Libraries, Archives and Information
What we used to wear:
20th century fashions
in Sheffield
Page 1 of 22
© Sheffield Libraries Archives and Local Studies Library
Front cover illustrations from left to right:
Catalogue, Graves of Sheffield, 1961
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 659.133 SSTF)
Watercolour of the latest summer fashions for 1912 by Ida Stringfellow of Sheffield
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: Picture Sheffield t01425)
Cabaret singers featured in the Sheffield City Council publication, Sheffield City on
the Move, 1970
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 914.274 SF)
Images can be copied for private or educational use without permission from us,
though we ask that the following acknowledgement is included ‘[document reference
number] from the collections of Sheffield Libraries Archives and Information’. Please
contact us if you wish to publish, exhibit or broadcast any of the information within
this Guide.
You can download a copy of this Study Guide from www.sheffield.gov.uk/archives
Page 2 of 22
Contents
Introduction
4
Timeline of key events
5
Selection of images from the Sheffield Local Studies Library
and Sheffield Archives collections:

1900s
6

1910s
7

1920s
8

1930s
9

1940s
10

1950s
11

1960s
12

1970s
13

1980s
14

1990s
15
List of selected sources
16
Sheffield Local Studies Library and Sheffield Archives facilities
21
Contact details
22
Page 3 of 22
Introduction – 20th century fashions
The design of clothes has historically been influenced by global trends, economic
prosperity, changing social attitudes, and by the types of materials they’re made
from.
At the turn of the century it was fashionable for women to wear long skirts, corsets
and yards of fabric if they could afford it. The 1920s and 1930s saw hemlines rise
and a set of couture fashion houses emerged which designed clothes that reflected
the growing desire for clothes that helped people to enjoy themselves. Rationing
during the Second World War and economic downturns had a radical effect on
fashion during the 20th century. Many fashion houses closed during the war as most
women could not afford to buy clothes that weren’t necessities and many materials
became unavailable. The 'Make do and Mend' campaign was introduced by the
government to encourage people to get as much wear as possible out of the clothes
they already had.
After the austerity of the war years, innovations in textile technology resulted in the
manufacture of new synthetic fibres (such as nylon, polyester and acrylic) which
created a consumer market for affordable, easy care clothing. Teenagers became a
force in the market as a result of music and film influences. Fashion traditions were
broken in the 1960s with the arrival of Mary Quant’s daring miniskirt. The 1970s
were characterised by flared jeans and platform boots (for both men and women)
while the later years of the decade gave rise to the anti-fashion, anarchistic punk
look. Eighties fashions reflected the economic boom and were typified by power
dressing, gaudy colours and conspicuous consumption while, in contrast, 1990s style
became minimalist, influenced by the dress-down culture of grunge. Meanwhile,
present day styles are evidence that fashion is cyclical with the rise in popularity of
real vintage and vintage-inspired clothes.
The local scene
Fashion trends quickly filter down to a local level, and the sources at Sheffield
Archives and Local Studies Library are full of pictures and references to Sheffield’s
colourful history. One of the earliest references is an inventory of jewellery belonging
to Bess of Hardwick in 1583 listing her ‘crose of dyamons [and] a ringe with a greate
rubye’ (Sheffield Archives: MD6311/6). Eighteenth century fashions are discussed
by the Wilson family ladies of Broomhead Hall (1794) (Sheffield Archives:
MD7899/5/7), while socialist campaigner Edward Carpenter set about making his
own sandals, following an enlightening trip to India, during the late 19th century
(Sheffield Archives: Carpenter/W/1-3).
Twentieth century fashions are comprehensively documented at Sheffield Local
Studies Library, with the local newspapers offering a weekly analysis of changing
fashions, the latest hairstyles and the influences of the day. History’s shocking styles
are also documented, from the ‘outrageous’ New Look of the 1940s and 1950s which
used copious of amounts of fabric (seen as unpatriotic after rationing), to the ‘harmful
craze’ for ear piercing which swept Sheffield in the 1970s!
What follows is a Source Guide to material held at Sheffield Archives and Local
Studies Library for those wishing to find out ‘what we used to wear’ in Sheffield.
Page 4 of 22
Timeline showing key dates
1829
1847
1859
1861
1868
1873
1873
Thomas Bagshawe and William Cockayne set up as drapers in
Angel Street selling silks, hosiery and ladies’ bonnets etc. They
were so successful they rebuilt their shop in 1871 and extended
again in 1876.
Cole Brothers was started by Thomas, John and Skelton Cole as a
family drapery business in Fargate. They built a new shop on the
corner of Fargate and Church Street in 1869 giving rise to the name
‘Coles Corner’.
T & J Roberts Limited was founded by Thomas Roberts whose
brother joined him in 1862. They built a new store at Moorhead in
1881.
Harris Leon Brown, a Jewish immigrant from Poland, established a
jewellers business. He had a shop at Market Place.
The Brightside and Carbrook Co-operative Society was founded in
1868 by a group of blacksmiths at William Jessops’ steelworks
selling groceries and drapery. In 1914 the Co-op bought a site on
Exchange Street – the central stores opened in 1929.
John Atkinson’s was founded selling household and furnishing
drapery as well as ‘ribbons, laces, silks, satins, millinery, bonnets,
mantles, jackets and shawls’.
John Banner founded his local drapery and ladies’ outfitters
business. He later moved his shop to Attercliffe Road in 1894 and
rebuilt on a grand scale 40 years later. Banner’s closed in 1980.
1875
John Walsh set up business as a ladies’ outfitters in High Street.
c.1880
John George Graves moved to Sheffield as an apprentice
watchmaker. He later set up one of Britain's first mail order
businesses in Sheffield, selling first watches and then a wide range
of goods, employing at its height, 3,000 people.
1896
Roberts Brothers Limited set up business with four employees.
1912
1913
Marks and Spencer’s first shop in Sheffield opened at 58-60 The
Moor. Their first outlet in Sheffield was in Norfolk Market Hall
during the 19th century. In 1929 they moved to 76 The Moor.
The Sheffield and Ecclesall Co-operative Society’s central store at
the bottom of Cemetery Road opened.
1932
C&A Modes store opened at the bottom of High Street.
1940
A number of big department stores were destroyed or badly
damaged in the Sheffield Blitz including Atkinson’s, C&A Modes,
Roberts Brothers etc.
For more information on shops and shopping in Sheffield see: Ruth Harman,
Sheffield Shops and Shopping, Tempus: 2007 (Sheffield Local Studies Library:
658.87 S)
Page 5 of 22
1900s
From top right
clockwise: Women’s
fashions, Mar 1908
(Sheffield Independent);
advert for Cole
Brothers, 1908
(Sheffield Independent);
John Walsh Ltd,
drapers and outfitters,
1904 (Picture Sheffield:
u06365); Bags for sale
at Boots, High St, 1908
(Sheffield Independent).
Page 6 of 22
1910s
From top left clockwise: Mrs Lucas at 110
Brincliffe Edge Road, 1915 (Picture Sheffield:
s09029); Watercolour of the latest summer
fashions for 1912 by Ida Stringfellow (Picture
Sheffield: t01426); Window cleaning girl in
uniform, First World War (Picture Sheffield:
s08833); Darnall boys going fishing, 1910
(Picture Sheffield: s09309)
Page 7 of 22
1920s
From top clockwise: Brightside & Carbrook Co-operative Society Ltd, Exchange Street, 1929
(Picture Sheffield: s11211); John Walsh Ltd, High Street, 1925 (Picture Sheffield: y03700);
S. Sandford, Ladies and Babies Outfitters, 208 Sheffield Moor, 1920s (Picture Sheffield: s10899);
Coat made by Painted Fabrics Ltd, Meadowhead, 1920s (Sheffield Archives: PF/4/2/7/6).
Page 8 of 22
1930s
From left clockwise: Joseph Bassett Ltd,
clothing manufacturer, Wearwell Works,
Grafton Street, 1920s/30s (Picture Sheffield:
y03428); Men’s trousers and breeches made
by Joseph Basset of Sheffield (Picture
Sheffield: y03430); School class visiting
Weston Park Museum, 1939 (Picture Sheffield:
s06836); Teachers at Intake School, c.1930s
(Picture Sheffield: s00444); Design for leather
satchel, Painted Fabrics, Meadowhead, 1935
(Sheffield Archives: PF).
Page 9 of 22
1940s
From left clockwise: Make Do and
Mend booklet issued by the Ministry
of Information, 1943 (Sheffield
Reference and Information Library:
646 24ST); Third Countess of
Wharncliffe, bomb maker during 1941
(Picture Sheffield: s02573); Workers at
Rip Bits, Sheffield during World War
Two (Picture Sheffield: a00672).
Page 10 of 22
1950s
From left top clockwise: catalogue,
Graves of Sheffield, 1959 (Sheffield
Local Studies Library: 659.133 SSTF);
advertisement for Roberts Brothers,
Moorhead and Ecclesall Road, 1955
(Sheffield Star), brochure from
Cockayne’s, Sheffield (Sheffield
Archives: SY492/B14/4); photograph
of 1952 fashions at Cockayne’s
(Sheffield Archives: SY492/B20/1).
Page 11 of 22
1960s
From left top clockwise: advertisement
for Sheffield and Ecclesall, Brightside and
Carbrook Cooperative Societies, 1965
(Sheffield Star); advertisement for
Cockayne’s, 1965 (Sheffield Star);
catalogue, Graves of Sheffield, 1961
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 659.133
SSTF); photograph of women at the new
bar, Sheffield Playhouse Theatre, 1966
(Picture Sheffield: s01482).
Page 12 of 22
1970s
From left top clockwise: Cabaret singers
featured in the Sheffield City Council
publication, Sheffield City on the Move, 1970
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 914.274 SF);
‘Sexy Rexy’ suit house, Charles Street, 1972
(Picture Sheffield: s22939); article on new ear
piercing craze in Sheffield, 1976 (Sheffield
Star); singer, Tony Christie, 1978 (Picture
Sheffield: s26311).
Page 13 of 22
1980s
From top right clockwise: In the Peace Gardens, 1986
(Picture Sheffield: s26525); advertisement for
Harringtons, Castle Market, 1981 (Sheffield Star); Flea
Market at Roxy’s, 1987 (Picture Sheffield: s01927);
Perms at Schofields, Angel Street, 1981 (Sheffield
Star); Meadowhall Shopping Centre under
construction, 1989 (Picture Sheffield: v02527).
Page 14 of 22
1990s
From top left clockwise: Karachi Stores,
Attercliffe Road, established in 1997 – this
image taken 2006 (Picture Sheffield:
c02295); ‘it takes a brave person who takes
the plunge on a new hair colour…’,
advertisement for Headlines at Leopold
Street, 1993 (Sheffield Star); Sheffield
Polytechnic, BA (Hons) Historical Studies,
Class of 1992, Psalter Lane Campus (Picture
Sheffield: a00739).
Page 15 of 22
General books on the history of fashion (selected titles)
Baudot, Francois, A century of fashion (Thames & Hudson, 1999)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library: 391.00904)
Cumming, Valerie, The dictionary of fashion history (Berg, 2010)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library and Parson Cross Library: 391.009 ART)
Cumming, Valerie, Understanding fashion history (Batsford, 2004)
(Broomhill Library and Firth Park Library: 391.009)
Ewing, Elizabeth, History of 20th century fashion (Batsford, 2005)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 391.00904)
Gorman, Paul, The Look: adventures in pop and rock fashion
(Sanctuary Publishing, 2001)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 391.009045 Q)
Horwood, Catherine, Worst fashions: what we shouldn't have worn...but did
(Sutton, 2005)
(Chapeltown Library and Manor Library: 391.00941)
Johnston, Lucy, Nineteenth-century fashion in detail (V&A Publications, 2005)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library and various community libraries: 391.00903 Q)
Lansdell, Avril, Fashion a la carte, 1860-1900: a study of fashion through cartes-devisite (Shire Publications, 1985)
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 391.0942 SST)
Peacock, John, Men's fashion: the complete sourcebook with over 1000 colour
illustrations (Thames & Hudson, 1996)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library: 391.09 Q)
John Peacock, Fashion accessories: the complete 20th century sourcebook
(Thames & Hudson, 2000)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library and Gleadless Library: 391.4 Q)
Peacock, John, Fashion since 1900: the complete sourcebook
(Thames & Hudson, 2007)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library and various community libraries: 391.009 Q)
Racinet, Albert, The complete costume history: from ancient times to the 19th century
(Taschen, 2006)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library: 391.009 F)
Reed, Paula, Fifty fashion looks that changed the 1950s (Conran Octopus, 2012)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 746.92)
Reed, Paula, Fifty fashion looks that changed the 1960s (Conran Octopus, 2012)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 746.92)
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Reed, Paula, Fifty fashion looks that changed the 1970s (Conran Octopus, 2012)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 746.92)
Rothstein, Natalie, 400 years of fashion (V&A, 1999)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library: 391.0094 Q)
Storey, Nicholas, History of men's fashion: what the well-dressed man is wearing
(Remember When, 2008)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library: 391.1094)
Styles, John, The dress of the people: everyday fashion in eighteenth century
England (Yale, 2007)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 391.0094)
Turner, Tracey, The 70s: the decade that style forgot (Prion, 2006)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 391.009)
Walford, Jonathan, Forties fashion: from siren suits to the new look
(Thames & Hudson, 2011)
(Sheffield Reference and Information Library and various community libraries:
391.209 ART)
Wilkinson, Philip, Turn back time - the high street: 100 years of British life through the
shop window (Quercus, 2010)
(Sheffield Central Lending Library: 381.1094 NF)
In addition to the general texts listed above, Sheffield Libraries also stock books on
the history of individual fashion houses and retailers (such as Dior, Chanel and
Marks and Spencer), fashion design, collecting vintage fashion, fashion trends (e.g.
art deco, couture, hip hop), specific fashion items (bags, sneakers, slippers,
underwear etc.), fashion icons, etc. For specific titles search Sheffield Libraries
catalogue: http://library.sheffield.gov.uk/uhtbin/webcat
Fashion, clothing manufacture and retail in Sheffield (selected sources)
Anderson, Neil, The shopaholics guide to 1970s Sheffield, ACM Retro: 2009
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 381.1094 SQ and at various community libraries
381.1094) - see also the Dirty stop out's guides to Sheffield by Neil Anderson which
focus on entertainment in the city, but also document changing fashions.
British Broadcasting Corporation, The Meadowhall experience [Video], BBC: 1990
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: VID 22)
Edward Carpenter collection - includes sandals and templates, 19th century
(Sheffield Archives: Carpenter)
Castle Hill Market – official opening by the Minister of Health (Arthur Greenwood), Fri
9 May 1930 – invitations, admittance cards and programme
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: Local Pamphlets, vol.139, no.4 042 S; MP 2593 M)
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Cockayne, T. B. and W., The House of Cockayne founded in the year 1929, 1929
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 658.87 S)
Charles E. Goad Limited, Goad Shopping Centre Report (Sheffield), 1985 [shops
listed in street order and alphabetically with statistics and photographs etc.]
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 658.87 S)
Samuel Fox and Company Limited, Stocksbridge – company records, 1847-1971
[Profits from Samuel Fox’s famous umbrella frames enabled the company to
concentrate on other products such as crinoline wire. Crinoline dresses were the
height of fashion in the 19th century and their enormous wide skirts depended on a
strong, light frame. Company records may make reference to this area of
manufacture].
(Sheffield Archives: FOX)
Abraham Simon Graham (birth name Abraham Simon Guttenberg), Waterproof
Garment Dealer, Sheffield – company records, c.1909 - 1980s
(Sheffield Archives: MD7439; X591)
J. G. Graves Limited, Mail order catalogues: miscellaneous collection of all
catalogues, 1900 - 1965
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 659.133 SSTF)
Harman, Ruth, Sheffield Shops and Shopping, Tempus: 2007
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 658.87 S)
Painted Fabrics Limited – company records including photographs, watercolours and
stencils, 1915 – 1959 [Painted Fabrics Limited was a luxury textiles company set up
in Sheffield during the First World War to offer employment to wounded exservicemen. The men acquired a wide range of new skills very different from their
pre-war occupations including hand stencilling using specially adapted brushes and
tools, screen printing, block printing, spray painting and garment manufacture].
(Sheffield Archives: PF)
Schofields (Yorkshire) Ltd., Department Store, Angel Street, Sheffield (formerly T. B.
and W. Cockayne) – company records including photographs, advertisements, staff
records, accounts etc., c.1872 - 1977
(Sheffield Archives: SY492)
The Star, The Star Shoparound: guide to the best in shopping 1974, 1974
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: MP 669 L)
Turley, J. P., Sheffield’s forgotten shops, 1997
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 658.87 S)
John Walsh Limited, The fiftieth milestone, 1875 - 1925: a record of the half a
century's successful enterprise published to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the
founding of Yorkshire's greatest store, John Walsh Limited: [1925]
(Sheffield Local Studies Library: 658.6 SQ)
Page 18 of 22
Wigfalls Public Limited Company, Domestic Appliance and Furniture Fashion
Retailers, Rutland Road, Sheffield, 1909 – 1987 – company records [Wigfalls was
established in 1896 by Henry Wigfall as a cycle shop; in 1938 clothing and footwear
were added to their range, all available on weekly credit terms].
(Sheffield Archives: MD7291)
Wilson Family of Broomhead, Sheffield – correspondence regarding latest fashions
etc., 18th century
(Sheffield Archives: MD7899)
World War Two clothing ration card, 1942
(Sheffield Archives: X30/4)
Newspapers
Local newspapers are a useful barometer of changing fashions over the decades.
Weekly fashion columns documented the latest trends, while the advertising sections
carried a plethora of advertisements for local fashion houses and department stores.
Well-known Sheffield names such as Cole Brothers, Walsh’s and Roberts Brothers
advertised regularly in the Sheffield Independent, the Telegraph and the Sheffield
Star.
The two main Sheffield newspapers are the Sheffield Morning Telegraph (later
Sheffield Telegraph) and The Star, and these are available on microfilm at Sheffield
Local Studies Library.
The Sheffield Independent, 1819 - 1900; Sheffield Daily Telegraph 1855 - 1903 and
Sheffield Evening Telegraph, 1887 - 1897 are available online at
www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/.
Trade directories
Local trade directories give a history of the local area, the names of the main
residential occupants and business information (1774 – 1974). They were the
forerunner of telephone directories and Yellow Pages. They are particularly useful in
identifying the names of local businesses. For example, White’s Directory of 1902
reveals that there were in excess of 1,000 companies and individuals in Sheffield
trading in the clothing and fashion industry including: outfitters, clothiers, tailors, silk
mercers, drapers, clog makers, clothes brokers and dealers, boot and shoe
manufacturers, ladies underclothing dealers, furriers, hosiery knitters, glovers,
milliners, shirt makers, stay and corset makers and waterproof clothing
manufacturers.
A full list of trade directories at Archives and Local Studies is available:
www.sheffield.gov.uk/libraries/archives-and-local-studies/collections/tradedirectories.html. Some directories are available to view online:
www.historicaldirectories.org.
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Maps
There are large-scale maps of the Sheffield area
from 1853 to the present day. Comprehensive
coverage of Sheffield and partial coverage of the
surrounding areas is available at Sheffield Local
Studies Library. Sheffield Archives has incomplete
historic coverage of most of South Yorkshire.
More details are available here:
www.sheffield.gov.uk/libraries/archives-and-localstudies/collections/ordnance-survey-maps.html
See also, Goad Fire Insurance Plans of Sheffield
(pictured right). These plans of central Sheffield
were produced by Charles E. Goad, civil engineer,
53 New Broad Street, London. The occupiers and
usage of commercial properties are indicated.
Goad Fire Insurance Plans of Sheffield, 1896 – 1905 (Sheffield Archives: SY674);
1896 (revised to 1959) (Sheffield Local Studies Library: 912.4274 SSTF).
Photographs
The main series of photographs and illustrations (60,000+) is available at Sheffield
Local Studies Library in the Central Library. Over 55,000 of these are available online
at Picture Sheffield. In addition Sheffield Archives has photographs and illustrations
within its collections.
(Sheffield Local Studies Library and Sheffield Archives)
Local information in other libraries and archives
Yorkshire Fashion Archive
Based in the School of Design at the University of Leeds, the Yorkshire Fashion
Archive is a new, publicly accessible collection of haute couture, fashion garments
and everyday clothing. It provides a unique historical and cultural record of Yorkshire
life and documents clothing produced, purchased and worn by Yorkshire folk
throughout the 20th century. The collection reflects changing social attitudes and
multi-cultural influences, economic prosperity, global trends and the regional
technical excellence in textiles and clothing over a 100 year period.
www.yorkshirefashionarchive.org/
Page 20 of 22
Sheffield Archives and Local Studies services collect and preserve original
records and printed material relating to Sheffield and the surrounding area.
The information dates from the 12th century to the present and relates to
Sheffield, South Yorkshire and north Derbyshire.
Included are extensive collections of books ● pamphlets ● photographs ●
church registers ● newspapers ● census records ● minutes ● diaries ●
films ● maps ● deeds ● records from schools ● hospitals ● businesses and
charities ● family estates ● personal papers etc.
Our facilities include:
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● a library of reference books ● photocopying and photography services ●
free Internet access ● microform machines and printers ● catalogues and
indexes ● a range of useful publications for sale ● CD-Rom library ● online image library.
Adding to our collections
Sheffield Libraries and Archives seeks to preserve information about
events in our city’s history. If you have photographs or personal papers
that may be worth preserving please consider safeguarding them for
current and future generations by placing them in the care of Sheffield
Libraries and Archives. It is only through the generosity of individuals and
organisations that we are able to have a complete record of important
events in the history of Sheffield and the nation. We are interested in
photographs, flyers and posters, minutes of meetings etc. For advice on
record keeping and the facilities we offer please contact us:
archives@sheffield.gov.uk or 0114 203 9395).
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Sheffield Local Studies Library
Sheffield Archives
1st floor
Central Library
Surrey Street
Sheffield
S1 1XZ
52 Shoreham Street
Sheffield
S1 4SP
Tel: 0114 273 4753
Fax: 0114 273 5009
Tel: 0114 203 9395
Fax: 0114 203 9398
localstudies.library@sheffield.gov.uk
archives@sheffield.gov.uk
www.sheffield.gov.uk/archives
www.sheffield.gov.uk/archives
(selected) Sheffield Local Studies Library
catalogue
http: //library.sheffield.gov.uk/uhtbin/webcat
(selected) Archives catalogues:
www.calmview.eu/SheffieldArchives/CalmView
and
www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/a2a
For 55,000 images of Sheffield: www.picturesheffield.com
www.sheffield.gov.uk/archives
www.twitter.com/shefflibraries
www.flickr.com/photos/shefflibraries/collections
/72157629374979280/
www.youtube.com/user/SheffieldArchives1
www.facebook.com/shefflibraries
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