off the road
while gawking at you.
Stevens Pass can be found approximately ? miles East of Everett, Washington on
Highway Two.
The Pass Wall – WI 3-4+
Length: Thirty to fifty feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This particular wall can be found at approximately 3500 feet, 1.5
miles west of Stevens Pass. Parking may be a problem. Sometimes there are
pullouts created by snow plows… Sometimes there’s not.
Routes: Many routes in the 3 – 4 grade. With a little exploring, one can toprope
these.
Nordic Wall – WI 3-5
This wall is a little easier to access than the last and should probably be considered
before the other.
Length: Thirty to fifty feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This area can be found 1.1 miles west of the Stevens Pass Nordic
Center at 3200 feet. Park in the Nordic Center lot and hike to the climbs. Stay
out of the highway, hike or snowshoe to the climbs on the embankment.
Routes: Many routes with toproping potential in the WI 3 – 5 range.
HIGHWAY TWO EAST OF STEVENS PASS:

There are three large falls to the north of the highway around mile post eighty. There
are outhouses on the road here. What are these falls? Has anyone climbed them? No
one seems to know.
11
Leavenworth
Leavenworth is a beautiful little town on the East Side of the Cascades. It is well
known for its rock climbing and its access to large alpine climbs. However, it is also a
popular destination for ice climbers.
In a good season one can find MANY lines throughout the Leavenworth area.
Usually there are a few beautiful short pillars along Icicle Creek and a number of
interesting top-ropeable smears and mixed climbs. Listed here will be a number of routes
that come in on a relatively regular basis. Remember there is a lot more available in this
area for those willing to venture well above the road or far into the canyons.
Leavenworth can be found approximately eighty-seven miles East of Everett,
Washington on Highway Two. While driving East, one enters the Tumwater Canyon
approximately eighty miles from Everett.
TUMWATER CANYON:
Drury Falls – WI 4-5
This is perhaps the most stunning water ice climb in Washington State. When this
route is in, one can stand on the highway and still be in awe of the size and majesty of
the beautiful blue falls above. And when one is on them… Well, you can imagine.
Length: Six to seven pitches
Avalanche Danger: Serious
First Ascent: Steve Pollack and Bob McDougal, February 1978
Approach: One can see the climb above mile marker number 94 in the Falls
Creek Drainage. No doubt there is a bit of adventure in accessing this climb. One
has to cross the Wenatchee River in order to access the route. The best way to do
this is to use a rubber raft (beware of all the sharp gear) to paddle across the river.
Perhaps the best place to do this is at Lake Jolanda, near the Candy Shop. Once
on the other side, hike back upstream to the Falls Creek Drainage at
approximately 1500 feet. Hike directly up the drainage to the base of the falls.
Beware of avalanche conditions on this approach.
Route: The falls can be broken into two sections. The lower falls generally is
done in two pitches. The ice kicks back to near vertical at the top of this first
section. To ascend the upper falls, follow a series of steep steps to the top.
Descent: Descend south under the falls to tree anchors. Rappel from anchors.
The Pencil – WI 5
Length: Three Sixty-Meter Pitches
Avalanche Danger: Serious
First Ascent: Kjell Swedin and Bob McDougall, February 1983
Approach: See the Approach for Drury Falls. This climb is also found in the
Falls Creek Drainage. After crossing the river ascend the dangerous avalanche
slopes to the base of the classic skinny pencil shaped ice route at (elevation.) A
good bivy can be found near the base of the falls.
12
Route: Ascend dead vertical ice to a belay. A sixty meter rope is not a bad idea if
you don’t want to be simulclimbing on WI 5. The second pitch blasts up and to
the left. Reports indicate that it is often a mixed pitch. The third and easiest pitch
ascends a large curtain at WI 4.
Descent: Bring a second rope for the rappels. Descend snow-covered slabs on
the climbers left. Continue down a ramp until you reach the end. Rappel down
into the gully below.


There are other short climbs high in the Falls Creek drainage. Some are as long as
two pitches.
There are a number of smears and short routes throughout Tumwater Canyon.
ICICLE CREEK CANYON:
To access the Icicle Creek Canyon, turn South onto the Icicle Creek Road at the
Western edge of Leavenworth.
Falls Behind the Snow Creek Parking Lot
Length:
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent:
Approach: Park in the Snow Creek parking lot approximately 4.2 miles from the
start of the Icicle Creek Road. Cross the street to obvious steep falls left of
Careno Crags.
Route:
Descent:


There appear to be a number of potential routes on and around the Careno Crags area.
Whether these ever come totally in is anybody’s guess.
There appear to be a number of potential routes on the Icicle Buttress. One that may
come in and go at about WI 4 follows Cocaine Connection then the R&D Route.
Early season it could be done in thin conditions, but one would have to climb up to
5.6 on rock to finish it.
Hubba Hubba Area:
From the Bridge Creek Campground, one can see three large falls on the hillside across
the Icicle. There are actually four routes up there in the WI 2-3 range. The fourth route
is to the left of the largest fall (Hubba Bubba) and one can only see it when close to the
routes.
Hubba Hubba – WI 3
This is a beautiful classic climb that tends to come in early season and stay in for a
good portion of the year. However, “in” is a tricky word. People climb this route
when a good portion of the ice is a mere two inches thick.
Length: One Pitch
13
Avalanche Danger: Moderate to Serious – Often when the avalanche danger on the
West Side is extreme it is not too bad in Leavenworth. This can sometimes give
people a false sense of security on approaches like this. I know of at least one serious
incident wherein people were swept all the way down the avalanche gully.
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Approximately 8.4 miles from the intersection with highway two is
the Bridge Creek Campground. Park at the campground. Cross the bridge and
turn right onto a small gated roadway. Follow this road for about one hundred
feet . Turn left and make a bee line straight up the hillside toward the falls.
Beware of avalanche danger in the gully. Hubba Bubba and adjacent routes are at
approximately 3300 feet. It should take about an hour to make the approach.
Route: There are a number of variations here. Most people start on the right side
of the falls and stay to the right. Rock protection or pitons may be needed to
protect the route.
Descent: Either rappel the route or walk off to the right.
Left of Hubba Bubba – WI 3 R
Length: Two short pitches
Avalanche Danger: Moderate to Serious
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: See Hubba Bubba approach
Route: This is the thin route in the gully to the left of Hubba Bubba. Climb the
first short but slightly run out pitch to a good belay on a ledge. Many people elect
to call it quits on this route here, for the second pitch is a thin smear running up a
slab to the top. The pro on this pitch is nearly nonexistent. Be sure to bring pins
and some rock pro if you decide to do this route.
Descent: Either rappel the route or walk off to the right.
Right of Hubba Bubba – WI 2+ - 3 R
Though a little less appeasing there are two routes to the right of Hubba Bubba.
Length: One Pitch Each
Avalanche Danger: Moderate to Serious
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: See approach for Hubba Bubba
Routes: Each of these two routes is a thin climb where rock pro would be very
helpful.
Descent: Either rappel the route or walk off to the right.
Blast Rock Wall – Mixed WI 4
The Blast Rock wall on Icicle Creek Road sports a number of short interesting
toprope problems. Many of these climbs require a bit of drytooling here and there.
Though not as spectacular as many other climbs in the area, they tend to be a lot of
fun.
Length: Thirty to fourty feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
14
Approach: This area can be found on the Icicle approximately 9.7 miles from
Highway Two. Usually the road is closed at Bridge Creek Campground, 1.2
miles from the wall. If this is the case, hike, ski, or hitchhike a ride on a
snowmobile the remainder of the distance.
Routes: There are a number of variations and drips. Most are short and in the WI
4 range. It’s easy to climb up and toprope any of them.
SNOW CREEK VALLEY:
Switchback Smear – WI 4+?
When formed one can see this from the Snow Creek Parking Lot.
Length: Thirty Feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Park in the Snow Creek Parking Lot and hike the trail for about fifteen
minutes. When this route is formed one can see it across the Icicle. It can be
found in the middle of the first set of switchbacks on the trail.
Route: Climb the obvious smear. This can be toproped rather easily by going up
another set of switchbacks then descending onto the top of the route.
Descent: Walk off the top.
Millenium Wall Area:
The three Millenium Walls can be found about an hour’s hike up the Snow Lakes trail.
For those familiar with the area, the ice crags are at the turn off for Snow Creek Wall or
at approximately 2800 feet. The routes found here are excellent short climbs with a lot of
variety between the grades. They also tend to form early which is a plus.
First Millenium Wall – WI 2-3+
Length: Thirty to forty feet
Avalanche Danger: Moderate
First Recorded Ascent: Krista Eytchison and Jason Martin, January 2000
Approach: See Millenium Wall introduction
Routes: There are four to six easily toproped routes here.
Second Millenium Wall – WI 4-5
Length: Thirty to forty feet
Avalanche Danger: Moderate
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Approximately one hundred feet beyond the first Millenium Wall
right at the turn off for Snow Creek Wall.
Routes: There are one to three thin routes here. All can easily be toproped.
Third Millenium Wall – WI 3-4
Length: Thirty to forty feet.
Avalanche Danger: Moderate
First Ascent: Unknown
15
Approach: This ice crag can be found one hundred feet beyond the Second
Millenium Wall and slightly up the hillside. It is easily seen from the trail.
Routes: There are three to six easily toproped climbs on this wall.
Snow Creek Wall Area:
 There are some sick potential routes on Snow Creek Wall. One in particular runs up
the white slabs between Outer Space and the actual White Slabs route.
 There is quite a bit of ice in the descent gully for Snow Creek Wall.
 Left of Snow Creek Wall, there are two gullies with some interesting ice available.

One can see some ice in the avalanche gullies beyond the second set of switchbacks.
MOUNTAINEER CREEK ROAD:

At approximately one mile up the Mountaineers Creek Road, one can see a
tremendous amount of ice on the other side of the valley. There is a potential log
crossing at the one-mile point. However, one should be very aware of avalanche
danger.

Northwest Side of Cashmere Mountain – Intermittent ice connected by steep snow.
Some sections of steep are in excess of five hundred feet.
The Palisades
There are a number of enjoyable shorter climbs in the Palisades Canyon. This is a
twenty-five mile long canyon with a river at the base that empties into the Columbia
River. The geology of the rock that the ice forms on is similar to that in Frenchman’s
Coulee. Most of the routes fall from basalt cliffs and columns.
There is one major issue with climbing in this area. ALL CLIMBS ARE ON
PRIVATE PROPERTY. Does this mean that they cannot be climbed? Of course not.
Instead it means that one must procure permission whenever possible. Don’t misbehave
and be sure that upon leaving everything is as it was found.
To get to the town of Palisades from Leavenworth, drive East on Highway 2.
Note that Highway 2 joins with US-97 shortly after passing Peshastin. Continue driving
on this road for twenty miles until you reach Wenatchee. Stay straight to eventually
merge with Wenatchee Avenue. Wenatchee Avenue will become WA-285 South. Make
a slight right at 1.1 miles to stay on Wenatchee Ave/WA-285. Continue straight onto N.
Wenatchee Avenue and follow this for two and a half miles. Take the WA-285 South
ramp towards East Wenatchee (US-2)/Spokane/(WA-28). Shortly after that, merge onto
Stevens Street. Continue on straight to join with WA-285. After one-half mile take a
slight right onto WA-28. Follow this for 14.2 miles. Turn left onto Palisades Road
Southwest and follow this for eleven and a half miles into town. Three miles beyond the
town the valley turns and Douglas Creek flows into the main creek.
16
Anaerobic Sex – WI 5
Length: Forty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: The route is six hundred feet off the road to the left, near the Douglas
Creek Bridge. Park .2 miles beyond the two mile marker. Be sure you are well
off the road.
Route: Though short, this route is steep and difficult. Unfortunately it’s often
wet, but still fun.
Descent: Walk off.
Aerobic Sex -- WI 4-5
Length: Three Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: The route can be found 2.7 miles up the valley, just before the alluvial
fan. It is the left fall of the two.
Route: The first pitch of this route is the crux, it is steep, tricky, and often thin.
The following two pitches are both easy with short vertical sections.
Descent: Walk off to the left.
White’s Delight – WI 4
Length: Fifty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce White and Mark Shipman, January 1979
Approach: This route can be found fifty feet to the right of Aerobic Sex.
Route: Not quite as steep as Aerobic Sex, but still a good short outing.
Descent: Walk off to the left.
Biram Left and Right – WI 5
Length: Two short pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Sheek and Mark Shipman, January 1984
Approach: Immediately after Douglas Creek there is a driveway on the right.
The route can be found approximately three hundred yards behind the house and
can easily be seen from the road. Enter the driveway and ask permission before
attempting the falls or trespassing. Once permission is obtained, continue up the
driveway toward the falls.
Route: Climb the first pitch to a small stance about half way up. Belay here, then
climb the second pitch.
Descent: Walk off.
Skookumchuck – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
17
First Ascent: Glen Frese and Bruce White, December 1985
Approach: This route can be found one half mile from town on the left. It is on
private property, so be sure to get permission. The family that owns this property
has had difficulty with trespassers, so tread lightly and DO NOT climb without
permission.
Route: Unfortunately this climb seldomly forms up. When it is in condition, the
best line is on the left side of the fall. There is a good belay stance about half way
up. Usually the second pitch involves climbing on or beside a water-tube of ice.
As a result of this tube, it is impossible to hear one’s partner.
Descent: Walk off
Yerba Buena – WI 3
Length: Forty-Five Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce White and Mark Shipman,
Approach: This route can be found between mile markers seventeen and eighteen
on the left across the valley.
Route: The climb ascends a groove in the hillside, which tops out in a patch of
mint. A fun climb.
Descent: Walk off.
The Shipman Route – WI 3-4
Length: Forty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Turn left just beyond mile marker eighteen. Drive approximately one
mile up the road and park. The route is a short hike up the creek.
Route: The short drip is on the left wall of the canyon. Another short climb has
also been sent slightly further up the canyon.
Descent: Walk off.
The Blue Cocoon – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce White and Mark Shipman
Approach: Shortly after mile marker eighteen, make a hard right up a steep hill.
From the top of the hill note the valley to the right. In the past two climbs have
formed on the left side of the valley.
Route: Climb two thin pitches with short vertical steps.
Descent: Walk off.
Tracks of My Fears – WI 5
Length: One-hundred Twenty Five Feet, Often climbed in Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Mark Shipman and Bruce Tracy
18
Approach: The route can be found approximately two hundred feet right of The
Blue Cocoon.
Route: Send the route in one to two pitches. Note that the bottom of the route
does not come into view until one is close to it.
Descent: Walk off.
Falling Falls – WI 5
The story on this route goes that Brad Rogers took a fall at the top of the first pitch
way back in 1979. Thus the name, Falling Falls!
Length: Three Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce White and Glen Frese
Approach: This route can be found shortly after mile marker twenty after a sharp
left turn. One can see the route on the right side of the road in a deep bowl.
Route: The first pitch includes several short vertical steps which one can climb
around if so desired. The second pitch is usually climbed on the more solid left
side. Those looking for a real adventure may want to venture onto the relentlessly
steep and often chandeliered right side. The third pitch doesn’t often form well,
but when it does it creates a large freestanding column which may or may not be
attached well at the top. Many parties elect to rappel from the top of the second
pitch, unwilling to risk the dangerous third pitch.
Descent: One can descend easily from any of the three pitches. On top of the
first pitch, a climber can easily walk off to the right. At the top of the second
pitch, one may walk along a large ledge to a bush that can be used as a rappel
anchor. At the top of the third pitch, one may walk to the right until a hill is
reached which may be easily walked down.
February Falls – WI 5
Length: Sixty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Fred Dunham, 1968
Approach: Begin the approach the same way that Falling Falls is approached.
However, this route can be found a few miles beyond. Park at the cattle guard
above the valley. Walk North toward a large bushy tree. Pass the tree on the
right. Cross a small fence and continue North toward cliffs. Climb down through
a few short cliffs to a small group of trees with red bark. Here the creek can be
found that feeds February Falls. Gear up and leave your packs on top of the route.
Route: Rappel down the beautiful free standing sixty-foot pillar. Once at the
base, ascend the route.
Descent: Once back on top of the route there should be no need to descend again.
Mayme and Rose – WI 4-5
Length: Sixty-Five Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce White and Mark Shipman, 1984
19
Approach: This route can be found three hundred feet to the West of February
Falls.
Route: Climb the beautiful steep ice in the center.
Descent: Walk off.
Lake Lenore & Soap Lake
There are a couple interesting routes in the Lake Lenore area. Though they are
not the longest routes featured in this guide, they are great stepping stones for those
moving from the WI 4 to the WI 5 climbing arena.
To reach Lake Lenore, continue to follow Highway Two until just before reaching
Coulee City. Turn right (South) onto Highway Seventeen. Routes can be found
alongside the two lakes on Highway Seventeen.
Guiness – WI 4-5
Length: One-hundred Forty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: John Barry, Bruce White, and Mark Shipman, January 1986
Approach: This route can be found approximately a quarter of a mile up the gully
West of the Lake. Look up to the opposite side of the road from mile marker 82.
Walk across the frozen lake and up the gully to the base of the route.
Route: Though it can be done in one rope length, there is an obvious belay about
half way up the route if one desires to do it in two pitches.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Kickapoo Joy Juice – WI 4-5
Length: One-Hundred Twenty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately one hundred feet North of
Guiness.
Route: Generally climbers ascend the left side of the route which starts in a gully.
One has to negotiate a few bushes near the top.
Descent: Walk off to the right.

There are a few potential climbs near mile marker eighty. Not to mention a number
of possibilities on the opposite side of the lake.
Miller Time – WI 5
Length: Seventy-five Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Mark Sheek and Mark Shipman, January 1985
Approach: This route can be found just Southwest of Soap Lake. Exit Highway
17 onto Road 23, heading Northwest. Drive approximately 1.8 miles before the
route comes into view. Rappel the cliff.
Route: Ascend the very steep and challenging seventy-five foot route.
20
Descent: Rappel the route.
Bavarian Dark – WI 5
Length: Two pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Mark Sheek and Mark Shipman, January 1985
Approach: Turn South off Highway 17 just past mile marker eighty-one. Drive a
quarter mile and park at the gate. Continue another quarter mile South until the
route comes into view. This is the route on the left.
Route: Ascend the route. Be aware that this route is often thin and difficult to
protect.
Descent: Either rappel the route or walk off left. One may also walk about
seventy-five yards right to a bush to make a thirty-foot rappel.
Henry’s – WI 2
Length: Seventy Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately seventy-five yards to the South
of Bavrian Dark.
Route: Ascend the center of the route.
Descent: See the descent for Bavarian Dark.
Sody Pop – WI 4
Length: Forty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately three hundred yards North of
Bavarian Dark.
Route: Climb the center of the short route.
Descent: See the descent for Bavarian Dark.
Rainier Light – WI 4
Length: Seventy Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Mark Sheek and Mark Shipman, January 1985
Approach: This route can be found approximately four-hundred and fifty feet
West of Bavarian Dark.
Route: Steep and short, this route is a little less intimidating than Bavarian Dark.
Descent: See the descent for Bavarian Dark.
Champagne – WI 5
Length: Two to Three Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Glen Frese, Mark Sheek, and Mark Shipman, January 1985
21
Approach: This route can easily be seen on the south end of Blue Lake up a short
ravine. Park at the Blue Lake Fire Station.
Route: One may want to use a sixty-meter rope for this climb. The first steep
section is approximately two-hundred feet long to an obvious belay. Walk up the
creek a short distance to the second easier one-hundred and ten foot section.
Descent: Walk off to the left and descend through cliff bands. A short rappel will
return you to your pack.
Scotch on the Rocks – WI 5
Length: One-Hundred and Twenty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Glen Frese and Mark Shipman, January 1985
Approach: This route can be found one mile North (Is this supposed to be
south? Old guides are different) of Champagne on the highway. One can see
the route from the rest area. Park approximately nine hundred feet south of the
rest area. Hike up the drainage for about twenty minutes until you reach the base
of the route.
Route: Climb the center of the beautiful route.
Descent: Walk off.
Even Cowgirls get the Blues (a.k.a. Children of the Sun) – WI 5
Length: One-Hundred and Thirty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be seen above the golf course at Sun Lake State Park.
Route: This route is a very steep and beautiful column.
Descent: Walk off.
Clockwork Orange – WI 5
Length: Three Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Glen Frese and Tom Hargus, January 1985
Approach: This route can be found directly across the road from Even Cowgirls
get the Blues. Hike up the drainage for approximately twenty minutes to reach
the base of the route.
Route: Ascend the center of the climb in three pitches.
Descent: Walk off to the right.
Moses Coulee
Twenty Miles West of Coulee City, Highway Two crosses the Moses Coulee.
There are two prominent routes in this part of the gorge and many possible routes.
Butch Cassidy – WI 5 R
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
22
First Ascent: Glen Frese and Mark Shipman, January 1985
Approach: Drive North of Highway Two on Jameson Lake Road for three and a
half miles. Park.
Route: This drip is a difficult route to protect adequately. Some parties elect to
climb behind the curtain of ice on the first pitch. Some ways up, they punch
through the ice and continue to climb. A scary if not adequate way to protect the
first pitch. At the top of the first pitch, traverse left to the last seventy-five foot
portion of the climb.
Descent: Walk up and left until on ledges, dropping down as soon as possible.
Rappel seventy feet into the gully below.
The Sundance Kid – WI 5
Length: One-Hundred and Twenty-Five Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Glen Frese and Mark Shipman, January 1986
Approach: This route can be found approximately four miles North of Jameson
Lake Road. Take the left fork and you will be able to drive to within a couple
hundred feet of the route.
Route: Ascend the steep but wonderful ice in the center of the route.
Descent: Walk up and left, dropping as soon as possible.
Banks Lake
Banks Lake is a manmade lake created by the Grand Coulee Dam. There are a
number of prominent summer rock climbs in the area, however in the winter Banks Lake
is a true wonderland.
Coulee City is approximately eighty-four miles East of Leavenworth on Highway
Two. Shortly after passing through Coulee City, turn left (North) onto Highway 155
heading towards Grand Coulee Dam. Most of the routes can be accessed from this
highway.
The Devils Punch Bowl (left side) – WI 2
Length: One-Hundred and Fifty Five Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately 1.3 miles North of Steamboat
Rock State Park. Note the location of the climb and park in a turn out. The
remainder of the approach will take about five minutes to walk to the base of the
route.
Route: There is one short vertical step that leads to easier ground above. This
makes for a great outing for a first time ice leader.
Descent: Walk off to the South.
The Devils Punch Bowl (right side) – WI 3
Length: One-Hundred and Forty Feet.
Avalanche Danger:
23
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: See The Devils Punch Bowl (left side).
Route: Ascend a small vertical step to a fifty-five foot headwall.
Descent: Same as for The Devils Punch Bowl (left side).
Phase Transition – WI 4
Length: Ninety Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately forty feet to the left of The
Devils Punch Bowl (left).
Route: Climb two shorter vertical steps to a steep column.
Descent: Walk off to the South.
Trotsky’s Folly – WI 3
Length: ?
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: On the approach to the above climbs note the small cove to the
Northeast.
Route: Climb two vertical steps to the top.
Descent: Walk off.
The Absent Minded Professor – WI 3-4
Length: Two pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found to the East (right) of Route 155 near mile
marker four.
Route: This climb includes four short vertical steps. Belay at the top of the
second step.
Descent: Walk off to the South.
The Cable – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Jim Yoder, 1984
Approach: This route can be found across from the Banks Lake Reclamation
District sign. Park in the turnout.
Route: Ascend a steep one hundred and fifty foot pitch. The second pitch tends
to be mixed and scary.
Descent: Walk off to the South.
H2O2 – WI 5
Length: Two Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
24
First Ascent: Mark Shipman and Tom Schibig, December 1984
Approach: This route can be found on the same cliffband as “The Cable”
approximately three-hundred yards North.
Route: Ascend the first pitch for about eighty feet to a ledge. The second pitch
continues up for another fifty feet or so.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Zenith – WI 5
Length: Two pitches with the first pitch running at nearly one-hundred and eighty
feet. Difficult to set up a belay earlier as the route is near vertical.
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown.
Approach: This route can be found or Route 155 between mile markers fourteen
and fifteen.
Route: Be aware that the first pitch of this climb can be tricky. Either use a sixty
meter rope or be prepared for the second to simulclimb. The second pitch can be
ascended to the right up very steep ground for about eighty feet. One may also
elect to climb an easier gully to the left.
Descent: Climb or scramble six hundred feet up and right. Descend a slope for
three hundred feet.
The Emerald – WI 4+
Length: One-Hundred and Twenty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found in a hidden coulee slightly North of H202.
Route: A few short steps lead to a vertical pillar.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Tea n’ the Sahara – WI 5
Length: Three to Four Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Bruce Anderson, Bill Crawford, and Mark Shipman, December 1983
Approach: This route can be found on the West side of the lake, approximately
five miles from the South end. The easiest way to approach these climbs is to
walk across the frozen lake. Be extremely careful if you choose to do this, the
lake is a reservoir and if the water level recedes the ice on the lake becomes very
brittle and dangerous. Falling through the ice and drowning is a very real
possibility is such conditions. An earlier guide-book recommended carrying a
small inflatable raft as an extra precaution. Not a bad idea.
Route: One may climb the curtain, the free standing pillars, or the easier ramp on
the right. Obviously the most exciting and exposed route climbs the pillars. The
second and third pitches are each approximately one-hundred and twenty to onehundred and thirty feet in length ending in good stances for a belay. The fourth
pitch ascends a short wall to the top.
Descent: Rappel the route.
25
Delusions of Grand Do-er – WI 6
Length: Three Pitches
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent: Glen Frese, Mark Shipman, and Curt Haire, January 1985
Approach: This route can be found across the lake, just South of the boat ramp.
It is approximately eleven and a half miles from Coulee City on Highway 155.
As with the previous route, the easiest approach is directly across the frozen lake.
Be extremely careful if you choose to do this, the lake is a reservoir and if the
water level recedes the ice on the lake becomes very brittle and dangerous.
Falling through the ice and drowning is a very real possibility in such conditions.
Route: Ascend the first pitch to an ice cave. Now suck it up to climb two
extremely steep pitches with short overhangs. Most climbers choose to ascend
the right side for the first pitch and the left for the second two pitches.
Descent: Rappel the route.


There are tons of short ice routes and longer as yet unascended routes throughout the
Banks Lake area.
There is a one pitch route between “The Cable” and “H202.” At this time
information on any ascents this route has seen is unavailable.
Snoqualmie Pass
DENNY CREEK:
Keekwulee Falls – WI ?
Length:
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent:
Approach: Drive I-90 and take the Denny Creek exit. Follow the Denny Creek
road three miles to the Melakwa Lake trailhead at 2300 feet. You may have to ski
or snowshoe this distance depending on snow conditions. Follow the Denny
Creek drainage 1.5 miles to Keekwulee Falls.
Route:
Descent:
Snowshoe Falls – WI ?
Length:
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent:
Approach: See approach for Keekwulee Falls. Continue up the Denny Creek
drainage from Keekwulee Falls for one half mile until Snowshoe Falls come into
sight.
Franklin Falls – WI ?
Length:
26
Avalanche Danger:
First Ascent:
Approach:
Route:
Descent:
ALPENTAL:
To approach Alpental, drive Interstate Ninety to Snoqualmie Pass. Drive under the
freeway onto Alpental road. Drive a short distance to the Alpental parking lot.
Alpental Parking Lot Routes (aka Alpental Falls 1-4) – WI 2-3+
There are four routes north of the Alpental Ski Area parking lot. One of the
advantages of the location for these routes is the fact that they are lit by ski area.
Thus one can get in a bit of ice climbing on weekdays after work when this area is in.
The most difficult aspect of these routes is that they require a large amount of early
season ice and a small amount of early season snow. Many of these routes become
covered once the real snowfall hits.
Length: One to Four Pitches
Avalanche Danger: Moderate – They often fire artillery shells at Snoqualmie
Mountain to keep the avalanche danger down. You do not want to be on one of these
routes when they are doing this. Contact the Ranger Station in North Bend to find out
when they fire the shells, (425)888-1421. You may also want to check with the Ski
Patrol at Alpental Ski area for more information.
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Park in the Alpental Parking Lot and climb up easy snow fields to the
route of your choice.
Route: There are many possibilities. Choose whichever seems the most fun.
However, beware that these routes get heavily covered with snow and may be
unclimbable after a large snow-fall. They are best early season after a cold snap.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Chair Lift Falls – WI 4
This particular route is inside the ski area directly to the left of the Armstrong Express
chair lift at (elevation) feet. It is different from Pan Dome Falls in the Mt. Baker Ski
area in that it is directly above a ski run. As a result some of the ski patrol people
don’t look kindly on people climbing it during business hours. However, at the same
time, others are fine with it. If you make the approach during business hours please
respect the skiers and stay out of their way. If you want to avoid any confrontations
with skiers or ski patrol, Alpental Ski Area tends to be closed on Mondays after the
first of the year. This would be an ideal time to make an ascent. Call (425)434-7669
for more information.
Length: Forty Feet
Avalanche Potential: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
27
Approach: Park in the Alpental Parking Lot and find a way to cross the creek.
This may be the most difficult part if the ski area is closed as they gate their
bridge. Once across the creek, hike up the slope beside the Armstrong Express
chair to (elevation) feet. Ascend easy snow to the falls. If you have skis and are
willing to lay out the cash, you may ride the chairlift up, then descend to the falls.
Route: This can be toproped by walking around to the left of the cliff band. Be
sure to have someone belay you down to the top of the falls as it is steep.
Descent: Rappel the route or walk off the top.
North Face of Denny Mountain – WI 2-3 Mixed Potential
Denny Mountain is the peak on which Alpental Ski Area is located. These routes are
high enough above the ski area so as not to cause a problem. However, if you wish to
hike to these routes, it is recommended that you avoid weekends as there are skiers
everywhere on the approach.
Length: One to three pitches
Avalanche Danger: Moderate – One has to climb ungroomed, unskied, snow with a
bit of release potential.
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: The best approach to these routes is to take chairlifts to the summit
and ski down to the climbs. Ski the Adrenaline Run, which starts to the right of
the Edelweiss Chair. Descend the mountain keeping right on the Lower
International Run until you are beneath the North Face of Denny Mountain. From
there hike up thirty degree snow slopes to the gully of your choice. If you wish to
hike in, park in the Alpental Parking Lot and make a bee-line straight toward the
North Face. This will take at least two hours.
Route: Choose one of the four gullies to climb. There is some mixed potential in
the gullies depending on how the ice has set up. You may want a bit of rock gear
or pitons as a result.
Descent: Rappel the routes.



There is a large tongue of ice hanging from the left most side of Denny Mountain. It
can be seen from the Alpental parking lot and the Armstrong Express chair lift. No
doubt it would be an epic mixed climb if one were to do it.
There is an interesting Grade Two Ramble Style Climb about one half mile up Snow
Creek Trail in a gully on the ridge connecting Guye and Snoqualmie peaks. One
must gain slightly over a thousand feet of elevation from the trail to the first ice on
ramble. This gully follows steps of intermittent ice and snow for approximately five
hundred feet. Unfortunately it is and early season climb as it gets covered in snow
rather quickly. (Is this one of the Alpental Falls routes?)
There is a spectacular waterfall about one mile up Snow Creek Trail. There is a large
chockstone that one must pass underneath on this route. It is plainly visible from the
trail. This route can be found at approximately the 3600 foot elevation off the trail.
(Is this one of the Alpental Falls routes?)
NOTABLE ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE AREA:
28
The North Face of Chair Peak:
Grade: III WI 2+
First Ascent: Kit Lewis, Charlie Hampson, Rob Harris, and Greg Jacobson, January
1975
The North Face of Chair is a classic must do ice climb for any true Cascade Climber.
However it can be a difficult route to get on for weekend warriors. It comes in and
goes out throughout the entire season. The extreme avalanche danger on the
approach also comes in and goes out all season.
For more information on this route, see Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Jim
Nelson and Peter Potterfield
The North Face Coulior, Abiel Peak
Grade: III WI 3
First Ascent: Dallas Kloke and C. Weidner, January 1997
Avalanche Danger: Serious
Approach: Abiel Peak is located just above and to the southeast of Lake Annette.
One can access the peak by parking in the Asahel Curtis Nature Trail parking lot.
A trail from the lot ascends seventeen hundred feet in three and a half miles to
reach Lake Annette. From the lake, the route can be seen just left of the center of
the peak. Ascend steep timbered snow slopes to reach the base of the route.
Route: Climb the narrow ice gully ending in a hanging belay. On the second
pitch traverse somewhat diagonally and to the left ascending two short near
vertical steps. Climb two pitches of forty-degree snow until back into the coulior.
Climb the last two pitches in the coulior until near the top. Exit left at the top of
the route.
Descent: Descend the broad west ridge. At 4600 feet there will be a saddle from
which one must descend through timbered slopes back towards the lake.
Ellensburg

Rumor has it that there is a small climb on Umptanum Creek near Ellensburg. The
route ascends Umptanum Falls for approximately thirty feet. Sources indicate that the
falls can be climbed at approximately WI 4. Another report has it that this is on
private property.
Tootsi Roll Falls
NOTABLE ALPINE ROUTES IN THE AREA:
Southwest Face, Esmerelda Peak
This is the peak North of the parking lot at the end of the Teneway River Road.
The route is on the left side of face split by gullies. One may require a snowmobile to
make the approach.
Vantage
29
The Vantage area has become an extremely popular destination for rock climbers.
It is often teeming with climbers on spring weekends when it’s wet on the West Side of
the mountains. However, it is as an ice climbing destination that we will discuss the
merits of Vantage climbing.
Frenchman Coulee and Vantage climbing is located two miles North of Interstate
90. It can be found smack dab between the towns of George and Vantage. From I-90
take exit 143 and go Northwest on Silica Road. After traveling approximately .7 miles,
turn left (West) onto Vantage Road. This road continues down to the Columbia River.
For our purposes, you will want to park at the Feathers Parking Lot. This can be found on
your left 1.5 miles down the road at the base of Agathla tower. Park and look for ice!
FRENCHMAN COULEE:
Frenchman Fall – WI 4
Length: One Pitch – Can be broken into two if so desired.
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This is the ice climb that can be seen as one drives down the paved
road to the feathers. In the off-season it is the wet streak on the North Side of
Frenchman Coulee. One can descend into the Coulee from just beyond the
Feathers Parking area.
Route: Ascend the center of the route. There is a step that can be used to break
the route into two pitches.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Red Rain – WI 4
Length: Seventy-Five Feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately six-hundred feet to the left of
Frenchman’s Falls.
Route: Ascend the center of the thin and difficult to protect route.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Arctic Grail – WI 4
Length: Sixty-Five Feet
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This route can be found approximately four-hundred feet to the right
of Frenchman’s Falls.
Route: Ascend the center of the steep ice.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Fugs Fall – WI 3+
Length: Two Pitches
30
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: This waterfall can be found between Rump Rider Wall and Fugs Wall
at the head of Echo Basin. From the base of Agaltha Tower, take the Near Trail
across the top of the Mesa. Hike past the Tower until you reach the “Y” in the
trail. Follow the steeper trail West up switchbacks until you are on top. Continue
to follow the trail down the notch of the Near Chimney. Once at the base of the
Chimney, continue in a Southerly direction to the base of the falls.
Route: Climb the center of the route and note the good belay stances on ledges.
Rock pro may be helpful.
Descent: Either walk off to the South or rappel the route.
Yakima
Horsetail Falls – WI 3-3+
Length:
Avalanche Danger: Minimal
First Ascent: Unknown
Approach: Horsetail Falls is can be found on the right side of Forest Road #19,
one mile beyond where FR 19 turns off of Highway 410 heading towards
Chinook Pass from the East. From I-90 in Ellensburg, take the I-84 exit to
Yakima. Drive (?) miles before you turn right onto Highway 410 going West to
Chinook Pass and Naches. (Be aware that the sign says you are heading towards
White Pass and Naches.) Shortly after going through Naches US 12 will turn off
to the left. Go straight on Highway 410 toward Chinook Pass. Pass through the
small town of Cliffdell. Aproximately two or three miles beyond the town, right
before crossing the Little Naches River, turn right on FR 19. Drive down the road
for about a mile until you see a sign reading “Green Dot Trails.” Pull out here.
Look up from the road to your right at Horsetail Falls. There is literally no hiking
approach.
Route: Choose a line on the falls, but be aware. These falls seldomly freeze
solid. However, they can be toproped by hiking upriver a couple hundred yards
until you feel you’re beyond the falls. Turn right and drop down into the
drainage. There are trees to toprope off, but they may require quite a bit of sling
material, as the trees are at least thirty or so feet back from the lip.
Descent: Either rap the route or walk off the top.
White Pass
STROBACH MOUNTAIN:

There are some reports of spectacular ice climbs near the Tieton River Basin on the
North side of Strobach Mountain. Reports indicate that there are a number of single
pitch climbs in the 3-6 range that require double sixty meter rappels for descents.
Another report has it that there are up to eighteen new routes on and around Strobach
Mountain. Approach information is difficult to ascertain, however it is rumored that
31
there is little avalanche danger in or around the three and a half hour approach. One
source indicates that one can see the climbs from White Pass. There is an airstrip
used by snowmobilers just beyond White Pass towards the Tietan River Basin.
Slightly beyond this point there is an old logging road that will be impassible with a
car. Hike or ski this road for three miles until flagging on the side of the road
indicates the trail one should use for the remainder of the approach. The routes can
be found at around five thousand feet.
Known Routes:
1st Ice On the Right – WI 4 First Ascent: Larry Nevers and Yale Preston.
Ice Dream – WI 4+ First Ascent: Larry Nevers and Yale Preston.
The two preceeding routes are separated by a rock formation
known as “The Septum.” This divides the first climb from the
main area.
Sad Ce’bu – WI 3+ First Ascent: Yale Preston.
Sudden Change of Plan – WI 3, Just left of Sad Ce’bu. Yale Preston, Larry
Nevers Jr.
It appears that Larry Nevers Jr. and partner Yale Preston are compiling a
comprehensive guide book to Rock and Ice in this area. Hopefully these two locals
will be able to identify and define some of the difficult approaches and lesser known
climbs in the Tieton River Basin.

There is other unclimbed ice in the upper gully of the Tieton Valley past the area
known as “Moon Rocks.”
Southern Cascades

There are reports of ice in the Southern Cascades, but information is scarce at this
time.
Mt. Rainier National Park
Rumor has it that there was a guidebook to ice climbing in Mt. Rainier National
Park at one time. To date that guide has eluded this author.
Narada Falls
Comet Falls
NOTABLE ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE AREA:
North Face of Pinnacle Peak
This is a beautiful winter alpine route with variations that can make it a beginner ice route
or an advanced route. In good conditions, Pinnacle Peak is hard to beat.
Grade II – WI 2
First Ascent of Winter Route: Unknown
32
Approach: Park at the Narada Falls parking area and climb towards the peak.
Route: As the route gets steeper pull out tools and a rope if you feel you need
one. Continue up steep snow and ice to a rock outcropping for approximately two
pitches. Here there are two choices to attain the summit. Either climb up an
exposed snow gully to the left or climb steep free hanging icicles to the right.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Bluewood
The Bluewood Ski area is located in the southeastern corner of the state. There are
reports of ice formations stemming from seeps above the North Fork of the Touchet
River very near there. Under the right conditions a very nice band of ice forms that is
approximately seventy-five to a hundred feet wide.
NORTH FORK TOUCHET RIVER
Weeping Wall -- WI 2-6
Length: Thirty to Fifty Feet
Avalanche Danger:
First Recorded Ascent: Kevin Pogue, 1990
Approach: Drive to Dayton on US Highway 12. From Dayton follow the signs to
the Bluewood Ski Area. Once the paved road becomes gravel, continue for 4.1
miles and park on the left. There is literally no approach time from the car as the
routes are about three minutes away.
Route: As stated in the introduction to this area, routes may be found on a wide
weeping wall above the creek-sized Touchet River. Reports indicate that there
are easy low angle routes on the right side of the wall. Towards the middle, the
ice is eighty degrees with fifteen feet of vertical climbing at the top. To the left,
there are steep, and in some cases, free hanging pillars. Atop the climbs there are
three sets of double bolt anchors. They can be found above the middle and left
climbs. If you are the first person to do these routes after a snowfall, the anchors
will have to be dug out. Locals have attached ropes to the bolts that ascend from
the snow, so as to make it easier to find the anchors after a storm. To the extreme
left of the wall, there are a few free hanging pillars that have as yet to be
ascended.
Descent: Rappel the route.

There are further reports of ice slightly over the boarder in Oregon along the Canyon
Walls of the South Fork of the Walla Walla River.
Uncommon Ascents and Formations
There have been a few interesting events in the ice climbing history of
Washington State. Most of these include ice appearing in strange areas during extreme
cold snaps. Following are a few of these stories and ice formations. Perhaps one day
some of these will reappear.
33


It has been reported that Dallas Kloke and friends did a winter ice ascent up the flanks
of Mt. Erie near Anacortes. It’s hard to believe, but they did not dry tool the entire
way. There was indeed a thin layer of ice on most of the route they ascended.
In the frigid winter of 1996 there were reports of ice on the Mosquito Lake Road
outside of Bellingham. Sources indicate that the ice was indeed long enough to be
climbed, but would not divulge its location.
An Index to Climbs:
Add New Climbs to List.
Aerobic Sex – WI 4-5
Alpental Falls 1-4 – WI 2-3
Anaerobic Sex – WI 5
Arctic Grail – WI 4
Bavarian Dark – WI 5
Beginner’s Dome – WI 2
Biram Left – WI 5
Blast Rock Wall – WI 4
Bridal Veil Falls – WI 3+
Butch Cassidy – WI 5
Chair Lift Falls – WI 4
Champagne – WI 5
Clockwork Orange – WI 5
Death Picnic – WI 6
Delusions of Grand Do-er – WI 6
Drury Falls – WI 5
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues – WI 5
Falling Falls – WI 5
February Falls – WI 5
First Millenium Wall – WI 2-3+
Franklin Falls
Frenchman Falls – WI 4
Fugs Falls – WI 3+
Guiness – WI 4-5
H202 – WI 5
Henry’s – WI 2
Horsetail Falls – WI 3-3+
Hubba Bubba – WI 2+
Ice Dreams – WI 4+
Keekwulee Falls
Kickapoo Joy Juice – WI 4-5
Mayme & Rose – WI 4-5
34
Miller Time – WI 5
New York Gully
Nordic Wall – WI 3-5
North Face of Denny Mountain – WI 2-3
Pan Dome Falls – WI 3+
Phase Transition – WI 4
Pinnacle Peak – WI 2
Pour Les Enfants Avec Autos – WI 5
Red Rain – WI 4
Scotch on the Rocks – WI 5
Second Millenium Wall – WI 4-5
Skookumchuck – WI 5
Snowshoe Falls
Sody Pop – WI 4
Spindrift Coulour 5.9 WI 5
Strobach Mountain
Tea ‘n’ The Sahara – WI 5
The Absent Minded Professor – WI 3-4
The Blue Cocoon – WI 5
The Cable – WI 5
The Devils Punch Bowl (left side) – WI 2
The Devils Punch Bowl (right side) – WI 3
The Emerald – WI 4+
The Pass Wall – WI 3-4+
The Shipman Route – WI 3-4
The Sundance Kid – WI 5
Third Millenium Wall – WI 3-4
Tracks of My Fears – WI 5
Trotsky’s Folly – WI 3
Umptanum Falls
White’s Delight – WI 4
Yerba Buena – WI 3
Zenith – WI 5
Chair Peak, North Face
Abiel Peak, North Coulour
1st Ice on the Right – WI 4
Sad Ce’Bu – WI 3
Weeping Wall -- WI 2-6
Goats Beard – WI 6+
Gate Creek – WI 3
35
Special Thanks To the Following:
To make this book possible I required quite a bit of help. Thanks to the following
people and orginizations:
David Zulinke, Krista Eytchison, Kevin Pogue, Dunham Gooding and the staff at
the American Alpine Institute, Erik Snyder, Dan Smith, Paul Butler, the staff of Mazama
Mountain Guides, Mike Layton
Bibliography
1) Nelson, Jim and Potterfield, Peter. Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Seattle: The
Mountaineers, 1993
2) Nelson, Jim and Potterfield, Peter. Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume II.
Seattle: The Mountaineers, 2000
3) Serl, Don and Kay, Bruce. The Climbers Guide to West Coast Ice. Canada: 1993
4) Paul, Bart. “The Spindrift Couloir: Scrappin’ it up after classes in the Washington
Cascades.” The American Alpine Journal 71 Vol. 39. (1997) 60-65
5) Smoot, Jeff. Rock Climbing Washington. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc. 1999
6) Becky, Fred. Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes – 1: Columbia
River to Stevens Pass. Seattle: The Mountaineers. 1996
Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes – 2: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass.
Seattle: The Mountaineers. 1989
Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes – 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River.
Seattle: The Mountaineers. 1995
7) Shipman, Mark and Frese, Glen. “Washington, Columbia Basin: Served Straight Up
Off the Rocks.” Climbing Magazine No.106 February 1988: 34-35
8) Eminger, John and Kittle, John. The Washington Desert: A Climbers Guide.
Spokane: Serac International Press. 1991.
9) Ice Conditions – Rock and Ice Online. INTERNET:
http://www.rockandice.com/grassroots/ice/ic.html
10) Kloke, Dallas. Winter Climbs: One Day Ascents in the Western Cascades
Anacortes: Mountain Goat Guide Book. 1997
36
11) Larry Nevers Jr. Climbers Home. INTERNET: http://users.ewa.net/larrynjr/
12) Cascadeclimbers INTERNET: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com
Notes And To Do:
1) Obtain Permission from every author on the list before submitting to a guidebook
agency.
2) Minimum of at least two first hand accounts of ascents for publication or a very
reliable source…
3) Seattle Library sight.
4) Bellingham Alpine Journal with notes in it… Check.
5) What is Fossil Washington? Ice there? Fossil Rock?